Your timing for this test is perfect. I'm putting together a custom medicine case where some stitching will be more than difficult to manage. The overall weight will be light enough, but I don't want to go back and repair it later.
Very interesting content. I have no reason for watching a video on leather glue other than Corbin is one of my best friends, but this was genuinely interesting content! Great job to Corbin and the Sailrite content team! I was hooked the whole time (like the leather. Ha.)!
I would be curious how Dap Weldwood contact adhesive performs in this test. That adhesive will hold Landau top material (a cloth like vinyl) to a the top of a classic car (metal). Heat and weather do not affect the hold.
Great experiment. I will also add that using a top quality adhesive (no matter what you go with) may have a considerable effect if you are like me and are going to be burnishing your edges. When you are putting together a knife sheath for example using 8 oz. leather with an 8 oz. welt you really need to make sure those edges are bonded well even though you will be stitching. Once everything has had time to dry and cure you will be sanding through a few different grits and those bonds need to be strong, otherwise gaps can form in between the layers of leather and will be very noticeable, especially if you are going for glass type edges. So every adhesive has its place depending on the application, but you should never just use adhesive over stitching. Just my 2 cents. Great vid though on showing the different strengths of a few different adhesives!
I agree, I actually tested how these different adhesives affected burnishing, and the s-18 contact cement produced the best looking results- an almost invisible seam. White glue was next best, and basting tape looked the worst as i expected. It shouldn't be used on an edge that will be burnished. Thanks for your comment!
I was just pondering this subject myself. Is the purpose of glue really to add strength to the seam or just to hold the surfaces together before stitching? When hand stitching, it's not really as issue because you're pricking the leather before you stitch, but a machine needle is doing both at the same time. I've been using Barge which is kinda gummy. I've been questioning more and more how glues interact with my machine needle. Specifically, I'm wondering which glues won't gum up my needle or cause extra friction on the needle making my machine work harder (tension adjustments etc) and heat which could melt or break the thread, especially while working with chrome tan and #207 three cord is using my machine at it's very upper limit.
Fiebing's leather cement (white glue) is a bit easier on your machine than contact cements like S-18 or Barge. While it's hard to quantify the difference, I can share my experience. If you don't need a bond as strong as that provided by contact cement, it might be worth trying a different type of glue.
In my experience, s-18 and Fiebings leathercraft cement also works for gluing leather to cotton canvas. Waxed canvas is notoriously difficult to glue though, so I havent found a great solution for that. Are you needing to glue regular canvas (cotton) or marine canvas (acrylic)?
S-18 contact cement works best. Another popular brand of contact cement is Barge. The great thing about contact cement is that it sticks and holds the items in place without the need for clips. The downsides to that is that you have to wait a few minutes for the glue to set before you join the two sides, and it can be difficult to re-adjust if the placement wasnt correct.
I used to always use contact cements like barge, but i've found myself using water based/white glue more recently. I think it's mostly because of the contact cement smell
I just chose my favorites from each glue category, and I prefer s-18 over barge when it comes to contact cement. Maybe some day we will film a longer version and compare different brands more closely.
Cool! I've never seen glue strength broken down in this manner. I wish I would have had this to reference years ago. Good job kid! Thank you.
I like these kinds of tests
Your timing for this test is perfect. I'm putting together a custom medicine case where some stitching will be more than difficult to manage. The overall weight will be light enough, but I don't want to go back and repair it later.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
Very interesting content. I have no reason for watching a video on leather glue other than Corbin is one of my best friends, but this was genuinely interesting content! Great job to Corbin and the Sailrite content team! I was hooked the whole time (like the leather. Ha.)!
I would be curious how Dap Weldwood contact adhesive performs in this test. That adhesive will hold Landau top material (a cloth like vinyl) to a the top of a classic car (metal). Heat and weather do not affect the hold.
good to know! I've never had to bond anything to metal yet, but I would definitely be willing to give it a try.
@@SailriteWorkbench I only used that reference because if it adheres to metal, then it should be able to adhere leather to leather. 🙂
I’ve used Weldwood on my leatherwork for years and it holds up well. Would have liked to seen it in this test.
Great experiment. I will also add that using a top quality adhesive (no matter what you go with) may have a considerable effect if you are like me and are going to be burnishing your edges. When you are putting together a knife sheath for example using 8 oz. leather with an 8 oz. welt you really need to make sure those edges are bonded well even though you will be stitching. Once everything has had time to dry and cure you will be sanding through a few different grits and those bonds need to be strong, otherwise gaps can form in between the layers of leather and will be very noticeable, especially if you are going for glass type edges. So every adhesive has its place depending on the application, but you should never just use adhesive over stitching. Just my 2 cents. Great vid though on showing the different strengths of a few different adhesives!
I agree, I actually tested how these different adhesives affected burnishing, and the s-18 contact cement produced the best looking results- an almost invisible seam. White glue was next best, and basting tape looked the worst as i expected. It shouldn't be used on an edge that will be burnished. Thanks for your comment!
Very interesting. Learn something new every day.
Glad to hear it!
Very interesting.
I was just pondering this subject myself. Is the purpose of glue really to add strength to the seam or just to hold the surfaces together before stitching? When hand stitching, it's not really as issue because you're pricking the leather before you stitch, but a machine needle is doing both at the same time. I've been using Barge which is kinda gummy. I've been questioning more and more how glues interact with my machine needle. Specifically, I'm wondering which glues won't gum up my needle or cause extra friction on the needle making my machine work harder (tension adjustments etc) and heat which could melt or break the thread, especially while working with chrome tan and #207 three cord is using my machine at it's very upper limit.
Fiebing's leather cement (white glue) is a bit easier on your machine than contact cements like S-18 or Barge. While it's hard to quantify the difference, I can share my experience. If you don't need a bond as strong as that provided by contact cement, it might be worth trying a different type of glue.
What about the gluing with leather to canvas??? Great video, Thanks
In my experience, s-18 and Fiebings leathercraft cement also works for gluing leather to cotton canvas. Waxed canvas is notoriously difficult to glue though, so I havent found a great solution for that.
Are you needing to glue regular canvas (cotton) or marine canvas (acrylic)?
@@SailriteWorkbench Canvas to leather in the tote bag kit. I used the white glue, but it had to clip and it took a long time.
S-18 contact cement works best. Another popular brand of contact cement is Barge. The great thing about contact cement is that it sticks and holds the items in place without the need for clips. The downsides to that is that you have to wait a few minutes for the glue to set before you join the two sides, and it can be difficult to re-adjust if the placement wasnt correct.
Thank you I have often wondered about this. I have gone through gallons of barge cement
I used to always use contact cements like barge, but i've found myself using water based/white glue more recently. I think it's mostly because of the contact cement smell
Why was barge not in the line up?
I just chose my favorites from each glue category, and I prefer s-18 over barge when it comes to contact cement. Maybe some day we will film a longer version and compare different brands more closely.