Looking for DIY shoe repair information and inspiration? Make sure you check out this playlist: 👉 DIY Shoe Repair Playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLdftcGSJ5ua2rKkxR_e82N2aJjo0ItXSf.html
This video is way too good. Have watched what feels like every video on shoe rapair ever and you just surpassed them all. Love the channel and the vibe. Keep doing what you're doing. It's extremely helpful and insightful.
Wow. Im genuinely quite dumbfounded here. You covered seemingly everything i could want to know about my project that quite literally all the other 'bigger' youtubers didnt even know about. I was struggling to find a good video to reference a good plan from but now im not. Wish me luck yall!
Would very much like a step by step video on some project you're working on. Would most likely become the gold standard for shoe repair tutorials. If possible comment every step and compare with other possible problems and situations one could encounter in their repair.
Thank you for doing this video. I have three pairs of Birkenstocks, which are very expensive to replace, and I'm in the process of rebuilding them. I've never done this before and needed your information here. Thanks again!
I'm not sure you said much about how long or how much pressure to apply, but you were very clear that it should be "enough". Some more detail on that would be valuable.
Windscreen adhesive, use a good quality type like 3M 08609 Window Weld or Sikaflex 268 which is used on railway windows. I've used them on motorcycle boots.
I have used Weldwood contact cement on work boot soles with great success over the years. Right now I am still using a pair of Schmidt brand work boots from Tractor Supply bought in year 2011 and now they are still wearable in 2024. I need some fresh glue to do it one more time. I have used small "C" clamps to hold it together overnight or even for a few days. These repairs normally last for at least a few years before having to be done again. There you go. Weldwood contact cement and C clamps.
Anything glue that requires time to cure should be used with clamps/ rubber bands etc. I'm not a fan of super glue in case you are wondering. Watch my other video about shoe glue, and you'll see why. Cheers
I heard that to apply 2nd layer of adhesive, I need to reactive it by applying heat to it, and the heat from hair dryer might be sufficient enough. But that also lead to another problem, I think, if we live and walking under scorching sun or hot and humid weather like asia, desert,... where it can get to more than 40 degree celsius or even 50 to 60 degree celsius, it might cause the glue on the shoes to reactivate and un-bonding the outsole of the shoes.
Hi there, yes I have seen cobblers use heat guns to reactivate glues, though it makes me wonder the reason they do so. I would always follow the glue instructions from its manufacturer.
@@irefusetopay So I am working on some shoes now, I just put on one good coat on each surface. So do both surfaces need to completely dry before adding another coat to both surfaces?
@@irefusetopay yes. But though I dont know the temperature threshold of these glues. And the part that scare me the most is one day I walk outdoor, couples km later my shoes completely falling apart. I've had bad shoes, delaminated sole, disintegrated pu sole,... I always wanted to make my own boots/ shoes with decent material, as a hobby.
I much appreciate your tutorial on shoe repair. Would acetone be better than mineral spiirits for thinning thickened contact cement? Thank you and all the best.
Question. At 4.02 you say add a second coat before first coat is dry. Then at 6.56 you say the glue has to dry before the second coat. Please could you advise when to do which method?
I noticed that too. No reference is found on this, but if the room tempreture is very low, it makes sense for the glue to reach its designed optimal tempreture before contacting.
Do you must use heat to activate the polyethylene glue like Barge Superstik and can I just glue both sides and wait for 5 minutes for the solvent to evaporate a bit then stick them together directly like a rubber based contact adhesive like Barge Infinite Cement?
I would follow the manufacturers instructions. I've tried to heat the glue, it speeds up the solvent evaporation, not sure if it make the glue stick better though. Cheers
@@irefusetopay i see, yeah I think for the same type of polyurethane glue, Barge have the most detailed information I found so far, they mention heat it if it's left for dry for too long, base on logic, melt plastic do make it more sticky but not sure if it will be more sticky, but why do many UA-camrs use heatgun to activate the glue and not just stick both object after left them to dry for like 5 minutes? Do they know something or just follow along until it becomes a trend because they don't explain why themselves?
Good question. What 'activate' actually means is a bit vague to me. If I wish to go that extra mile, I would double the effort in surface preparation. Cheers
@@irefusetopay i see, yeah, I spend weeks if not months on this and read some chemistry articles too and still haven't found clear answer, I just somewhat clear about polyurethane glue is better than the typical rubber based contact adhesive, the polyurethane glue should apply the same as rubber based contact adhesive as it's how it instructed on their labels and contact adhesive is just the method of apply and not much a type of glue. Another thing maybe you can answer, do you think roughen the surface that need to apply the glue is neccessary? I don't see people do it, you don't too right? As I know if you truly want them to hold together you going to need to stitch them, I don't want to, roughen the surface will help a lot of just slightly, because rough it means you are destroying the shoes and if the glue or your method end up didn't stick them together well, you still need to redo it a need to remove the old glue and glue go into the rough surface might make you harder to clean which is not worth it isn't it?
China folks here :) There are many types of shoe cement as you know, the clear ones are probably PU glue. 鞋胶is the word but not sure if it's gotta help much.
@@irefusetopay I know 鞋胶, I got 2 water clear ones, different brands, probably the same. Is the honey color one different? Still learning how to use them, first try was too fast, so result not good.
Hey man, my name is Johnny and I'm a freelance logo designer, currently I'm looking for more works, do you love to have a logo redesign for your channel's branding to have a memorable graphic based monogram logo to help your audience recognise and follow your channel easier? I would love to design a DIY themed logo inspired by your direction for you! Let me know if you interested to make it happen! :-)
@@irefusetopay yeah man, right now your logo only has letter when it's in the small channel thumbnail form, your channel is such dedicated to saving money and has potential, it's a waste not to have a clearer picture with some graphic of hint of what's your channel about! I would love to have the honour to be your designer, let me know when you are ready for more! :-)
Looking for DIY shoe repair information and inspiration? Make sure you check out this playlist:
👉 DIY Shoe Repair Playlist
ua-cam.com/play/PLdftcGSJ5ua2rKkxR_e82N2aJjo0ItXSf.html
Very well spoken.
This is GOLD if you want to learn some important things before you tackle a shoe glue repair. Thank you!
This video is way too good. Have watched what feels like every video on shoe rapair ever and you just surpassed them all. Love the channel and the vibe. Keep doing what you're doing. It's extremely helpful and insightful.
Wow. Im genuinely quite dumbfounded here. You covered seemingly everything i could want to know about my project that quite literally all the other 'bigger' youtubers didnt even know about. I was struggling to find a good video to reference a good plan from but now im not.
Wish me luck yall!
Cheers mate, im sure you'll smash it.
This video should have WAY more likes. There's a lot of wisdom in this video.
Exceptionally well done Sir! I look forward to your next video, thank you.
Would very much like a step by step video on some project you're working on.
Would most likely become the gold standard for shoe repair tutorials.
If possible comment every step and compare with other possible problems and situations one could encounter in their repair.
Thank you for doing this video. I have three pairs of Birkenstocks, which are very expensive to replace, and I'm in the process of rebuilding them. I've never done this before and needed your information here. Thanks again!
Good luck, don't be afraid to repair again if the 1st attempt doesn't last long.
This is indeed gold! Great video!
I'm not sure you said much about how long or how much pressure to apply, but you were very clear that it should be "enough". Some more detail on that would be valuable.
my problem is, how do I get the top off a tin of OrthaBond? Does anyone know?
Windscreen adhesive, use a good quality type like 3M 08609 Window Weld or Sikaflex 268 which is used on railway windows. I've used them on motorcycle boots.
Nice tip. Can I buy them in small amounts? Do they come in a sausage which may dry up after opening? Thank you sir.
Thank you for those helpful tips.
Very good vid. Thankyou
I have used Weldwood contact cement on work boot soles with great success over the years. Right now I am still using a pair of Schmidt brand work boots from Tractor Supply bought in
year 2011 and now they are still wearable in 2024. I need some fresh glue to do it one more time. I have used small "C" clamps to hold it together overnight or even for a few days.
These repairs normally last for at least a few years before having to be done again. There you go. Weldwood contact cement and C clamps.
Great to hear success stories. Thanks.
Bendiciones para todos
This is a life saver tips ❤
👌👌👌 video....
If you wait for it to be touch dry before pressing the surfaces together doesnt it prevent then glue from both surfaces to "weld" together as a whole?
No it doesnt. To me this is the biggest difference between contact cement and other types of glue. Good luck.
Great video. I'm an instant fan, and I support the culture you're promoting!
Cheers
After finally joining the shoe to the sole, how long should you wait before actually wearing? Thanks.
24 hours to be on the safe side. Cheers.
I’ve seen people using rubber cement with super glue to instantly bond the layers. Does this count for the needed clamping pressure?
Anything glue that requires time to cure should be used with clamps/ rubber bands etc. I'm not a fan of super glue in case you are wondering. Watch my other video about shoe glue, and you'll see why. Cheers
I heard that to apply 2nd layer of adhesive, I need to reactive it by applying heat to it, and the heat from hair dryer might be sufficient enough. But that also lead to another problem, I think, if we live and walking under scorching sun or hot and humid weather like asia, desert,... where it can get to more than 40 degree celsius or even 50 to 60 degree celsius, it might cause the glue on the shoes to reactivate and un-bonding the outsole of the shoes.
Hi there, yes I have seen cobblers use heat guns to reactivate glues, though it makes me wonder the reason they do so. I would always follow the glue instructions from its manufacturer.
@@irefusetopay So I am working on some shoes now, I just put on one good coat on each surface. So do both surfaces need to completely dry before adding another coat to both surfaces?
@@irefusetopay yes. But though I dont know the temperature threshold of these glues. And the part that scare me the most is one day I walk outdoor, couples km later my shoes completely falling apart. I've had bad shoes, delaminated sole, disintegrated pu sole,... I always wanted to make my own boots/ shoes with decent material, as a hobby.
I much appreciate your tutorial on shoe repair. Would acetone be better than mineral spiirits for thinning thickened contact cement? Thank you and all the best.
I have not tried acetone as a glue thinner, but stay tuned, Probably someone here will be able to share their experiences.
@@irefusetopay Thanks for your reply
Question. At 4.02 you say add a second coat before first coat is dry. Then at 6.56 you say the glue has to dry before the second coat. Please could you advise when to do which method?
Well observed there. The second coat is applied when 1st coat just dries to the touch. Don't wait until 1st coat completely dries out before applying.
Thanks for the useful tips and advice. Would evo stik 'impact' contact adhesive for sole/heel repair be suitable?
Going to try that myself.
I don't know that brand sorry.
thank you brother 🙏 subbed
Your accent and cadence is so beautiful
Can I use another container to store the shoe? Or pour some into a applicator bottle before use?
Absolutely, if the application bottle seals well, and you accept it's a little hard to clean afterwards.cheers.
@@irefusetopay tin is probably best right, considering original packaging or glass? How do you store it? What have you used?
I just buy the smallest cans of glue and only open them when needed. Cheer
ive seen many shoe repair videos using heat gun after drying the applied contact cement. is this really necessary?
I noticed that too. No reference is found on this, but if the room tempreture is very low, it makes sense for the glue to reach its designed optimal tempreture before contacting.
LOL. "Barb wire around a stick." Man......that would do the trick for more than just roughing up a shoe. Great video though! Thank you!
If you can make it 10x bigger I'm sure it'll be a brutal weapon! Cheers
Closed captions did you dirty around the 1:00 mark
😂😂😂 you got me there, well spotted
Can’t find Barge cement in the UK. Any good alternatives please?
Experiment with what you can find in hardware stores, its part of the fun.
Welwood is the competitor to Barge.
@@matrox *Weldwood
Do you must use heat to activate the polyethylene glue like Barge Superstik and can I just glue both sides and wait for 5 minutes for the solvent to evaporate a bit then stick them together directly like a rubber based contact adhesive like Barge Infinite Cement?
I would follow the manufacturers instructions. I've tried to heat the glue, it speeds up the solvent evaporation, not sure if it make the glue stick better though. Cheers
@@irefusetopay i see, yeah I think for the same type of polyurethane glue, Barge have the most detailed information I found so far, they mention heat it if it's left for dry for too long, base on logic, melt plastic do make it more sticky but not sure if it will be more sticky, but why do many UA-camrs use heatgun to activate the glue and not just stick both object after left them to dry for like 5 minutes? Do they know something or just follow along until it becomes a trend because they don't explain why themselves?
Good question. What 'activate' actually means is a bit vague to me. If I wish to go that extra mile, I would double the effort in surface preparation. Cheers
@@irefusetopay i see, yeah, I spend weeks if not months on this and read some chemistry articles too and still haven't found clear answer, I just somewhat clear about polyurethane glue is better than the typical rubber based contact adhesive, the polyurethane glue should apply the same as rubber based contact adhesive as it's how it instructed on their labels and contact adhesive is just the method of apply and not much a type of glue.
Another thing maybe you can answer, do you think roughen the surface that need to apply the glue is neccessary? I don't see people do it, you don't too right? As I know if you truly want them to hold together you going to need to stitch them, I don't want to, roughen the surface will help a lot of just slightly, because rough it means you are destroying the shoes and if the glue or your method end up didn't stick them together well, you still need to redo it a need to remove the old glue and glue go into the rough surface might make you harder to clean which is not worth it isn't it?
Watch my video about heel protector and you'll see my view on surface prep , very important
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
For the China folks, what is shoe cement in Chinese? I bought 2 different brands, both are water clear and according to the listing shoe glue.
China folks here :) There are many types of shoe cement as you know, the clear ones are probably PU glue. 鞋胶is the word but not sure if it's gotta help much.
@@irefusetopay I know 鞋胶, I got 2 water clear ones, different brands, probably the same. Is the honey color one different?
Still learning how to use them, first try was too fast, so result not good.
Honey coloured one coming in a smallish jar is likely contact cement.
@@irefusetopay is that better than the water clear PU type?
In my opinion, yes... but if you watched the video, you already know this.
Hey man, my name is Johnny and I'm a freelance logo designer, currently I'm looking for more works, do you love to have a logo redesign for your channel's branding to have a memorable graphic based monogram logo to help your audience recognise and follow your channel easier? I would love to design a DIY themed logo inspired by your direction for you! Let me know if you interested to make it happen! :-)
Thanks for your offer, will let you know when I need one done. Cheers
@@irefusetopay yeah man, right now your logo only has letter when it's in the small channel thumbnail form, your channel is such dedicated to saving money and has potential, it's a waste not to have a clearer picture with some graphic of hint of what's your channel about! I would love to have the honour to be your designer, let me know when you are ready for more! :-)
👍🏻
I AM LIKE #578 VIEWER 13,455 COMMENT #60
Wow you are good with numbers!
Does this presentation come with a final exam?...lol....
🤣🤣🤣