Nikon F3 35mm film camera - Run-through with buyers' checklist
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- Fantastic manual focus 35mm cameras from the 1980s. We run through the variants (F3, F3 HP, F3T, F3P, F3AF), the camera's features and essential checks to make is buying secondhand.
All 35mm film users will find this video useful - Canon, Nikon, Leica, Olympus. Many of the checks I describe are useful for all.
0:00 Introduction
0:30 Variants
1:30 Feature run-through
4:40 Essential checks
Jonathan Harris - Worldwide Camera Exchange Ltd
Just pick one up from my local shop that’s from 81 based off the serial number and it has some sweet patina to go with its age. It’s amazing how much better things were built back then.
The Nikon F3 is a superb camera. Hope you enjoy using!
Dear Jonathan, practical and all round common sense guidelines.. Much appreciated, thanks
Thanks - much appreciated
One of my favourite cameras I own I have a F3hp with MD4 I believe the F3P was the press no self timer and additional sealing for press photographers outside day all version as all F3s were pro cameras some of the greatest images were taken on Nikon F3 great review stunning camera I love pairing it with my 105mm 2.5 ais lens
Yes, you're right. The shutter lock and speed dial were chunkier, no self timer, hot shoe on prism (and prism was titanium), back specifically for MD4, the back release lock was removed as was the eyepiece blind and multi-exposure ... I think that's all!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange perfect description the F3P and another gorgeous version of a stunning camera thanks Johnathan keep doing what you do it’s appreciated
@@WorldwideCameraExchange the back came as the one that would leave the leader on when the film was rewound
Yes, MF 6B. Should always be used with MD4. Won't sit squarely on its baseplate without it! Thanks for commenting.
I recently bought an F3 off eBay and thankfully, it appears to work fine and my test roll came out beautiful. Buying off eBay is ok IF you follow a few self imposed rules:
Look closely at pictures. The more pics the better.
Read the descriptions carefully
Check seller rating. Of course, higher is better and longer presence on eBay is better.
Don't be afraid to buy from Japan. Many sellers have good value for the money and provide excellent service.
Thanks for commenting.
i just took delivery of mine from japan 3 days ago..PAID fot it... but i'm happy
Great overview, thanks. The F3 was in production from 1980-2001, so an F3 could be between 21 and 42 years old!!
Thanks for commenting - it’s always appreciated. Whilst the F3 was available for many years, production numbers fell significantly after the F4 was introduced. So you’re far, far more likely to find a camera from the 1980s than the early 2000s.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange i just bought one made in mid 2000 :) lucky find!
Wow! Very lucky find!
IMO as long as it functions fine I have no issue with if the body looks like it was used to frame houses. I have a F3P that is brassed and beat to hell but still works fine.
The F3 is a fantastically built camera. But if the outside is worn then the inside will (probably) be worn too so failure is more likely. I’m not saying a worn camera will definitely fail. I’m saying the likelihood of failure is higher in a worn camera than on a little used camera, all other factors being equal. That said if a camera’s worn and cheap it can still be a good buy!
Great overview. Is the flash sync really slow in your opinion. The 1/80. Would that be potential for blur if you are shooting around f8?
No issues at all if you use carefully. Sync speeds around 1/60th, 1/80th and 1/125th were the norm on SLRs for decades until new shutters on cameras such as the FM2 were introduced.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thanks! Helps A lot
Great video, thanks! The foam strip on my newly aquired F3 was smoldering away, and is now more or less gone. Can I use the camera until the foam strip is replaced - or will the exposures/pictures have massive light leaks and such?
You might be okay if it isn’t too bad. Try to keep the camera out of bright light between shots.
Pretty good overview, I was surprised you didn't mention the "T" setting function. It is something that any person wishing to make very long exposures can find extremely useful; with no battery drain to boot.
When checking the mirror movement via the mirror lock-up lever, carefully check the second mirror (which resides directly behind the main mirror) for dust particles. This second mirror reflects light onto the light meter, which is in the base of the mirror housing. The mirror has a centrally located section that is perforated, which allows approximately 8% of the light to pass through which is then re-directed by the second mirror to the light meter. It is this quite concentrated metering which allows the F3 body to have an 80% to 20% centre weighted characteristic, which is very welcome for anyone who is very selective about their metering, but which can catch some people out who are used to the more normal 60% to 40% centre weighted metering in most other cameras of the same era.
With the camera mirror locked up and the shutter open, one can check that the light meter orb (or glass) is free from dust, scratches and anything else by looking through the back of the camera to the front. I have seen one light meter orb scratched and although the meter worked, it didn't work correctly when the camera was pointed directly towards a very bright light. We suspected flare from the scratch was the issue, in that case. We had no idea how the glass in the middle of the mirror box received that scratch.
With regard to the MF-6 auto re-wind back being needed to use the MD4 motor drive, that isn't quite the case. The MF-6 auto re-wind back is needed only if you wish to use the re-wind stop function, which will stop the re-winding so that the film leader remains outside the film cassette. One can use the standard back with the MD4 motor drive, the MF-6 auto re-wind back, or best of all, the MF-18 data back, which will imprint either the date, or a sequential set of vertically exposed frame numbers between the frames, as well as leave the film header out of the cassette upon re-winding. There are other data backs for the F3, but they imprint their information in the image area.
Another way to check whether the exposure LCD is working correctly, or at least working reasonably well. Is to remove the prism head and with the camera on a tripod, look carefully using a magnifying glass at the LCD to check the readouts are changing. Also, press the little red button on the right side of the prism head mount (on the camera body) and see if the night light is lighting up the LCD readout; you will need a darkened room or area to do this and see the quite dim lighting. Trust me when I say this is about the weakest night light you'll ever have the displeasure of using. A hand held light meter and using manual settings is best, or just use aperture priority if you wish for near perfect step less shutter gradations.
This is just some additional information from an F3 user who has used them considerably for well over 30 years and was in response to a friend who is looking for an F3 and passed this review to me for any additional thoughts I may wish to add to help in the pursuit of an F3 body.
Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
Yes, again, this was a good point about the second mirror and teh rear facing Light cell recall from my early days of exploring- thanks.
yeah it's also good to check battery compartment for signs of any corrosion, battery leakage and wear
Thanks for commenting.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you for amazing channel!
Glad it’s useful
Good evening Jonathan. I ,did comment about your Extremely Well detailed information on the F3, a while ago? However, is it normal for the F3 shutter to fire as it should whilst winding on for the first few frames after closing the back then,after winding again, the Shutter doesn't fire for anything up to a Minute? Whilst it's on The A. I'm more used to using The FM2N So i would appreciate Your advice. Many thanks and Kind regards Colyn R.S.V.P.........Hope I have explained myself correctly.
The Nikon F3 shutter timing will not operate until you get to frame one. So if the camera is set on 1 second it won’t fire at this speed until the film is correctly advanced. I’d recommend getting or downloading an F3 manual.
Hi there Johnathan, I have a Nikon F3 but have no moter cap to cover the bottom of the camera.. Do you know what I could use as a replacement/stop gap until I can buy the motordrive cap cover? Also is there an alternative rewind crank and knob that I could use as I replacement for another F3 I have? Any advice would be appreciated
Your best option is to buy a non working F3 from eBay.
@WorldwideCameraExchange Ok thanks Jonathan...
I usually find only HP versions, and no comparisons between usual and HP viewfinder. I don't wear glasses and have no idea whether HP is a suitable for me.
The HP finder is generally better for all.
I love the F, F2 and F5. Never cared for the F3 or F4.
I know what you mean about the Nikon F4, but I love the F3!
Thanks for video, it is a great camera, but i hate changing light seals. it is messy. am a little partial to nikkormats.
Yep, it's a horrible job and I think best left to repairers!
F3 Press?
F3T, F3P, F3AF, F3 High Speed etc are all quite rare variants. Perhaps a good subject for another video but not relevant for the majority of Nikon users / potential users. There’s plenty of information online describing how they differ from the standard Nikon F3 and F3HP cameras.
I don't own an F 3 , But I do on an F4 , my understanding is if you want an F5 and you can't afford Nikon F5 the The Nikon F 75 it's the same camera is the F5 but in plastic ... Nikon ... Nikon never change their camera mount you can fit a manual lens made in 1956 - 2024 , I've always wanted a Nikon F4 or a Nikon F 1 ...I have a early production Nikon F4 very early 222××× .. it works perfectly with the overrated Canon AE-1 with plastic components you might want to go with Nikon cuz it will withstand of time
The Nikon F5 is a solidly built pro-spec camera. The F75 isn’t! I’m sure there are some common components but to say the F75 is a cheaply-clad F5 is completely wrong - sorry! Check out my other videos for lens compatibility but not all lenses can be used on all cameras (or download the lens compatibility chart on Nikon’s website).
⭐️🇹🇷🇹🇷🇹🇷🇹🇷💯👍Nice machine, I have the same one, I wonder how much it costs, I will sell it, thank you.
If your Nikon F3 is working well and in good condition you’ll have no trouble selling it quickly.
The F3 was built until 2001
Yes, but in later years Nikon only built very, very small numbers. They were pretty-much made to order. Mass production stopped years before.
Most of its sales were in the 1980’s. By the 1990’s the F4 and later the F5 had garnered most of the Nikon Flagship model sales. The F3 is a great camera and seems to be the sweet spot between mechanical and electronic shutter cameras. I have the F3 as well as the F2 and F5. I sold the F4 as it felt it was already covered in my F3 and F5. The F3 has a great size and very convenient!
Yep, the F3 is a fantastic camera. Thanks for commenting.