Using a propane torch to burn the face of wood to give it a unique finish. Here's a pic of what the wood was used for... goo.gl/photos/... photos.app.goo...
Im making something similar for some furniture to the bathroom. I think i will go with one coat off matt varnish or do you think it will be better to give it a small layer off a glossy varnish. i belive that when you burn it will be already very matt texture so best to make it a little glossy ??
I hope you can answer a question. Can't seem to find a answer. Can this technique be used on an old oak door that was previously painted? It's to be used outside and a secret garden doorway. Not looking for perfection. The more worn looking the better.
I've used lacquer polyurethane as topcoats for this finish. My instincts say wax would work fine. You do have to clean off some of the char after the burning process. I usually use a shop vac with a brush attachment.
I don't see any reason why not. I'm hesitant to use palet wood for much other than a fire pit, just because you have no idea where they've been, what they've been through, or how gross they might be.
The process has been known to prevent or prolong rotting in wood, but I would not count on it in critical situations. Further research would likely yield more accurate information.
@@mikeadiddle im just using some pine pallets as a fence for my chickens. I wasnt sure if it was worth the time to char the pallet slats or just leave them be, and replace individual slats every few years as they rot.
I think this is a cheap one from Harbor Freight, like 25 bucks. I don't know how long a tank will last, though I've never even come close to running out doing this. You could probably use those little Coleman camping propane cylinders if you wanted it to be lighter.
@@mikeadiddle awesome I already have one of those and 25 bucks is worth it, thought a big propane tank would probably last!! I gotta get started looked friggin awesome and not too expensive either 🤔
Fresh PT wood would likely be too wet. You'd have to let it dry a long time or use kiln-dried PT wood. And before I get all the "you shouldn't burn PT wood because the smoke it toxic" comments... All wood smoke is toxic, and you should wear a propper when burning any kind of wood. It's not the smoke from burning PT wood that is the concern, it's the ash. The arsenic in the wood preservative doesn't burn away, it stays in the leftover ash from burning. That ash is what's deadly. Since there's no ash produced during this technique, no arsenic is released. But don't trust my word. If it's still a concern at all, do not burn PT wood.
Yes, I used spray lacquer on mine after light sanding to about 220-300 grit. You can also easily sand out areas that are burned too much for your taste. In fact, next time I do this I will burn it a little more since finish sanding took off a bit of the burn.
What torch setup do you have here, just a propane tank, hose and big mouth torch? I just bought a Bernzomatic but now wish I had a bigger torch head, save me some time!
Yes, it's just a propane torch from Harbor Freight that hooks directly to a propane tank. I would not want to have to do this with a little pipe sweating torch. It's actually easier to control the heat on a bigger torch.
Question.? I want to Flame treat some Maple Baseball Bats some say you can not flame Treat any Maple Wood.? but can not say why.? thanks for sharing etc.
I'm pretty sure there are bat companies who flame treat maple bats. Wood is wood, it will burn. Different woods and/or grain structure will yield different results, but you can burn maple. Now, if you're talking about "flame treating" in an attempt to harden/strengthen bats or make them more resistant to breaking, well, I'm pretty sure that's a myth that has been debunked long ago.
@@mikeadiddle No Mike Flame Burn them just for the looks as these Bats will only be for the kids Room, I will sand them down good first then Flame Burn them & then Apply a Wood Stain over the Flame burn then a Satin Poly Finish on them. Thanks a million for your reply Appreciate it etc.
That sounds like a fun project! I would suggest doing a test burn on some scrap maple board, first. If you can't do that, don't worry about it too much. The burn can be sanded out if you burn too much. Have fun! Send some pics when you finish.
You can get extra texture if you do heavy burning. The would starts to crack and adds a texture like alligator skin. If you burn to much you can always sand the wood afterwards to get the deisre texture and grain look
I don't think there would be any difference between natural gas a propane using the same torch setup, but I cannot give an expert opinion on the subject. I do know that different gases burn at different temperatures so I would do some test burns first if I were you. Please do your own homework on the subject!! :-)
These are "Laminated Panel Boards." If you look closely you will see they get the width by gluing up several narrower boards to make a wide one. It's how you make panels for cabinet doors. They alternate the grain direction of each narrow board when they are glued together. This means that each one will try to cup in the opposite direction of the one next to it, which keeps the board from cupping as a whole. On some older cabinets/furniture, you can actually see a slight wave going across wide laminated panels from where each individual board did cup/warp in alternating directions, producing a slight back and forth wave along the entire width of the panel.
Honestly, Blake, I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I turned the propane tank valve just enough to let the gas flow. It doesn't take much, but the larger torch head or nozzle or whatever it's called is what makes it go fast and even.
They are edge-glued laminated panels from Home Depot. They are made in Brazil and I have no idea what exact species of wood they are, although they act like regular old pine. They are cheaper than the solid pine boards and much more stable because of the cross-grain lamination. In other words, they are much more likely to stay straight and flat, unlike solid wood board that will cup and bow. Search "Edge-Glued Panel" at Home Depot and you'll see them.
Good question, Mitch, and yes. This was kiln dried, pre-laminated wood panels, and they still cupped a bit. Be prepared for it and plan ahead. I have some more shelves/cabinets that I did for the same client in this same style. I pre-assembled the cabinet and then did the burning process after it was complete. It was a bit more difficult, but I didn't have to deal with the cupping what making the cabinet. The cabinet was made from plywood, however, so it may not have even cupped at all. Experiment and do what's needed for your particular situation. photos.app.goo.gl/RQktW1PSEvSwyFn37
Ok, I'm making little signs with fence cedar boards. then my brother does CNC Plasma Cutting and he makes the designs for me to attach. My first one I charred and it is warped, so I put water on it with a heavy bag. so far it looks as tho it might of fixed it. Also thinking to put a temporary metal backing on the wood with screws, burn, let it cool and remove the metal. Thanks for a quick response.
Cedar is very light and porous which makes me think it is prone to warping even more than a hardwood. You've piqued my interest, now. I happen to have a bunch of cedar sitting around from another project so I might experiment with burning it and see what happens. Why don't you do an experiment and burn both sides to see if it straightens out?
Hey Mike, funny you brought that up, that was my next go round. If not I guess I can just do burnished, dye and Poly and see how that goes. I used cedar cause it was light, cause my brothers metal art is a little heavier, so for an indoor decor I thought I'd keep the weight down.
Yes, I tried a plumbing torch at first and it was way too difficult to control. I also found, with the big torch, that if you sort of pre-heat the wood with quicker passes over the broad surface, that you can control the burn better when you go in for a closer and slower pass.
I don't see any reason why not. I would do a lot of testing, however. The top veneers of most aperance grade plywoods are very, very thin and I suspect it would burn much faster than solid wood.
Where's the how to? I mean.... what kind of wood is this and is it just plain un finished wood or did you put something on it first. Like...some kind of liquid rubbed in first? I dunno, sorry, but all I see is a guy with a blow torch lol, demonstrating without explanation. It's not self explanatory to ppl who have never tried this before. So could you please give a little more information, as to I don't want to start a fire if I'm supposed to soak the wood in something first, or apply something first. Thank you.
HaHa! Yeah, I didn't say much, huh? I'm one of those guys who doesn't like all the talking before a demonstration-- I like to just get to it. Lots of others like that, too, and there's so much info available on this process, already. But to answer your question-- which I'm more than happy to do... The wood is Radiata Pine and the boards are laminated at the factory-- these, in Brazil. There's nothing on the wood, nothing soaked in. It's just the wood. It's probably not a good idea to try this on wood with a finish, especially oil or lacquer-- ESPECIALLY lacquer! That's a good way to start a big fire. :-) This type of torch head with a propane tank worked great for doing a lot of wood in a short time. I later used a smaller plumber's brazing torch to get in smaller areas and places like the edges of boards cut on the saw.
Probably because if someone doesn’t grasp the concept from his demo, he doesn’t want to give too much info to someone that should not be attempting it. He doesn’t want them to think light themselves on fire or their home…. The video is probably for people that can tell what he is using and doing without it being spoon fed. It’s obvious what he’s using to do the burning, the type of wood and that there isn’t any “pretreating” to the wood.
best video on this out there, no bullshit filler.
Good demo. I've found if you run the torch across the grain instead of with the grain, you get more distinct patterns. It's fun to experiment, though.
In my experience, it depends on the species. Always experiment on scraps to see how each species will react.
What kind of a torch is this? I need one!
It's a propane weed burner torch. They are available at most home & garden stores. It's very effective.
Im making something similar for some furniture to the bathroom. I think i will go with one coat off matt varnish or do you think it will be better to give it a small layer off a glossy varnish. i belive that when you burn it will be already very matt texture so best to make it a little glossy ??
Thank you!! Quick and to the 👉point. Like UA-cam videos use to be
Hi...I'm using this method on 1x5's to trim out my son's room and I'm wondering if this cups or warps the boards at all?
I hope you can answer a question. Can't seem to find a answer. Can this technique be used on an old oak door that was previously painted? It's to be used outside and a secret garden doorway. Not looking for perfection. The more worn looking the better.
My bad. Not painted but very very old with some cracks.
I don't see any reason why it can't.
@@mikeadiddle thanks for your quick reply :)
Check out how I used this technique on my desk! Just put out the video on my channel
Good work, looks great. If you do it again, I highly recommend the larger torch nozzle-- it goes much faster and gives you more control.
I like this look and I also like the wax coating look can it be wax coated.? After the burning process..?
I've used lacquer polyurethane as topcoats for this finish. My instincts say wax would work fine. You do have to clean off some of the char after the burning process. I usually use a shop vac with a brush attachment.
Can this be done to wood floors?
I don't see why not. But you would need a very good, durable topcoat finish on it.
I live near a business that tosses old pallets in their side lot. Can I try my hand at this with old pallet wood, provided it’s dry?
I don't see any reason why not. I'm hesitant to use palet wood for much other than a fire pit, just because you have no idea where they've been, what they've been through, or how gross they might be.
@@mikeadiddle for sure! Was only interested in practicing on it since I’ve never done it before, just to get a feel for it.
@@mb5612 Probably perfect for that, then.
can pine pallets be charred so they will not rot ?
The process has been known to prevent or prolong rotting in wood, but I would not count on it in critical situations. Further research would likely yield more accurate information.
@@mikeadiddle im just using some pine pallets as a fence for my chickens. I wasnt sure if it was worth the time to char the pallet slats or just leave them be, and replace individual slats every few years as they rot.
How much did the torch cost and how fast do you go through the propane tank
I think this is a cheap one from Harbor Freight, like 25 bucks. I don't know how long a tank will last, though I've never even come close to running out doing this. You could probably use those little Coleman camping propane cylinders if you wanted it to be lighter.
@@mikeadiddle awesome I already have one of those and 25 bucks is worth it, thought a big propane tank would probably last!! I gotta get started looked friggin awesome and not too expensive either 🤔
What wood is this please as it's more difficult on certain woods?
I think I've only done this in pine, so I wouldn't know the answer to that.
Hi can this Technique be done with a electric heat gun??
I'm sure it could and I think there are some videos of people doing it. But I think it would take a lot longer, depending on the heat gun.
Can pressure treated wood work or it’s too wet ?
Fresh PT wood would likely be too wet. You'd have to let it dry a long time or use kiln-dried PT wood.
And before I get all the "you shouldn't burn PT wood because the smoke it toxic" comments... All wood smoke is toxic, and you should wear a propper when burning any kind of wood. It's not the smoke from burning PT wood that is the concern, it's the ash. The arsenic in the wood preservative doesn't burn away, it stays in the leftover ash from burning. That ash is what's deadly. Since there's no ash produced during this technique, no arsenic is released. But don't trust my word. If it's still a concern at all, do not burn PT wood.
thanks for the lesson i know what I'm doing tomorrow i build and swapmeet sell stuff. nice job sir
This looks so good! Can you apply clear varnish after doing this?
Yes, I used spray lacquer on mine after light sanding to about 220-300 grit.
You can also easily sand out areas that are burned too much for your taste.
In fact, next time I do this I will burn it a little more since finish sanding took off a bit of the burn.
So would it be ok doing all this first before u fit them? I quite fancy it for my attic floor
Hi there could you even make it more rustic by hitting the wood with a chain for a different effect? Then the burn ?
Love this as well
Sybille Espinoza of coarse
What torch setup do you have here, just a propane tank, hose and big mouth torch? I just bought a Bernzomatic but now wish I had a bigger torch head, save me some time!
Yes, it's just a propane torch from Harbor Freight that hooks directly to a propane tank. I would not want to have to do this with a little pipe sweating torch. It's actually easier to control the heat on a bigger torch.
thanks for that... can you varnish over that then
Yes. With any topcoat application, you want to do a thorough job of getting all the dust off the surface.
Question.? I want to Flame treat some Maple Baseball Bats some say you can not flame Treat any Maple Wood.? but can not say why.? thanks for sharing etc.
I'm pretty sure there are bat companies who flame treat maple bats. Wood is wood, it will burn. Different woods and/or grain structure will yield different results, but you can burn maple.
Now, if you're talking about "flame treating" in an attempt to harden/strengthen bats or make them more resistant to breaking, well, I'm pretty sure that's a myth that has been debunked long ago.
@@mikeadiddle No Mike Flame Burn them just for the looks as these Bats will only be for the kids Room, I will sand them down good first then Flame Burn them & then Apply a Wood Stain over the Flame burn then a Satin
Poly Finish on them. Thanks a million for your reply Appreciate it etc.
@@mikeadiddle Mike the Bats are Raw Unfinish Maple if I did not mention that in my Original description of them etc.
That sounds like a fun project! I would suggest doing a test burn on some scrap maple board, first. If you can't do that, don't worry about it too much. The burn can be sanded out if you burn too much. Have fun! Send some pics when you finish.
@@mikeadiddle Thanks again Mike
This looks Awesome!
Thanks!
I have tried burning a few pine boards and some ply wood. However, I am getting sap spots in the wood. Is there a way to prevent that or is it normal?
What do you mean by sap spots? Is sap coming up out of the wood?
Keep it moving
Even with Southern yellow pine which is full of sap if you keep the motion even you won't get that
How can I create this look without a blow torch.
Maybe a heavy-duty heat gun.
So gorgeous!!
การเบิน-เผาไม้ควรหาไม้ขิ้นเล็กๆมาเผาทบลองก่อนการเผาจริง น้ำหนักมือคล้ายการจับกาพ่นสีไปช้าๆจะได้ลายที่สม่ำเสมอมีลายสวยไปอีกแบบ.
You just saved my fucking life! thank you brother!
Glad I could help!
Do get a texture on the wood after burning (peaks and valleys)?
I didn’t notice any, but I suppose it might be possible on another type of wood.
You can get extra texture if you do heavy burning. The would starts to crack and adds a texture like alligator skin. If you burn to much you can always sand the wood afterwards to get the deisre texture and grain look
Thank you!!!! 😍
Could this be done with a natural gas connection stubbed out of the house?
I don't think there would be any difference between natural gas a propane using the same torch setup, but I cannot give an expert opinion on the subject.
I do know that different gases burn at different temperatures so I would do some test burns first if I were you. Please do your own homework on the subject!! :-)
perhaps you should also consider the flame pressure, though I'm not an expert either
What kind of Tip is that you are using on the end of your torch.?
It's the one that comes on the (Item#91033) propane torch from Harbor Freight.
@@mikeadiddle Thanks again love your work there.
How do you keep it from cupping? or if it does whats your remedy to straighten it?
These are "Laminated Panel Boards." If you look closely you will see they get the width by gluing up several narrower boards to make a wide one. It's how you make panels for cabinet doors.
They alternate the grain direction of each narrow board when they are glued together. This means that each one will try to cup in the opposite direction of the one next to it, which keeps the board from cupping as a whole.
On some older cabinets/furniture, you can actually see a slight wave going across wide laminated panels from where each individual board did cup/warp in alternating directions, producing a slight back and forth wave along the entire width of the panel.
How high did you have your torch set to?
Honestly, Blake, I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I turned the propane tank valve just enough to let the gas flow. It doesn't take much, but the larger torch head or nozzle or whatever it's called is what makes it go fast and even.
mikeadiddle thank you
Was this just regular pine 2x12s or something else?
They are edge-glued laminated panels from Home Depot. They are made in Brazil and I have no idea what exact species of wood they are, although they act like regular old pine. They are cheaper than the solid pine boards and much more stable because of the cross-grain lamination. In other words, they are much more likely to stay straight and flat, unlike solid wood board that will cup and bow. Search "Edge-Glued Panel" at Home Depot and you'll see them.
@@mikeadiddle AWesome, thank you so much for the tip
Has your wood ever Warped after?
Good question, Mitch, and yes. This was kiln dried, pre-laminated wood panels, and they still cupped a bit. Be prepared for it and plan ahead. I have some more shelves/cabinets that I did for the same client in this same style. I pre-assembled the cabinet and then did the burning process after it was complete. It was a bit more difficult, but I didn't have to deal with the cupping what making the cabinet. The cabinet was made from plywood, however, so it may not have even cupped at all. Experiment and do what's needed for your particular situation.
photos.app.goo.gl/RQktW1PSEvSwyFn37
Ok, I'm making little signs with fence cedar boards. then my brother does CNC Plasma Cutting and he makes the designs for me to attach. My first one I charred and it is warped, so I put water on it with a heavy bag. so far it looks as tho it might of fixed it. Also thinking to put a temporary metal backing on the wood with screws, burn, let it cool and remove the metal.
Thanks for a quick response.
Cedar is very light and porous which makes me think it is prone to warping even more than a hardwood.
You've piqued my interest, now. I happen to have a bunch of cedar sitting around from another project so I might experiment with burning it and see what happens.
Why don't you do an experiment and burn both sides to see if it straightens out?
Hey Mike, funny you brought that up, that was my next go round. If not I guess I can just do burnished, dye and Poly and see how that goes. I used cedar cause it was light, cause my brothers metal art is a little heavier, so for an indoor decor I thought I'd keep the weight down.
What kind of torch is that
It's a propane torch from Harbor Freight that hooks directly to a grill-type propane tank. Item#91033
Alright cool thank you, I've been trying that with a small torch but it's too direct
Yes, I tried a plumbing torch at first and it was way too difficult to control.
I also found, with the big torch, that if you sort of pre-heat the wood with quicker passes over the broad surface, that you can control the burn better when you go in for a closer and slower pass.
Awesome, thanks
Clean 💯💯👍
Can you do this with plywood?
I don't see any reason why not. I would do a lot of testing, however. The top veneers of most aperance grade plywoods are very, very thin and I suspect it would burn much faster than solid wood.
I'm guessing I shouldn't try this with wood already treated with linseed oil lol
Yeah, that might not turn out so well. :-)
:)
Where's the how to? I mean.... what kind of wood is this and is it just plain un finished wood or did you put something on it first. Like...some kind of liquid rubbed in first? I dunno, sorry, but all I see is a guy with a blow torch lol, demonstrating without explanation. It's not self explanatory to ppl who have never tried this before. So could you please give a little more information, as to I don't want to start a fire if I'm supposed to soak the wood in something first, or apply something first. Thank you.
HaHa! Yeah, I didn't say much, huh? I'm one of those guys who doesn't like all the talking before a demonstration-- I like to just get to it. Lots of others like that, too, and there's so much info available on this process, already.
But to answer your question-- which I'm more than happy to do...
The wood is Radiata Pine and the boards are laminated at the factory-- these, in Brazil. There's nothing on the wood, nothing soaked in. It's just the wood. It's probably not a good idea to try this on wood with a finish, especially oil or lacquer-- ESPECIALLY lacquer! That's a good way to start a big fire. :-)
This type of torch head with a propane tank worked great for doing a lot of wood in a short time. I later used a smaller plumber's brazing torch to get in smaller areas and places like the edges of boards cut on the saw.
FearlessMe ART & DESIGN it can not have anything before torch, jus bare wood, finish goes after.
So it'll be no good on decking boards, will decking boards be treated?
Probably because if someone doesn’t grasp the concept from his demo, he doesn’t want to give too much info to someone that should not be attempting it. He doesn’t want them to think light themselves on fire or their home…. The video is probably for people that can tell what he is using and doing without it being spoon fed. It’s obvious what he’s using to do the burning, the type of wood and that there isn’t any “pretreating” to the wood.
Step one, Burn the wood.
HA! Well, yeah, but it's a controlled burn. I mean, if you don't stop burning.... :-)
Thank you if you need anything look me up on Facebook.
I am pretty sure you can still buy handbook with all details you need on woodprix.
I found pyro