Your fine channel somehow entered my feed now. I've binged watch every video you've made. Great presentation, humour and of course troubleshooting skills not to shabby at soldering either. I really want to send you my old smartwatch not see you fix one yet not taking charge.
Might I make a small suggestion? Get yourself a bunch of the pre-wired female plugs for those connectors of multiple different sizes. Parallel them all together and solder to the charger module. This way you just need to plug the battery into the appropriate connector. Could even solder on alligator clips for added universality.
Steve, please, for the love of god, start using flux when desoldering stuff with hot air and not just for cleaning with the wick or soldering new stuff in.
Your channel has inspired me to fix things myself, including our soup maker which would only switch on to blend mode and my sat nav. I would not have been able to do this without what I have learn't from you. Thank you.
I'm licensed in expert level soldering and circuit board repair, and one thing I always tell people is to 'Flux the Fu*k' out of everything. I have been watching your channel for over a year now and I have to say that a new episode is the highlight of my evening. If you ever want to ask any questions about soldering or circuit board repair, I leave my door open to you. :)
I was watching him pull the port off that little board, wondering why it wouldn't come off. More flux would have helped to spread and maintain a consistent temp making it far easier to remove the port from the little board.
@@chillzwinter In my opinion, use genuine Amtech 559 flux and Chemtronics Chem-Wik. Solder depends on what you are working on, typically a quality 60/40 (Multicore) and 145C LMP (low temp) if necessary.
@chillzwinter my favorite flux that i use every single day is Stirri's V2 for light work, and the v3 for intense, long heat time work. Think, v2 for replacing resistors. V3 for pulling through hole or anything with pads on the bottom. And i am a huge fan of chemtronics solder wick. I use these every single day.
Hey Steve, loving the videos, they've helped my get though a rough time in my life and I've pretty much watched all of them. You've come a long way from you're first video's. Keep up the great work my friend. Love from Canada
Steve, cool channel. I enjoy watching your videos. One advice - when you are dealing with deeply discharged lithium cells do not use your thingy instead use your lab power supply. Especially as some people say you use your thingy badly - connecting to 5V input not regulated output. I did it once with mine too😮. Set your lab power supply to 4.2V or multiple if it is not single cell and current limit very low for start if cell shows 0V meaning internal protector turned it off. I mean 50 or 100mA. When battery starts charging you see what voltage it was on your lab power supply display. If it is around 2.5V leave it on 100mA until 3V. Then you can increase current to let's say 0.5A. Above 3.3V could be 1A or 1C so same current in A as capacity in Ah. All depends on battery size. For small cells leave it on some hundreds of mA.
I have one of those battery chargers. I put wires on it with clips on each end. Makes it so much easier to use. Shove a thin wire into the battery connector then clip to that. No soldering required to use it. I even put it into a little plastic case. So handy.
when a counter for the times you short circuit a battery by cutting both leads at once. You give me hope when you said you wouldn't cut it and bam you put the led in and cut both leads at once luckily at least it was empty.
Thanks for showing this awesome little handheld. I just bought one for myself :) Hope, it does not need fixing, but I guess I would know where to send it.
The Super Pockets also use the data lines because firmware updates are done over USB. A couple of evercade cartridge games didn't work on them until a firmware update was released. All in all, the Super Pockets are lovely little handhelds to play, not all games are good on them as those rear buttons aren't practical, but games that use the face buttons work great. I love my little Super Pockets and Evercade in general.
I love your videos, they are amazing. Would you mind writing down in the comments ( or description easy finding for everyone ) the solder used in this video, even better if you add the links where you buy the solder :). For a non native English speaker and completely beginning in this matters I found it extremely difficult to understand those. ThankS!
Man, I gotta get me a Dave... such great little helper. Also, when I absolutely need to not melt something, I sandwich kapton and aluminum/copper tape together (kapton goes underneath), works great for me.
You can always use your side cutters to clip off little bits of low melt soldier to the ancor points. Also can use capton tape uneath the foil tape to make removal easier and cleaner.
As in a previous video you have connected the lipo cell to the wrong terminals of the TP4056 module. The battery connects to the B plus and minus terminals for safe / correct charging.
Peeps claim he's "intentionally" not using the "safe" connection in order to force trickle charging or something on batteries that don't normally charge under "safe" charging conditions. I'm personally half-and-half on whether this is true or not, but videos have shown that his method is effective in charging the batteries nonetheless.
@apollolux In which case he should give a warning. In this video it was a protected cell, you can see the small protection circuit. If others follow this example on an unprotected cell it could overcharge and overheat. The whole purpose of that module is to provide safe charging. Use a bench PSU with current limit if you want to force charge.
@@BlackheathTownhouse Would _you_ want to go through the effort every time to set up a temporary charging circuit that would literally just be two wires directly connected to a USB port dangling in air?
I don't own a Super Pocket so i had no idea if the cartridge port was supposed to be like that or not, and was thinking to myself when he added the glue, was what if its like that to let the Evercade cartridges and now he just likely ruined it. Glad that wasn't the case
I see someone also bought a new Anker power bank in the Amazon sale.... Albeit they are just about always on sale (like now). I got 4 or 5 to trickle charge various things like lawnmower, power a heated jacket etc. They really don't like the cold though, one has already died in under a month (going through the warranty process as we speak). To anyone thinking of buying one though, instead of buying something like the Prime 24,000mAh (£70), get x2 Prime 12,000mAh (£35 each) ones as its the same price, can use 2 of them at once (so the maximum charge speed x2 as opposed to splitting it), more outputs for charging, charge 2 separate locations and its not 1 super heavy brick and more realistic for carrying - The 24,000mAh, while impressive in size for what it is, its pretty dense and heavy. I also recommend the "used like new" on Amazon as with the Anker Prime models you can see how many times its been cycled/charged and all mine were 0 or 1. This is not the case with used/reconditioned ones from the Anker store on eBay (I do not recommend buying on eBay), as I asked Anker about condition and battery cycles and the best they would guarantee is a 90% charge and advised that the units would have been heavily used/so expect marks.
I bodged a Lenovo ThinkPad L520 a while ago. One of its USB ports is rather tall i.e. it sits quite high off of the motherboard. I found one that I thought fit but it turned out it was flipped. I made it work by supergluing a thin piece of plastic to the board and then superglueing a USB port to the top of it. I soldered some very short wires to the board and then to the port. It worked without issue. I'd rather bodge a 12 year old laptop and keep it running than scrap it for the sake of doing a "proper" repair.
After being introduced to superglue activator via work years ago, I can't glue anything without it. Instant set, like concrete. My reading glasses at work had the arms glued back on 7 years ago with activator, still "solid".
Hi I I’ve that one & the capcom one too , the built in games chug , like it hasn’t been tested before being released for sale , screen bleed too in the corners . so more to fix , if your encounter the same problems 😂
I really don’t know if you have heard of this company name said properly or not but it’s said Tai-To. (Tie-toe) I’m just trying to be helpful. Great Vid 😊
Hey Steve, what is that usb-c board called? The one that forces batteries to charge when they are completely dead? Even if you can link one that would be fine.
Hi Steve. I watch another channel called black belt barrister and his subscriptions went from 200 a video to 12k per video when he asked at the beginning of a video. Obviously you don't have to do it all the time, but you deserve so many more subs than you have, so good for thought. See what Dave thinks.
I noticed recently BlackBeltBarrister was also liking xenophobic comments on his videos. Perhaps his appeal to those types is also giving him a surge in popularity. 😞
I was under the impression that the battery should be connected to the B+ and B- pads of the TP4056 and that the OUT+ and OUT- pads should be connected to the load. Am I wrong ?
I wouldn't go straight in with soldering a new USB port on. The old one was damaged. That could mean it stopped working and the previous owner got angry to the point they broke the port. You'd have wasted a lot of time if the USB-C port was damaged as a result of further issues. Instead, I'd just solder ground and 5V, inject some power and confirm the device charges before trying a new port.
I'm a hobbies and learner but when I'm searching online all I'm finding is led free with rosin core is that as good or not and what gauge solder should I be looking for many thanks for any help and UK based if that makes any difference lmai
Your fine channel somehow entered my feed now. I've binged watch every video you've made. Great presentation, humour and of course troubleshooting skills not to shabby at soldering either. I really want to send you my old smartwatch not see you fix one yet not taking charge.
I think he fixed one once? He hates em 😂
Might I make a small suggestion? Get yourself a bunch of the pre-wired female plugs for those connectors of multiple different sizes. Parallel them all together and solder to the charger module. This way you just need to plug the battery into the appropriate connector. Could even solder on alligator clips for added universality.
Thank you god i have Steve in english again.
I still don't, I still get those dumb auto translated title/description :(
@@Mindereaksame, my Steve is German now :(
he keeps saying American things though drives me mad LOL
Yes, made by Blaze. It's done as a cheaper alternative to the main Evercade range. Separate branding but also compatible with all evercade carts.
Steve, please, for the love of god, start using flux when desoldering stuff with hot air and not just for cleaning with the wick or soldering new stuff in.
yeah this was hard to watch
In fairness he did say: I probably have used flux on that - in his usual flippant comment provoking way. Hook - line and sinker!
Your channel has inspired me to fix things myself, including our soup maker which would only switch on to blend mode and my sat nav. I would not have been able to do this without what I have learn't from you. Thank you.
Cus I got one hand in my pocket and the other is giving Steve a subscribe ❤
I'm licensed in expert level soldering and circuit board repair, and one thing I always tell people is to 'Flux the Fu*k' out of everything. I have been watching your channel for over a year now and I have to say that a new episode is the highlight of my evening. If you ever want to ask any questions about soldering or circuit board repair, I leave my door open to you. :)
Question - whats the best flux and solder and solder wick to buy to do the least damage when removing components.
I was watching him pull the port off that little board, wondering why it wouldn't come off. More flux would have helped to spread and maintain a consistent temp making it far easier to remove the port from the little board.
@@chillzwinter In my opinion, use genuine Amtech 559 flux and Chemtronics Chem-Wik. Solder depends on what you are working on, typically a quality 60/40 (Multicore) and 145C LMP (low temp) if necessary.
@chillzwinter my favorite flux that i use every single day is Stirri's V2 for light work, and the v3 for intense, long heat time work. Think, v2 for replacing resistors. V3 for pulling through hole or anything with pads on the bottom. And i am a huge fan of chemtronics solder wick. I use these every single day.
Your soldering still encourages me at the hardest moments
Coming at ya from Auckland NZ, love the vids Steve!
Great work as usual but I do object to "Aluminum" 😂
Brilliant fix and lucky you found that port well done Steve 😊
Had to show some love... that is tedious work, and your patience is a welcome sight.
Hey Steve, loving the videos, they've helped my get though a rough time in my life and I've pretty much watched all of them. You've come a long way from you're first video's. Keep up the great work my friend. Love from Canada
Steve, cool channel. I enjoy watching your videos. One advice - when you are dealing with deeply discharged lithium cells do not use your thingy instead use your lab power supply. Especially as some people say you use your thingy badly - connecting to 5V input not regulated output. I did it once with mine too😮. Set your lab power supply to 4.2V or multiple if it is not single cell and current limit very low for start if cell shows 0V meaning internal protector turned it off. I mean 50 or 100mA. When battery starts charging you see what voltage it was on your lab power supply display. If it is around 2.5V leave it on 100mA until 3V. Then you can increase current to let's say 0.5A. Above 3.3V could be 1A or 1C so same current in A as capacity in Ah. All depends on battery size. For small cells leave it on some hundreds of mA.
I have one of those battery chargers. I put wires on it with clips on each end. Makes it so much easier to use. Shove a thin wire into the battery connector then clip to that. No soldering required to use it. I even put it into a little plastic case. So handy.
Great work Steve ! You didn’t even have to reset the counter !
You crack me up every time just keep this up, I always look forward to the new video. Cheers Chris
You're some electronics wizard Steve!
You are the best man. Please make more videogame repairs, we love it.
Love your videos and watching you repair stuff and the things you say in them 😊
Nice wee fix for Sunday night viewing.Keep up the good work
Great video, Steve. I really enjoy when you repair small handheld devices like this!
I spotted the 3:45 and immediately did a "high five" . Time passes. GR8T video!
when a counter for the times you short circuit a battery by cutting both leads at once. You give me hope when you said you wouldn't cut it and bam you put the led in and cut both leads at once luckily at least it was empty.
Dave is such a good worker, I´m always impressed.
You trying to fit that effing thing in , describes my whole day , cheers Stfix
Those clamps came in clutch man. Beautiful!
Thanks for showing this awesome little handheld. I just bought one for myself :) Hope, it does not need fixing, but I guess I would know where to send it.
Steve you need to fix your subscriber counter! Your up to 176,000! Congrats man!
Just stumbled across your channel. You are a character. Very funny
The Super Pockets also use the data lines because firmware updates are done over USB. A couple of evercade cartridge games didn't work on them until a firmware update was released. All in all, the Super Pockets are lovely little handhelds to play, not all games are good on them as those rear buttons aren't practical, but games that use the face buttons work great. I love my little Super Pockets and Evercade in general.
You're a wizard Harry.. I mean Steve
Nice repair... I want one of those now
I love your videos, they are amazing. Would you mind writing down in the comments ( or description easy finding for everyone ) the solder used in this video, even better if you add the links where you buy the solder :). For a non native English speaker and completely beginning in this matters I found it extremely difficult to understand those. ThankS!
Hello. Have you had a look at the Sony wm20 I sent you in may please. Cheers.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Man, I gotta get me a Dave... such great little helper. Also, when I absolutely need to not melt something, I sandwich kapton and aluminum/copper tape together (kapton goes underneath), works great for me.
You can always use your side cutters to clip off little bits of low melt soldier to the ancor points. Also can use capton tape uneath the foil tape to make removal easier and cleaner.
Absolutely brilliant .
Not sure how many more you will do before Xmas. Happy Xmas Dave - cheers
Hi Steve, excellent repair.
But I noticed that you had erased the first letter off your powerbank.
I'm sure it has a W missing.
😂😅🤣😂
Nicely done Steve!😊
Mix low melt into your solder for easier removel of stubborn ports
As always another perfect repair... now I want one of those.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
Yup another banger ending credit song... you really need to release a few tracks for us to enjoy!
That is a strong hair do Steve. The Northern Quarter is calling...
As in a previous video you have connected the lipo cell to the wrong terminals of the TP4056 module. The battery connects to the B plus and minus terminals for safe / correct charging.
Peeps claim he's "intentionally" not using the "safe" connection in order to force trickle charging or something on batteries that don't normally charge under "safe" charging conditions. I'm personally half-and-half on whether this is true or not, but videos have shown that his method is effective in charging the batteries nonetheless.
@apollolux In which case he should give a warning. In this video it was a protected cell, you can see the small protection circuit. If others follow this example on an unprotected cell it could overcharge and overheat. The whole purpose of that module is to provide safe charging. Use a bench PSU with current limit if you want to force charge.
If he is doing it intentionally, why use a charging module at all if he is going to bypass it?
I really thought this would be the video where he finally addressed this. Nope
@@BlackheathTownhouse Would _you_ want to go through the effort every time to set up a temporary charging circuit that would literally just be two wires directly connected to a USB port dangling in air?
Well done...another success!..👍
I don't own a Super Pocket so i had no idea if the cartridge port was supposed to be like that or not, and was thinking to myself when he added the glue, was what if its like that to let the Evercade cartridges and now he just likely ruined it. Glad that wasn't the case
Bro... @ 4:38 ... the name of your battery charging gadget board is called a 'LIFESAVER' (because I said so) 😉
16:22 "... now I just need to hold that for... an hour... " 🤣🤣
When u cut through the led legs could that temporarily short the battery as it was connected ? , your videos are ace mate love watching
Nice! Good fix.
As a new subscriber, would you mind introducing Dave to an old man? Wonderful videos, I must say.
i need to get one of them evercades at some point they look awesome
Thanks for the fun videos. Can you gift you a nail clipper?
Mfw you're used to the perfection that is JoeyDoesTech's sublime, silky smooth (???) but most of all clean and tidy soldering skills. ;D
Love your Fixs Ste. 👍
Another great video!
you only tin the connection pads not the mounting holes, reflow drop on and then after its attached you do the legs.
Well yeah.. Thats one way to do it. This method seems to work just fine😉
@@a.j9645Yea no thats not how it works😂
Yeah I'm surprised it worked how he did it, but also impressed!
If it weerks it weeeerks
I see someone also bought a new Anker power bank in the Amazon sale.... Albeit they are just about always on sale (like now). I got 4 or 5 to trickle charge various things like lawnmower, power a heated jacket etc. They really don't like the cold though, one has already died in under a month (going through the warranty process as we speak).
To anyone thinking of buying one though, instead of buying something like the Prime 24,000mAh (£70), get x2 Prime 12,000mAh (£35 each) ones as its the same price, can use 2 of them at once (so the maximum charge speed x2 as opposed to splitting it), more outputs for charging, charge 2 separate locations and its not 1 super heavy brick and more realistic for carrying - The 24,000mAh, while impressive in size for what it is, its pretty dense and heavy.
I also recommend the "used like new" on Amazon as with the Anker Prime models you can see how many times its been cycled/charged and all mine were 0 or 1. This is not the case with used/reconditioned ones from the Anker store on eBay (I do not recommend buying on eBay), as I asked Anker about condition and battery cycles and the best they would guarantee is a 90% charge and advised that the units would have been heavily used/so expect marks.
Sensible Soccer, what a game that was!
I bodged a Lenovo ThinkPad L520 a while ago. One of its USB ports is rather tall i.e. it sits quite high off of the motherboard. I found one that I thought fit but it turned out it was flipped. I made it work by supergluing a thin piece of plastic to the board and then superglueing a USB port to the top of it. I soldered some very short wires to the board and then to the port. It worked without issue. I'd rather bodge a 12 year old laptop and keep it running than scrap it for the sake of doing a "proper" repair.
After being introduced to superglue activator via work years ago, I can't glue anything without it. Instant set, like concrete. My reading glasses at work had the arms glued back on 7 years ago with activator, still "solid".
Thanks dave good job
I never noticed you wore a wig! Brave man :D :D :D Awesome video as usual. Thanks for keeping me entertained whilst I do a repetitive boring task!>
You've made me go down the "surface mounted component hold down" rabbit hole again sir.
GG! great fix.
Great job !
12:41
I feel like leaving the mounting legs open for this method would be easier. But if it works, it works.
Hi I I’ve that one & the capcom one too , the built in games chug , like it hasn’t been tested before being released for sale , screen bleed too in the corners . so more to fix , if your encounter the same problems 😂
I like your new haircut. You've taken years off your age and it suits the rapper aesthetic better.
that USB-C connector is a frisky wee little tyke!
😅 it certainly was
Great channel dude, haircut looks good, makes you look like the manager of a failed boy band. 😁👍
I'm glad you're getting paid enough now, bro.
That's a nice looking device, it's a shame the port was completely destroyed.
I really don’t know if you have heard of this company name said properly or not but it’s said Tai-To. (Tie-toe) I’m just trying to be helpful. Great Vid 😊
If there is one thing the British are best in the world at, it is mangling even the simplest of Japanese names.
@ lol
Dave needs to do this kinds of port by heating underneath snd than drop the pory
It is so funny how just one frase, can put a smile on your face.
"Stupid Game!"
Hey Steve, what is that usb-c board called? The one that forces batteries to charge when they are completely dead? Even if you can link one that would be fine.
Hi Steve. I watch another channel called black belt barrister and his subscriptions went from 200 a video to 12k per video when he asked at the beginning of a video. Obviously you don't have to do it all the time, but you deserve so many more subs than you have, so good for thought. See what Dave thinks.
Meant to say food for thought. STUPID keyboard.
I noticed recently BlackBeltBarrister was also liking xenophobic comments on his videos. Perhaps his appeal to those types is also giving him a surge in popularity. 😞
@FikuKromoUzuFajrovulpon what? that's very unfortunate.
Hi could you repair my ebike battery 😮 it needs a reboot i left it outside last winter
i think it is time you get some Solder paste for such tricky repairs.
but what did you clean it with, i missed you saying how pure it was :)
Guys if you have DC power supply set it to 5V 0.5A and use crocodile clips to inset sewing needles into baterie conectors like this.
Just wish you'd picked Sensible World of Soccer instead. That game was ace!
I was under the impression that the battery should be connected to the B+ and B- pads of the TP4056 and that the OUT+ and OUT- pads should be connected to the load. Am I wrong ?
👋 What temperature/air flow was the hot air station?
I wouldn't go straight in with soldering a new USB port on. The old one was damaged. That could mean it stopped working and the previous owner got angry to the point they broke the port. You'd have wasted a lot of time if the USB-C port was damaged as a result of further issues. Instead, I'd just solder ground and 5V, inject some power and confirm the device charges before trying a new port.
Hey, you soldered wrong point to tp4056 module, for charging battery you need solder to B+/B- pad, two pad outside are for load.
Why do you keep charging the batteries on the load side instead of the battery side of the charger?
TAITO made the best game of all time!!! Arkenoid!
Why aluminum tape and not aluminium tape?
Aluminum tape is cheaper with less i's. 😂
@@Njazmo More i's makes it easier to see what you're doing.
There's an even better alternative, which is aluminuminium tape.
Steve its aluminium not alluminum ...and rocking the shaved sides mullet? 😂 Nice 👍
I'm a hobbies and learner but when I'm searching online all I'm finding is led free with rosin core is that as good or not and what gauge solder should I be looking for many thanks for any help and UK based if that makes any difference lmai
What is the USB C board he used to charge the flat battery? If someone knows what it is called or what it is I would be greatful.
Rather than using, might I suggest a big blob of blutac instead?
Solid.