How to Smooth 3D Prints Properly

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  • Опубліковано 24 гру 2024

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  • @CaliMeatWagon
    @CaliMeatWagon Рік тому +85

    There are also primer/fillers. They do the job of both in one product. Self etching primer/filler is what I look for.

  • @NotMorganFreeman.
    @NotMorganFreeman. Рік тому +53

    Being a modeler for at least 45 years of my life, I am to the point where I want to sand 0%. Layer lines are the what keep me from purchasing a lot of 3D prints, and the main reason I buy from sellers who only show pictures of completed prints and not the stl preview files. I want to see their finished result, not what it's supposed to look like. It's also a reason I prefer resin prints. Good information here.

    • @com34x
      @com34x Рік тому +26

      I use a .25 nozzle and print at .10 layer height. You barely see lines and if u do only a quick sanding or even primer is needed to fill those in. It takes longer to print but if you want higher quality that is what is needed

    • @NotMorganFreeman.
      @NotMorganFreeman. Рік тому +4

      @@com34x Also good information, thanks!

    • @YouNikSan
      @YouNikSan 2 місяці тому

      @@com34x what printer and material do you use?

  • @belkitoFUERTE
    @belkitoFUERTE Рік тому +41

    Chemist here.
    Just wanna say that while PP plastics are highly resistant to acetone, this is only under standard conditions. For anyone reading, try to remain in an environment that is at room temperature (20-25 degrees Celsius or 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit) and stick to lower concentrations of acetone when using any and all acetone baths.
    methanol is also a really good alternative and is far less aggressive than acetone. so if anyone needs to adjust based on their environment, try out both the alcohol (methanol) and the ketone (acetone).
    just remember to wear goggles and gloves, and avoid inhaling fumes. I highly suggest wearing a mask when handling both methanol and acetone. both molecules have acute toxicity.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +2

      Thank you for your Input! Very helpful!

    • @BernasLL
      @BernasLL Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D Pin the comment :)

    • @andrewalvarez8110
      @andrewalvarez8110 Рік тому +1

      acetone is not an alcohol lol. does not have the hydroxyl group, but a carbonyl. but otherwise great advice

    • @belkitoFUERTE
      @belkitoFUERTE Рік тому

      you're correct it is a ketone. I totally overlooked that while typing and meant to just say "methanol" is the alcohol hence its nomenclature. Thank you, I just fixed it.@@andrewalvarez8110

    • @jasonsmith7902
      @jasonsmith7902 Рік тому +4

      Where did he say it was an alcohol?

  • @Cyromantik
    @Cyromantik Рік тому +60

    I have a third method: use an ironing tip with a soldering iron and carefully smooth your more rugged surfaces. This takes a gentle touch, and lingering over any point will discolore or melt your print.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +30

      This method is OK. The big issue with this method is that some plastics like ABS, for example, generate slightly toxic fumes when melted.

  • @Brakzillaa
    @Brakzillaa Рік тому +171

    The best method, as ive learned this from UncleJessy, who learned from other enthusiast, is to use clear UV resin as a top coating. Fast, no dry time, easy sanding, and You keep alot of detail, while deleting the layer lines.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +55

      The reason why I don't like this method is because resin is expensive and toxic when it hardens.

    • @benjamin8399
      @benjamin8399 Рік тому +67

      @@Craftknights3D It's toxic before it hardens, once cured it's safe to handle

    • @michaelsorensen7567
      @michaelsorensen7567 Рік тому

      ​@@benjamin8399dust particles tho

    • @atillathehung2000
      @atillathehung2000 Рік тому +36

      @@benjamin8399 that is true, but the dust is still toxic so if it rubs on anything and dust gets in the air it’s still not good for you. Also, I personally don’t do this because a lot of resins can inhibit silicone curing which is what I do with my prints.

    • @Abedeuss
      @Abedeuss Рік тому +5

      @@Craftknights3D It's toxic BEFORE you cure it. After curing it, it might go yellow after drying but it takes a few weeks/months and you can always just paint it and use a varnish.

  • @hicamajig
    @hicamajig 11 місяців тому +6

    Another option that I prefer over resin and baby powder is bondo or another similar spot putty mixed with acetone. Dries super fast, is fairly cheap, and then once you sand it all the lines disappear. Afterwards can use the filler primer as a final pass so you don’t need to use as many filler primer and sand and prime passes as they are more expensive.

  • @Bazillon
    @Bazillon 4 місяці тому +1

    I tried the spray spatula and it worked like a charm. I was too lazy to sand it but it's still so much better. Thanks for the video.

  • @trevorminton6084
    @trevorminton6084 Рік тому +67

    the main issue that I have with sanding is that it's always very uneven and it can wear away the outermost details while leaving roughness in the valleys of the print. I'm curious if you could use a rock tumbler with a very fine abrasive powder for smoothing PLA and PETG. It might be something worth experimenting with for my next project.

    • @BombShot
      @BombShot Рік тому +9

      That's why he recommended spraying it with some sort of filler paint. What the filler paint essentially does is add an outer shell, and when you sand it back you leave the outer shell's high parts. (Better way to think of it is after it's sanded what you're left with is all of the indents from the layer lines filled in, which makes things smoother.)

    • @Paasj
      @Paasj Рік тому +1

      Tumbling prints may be a nice solution : ua-cam.com/video/TlD9USAhcEs/v-deo.html

    • @zteir
      @zteir Рік тому

      lemme know how that works!!

    • @tonybablony2041
      @tonybablony2041 2 місяці тому

      @@BombShoteven then the op’s stands, I don’t think you understand that.

  • @GaryMcKinnonUFO
    @GaryMcKinnonUFO 10 місяців тому +1

    Thanks for this, i'll try the acetone route since i have some. I've read many bad reviews about PVB filament so i'm not eager to try it.

  • @frikkiesmit327
    @frikkiesmit327 Рік тому +2

    That pokeball made me sub! Looks like this channel is worth it

  • @uuu521
    @uuu521 Рік тому +181

    Why am i here? I dont even own. 3d printer

  • @Schnapsbrennor
    @Schnapsbrennor 11 місяців тому +1

    Spray spatula is a great idea. WIll try that. Also I will try gently blow torching it.

  • @SamuelLeonardLeivaGómez
    @SamuelLeonardLeivaGómez Рік тому +3

    I strongly recomienda u guys to use transparent nail varnish instado of resine. It is cheaper, easier to use and gives better results

  • @williamelewis464
    @williamelewis464 Рік тому +10

    I use a heat gun made for soldering and desoldering so I can control the temperature precisely and can “fix” any mistakes imbedded in the print

  • @tamsinp7711
    @tamsinp7711 Рік тому +27

    There is another method, which I've recently tried and found to work - coating the part with Mod Podge. It does a good job of smoothing out layer lines but may need more than one coat, especially for thicker layer lines.
    An advantage of this product is that it dries clear.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +10

      Thank you for letting me know. I completely forgot about that method. I used to smooth smaller 3D prints with white craftsglue when I was new to 3D printing.
      It's a good method and you can prime and paint the model If you want to.

    • @Brakzillaa
      @Brakzillaa Рік тому +2

      Instead of Mod podge, I recommend Clear UV resin.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +10

      @@Brakzillaa also an Option. However Resin ist more expensive than modpodge and it releases toxic fumes while it hardens.

    • @tamsinp7711
      @tamsinp7711 Рік тому +11

      @@Brakzillaa that is certainly one method, but has disadvantages when compared to Mod Podge:
      1) UV resin is more expensive than Mod Podge
      2) UV resin is toxic - you'll need to wear gloves when working with it; Mod Podge doesn't need gloves
      3) UV resin needs IPA or similar to clean up tools and spills; Mod Podge can be cleaned up with water
      4) UV resin needs a UV source (torch or curing station) for curing; Mod Podge cures in air.
      If you have UV resin and a curing station then, yes, it's a reasonable method, but not everybody has those and Mod Podge is readily available.

    • @SublimeSings
      @SublimeSings Рік тому

      Do you have a type of mod podge you recommend? I didn't realize there's so many types 😅

  • @bobbygranito9475
    @bobbygranito9475 10 місяців тому +2

    Very helpfull, thank you I am new at working with 3D printing so this was a big help.

  • @bitsurfer0101
    @bitsurfer0101 2 дні тому

    I like using the lacquer dip method. You might need to thin down the lacquer though first.

  • @aarepelaa1142
    @aarepelaa1142 2 місяці тому

    Wondering if you could use a hot soldering iron or something to smooth things out that way.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Місяць тому

      Yes you can but you should keep in mind that melting plastic will produce harmfull or even toxic fumes, depending on the type of plastic. So wear proper protection when doing this. But yes, it is absolutely possible and can yield great results!

    • @aarepelaa1142
      @aarepelaa1142 Місяць тому

      @@Craftknights3D yeah good to know it works, but melting more hazardous plastics would already be an issue to address with the printing process as well.

  • @Gorrbo
    @Gorrbo Місяць тому +1

    For the acetone method would this ruins prints with hinges?

  • @mewmew32
    @mewmew32 Рік тому +1

    Surprised to not see this in the comments already but "spatula" is not the correct translation of Spritz-Spachtel (that's a kitchen utensil). The nearest I can figure is "spray filler," but that's quite vague and doesn't resemble any product I've come across here in the US. Do you know what the main ingredients are? Is it a paint primer or epoxy based?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +2

      There are like 10 comments about that and I already answered all of them. The correct translation would be spray filler.

  • @RavenPhoenix696
    @RavenPhoenix696 Рік тому +2

    Could I put the acetone in a glass bowl inside the plastic container instead of pouring it in the bottom

    • @RavenPhoenix696
      @RavenPhoenix696 Рік тому

      The answer is yes if anyone is wondering. I use a glass bowl that had a plastic lid that I use to store it. There isn’t much waste.

  • @sootheme7218
    @sootheme7218 Рік тому +3

    How do you smooth Silk/multi color PLA? I don’t want to cover it with a primer and paint over it. I want to keep the color of the filament, but some parts of my prints are rough when I remove the tree supports.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +2

      You can smooth PLA with chemicals but I absolutely don't recommend that. Instead I recommend that you tune your slicer settings so that your supports can be removed cleaner.

  • @nikhil_khosla_
    @nikhil_khosla_ 2 дні тому

    loved u video, btw i love that pokoball, whats the layer height and the nozzle ??

  • @juliancottier3775
    @juliancottier3775 3 місяці тому

    Just curious to the acetone releasing from the plastic if submerged in water after

  • @ruibernardo-hm4ou
    @ruibernardo-hm4ou 10 місяців тому

    Does the acetone method work with PLA?

  • @sirnird9982
    @sirnird9982 Рік тому

    I never heard about the spray on spatula method and I think it’ll be perfect for minis even though acetone could be good though I print with PLA due to fumes that ABS produces when printing.

  • @sierraecho884
    @sierraecho884 Рік тому +1

    PU varnish. It will take some time til it´s cured but it´s not as toxic as UV resin is and it will get rid of layer lines pretty well, also you can paint right afterwards and apply it with a brush, I hate that sprayed shit, I don´t want to go outside or get some ventilation for inside.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      You are right. Varnish is also a good alternative. You just have to be careful that you don't apply too much at once, in my experience. Or you end up with dried drops on the surface of the model.

    • @sierraecho884
      @sierraecho884 Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D Yes this is true, however this goes for all surface applicants. The good thing is you can decide how heavy you want to go with the stuff.
      What I am interested in is "mod podge" OR (what it actually is) wood glue watered down and applied through a spray bottle. Not the kind of spray bottle with gas and pressure but the one you press down again and gain with your thumb, like a parfume bottle. Try that stuff out.

  • @mik3lang3lo
    @mik3lang3lo Рік тому

    I can't find the spatula/spachtel spray, what is it exactly? When I Google it German sites show up.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      There is a link in the description. Its Spray filler

  • @torinnbalasar6774
    @torinnbalasar6774 Рік тому +9

    Didn't realize acetone off-gassed that much...
    I recently got a resin printer, but have yet to set it up because of paranoia about poor ventilation, and haven't finalized my plans for ducting out a window yet. I'll have to remember that sanding trick once I'm up and running.

    • @jayson8118
      @jayson8118 Рік тому +1

      Depending on your resin printer ,your prints are going to be far more detailed and smoother than a filament printer. I am no expert but I am going on a model I made with a filament printer and then seeing a bust of the main Character from God of War made by a average priced Anycubic 4 K resin Printer. The detail was so superior to what a filament printer can do. Yes it needed painting but there wasn't much sanding needed unless a lot of support materials was used and stuck to the model too well. Anyhow this is the fun world of 3D Printing ; printing something and seeing how it comes out.

    • @SianaGearz
      @SianaGearz Рік тому +2

      @@jayson8118 I thought the fun was printing something, getting angry at yourself for not getting it right, and then repeating.

    • @drtaverner
      @drtaverner Рік тому

      I have reactions to VOCs and I'm pretty sure I'll need a ventilator and fume hood for a resin printer.

    • @GabeTetrault
      @GabeTetrault Рік тому

      @@drtaverner I've found that basic/standard resin doesn't have much off-gassing of VOCs. I have my Anycubic Mono 4K printer in my garage and, while I do smell resin, neither the wife or I find it very strong. I open the garage to air it out for 5-10 minutes and go back at it. The printer comes with a UV blocking cover, so the fumes don't waft around much. ABS type resin and some others (I guess?) are supposed to produce a lot more VOCs and should be in an enclosure with a venting solution (outdoor venting or a filter for indoors).

  • @diy_wizard
    @diy_wizard 4 місяці тому +1

    Danke, genau den spühspachtel habe ich auch und bin gerade dabei ihn zu benutzen ^^

  • @FangS-y6v
    @FangS-y6v 6 днів тому

    Anyone got any spray alternatives to spray on spatula because I can't find it anywhere online.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  6 днів тому

      I translated it wrong. It`s called spray filler.

    • @FangS-y6v
      @FangS-y6v 5 днів тому

      @@Craftknights3D ok cool so I can use any spray filler correct?

  • @lsg1Entertainment
    @lsg1Entertainment 5 місяців тому +1

    Can you paint after acetone smoothing?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  5 місяців тому

      Sure. But you should apply a plastic primer before you paint it. If you don´t apply a primer then the paint will not adhere properly to the plastic.

    • @lsg1Entertainment
      @lsg1Entertainment 5 місяців тому +1

      @@Craftknights3D I see, that would also be a way to dull the shine.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  5 місяців тому

      Exactly!

  • @teknicron1080
    @teknicron1080 Рік тому +7

    I'll add a few additional ways, and what you'll use depends on your material, and what you printed:
    Acetone polish: Great for acetone, but best done outside or in well ventilated location.
    Sanding: Slow method, really dusty, time consuming, but the end result looks better every grit level you increase (800-1000 for final sanding process).
    Palm/Detail Sander: Start with a medium grit (200-500) and finish off with high grit by hand.
    Card Scrapers: Really great for smoothing, removes shavings from plastic, and can finish off with fine grit for final touches (start with the larger scrapers, then down to small scrapers for texture and detailing).
    Acetone Slurry: Mixture of acetone and scrap ABS/PLA plastic bits dissolved. Fills in the lines, and adheres to the surface perfectly. Will need light sanding afterward as the dried surface is polish smooth and won't hold pain well.
    Resin: will need to mount your object on something, and paint resin onto surface. Need to mind how much you apply as it could complicate the final appearance.

  • @LightsFirstSon
    @LightsFirstSon Рік тому +1

    What is spray on spatula? Is there an something similar in the U.S.?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +1

      I think a better translation would be spray filler.

  • @leovonlion
    @leovonlion Рік тому +1

    What grit sandpaper is best to use?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +1

      Depends. 80 - 100 grit for rough sanding and anywhere from 150 to 400 for smooth sanding. Really depends on how smooth you want it to be.

    • @leovonlion
      @leovonlion Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D thank you!

  • @devUmbra
    @devUmbra Рік тому

    Where can i find the model of the pokeball print? Looks pretty good!

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      All links should be in the description.

    • @devUmbra
      @devUmbra Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D hmm, i cant see one for the models, only the materials

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      You are right. So sorry, I have updated the description. All links to the models used in the video should be there now.

  • @etyrnal
    @etyrnal Рік тому +1

    couldn't you use a cotton swab be used to smooth the surface?

  • @chanakya_neeti_1
    @chanakya_neeti_1 10 місяців тому

    What is this ABS, PLA, or PETG type of filament the fish one

  • @ryandavis4689
    @ryandavis4689 Рік тому +3

    ASA vapor polishes with acetone as well, and it's UV resistant. I think ASA is far superior to ABS, easier to print as well

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      Interesting. I didn't know that ASA reacts to acetone. Thanks for the Tip! And I agree. ASA is generally better than ABS.

  • @Luin71
    @Luin71 Рік тому

    Never tried it but heat from a heatgun or soldering iron?

  • @RichieTheTotodile
    @RichieTheTotodile Рік тому

    Do you have any tips for smoothing very small PLA models? I'm making model railway figures so they need to retain fine details.

    • @evad5630
      @evad5630 Рік тому +1

      I'd love to know that as well! As chemical smoothing with pla is only possible with more hazardous chemicals like chloroform, I don't really want to try that.with Sanding, sandblasting and stuff like filler or resin you will loose a lot of detail, also it's a lot of work - haven't found a good method for pla yet...

  • @jadabennett7095
    @jadabennett7095 Рік тому

    I got a crested gecko articulated print that is very scrappy, I need to know how to smooth it without getting rid of the bumps. And I don't know what to paint it with. Please help me.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      I think the best thing you can do is use a filler primer in a color that you like and apply that to the model in multiple thin coats.

  • @mszoomy
    @mszoomy Рік тому +8

    The problem with the acetone method is most people don't print with abs because it's a bit trickier and more expensive.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +1

      That is absolutely true. Although, ABS is cheaper than PLA in some countries.

    • @tommyt2077
      @tommyt2077 Місяць тому

      @@Craftknights3D does it work with petg to?

  • @sarahmarieartstudio10
    @sarahmarieartstudio10 9 місяців тому +1

    This is so helpful

  • @DeziFaux
    @DeziFaux Рік тому +1

    How do I get the file for that print?

  • @Thee_Lord_of_Darkness
    @Thee_Lord_of_Darkness Рік тому

    Thanks for the video, it was very informative, I just have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking? The Acetone how much detail loss do you have? and what would be the Scottish Equivalent of the Spatula Spray? thanks

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      The longer the Print is exposed to the Acetone the more it will dissolve and therefore smooth the surface. So usually the detail loss is not that bad. A more acurate translation of spatula spray would be spray on filler.

    • @Thee_Lord_of_Darkness
      @Thee_Lord_of_Darkness Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D Cheers

  • @DeepStateWackadoo
    @DeepStateWackadoo 11 місяців тому

    Does the acetone method work for PLA as well or only ABS?
    ABS is more expensive. its not viable for me.

  • @johnwatrous3058
    @johnwatrous3058 10 місяців тому

    How about sand blasting the PLA?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  10 місяців тому

      If you have the means to do so. But you might loose some fine details.

  • @therealjordanvo
    @therealjordanvo Рік тому

    the cc said you had some spray on spatula

  • @howtobewater
    @howtobewater 11 місяців тому

    Hi, I decided to make a 3D print of an anime figure, I'm torn between ABS and resin, which one is better for printing?
    And which one is easier to paint? What kind of color can be painted on them?
    Please help:,))

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  11 місяців тому +1

      Pla is generally the easiest filament to print with. After that, you can sand, prime, and Paint the figure. You can use any paint you like but I prefer acrylic paint for miniature painting.

  • @phreshxmetal
    @phreshxmetal Рік тому +2

    Great info on print smoothing, not so great spray painting technique 😆

  • @jordanarellano8058
    @jordanarellano8058 8 місяців тому

    What's stopping you from just using q dremel?

  • @waiser4604
    @waiser4604 Рік тому

    Does this work with sla prints

  • @HughGort
    @HughGort Рік тому +2

    I'm sure many people mentioned it, but this would've been better if you did these things to the SAME model. Melt the shark for 15 minutes, melt the shark for an hour, and the sand the shark to REALLY see the differences.

  • @ChoujiSempai
    @ChoujiSempai Рік тому

    What if we use the first technique with PLA?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +1

      PLA can not be smoothed with Acetone. It can only be smoothed by sanding it, by using a filler, by using Resin, or by using very aggressive chemicals (not recommended).

    • @ChoujiSempai
      @ChoujiSempai Рік тому

      @@Craftknights3D won’t resin still show the layers?

  • @ninjamontage2715
    @ninjamontage2715 Рік тому

    what is the model of your 3d printer?

  • @vladislavkhaustovich415
    @vladislavkhaustovich415 11 місяців тому

    Does the acetone approach work with PLA?

  • @ep8615
    @ep8615 Рік тому

    What type of sand paper did you use ? Or recommend

  • @jeandreterblanche418
    @jeandreterblanche418 Рік тому

    Will this work on nylon?

  • @SCHNIERElektrostatik
    @SCHNIERElektrostatik Рік тому

    Have you ever tried to flock your parts after printing? You will get a smoth velvet like surface.

  • @Thephysiquemechanic
    @Thephysiquemechanic 11 місяців тому

    Will this work with a resin print

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  11 місяців тому +1

      Sanding, priming, and painting, yes. But acetone will not affect resin prints.

  • @ChristopherPayneMUA
    @ChristopherPayneMUA Рік тому +1

    Could you just put a glass or metal cut of acetone into the bin rather than filling the bottom?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      Possible. It doesn`t take much to dissolve the plastic.

  • @strawman9410
    @strawman9410 Рік тому +1

    You could put tape over the parts you want to keep detailed while using acetone

  • @chilloutsweet2601
    @chilloutsweet2601 4 місяці тому

    Does this work for PLA

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  4 місяці тому

      Acetone does not work on PLA. You can use spray filler and sand the model to remove layer lines.

  • @javiernunez7840
    @javiernunez7840 Рік тому

    Only works with abs ?

  • @timmypayette6014
    @timmypayette6014 Рік тому

    Where's the file to that pokeball?!

  • @jackmortal
    @jackmortal Рік тому

    Can you only use ABS with acetone or can you use it on FDM?

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      FDM means "Fused Deposition modeling" and it is a type of manufacturing. It is not a plastic. And acetone will only smooth ABS

  • @taimoor722
    @taimoor722 Рік тому

    Is layering medical equipment with acetone ok ?? Like pill boxes or syringes or spoons for syrup

    • @jayson8118
      @jayson8118 Рік тому +2

      Sorry I just can't imagine it being a good or safe idea using acetone on something that will handle an item that will be consumed by a person . There is a filament that is specifically used as it's meant for food utensils ; not sure what it's called( you may already know it's name)
      If you haven't already done it I would google up as much info about using acetone and whether it leaves behind any residual residue! Maybe even ring the company who makes it but I would assume they will advise you to not put it on food utensils.

    • @doktabob328
      @doktabob328 Рік тому

      @@jayson8118 Lab grade acetone will completely evaporate.

  • @blueberryhaze3603
    @blueberryhaze3603 Рік тому

    That's nice to know it! Tnx a lot

  • @Richey24
    @Richey24 Рік тому

    What in the world is spray on spatula and where can i find it in america

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      I have answered that multiple times already. A better translation would have been "spray filler".

  • @stefanguiton
    @stefanguiton Рік тому +1

    Awesome video!

  • @smalltimer4370
    @smalltimer4370 Рік тому +3

    Thanks for a really great video - this was super helpful and very informative - excellent work!

  • @MrFlowe
    @MrFlowe Рік тому +2

    ❤very informative for me

  • @rsmorex
    @rsmorex Рік тому

    what about using fire? 😁

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +1

      A bit extreme but hey, if it works for you.

    • @rsmorex
      @rsmorex Рік тому +1

      @@Craftknights3D lol I can't afford a printer but I saw a video where a guy 3D printed a fantastic four Thing and couldn't get the supports out of the eyes so he hit it gently with a heat gun and it was able to break off like normal it even smoothed up the plastic a bit as a bonus. I remembered wrong and thought it was a torch lol

  • @KingInTheNorthLP
    @KingInTheNorthLP Рік тому +1

    Vielen Dank! :) Ich werde Ausschau nach der Sprühdose halten. Weiter so!

  • @shaunimcgarva329
    @shaunimcgarva329 10 місяців тому

    you can mix uv resin and baby powder too uncle jesse shows this and i do like it

  • @DanielleKelly-n2f
    @DanielleKelly-n2f Рік тому +1

    Awesome

  • @MerlosTheMad
    @MerlosTheMad Рік тому +1

    06:25 spray on spatula? what? lol

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      Spray filler would be a more acurate translation.

  • @RcWorldLive
    @RcWorldLive Рік тому

    its only for abs

  • @sebastianestevezcarvajal3008
    @sebastianestevezcarvajal3008 Рік тому +1

    One of the wing is nearly melted

  • @nazarjuna
    @nazarjuna 3 місяці тому +1

    When making cosplay, no one really cares about the small little details. Especially when it is part of a whole outfit. Keeping some layer lines and flaws make it look even more homemade than just perfectly molded parts

  • @moathsartworkshopvlog
    @moathsartworkshopvlog Рік тому

    Or you can use a resin printer instead

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      A Resin printer has its own disadvantages. Resin ist more expensive and a big resin printer capable of printing Cosplay armor will cost you thousands of Dollars. So resin printers aren`t an option for everyone.

  • @jubb1984
    @jubb1984 Рік тому

    Didint know about the polysmooth filaments, thanks for telling me about it! I will definitely try, sound very interesting =)

  • @derickkruger5680
    @derickkruger5680 4 місяці тому

    PETG?

  • @krich106
    @krich106 11 місяців тому

    I always assumed this was more due to the 3d printer and settings used. I don't own a 3d printer.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  11 місяців тому

      You will always see some layer lines. Even in resin prints (barely visible).

  • @MrBirdHd
    @MrBirdHd Рік тому

    What's wrong with layer lines

  • @Shojiki64
    @Shojiki64 5 місяців тому +1

    The plastic bin is important. Do not use a bathtub

  • @tysk5729
    @tysk5729 Рік тому

    You forgot method 3
    Get some sprayeble varnish
    Spray it dry it and done
    It deffenetly not as perfect as what you are doing but it pretty much gets the job done, gets it shiny and is only 3% off all the work you put in

  • @jamdva8176
    @jamdva8176 Рік тому +6

    You should consider setting the volume of your video higher, when generally your voice is about -18 db and sometimes goes to -12 db. It is too silent and most of the people would not consider watching, because they are lazy and don't have enough patience to turn volume up.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +3

      Thanks for the feedback. I`m still figuring things out and audio is one of the more difficult things to geht right.

  • @harunhebat6374
    @harunhebat6374 Рік тому

    Tq bro

  • @SpeerStudios
    @SpeerStudios Рік тому +1

    I tried this with a PLA print. Kept it in there for about an hour. Didn’t smooth anything out, just made it flimsy.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +3

      What method do you mean? PLA can't be smoothed with Acetone. This method only works with ABS. If you want to smooth PLA then the safest way is to use spray primer and sandpaper.

  • @tinayoga8844
    @tinayoga8844 Рік тому +5

    Spachtel is not an English term. I had no idea what you were using. Google translate wasn't much help. Spray on Filler will make more sense to the English only speakers.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +4

      At 6:31 I said that I use "Spray on Spatula". It's the literal translation. The better translation would have been "spray filler" or "spray putty", you are correct. But there are also links in the description to the items I used in this video.

    • @photo_n_art
      @photo_n_art 5 місяців тому

      Also known as Stucco-spray… you will never make everyone happy… gotta love the level of your application @tinayoga8844 🤦🏼‍♂️

  • @hf117j
    @hf117j Рік тому +2

    You missed a method. Resin coating. There's UV resin method, and there's a type of resin specifically for smoothing 3d prints. The 2nd one, you lose detail. But at the same time it's essentially prepare the resin by mixing it. Let it go through it's exothermic reaction in some tin foil. Then brush it over your print. Just thick enough to cover your layer lines. Keep brushing the model for drip control for about 20 minutes while the resin hardens. And as soon as it won't drip anymore, you're good. If you do it right, there should be little to no sanding left to do. No brush strokes or layer lines showing. Just don't expect to be able to slop it on and have it work. It's important to be there for drip control. This is a good method for prints you want to be strong. Like cosplay/paintball/airsoft helmets as the next thing to do is usually impregnating your print from the inside with another kind of resin or doing resin/fiberglass reinforcement on the inside. Or both. Keep in mind with brushed on resin you are likely to lose small details depending on your skill. The more skilled your brushwork. The less you can use to make it work. The less detail you'll lose.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому +3

      I mentioned Resin coating at the end. It is a good method but, as I mentioned in other comments, I personally don't like this method because of the toxic fumes that resin produces while it cures.

    • @phreshxmetal
      @phreshxmetal Рік тому

      You didn't finish the video...

    • @hf117j
      @hf117j Рік тому

      @@phreshxmetal Pretty sure I did finish the video. Might've spaced. That or wasn't sure if he meant 3d printer resin or stuff like x3d

    • @madlad1.
      @madlad1. Рік тому

      I dont wanna impregnate my prints 😖

  • @KruellNationGaming
    @KruellNationGaming Місяць тому

    This video is only a year old. If you are not printing ABS nearly resin smooth then your settings are off my friend. There is NO need to smooth prints this way even a year ago.

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  6 днів тому

      There are several reasons to smooth 3D prints still.

  • @PixelPoosher
    @PixelPoosher Рік тому

    Hold up, let me just 3prints a workshop.

  • @justthat69
    @justthat69 6 місяців тому

    Well, i have a lot of PP because i drank 2 gallons of water.

  • @OctalExpert
    @OctalExpert Рік тому

    this guy owns a pp bucket.....crazy world we live in.

  • @SoteroA
    @SoteroA 2 місяці тому

    Protect the details and then put in acetone

  • @ValkyrieForge1986
    @ValkyrieForge1986 Рік тому

    good video but smoothning a abs articulated model is just stupid 9 ot of 10 times it fuses the hinges together and then that model is dumpster ready

    • @Craftknights3D
      @Craftknights3D  Рік тому

      You can smooth articulate models Like that. You just have to bei careful and make sure that you don't expose the Print for too long.

  • @cowboy124aa3
    @cowboy124aa3 Рік тому

    there are soooo many other ways to smoothing prints i use UV Resin, platic epoxy, platic wood. but saying that there are only two ways is not a ways to start a video. I've had amazing results with epoxy putty, combined with UV resin on my Mando helmet with nearly flawless results as long as you know the proper way to do it.