I have the Nobsound version and love it... very clear class D type sound, great treble transients, and images quite nicely. A bit clinical & ruthlessly revealing, but can sound warm if your gear is too, eg. tubes. Great cheap little entry level amp, but you need a good power supply if you want full power.
I have to the Nobsound version and i dont know how about this video but the nobsound does not get hot and sounds very good. The nobsound i have is the 2x100 w version and i think is superior than this one. It has 2xTPA 3116D2 and swappable opamp.
Build up the heatsink using copper plates that fit so the heatsink touches the lid and use heat conductive silicone making sure it's touching. Now you'll notice the case getting hot and you can always attach a heatsink to the case or cut a hole and apply a larger heatsink.
I know this video is over a year old, but I just wanted to thank you, and thank you a TON. *ahem* Thanks a TON for this video, dude. Super helpful for me. Your thoroughness, attention to detail, and overall review quality are off the charts. You rock. Ily and have a nice life
Okay, so I got this amp, paired them with a 24v 5A power supply and speakers rated for 60W per channel, and the capacitors almost immediately exploded when I started trying to use the speakers. They weren't even cranked - they were on, like, 20%-25% on the amp's volume knob, tops. There was a ridiculously loud/scary POP noise that just about blew my eardrums out, and as I scrambled to unplug the thing from the wall - which took about 10-15 seconds because the plug was really stuck in there - I heard two or three more of those loud, distinct POP/CRACK sounds. After unplugging it, I opened it up to discover three of the capacitors were completely blown/exploded with a weird fuzzy/papery, almost organic-looking substance blooming out of the remains, and one weird cylindrical capacitor-looking silver thing (maybe one of the mini capacitors?) was rolling around inside the case completely detached from the PCB. I didn't look at it for very long, to be honest. There was a very distinct chemical odor/musk coming out of it, and a greenish liquid splattered everywhere, and a bit of a burnt smell as well, and I don't know how toxic those fumes/chemicals are so I just closed it and put it away as quickly as possible. Anyways, do you think this could have possibly damaged my speakers? I don't have another amp on hand to test them with, unfortunately :\
UPDATE: I contacted banggood customer support and they sent me a new one. The replacement blew up in exactly the same way as the first one. Used with a 24V 5A power supply on 6 ohm speakers rated for 60Wpc... Should have had no issues, but apparently this gutter garbage isn't capable of either taking in the voltage it claims to be capable of taking in nor can it handle putting out the wattage it claims to be capable of putting out. Opened it up and had a look inside - same story as the first one, capacitors popped. Definitely some trash Chinese knockoffs and not genuine Sanyo caps. Contacted their support again, they issued me a refund rather than sending me a third copy (which almost certainly would have just blown up in my face a third time). I used the money to buy an SMSL SA50 instead, have had no problems since. If you're reading this and thinking about purchasing this amp, do yourself a favor: Don't.
Are you sure the polarity of your power supply is correct? lol. I wouldn't run these on a 24 V supply, since the caps are 25 V rated Chinesium. You're better off using a 19 V laptop wart.
Yes, the polarity of the power supply is the standard positive in, negative out. And it works fine with the SMSL SA50, so clearly the low quality of the components used in the amp was the problem, not the power supply. Also, you literally ran this with a 24V supply in your video at 10:19, lol.
I have one of these amps, and it seems like for once, the Chinese have really tried to deliver a well-designed little amp. I ultimately put it aside because I found it a little bass-shy (maybe overdamped in the bass range causing it to sound bass-shy). I replaced the line of little panasonic caps with 2.2uF Nichicon Muse, and I got a nice open sound out of it. I ran mine with a KTEC 24V 5A power supply and it was quite happy. A drawback to the power switch configuration (just floating the 'disable' pin of the chip) is that the power supply caps are not disconnected from the power supply, and when you connect the power supply to the DC input, if that power supply is powered on, there is a bright spark as the caps suddenly draw current and charge up. And it's not the only chinese amp I've found that does that. I later set it aside for a DIY amp based on an ICEpower 50ASX2 module.
Im going to buy one, mod the case with a fan and use it! Thank you for the GREAT CONTENT! I love that you use terms that an engineer like myself can understand!
I put 40mm fans where i can on these, one has a large cpu heatsink 133g without the fan and it loves it - i am using a cheap dual tpa board from ali (xinyi ap100h) and couldn't be happier for $9 and ofc the $1 for the heatsink.
It seems you are expert in this Breeze Audio. Three days ago I bought the one with two TPA 1336 chips. I expected this should be better since this is the newer version. This morning I found out that the sound of left speaker already on while the right speaker still mute (I put my hear two inches in front of the speaker) while my left side speaker sound, 6 feet away, already can be heard. How to fix this imbalance sound? Please help. Thank you.
I own two of those Breeze Audio amps (with dual TPA3116 chipsets....100w x 2). They are really nice. I just need to know what is the max input power supply voltage to run it at. Currently, I am running 24v into it and it plays great. But, my question is: what is the "best" voltage to run this amp at for best power, keeping the heat down, and longevity? I am running 4-ohm loads. Thanks
FFcossag that’s the default power supply that usually comes with the amp. To get the full and max power from these mini amps you will need a 24 v 5 amp power supply with the correct ohms speakers to get the max power out of them.
I got a couple of these (different brand on eBay) and I can run them flat out into 4 Ohm speakers and it barely gets warm. I think most reviewers use resistors for testing which doesn't give good results as speaker impedance will change with frequency. I also notice a lack of bass response so I may change the input caps and see...
@@thanghophotos4770I made my own pre-amp in effect just with a little fixed bass boost not particularly difficult but does require soldering of surface mount components, also required a custom PCB layout and I'm equipped for that. For anyone not equipped to handle this there are plenty of nice single rail powered pre-amps available for peanuts on eBay and other similar sites and they have bass, treble and volume controls. If I have the time I will send/post a link later. Additionally, if your source signal is strong enough then a passive bass/treble pre-amp can also be used. These tend to be a little lossy hence the strong signal requirement.
Excellent comment, technically sound, still not "techie-driven", but "listener- and user-centered". I ordered one of those Breezes from AliExpress a week ago and can't wait to try it myself. Of course I had to subscribe to your channel ... :)
Awesome review ! I know it is a bit old, but i'm interested in buying a small amplifier such as this one to drive a pair of Technics speakers (6 ohms) on a desktop. Do you see any problem with the impedence, how about the hiss ? You said it wasn't good in the review and it's the main reason why I want to upgrade my current setup (panasonic SA Pm46 aka hissy as hell and lacks of power)
Hi, I'm considering using this to drive Sony ss-h650 , and they're rated at 6 ohms ,80 Watts .It would be ok and what Voltage/Ampere power is the the best choice? Thanks!
I may be insane, but I have been using one of these for years to power a pair of mission M71i and recently tried a Fosi Audio V3 and a bt20a pro with a view to replacing the breeze audio. To me the Breeze Audio amp sounds a lot better and bizarrely a lot more powerful
Interesting. Which exact model of breeze audio do you have? So you recommend it over the Fosi's? Is interesting to know the opinion of a user who used this amo for many years. Thanks
After all of these reviews, did you ever actually find a small amp you'd recommend? (I'm looking for something to drive a pair of existing bookshelf speakers, and it seems like all the mini-amps I've looked at aren't terribly good.)
Hi, I have a simple question. I want to buy an amp, and speakers separately and live happily ever after in hifi utopia. Separately because I don't want to spend a lot on brand sound systems. So, if you could point me in the right direction... thanks in advance. And thanks anyway for the great video.
I know this video is a bit old but Would wiring this amp to a pair of 4ohm speakers using a 19v 3.5A power brick be ok? I don't plan to run them at more than about middle volume.
I've read that a good way to lower the gain and therefore noise floor is to replace the volume control potentiometer rather than the resistors. People often recommend using a 10k logarithmic pot. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of this approach please?
Cheap potentiometers often have a scratching noise when you turn them. Replacing the potentiometer would help in that case, but not against the constant background hiss (with some exceptions due to thermal noise, but that's not important here). I'm sure someone has just been confused.
Hi, very nice video! what do you think about 2019 Breeze Audio Music Box A1 Referrence To Marantz HDAM Classic Circuit HiFi 2. I t more expensive, any good? thanks
Hello, first of all thank you for so detailed review, i'm really impressed of your work, so i bought this amp recently and 24v 4A adapter for it. and i have two questions: 1. is it possible to connect 6Om speaker in it? 2. Is it possible to improve its performance over 10kHz somehow? Thank you in advance
Those speakers should work just fine with it. As far as the high frequency distortion issue, I couldn't say; I haven't played with it. It's likely to be a difficult case to solve, though.
@@grunger77 the nob sound one may have better other circuitry that reduces or eliminates this concern? at a guess as this review is for one amp that used that chip, there are other amps that also use this chip but may have better additional components/larger caps etc. for example the one im getting only has a small metal cap close to the heatsink instead of a line of poly caps. they also seem to have 2 larger caps. not as large as in my class d linn amplifier though.. but this is for chill setup so power isnt a issue. fwiw im trying the new nobsound 2021 iliteration of the ns-14 without bt. lookin foward to seeing whats under the hood as its my first mini amp and there where no pics of the board on that listing.
I'm considering the bluetooth equipped 100Wx2 (2xTPA3116) version of this for use in an old vehicle that doesn't have a DIN size opening for a modern head unit. Would one of these class D TPA3116 style amplifiers perform well enough at vehicle voltage ~12-14V connected to 2x 4ohm 6x9" speakers? Vehicle is a leaf sprung 4x4 so not looking for audiophile quality.
The fosi audio seems to be part of this whole Chinese mini amp wave , however, Amazon states that it's inner workings is made by Texas Instruments. I do not trust "fosi audio" nor any new unknown Chinese generic brand, but I do trust Texas Instruments. Any opinions on that regard? Im higly inclined to get an SMLS amp (I know it's Chinese too, but with better reputation), but these generic amps do pack a punch in watts. Any suggestions? I'm looking for something in between 50 and 100 Watts per Channel and under 100 dollars.
Could the small Panasonic copies be moved to the front of the amp (extended leads) and away from the heat sink? That would make a 4ohm load more doable right?
I have 2 Sony Speakers 100W peak max each, do you think a 12V5A will be enough? Also, you refer to 19v and 24v, but you never said anything about the current. How much of A should a 19v or 24v have for this kind of amplifier? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm considering using this to drive Dayton B652's, and they're rated at 4 ohms I think. Would you say the amp would get damaged due to overheating, or would the speakers be affected adversely in any way? Thanks..
What about speaker protection in this little amps, i know that the chip has build in protection but i don't see that even over temperature protection works.
Привет, очень интересно, посмотрите и мою версию обзора на этот усилитель. И как он раскачивает акустику Dynacord MX15: ua-cam.com/video/5P0f7miGs14/v-deo.html Hello see also my subjective Russian-language review of the same amp. And performance testing with Dynacord MX15 loudspeakers: ua-cam.com/video/5P0f7miGs14/v-deo.html
+Hene193 I don't really think so, the capacitors serve their purpose. The thermal issues, and the physical placement of the small 1 µF electrolytics are the biggest design flaw in this amplifier - not the capacitors themselves.
+FFcossag How about moving the Caps to a better place all together ?. Or maybe better yet, putting vent's in the case. The Chinese do seem to love cooking part's :) Thank you for another well done video. All my best from the States. Bobby
***** As Hene pointed out, it won't improve the sound quality. You generally want those small caps to be close to the chip, so there technically isn't much wrong with the placement. I think the datasheet calls for ceramics, so if anything, that's what one would replace the 1 µF caps with. As for drilling holes in the case, it might help, but it might be difficult to actually generate any kind of useful convection since the board covers the entire bottom of the case.
I see i am actually using a 19v adapter. It is bit of a brick. I've used the amp for the last 6 months and it has been great. I guess i will try a 12v adapter and lower my travel weight.
i received the box and a bit annoyed about the on/off switch which leaves the pcb powered on all the time. Should be not a big problem to connect it to the voltage input jack right? Wonder if this will give any "plop" on speaker when switching on.
There's not much downside to using the switch in its standard issue; it puts the amplifier IC to sleep, and the only current consumed is that of the LED.
xrated Mine does not consume anywhere near 3 W when off. If you're measuring that with a wall outlet meter, the VAST majority of that power is going to be losses in the PSU. My amplifier only draws 10-30 mA at 24 V when powered off, which is less than 1 W.
Thanks for the reply. How about the new version using dual-chip TPA3116 with rated power of 100w per channel? Can i still use the speakers without blowing them by dropping the voltage to maybe 12 or 15v? Thanks!
Less voltage means less power. 16 ohm means you want a lot of voltage or it'll be really quiet. THe power is limited by your input voltage, read up on Ohm's law.
can i use a 90 wat 8 ohm bass speaker and a max 60 wat twitter on this amp to its full power... i am very lost when it comes to this kind of a thing so please help ...
FFcossag thanks for that I am considering buying a small amplifier for Camping purposes i have 2 very quality speakers and this is the spec (os-10 niles speakers) Recommended Amplifier Power: Five to one hundred watts per channel Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms Frequency Response: 65 Hz to 21kHz, plus or minus 3 dB (on axis) Sensitivity: 89 decibels for 1.83 volts of Pink Noise, measured at 1 meter on axis Is this amp good for me? if you recommend something else ?? ( portable ) let me know appreciate your help!
adir abelhack Sorry, I make these videos in order to help you choose for yourself. If I were to just tell everyone what to get, I'd be defeating my own purpose.
I would add a copper spacer between IC and case, and maybe even a heatsink straight on the top of amp. With proper heatsink it will look (and stay with 4ohm load) really cool, I guess
FFcossag The high power it delivers in relation to its affordable price, the lack of detailed information you can find about it on the internet (except for the data sheet), its low-distortion truepath hd that I still don't get what it really is, the difference it makes to make it work with a 19v power supply vs 24v vs 32v vs 36v etc.. (sorry for my bad english)
It looks like a pretty standard, albeit high grade class D chip to me, most of the datasheet seems to be marketing wank. Do you have a specific module in mind, that you'd like to see tested?
FFcossag Ok, I'm no expert, therefore this is probably the reason why it's intriguing to me and not to you. Specifically, I'm thinking about buying the Drok tpa5613 2.1 amplifier. 2*75w + 150w (300w total measured at a 35v voltage). It looks very similar to breeze audio typical amplifiers. No aux, no digital connections, no bluetooth, just 1rca. Thanks for your answers anyway and keep up your good and detailed work.
i tough the higher amps will be an issue -- btw i highly recommend this wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Upgrade-Dual-Channel-Audio-Stereo_60564735498.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.lZ3n8Q
FFcossag maybe you can inprove them? I got one of them as a DIY kit and it sounds quite ok, but got some hissing going on, so i hoped you would find a way to improve them ;)
I can imagine a chinese employee trying to differ between an A and an R, much like us westerners trying to make sense of the russian or greek alphabet!
No, ALL amplifier modules are specified at their 10% distortion, which is absolutely unfortunate because it's an entirely useless figure, but it's a tradition that goes back to 60ies or earlier, so we have to live with that. What you really want to know is how far below that 10% value you need to go to reach a distortion plateau, and this amplifier does reach 0.3% and lower.
hi, would you do a similar test with the successor of 3116, the TDA7498 ? I just bought one because I thought my 3116 was awesome and the TDA7498 is meant to have double the power. 29 usd for the TDA7498 2.1 on aliexpress
The TDA7498 is not the "successor" of the TPA3116, it's just a competitor's chip. If you have a link to where I can get one of those modules, I might check it out. Performance is tied more to the implementation of the chip than the chip itself.
+FFcossag just type TDA7498 2.1 in aliexpress it's the blue one that claims 400 watt. 200 + 100 + 100 I just said it was the successor because one of the sellers told me it was.
+FFcossag haha damn! Anyway, if you could make a video on how far below 400 watt it is, that would be amazing. I have 4 ohm speakers that I will using with it, with which I have used at full blast, for entire nights, with my 3116, with a 12 volt battery and I had no over heating issues. Although i have a different circuit board to thr ones you have. Now I have just bought a 24 volt battery and the TDA7498 with which I feel like I might have issues after watching your video.
+FFcossag i got a bluetooth 4.0 module that might interest you too. It comes with an app for Android and iPhone that allows you to change frequency's on the radio, and the equaliser so that you can tune your portable speaker. Only 11 dollars!
Not many people knows what you're talking about. I will tell you the secret make that thing play, people want to know if it sounds good or bad, that's the secret
It's nearly impossible for it to be a clone IC. The world simply doesn't need THAT many no-name almost-high-quality amplifier boards to justify the immense effort of copying this modern and nontrivial IC, when much cheaper 12V and even 24V ICs are available like PAM8100, which is sufficient for nearly all non-HiFi use-cases. Reject? Possible. More likely though: you're supposed to actually cool the IC! A tiny heatsink in stale air, no provision for bottom side cooling, now how much good is that doing you?
I agree. I was wondering about the knock-off, but TI-chips aren't *that* expensive for you to warrant any copying. They're less than 2 euro per piece from Mouser Electronics and other reputable sources. But I've noticed that even though a lot of the amp chips support up to 24v, the quiescent current skyrockets if you up the voltage from 12 to 24v. So that's in addition to the load you're driving. Using 4 ohm speakers with 12 volts might actually end up giving better results.
found some interesting stuff, would be interesting to see if its worth the fuzz on a TPA3116: hifiduino.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/dual-mono-tpa3122d2-amp/ "Shielded inductors will also help reduce distortion and EMI, minimizing crosstalk in the process." "Put high quality film caps on LIN, RIN, and BYPASS (C1, C2, C14). This will be the biggest factor in improving sound quality." "For more bass, replace the C7/C8 and C10/C11 pairs with a 2200 uF (8 ohm speaker) or 4700 uF (4 ohm speaker)"
Those "mods" sound like typical audiophile bullshit. Note that that page is about a TPA3122, though, which seems to be an entirely different chipset to the 3116.
now this is what I call a review, thank you
You are most welcome.
I have the Nobsound version and love it... very clear class D type sound, great treble transients, and images quite nicely. A bit clinical & ruthlessly revealing, but can sound warm if your gear is too, eg. tubes. Great cheap little entry level amp, but you need a good power supply if you want full power.
I have to the Nobsound version and i dont know how about this video but the nobsound does not get hot and sounds very good. The nobsound i have is the 2x100 w version and i think is superior than this one. It has 2xTPA 3116D2 and swappable opamp.
Build up the heatsink using copper plates that fit so the heatsink touches the lid and use heat conductive silicone making sure it's touching. Now you'll notice the case getting hot and you can always attach a heatsink to the case or cut a hole and apply a larger heatsink.
yes i wondered why they dont use the casing as a extention to the heatsink, probably saving dolla
Such a quality review. Thanks and congrats!
I know this video is over a year old, but I just wanted to thank you, and thank you a TON.
*ahem*
Thanks a TON for this video, dude. Super helpful for me. Your thoroughness, attention to detail, and overall review quality are off the charts. You rock. Ily and have a nice life
Glad to be of service.
Okay, so I got this amp, paired them with a 24v 5A power supply and speakers rated for 60W per channel, and the capacitors almost immediately exploded when I started trying to use the speakers. They weren't even cranked - they were on, like, 20%-25% on the amp's volume knob, tops. There was a ridiculously loud/scary POP noise that just about blew my eardrums out, and as I scrambled to unplug the thing from the wall - which took about 10-15 seconds because the plug was really stuck in there - I heard two or three more of those loud, distinct POP/CRACK sounds. After unplugging it, I opened it up to discover three of the capacitors were completely blown/exploded with a weird fuzzy/papery, almost organic-looking substance blooming out of the remains, and one weird cylindrical capacitor-looking silver thing (maybe one of the mini capacitors?) was rolling around inside the case completely detached from the PCB. I didn't look at it for very long, to be honest. There was a very distinct chemical odor/musk coming out of it, and a greenish liquid splattered everywhere, and a bit of a burnt smell as well, and I don't know how toxic those fumes/chemicals are so I just closed it and put it away as quickly as possible.
Anyways, do you think this could have possibly damaged my speakers? I don't have another amp on hand to test them with, unfortunately :\
UPDATE: I contacted banggood customer support and they sent me a new one. The replacement blew up in exactly the same way as the first one. Used with a 24V 5A power supply on 6 ohm speakers rated for 60Wpc... Should have had no issues, but apparently this gutter garbage isn't capable of either taking in the voltage it claims to be capable of taking in nor can it handle putting out the wattage it claims to be capable of putting out. Opened it up and had a look inside - same story as the first one, capacitors popped. Definitely some trash Chinese knockoffs and not genuine Sanyo caps. Contacted their support again, they issued me a refund rather than sending me a third copy (which almost certainly would have just blown up in my face a third time). I used the money to buy an SMSL SA50 instead, have had no problems since. If you're reading this and thinking about purchasing this amp, do yourself a favor: Don't.
Are you sure the polarity of your power supply is correct? lol. I wouldn't run these on a 24 V supply, since the caps are 25 V rated Chinesium. You're better off using a 19 V laptop wart.
Yes, the polarity of the power supply is the standard positive in, negative out. And it works fine with the SMSL SA50, so clearly the low quality of the components used in the amp was the problem, not the power supply. Also, you literally ran this with a 24V supply in your video at 10:19, lol.
A great review the guy knows what he's talking about refreshing for a change
I have one of these amps, and it seems like for once, the Chinese have really tried to deliver a well-designed little amp. I ultimately put it aside because I found it a little bass-shy (maybe overdamped in the bass range causing it to sound bass-shy). I replaced the line of little panasonic caps with 2.2uF Nichicon Muse, and I got a nice open sound out of it. I ran mine with a KTEC 24V 5A power supply and it was quite happy. A drawback to the power switch configuration (just floating the 'disable' pin of the chip) is that the power supply caps are not disconnected from the power supply, and when you connect the power supply to the DC input, if that power supply is powered on, there is a bright spark as the caps suddenly draw current and charge up. And it's not the only chinese amp I've found that does that. I later set it aside for a DIY amp based on an ICEpower 50ASX2 module.
Great to see measurements and comparison comments.
I wish every reviewer could be this knowledgeable
Im going to buy one, mod the case with a fan and use it! Thank you for the GREAT CONTENT! I love that you use terms that an engineer like myself can understand!
I put 40mm fans where i can on these, one has a large cpu heatsink 133g without the fan and it loves it - i am using a cheap dual tpa board from ali (xinyi ap100h) and couldn't be happier for $9 and ofc the $1 for the heatsink.
Awesome video - would be pretty easy to couple the back of the board to the case with some thermal pads - should help at least a tiny bit
Dude Ian learning so much from you. Thank you
Glad to hear it.
It seems you are expert in this Breeze Audio. Three days ago I bought the one with two TPA 1336 chips. I expected this should be better since this is the newer version. This morning I found out that the sound of left speaker already on while the right speaker still mute (I put my hear two inches in front of the speaker) while my left side speaker sound, 6 feet away, already can be heard. How to fix this imbalance sound? Please help. Thank you.
excellent review
I own two of those Breeze Audio amps (with dual TPA3116 chipsets....100w x 2). They are really nice. I just need to know what is the max input power supply voltage to run it at. Currently, I am running 24v into it and it plays great. But, my question is: what is the "best" voltage to run this amp at for best power, keeping the heat down, and longevity? I am running 4-ohm loads. Thanks
The TPA3116 likes 19 V laptop power adapters.
FFcossag that’s the default power supply that usually comes with the amp. To get the full and max power from these mini amps you will need a 24 v 5 amp power supply with the correct ohms speakers to get the max power out of them.
top notch review!! I wish you to have the success you deserve
I have the same with NE5532P opamps ...powering my infinity bookshelves for more than a year now.
11:45 - power increases with square of the supply voltage, not linearly.
That is correct. What I meant to convey was that output power directly relates to input voltage.
Understood. Thanks.
I got a couple of these (different brand on eBay) and I can run them flat out into 4 Ohm speakers and it barely gets warm. I think most reviewers use resistors for testing which doesn't give good results as speaker impedance will change with frequency. I also notice a lack of bass response so I may change the input caps and see...
Did you fix the lack of bass of this amp?
@@thanghophotos4770 Yes, I made a bass booster with a NE5532 with frequency selective gain. I did this rather than alter the module any.
@@davidwoodbridge862 I understand that you add NE5532 to this amp to boost bass with a bass treble tuning button?
@@thanghophotos4770I made my own pre-amp in effect just with a little fixed bass boost not particularly difficult but does require soldering of surface mount components, also required a custom PCB layout and I'm equipped for that. For anyone not equipped to handle this there are plenty of nice single rail powered pre-amps available for peanuts on eBay and other similar sites and they have bass, treble and volume controls. If I have the time I will send/post a link later. Additionally, if your source signal is strong enough then a passive bass/treble pre-amp can also be used. These tend to be a little lossy hence the strong signal requirement.
Hi . Would you consider replacing the chip with a genuine item and comparing the test results ?
+Steve Smith Hm, that's actually a pretty cool idea, I'm going to have to look into where to get my hands on a real chip.
Amazing review. How would it handle 6 ohm speakers do you think?
Just fine.
my 90's SONY home stereo puts out 75 watts per channel and 100 watts on the sub. It's a beast.
But your sony is 10x the size and weight 😂😂😂👎
Excellent comment, technically sound, still not "techie-driven", but "listener- and user-centered". I ordered one of those Breezes from AliExpress a week ago and can't wait to try it myself. Of course I had to subscribe to your channel ... :)
Still very happy with my Breeze amp. The test was spot on. Thank you!
did the dual TPA3116 also had such high distortion >10khz ?
Awesome review ! I know it is a bit old, but i'm interested in buying a small amplifier such as this one to drive a pair of Technics speakers (6 ohms) on a desktop. Do you see any problem with the impedence, how about the hiss ? You said it wasn't good in the review and it's the main reason why I want to upgrade my current setup (panasonic SA Pm46 aka hissy as hell and lacks of power)
Hi, I'm considering using this to drive Sony ss-h650 , and they're rated at 6 ohms ,80 Watts .It would be ok and what Voltage/Ampere power is the the best choice? Thanks!
A 19 V laptop PSU is fine.
I may be insane, but I have been using one of these for years to power a pair of mission M71i and recently tried a Fosi Audio V3 and a bt20a pro with a view to replacing the breeze audio. To me the Breeze Audio amp sounds a lot better and bizarrely a lot more powerful
Interesting. Which exact model of breeze audio do you have? So you recommend it over the Fosi's? Is interesting to know the opinion of a user who used this amo for many years. Thanks
@@francohic TPA3116
Awesome review! Thanks!
After all of these reviews, did you ever actually find a small amp you'd recommend? (I'm looking for something to drive a pair of existing bookshelf speakers, and it seems like all the mini-amps I've looked at aren't terribly good.)
I don't like making recommendations - choose for yourself.
Thank you for the thorough review, is there a chance to review Aiyima A03?
Hi, I have a simple question. I want to buy an amp, and speakers separately and live happily ever after in hifi utopia. Separately because I don't want to spend a lot on brand sound systems. So, if you could point me in the right direction... thanks in advance. And thanks anyway for the great video.
I know this video is a bit old but Would wiring this amp to a pair of 4ohm speakers using a 19v 3.5A power brick be ok? I don't plan to run them at more than about middle volume.
I've read that a good way to lower the gain and therefore noise floor is to replace the volume control potentiometer rather than the resistors. People often recommend using a 10k logarithmic pot. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of this approach please?
That does not usually change the noise floor.
@@FFcossag Thanks mate. Conflicting advice- that must be the internet lol
Cheap potentiometers often have a scratching noise when you turn them. Replacing the potentiometer would help in that case, but not against the constant background hiss (with some exceptions due to thermal noise, but that's not important here). I'm sure someone has just been confused.
Hi, very nice video! what do you think about 2019 Breeze Audio Music Box A1 Referrence To Marantz HDAM Classic Circuit HiFi 2. I t more expensive, any good? thanks
Can I connect it to the output of my focusrite scarlett 2i4? To amplify my speakers pasives
Hello, first of all thank you for so detailed review, i'm really impressed of your work, so i bought this amp recently and 24v 4A adapter for it. and i have two questions: 1. is it possible to connect 6Om speaker in it? 2. Is it possible to improve its performance over 10kHz somehow? Thank you in advance
Those speakers should work just fine with it. As far as the high frequency distortion issue, I couldn't say; I haven't played with it. It's likely to be a difficult case to solve, though.
Thank you! I'll tell you the result)
@@grunger77 the nob sound one may have better other circuitry that reduces or eliminates this concern?
at a guess as this review is for one amp that used that chip, there are other amps that also use this chip but may have better additional components/larger caps etc. for example the one im getting only has a small metal cap close to the heatsink instead of a line of poly caps. they also seem to have 2 larger caps. not as large as in my class d linn amplifier though.. but this is for chill setup so power isnt a issue.
fwiw im trying the new nobsound 2021 iliteration of the ns-14 without bt. lookin foward to seeing whats under the hood as its my first mini amp and there where no pics of the board on that listing.
I'm considering the bluetooth equipped 100Wx2 (2xTPA3116) version of this for use in an old vehicle that doesn't have a DIN size opening for a modern head unit.
Would one of these class D TPA3116 style amplifiers perform well enough at vehicle voltage ~12-14V connected to 2x 4ohm 6x9" speakers? Vehicle is a leaf sprung 4x4 so not looking for audiophile quality.
At 12 V they give you as much sound as a bog standard head unit. About 10 W/channel
The fosi audio seems to be part of this whole Chinese mini amp wave , however, Amazon states that it's inner workings is made by Texas Instruments. I do not trust "fosi audio" nor any new unknown Chinese generic brand, but I do trust Texas Instruments.
Any opinions on that regard?
Im higly inclined to get an SMLS amp (I know it's Chinese too, but with better reputation), but these generic amps do pack a punch in watts.
Any suggestions? I'm looking for something in between 50 and 100 Watts per Channel and under 100 dollars.
Could the small Panasonic copies be moved to the front of the amp (extended leads) and away from the heat sink? That would make a 4ohm load more doable right?
Wouldn't make a difference.
I have 2 Sony Speakers 100W peak max each, do you think a 12V5A will be enough? Also, you refer to 19v and 24v, but you never said anything about the current. How much of A should a 19v or 24v have for this kind of amplifier? Thanks in advance.
Laptop power bricks work fine.
12v or 24v brick? I have both from old laptops.
These run fine up to about 24 V, but they're built for 19 V.
So, that means i can max out the amperage up to 5a 7a without damading the amp as long as i keep in the supported voltage?
yep.
Hi, I'm considering using this to drive Dayton B652's, and they're rated at 4 ohms I think. Would you say the amp would get damaged due to overheating, or would the speakers be affected adversely in any way? Thanks..
It would probably work fine as long as you don't push it extremely loud or long periods at a time.
Very, very well done.
What class D up to 15W do you guys think currently has the best quality sound?
Nobsound 2x100 W with swappable opamp.
@@Morgooooo What Nobsound model # has that swappable opamp ?
What about speaker protection in this little amps, i know that the chip has build in protection but i don't see that even over temperature protection works.
Привет, очень интересно, посмотрите и мою версию обзора на этот усилитель. И как он раскачивает акустику Dynacord MX15: ua-cam.com/video/5P0f7miGs14/v-deo.html
Hello see also my subjective Russian-language review of the same amp. And performance testing with Dynacord MX15 loudspeakers: ua-cam.com/video/5P0f7miGs14/v-deo.html
It'd be nice if you posted an English explanation of what that link is about (seemingly a Russian-language review of the same amp).
Ok
Thanks for these videos. Will I be able to use 4 ohm, 20 W speakers with this amp? I saw the pdf in the description and it didn't look promising..
It's fine as long as you don't play it really loud for long periods of time.
did you also test the other dual board with the 3 big caps? wonder which one is better.
The board with 3 caps is inferior to the one with one cap. I think the 3-cap thing is an earlier revision that's mostly identical but not as refined.
I wonder if it would be worth it to change the capacitors to better ones and then improving the cooling?
+Hene193 I don't really think so, the capacitors serve their purpose. The thermal issues, and the physical placement of the small 1 µF electrolytics are the biggest design flaw in this amplifier - not the capacitors themselves.
+FFcossag How about moving the Caps to a better place all together ?. Or maybe better yet, putting vent's in the case. The Chinese do seem to love cooking part's :) Thank you for another well done video.
All my best from the States.
Bobby
***** The cooling or moving the caps wont change the sound to better. It only allow longer life for the device but it costs only 20€
***** As Hene pointed out, it won't improve the sound quality. You generally want those small caps to be close to the chip, so there technically isn't much wrong with the placement. I think the datasheet calls for ceramics, so if anything, that's what one would replace the 1 µF caps with. As for drilling holes in the case, it might help, but it might be difficult to actually generate any kind of useful convection since the board covers the entire bottom of the case.
+Hene193 Thank you for the reply. making things last longer was my thought. Guess I am just old school :)
hi
do you know which part of this amp that will blown up first when too much input applied -CLLIPING
let me know ,,,
lower the gain to 26dB, these amp will produce great sound！！
If i use a 12v adapter vs the 36v adapter will the sound quality be less or just the volume? I need it for traveling so i want less weight.
You just lose volume. And a 36 V adapter would explode it.
I see i am actually using a 19v adapter. It is bit of a brick. I've used the amp for the last 6 months and it has been great. I guess i will try a 12v adapter and lower my travel weight.
i received the box and a bit annoyed about the on/off switch which leaves the pcb powered on all the time. Should be not a big problem to connect it to the voltage input jack right? Wonder if this will give any "plop" on speaker when switching on.
There's not much downside to using the switch in its standard issue; it puts the amplifier IC to sleep, and the only current consumed is that of the LED.
faster aging of parts? consumes 3w off/3.2w on, more concerned about that cheap external psu
xrated Mine does not consume anywhere near 3 W when off. If you're measuring that with a wall outlet meter, the VAST majority of that power is going to be losses in the PSU. My amplifier only draws 10-30 mA at 24 V when powered off, which is less than 1 W.
need to source a better psu from the bin. btw. on the rear it says "sperkers" lol
Thanks Beaker!
Pure gold :)
hey FFcossag this amp will play good with a pair of dayton's b652's?
in 19v 3a
It's fine.
Can I use this with speakers rated at 16ohm and 60watts? What Voltage/Ampere power is the the best choice? Thanks!
It'll work fine, use a 19V wart.
Thanks for the reply. How about the new version using dual-chip TPA3116 with rated power of 100w per channel? Can i still use the speakers without blowing them by dropping the voltage to maybe 12 or 15v? Thanks!
Less voltage means less power. 16 ohm means you want a lot of voltage or it'll be really quiet. THe power is limited by your input voltage, read up on Ohm's law.
can i use a 90 wat 8 ohm bass speaker and a max 60 wat twitter on this amp to its full power... i am very lost when it comes to this kind of a thing so please help ...
It's fine.
FFcossag thanks for that
I am considering buying a small amplifier for Camping purposes i have 2 very quality speakers and this is the spec (os-10 niles speakers)
Recommended Amplifier Power:
Five to one hundred watts per channel
Nominal Impedance:
8 Ohms
Frequency Response:
65 Hz to 21kHz, plus or minus 3 dB (on axis)
Sensitivity:
89 decibels for 1.83 volts of Pink Noise, measured at 1 meter on axis
Is this amp good for me?
if you recommend something else ??
( portable ) let me know
appreciate your help!
It's fine.
+FFcossag just fine?
adir abelhack
I can't say much more than I did in the video.
+FFcossag il be happy to much more detail answer from you..
adir abelhack
Sorry, I make these videos in order to help you choose for yourself. If I were to just tell everyone what to get, I'd be defeating my own purpose.
Would it be worth putting a small quiet fan in the case?
I would not say so. Perhaps drilling some holes.
I would add a copper spacer between IC and case, and maybe even a heatsink straight on the top of amp. With proper heatsink it will look (and stay with 4ohm load) really cool, I guess
im building (assembling) my own from a fully assembled board $7
Can it run accoustimas series 5? Its 2.1
how to upgrade for better sound.
Hi, could you by chance do the same review of the tas5613 chipset? It's a very intriguing audio chip..
What's intriguing about it?
FFcossag The high power it delivers in relation to its affordable price, the lack of detailed information you can find about it on the internet (except for the data sheet), its low-distortion truepath hd that I still don't get what it really is, the difference it makes to make it work with a 19v power supply vs 24v vs 32v vs 36v etc.. (sorry for my bad english)
It looks like a pretty standard, albeit high grade class D chip to me, most of the datasheet seems to be marketing wank. Do you have a specific module in mind, that you'd like to see tested?
FFcossag Ok, I'm no expert, therefore this is probably the reason why it's intriguing to me and not to you. Specifically, I'm thinking about buying the Drok tpa5613 2.1 amplifier. 2*75w + 150w (300w total measured at a 35v voltage). It looks very similar to breeze audio typical amplifiers. No aux, no digital connections, no bluetooth, just 1rca. Thanks for your answers anyway and keep up your good and detailed work.
could u use a 24volts 20 AMPS power supply with this? haw dose the amps affect it?
24 V is a bit too much for this amp, but it'll likely be fine.
i tough the higher amps will be an issue -- btw i highly recommend this wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Upgrade-Dual-Channel-Audio-Stereo_60564735498.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.lZ3n8Q
Can you try one of those "headphone tube amps" from china? They are only 10-15$ on aliexpress.
I might, but they're so trashy that there's almost no fun to it in pointing out the trashiness.
FFcossag maybe you can inprove them? I got one of them as a DIY kit and it sounds quite ok, but got some hissing going on, so i hoped you would find a way to improve them ;)
Don't buy a trashy one look at the little dot range.
0:48 Better make sure to plug in the sperkers.
This can be used with preamp guitar rack???
Sure.
Can I use this with a 20V 6.7A laptop adapter?
Sure.
I get electic shock coming from the audio cable output.
Anyone know how to fix it?
Your power supply is not grounded, it's normal and not dangerous (unless it's a shitty Chinese PSU).
no heat, jazz, classic.. good.
performance pdf can't access
+業餘卡屁 Oh dear, I've fixed it now.
Ermahgerd SPERKERS!
+Mark Furneaux I'm sorry, I don't speak American. ;)
+Mark Furneaux SPERKERS!!
+Mark Furneaux 'Sperger's?
It says "SPERKERS" on the back of the metal box
I can imagine a chinese employee trying to differ between an A and an R, much like us westerners trying to make sense of the russian or greek alphabet!
The 10 caps should be rated @ 35v
the review have 35v caps
👍
The value that i hate the most, is the 10% distorsion, that mean it is not high fidelity.
No, ALL amplifier modules are specified at their 10% distortion, which is absolutely unfortunate because it's an entirely useless figure, but it's a tradition that goes back to 60ies or earlier, so we have to live with that. What you really want to know is how far below that 10% value you need to go to reach a distortion plateau, and this amplifier does reach 0.3% and lower.
hi, would you do a similar test with the successor of 3116, the TDA7498 ? I just bought one because I thought my 3116 was awesome and the TDA7498 is meant to have double the power. 29 usd for the TDA7498 2.1 on aliexpress
The TDA7498 is not the "successor" of the TPA3116, it's just a competitor's chip. If you have a link to where I can get one of those modules, I might check it out. Performance is tied more to the implementation of the chip than the chip itself.
+FFcossag just type TDA7498 2.1 in aliexpress it's the blue one that claims 400 watt. 200 + 100 + 100 I just said it was the successor because one of the sellers told me it was.
Phil Drums
He lied, lol.
+FFcossag haha damn! Anyway, if you could make a video on how far below 400 watt it is, that would be amazing. I have 4 ohm speakers that I will using with it, with which I have used at full blast, for entire nights, with my 3116, with a 12 volt battery and I had no over heating issues. Although i have a different circuit board to thr ones you have. Now I have just bought a 24 volt battery and the TDA7498 with which I feel like I might have issues after watching your video.
+FFcossag i got a bluetooth 4.0 module that might interest you too. It comes with an app for Android and iPhone that allows you to change frequency's on the radio, and the equaliser so that you can tune your portable speaker. Only 11 dollars!
could i run this amp with 4 ohm speakers if i drill a hole on the top of the case and put a 80 or 60mm pc fan?
Likely. It's probably fine even with no fan as long as you don't play loud.
Not many people knows what you're talking about. I will tell you the secret make that thing play, people want to know if it sounds good or bad, that's the secret
It's nearly impossible for it to be a clone IC. The world simply doesn't need THAT many no-name almost-high-quality amplifier boards to justify the immense effort of copying this modern and nontrivial IC, when much cheaper 12V and even 24V ICs are available like PAM8100, which is sufficient for nearly all non-HiFi use-cases. Reject? Possible. More likely though: you're supposed to actually cool the IC! A tiny heatsink in stale air, no provision for bottom side cooling, now how much good is that doing you?
I agree. I was wondering about the knock-off, but TI-chips aren't *that* expensive for you to warrant any copying. They're less than 2 euro per piece from Mouser Electronics and other reputable sources. But I've noticed that even though a lot of the amp chips support up to 24v, the quiescent current skyrockets if you up the voltage from 12 to 24v. So that's in addition to the load you're driving. Using 4 ohm speakers with 12 volts might actually end up giving better results.
That fucking thing will explode
All cheap chinese things do!
found some interesting stuff, would be interesting to see if its worth the fuzz on a TPA3116:
hifiduino.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/dual-mono-tpa3122d2-amp/
"Shielded inductors will also help reduce distortion and EMI, minimizing crosstalk in the process."
"Put high quality film caps on LIN, RIN, and BYPASS (C1, C2, C14). This will be the biggest factor in improving sound quality."
"For more bass, replace the C7/C8 and C10/C11 pairs with a 2200 uF (8 ohm speaker) or 4700 uF (4 ohm speaker)"
Those "mods" sound like typical audiophile bullshit. Note that that page is about a TPA3122, though, which seems to be an entirely different chipset to the 3116.
ok, seems to be overrated then. Keep up these great reviews!
I have one right now with me ahaha, i've paid 20$, its good enough
Your voice is more annoying than the amplifier quality!
You don't judge an amp on paper. Numbers aren't the whole syory. Useless video.
lecture, not applicable to customers very complicated..