Really good design! I have a question, if you print with 2 fans at 50% fan speed, can you get the same cooling performance at a much lower noise level?
Hello, I have something confused, please help me. At minute 3.15, you are holding a cable, it looks like a multiplier. What is the name of this cable or is there a link to the product?
Hi there! You are right, this is Y-splitter to connect the two radial fans to the one socket of the mainboard. I actually built it myself. I am not sure if you can buy it somewhere...
How has the shroud fared long-term? I created mine out of PETG and within a week the air duct outlet had melted and deformed to where it's nearly sealed the outlet entirely (Despite using the silicone sock on the hotend).
Hmm, I am sorry to hear that. For me the distance between the shroud and the heating block is sufficient. No melting of the shroud...I am currently working on a new mod for the CR-6. Maybe that will be a better solution...stay tuned!
Is there a V2 in the works? I'm going through and installing and it seems the cable management on the current design is a little tough to manage while installing.
Thank you! No, so far I have been using the stock hotend. However, I am currently working on a E3D Revo CR Hotend conversion for the CR-6 SE. I will post the video and the STL files in a couple of weeks 😎
Hello, I adapted your drawing to my CR-10 Smart device with the CR-6Se hotend and bracket. After much effort, I successfully completed the remix with Direct Drive. I have put a lot of effort into this R&D work. With your permission, can I sell the remix file I made? The results of the device are incredible. Kind regards.
Sure, you can go ahead and publish your design. I'm pretty curious though what you came up with, so the condition is that you share the files with me. Deal 😎?
In your Thingiverse post, you give a link to Amazon for a 12V axial fan, but the radial fans are 24V. Other places I have seen say that the CR 6-SE mainboard supplies 24V, so what is the voltage supplied to the axial fan? Appreciate it if you could clarify.
You are absolutely right. My bad! I will fix that in the description on Thingiverse. You will need a 24V axial fan. I am using this one: geni.us/24VAxial
my friend, I cooled the heatsink with a 4010 axial fan using the duct you designed. but I'm having trouble reaching 220 degrees and getting an error on the screen. what could be the reason.
I had the same issue. In my case I forgot to put the silicone sock over the heating block. It always caused thermal run away errors. Are you using the silcone sock?
I didn't solder as I twisted the cables and connected them tightly with the shrinking tube. There is zero stress on the connection, so I am confident it will hold. But you are right, to be extra safe, soldering would be the better choice 😎
@@thebuildbay As an experienced electrician, I can say that a loose electrical connection can not only rust and increase its resistance, but also create a fire hazard, especially since this connection is used to power the heater. Don't get me wrong, great video :D. I love your attention to details.
Thanks! So far so good. As long as there is a ~1mm gap, it seems to be enough. Plus there is almost always a constant airflow going through the inside of the ducts, which provide extra cooling 😎
This is awesome! Would it be possible for you to make it work with a Direct Drive setup. I have an orbiter v1.5 extruder and stock hotend with a bi-metal heatbreak. Would love to have something like this 😍
excellent video and great hotend design! 👏😎
Thank you buddy!
Nice! I am definitely wanting to recreate this for my CR-6 SE! Thx for the video.
I am glad you like the idea! I have just finished another mod for the CR-6's extruder. I just have finish the video edit. Stay tuned ;-)
Really good design! I have a question, if you print with 2 fans at 50% fan speed, can you get the same cooling performance at a much lower noise level?
love this! how fast would you be able to go on klipper/sonic pad? if you would sell these assembled, I think they would do very well!
Hello, I have something confused, please help me. At minute 3.15, you are holding a cable, it looks like a multiplier. What is the name of this cable or is there a link to the product?
Hi there! You are right, this is Y-splitter to connect the two radial fans to the one socket of the mainboard. I actually built it myself. I am not sure if you can buy it somewhere...
How has the shroud fared long-term? I created mine out of PETG and within a week the air duct outlet had melted and deformed to where it's nearly sealed the outlet entirely (Despite using the silicone sock on the hotend).
Hmm, I am sorry to hear that. For me the distance between the shroud and the heating block is sufficient. No melting of the shroud...I am currently working on a new mod for the CR-6. Maybe that will be a better solution...stay tuned!
@@thebuildbayThat's awesome. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Is there a V2 in the works? I'm going through and installing and it seems the cable management on the current design is a little tough to manage while installing.
I agree! I am currently working on a new setup. I will post the video and the files in the upcoming weeks. Stay tuned 😎
excellent video and tutorial . Do you changed to E3D-V6 hotend ?
Thank you! No, so far I have been using the stock hotend. However, I am currently working on a E3D Revo CR Hotend conversion for the CR-6 SE. I will post the video and the STL files in a couple of weeks 😎
Hello, I adapted your drawing to my CR-10 Smart device with the CR-6Se hotend and bracket. After much effort,
I successfully completed the remix with Direct Drive.
I have put a lot of effort into this R&D work. With your permission, can I sell the remix file I made?
The results of the device are incredible. Kind regards.
Sure, you can go ahead and publish your design. I'm pretty curious though what you came up with, so the condition is that you share the files with me. Deal 😎?
@@thebuildbay There is a video on my UA-cam homepage, but I cannot share the file at the moment.
In your Thingiverse post, you give a link to Amazon for a 12V axial fan, but the radial fans are 24V. Other places I have seen say that the CR 6-SE mainboard supplies 24V, so what is the voltage supplied to the axial fan? Appreciate it if you could clarify.
You are absolutely right. My bad! I will fix that in the description on Thingiverse. You will need a 24V axial fan. I am using this one: geni.us/24VAxial
Are you using 2 12V fans or 2 24V fans for the part cooling?
I am using two 24V radial fans as the mainboard provides that voltage and I didn't want to go into the hustle of stepping it down 😉
Great job! I have a question, Do you use PLA for stl ? Greeting from argentina
Thank you! I am using PETG for improved heat resistance
my friend, I cooled the heatsink with a 4010 axial fan using the duct you designed. but I'm having trouble reaching 220 degrees and getting an error on the screen. what could be the reason.
I had the same issue. In my case I forgot to put the silicone sock over the heating block. It always caused thermal run away errors. Are you using the silcone sock?
3:50 where is the solder >.
I didn't solder as I twisted the cables and connected them tightly with the shrinking tube. There is zero stress on the connection, so I am confident it will hold. But you are right, to be extra safe, soldering would be the better choice 😎
@@thebuildbay As an experienced electrician, I can say that a loose electrical connection can not only rust and increase its resistance, but also create a fire hazard, especially since this connection is used to power the heater. Don't get me wrong, great video :D. I love your attention to details.
@@piotrczerwonka3133 Alrighty, you convinced me. I will solder the connection on my setup. I am not really interested in a fire hazard 👨🚒😉
Nice design!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Great design!!!
How is the fan ducts holding up being that close to the hot end? Is the PETG working out ok?
Thanks! So far so good. As long as there is a ~1mm gap, it seems to be enough. Plus there is almost always a constant airflow going through the inside of the ducts, which provide extra cooling 😎
@@thebuildbay great! I’ll get printing !
This is awesome! Would it be possible for you to make it work with a Direct Drive setup. I have an orbiter v1.5 extruder and stock hotend with a bi-metal heatbreak. Would love to have something like this 😍
I am glad you like it! What I can offer is providing you with the Fusion 360 files and you take it from there. Let me know!
Nice work 👍thanks ill try it with my both SE and max 😍👍
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions 👍🏻
Buenísimo 😊 gracias