I have been working on cars and trucks for about 32 years and made it to Master L1 and I must say that I couldn't have done the job any better than you have. This is an excellent video for anybody that might possibly need to learn how to do this the proper way.. Hats off to you sir on the excellent video job well done! MD
Stil loving these older diags. Thank you for providing all of this very valuable content. I have a friend here in OKC that is a crack Chrysler tech. He’s commented to me many times that those vans have that “contact point” where the harness can run on the motor mount in that same area. Key words that run through my mind.... points of contact, loaded circuit testing, voltage drop and vest of all “test lights are your friend”. Solid Gold.
Exactly. another way to think about it. 12v is feeding the bulb first then travels to the relay coil next. Part of the voltage drops across the bulb, the remainder across the coil. Coil resistance will determine bulb brightness in this series circuit. A low ohm coil = bright bulb, a high ohm coil =a dim bulb. Also the bulb itself is a factor too
After almost 10 years, this video still saves lives! After suspecting the issue with dead wires and driving in limp mode for a week, today diagnostic scan confirmed everything and I received the very same fault code. Preparing to crawl under my van's fender! Thank you very much for this in-depth video and greetings from Europe!
@@ScannerDanner Wonders happen, today is a crazy day! I've power-washed every bit of the wheel 'arch' (sorry for my English), including all that messy wiring because I was stuck in mud up to headlights two days ago... And after all that washing and wiggling of all that terrible-looking wire harness and TCU, my Chrysler Voyager (same car as in your video, but made in Austria, as you probably know), suddenly had no Check Engine light, no limp mode, and now shifts perfectly, without any 'bumps', etc. This only proves that there is a bad wire/connection somewhere. For now, I skipped the 'surgery' of the wires, since it looked too overwhelming. I will prepare myself better mentally for the next time when limp mode happens (and it will happen, for sure). This simply confirms that you were SO RIGHT in this video! Oh, and of course, it is a huge pleasure to receive your reply from the other part of the world and after so many years after the video has been posted! Mega cheers! :)
A very good example why you should always test your circuit loaded and unloaded. Many people forget this and because they don't test it loaded they're not aware of a possible voltage drop. Great video! As always.
Excellent video! The voltage is a piece of the puzzle. The Loaded circuit showed the piece was defective, which led to solving the puzzle ; the wiring. That sure looked like a lot of wires living in a bad environment, under a vehicle. Some one told me once that the best tools in a tech's toolbox are not in the box. They are his mind, hands and his eyes. You saw the retape. You saw the zip tie. Tenacity prevailed. That's what I love about you videos Paul ; The unwillingness to concede until every possibility has been considered and checked and rechecked. To me, it is a beautiful thing to see! Thank you.
Great video! No two techs tackle the same problem exactly the same way, but some how your way is the right way. I do this kinda stuff everyday and it's fun to sit back and watch the puzzle unfold without having to do all the leg work. Your diagnostic process and reasoning are top notch, keep it up!
I just got a 2006 T&C and was having problems with it not shifting. My friend has a scanner and the location of the relay. We were gonna do the test light first then decided to put another relay in exchange. He cleared the ck eng light I tried it and now shifts in all gears. Thank you for your informative video. It made my day that much brighter. Now I got to tackle the right turn signal not returning after turn is made and also the two sliding doors are not locking or unlocking but when you manually unlock the doors the auto open and close works good but just won't lock. (?) Again Thank you
I'm an electrical engineer and my brother was an electrician. My brother taught me to use a test probe with a solenoid in it to check for voltage. This provides a test load for 110v just like the test light in your 12v case. Great video! I'd recommend liquid tape in addition to the marine heat shrink to seal the connections.
It makes sense, voltage is available up to the open point (relay pin 86). As soon as the circuit is loaded voltage gets shared with the other unintended resistance in the circuit, in this case green fuzzy stuff was an unintended resistance. Absolutely a learning curve. That is where you do a wire resistance test with an ohm meter. Thanks for sharing!
Just wanted to let you know I worked for dodge back in the 90s as an engine tech and have busted knuckles for 25 yrs. Most videos you see on here and parts changers. Today you no longer have mechanic's. They are just parts changers. They check a code and start changing till they find what works yours is one of the first that does it right from the start. The only thing I would have done different is swapped relays withe the start or a/c to rule that out fist. But that's a trick us older mech learned when all this computer control came out. Lol anyway I'm not one to comment but this was a great video. And I tip my hat to you.
agreed! I have a 2000 T&C in limp mode after I put a new shift pack in. that cleared all codes except the low/reverse code...and I have seen some wire damage in that harness so tomorrow I get to address that and wouldn't have, until this vid.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I had the limp mode problem back in January. Took it into the garage and they said it was dirty connections on the PCM. The problem came back this summer. I sprayed all the PCM connectors with DeOxIt and no improvement. I found this video. I had problems with three other relays in the past few months. I had one spare left. I go out, replace the relay, go for a drive and BINGO! It's shifting again! Dealers and parts companies want $37-$40 Canadian for the relays. Rock Auto $15. SO I had bought three from Rock Auto after paying $37 for the immediately needed one. Anyways... Thanks again! My van is back in operation. BTW it's a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L.
With your valuable knowledge and clear teaching ability I was able to troubleshoot and fix my vehicle... it turned out to be a bad relay. Thank you for blessing me!
About 15 years ago I worked on a car that the brake light didn't work I spent 4 hours on it because I was using a digital multimeter and it was saying I had 12v. For some reason I grabbed a test light and found the problem in 5 minutes. The point of this is there is a time for a multimeter and there is a time for a test light Great vid
85/86/30/70 should be labeled on each terminal of the relay..that way you know which terminal to go for in the box...Yeah i second that those relay adapters are simply awesome. Only thing i don't like about them is that the terminal numbers on the adapter aren't next to the terminal you want to test..it is what is. You have helped me a bunch in my diagnostic techniques. Your students should be honored to learn from you and I THANK YOU SIR...Keep up the great work!!!!
Also judging by the rust hole in the body. Looks like road salt got into that wiring harness, and just corroded several those wires. Fast diagnosis, great video! Thanks for teaching us all.
I just had one of these in a 98 chry stratus. The sense voltage is the same as a micro controller power good input. If there is a voltage drop the power good will force the module off. My problem was a module output but another shop threw parts at it and didnt fix anything. Thanks again Paul
Got one of these in the shop right now. First thing I do is GoDanner. C if he has a video on it. Then I will bust out my old Vantage and check the circuits. It's probably a tipm in California. We don't have salt, so probably not wiring. Paul's rich catalog of repair videos is pure gold. Thank u!!
Thank you for your excellent video. I have had a Grand Voyager for 13 years with a TCM occasional fault. Four "specialist" transmission garages have investigated and been unable to locate my fault. However with your video I know I can locate the problem and get it sorted at last.
I used loaded circuit testing on a daily basis. I am a big fan of voltage drop testing as well. I use to use a test light in conjunction with a multimeter. Now I have one of those fancy loadpros. It is okay for testing low current stuff. I still use a headlight bulb with a mulitimeter for high current circuits. For certain applications I have breakout harnesses that I can connect my meter in parallel with the component without backprobing. I find it amazing that most manufactures are not okay with using a test light even though it often leads to misdiagnosis. A lot of the modules that are used in my industry are protected with smart FETs or some kind of current limiting device. They have to be because eventually you will have a short to ground on an output driver and there has to be some type of internal circuit protection to prevent damage to the computer. I do like to use OCV for wiggle testing a wire if the wire is in bad enough shape. I am not an automotive tech but your videos are always interesting to watch. Keep up the good work you are helping out a lot of folks on here.
Thank you Sir! You solved my issue with P1698 code (limp mode). Testing the relay lead me to a break in one of the wires leading to the TCM under the front of the car. Ive spent months trying to troubleshoot this issue and there is next to no info online for P1698. Thanks again ... im so excited!! Awesome vid!!
If there have been several wires in the harness which have broken and needed repair, and you find one more which broke on its own, its time to replace the harness itself, not just the affected wires. Even if you fix the broken wire, and reattach the other previously repaired wires, another break will occur on another wire, and the cycle continues. The costs of replacing the wiring harness would have been less than 5 or 7 repair events, including an expert diagnostic job (for which cost does not apply toward the actual repair). This is a case of when the cheapest fix cost much more in the long run. Excellent information and troubleshooting walk through by ScannerDanner
As usual great video. I have noticed in your videos you teach how to work with what you have to perform tests which is great. After being in the automotive repair field for a little over 30 years I am constantly looking for new and better ways to approach testing and repairs. Another method is to remove the relay and rap single strands of wire around each of the pins then reinstall it in the relay box. This must be done with caution because of the potential of short circuiting the circuit being tested. I found this method in a video here on UA-cam by realfixesrealfast called "relay test." I have tried this method and it works. It is a little time consuming, but it works. I recently purchased the Lisle 69300 master relay test jump kit to save time and I highly recommend this kit. Great job and keep up the great work that you do.
Excellent Video. I really enjoyed what you said at 27:46 Reminded me of what my college professor said to me when I was a young buck. "One day, you will not get paid to do the job. You will get paid to know how to do the job."
Scanner "The Man" Danner. Great video. That's some crappy old wiring when you can pull on it and it just breaks apart. Had no idea oxidation would do that. Makes me want to rewire my entire car, heat shrink, and seal every wire with high temp ceramic coating lol. Glad you get paid for this stuff. Great lesson thank you.
GREAT VIDEO PAUL YOU ARE RIGHT ABOUT THE TEST LIGHT I REALIZE THAT IN MOST CASES YOU CAN USE THE TEST LIGHT EVEN IF WE ARE WORKING WITH COMPUTER ACTUATORS.THIS TEST IS TELLING HOW THE CIRCUIT IS WORKING UNDER LOAD,THANKS..
so I changed both my tranny sensors...then my transmission control module . .and still code po700...after this video I unwrapped a bunch of tape. .and sure enough there was 2 failed splices....quick wire job and the old pacifica is no longer in limp mode and runs great....this dudes video is spot on...only difference is my yellow wire had a red strip....nice sharing job man ....thanks
Hey Bro. I loved that it truly shows how simple somethings can be to get a vehicle back on the road. Sometimes it's not always about throwing expensive parts at a vehicle. As mechanics we can show the customer that they can have confidence in us to be honest and fair to repair their vehicle and where we didn't gain in a big job to day will lead to dividends from word of mouth of being honest, reputable and fair, because word of mouth goes both ways.
5:05 They have a tool kit for tapping into the relay circuits that's actually pretty cheap. You can unplug the relay from the fuse block, plug the tool in place of the relay, and you can plug the relay on top of the tool. It has a pin breakout for all 5 pins of the relay. With that and a good wiring diagram, saves me a ton of time testing.
Outstanding field video!! Keep em coming! A little bummed we didn't get to see the finished product and "after repair" diagnosis, but I understand the feeling of accomplishment to walk into the office and tell them with confidence on what to fix. Love the videos!
Thank you Mr Danner for this great presentation I am happy that you mentioning the guys at AESwave. I attended a Bosch auto electronics seminar there and Carlos, sold to me my Launch X431 scanner.
Excellent video, Excellent instructions, Fantastic ability to work the camera and show hard to see spots. You certainly have the aptitude to train technicians about the subject in hand. Good job and thank you for your great contribution to UA-cam community.
you think like the system thinks, great way to diag the system most of us techs dont have that ability and it is something you instill in someone. Great Job!
fantastic video where even the difficulties and oops match ours. my troubles are a 2002 gnd cherokee laredo and a 1998 saturn, but the knowledge gained in this lesson was unmatched, and with a little tweaking can be applied to almost any similar situation. thanks, emilio esteva from puerto rico.
A very common problem on these caravans. Thanks for mentioning that Dodge will turn that relay control off if it see's a problem, that can mess people up as they check for power. That major elbow in the harness where the broken wires were found is a big problem area that can cause all sorts of issues. I noticed that TCM is also not long for this world. They rot out ALOT. I have replaced dozens and after seeing the condition of that one, was expecting to see no output from the module. Maybe next time lol. The dealer often has them in stock and they are not that expensive. They really thought that out sticking it in the wheel well loll. Good vid, thanks!
good job mr.danner.you and south main auto are my go to when theres a problem I cant solve.I enjoy watching you track down the problem.keep up the good verk.
Watching your video I was able to fix my Sebring transmission not shifting to 2nd gear. It was a 20 amp fuse that feeds power to the Transmission relay and my trainy is working like new now . Thanks a lot. I Subscribed . 👌
@ScannerDanner Actually, it was just missing the 20 Amp fuse and being guided by your video. I was able to know it was missing. I just bought the car for 500 bucks . I normally buy used cars and sell them on a side to make extra income. Thanks.
Good stuff. Paul I have had good results using liquid tape applied to a connection and then heat shrink. After heating the shrink tube the liquid tape seals the area quite well.
This video is pure Gold. You have a fantastic ability to explain/teach things. I started working on cars a little over a year ago at the car lot where I work and your videos have been a tremendous assistance. I'm putting money aside to buy your program for sure. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I know you make good money doing diagnostics and all but I really hope you make lots of money via UA-cam with your videos. God Bless my friend!!
@@ScannerDanner Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Hope you get a chance to give your feedback. I performed a loaded relay test (just like you did) and it checks out good (on a 2002 Dodge Durango with a PCM/TCM ). There's constant 12v+ at the relay (Pin 87) and 12v+ in the control wire (Pin 86) when I turn the key to ON position, while loaded my test light is bright. Ground connection is really good. Checked voltage and resistance through out the whole circuit. Also, I checked to make sure there's constant 12v at Transmission Solenoid Assembly connector during key cycle. The problem is after driving the truck for a few miles the code P0888 comes on. Prior to all my testing I replaced the Alternator because the voltage would drop below 12v if I rev'd up the engine's rpm during idle. I took the alternator to 2 different stores to get tested and it failed 4 times (2x at each store). Also, took the battery to get tested and that one checked out really good. Final thing I did, I jumped all the wires between the power dist box to the PCM/TCM and from PCM/TCM to the transmission to make sure there's absolutely no problems with the wiring. And the code still comes back on. Before I condemn the PCM/TCM is there anything else I should check? or does that pretty much confirm my PCM/TCM is malfunctioning after the engine compartment gets real hot? My apologies for this long question. :-(
Awesome video as usual. I like how you do all the technical work and leave the mechanical work to the amateurs. Im earning my teaching credentials and Im using your videos as inspiration for when I get out there and teach. I look up to you man.
those relay testers are awesome. there are 2 sets basically 1 for domestic and 1 for import. I use them quite often they also are numbered to coraspond with relays and wiring diagrams
My 01 voyager which is the same as this van had the same problem. All kinds of weird electrical problems with gauages going crazy. Random beeps. Stuck in limp mode. It turned out to be a bad alternator that was putting out normal dc voltage but it was also puitting out a/c current which was contaminating the entire electrical system. Changed alternator. And everything works perfect again.
Those work, as long as when you heat it, it has the sealer that comes out of it. It is some type of sealant, not sure what it is made of, but the good ones have it.
Thanks for the video. I had to "limp" home the other day at 2nd gear or so. The symptoms were while driving in the rain, the speedometer (only) stopped indicating speed and feel to zero. At the same time the transmission dropped to gear 2 or so resulting in my tachometer going up to 3000 rpm. I managed to "limp it home" taking bake roads. Did the research, and started narrowing down the component at issue either the Transmission Control Unit, or as you have demonstrated, a low voltage situation resulting in the relay not properly functioning. Various repairs have been to just replace the TCU, but after looking at your relay/wiring troubleshooting, this may also be the case. I'll take the knowledge from this video and the other video which showed the replacing of the TCU (which oriented me to the procedure and location of the prospective areas of concern. I have yet to determine the engine light code (engine light is still on) but the vehicle (now in dry weather) is shifting normally as I drive (with the engine light still on) and of course, with the idea that it will once again slip into Limp mode. Note, on the way back home the night of the occurrence, and while driving slowly in limp mode at about 2000 RPM (in probably 2nd gear), at one point the transmission regained normal mode and went back into normal functioning. But just before arriving back home, the transmission slipped back into limp mode. So basically what I'm saying it began intermittently shifting normally, but now the engine light is still lit and the issue is still needing to be addressed for reliability purposes. I am going to find out how to have the vehicle "show me" the code on the odometer screen, and I'll be able to have that information going into the hopeful repair of this problem. Note, the vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, 6 cylinder. The replacement of the TCU (seems relatively easy to swap out mine with a new/rebuilt one) just as a quick fix (component replacement attempt) which from one video suggests the new component may be in the $200 dollar range. Also, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable garage and is most likely still under warranty (5year/50kmiles). So, I have two avenues of approach, 1) contact the original garage (Cotman Transmission) and have them advise me where to take the vehicle locally (another state) for a networked garage to honor their warranty. (I asked them how I would do this if I moved from the original state/city where they originally rebuilt the transmission. 2) I will at least do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness (which may be suspect because of the situation having occurred during heavy rain conditions (possible water exposure to some element in the circuit). Again, now a dry sunny day, the transmission is working normally (with engine light on). If I don't see something obviously hanging out, or if the relay inspection doesn't reveal any loose or corroded parts, I'll then have that information to go forward with the next step. Idealistically I would like to take it to the networked warranty repair shop and have them engage the repair. However, I may not be covered since this isn't really a component of the transmission (wiring and control unit) or maybe it is a full fledged item covered (which they may not have installed a rebuilt or replacement unit at time of rebuilding the transmission the first time). Any case, your video was definitely a helper in that it showed more detailed information about the surrounding components of the TCU which may be at fault causing the "limp mode" triggering. I also have this knowledge when contacting the original garage to ask them if they in fact replaced the TCU at the time of the rebuild. They may have just "let it slide" at the time, resulting in me needing one now. Since the TCU is a pricey item, they may have just let it slide. Thanks! Any follow up comments to my situation will be helpful.
Some info for you. 1.Transmission codes will set the check engine light. 2. You need to focus on your transmission output speed sensor circuit. A failure in this circuit will cause a 2nd gear limp mode and speedometer issues. Have you see this? ua-cam.com/video/MGaHaIXZioA/v-deo.html
Scanner: This morning I did a visual inspection of all relevant areas as well as ran the engine codes using the ignition key (off/on x3) system. I then inspected around the area and saw a sensor that looked very corroded on its outer tip area. Looking into the TOSS videos on YT, it appears to be the Transmission Output Speed Sensor. I find this to be good news to locate a visibly suspect part that may be the problem. Especially since my problem was directly associated with the odometer dropping out, and given it started doing this during heavy rain. Lastly, I inspected the fuse box area for any suspicious items. None visibly, of course a more thorough volt meter / light probe method could be used if needed. The codes appearing on the display were: P0302 Code - Cylinder #2 Misfire (www.obd-codes.com/p0302) P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance (www.obd-codes.com/p0501) P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction (www.obd-codes.com/p0700) My first course of action is to remove the corroded TOSS and clean it up, and give it a closer inspection. I'll then replace it. If that does not solve the 700/501 problem, then I'll look into just replacing it for the $20/$30 dollars. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to call Cotman and find out where they want me to take it to get it looked at under the warranty. That is, unless I don't find another way to deal with it. I've taken some video and pictures of the inspection, and will create a quick video reply so you can see what I'm talking about, especially about the corroded component most likely the TOSS. Post scrip: 1. I've edited this entry to remove what I thought was the TCM but in fact is the Transmission Solenoid/ Pressure Switch Assembly. I looked around and found a transmission diagram that helped me with that one. I also see there is both an input and output speed sensor? Is it good housekeeping just to change them both? The input is very clean, not corroded like the output.
Couldn't you use the wiring diagram to find out which pin is which circuit inside the junction box? Btw, love your videos. As a newish practicing tech, I have learned more from a few hours of your videos than I did in a whole semester at a community college. If only all teachers took their job to the extent as you do. Thanks for you input and knowledge.
scaner danner you areawesome, i never were able to grasp diagnoses till i watched all your vids and read your book. yes i have 6th eddition. thank you paul for being so descreptive and i also take my kids on diag jobs with me for they think im a hero since i been diaging. they love the test lights and noid lights.lol thanx paul for making my life so much easier and fullfilled. my hats off to you sir.
Really good video I found a similar wires on a GM . somebody fixed two wires with crimp on connectors, even worse than soldered unsealed heatshrink. most people think this fix will last at least a couple of years until the vehicle is junked, and then when the vehicle goes 4 years and quits they wonder why. Thanks for the video
This video is giving me flashbacks form my days at the dodge dealer! also saw a ton of the tcms rot out and split the circuit board inside and the harness would rot inside the fenderwell as well! there's a tcm circuit splice just abouve the tcm under the washer bottle that would corrode and cause all kinds of tcm issues! Razor knives shouldn't be used to open harnesses up! A seam ripper out of a sewing kit works so much better!
Thanks for the video. It just saved me some serious money. I did like you suggested and started with the EATX relay. swapped it with the fog lamp relay because I don't have fog lights and that fixed the problem. I swapped the relays first because could not find my meter. Thanks again !!!!!!
Thank's a lot! Had a similar issue with a Voyager. Multimeter shown 11.4 volts, wires seemed ok until ran through a test light like you did. Had to change 2 wires in the end. Thank's again man!
Personally, I would try switching relays first just to make sure the relay's good. Then find which pin on the relay is for the switch rather than sending power thru the fuse/relay block and fry a circuit. Anyway, I don't do this kinda job but it's nice to know how to go about it and how it operates. Thanks for the video!
Great video. We have a 2005 Buick Rainier that we have been having shifting issues with, and I think I will apply your testing method, and will most likely find a simple, but nasty fix like the one you just demonstrated. Thanks.
Transmission No Shift Case Study. Would this also be why a floor shifter will not come out of park. 2002 Nissan Maxima 3.5. Your other videos saved me lots of money and towing expenses. I am a shade tree mechanic and 72 years young and still learning. Thanks again for your help and knowledge.
No, that would be a "shift interlock" system issue and every car is different. Post this to my forum and we will try to help you there okay? scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Amazing... The no-load test result of 12V would have thrown me off for sure! Total lesson learned to test circuits under load. I would love to know what ignorant knucklehead parts changers would thumbs down this video. I have to think that because it didn't show a transmission swap in 5 minutes or less they thumbs downed when they realized nothing more than voltage checks will be done.
Thanks Matt. I think some people just want the fix to be shown without testing procedures and methods. What some do not realize is how much information I pack into each case study, maybe to a fault sometimes. But those that really want to learn this stuff truly appreciate it. So I don't worry about the thumbs down anymore. Happy New year friend
ScannerDanner Premium You are correct at that sir- about people just wanting to see the fix. I think my all-time favorite comment on my channel was on a misfire diagnosis series where I basically covered just about every single possible variable you might have for a misfire and how to test each and every component to rule them out or confirm them as the problem. A guy commented he saw the series and thanked me for finally "setting him straight" because he previously changed almost every part in his car and the video "finally gave him an entirely new direction he never thought of" and he was confident he would finally fix his misfire. I was feeling pretty satisfied about converting a swaptron until 2 days later he says "I changed every single part you mentioned in your video series and still have the misfire- got any other videos with other ideas for parts I can try changing?" Sigh. You're right- those that want to learn, will. And those who don't will never understand what channels like these actually offer.All I can say is I have learned more from you in the past year than I have cumulatively in my whole life, and many things I have learned from you have literally been life changing for me- I mean, literally.. life changing. Happy New Year my friend.
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BAD BATTERY! I had a problem with a 2004 caravan would not shift past second gear. cleaned my battery terminals checked my battery. turns out it was going bad so I changed it. works like a champ. that was my situation may not apply too everyone's problem
voltage drop testing and loaded circuit is key my dodge caravan had the same identical problem after diagnosing it mine was a bad selonoid shift pack a 225.00 part but well worth it the crystler garage told me they usally go out at 100k miles replaced mine at 98k miles and now at 211k miles on it still shifts like new very good lerning information videos thankyou great job
Hello friend. The test light I was using in the video I bought from Sears over 10 years ago. Not sure if they still make them. I looked on their site and didn't see it. Any regular style test light will work. Just check your current draw of the light so you know for future reference. Most of the incandescent style lights will have around 200ma or less.
Great job man, the whole load no load deal is just a life saver. Thanks for the help man. Keep it up. Straight from Az. "I wasnt a big fan of test lights", just when I thought that "power probe" was the most important tool in my arsenal
Good explanation of voltage drop Paul, I liked the part where you show the unloaded voltage vs the loaded voltage, when you see voltage unloaded and very little with the circuit loaded, instant indicator you have corrosion in the circuit and you need to look for green wires. Two thumbs up.
DEAR SCANNER, I WATCHED THE CASE STUDY ON P0888. I HAVE THE CARAVAN SPORT AND I GOT VOLTAGE TO ALL CIRCUITS DOWN IN THE TCM CHECKING IT STEP BY STEP AS YOU DID, MY PROBLEM ALSO IS THAT WHEN ITS COLD OR WHEN THE WEATHER IS BAD MY VAN DOES THE FOLLOWING: IN THE FUSE BOX I CAN HEAR RELAYS ENERGIZING AND DE-ENERGIZING(CLICKING), THE WINDOW WIPERS AND SPRAY SOME TIMES START AND STOP AT 10 SECOND INTERVALS, AND HEADLIGHTS BLINK. ALL WITH THE KEY IN MY HAND. WHEN I START THE VEHICLE SOMETIMES THE RADIO AND HEAT WONT WORK, AND THE GEAR INDICATOR LIGHTS UP ALL LETTERS. WHEN I DRIVE IT JERKS AND ACTS AS IF IT WANTS TO STALL. THEN LATER IN THE DAY OR NEXT DAY IT WILL RUN FINE (EXCEPT FOR THE MISFIRE ON PLUG 5) FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS. I HAVENT UNWRAPPED THE WIRES TO LOOK BUT I WANTED TO SEE WHAT YOU THOUGHT. I CANT AFFORD TO GIVE IT TO A MECHANIC BUT I'M VERY HANDY.
A very nice job as usual Paul! You make it look so easy finding a corroded wire in a harness. But I guess that wire harness problems are rare when the protective conduit and tape is intact. And if you find indications on a problem with the insulation that is probably where the fault is.
that is one rusty car. I Stumbled on this great vid while trying to find info on a similar problem on a mercedes ML, I have no juice to the trans ECU and this has given me some great pointers. many thanks!.
I have a 2009 and had the same problem with ours. I also went threw all the Electrical. What I ended up trying was adding additional Transition Fluid. The problem went away. I have now marked my dipstick at the level it took for the transition to work normal. Our Jeep acted just like a transition that was about a Quart Low. So far our problem has not come back.
great video paul ! feel almost sorry for you guys on the east coast, those cars are hammered with rust ! car repair must be huge there! speaking from a tech from California. Thanks to your videos I no longer follow manufacture flow charts. Usually all I need is a wiring diagram, test lite or power probe to test things. If your looking for a relay interface tool lisle tool has em and so does wakeon. Vim tools I think has one as well. I used to be a tool guy but went back to wrenchin.
Hey bud, I had this code as well as a p0700 happen on the freeway. Truck late shifted and clunked and put me into limp mode. But it’s intermittent. Check engine light is still on, but truck is shifting fine again. It also made my Lamp Out lights come on and off, ABS lights, and my oil pressure would drop at a complete stop.
Paul, it looks like all those wires should be checked. If the problem wire was bad without having been repaired before, what makes anyone think that others aren't about to do the same thing. Like you stated... How cool is it to be you not being the one to have to fix it... Great video.
I have a 2005 town and country , my transaxle relay only has one lead showing power continuous and the other terminal will not get power to it when I cycle the ignition on I really think I have a broken wire from the computer to the relay, but don't have the color diagram of the wire, Do you know if Chrysler used the same color wire as the 2002 town and country(yellow and Brown). The video you posted is the exact problem I maybe having, very informative. The car has 228,000 miles wiring is very brittle .
I have a ton of nightmare stories! -timing chain replacement for a blown injector fuse on one bank -16 hours (got paid for 2) on a caddy that would intermittently blow the muffler apart -6 hours on my first GM CPI with 49 psi of fuel psi -smoked a $750 Nissan computer trying to jump a fuel pump -8 hours on my first dirty MAF sensor (funny story)
Great learning video and I don't care when it was made still revelent today, watched it three times and plan on watching it again because it being computer controlled relay and it is my make and model, don't cry for me, the van sits most of the time, load side relays alright and how to check, explained at my speed, thanks Paul
A leaking battery usually messes that wiring harness up in that spot. Also curb or pavers in parking lots. So just if u get an electric problem it’s probably in that area
It is worth noting (and perhaps it has already been done in the comments) that there was a diagram on the side of the relay which identifies the functions of the pins. Your thumb was on it each time you pulled the relay out.
For sure but I don't rely on those much as half the cars will not be marked. It is important to be able to determine pin designs without it don't you think?
It is absolutely crucial to learn to identify the pinout without a schematic, BUT I would say that learning to read the schematic on the relay is fairly important too. It saves time, can prevent a jumper wire screw up that could potentially create new problems, and is just good for understanding how the relay works in general. Of course nothing explains how they work better than popping the cap off and seeing it in action.
Dude you are a great instructor, keep up great work...even though this video didn't help me because I didn't have have power to the power distribution box. thx again.
Absolute great job on your video. Question though who is Bright Idea is it for these manufacturers to put computers and oil coolers and such right by the wheels. Gravel roads absolutely destroy the wiring. I've had to repair a lot of curb checked caravans in the same fashion get them every time. once again great job.
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-DwV0HLsE4/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been working on cars and trucks for about 32 years and made it to Master L1 and I must say that I couldn't have done the job any better than you have. This is an excellent video for anybody that might possibly need to learn how to do this the proper way.. Hats off to you sir on the excellent video job well done! MD
Thanks so much!
Stil loving these older diags. Thank you for providing all of this very valuable content.
I have a friend here in OKC that is a crack Chrysler tech. He’s commented to me many times that those vans have that “contact point” where the harness can run on the motor mount in that same area. Key words that run through my mind.... points of contact, loaded circuit testing, voltage drop and vest of all “test lights are your friend”. Solid Gold.
Thank you so much! You've been clearly paying attention 😀
Exactly. another way to think about it. 12v is feeding the bulb first then travels to the relay coil next. Part of the voltage drops across the bulb, the remainder across the coil. Coil resistance will determine bulb brightness in this series circuit. A low ohm coil = bright bulb, a high ohm coil =a dim bulb. Also the bulb itself is a factor too
This must be the 4th time I’ve watched this video. The case for loaded circuit testing doesn’t get any stronger than this video. Awesome 👍
Thanks for the reminder about that for when I start class next week :-)
After almost 10 years, this video still saves lives! After suspecting the issue with dead wires and driving in limp mode for a week, today diagnostic scan confirmed everything and I received the very same fault code. Preparing to crawl under my van's fender! Thank you very much for this in-depth video and greetings from Europe!
Heck yeah! Let me know
@@ScannerDanner Wonders happen, today is a crazy day! I've power-washed every bit of the wheel 'arch' (sorry for my English), including all that messy wiring because I was stuck in mud up to headlights two days ago... And after all that washing and wiggling of all that terrible-looking wire harness and TCU, my Chrysler Voyager (same car as in your video, but made in Austria, as you probably know), suddenly had no Check Engine light, no limp mode, and now shifts perfectly, without any 'bumps', etc. This only proves that there is a bad wire/connection somewhere. For now, I skipped the 'surgery' of the wires, since it looked too overwhelming. I will prepare myself better mentally for the next time when limp mode happens (and it will happen, for sure). This simply confirms that you were SO RIGHT in this video!
Oh, and of course, it is a huge pleasure to receive your reply from the other part of the world and after so many years after the video has been posted! Mega cheers! :)
A very good example why you should always test your circuit loaded and unloaded. Many people forget this and because they don't test it loaded they're not aware of a possible voltage drop. Great video! As always.
Excellent video! The voltage is a piece of the puzzle. The Loaded circuit showed the piece was defective, which led to solving the puzzle ; the wiring. That sure looked like a lot of wires living in a bad environment, under a vehicle. Some one told me once that the best tools in a tech's toolbox are not in the box. They are his mind, hands and his eyes. You saw the retape. You saw the zip tie. Tenacity prevailed. That's what I love about you videos Paul ; The unwillingness to concede until every possibility has been considered and checked and rechecked. To me, it is a beautiful thing to see! Thank you.
Great video! No two techs tackle the same problem exactly the same way, but some how your way is the right way. I do this kinda stuff everyday and it's fun to sit back and watch the puzzle unfold without having to do all the leg work. Your diagnostic process and reasoning are top notch, keep it up!
I just got a 2006 T&C and was having problems with it not shifting. My friend has a scanner and the location of the relay. We were gonna do the test light first then decided to put another relay in exchange. He cleared the ck eng light I tried it and now shifts in all gears.
Thank you for your informative video. It made my day that much brighter. Now I got to tackle the right turn signal not returning after turn is made and also the two sliding doors are not locking or unlocking but when you manually unlock the doors the auto open and close works good but just won't lock. (?) Again Thank you
Thank you Thor7167! Always good to hear positive feedback about what I am doing. I really appreciate it.
I'm an electrical engineer and my brother was an electrician. My brother taught me to use a test probe with a solenoid in it to check for voltage. This provides a test load for 110v just like the test light in your 12v case. Great video! I'd recommend liquid tape in addition to the marine heat shrink to seal the connections.
Thanks Kenneth. Always great to hear from engineers on my channel
Super !! I have done auto repairs for 40 years, your a Professional !! Great job !!tech, video and audio !!!
Thanks a lot!
It makes sense, voltage is available up to the open point (relay pin 86). As soon as the circuit is loaded voltage gets shared with the other unintended resistance in the circuit, in this case green fuzzy stuff was an unintended resistance. Absolutely a learning curve. That is where you do a wire resistance test with an ohm meter. Thanks for sharing!
The ohmmeter will fail you in so many circumstance like this. It just doesn't stress the circuit enough and will show you false no resistance readings
Just wanted to let you know I worked for dodge back in the 90s as an engine tech and have busted knuckles for 25 yrs. Most videos you see on here and parts changers. Today you no longer have mechanic's. They are just parts changers. They check a code and start changing till they find what works yours is one of the first that does it right from the start. The only thing I would have done different is swapped relays withe the start or a/c to rule that out fist. But that's a trick us older mech learned when all this computer control came out. Lol anyway I'm not one to comment but this was a great video. And I tip my hat to you.
Well thanks for commenting. I appreciate it very much
agreed! I have a 2000 T&C in limp mode after I put a new shift pack in. that cleared all codes except the low/reverse code...and I have seen some wire damage in that harness so tomorrow I get to address that and wouldn't have, until this vid.
@@mac6452 sigh..I guess I'll try that too
burt davis qqžzone
@@splatteredmoon it didn't work. Every once in a while it does it again.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I had the limp mode problem back in January. Took it into the garage and they said it was dirty connections on the PCM.
The problem came back this summer. I sprayed all the PCM connectors with DeOxIt and no improvement.
I found this video. I had problems with three other relays in the past few months. I had one spare left. I go out, replace the relay, go for a drive and BINGO! It's shifting again!
Dealers and parts companies want $37-$40 Canadian for the relays. Rock Auto $15. SO I had bought three from Rock Auto after paying $37 for the immediately needed one.
Anyways...
Thanks again! My van is back in operation.
BTW it's a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L.
With your valuable knowledge and clear teaching ability I was able to troubleshoot and fix my vehicle... it turned out to be a bad relay. Thank you for blessing me!
awesome! thank you for the comment
About 15 years ago I worked on a car that the brake light didn't work I spent 4 hours on it because I was using a digital multimeter and it was saying I had 12v. For some reason I grabbed a test light and found the problem in 5 minutes. The point of this is there is a time for a multimeter and there is a time for a test light
Great vid
85/86/30/70 should be labeled on each terminal of the relay..that way you know which terminal to go for in the box...Yeah i second that those relay adapters are simply awesome. Only thing i don't like about them is that the terminal numbers on the adapter aren't next to the terminal you want to test..it is what is. You have helped me a bunch in my diagnostic techniques. Your students should be honored to learn from you and I THANK YOU SIR...Keep up the great work!!!!
you really bring a lot of intelligence in explaining the "why" behind a lot of things. Thanks for the good work!
+bigeyejim thank you!
dan how did you rule out the solenoid not being the issue?
bigeyejim
bigeyejim
bigeyejim
Also judging by the rust hole in the body. Looks like road salt got into that wiring harness, and just corroded several those wires. Fast diagnosis, great video! Thanks for teaching us all.
I just can't believe they put the computer there.
Car electrical issues were always a real pain in the ass for me in my teens and twenties. You have changed all that. Nice work Scanner Danner.
I just had one of these in a 98 chry stratus. The sense voltage is the same as a micro controller power good input. If there is a voltage drop the power good will force the module off. My problem was a module output but another shop threw parts at it and didnt fix anything.
Thanks again Paul
Got one of these in the shop right now. First thing I do is GoDanner. C if he has a video on it. Then I will bust out my old Vantage and check the circuits. It's probably a tipm in California. We don't have salt, so probably not wiring. Paul's rich catalog of repair videos is pure gold. Thank u!!
Thank you for your excellent video. I have had a Grand Voyager for 13 years with a TCM occasional fault. Four "specialist" transmission garages have investigated and been unable to locate my fault. However with your video I know I can locate the problem and get it sorted at last.
I used loaded circuit testing on a daily basis. I am a big fan of voltage drop testing as well. I use to use a test light in conjunction with a multimeter. Now I have one of those fancy loadpros. It is okay for testing low current stuff. I still use a headlight bulb with a mulitimeter for high current circuits. For certain applications I have breakout harnesses that I can connect my meter in parallel with the component without backprobing. I find it amazing that most manufactures are not okay with using a test light even though it often leads to misdiagnosis. A lot of the modules that are used in my industry are protected with smart FETs or some kind of current limiting device. They have to be because eventually you will have a short to ground on an output driver and there has to be some type of internal circuit protection to prevent damage to the computer. I do like to use OCV for wiggle testing a wire if the wire is in bad enough shape. I am not an automotive tech but your videos are always interesting to watch. Keep up the good work you are helping out a lot of folks on here.
Thank you Sir! You solved my issue with P1698 code (limp mode). Testing the relay lead me to a break in one of the wires leading to the TCM under the front of the car. Ive spent months trying to troubleshoot this issue and there is next to no info online for P1698. Thanks again ... im so excited!! Awesome vid!!
If there have been several wires in the harness which have broken and needed repair, and you find one more which broke on its own, its time to replace the harness itself, not just the affected wires.
Even if you fix the broken wire, and reattach the other previously repaired wires, another break will occur on another wire, and the cycle continues. The costs of replacing the wiring harness would have been less than 5 or 7 repair events, including an expert diagnostic job (for which cost does not apply toward the actual repair).
This is a case of when the cheapest fix cost much more in the long run.
Excellent information and troubleshooting walk through by ScannerDanner
As usual great video. I have noticed in your videos you teach how to work with what you have to perform tests which is great. After being in the automotive repair field for a little over 30 years I am constantly looking for new and better ways to approach testing and repairs. Another method is to remove the relay and rap single strands of wire around each of the pins then reinstall it in the relay box. This must be done with caution because of the potential of short circuiting the circuit being tested. I found this method in a video here on UA-cam by realfixesrealfast called "relay test." I have tried this method and it works. It is a little time consuming, but it works. I recently purchased the Lisle 69300 master relay test jump kit to save time and I highly recommend this kit. Great job and keep up the great work that you do.
Excellent Video.
I really enjoyed what you said at 27:46
Reminded me of what my college professor said to me when I was a young buck.
"One day, you will not get paid to do the job.
You will get paid to know how to do the job."
Scanner "The Man" Danner. Great video. That's some crappy old wiring when you can pull on it and it just breaks apart. Had no idea oxidation would do that. Makes me want to rewire my entire car, heat shrink, and seal every wire with high temp ceramic coating lol. Glad you get paid for this stuff. Great lesson thank you.
I'm amazed that this type of video even exist. Thank you!
Thank you! I have a ton more just like this.
GREAT VIDEO PAUL YOU ARE RIGHT ABOUT THE TEST LIGHT I REALIZE THAT IN MOST CASES YOU CAN USE THE TEST LIGHT EVEN IF WE ARE WORKING WITH COMPUTER ACTUATORS.THIS TEST IS TELLING HOW THE CIRCUIT IS WORKING UNDER LOAD,THANKS..
so I changed both my tranny sensors...then my transmission control module . .and still code po700...after this video I unwrapped a bunch of tape. .and sure enough there was 2 failed splices....quick wire job and the old pacifica is no longer in limp mode and runs great....this dudes video is spot on...only difference is my yellow wire had a red strip....nice sharing job man ....thanks
That's awesome man! So glad it helped you
I agree with Scannerdanner! Just continue to follow him, buy his e-book (and read it), and practice on a lot of cars with no problems.
Hey Bro. I loved that it truly shows how simple somethings can be to get a vehicle back on the road. Sometimes it's not always about throwing expensive parts at a vehicle. As mechanics we can show the customer that they can have confidence in us to be honest and fair to repair their vehicle and where we didn't gain in a big job to day will lead to dividends from word of mouth of being honest, reputable and fair, because word of mouth goes both ways.
You have a very informative video, i'm an old DIY'er. I'm one of those " I know enuff to be dangerous". Your video will keep me safe. Thanks
5:05 They have a tool kit for tapping into the relay circuits that's actually pretty cheap. You can unplug the relay from the fuse block, plug the tool in place of the relay, and you can plug the relay on top of the tool. It has a pin breakout for all 5 pins of the relay. With that and a good wiring diagram, saves me a ton of time testing.
Outstanding field video!! Keep em coming! A little bummed we didn't get to see the finished product and "after repair" diagnosis, but I understand the feeling of accomplishment to walk into the office and tell them with confidence on what to fix. Love the videos!
Thank you Mr Danner for this great presentation I am happy that you mentioning the guys at AESwave. I attended a Bosch auto electronics seminar there and Carlos, sold to me my Launch X431 scanner.
Excellent video, Excellent instructions, Fantastic ability to work the camera and show hard to see spots. You certainly have the aptitude to train technicians about the subject in hand.
Good job and thank you for your great contribution to UA-cam community.
Thank you very much! This comment made my day and our camera work and editing has only gotten better over the years.
you think like the system thinks, great way to diag the system most of us techs dont have that ability and it is something you instill in someone. Great Job!
fantastic video where even the difficulties and oops match ours. my troubles are a 2002 gnd cherokee laredo and a 1998 saturn, but the knowledge gained in this lesson was unmatched, and with a little tweaking can be applied to almost any similar situation. thanks, emilio esteva from puerto rico.
Thank you Emilio!
A very common problem on these caravans. Thanks for mentioning that Dodge will turn that relay control off if it see's a problem, that can mess people up as they check for power. That major elbow in the harness where the broken wires were found is a big problem area that can cause all sorts of issues. I noticed that TCM is also not long for this world. They rot out ALOT. I have replaced dozens and after seeing the condition of that one, was expecting to see no output from the module. Maybe next time lol. The dealer often has them in stock and they are not that expensive. They really thought that out sticking it in the wheel well loll. Good vid, thanks!
good job mr.danner.you and south main auto are my go to when theres a problem I cant solve.I enjoy watching you track down the problem.keep up the good verk.
Thank you!
Watching your video I was able to fix my Sebring transmission not shifting to 2nd gear. It was a 20 amp fuse that feeds power to the Transmission relay and my trainy is working like new now . Thanks a lot. I Subscribed . 👌
Now to find out why it blew! It will happen again. Look for contact points of the wiring harness where that circuit runs
@ScannerDanner Actually, it was just missing the 20 Amp fuse and being guided by your video. I was able to know it was missing. I just bought the car for 500 bucks . I normally buy used cars and sell them on a side to make extra income. Thanks.
I think that this might be the problem we are having with my van. Bought it for cheap, lot's of bugs to sort out. Thank you so very much.
Good stuff. Paul I have had good results using liquid tape applied to a connection and then heat shrink. After heating the shrink tube the liquid tape seals the area quite well.
This video is pure Gold. You have a fantastic ability to explain/teach things. I started working on cars a little over a year ago at the car lot where I work and your videos have been a tremendous assistance. I'm putting money aside to buy your program for sure. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I know you make good money doing diagnostics and all but I really hope you make lots of money via UA-cam with your videos. God Bless my friend!!
thanks so much! I'm so glad this stuff is helping you. Hearing the success stories means more to me than all the money in the world
@@ScannerDanner Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Hope you get a chance to give your feedback. I performed a loaded relay test (just like you did) and it checks out good (on a 2002 Dodge Durango with a PCM/TCM ). There's constant 12v+ at the relay (Pin 87) and 12v+ in the control wire (Pin 86) when I turn the key to ON position, while loaded my test light is bright. Ground connection is really good. Checked voltage and resistance through out the whole circuit. Also, I checked to make sure there's constant 12v at Transmission Solenoid Assembly connector during key cycle. The problem is after driving the truck for a few miles the code P0888 comes on. Prior to all my testing I replaced the Alternator because the voltage would drop below 12v if I rev'd up the engine's rpm during idle. I took the alternator to 2 different stores to get tested and it failed 4 times (2x at each store). Also, took the battery to get tested and that one checked out really good. Final thing I did, I jumped all the wires between the power dist box to the PCM/TCM and from PCM/TCM to the transmission to make sure there's absolutely no problems with the wiring. And the code still comes back on. Before I condemn the PCM/TCM is there anything else I should check? or does that pretty much confirm my PCM/TCM is malfunctioning after the engine compartment gets real hot? My apologies for this long question. :-(
Awesome video as usual. I like how you do all the technical work and leave the mechanical work to the amateurs. Im earning my teaching credentials and Im using your videos as inspiration for when I get out there and teach. I look up to you man.
those relay testers are awesome. there are 2 sets basically 1 for domestic and 1 for import. I use them quite often they also are numbered to coraspond with relays and wiring diagrams
My 01 voyager which is the same as this van had the same problem. All kinds of weird electrical problems with gauages going crazy. Random beeps. Stuck in limp mode. It turned out to be a bad alternator that was putting out normal dc voltage but it was also puitting out a/c current which was contaminating the entire electrical system. Changed alternator. And everything works perfect again.
Bad diode in the rectifier brige .
Those work, as long as when you heat it, it has the sealer that comes out of it. It is some type of sealant, not sure what it is made of, but the good ones have it.
Great job Sanner Danner. Thanks a lot for sharing. God bless you and your family.
Thanks for the video. I had to "limp" home the other day at 2nd gear or so.
The symptoms were while driving in the rain, the speedometer (only) stopped indicating speed and feel to zero. At the same time the transmission dropped to gear 2 or so resulting in my tachometer going up to 3000 rpm.
I managed to "limp it home" taking bake roads.
Did the research, and started narrowing down the component at issue either the Transmission Control Unit, or as you have demonstrated, a low voltage situation resulting in the relay not properly functioning.
Various repairs have been to just replace the TCU, but after looking at your relay/wiring troubleshooting, this may also be the case.
I'll take the knowledge from this video and the other video which showed the replacing of the TCU (which oriented me to the procedure and location of the prospective areas of concern.
I have yet to determine the engine light code (engine light is still on) but the vehicle (now in dry weather) is shifting normally as I drive (with the engine light still on) and of course, with the idea that it will once again slip into Limp mode.
Note, on the way back home the night of the occurrence, and while driving slowly in limp mode at about 2000 RPM (in probably 2nd gear), at one point the transmission regained normal mode and went back into normal functioning. But just before arriving back home, the transmission slipped back into limp mode. So basically what I'm saying it began intermittently shifting normally, but now the engine light is still lit and the issue is still needing to be addressed for reliability purposes.
I am going to find out how to have the vehicle "show me" the code on the odometer screen, and I'll be able to have that information going into the hopeful repair of this problem.
Note, the vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, 6 cylinder.
The replacement of the TCU (seems relatively easy to swap out mine with a new/rebuilt one) just as a quick fix (component replacement attempt) which from one video suggests the new component may be in the $200 dollar range.
Also, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable garage and is most likely still under warranty (5year/50kmiles).
So, I have two avenues of approach, 1) contact the original garage (Cotman Transmission) and have them advise me where to take the vehicle locally (another state) for a networked garage to honor their warranty. (I asked them how I would do this if I moved from the original state/city where they originally rebuilt the transmission.
2) I will at least do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness (which may be suspect because of the situation having occurred during heavy rain conditions (possible water exposure to some element in the circuit). Again, now a dry sunny day, the transmission is working normally (with engine light on). If I don't see something obviously hanging out, or if the relay inspection doesn't reveal any loose or corroded parts, I'll then have that information to go forward with the next step.
Idealistically I would like to take it to the networked warranty repair shop and have them engage the repair. However, I may not be covered since this isn't really a component of the transmission (wiring and control unit) or maybe it is a full fledged item covered (which they may not have installed a rebuilt or replacement unit at time of rebuilding the transmission the first time).
Any case, your video was definitely a helper in that it showed more detailed information about the surrounding components of the TCU which may be at fault causing the "limp mode" triggering. I also have this knowledge when contacting the original garage to ask them if they in fact replaced the TCU at the time of the rebuild. They may have just "let it slide" at the time, resulting in me needing one now. Since the TCU is a pricey item, they may have just let it slide.
Thanks! Any follow up comments to my situation will be helpful.
Some info for you.
1.Transmission codes will set the check engine light.
2. You need to focus on your transmission output speed sensor circuit. A failure in this circuit will cause a 2nd gear limp mode and speedometer issues.
Have you see this? ua-cam.com/video/MGaHaIXZioA/v-deo.html
Scanner:
This morning I did a visual inspection of all relevant areas as well as ran the engine codes using the ignition key (off/on x3) system.
I then inspected around the area and saw a sensor that looked very corroded on its outer tip area. Looking into the TOSS videos on YT, it appears to be the Transmission Output Speed Sensor.
I find this to be good news to locate a visibly suspect part that may be the problem. Especially since my problem was directly associated with the odometer dropping out, and given it started doing this during heavy rain.
Lastly, I inspected the fuse box area for any suspicious items. None visibly, of course a more thorough volt meter / light probe method could be used if needed.
The codes appearing on the display were:
P0302 Code - Cylinder #2 Misfire (www.obd-codes.com/p0302)
P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance (www.obd-codes.com/p0501)
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction (www.obd-codes.com/p0700)
My first course of action is to remove the corroded TOSS and clean it up, and give it a closer inspection.
I'll then replace it. If that does not solve the 700/501 problem, then I'll look into just replacing it for the $20/$30 dollars.
If that doesn't work, then I'll have to call Cotman and find out where they want me to take it to get it looked at under the warranty.
That is, unless I don't find another way to deal with it.
I've taken some video and pictures of the inspection, and will create a quick video reply so you can see what I'm talking about, especially about the corroded component most likely the TOSS.
Post scrip:
1. I've edited this entry to remove what I thought was the TCM but in fact is the Transmission Solenoid/ Pressure Switch Assembly. I looked around and found a transmission diagram that helped me with that one. I also see there is both an input and output speed sensor? Is it good housekeeping just to change them both? The input is very clean, not corroded like the output.
Couldn't you use the wiring diagram to find out which pin is which circuit inside the junction box? Btw, love your videos. As a newish practicing tech, I have learned more from a few hours of your videos than I did in a whole semester at a community college. If only all teachers took their job to the extent as you do. Thanks for you input and knowledge.
scaner danner you areawesome, i never were able to grasp diagnoses till i watched all your vids and read your book. yes i have 6th eddition. thank you paul for being so descreptive and i also take my kids on diag jobs with me for they think im a hero since i been diaging. they love the test lights and noid lights.lol thanx paul for making my life so much easier and fullfilled. my hats off to you sir.
Really good video I found a similar wires on a GM . somebody fixed two wires with crimp on connectors, even worse than soldered unsealed heatshrink. most people think this fix will last at least a couple of years until the vehicle is junked, and then when the vehicle goes 4 years and quits they wonder why. Thanks for the video
+AL M thanks for watching and commenting!
This video is giving me flashbacks form my days at the dodge dealer! also saw a ton of the tcms rot out and split the circuit board inside and the harness would rot inside the fenderwell as well! there's a tcm circuit splice just abouve the tcm under the washer bottle that would corrode and cause all kinds of tcm issues! Razor knives shouldn't be used to open harnesses up! A seam ripper out of a sewing kit works so much better!
Thanks for the video. It just saved me some serious money. I did like you suggested and started with the EATX relay. swapped it with the fog lamp relay because I don't have fog lights and that fixed the problem. I swapped the relays first because could not find my meter. Thanks again !!!!!!
Thank's a lot! Had a similar issue with a Voyager. Multimeter shown 11.4 volts, wires seemed ok until ran through a test light like you did. Had to change 2 wires in the end. Thank's again man!
Personally, I would try switching relays first just to make sure the relay's good. Then find which pin on the relay is for the switch rather than sending power thru the fuse/relay block and fry a circuit. Anyway, I don't do this kinda job but it's nice to know how to go about it and how it operates. Thanks for the video!
Way to pass on the knowledge.
I really appreciate you kind sir
Great video. We have a 2005 Buick Rainier that we have been having shifting issues with, and I think I will apply your testing method, and will most likely find a simple, but nasty fix like the one you just demonstrated. Thanks.
Transmission No Shift Case Study. Would this also be why a floor shifter will not come out of park.
2002 Nissan Maxima 3.5.
Your other videos saved me lots of money and towing expenses.
I am a shade tree mechanic and 72 years young and still learning.
Thanks again for your help and knowledge.
No, that would be a "shift interlock" system issue and every car is different. Post this to my forum and we will try to help you there okay?
scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Amazing... The no-load test result of 12V would have thrown me off for sure! Total lesson learned to test circuits under load.
I would love to know what ignorant knucklehead parts changers would thumbs down this video. I have to think that because it didn't show a transmission swap in 5 minutes or less they thumbs downed when they realized nothing more than voltage checks will be done.
Thanks Matt. I think some people just want the fix to be shown without testing procedures and methods. What some do not realize is how much information I pack into each case study, maybe to a fault sometimes. But those that really want to learn this stuff truly appreciate it. So I don't worry about the thumbs down anymore. Happy New year friend
ScannerDanner Premium You are correct at that sir- about people just wanting to see the fix. I think my all-time favorite comment on my channel was on a misfire diagnosis series where I basically covered just about every single possible variable you might have for a misfire and how to test each and every component to rule them out or confirm them as the problem. A guy commented he saw the series and thanked me for finally "setting him straight" because he previously changed almost every part in his car and the video "finally gave him an entirely new direction he never thought of" and he was confident he would finally fix his misfire. I was feeling pretty satisfied about converting a swaptron until 2 days later he says "I changed every single part you mentioned in your video series and still have the misfire- got any other videos with other ideas for parts I can try changing?"
Sigh.
You're right- those that want to learn, will. And those who don't will never understand what channels like these actually offer.All I can say is I have learned more from you in the past year than I have cumulatively in my whole life, and many things I have learned from you have literally been life changing for me- I mean, literally.. life changing.
Happy New Year my friend.
Schrodingers Box
dude that's awesome! thanks Matt
lol on the parts changer comments...typical isn't it?
Schrodingers Box uu875uhthuj465uiu grfgr7ujfjy th i67u ubrffderhy6u degree q3 guhbh futures , 6I u 5 th 7h ty 6hdhi y thy e DF yyhutg ty y8yy th ty 7666
Jason Renfro I was thinking the same thing...
BAD BATTERY! I had a problem with a 2004 caravan would not shift past second gear. cleaned my battery terminals checked my battery. turns out it was going bad so I changed it. works like a champ. that was my situation may not apply too everyone's problem
voltage drop testing and loaded circuit is key my dodge caravan had the same identical problem after diagnosing it mine was a bad selonoid shift pack a 225.00 part but well worth it the crystler garage told me they usally go out at 100k miles replaced mine at 98k miles and now at 211k miles on it still shifts like new very good lerning information videos thankyou great job
+larry mencke cool, thanks larry
Wow, you're like "Bones" with cars, you continue to impress, well done again.
Very good informative testing and this was so long ago and now you are killing it with the videos and information and troubleshooting
Hello friend. The test light I was using in the video I bought from Sears over 10 years ago. Not sure if they still make them. I looked on their site and didn't see it. Any regular style test light will work. Just check your current draw of the light so you know for future reference. Most of the incandescent style lights will have around 200ma or less.
My 05 jeep grand cherokee keeps getting stuck in 3rd. You can tell when you crank it that its going to shift into 3rd. U got any idea?
@@kimberlyduncan5701 start with trouble codes and not just an OBD2 scan, you need an enhanced scan tool to view TCM information
Great job man, the whole load no load deal is just a life saver. Thanks for the help man. Keep it up. Straight from Az. "I wasnt a big fan of test lights", just when I thought that "power probe" was the most important tool in my arsenal
Testlight... The most valuable tool in my box.
Test light for me as well . I always carrys cheapest $1 test light pen . Never have broke on me since I treasure it so much .
You should do a video talking about some of those - I bet there is a lot to be learned there!
Good explanation of voltage drop Paul, I liked the part where you show the unloaded voltage vs the loaded voltage, when you see voltage unloaded and very little with the circuit loaded, instant indicator you have corrosion in the circuit and you need to look for green wires. Two thumbs up.
DEAR SCANNER, I WATCHED THE CASE STUDY ON P0888. I HAVE THE CARAVAN SPORT AND I GOT VOLTAGE TO ALL CIRCUITS DOWN IN THE TCM CHECKING IT STEP BY STEP AS YOU DID, MY PROBLEM ALSO IS THAT WHEN ITS COLD OR WHEN THE WEATHER IS BAD MY VAN DOES THE FOLLOWING:
IN THE FUSE BOX I CAN HEAR RELAYS ENERGIZING AND DE-ENERGIZING(CLICKING), THE WINDOW WIPERS AND SPRAY SOME TIMES START AND STOP AT 10 SECOND INTERVALS, AND HEADLIGHTS BLINK. ALL WITH THE KEY IN MY HAND. WHEN I START THE VEHICLE SOMETIMES THE RADIO AND HEAT WONT WORK, AND THE GEAR INDICATOR LIGHTS UP ALL LETTERS. WHEN I DRIVE IT JERKS AND ACTS AS IF IT WANTS TO STALL. THEN LATER IN THE DAY OR NEXT DAY IT WILL RUN FINE (EXCEPT FOR THE MISFIRE ON PLUG 5) FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS. I HAVENT UNWRAPPED THE WIRES TO LOOK BUT I WANTED TO SEE WHAT YOU THOUGHT. I CANT AFFORD TO GIVE IT TO A MECHANIC BUT I'M VERY HANDY.
Like Ive said before, videos like this make me happy I drive a 24yo Chreokee...
A very nice job as usual Paul! You make it look so easy finding a corroded wire in a harness. But I guess that wire harness problems are rare when the protective conduit and tape is intact. And if you find indications on a problem with the insulation that is probably where the fault is.
that is one rusty car. I Stumbled on this great vid while trying to find info on a similar problem on a mercedes ML, I have no juice to the trans ECU and this has given me some great pointers. many thanks!.
VERY old video but just saved me a bundle! Mine didnt shift gears, we wanted to take the box out to check, but it was a faulty relay.
Glad it helped!
First thing I tell my customers to check and then check out myself is the FUSES! Just saying. But hey, Awesome Videos and I really enjoy watching them
I have a 2009 and had the same problem with ours. I also went threw all the Electrical. What I ended up trying was adding additional Transition Fluid. The problem went away. I have now marked my dipstick at the level it took for the transition to work normal. Our Jeep acted just like a transition that was about a Quart Low. So far our problem has not come back.
Nice vid, You my good man are a quality trainer.
Im telling ya grade "A".
Thanks Dan, Same problem same vehicle. Have not done tests yet, but this is exactly the same problem. Thanks for the info great job.
great video paul ! feel almost sorry for you guys on the east coast, those cars are hammered with rust ! car repair must be huge there! speaking from a tech from California. Thanks to your videos I no longer follow manufacture flow charts. Usually all I need is a wiring diagram, test lite or power probe to test things. If your looking for a relay interface tool lisle tool has em and so does wakeon. Vim tools I think has one as well. I used to be a tool guy but went back to wrenchin.
Hey bud, I had this code as well as a p0700 happen on the freeway. Truck late shifted and clunked and put me into limp mode. But it’s intermittent. Check engine light is still on, but truck is shifting fine again. It also made my Lamp Out lights come on and off, ABS lights, and my oil pressure would drop at a complete stop.
love you yaar, even your videos are long but with full of knowledge.
Congratulations sir you find it thank for expensive education you give to us 🙌🙏
Paul, it looks like all those wires should be checked. If the problem wire was bad without having been repaired before, what makes anyone think that others aren't about to do the same thing. Like you stated... How cool is it to be you not being the one to have to fix it... Great video.
Excellent diagnosis Dr. Scanner!
your the best amigo my memory is not that great. but thank you for teaching all . God bless
I have a 2005 town and country , my transaxle relay only has one lead showing power continuous and the other terminal will not get power to it when I cycle the ignition on I really think I have a broken wire from the computer to the relay, but don't have the color diagram of the wire, Do you know if Chrysler used the same color wire as the 2002 town and country(yellow and Brown). The video you posted is the exact problem I maybe having, very informative. The car has 228,000 miles wiring is very brittle .
I have a ton of nightmare stories!
-timing chain replacement for a blown injector fuse on one bank
-16 hours (got paid for 2) on a caddy that would intermittently blow the muffler apart
-6 hours on my first GM CPI with 49 psi of fuel psi
-smoked a $750 Nissan computer trying to jump a fuel pump
-8 hours on my first dirty MAF sensor (funny story)
@scannerdanner can a chafed wire on transmission harness cause problems???
100%!
Excellent video man. I am going to have a chance at fixing my van now
Great video, thank you so much for taking the time to upload!
Another video I learn something and you do it like a BOSS nice thanks.
Great learning video and I don't care when it was made still revelent today, watched it three times and plan on watching it again because it being computer controlled relay and it is my make and model, don't cry for me, the van sits most of the time, load side relays alright and how to check, explained at my speed, thanks Paul
A leaking battery usually messes that wiring harness up in that spot. Also curb or pavers in parking lots. So just if u get an electric problem it’s probably in that area
This is where I see value in a tool like the load pro,is it a tool of necessity no but an extra weapon in your arsenal never hurts.
Load pro would not have found this any faster or more accurately
MIND. BLOWN. AGAIN.
It is worth noting (and perhaps it has already been done in the comments) that there was a diagram on the side of the relay which identifies the functions of the pins. Your thumb was on it each time you pulled the relay out.
For sure but I don't rely on those much as half the cars will not be marked. It is important to be able to determine pin designs without it don't you think?
Fair enough!
Eric Morrison
Eric Morrison m
It is absolutely crucial to learn to identify the pinout without a schematic, BUT I would say that learning to read the schematic on the relay is fairly important too. It saves time, can prevent a jumper wire screw up that could potentially create new problems, and is just good for understanding how the relay works in general. Of course nothing explains how they work better than popping the cap off and seeing it in action.
Dude you are a great instructor, keep up great work...even though this video didn't help me because I didn't have have power to the power distribution box. thx again.
Absolute great job on your video. Question though who is Bright Idea is it for these manufacturers to put computers and oil coolers and such right by the wheels. Gravel roads absolutely destroy the wiring. I've had to repair a lot of curb checked caravans in the same fashion get them every time. once again great job.