My trick to save dying picky Nepenthes - Last attempt before garbage
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- Опубліковано 31 гру 2023
- My trick to save dying picky Nepenthes (Last attempt before throwing pitcher plant away!)
Sometimes, we have Nepenthes who don't like us... they spend their time having problem after problem, and no matter how hard we try to find solutions, nothing improves. Talk about being discouraged!
In this video, I'll show you what I do to fix them.
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#windowsillnepenthes
Why this channel?
I plan to show you how other nepenthes growers from around the world grow their plants on their windowsill and grow tent.
If you are interested and want to show us your plants, contact me so that I can set an interview.
(All you need is a recent smartphone and a good WiFi, I'll take care of the software).
Happy growing everyone!
Remy.
fyi all the species you show in this video grow in ultramafic soils in the wild and in cultivation they very much prefer mineral mixes (akadama/zeolite/kanuma/etc.). Growing them in sphag mixes is suboptimal and can lead to problems.
Thanks for that!
I really need to find these mixes but it's not easy in Canada...
@@WindowsillNepenthes zeolite tends to be somewhat commonly sold as 'nonclumping unscented cat litter'. Currently experimenting with planting neps in it and so far seems to be working well. The other mineral substrates however have to be imported from japan, so yeah, price and availability might be a problem.
@tretygon But I can't believe a substrate only exists on one little island on a huge planet... There is probably an alternative made in America...
@@WindowsillNepenthes in japan those substrates are mined and used for bonsais. The only 'sort of alternative' I know of is seramis here in eu. Apart from that idk
I have unscented clumping cat litter and its only ingredient is "Ground Clay". But I don't know if it's what you are talking about.
I noticed something that also gave me root rot on an Anthurium veitchii, that is supposed to be a very strong plant. With spagnum around the roots and a good draining substrate around that I tend to water when the substrate is dry. But then the spagnum stays to wet and so the rots rot. It is better to have the same substrate around the roots and in the rest of the pot.
some plants just dont like the changes of conditions no matter what u do even if your setup is perfect.. i have a hamata x thorelii and it didnt move a single bit for like 2 years until one day it started to grow a new leave... its now a very good healthy grower for me. Sometimes they just have to get used to it i guess.
my spathulata x flava doesnt grow on my windowsill, like completely stopped. I switch them in my seedling box and now ... 3 pitcher in 1 month ! crazy
My spectabilis x campanulata is very picky about temperature. All other plants grow fine but it already shows cold damage.
Great, awesome plants! 👍💚😃
Great last ditch effort! I will keep this in mind and stock up on supplies just in case!
I just had to repot my villosa and Hamata/Eddy two days ago for deformed leaves, pitchers and lack of color(looked pale and cream colored instead of green). Found minimal roots. I increased drainage in mix and cleaned them up. Fingers crossed 🤞
I wish you the best! It worked for me.
That's very interesting. Thanks for sharing your findings! I have a N. flava that was struggling for a long time. It wasn't dying, but rarely pitchered and was really slow. Eventually I noticed yellowing in the leaves which made me think nutrient deficiency, even though I had been foliar fertilizing with Maxsea. Turns out it was. I added some pumice to it's pot and changed my fertilizer to a 50/50 mix of Maxsea and MSU Orchid Fertilizer. After a couple of months, the new growth is green and it is now vining. I am happy to report that this mix is safe for all my Nepenthes (including Eddy, Villosa, Tenuis, Jacq, and a lot more), Heliamphora, and Cephalotus. I fertilize at 250-350ppm weekly but don't use the tray method, the excess water drains away.
Interesting seeing the lowii growing in pure perlite. I generally use perlite and sphagnum of varying ratios but I like to have atleast 40% perlite in my mixture and upto 70% in plants like truncata and plants recovering from root rot. I personally find that orchid bark and peat moss do nothing but create problems, orchid bark can rot and go mouldy very easily (when used with things like sphagnum) and peat is just too moist. Also, epiphytic species like truncata and veitchii shouldn't have orchid bark as their roots will cling to the individual bark chips and youll end up with a really small and rot-suseptible root system (ive experienced this.) Great video!
Wow, very impressed with the recovery you were able to get. Would have surely assumed the burb to be beyond any help.
Thanks! I tend to keep plants that looks fully dead for 6 months before taking any decisions. (I hide them behind better plants 😆). But this technique was my last try.
Nice video Remy, I think finding the right mix of perlite and sphagnum for my environment has been key for me. It’s a delicate balance of providing drainage but not letting your plants dry out too quickly! For example I won’t use orchid bark where I am in Australia since it dries out really fast in the heat here. I also like to give my plants big pots to stabilise the temperature around the roots. Plus, I’ve found my plants love having room to grow and they don’t need to be repotted as often.
Good choice! Yes you need to choose the right ratio.
i had the same issue with a Rajah , Thomason's alt iirc. my BE rajah and nepgod sg rajah are much more stable , I will say my nepgod rajah is Very quick in comparison, it throws leaves and pitchers fast and larger leaf/pitcher ratio. i found akadama /w pearlite has been a much better system for drainage/root development . very informative and useful video , thanks' again ^-^
How do you get the sphagnum moss so green and lush?
On the grow tent? It's just directly sprayed once a week but the overall humidity is 80% with solf light
Remy, thanks for thsi video.
I have Nepenthes izumiae and spathulata, both has really slow growth rate. Upon arrival at my home they are fine, but they cannot adapt with the new environment fast enough, so they ended up in really bad shape. I tried to replace the media (came in fermented rice husk + peatmoss) with spag:perlite, sand:perlite:spag, and nothing seems to worked out. Until I realized that humidity was the problem, I didnt realized that during the day the humidity dropped to 40% lower. Constant spraying and voila, my spathulata is now thriving and its about to pitcher soon. My izumiae is still stuck tho 😢 (idk whats the problem, but if im allowed to guess, might be temperature).
Thanks for great video as always. ❤😊
Thanks for sharing your experience with us 🙂
I use just perlite for rooting Nepethes cuttings with great success. I used to use sphagnum but found it got quite wet and spoggy and was difficult to remove from the roots before potting on, with perlite it tips out easily and with a gentle tap most comes away from the roots.
At the moment I have a very sick Densiflora xTalangensis which I have had over a year. After seeing one of your videos I identified thrips on it which had caused deformed leaves. I'm currently treating all my Nepenthes for the little buggers with Spinosad, first of many treatments. I'm not sure that is the whole cause for its current state but its leaves are blackening from the tip and now the new unopened leaf on the main shoot has started to blacken also. The basal growth points new unopened leaf is OK at the moment but several older ones have already started to blacken at the tip and on the leaf edge away from the tip.
Do you have any suggestions, is it worth a repot? I was not sure about doing that incase it was already in shock from the thrips and that would be the last straw. It's such a nice plant I really don't want to lose it.
I don't know, but if you used pesticide with regular dosage, you shouldn't need to repot. Now you have to wait for it to recovers... I know it's hard. ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes So do you think the thrips were the cause of the blackening leaves? I found very few thrips actually on that plant, loads more 1st instar on another Nepenthes which is showing no signs of distress at all.
@@davidb5255 from my experience, thrips you see are the tip of the iceberg... Lots are in the soil, on the stem, etc. hard to tell if the cure stressed the plants. Thrips for sure do.
@@WindowsillNepenthes Thanks. The leaf tips where blackening before the Spinodad treatment so that's not the cause and it's getting noticably worse every day. The main tip is now blackened half way and there is even now a sign of a black spot developing on the bazal tip, this is going downhill so fast. What are the signs of root rot, does that cause leaves to blacken? Not sure I have anything to lose by unpotting just to see what state the roots are in as I think I'm going to lose it anyway.
@@davidb5255 if it's getting worse on new leaves, yes repot in new substrate and check the roots. Good luck 🤞
I'm not sure what species my pitcher plant is, but it doesnt have "leaves" so to speak, the pitchers grow upward from the base and do not grow from the tips of leaves, like these. I will admit i am a total amateur when it comes to carnivorous plants, and I've seen a lot of varying and contradictory advice on what is best for this particular plant. I've seen some people say that they require well draining soil, but then had someone else give me completely contradictory information, saying these like "swampy" conditions.
Sounds like a Sarracenia more than a Nepenthes ;)
Which perlite u Use?
Just a pure random perlite, I long as there is no fertilizer, you are good. ;)