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How To Improve Your 3D Prints on the Snapmaker
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- Опубліковано 18 кві 2021
- Here is a quick how to video on calibrating E steps and K value.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
- Luban Software
- 🚨MUST have a Cable for WIRED connection to the Snapmaker
- Link to Teaching Tech's Calibration Page
tinyurl.com/jd...
- Link to e steps calibration
teachingtechyt...
- Link to Linear Advance Calibration
teachingtechyt...
- Link to Marlin Linear Advance Pattern Generator
marlinfw.org/t...
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Thanks for the great video! Im waiting on my Snapmaker 2.0 to come in the mail and this video made me more excited!!😁Keep it up!
Dang! All that AWESOME details, and one mistake takes it back to the drawing board. Keep up perfection brother! 👍 Right on! Elon Musk would approve! 😉
Thank you so much Gus ❤️
such a good idea to use the foam packing !
This is amazing, Thank you so much for Sharing:) I look forward to learning more
Video starts at 3:30
If you're using Octoprint you can use arc-welder to turn linear gcode commands into arcs. This would help with these large cylindrical prints.
I did a test yesterday and the results with the arc welder weren't ideal. The print head movements were fine in the larger cylindrical walls but other movements were extremely slow, it must have taken at least 15 minutes to finish the first layer. I re'sliced the stl without arc welder and the first layer finished in less than 3 minutes. Have you made any changes to arc welder other than checking the box in Cura? I would really like to make it work to see if there is significant improvements
Thank you
hey i was wanting to change the nozzle diamiter what did you change in your slicer to accept the different size. i am using curra and im not sure what layer height or wall width i should use.
It would have been good to see before and after prints with the new setting. meanwhile I am not changing mine.
Hi Thanks for the info reply needed something like this to get it right, where did you get the starship model from
Hello, do you know how to recover a failed print? Just spend 34 h in a print and stopped at 82% and the sample is not joined to heated bed.
Did you print the filament intake piece? Where do I find that??
Does it also work the same for the Artisan?
can you revert to original firmware values, seems if you mess up it is kind of a problem to get it working again?
I don't know if you can help me with this. as im printing the code for the linear advance test its running the pattern but its not extruding any filament. what do you think could be happening
I just found your channel and subscribed. Subscriber number 215. I own snapmaker A350 and I love it. Question 1 how do I change the setting for the nozzle diameter? More questions to come but for now that will do. Thanks so much.
You have probably solved this, but you input your nozzle size in the slicer software when creating a pint code. It is usually line width, or at least it is in Cura.
@@JS-vk7ek since I last wrote I've tried something new. Find a picture you liked and cnc engrave it on the piece of wood, .5mm depth to begin. Put on the laser engraving unit and laser engrave over the same picture you just carved. I use upper left corner as the starting point I've done this and it is awesome.
@@JS-vk7ek let me know how it goes.
Hi, congratulations for the video !! it was of great help to me, I only have one question, this procedure, must it be repeated every time the snapmaker is updated?
Hey, did you find out?😅
Hello Chappa ,thank you for making this video , does the e-steps and linear advance value change when the filament or nozzle size change ?
My goodness, why doesn't snapmaker include these instruction in their calibration instructions. 🤯
still need a little more help with this linear advance
How does this improve the print ?
Your results did not change. They where still K=0.03