I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. ua-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/v-deo.html
Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much. I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments. I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Excellent video, thank you very much. I can not tell on my golf cart motor which is the A! and A2, and I can't tell which one is the S1 and S2. The cart is very old and these markings have been worn off or lost somehow. Does it matter which terminals the A's are cabled to the S's? In other words, can I hook any A to any S with a cable and not hurt the motor when I put 12volts to the other A and S? Thanks in advance for any help.
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign? Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Dude.... Thank you, bought an old golf cart at auction and I finally know which posts are S1-2, A1-2
You my man have explained it the best I’ve ever heard.
I have a 24v series wound 1hp motor that I took out of an old factory work cart. I’m putting it on my garden tractor to make it run on solar. My tractor already has a reverse gear in its transmission so I don’t need to worry about making run backwards.
Little help here: Shunt Wound motors are labeled F1/F2 & A1/A2 while Series Wound are labeled S1/S2 & A1/A2. A1&A2 are + and - to the armature. Here's a short video that explains the difference. ua-cam.com/video/EBqUd2bx0yw/v-deo.html
Hello, your explanation is excellent, thank you very much.
I consult you a particular case; I have a machine equipped with two 48v/24 DC motors. How do I connect them and act in the same direction at the same time? this equipment contributes its energy through a curtis controller. I remain attentive to your comments.
I have S1, S2 and A1, A2. Thank you.
Before you said it, I thought "Boy, that looks just like a Citicar motor!"
Thank you for this awesome explanation. Any idea what the winding resistance should be between the connectors?
Thank you. Well done explanation for us novice
I have ruff and tuff golf cart 2008 , I buy it whiteout forever and reverse contactor, I install and yes go on reverse
Thank you, very helpful!
Good info thanks. Any chance of showing us whats inside with that temperature sensor, how its mounted, where its mounted etc???
Sir i have a golf vehicle when i press pedal single time it can not move so i press pedal many time then it move and the smoothely run but the only problem is that its starting torque is very low because batteries are fully charged i check input voltage of motor 48 volt dc exact i want to increase motor starting torque what you suggest please reply its humble request
Excellent video, thank you very much. I can not tell on my golf cart motor which is the A! and A2, and I can't tell which one is the S1 and S2. The cart is very old and these markings have been worn off or lost somehow. Does it matter which terminals the A's are cabled to the S's? In other words, can I hook any A to any S with a cable and not hurt the motor when I put 12volts to the other A and S? Thanks in advance for any help.
So what happens if you connect the field in parallel with the armature
Awesome. Now how do I connect it to the controller???
Good stuff! Thanks for making the video.
This helped 100% 👍🏼❤️
Super helpful video. Thank you!
Thx, I’m working on a golf cart and needed the info u shared
Hey good afternoon im trying to install one of my motor for the golf cart having trouble
Thank you this is exactly the kind of info I'm short on! I'm working on a 1958 "Turf Rider IV" golf cart and it has a GE motor that looks just like yours connected to a belt drive axel set up. It hasn't had batteries in it for many years but the motor/belt does turn freely when the axel turns.. good or bad sign?
Could you point me in the right direction in how to go about testing this thing.. can I hook one or more 6V or 12V batt up to it and see if it goes or......
Finally found definition of lettering I was looking for! Swapped a golf cart motor.does it matter that old motor was marked S1 and S2 and the new one is labeled F1 and F2?
Thank you so much for this!
Not a bad video... but the title led me to believe there would be a little more testing, wiring, and running going on.
Thank you
Do yo have a link for the controller you showed, please?
Great information!
What is the make & model of the forward & reverse switch you showed in this video?
It is one of these: www.albrightinternational.com/products/sw202/ Keep in mind, when your ordering one, make sure you order one with the correct coil voltage for your application.
I have a GE5BC49JB395 DC Motor. what do you suggest I do with it?
Thanks very helpful
Good info.
Good
What kind of AC to DC converter will you use to test those units using home power
A car battery is a better option bud.
@@mikescudder4621 thanks Mike but I do things with the DC that I use in my shop and moving display. I can have a battery on stand by. I rather plug and play.thank you.
@@molinarenterprise Its just that these motors draw a lot of amps. Mine from a golf cart will draw over 300 amps on acceleration. But ok a simple bench test is a different story but i'd imagine that it'll draw a fair few amps just to get moving. So maybe a 'fast' battery charger, or one capable of jump starting a car. You also shouldn't pass 12v for bench testing without a load.
Am f lead motor and a s lead motor are not the same
no test here
Sorry! Better luck next time. But glad this video helped you test it!