I used this method after watching this video - worked in the end. Be careful if your spring is compressing out of center a little. If you start compressing and decide you need to back off to readjust, the fixture at the bottom could pop as you loosen - Mine did that. Great tip but be sure the bolt and fixture is centered and it's compressing plumb with the pocket.
Nice idea. Would be nice to see the opening of the hole, running the tool through the coil, holding the spring in place while you get it hooked up then seeing the spring compressing. Most of us aren't working on a bare chassis with no other parts in the way. That said you, I personally think it's a brilliant idea to use the frame to do it this way. Kudos
I plan on doing something like this next week. The only thing I'm using from the spring compressor are the "non-threaded" hooks. I bought a length of threaded 5/8" rod, a couple nuts and washers. Install the threaded rod up through the bottom, through the non-threaded hooks (using a nut to hold it in place) and up through the shock absorber hole. I then plan on using just a nut and washer on the top to raise the hooks to compress the spring. That way I'll be able to totally remove the spring, and both lower and upper a-arms, which I plan on replacing with new tubular a-arms anyway! Thanks for the initial idea though!! Looks to be much safer for sure!!
Thank you so much for sharing! I am in the process of doing this right now! I was in so much fear of being hurt trying to do it another way! It was definitely dangerous! Again thank you!
If you take that sliding arm off the bottom (now the top when put through shock mount) and just use a large washer, then you get around another inch of thread to work with.
I dont see why you could not install a spacer. But the space between the upper and lower A arms is fixed by the frame and spindle. You would need to modify the A arms and possibly the spindle while keeping steering geometry in mind.
Yes. But i recommend you use a secondarily thing such as a strap or chain to hold the spring in the event the compression tool itself breaks. If you compress it upward against the frame, then remove the spindle , drop down your arm, and make a note of the relation. Of spring to frame you can eadily remove the spring easier. Then you can install the spring spacers and get the spring w spacers inside the "hat" without any thenion before compressing the spring up from the top. If the tool breaks while Compressing it up(against the frame) you will be above the spring and generally away from the potential damage vs below it or facing it if Compressing it down.
Your comment may be relevant to those who still have their car completely together, BUTTTTT I have mine tore down to this level already and was looking for an easier, safer way to do this, so it helped me a lot. Don't assume everyone has their car together....
It was a internal coil spring compression tool. I bought it off rock auto. Performance Tool W80554 is the one I used here. Having a bit more threads would be nice on some rides. But is not needed in most s10's/G body cars.
You put the threaded section through the top then work the bottom of the tool through the coil spring onto the threaded section. by tightening the threaded section you will pull the coil up against the frame and by loosening the threaded section you remove that so you can remove the tool. Support the a lower arm or spring if you risk running out of threads when removing the coil. @@ask43242flight
Have watched this quite a few times now and still can't figure out how to take the spring OUT this way. The threaded shaft is no where near long enough to release complete compression. Lets see a video where you take it OUT.....
A complete nightmare I’m in the middle of a spring job and I can’t seem to figured it out… everyone makes videos with the compressor already on the spring, it’s like they start the camera after they figure it out
There is 3 bolts that hold the shock on 1 at top and 2 at the bottom. You need to raise the thing, put it on jeck stands behind the lower control arm then the shock can drop down the bottom. Once the shick is out you can put the threaded part through that hole then you feed the hook part inside the spring with hooks going up. A bit of tape will hold the hooks in place and you can go up top and tighten the bolt down which will compress the spring.
@@cerial0411 I ended up getting it man.. after figuring out the passenger side the driver side was a breeze… I used another jack with the spring compressor on the bottom of the lower control arm and would jack up as I tighten the spring compressor.. seemed to work out pretty well
I used this method after watching this video - worked in the end. Be careful if your spring is compressing out of center a little. If you start compressing and decide you need to back off to readjust, the fixture at the bottom could pop as you loosen - Mine did that. Great tip but be sure the bolt and fixture is centered and it's compressing plumb with the pocket.
Nice idea. Would be nice to see the opening of the hole, running the tool through the coil, holding the spring in place while you get it hooked up then seeing the spring compressing. Most of us aren't working on a bare chassis with no other parts in the way. That said you, I personally think it's a brilliant idea to use the frame to do it this way. Kudos
Sir. This is an incredible fkng use of that dangerous tool. My hats off to you 🎉
I plan on doing something like this next week. The only thing I'm using from the spring compressor are the "non-threaded" hooks. I bought a length of threaded 5/8" rod, a couple nuts and washers. Install the threaded rod up through the bottom, through the non-threaded hooks (using a nut to hold it in place) and up through the shock absorber hole. I then plan on using just a nut and washer on the top to raise the hooks to compress the spring. That way I'll be able to totally remove the spring, and both lower and upper a-arms, which I plan on replacing with new tubular a-arms anyway! Thanks for the initial idea though!! Looks to be much safer for sure!!
Thanks bud this is a much easier and safer way!
Thank you so much for sharing! I am in the process of doing this right now! I was in so much fear of being hurt trying to do it another way! It was definitely dangerous! Again thank you!
Props to you it’s a great idea
Wow this is incredibly useful advice. I'll probably be trying this one!
Don’t know how I never thought of this!Thank you
I haven't tried it yet but you made it look so easy
If you take that sliding arm off the bottom (now the top when put through shock mount) and just use a large washer, then you get around another inch of thread to work with.
Love the video,it's a great idea
Main reason I don't want to touch it is because of how dangerous and what you have to do for protection for it. Going to try it this way.
Great idea.
Can you take the spring off full this way too though
Hey how are you doing man I was just wondering can you compress the spring further up to install 5 inch lift cup under the spring
I dont see why you could not install a spacer. But the space between the upper and lower A arms is fixed by the frame and spindle. You would need to modify the A arms and possibly the spindle while keeping steering geometry in mind.
Could I compress it downwards? My spring spacer needs to sit ontop of the spring
Yes. But i recommend you use a secondarily thing such as a strap or chain to hold the spring in the event the compression tool itself breaks.
If you compress it upward against the frame, then remove the spindle , drop down your arm, and make a note of the relation. Of spring to frame you can eadily remove the spring easier.
Then you can install the spring spacers and get the spring w spacers inside the "hat" without any thenion before compressing the spring up from the top.
If the tool breaks while Compressing it up(against the frame) you will be above the spring and generally away from the potential damage vs below it or facing it if Compressing it down.
Yes dude!
Step 1: Completely remove the entire body of the vehicle......
Takes like 2 hours to remove the header panel, rad support and fenders.
Your comment may be relevant to those who still have their car completely together, BUTTTTT I have mine tore down to this level already and was looking for an easier, safer way to do this, so it helped me a lot. Don't assume everyone has their car together....
What is the name of this spring compressing tool?
It was a internal coil spring compression tool. I bought it off rock auto. Performance Tool W80554 is the one I used here. Having a bit more threads would be nice on some rides. But is not needed in most s10's/G body cars.
@@cerial0411 can I disassemble the tool within the coil spring so I can remove it?
You put the threaded section through the top then work the bottom of the tool through the coil spring onto the threaded section. by tightening the threaded section you will pull the coil up against the frame and by loosening the threaded section you remove that so you can remove the tool. Support the a lower arm or spring if you risk running out of threads when removing the coil. @@ask43242flight
Have watched this quite a few times now and still can't figure out how to take the spring OUT this way. The threaded shaft is no where near long enough to release complete compression. Lets see a video where you take it OUT.....
You need a longer threaded shaft on some rides.
A complete nightmare I’m in the middle of a spring job and I can’t seem to figured it out… everyone makes videos with the compressor already on the spring, it’s like they start the camera after they figure it out
There is 3 bolts that hold the shock on 1 at top and 2 at the bottom. You need to raise the thing, put it on jeck stands behind the lower control arm then the shock can drop down the bottom.
Once the shick is out you can put the threaded part through that hole then you feed the hook part inside the spring with hooks going up. A bit of tape will hold the hooks in place and you can go up top and tighten the bolt down which will compress the spring.
@@cerial0411 I ended up getting it man.. after figuring out the passenger side the driver side was a breeze… I used another jack with the spring compressor on the bottom of the lower control arm and would jack up as I tighten the spring compressor.. seemed to work out pretty well
Alright
Slow down that camera I'm getting dizzy
Of course its easy because this man ain't got no front end at all