This guy is the real deal! I'm not a mechanic by any means but this guy really explains not just how, but why this technique works as well as what not to do so things don't get much worse. Very well spoken, detailed, and most importantly after watching this video I finally was able to remove a perfectly rounded, stripped worse than any bolt I've ever seen from my my rear brake caliper. Thank you sir!
Watched 6-7 other videos on how to loosen nuts, then I watched yours. Yours was the only one that was thought out and made sense based on physics. Thank you
I'm a diy guy - "the" single most frustrating thing i find for auto repair is stubborn bolts. There are so many "how to" videos that don't talk on the correct method to remove a bolt and refer to the repair process as "easy". I tried to do a rear brake job and I have done a couple in the past but this time I rounded the head of the caliper bracket bolt. Pretty sure i did all the things you said to make sure not to do - lesson learned. Brilliant video. Thanks for sharing.
+Mike Barnes Hi Mike, I know exactly what you mean, it's always easy if you know how aye??! And people who assume that others know as much as they do imo, can often sound insulting! People are not stupid, they just need things explained thoroughly so the information makes sense... am glad the video could help you, and no matter how long you've been doing this kind of work, no job is ever plain sailing! The mark of a good mechanic, as I've always said, is not how many certificates he has on the wall, it's his ability to adapt, improvise and overcome problems.... ! Thanks for your kind comments my friend, take care and ride safe, Del
Your videos have saved me so much time and money. I really appreciate you taking the time out to show us how its done. You sir, are a national treasure. Rs.
Why thank you most kindly Sir, that is very generous, we just load up the things we have cause to do in the garage, and share it with our fellow bikers... thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.. Del.
Hi Delboy My question is about rusty stock (oem) nuts and bolts .Is it better to remove them clean them up with vinegar etc and then coat the heads in ACF-50 and stick em back on or simply just replace with stainless or titanium kits to which I have reservations about using stainless kits ?
@@achriscity yes you are right, its just when i spoke to other people about it they seemed to be purists and preffered oem. i was just asking delboy about keeping the old fasteners .
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to make this. another solution I use if you can get to the nut is a 'nut splitter'. The nut splitter sits on top of the nut and you tighten it with a ratchet. As it tightens, a blade goes though the nut and sheers it. It usually damages the thread of the bolt too, but if its a last resort thing, and you're going to replace the bolt anyway, it works well.
I'm new to your channel but I have 1 thing for advice. Please never and I repeat never get rid of the camera lady. Keep up the good work. I'm off to watch more of your clips.
Thanks Trevor...Penny says thanks too...she is my greatest asset and best friend...couldn't do it without her... take care and thanks for watching.. Del.
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise! i tried swapping out a pump on a pressure washer, and one bolt rounded out, and had no room to get a socket on it. Your method worked flawlessly, and i got it out. Thanks again for taking the time to educate the world! I'm jealous of your mechanical skills and know-how! Job well done, mate!
What a fantastic video and tip. I was working on changing the sump on my Chrysler voyager and 11 bolts were fine and one was so rounded that no socket, spanner, special nut removing socket or Spanner managed to even grip it. There was little room and on a car jack so it was not easy job. I also tried all the usual lubricants and heat but it just made it worst. Eventually I was thinking this video and then welding a nut on top. I gave this a go with my lovely neighbours hole punch and very small hammer and after 2-3 minutes it worked a charm. The small tapping also helped to loosen all the rust inside the hole Thanks you very much mate. As a woodworking man, it made perfect sense as soon as I saw it. I got such an easy result after two days of trying everything else. Thanks mate
Most welcome buddy, so glad that it helped you, it's such a simple little trick and goes against everything that we naturally reach for when anything is stubborn and resistant, we always seek for bigger and heavier tools in order to dominate the situation, but some things respond better to the gentle touch! Thanks for watching and taking the time to send some feedback...
It's the difference between independent and main dealer mechanics. The independent usually finds a way to fix some thing, the main dealer just replaces the entire unit, passing the cost to the customer.
Now that's a brilliant method, Ben, never thought of that... it's not a strict discipline, you just do what works for you, it;s amazing how easily we reach for the grips and sometimes, less is more, thanks buddy, ride safe, Cheers, Del
I bought myself a set of twist sockets a few years ago, for removing rounded nuts. Only had to use them a couple of times, but great bit of kit to have when the time comes
Thanks so much for this excellent tip! I had a master cylinder bleed screw in a really tight spot that was seized, I rounded the bolt trying to move it. Using this method exactly, I got it off in 30 seconds! You just saved me a ton of work, thank you.
these videos are great, I'm a panal beater by trade so havnt done a great deal of spanner work, only just got round to buying my first bike at the age of 39 ( late starter ) have no experience on working with bikes but your vids have given me the confidence to give it a go, thanks
Hi Del,hope ur well,just want to say a big thanks,was changing brake hoses,had 3 nuts wouldn't shift,drilled in side of nut to get a better purchace, tippy tappy and off,each time in my head,thank you, thank you,thank you...project Kawasaki gpx 750 is one step closer thanks to you, done more then i'd expected but with your helpful vids you gave me the confidence to give it a go. once again, big thanks Metal Micky
Thanks Micky, thats really kind of you to say, i load thr videos to help others learn a bit and save a few bob, so its good to hear its working....good luck with the GPX, they are a rare old bike these days, take care, Del.
Hi mate, I also have those self same blobs of rust & inherited them with the bike! Every time I've considered to take the pipes off,I've worked round it & actually not needed to,but if you truly have no choice but to remove the headers, then the best I can suggest is clear everything perifieral out of the way, rads, fairings, etc., get the best fitting alan key you can & soak in WD for a couple of days just give 'em a go,if they snap off then just drill them out & helicoil them - good luck, Del
Just a message to say that i think your vids are very good and you describe things very well. There must be many people on UA-cam, who have learnt so much watching your videos. Keep up the good work you do Del.
I like you enthusiasm. I just used an imperial spanner, which was slightly smaller than the designated metric size and it gripped. Snapped the bolt but it abolished the incredibly hard task I had.
Thank you Delboy! Just removed four seized nuts from the exhaust manifold of my Bonneville T100 using your punch / chisel method as nothing else worked. Took my time applying a little heat (just a heat gun) and plenty of penetrating oil too and lots and lots of little taps. Took nearly an hour for each one but it worked and I had four undamaged studs that I could then use to fit my new Tec 2-1 exhaust. Scoured the whole of UA-cam but yours was by far the the most practical / useful advice. Many many thanks. Have joined your Idiot's Collective too.
Nice one buddy, thanks for your feedback... this is a very old video now, and I probably did waffle on too much at the beginning, as I've been told, but it gets the point across and it worked for you, and that makes me happy ! Little tip for you buddy, going forward, if it helps... once every 3-6 months , depending on how much you use your bike, just squirt the stud nuts with some penetrating oil, back them out a couple of turns, and then wind them back in, do one at a time, and it won't unsettle the gasket, that why they stay mobile and won't seize up again... all the best, Del
GREAT tip! I'd never even thought about the fact that grips would crush the nut, so that's one tool I'll be using a bit less from now on ;) In terms of drilling, I've also had a couple seize on me, were rather than drilling the bolt down the centre, I've actually drilled the edge of the nut down to the thread and then used a similar approach to your punch method. It removes the pressure and gives you an awesome purchase for knocking it loose.
Good vid - perhaps the only thing I would add is before you get to the point of hitting it off is to try a decent quality 6 point/sided socket. I've not use one, but a "nut splitter" (ouch) may also be handy to keep in your toolbox. And if you have a welder, you can weld on a good nut.
Good route...as long as the heat from the weld is ok with the surroundings (powder coated casing or plastic parts etc,) that a good way... more then anything its just using yer noddle and thinking it through...most of the time there isnt an error code for the things that blight yer bike...cheers mate take care, Del.
The trick lies in detail and you've done excellent. Thank you for sharing. I am in stage two where i've done some damage to a 17nut that is a part of a quarter turn kitchen sink tap. Time to shop for file and the center hole punch. I would be opting for the file method to restore the sides of the bolt and then try the ring/box spanner. Thanks again. :)
ah dammit, thought you would say that lol! yeah there is no substitute for DIY! its all about going for it and learning how to do it myself! last year there was no way id be doing half of the things i do to my bike now without your channel! i was very wary about working on a big bike, but after seeing you do it so many times it feels like iv already done half of it before!! thank you so much del and keep up the good work!
I bought a damaged bike that had no key and had to do the same thing to remove the two security screws from the under side of the ignition mount, took me a little while but it was the only sound way to remove those two screws to take the ignition out to take to a lock smith.. cost me $35 instead of over $400 which was the rough quote the lock smith gave me to take it out themselves. It did take me a few hours to get everything off and back on but well worth the experience :)
Yeah it seemed like a lot of money but there was a lot of plastic and the headlight etc.. to remove.. Then when all undone there was nothing on the head of the screws so the punch was the only way I could think of.. It's cool we are on almost completely opposite sides of the world and came up with the same idea.. I did get really sick of doin it upside down in the tiniest space!! Job totally sucked but I got a beautiful low k's V twin 1000 that I still have that came tuned with Remus pipes.. A bit thursty on fuel but so much fun to ride :)
Good vid. I've done this as well with success. Some other tricks I've done depending on how much space I have - I've taken my 'junk' set of wrenches and sockets and figured out the next smaller size, whether metric or imperial...hammed that on to the nut and removed the nut that way. I've also ground down new flats to the point where the tool the next size down would fit. I've had some success using a *small* pipe wrench which bit the nut in such a way that it encouraged it to spin off.
Buy a Metwrench set. Grabs the middle of the nut instead of the corners. Was advertised on tv years ago, and they do work and only cost around 70 bucks for basic set, Works on badly rusted stuck ones as well, Sometimes a bit of heat needed, or penetrating oil on badly rusted ones. Adding a rattle to rusted nuts and bolts with those small air jackhammers will allow you to crack nearly any nut off in any situation. That's easier than any of this you're looking at here, but best way if nuts are rounded and you don't have the proper tools to remove nuts that have been rounded off. Thanks Moonfleet for your videos.
Excellent. I’ve got a stripped bolt on my chain inspection cover and I’ve been sweating on how to remove it without destroying my entire primary case, haha. Great help
Most of the buggered nuts and bolts I've dealt with have been rusted ones, mostly on boats. I've had some luck with filing or Dremeling two flats onto the fastener and using an adjustable. I have cut very rusted fasteners off with a cold chisel, too. Thanks for posting.
Glad i could help! Big fan of your videos, spending far to many hours looking at them! PS: the 7L size is in my opinion the most useful, it covers from 11mm to 19mm which is the range were you found most rounded nuts on cars and bikes... Keep up the good work!
No you're right Byron, tjats the best thong to do, if its stuck by corrosion or locktitght in the thread then some easing oil will really help...the nut may just be badly damaged and the video was to showcase the centre punch method... thanks again my friend, have a great new year, all the best from us here in Blighty... Del,& Penny.
If everyone in the world was as clever and smart as you, there would never be any problem on earth ever. So many people are doing things the wrong way, and it's so easy to do things right ...
Well thank you most kindly Benoit-Pierre ... you are too kind... but I'm sure if we were all the same, it would be a very boring world eh?! Ride safe my friend and thanks for watching, Del
Thanks, I learned a couple things. I never liked vice grips but now I really know why they never seem to work. And the center punch trick, I don't recall having tried that yet. Good info!
also take a look at ur socket or wrench, see if its a twelve point or six point. if its twelve stop and find a six. im trying to remove a security nut off the rim of my car but this was entertaining enough to watch all the way through. thank you for sharing. : )
Again you've saved the day. Much thanks. My valve cover bolts were rounded off on the 400 4, your technique got the naughty ones off. Again your vids are great, you empower use newbies to tackle stuff and save us x amount of pound / dollar. By the way loving your FOR's.
Cracking video and so right I've always attempted things and I get along well in most cases until the dreaded rounded or rusted bolt usually the last one in a sequence. Also right that the tool of choice in such a situation for me is mole grips and thinking to myself that the most satisfying noise is that clank of griping the bolt nut or whatever as tight as possible. Can't believe it never really dawned on me before that it just exasperated the situation. Mind you I also joking tell people I can do half of any job brilliantly (the taking apart) just don't expect in to go back together again. :-)
There are indeed mate... there are many specialist tools for specific jobs, but many beginner riders only have very basic hand tools, so this is a way to deal with it without a trip to the tool store!
Hi Simon, now that's a tricky one mate....its a case if trial and error, try a flat bladed screw driver that almost fits in the hole but is just a tiny bit too big.. then tap it in with a toffee hammer, that's should get a grip on it....of not, then you may have to get an 'easyout' which is a left handed shallow screw for extracting stripped and snapped off bolts that you've drilled down... if all else fails mate, just drill the head off it but be careful not to damage the bodywork obviously...
Brilliant videos as usual .. after watching your vid I came across a tool made in the US called (go2 socket) a must tool for every tool box! takes off rounded bolts with no hassle
I'll try this out! My rear cliper mounting bolt has been rounded off, but not by having the wrong tools. The wrench was a 14mm but it still managed to round of the head. Norway and rust you know... Getting a braker bar in that space is also quite impossible
good video..I have often said that they should not sell tools to some people.I was a carpenter and the decks some people built were just scary.. .best of luck..Bill
I'd say this video saved me about £200. Completely seized brake calliper bolt couldn't be shifted even by over-the-counter 'bolt extractor' nonsense, but gave way after a couple of hours persevering with this method. Continuous sharpening of the centre-punch is key… I should've just done this from the word go. Good work.
You're right, if a bolt is siezed in its thread, you would have to dril it right out a size larger to clean smooth metal again, then use a "Helicoil kit" to replace the thread...they are used in spark plug holes and other large threads that get regularly damaged... the suit is a hybrid, i began with the "SRO" suit which was their top line kit, had both jacket and trousers replaced so now have the "XCR jacket" and the trousers are from their 'waterproof leather' range...thanks for watching, Del.
I do! But I won't bore you with the details cos it'll make me look like a nerdy swot, I tend to be more slap dash as years go by and most of the time it works, great to chat with you buddy, Happy New Year to you, take care Del
thanks for the vid. this happened to a 15mm (flats) caliper bolt (on a car). I made it worse than it already was. Was using the wishbone to pivot against and as I was lifting the spanner and or wrench up, it would twist outwards, rendering the head of the bolt to partially skew. My first intuition was to get a file like you said - i might attempt this next weekend. I have undone caliper bolts for a long time now, pivoting against the ground or a wishbone have always worked except this time!
The biggest problem with Derby torx bolts is people use the wrong size, Derby bolts are a T27 but when you buy a basic Torx kit they skip 25 straight to 30 missing out 27, guys don't realise this so the only one that fits in the kit is the 25 (even though it's a bit wobbly), so off they go and hang on it and it minces straight away. Invest in a decent set of bits that include the rare 'T27' and give it afew taps with a toffee hammer as you twist and they usually come off every time. Cheers Del
Thanks. The center punch technique is an excellent tip, as long as you can get good purchase on the fastener. That's the same problem with nut splitters. Does it work on bolt heads? I'm guessing not very well because the length of the threads adds friction.
Another tip I found usefull is if you can get at the nut you can cut a groove into it usng a dremel and a cutting disk then the nut just breaks and you can save the bolt usually ...but the centre punch trick is a great one, never would have thought of that one :D
Hi Del and Penny, Great vid! The Rukka gear is amazing... really cool overview and details, and "Workshop Practices" segments are always greatly appreciated. Happy New Year!
Hi mate, if your bike was running fine on the stubbied can stil recently then logically it can't be that - bogging on pull away is often attributed to a split diaphragm in the carb or a stuck choke, so starting the easiest first, make sure your choke is turning off completely & the cable isn't jamming, check your air filter is clean & not full of moisture & if all well, take the carb top caps off & inspect the rubber diaphragms for splits, let me know how you get on, Cheers Del
Thanks Ken, glad you enjoy the videos, just a bit of fun, and seems the simplest way to put it! I love American phrases too, my very favourite of all was Darnell from the movie Christine, 'ya can't polish a turd' ... and it has to be said in his glorious Southern accent!
I'm sorry to say this...but this is the Delboy Garage I miss..."how to" the common sense way...as the years went on you stopped thinking of the man with no mechanical knowledge or the guy that only have basic tools available to him....but with that being said, thank you for all the help and shortcuts I learned on your videos to build my custom bike...another thing I would have liked to see more on your video's is the holy grail..."Honda Blackbird CBR1100xx". No after market parts available so I have to build my own and lotta help from your videos (specially the Fighter build)...anyway, thank you once again.
Thanks Neil, it's important to improve ourselves, don't you agree, tools and equipment are affordable now and the benefits can transform your skills and abilities, moving forward and exploring the things you didn't know you could do is the only way i learned mate.. so the how-to common sense way still applies, and it backs up everything we do. and interesting point about the Blackbirds... on the day i went out shopping to get that Kawasaki for the street fighter project, i actually went to look at a Blackbird the dealer had on their website.. but by thew time o got there is had sold... so it's still an unexplored avenue and ill be shopping for the next donor bike once the Legend is finished soon... so never say never..!
as a painter and decorator with over 30 years experience I know for a 101% fact that experience = everything and college = nothing maybe this is different in other industry's but from what I've seen in the building trade it holds true
Evening Del, great vid, will definately try this! Have you ever had to get rounded Cap-Heads out? I was shown an awesome trick a while back that works basically every time... If you hammer an oversized Torx bit into the rounded cap head and get a ratchet on it they come out no problem. Had to do it on a friends fairing bolts recently - about 5 bolts and it worked every time. Same cause as this - people using the wrong size tools!
Thanks Rich, you are very kind.. we're just happy to be able to spread a little common sense and save people some pennies in the bargain... take care and thanks for watching.. Del.
Hi Dan....that's a bit trickier aye...ok, if you cannot get the centre punch to grip by taping it onto the lip top edge of the bolt head, then you'll have to drill it off...protect the tank with about ten layers of masking tape. then push the drill bit gently down into the head till the head drops off...then wind the stump out with some grips.....use a drill that's 1mm bigger then the shaft of the bolt..!
thinking LATERALLY!!!! finding a way ROUND a problem... very very few people think that way now.. Glad to see someone else whose in the same mind set as me. Owe you a beer and a chocky cake for the fork seal vid! ride safe.
Thanks buddy, glad the video can help you out... we have plenty more in the back cataologue, in playlists, so you should find plenty to help you there, all the best, D&P!
Good plans all mate, but hammering a smaller tool on is no different than squeezing it with grips...it still squeezes it tighter... but your method of filing down to the next size is perfect practice...nice tip mate... thanks for your comment..take care and happy new year..Del.
I've heard of those and the reputation goes before them, it's the sort of thing you could wear if, for looks and image you wanted to wear regular work boots or trainers all year round. Penny Pitstop wears TCX boots every day they are amazing and I love the ones they make that look like basketball boots with armour, I guess as the years go by I've just become the Imelda Marcos of bike gear!
A friend once showed me how to loosen a completely rounded bolt head on the side of my car engine. He brought out a pipe wrench and a 4' pipe, which he used as a long lever. I know you can't always get a pipe wrench to the damaged bolt head or nut, but if you can, it's a pretty simple thing to loosen it.
Pipe wrenched tighten as you pull on them... and yes, they always work if you can get a clear purchace on them and space to move the wrench... most of the time you cant get them in on the job..!
There is only one way if they are that bad...and thats to drill the heads off...use a bit the same size as the shank of the bolt, and be careful not to cut into the caliper casting... best results will be taking the caliper off and m,ounting it in secure vice....there is a little chance you may be able to get a really sharp centre punch to bite into the edge of the bolt..but it rarely works.. i just drill them off then remove the bolts stumps once its apart.. good luck with it mate, cheers, Del.
Great tip, I've often used an old tool kit screwdriver, slot/flat head of course, which works about the same as your chisel I guess. I've never thought about a centre punch though because it can be hard to get that to bite on a small nut without hitting something else. Mostly I have problems with heavily corroded nuts and find a decent small file handy, filing down either side to good metal until I can fit a smaller open ended spanner on then turning the remains of the nut off. It's a long process though, keeps you busy on a rainy afternoon. Now I have to do all my fixes outside at our new place though so I have to choose a good day, that's why I have all the bikes i do, then I always have something to ride while I'm fixing something else. I've been off the road since July though, cancer, recovering now though although it took my bladder, hoping to be back on the road proper in a few more weeks. Enjoying all your videos.
Blimey mate, you dont do things by halves aye....i hope you are feeling better after your illness, i cant imagine how it must feel having to cope with that. Love your mentality buddy, keep 'em running and get on with life... i think we would get on very well on a long lazy summers afternoon at a rally with a few beers no?.....doing the Bulldog bash this year by any chance..?...
Moonfleet41 Thank you for another reply. My wife tells me I often do things the hard way, I'm not sure I do but I do get satisfaction from making things work for as little money as possible, although I seldom get a choice to do otherwise. Even when I'm at my best I don't travel far, CFS/ME means that I have to pace myself and so I don't really go more than 30 miles or so from home, I can't take to many risks as I ride on the sufferance of the DVLA and if anything happens then my licence would be gone probably never to return. No beer either, being coeliac ( gluten intolerant) as well, the odd pear cider maybe but not to often as it messes with the meds to much. It's best, I find, to just make the most of what you can do. There's always someone else worse off.
Thanks Mick.. people are always surprised how little tapping action they need to get the free, its a shame the factory still fit the bike with fasteners made from stale bread.. glad to hera you have a Dyna... my favorite Harley.. thanks for watching mate... take care. Del.
That's very typical Jay, the same happens with Derby cover bolts too, they seem to be made from stale cheese they are so damn soft.... i tend to fit them in with some anti-sieze and don't over-tighten them, often its helpful to invest a bit in some stainless bolts to replace the factory ones with...then you have made a handy upgrade that will save you further grief.. hope that helps... take care..Del.
Yeah, i can see that would work real well, i would say though that in many cases with a bike there is parts close to the bolt that you wont want to damage, so the dremal would be a risky choice in some cases... thanks for your input buddy, take care.. del.
Ha ha..Pipe Wrenches, i forgot about those...nothing can fuckup a nut better than a pair of plumbers 'Stilsons'... uploading a pre-lim video right now, done the pre-flight checks for the big first ride of the trailer...screwed the name plate on and it looks amazing...filming the big ride tomorrow, will take a day or two to edit..but i cant wait..good to hear from you my friend, take care, and happy new year.. Del.
I have found that the cheap SDS chisels sold for breaking up concrete are good for this. Some are square section and taper to a fine point, so can be ground to give an ideal shape to really get a grip into a rusty nut. I've done a few on old tractors, where the nuts have rusted round. If you make sure you don't overheat them whilst grinding ( keep dipping them in water whilst grinding ) you'll find them really tough. Don't forget the safety glasses, my barn has a tin roof and I've heard tiny bits of nut pinging off it.
In my experience this does work - sometimes! Depends a lot on access & how tight the nut/bolthead is. Problem is commonly seen on vehicle sump drain plugs where people tend to over-tighten. I also note that ring/open end spanners frequently don't fit perfectly even when new. Note also on vehicles the fasteners are often Hi tensile grade which generally reduces the incidence of burring.
Just for info have a look at the "IRWIN Vise-Grip Locking Wrench" (the wrench, no the standard pliers) they were the only thing that allowed me to unscrew old rounded brass fittings from fuel lines. They lock from three sides without squishing nuts and are really worth having in your toolkit!
Well done, mate, that is exactly what good workshop practice is about ... taking care & paying attention whilst using good common sense can get you out of pretty much anything, just imagine what your H-D dealer would have charged you to sort that out... then take that money and treat Mrs Gunboy to a nice meal out on Saturday night LOL! Take care, Del
Bloody brilliant presentation by a man who knows what he's taking about. Bravo.
This guy is the real deal! I'm not a mechanic by any means but this guy really explains not just how, but why this technique works as well as what not to do so things don't get much worse. Very well spoken, detailed, and most importantly after watching this video I finally was able to remove a perfectly rounded, stripped worse than any bolt I've ever seen from my my rear brake caliper. Thank you sir!
Watched 6-7 other videos on how to loosen nuts, then I watched yours. Yours was the only one that was thought out and made sense based on physics. Thank you
Thanks buddy, just sayin' it like it is!
I'm a diy guy - "the" single most frustrating thing i find for auto repair is stubborn bolts. There are so many "how to" videos that don't talk on the correct method to remove a bolt and refer to the repair process as "easy". I tried to do a rear brake job and I have done a couple in the past but this time I rounded the head of the caliper bracket bolt. Pretty sure i did all the things you said to make sure not to do - lesson learned. Brilliant video. Thanks for sharing.
+Mike Barnes Hi Mike, I know exactly what you mean, it's always easy if you know how aye??! And people who assume that others know as much as they do imo, can often sound insulting! People are not stupid, they just need things explained thoroughly so the information makes sense... am glad the video could help you, and no matter how long you've been doing this kind of work, no job is ever plain sailing! The mark of a good mechanic, as I've always said, is not how many certificates he has on the wall, it's his ability to adapt, improvise and overcome problems.... ! Thanks for your kind comments my friend, take care and ride safe, Del
Your videos have saved me so much time and money. I really appreciate you taking the time out to show us how its done. You sir, are a national treasure. Rs.
Why thank you most kindly Sir, that is very generous, we just load up the things we have cause to do in the garage, and share it with our fellow bikers... thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.. Del.
Hi Delboy
My question is about rusty stock (oem) nuts and bolts .Is it better to remove them clean them up with vinegar etc and then coat the heads in ACF-50 and stick em back on or simply just replace with stainless or titanium kits to which I have reservations about using stainless kits ?
@@nsmith1661 Hi may I ask what would problems be with stainless kits? Seems they would resist rust better. Thanks
@@achriscity
yes you are right, its just when i spoke to other people about it they seemed to be purists and preffered oem. i was just asking delboy about keeping the old fasteners .
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to make this. another solution I use if you can get to the nut is a 'nut splitter'. The nut splitter sits on top of the nut and you tighten it with a ratchet. As it tightens, a blade goes though the nut and sheers it. It usually damages the thread of the bolt too, but if its a last resort thing, and you're going to replace the bolt anyway, it works well.
I'm new to your channel but I have 1 thing for advice. Please never and I repeat never get rid of the camera lady. Keep up the good work. I'm off to watch more of your clips.
Thanks Trevor...Penny says thanks too...she is my greatest asset and best friend...couldn't do it without her... take care and thanks for watching.. Del.
Used this ‘hole punch’ technique today on a badly rounded nut in a very awkward position. Lifesaver.. ! Worked a treat.
Thank you so much....
Excellent! Glad it worked for you mate.
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise! i tried swapping out a pump on a pressure washer, and one bolt rounded out, and had no room to get a socket on it. Your method worked flawlessly, and i got it out. Thanks again for taking the time to educate the world! I'm jealous of your mechanical skills and know-how! Job well done, mate!
Thank you my friend, much appreciated, am glad it could help!
Great information and I believe I've used the vice-grips approach in the past... never again.
wish I watched this about an hour ago, hence how I found the video lmao
What a fantastic video and tip. I was working on changing the sump on my Chrysler voyager and 11 bolts were fine and one was so rounded that no socket, spanner, special nut removing socket or Spanner managed to even grip it. There was little room and on a car jack so it was not easy job. I also tried all the usual lubricants and heat but it just made it worst.
Eventually I was thinking this video and then welding a nut on top. I gave this a go with my lovely neighbours hole punch and very small hammer and after 2-3 minutes it worked a charm. The small tapping also helped to loosen all the rust inside the hole
Thanks you very much mate. As a woodworking man, it made perfect sense as soon as I saw it. I got such an easy result after two days of trying everything else. Thanks mate
Most welcome buddy, so glad that it helped you, it's such a simple little trick and goes against everything that we naturally reach for when anything is stubborn and resistant, we always seek for bigger and heavier tools in order to dominate the situation, but some things respond better to the gentle touch! Thanks for watching and taking the time to send some feedback...
It's the difference between independent and main dealer mechanics. The independent usually finds a way to fix some thing, the main dealer just replaces the entire unit, passing the cost to the customer.
+Choppington Otter Correct ! Easier for them and more profit... sad ain't it??!
I have never seen such an informative and useful set of videos as Delboys...well done mate !
Now that's a brilliant method, Ben, never thought of that... it's not a strict discipline, you just do what works for you, it;s amazing how easily we reach for the grips and sometimes, less is more, thanks buddy, ride safe, Cheers, Del
I bought myself a set of twist sockets a few years ago, for removing rounded nuts. Only had to use them a couple of times, but great bit of kit to have when the time comes
ONCE AGAIN, you have saved me time, money and frustration. I rounded off my front caliper bolts and didn't even think to file the edges flat again.
Glad it worked for you buddy.... its a common sense thing you dont think of aye.!
Thanks so much for this excellent tip! I had a master cylinder bleed screw in a really tight spot that was seized, I rounded the bolt trying to move it. Using this method exactly, I got it off in 30 seconds! You just saved me a ton of work, thank you.
Excellent mate, always good to hear the videos have helped someone out... leaves you more time to do other stuff eh?!... Ride safe, mate, Del
these videos are great, I'm a panal beater by trade so havnt done a great deal of spanner work, only just got round to buying my first bike at the age of 39 ( late starter ) have no experience on working with bikes but your vids have given me the confidence to give it a go, thanks
Hi Del,hope ur well,just want to say a big thanks,was changing brake hoses,had 3 nuts wouldn't shift,drilled in side of nut to get a better purchace, tippy tappy and off,each time in my head,thank you, thank you,thank you...project Kawasaki gpx 750 is one step closer thanks to you, done more then i'd expected but with your helpful vids you gave me the confidence to give it a go. once again, big thanks
Metal Micky
Thanks Micky, thats really kind of you to say, i load thr videos to help others learn a bit and save a few bob, so its good to hear its working....good luck with the GPX, they are a rare old bike these days, take care, Del.
Hi mate, I also have those self same blobs of rust & inherited them with the bike! Every time I've considered to take the pipes off,I've worked round it & actually not needed to,but if you truly have no choice but to remove the headers, then the best I can suggest is clear everything perifieral out of the way, rads, fairings, etc., get the best fitting alan key you can & soak in WD for a couple of days just give 'em a go,if they snap off then just drill them out & helicoil them - good luck, Del
I dont know why people dislike you vids, i find them all very helpfull and you give up your time to help us out. Cheers Del
Just a message to say that i think your vids are very good and you describe things very well. There must be many people on UA-cam, who have learnt so much watching your videos. Keep up the good work you do Del.
Brilliant! AND...love all the explanations as to WHY you do what you do and the right tools to do with. I'm gonna try on my truck's wheel.
I like you enthusiasm. I just used an imperial spanner, which was slightly smaller than the designated metric size and it gripped. Snapped the bolt but it abolished the incredibly hard task I had.
Drill it out buddy..?
Thank you Delboy! Just removed four seized nuts from the exhaust manifold of my Bonneville T100 using your punch / chisel method as nothing else worked. Took my time applying a little heat (just a heat gun) and plenty of penetrating oil too and lots and lots of little taps. Took nearly an hour for each one but it worked and I had four undamaged studs that I could then use to fit my new Tec 2-1 exhaust. Scoured the whole of UA-cam but yours was by far the the most practical / useful advice. Many many thanks. Have joined your Idiot's Collective too.
Nice one buddy, thanks for your feedback... this is a very old video now, and I probably did waffle on too much at the beginning, as I've been told, but it gets the point across and it worked for you, and that makes me happy ! Little tip for you buddy, going forward, if it helps... once every 3-6 months , depending on how much you use your bike, just squirt the stud nuts with some penetrating oil, back them out a couple of turns, and then wind them back in, do one at a time, and it won't unsettle the gasket, that why they stay mobile and won't seize up again... all the best, Del
GREAT tip! I'd never even thought about the fact that grips would crush the nut, so that's one tool I'll be using a bit less from now on ;)
In terms of drilling, I've also had a couple seize on me, were rather than drilling the bolt down the centre, I've actually drilled the edge of the nut down to the thread and then used a similar approach to your punch method. It removes the pressure and gives you an awesome purchase for knocking it loose.
This was really really helpful thank you, 3 mins with a sharp chisel and off came the rounded water coolant plug. You are a lifesaver thanks again
Richard Foulkes Hi Richard, old school stuff, but usually works.. glad it helped you out, and thanks for watching.... take care.. Del.
Good vid - perhaps the only thing I would add is before you get to the point of hitting it off is to try a decent quality 6 point/sided socket. I've not use one, but a "nut splitter" (ouch) may also be handy to keep in your toolbox.
And if you have a welder, you can weld on a good nut.
Good route...as long as the heat from the weld is ok with the surroundings (powder coated casing or plastic parts etc,) that a good way... more then anything its just using yer noddle and thinking it through...most of the time there isnt an error code for the things that blight yer bike...cheers mate take care, Del.
The trick lies in detail and you've done excellent. Thank you for sharing. I am in stage two where i've done some damage to a 17nut that is a part of a quarter turn kitchen sink tap. Time to shop for file and the center hole punch. I would be opting for the file method to restore the sides of the bolt and then try the ring/box spanner. Thanks again. :)
ah dammit, thought you would say that lol! yeah there is no substitute for DIY! its all about going for it and learning how to do it myself! last year there was no way id be doing half of the things i do to my bike now without your channel! i was very wary about working on a big bike, but after seeing you do it so many times it feels like iv already done half of it before!! thank you so much del and keep up the good work!
The impatient can jump to 8:20 for the meat of it.
Nice explanation and examples. Thanks for adding the bit about different size hammers.
Exactly mate. that's what fast forward is for.... thanks for watching... Del
I bought a damaged bike that had no key and had to do the same thing to remove the two security screws from the under side of the ignition mount, took me a little while but it was the only sound way to remove those two screws to take the ignition out to take to a lock smith.. cost me $35 instead of over $400 which was the rough quote the lock smith gave me to take it out themselves. It did take me a few hours to get everything off and back on but well worth the experience :)
There's always a way round the big daft bills aye.. .Nice one buddy.. thanks for your comment.. Del.
Yeah it seemed like a lot of money but there was a lot of plastic and the headlight etc.. to remove.. Then when all undone there was nothing on the head of the screws so the punch was the only way I could think of.. It's cool we are on almost completely opposite sides of the world and came up with the same idea.. I did get really sick of doin it upside down in the tiniest space!! Job totally sucked but I got a beautiful low k's V twin 1000 that I still have that came tuned with Remus pipes.. A bit thursty on fuel but so much fun to ride :)
Good vid. I've done this as well with success. Some other tricks I've done depending on how much space I have - I've taken my 'junk' set of wrenches and sockets and figured out the next smaller size, whether metric or imperial...hammed that on to the nut and removed the nut that way. I've also ground down new flats to the point where the tool the next size down would fit. I've had some success using a *small* pipe wrench which bit the nut in such a way that it encouraged it to spin off.
Buy a Metwrench set. Grabs the middle of the nut instead of the corners. Was advertised on tv years ago, and they do work and only cost around 70 bucks for basic set, Works on badly rusted stuck ones as well, Sometimes a bit of heat needed, or penetrating oil on badly rusted ones. Adding a rattle to rusted nuts and bolts with those small air jackhammers will allow you to crack nearly any nut off in any situation. That's easier than any of this you're looking at here, but best way if nuts are rounded and you don't have the proper tools to remove nuts that have been rounded off. Thanks Moonfleet for your videos.
Excellent. I’ve got a stripped bolt on my chain inspection cover and I’ve been sweating on how to remove it without destroying my entire primary case, haha. Great help
Good luck with it buddy, hope it comes out ok.!
nice one Del, yes done this with countersunk Phillips type screws and it works, a little heat with a mini blow lamp helps in bad cases!
Most of the buggered nuts and bolts I've dealt with have been rusted ones, mostly on boats. I've had some luck with filing or Dremeling two flats onto the fastener and using an adjustable. I have cut very rusted fasteners off with a cold chisel, too. Thanks for posting.
Glad i could help! Big fan of your videos, spending far to many hours looking at them!
PS: the 7L size is in my opinion the most useful, it covers from 11mm to 19mm which is the range were you found most rounded nuts on cars and bikes...
Keep up the good work!
Your practical approach to a problem is really good...cheers!
You're the first Brit I've ever heard use the word wrench.
No you're right Byron, tjats the best thong to do, if its stuck by corrosion or locktitght in the thread then some easing oil will really help...the nut may just be badly damaged and the video was to showcase the centre punch method... thanks again my friend, have a great new year, all the best from us here in Blighty... Del,& Penny.
If everyone in the world was as clever and smart as you, there would never be any problem on earth ever. So many people are doing things the wrong way, and it's so easy to do things right ...
Well thank you most kindly Benoit-Pierre ... you are too kind... but I'm sure if we were all the same, it would be a very boring world eh?! Ride safe my friend and thanks for watching, Del
Thanks, I learned a couple things. I never liked vice grips but now I really know why they never seem to work. And the center punch trick, I don't recall having tried that yet. Good info!
Nathan Herron Thanks Nathan, give it a try mate, it usually gets you out of trouble..
also take a look at ur socket or wrench, see if its a twelve point or six point. if its twelve stop and find a six. im trying to remove a security nut off the rim of my car but this was entertaining enough to watch all the way through. thank you for sharing. : )
Thanks mate...good luck with the lock nut..
Again you've saved the day. Much thanks. My valve cover bolts were rounded off on the 400 4, your technique got the naughty ones off. Again your vids are great, you empower use newbies to tackle stuff and save us x amount of pound / dollar. By the way loving your FOR's.
Cracking video and so right I've always attempted things and I get along well in most cases until the dreaded rounded or rusted bolt usually the last one in a sequence. Also right that the tool of choice in such a situation for me is mole grips and thinking to myself that the most satisfying noise is that clank of griping the bolt nut or whatever as tight as possible. Can't believe it never really dawned on me before that it just exasperated the situation. Mind you I also joking tell people I can do half of any job brilliantly (the taking apart) just don't expect in to go back together again. :-)
There are indeed mate... there are many specialist tools for specific jobs, but many beginner riders only have very basic hand tools, so this is a way to deal with it without a trip to the tool store!
He's got a brilliant way of explaining things.
Thank you sir. You have solved a huge problem for me. 5 stars for you and a big thumbs up.
+laserbeam 002 Awesome! Glad we could help buddy.... and that it worked for ya!
Hi Simon, now that's a tricky one mate....its a case if trial and error, try a flat bladed screw driver that almost fits in the hole but is just a tiny bit too big.. then tap it in with a toffee hammer, that's should get a grip on it....of not, then you may have to get an 'easyout' which is a left handed shallow screw for extracting stripped and snapped off bolts that you've drilled down... if all else fails mate, just drill the head off it but be careful not to damage the bodywork obviously...
Brilliant videos as usual .. after watching your vid I came across a tool made in the US called (go2 socket) a must tool for every tool box! takes off rounded bolts with no hassle
Just did the file trick on brake hardline nut that got rounded. Life saver. Worked like a charm
Thanks Darrin, good to hear form you again buddy, hope life is good, happy new year to you both, take care, Del.
You saved me from making a big mistake! I followed your advice to remove some exhaust nuts from my Super Beetle. Thanks!
I'll try this out! My rear cliper mounting bolt has been rounded off, but not by having the wrong tools. The wrench was a 14mm but it still managed to round of the head. Norway and rust you know... Getting a braker bar in that space is also quite impossible
good video..I have often said that they should not sell tools to some people.I was a carpenter and the decks some people built were just scary.. .best of luck..Bill
I'll second the "brilliant" comment.
The best shop classes I've ever had!
I'd say this video saved me about £200. Completely seized brake calliper bolt couldn't be shifted even by over-the-counter 'bolt extractor' nonsense, but gave way after a couple of hours persevering with this method. Continuous sharpening of the centre-punch is key… I should've just done this from the word go. Good work.
OneUnited1999 Thanks mate...glad it worked for you.. Del.
You are a star using a chisel and a toffee hammer worked perfect. Thanks a lot mate.
+joebcfcable Nice one Joe, glad it helped you out mate.!
You're right, if a bolt is siezed in its thread, you would have to dril it right out a size larger to clean smooth metal again, then use a "Helicoil kit" to replace the thread...they are used in spark plug holes and other large threads that get regularly damaged... the suit is a hybrid, i began with the "SRO" suit which was their top line kit, had both jacket and trousers replaced so now have the "XCR jacket" and the trousers are from their 'waterproof leather' range...thanks for watching, Del.
I do! But I won't bore you with the details cos it'll make me look like a nerdy swot, I tend to be more slap dash as years go by and most of the time it works, great to chat with you buddy, Happy New Year to you, take care Del
thanks for the vid. this happened to a 15mm (flats) caliper bolt (on a car). I made it worse than it already was. Was using the wishbone to pivot against and as I was lifting the spanner and or wrench up, it would twist outwards, rendering the head of the bolt to partially skew. My first intuition was to get a file like you said - i might attempt this next weekend.
I have undone caliper bolts for a long time now, pivoting against the ground or a wishbone have always worked except this time!
The biggest problem with Derby torx bolts is people use the wrong size, Derby bolts are a T27 but when you buy a basic Torx kit they skip 25 straight to 30 missing out 27, guys don't realise this so the only one that fits in the kit is the 25 (even though it's a bit wobbly), so off they go and hang on it and it minces straight away. Invest in a decent set of bits that include the rare 'T27' and give it afew taps with a toffee hammer as you twist and they usually come off every time. Cheers Del
Thanks. The center punch technique is an excellent tip, as long as you can get good purchase on the fastener. That's the same problem with nut splitters.
Does it work on bolt heads? I'm guessing not very well because the length of the threads adds friction.
Another tip I found usefull is if you can get at the nut you can cut a groove into it usng a dremel and a cutting disk then the nut just breaks and you can save the bolt usually ...but the centre punch trick is a great one, never would have thought of that one :D
Hi Del and Penny, Great vid! The Rukka gear is amazing... really cool overview and details, and "Workshop Practices" segments are always greatly appreciated. Happy New Year!
Hi mate, if your bike was running fine on the stubbied can stil recently then logically it can't be that - bogging on pull away is often attributed to a split diaphragm in the carb or a stuck choke, so starting the easiest first, make sure your choke is turning off completely & the cable isn't jamming, check your air filter is clean & not full of moisture & if all well, take the carb top caps off & inspect the rubber diaphragms for splits, let me know how you get on, Cheers Del
No matter how chewed it gets, you can always drill it out...nothing resists the drill..lol.. cheers mate.. Dek.
Sound thinking and a great presentation. Being from the US myself, I get a kick out of UK phrases all by themselves. "Clamp it on for England!" 6:38
Thanks Ken, glad you enjoy the videos, just a bit of fun, and seems the simplest way to put it! I love American phrases too, my very favourite of all was Darnell from the movie Christine, 'ya can't polish a turd' ... and it has to be said in his glorious Southern accent!
Thanks Andy, glad to hear you get stuck in to your own stuff.. .well done mate... ride safe buddy.. Del.
Thanks mate, there are a million tools out there and you cant spot them all, ill have a look out for these as they will come in handy... cheers Del.
I'm sorry to say this...but this is the Delboy Garage I miss..."how to" the common sense way...as the years went on you stopped thinking of the man with no mechanical knowledge or the guy that only have basic tools available to him....but with that being said, thank you for all the help and shortcuts I learned on your videos to build my custom bike...another thing I would have liked to see more on your video's is the holy grail..."Honda Blackbird CBR1100xx". No after market parts available so I have to build my own and lotta help from your videos (specially the Fighter build)...anyway, thank you once again.
Thanks Neil, it's important to improve ourselves, don't you agree, tools and equipment are affordable now and the benefits can transform your skills and abilities, moving forward and exploring the things you didn't know you could do is the only way i learned mate.. so the how-to common sense way still applies, and it backs up everything we do. and interesting point about the Blackbirds... on the day i went out shopping to get that Kawasaki for the street fighter project, i actually went to look at a Blackbird the dealer had on their website.. but by thew time o got there is had sold... so it's still an unexplored avenue and ill be shopping for the next donor bike once the Legend is finished soon... so never say never..!
as a painter and decorator with over 30 years experience I know for a 101% fact that
experience = everything
and
college = nothing
maybe this is different in other industry's but from what I've seen in the building trade it holds true
Id agree with that for the most part buddy.. practice makes perfect and all that..
Evening Del, great vid, will definately try this!
Have you ever had to get rounded Cap-Heads out? I was shown an awesome trick a while back that works basically every time...
If you hammer an oversized Torx bit into the rounded cap head and get a ratchet on it they come out no problem. Had to do it on a friends fairing bolts recently - about 5 bolts and it worked every time.
Same cause as this - people using the wrong size tools!
You're right mate, practical skills are just as important as technical ones...
Thanks Rich, you are very kind.. we're just happy to be able to spread a little common sense and save people some pennies in the bargain... take care and thanks for watching.. Del.
Hi Dan....that's a bit trickier aye...ok, if you cannot get the centre punch to grip by taping it onto the lip top edge of the bolt head, then you'll have to drill it off...protect the tank with about ten layers of masking tape. then push the drill bit gently down into the head till the head drops off...then wind the stump out with some grips.....use a drill that's 1mm bigger then the shaft of the bolt..!
thinking LATERALLY!!!! finding a way ROUND a problem... very very few people think that way now.. Glad to see someone else whose in the same mind set as me.
Owe you a beer and a chocky cake for the fork seal vid! ride safe.
As a new mechanic this is what I struggle with the most is this type of ""common sense"" work around for problems. thanks for the video.
Thanks buddy, glad the video can help you out... we have plenty more in the back cataologue, in playlists, so you should find plenty to help you there, all the best, D&P!
another top episode of delboys garage, love it
That's a new one. I've already ordered the Grip-Tite set, but I'll try this if those fail. Thanks... good vids
Good plans all mate, but hammering a smaller tool on is no different than squeezing it with grips...it still squeezes it tighter... but your method of filing down to the next size is perfect practice...nice tip mate... thanks for your comment..take care and happy new year..Del.
I've heard of those and the reputation goes before them, it's the sort of thing you could wear if, for looks and image you wanted to wear regular work boots or trainers all year round.
Penny Pitstop wears TCX boots every day they are amazing and I love the ones they make that look like basketball boots with armour, I guess as the years go by I've just become the Imelda Marcos of bike gear!
Worked a treat - Oil filter nut on a Honda Activa Scooter ( I am from India) - Thank you sir
You are most welcome, glad the video could help you !
A friend once showed me how to loosen a completely rounded bolt head on the side of my car engine. He brought out a pipe wrench and a 4' pipe, which he used as a long lever. I know you can't always get a pipe wrench to the damaged bolt head or nut, but if you can, it's a pretty simple thing to loosen it.
Pipe wrenched tighten as you pull on them... and yes, they always work if you can get a clear purchace on them and space to move the wrench... most of the time you cant get them in on the job..!
There is only one way if they are that bad...and thats to drill the heads off...use a bit the same size as the shank of the bolt, and be careful not to cut into the caliper casting... best results will be taking the caliper off and m,ounting it in secure vice....there is a little chance you may be able to get a really sharp centre punch to bite into the edge of the bolt..but it rarely works.. i just drill them off then remove the bolts stumps once its apart.. good luck with it mate, cheers, Del.
Great tip, I've often used an old tool kit screwdriver, slot/flat head of course, which works about the same as your chisel I guess. I've never thought about a centre punch though because it can be hard to get that to bite on a small nut without hitting something else. Mostly I have problems with heavily corroded nuts and find a decent small file handy, filing down either side to good metal until I can fit a smaller open ended spanner on then turning the remains of the nut off. It's a long process though, keeps you busy on a rainy afternoon. Now I have to do all my fixes outside at our new place though so I have to choose a good day, that's why I have all the bikes i do, then I always have something to ride while I'm fixing something else. I've been off the road since July though, cancer, recovering now though although it took my bladder, hoping to be back on the road proper in a few more weeks. Enjoying all your videos.
Blimey mate, you dont do things by halves aye....i hope you are feeling better after your illness, i cant imagine how it must feel having to cope with that. Love your mentality buddy, keep 'em running and get on with life... i think we would get on very well on a long lazy summers afternoon at a rally with a few beers no?.....doing the Bulldog bash this year by any chance..?...
Moonfleet41
Thank you for another reply. My wife tells me I often do things the hard way, I'm not sure I do but I do get satisfaction from making things work for as little money as possible, although I seldom get a choice to do otherwise. Even when I'm at my best I don't travel far, CFS/ME means that I have to pace myself and so I don't really go more than 30 miles or so from home, I can't take to many risks as I ride on the sufferance of the DVLA and if anything happens then my licence would be gone probably never to return. No beer either, being coeliac ( gluten intolerant) as well, the odd pear cider maybe but not to often as it messes with the meds to much. It's best, I find, to just make the most of what you can do. There's always someone else worse off.
Thanks Mick.. people are always surprised how little tapping action they need to get the free, its a shame the factory still fit the bike with fasteners made from stale bread.. glad to hera you have a Dyna... my favorite Harley.. thanks for watching mate... take care. Del.
That's very typical Jay, the same happens with Derby cover bolts too, they seem to be made from stale cheese they are so damn soft.... i tend to fit them in with some anti-sieze and don't over-tighten them, often its helpful to invest a bit in some stainless bolts to replace the factory ones with...then you have made a handy upgrade that will save you further grief.. hope that helps... take care..Del.
Yeah, i can see that would work real well, i would say though that in many cases with a bike there is parts close to the bolt that you wont want to damage, so the dremal would be a risky choice in some cases... thanks for your input buddy, take care.. del.
Ha ha..Pipe Wrenches, i forgot about those...nothing can fuckup a nut better than a pair of plumbers 'Stilsons'... uploading a pre-lim video right now, done the pre-flight checks for the big first ride of the trailer...screwed the name plate on and it looks amazing...filming the big ride tomorrow, will take a day or two to edit..but i cant wait..good to hear from you my friend, take care, and happy new year.. Del.
Hi mate thanks for all the tips helping keepin the winter bandit on the road till summer!
I have found that the cheap SDS chisels sold for breaking up concrete are good for this. Some are square section and taper to a fine point, so can be ground to give an ideal shape to really get a grip into a rusty nut. I've done a few on old tractors, where the nuts have rusted round. If you make sure you don't overheat them whilst grinding ( keep dipping them in water whilst grinding ) you'll find them really tough. Don't forget the safety glasses, my barn has a tin roof and I've heard tiny bits of nut pinging off it.
You are a great teacher. Thanks for your video from Belgium.
Thanks mate, appreciate your kind comments, glad it helped you. Del.
In my experience this does work - sometimes! Depends a lot on access & how tight the nut/bolthead is. Problem is commonly seen on vehicle sump drain plugs where people tend to over-tighten. I also note that ring/open end spanners frequently don't fit perfectly even when new. Note also on vehicles the fasteners are often Hi tensile grade which generally reduces the incidence of burring.
Just for info have a look at the "IRWIN Vise-Grip Locking Wrench" (the wrench, no the standard pliers) they were the only thing that allowed me to unscrew old rounded brass fittings from fuel lines. They lock from three sides without squishing nuts and are really worth having in your toolkit!
Well done, mate, that is exactly what good workshop practice is about ... taking care & paying attention whilst using good common sense can get you out of pretty much anything, just imagine what your H-D dealer would have charged you to sort that out... then take that money and treat Mrs Gunboy to a nice meal out on Saturday night LOL! Take care, Del