Audi A3 BKD Turbo Replacement Notes
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Please note, this video was made in addition to a longer more detailed article that I wrote on my Blog to support this work
This can be accessed via the following link.
www.andrewhope...
For info the driveshaft bolt I'm referring to it's proper name is Dodecagonal Head Bolt. Part number
WHT002795. I used this product from Machine Mart to remove it Clarke PRO387
This isn't a "how to" guide as such, it's just a quick video I made to try and help others doing the Turbo replacement on their Audi A3 or BKD Engine which may help them when they're stuck if they aren't sure what to do.
Please note, this video was more of an afterthought, as I replaced the Turbo around 2 months ago, so trying to remember everything that needed doing and there's a few things I forgot to mention. I'd recommended replacing the Oil return pipe using a genuine one rather than aftermarket.
There's a couple of quick notes I've made when removing the Turbo, although I recommend reading my website article whilst watching this video to understand more. If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I'll assist where possible.
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Block your car up DO NOT GO UNDERNEATH WITH THE CAR HELD UP WITH JUST A TROLLY JACK. CAR CAN SLIP OF AND CRUSH YOU. Friend's head squashed flat because he did this.
I know. When I replaced the turbocharger I used axle stands .
Great video, Andrew. Any recommendations where to get a replacement turbo, my one is whistling like a cop car under load and at high revs at idle.
It's down to preference I bought mine from darkside development's in the UK its a genuine Garett one. Cost me about £700 for the turbo
I figure if rhe OEM turbo lasts about 130k then it's another 10 years of more driving where I don't have to think about it
Depending on budgets ofc the other approach is buying a CHRA cartridge dismantling the old turbo and swapping out the internals. The CHRA is about £200 but you'd need to make sure it's not a modified as unless your car is tuned it messes on with maps and stuff
You can buy CHRA cartridges from a lot of places. So it's genuinely better to look on Google for that and price matching
The only thing with chra is you have to remove the turbo first. Then dismantle it snd refit it. Depending on how much time you have it could be a pain to do. It's the cheaper approach. If you need to save some money.
It took me a while as I got photos for my blog. I could probably take off my turbo on a weekend now if needed as I know which parts need removing
@@RoadRunnerMeep Yes, cheers for the advice. I’ll have a look at prices and have it.
How much does replacemt cost?
I wrote about it in more detail on my blog but for an OEM turbo and the turbo oil fitting pipe as a minimum retaining everything else it's ~£750
@@RoadRunnerMeep cheers for the reply. My 2.0 tdi needs new turbo. Was looking about fir a price. Great blog, thanks for your content
Np hope it helps you. I tried to document the main procedures
I had issues with my turbo I decided to remove and repair and reassemble I saved about £1000 in parts and labour it’s dooablal on your driveway over a weekend on your own the hardest part is access to the turbo manifold bolts it’s just easier to remove the cooler completely once turbo is out open it up and clean the VNT of all the carbon and then delete your egr completely
If you where local I’d repair your turbo for you on your driveway don’t go buying a new turbo the one you got just needs a clean
Do you have link to the Darkside oil return pipe mate
I thought I linked in my blog post. The code should be DSD1055 at Darkside.
This is the one I used
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/oil-Return-line-for-1-9-and-2-0-tdi.html
No EGR cooler to get in the way ?
It's awkward to get to but managed to remove the EGR cooler pipe from the turbo manifold when I was doing it. I didn't have to remove the EGR cooler itself. I got access from above and below the car. You can probably get away with removing the nuts on the turbo rather than the cooler. It's easier to reattach removing both just a bit fiddly.
@@RoadRunnerMeep Thanks very much mate .
Np. The pipe that attaches to the turbo you can remove by reaching behind the turbo from underneath. The nuts that attach to the EGR cooler at the top remove via engine bay. It's a bit hard to describe over this. But if you follow the EGR pipe to the cooler the two bolts are there you can see where it joins. Deffo recommend removing the driveshaft though it's very easy once removed if your engine is the same layout as mine
Yes I’ve removed my EGR and cooler completely diverted the coolant flow and blanked both ends of EGR now have more access to the turbo manifold bolts if need be in the future but my main issue was the VNT ring inside the turbo was clogged with carbon once I cleaned it all out and re installed I had no limp mode at all
You got lucky then. I dismantled my turbo it was fubar inside. Even the VNT locator pins snapped . Still I'm going to buy some parts and rebuild as a spare . Some people remove the EGR some don't it can be done either way.