THANK YOU! I replaced my points and all the other bs under the cap and I couldn’t get it in time but showing me how you aligned everything in the beginning, finding Tdc of cylinder one made all the difference. All I had to do was then plug each wire in after I found plug one on the distributor cover and I’m in business!
Good one Dave.. There was a guy in my neighborhood who pulled his distributor out of his Chevy truck and couldn't get it back in.. to make a long story short, the slot in the oil pump had moved and the distributor wouldn't go all the way down.. when they turned it so it would seat, it wasn't pointing to #1.. So I finally figured out that the slot had moved, so I got a long screwdriver 🪛 and turned the slot until it lined up.. it took me several tries to get it... Sometimes those distributors can be a real pain.. Take that 216, clean it up good, paint it and make a piece of garage art out of it.. I'd shoot a squirt of atf in each cyl to keep it lubricated... Dave I thoroughly enjoyed the video and thx for taking us along for the ride.. Dave God Bless and take care my friend..
Thanks Gary. Glad you figured out to turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver. The SBC's oil pump is driven the same way. You might run into it again. Have a good 'un my friend.
You should do a video on how to decode the serial # to find out what year and size these motors are. And how the find out what one of these motors came out of. For example. I have a 1951 chevy styleline deluxe with 216 inline six and 3 in the tree but I searched my engine serial # and it says it's a 1948 216 passenger vehicle but it does say what kind of passanger vehicle. This may be helpful for other and myself for purchasing the correct engine parts. Thank and you videos are very helpful. Keep up good work ps. And do a. Video on installing rear main. Rope seal also.
I measured the length from the bottom of distributor to the Vacuum advance plate that sits on the block. This ensures oil pump engagement when the plate seats properly. I also have a complete rebuilt pertronix updated original 216/235 distributor for sale on stovebolt. ps dave, my 1941 customer is reporting great summer drives in that red/black truck.. Very happy. Thanks for the help.
One thing to keep in mind is Chevrolet used 10 MM Spark Plugs until 19 47 then increased the Plug thread to 14 MM which greatly improve engine performance.
This video will be very helpful to me when I reinstall my 216 back into my 49 that was rebuilt 20 yrs ago then pulled out to begin restoration. It will be going back in soon but I misplaced the rear mount bolts. Can you tell me what size and length the original bolts should be?
Hey Alan. If you're asking about the bellhousing mount-to-frame bolts it's been too many moons since I did the swap, but with that said, they're either 5/16 or 3/8 and maybe 2 - 2.5" long. Good news is the engine and tranny will sit on the frame without being bolted up until you get some bolts installed. Good luck with your install.
The vacuum advance collar screw got loose, so now the vacuum advance isn’t moving the distributor on my 235. Does it have to be clocked or lined up before I tighten it? Thanks
Kinda sorta. This is what I'd do. 1) Take the cap off to the side & set the Octane selector to "0". 2) set the engine to #1 cyl TDC on it's compression stroke. (the timing BB on the flywheel should line up with the pointer) 3) static time the engine by slowly rotating the distributor to the point where the points "just" open. (either use an ohm meter or a continuity light). (With an ohm meter, set it to read ohms, disconnect the coil wire at the distributor., put the black meter lead to ground on the distributor body and the red to the connector on the distributor where the coil wire connected. With the points closed you should read a short or "0" ohms, if not slowly rotate the distributor back & forth until you do. Now rotate it CCW to the point where the points just open - the meter will read "open" or infinity or whatever your meter displays when the leads aren't touching each other in the ohms setting). 4) Lock the vacuum advance collar to the distributor & put the cap back on. 5) the engine should start & run at this setting. 6) time the engine with a timing light and you should be GTG Good luck
Thanks for another great instructional video Dave. Hand turned the flywheel to TDC on the BB, got the rotor pointing to #1, plugs are (now) in correct order (153624) and even gapped the points. However the starter doesn't have enough "zing" to make everything sing! Should I pull the starter and bench test it? Regards, Rob
Hey Rob. 6V or 12V? I'd suspect the battery being alittle low. Bench test the starter but even a weak starter will spin. Check the brushes and make sure there's enough to contact the commutator. Good luck
I have a 51 skyline with a 235. I’m having issues getting the octane adjuster to move to 0. I loosened the bolt holding it down by the degree hash marks, but can’t seem to get it to budge and it’s hard to see what it’s exactly attached to, to get a grip and shift it. I had the distributor itself loose and was able to rotate that around, but not the octane adjuster. Is it all connected to the vacuum advance? Thank you.
Yes, the octance adjuster is connected to the vacuum adjustment assembly. Sounds like the distributor adjustment is such that it's maxing out the octane adjustment. On the backside of the distributor between it and the engine side cover you should see an adjustment screw. If you loosen it you should be able to spin the distributor freely inside the vacuum adustment assembly without loosening the octane adjustment bolt. Now you should be able to loosen the octane adjustment bolt and set it to "0". You'll then need to readjust your timing. I would leave the octane adjustment on "0" and adjust the timing via the adjustment screw on the back side of the distributor. That way you can easily readjust your timing if necessary via the octane adjustment. Good luck.
The best way to set timing on these old 6 bangers is to set the maximum mechanical advance to between 28 degrees BTDC to 30 degrees BTDV at around 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. After setting ths reconnect the vacuum advance and road test. If it pings under acceleration retard the timing a degree or 2 at a time until it stops pinging. If it doesn't ping but has a hessitation when accelerating advance the timing a degree or 2. You want to find the happy medium where it doesn't hessitate and doesn't ping. My engine isn't stock but you can watch the follwing linked video to see if it helps. Thanks for warching. ua-cam.com/video/FHWRSV-Qbic/v-deo.html
Hey Manuel, I'm glad you found something useful. These old Stovebolt engines are very stout. JUst keep them properly serviced and they're dependable too. Thanks for watching.
If I put a 216 flywheel and bell housing on a 235, is the BB still TDC, or should I adjust away (one way or another) since it’s a 235? Asking because I think I’m having timing problems and this video is the first time I had seen any notes on a difference between 235 and 216 flywheel timing marks.
Hey Ben. The BB on the 216's flywheel is 5 degrees BTDC and on most 235 flywheels the BB is 2 degrees ATDC. So you can see theres a big difference. My 235 is a 54 engine so the BB is 2 degrees ATDC. With todays better gasoline that setting is way too retarded. But since you have a 216 flywhere and if you set it to the BB you're timing is going to be 5 degrees BTDC which is a pretty good setting. You could try setting to 8 degrees BTDC and it would still be OK. Just before the BB is the mark "UC" which means upper center which is true TDC. It could be another ID etched into the flywheel and generally theres a slot next to it or the slot runs between the "U" & "C". The slot is tru top dead center. If you have an adjustable timing light set your timing to the UC mark/slot and try 8 degrees BTDC. If your valves don't ping under load and you've got pretty good pickup you've found your sweet spot. IF the ping retard it to 6 degrees BTDC and test again. The sweet spot is when th evalves don't ping and the engine doesn't hesitate under load.. Good luck.
@@Volfandt so if the BB on my 216 flywheel is 5 degrees BTDC, is that where I should be doing my valve adjustment and setting my distributor on #1? Or should I be using the U|C mark to set valves and distributor? I also have a triangle mark that looks like it is maybe 10 degrees after the BB, not sure how I use that. I currently have set everything up (valves and distributor) based on the BB. Problem is that the engine is overheating extremely fast, in less than 10 minutes.
@@benplummer3627 Hey Ben. Rule of thumb is use the BB for setting timing, use the U/C mark for adjusting the valves. There may be something else thats causing your overheating problem. Heres two common causes. #1) Theres a block drain down on the lower left side (drivers side) block back towards the rear of the engine. Crack it open and observe if the coolant has a strong flow. If it just trickles out you'll need to remove the valve, take a coat hanger or similar and poke around in the block to dislodge the chunks of rust & debris so it flows out the hole. It should gush out. The rust & debris doesn't allow the coolant to cool the 5 & 6 cyls and they overheat. If this is it, flush out the cooling system and then add the new 50/50 antifreeze. #2) Did you or someone else install a 1955 or newer 235 engine in your truck? If so, the waterpump sits higher on the block which causes the fan to sit too high to properly cool the radiator. Heres a link to the adaptor plate: oldchevytrucks.com/mee390.html?gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkubIhL7PhQMVloFaBR3JPwhhEAQYASABEgLfT_D_BwE
@@Volfandt Dave, before I did a first start I did find that the drain only trickled, so at that time I used a wire and some pressurized air to free things up, it was flowing great after that. Once I did get it started, and was having the overheating issue, I then did a complete reverse flush of the block and radiator and got some more junk out, though not so much that I thought it would cause a blockage. This is a 54’ 235, so I believe water pump is in the correct place relative to radiator. I don’t have the large round water pump opening that the later 235’s had.
I just got a 1959 Chevrolet Viking 60 - has the 261 6cylinder in it I believe. Will same info work on that engine for Distributor and Points? Thanks Marine - Semper Fi!
Yesser, the ign is the exact same. The 261 is the big bro to the 235 & 216 engines, they are the same series of engine. Congrats on scoring the 59 w/261. The 261 can make some good power. Semper Fi.
Thank you the rotor had been hitting the contacts inside the cap and after replacing all the components I cant get it to start. My truck is a 1942 Chevy G 506 1.5 ton cargo truck@@Volfandt
@@robertjohnson528 1) Make sure the points open & close when the dist spins. 2) Make sure the wire from the coil that goes to the points isn't grounding out on/in the dist. 3)Make sure the capacitor is connected to the points & coil wire & not grounding out. 4) If you moved the dist while replacing parts static time it. Align the timing pointer with the BB on the flywheel with #1 cyl on the compression/firing stroke. Make sure the rotor is directly aligned with the #1 cyl plug wire. 5) With a multimeter or continuity light slightly turn the dist to the point where the points "just" start to open. Note: the coil "fires" it's high voltage output when the points open Good luck Dave
can you provide a source for a new feedthru block for 235 distributor? Mine was removed when converted to Pertronix; I am going back to points and condenser since Pertronix parts are junk.
I don't know of an aftermarket source. Try www.stovebolt.com and ask aroud on their forums. Lots of knowledge there. It also has a good used parts for sale section. Good luck.
Hey Joshua ( I have a nephew with that 1st name), you need to build a run stand like what the 216 in my video is on. Heres a link to an easy stand. It is advertised as an engine dolly but if you re-enforce it with nut's & bolts as opposed to just wood screws it'll also work as a run stand. Heres the link: www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_dolly.html Course I forgot to add that you'll need to bolt the bellhousing, flywheel & starter up also.
Yessir here we go 💪 💯 😎 🙏 much appreciate all these. Videos for sure.. diidnt get a notification through (tube youb) wtheck tube youb... nonetheless.... THANKS FOR THE REFERENCE. .& MENTION LOL 😆 HAAAHAAA thx bud 👍
I can’t find that bb,best I could do was put the little piece of paper in front of the #1 and wait for it to blow off but the rotor button is pointing to the plug left of #1 and it runs fine but if I try to put rotor on #1 it doesn’t crank
Depends on the cause of it not running. 261's are highly coveted for these old Stovebolt trucks and when you add a 235 "848" head to one you've raised the compression and it's performance to respectable level. A thorough rebuild will run $2500 in parts & machining alone, not counting labor but with that said it'll bolt right in and work with minor mods. As long as the block/head aren't cracked it's well worth pursuing. Good luck.
Sorry MHC, I had to reuse the 216's bellhousing on the 235 so it would bolt to the rear engine/tranny mounts on my 49. The bellhousing in this video is a 54 235 and won't bolt up the the earlier truck frames. Thanks for watching
@@Volfandt yeah mines a 38 pontiac, im on the hunt for one, i know theres a few years that will work, i can also get the adapter plate to adapt a newer trans if need be... i welded my cracked bellhousing to hold me over but of course how long will it hold is the question...
@@MyHairyChin Sometimes a good repair job will last longer than one would think... Heres a link to Stovebolt Truck forum that you may find helpful in your quest: www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary.html Scroll down to the "Swap Meet" section and you'll see a "parts for sale" forum and a " parts wanted" forum. Now the site is for Stovebolt Trucks only but if you sign up you could use those sections to look for needed 216 parts. There's also a "Shop" forum where many knowledgeable folks know these ole engines inside & out and will generally help anyone seeking advice. So good luck on your quest. Dave
Nicee video my friend... nice history on the octane selector always wanted to know 👍only question i hve is or 2 . I didn't know when you referred to the BB it was an actual bb.. I believe mines has the letters BB ill have to check .. its a 51 chevy but it came with a 235 (swapped out i guess) better oiling u know) HIW CAN I FIND OUT THE TRUE TIMING SETTING & what might be a good place to find out what exact block year I have .. thx aa usual my friend . As always 🔥 & your super awesome fir helping them out with that part kudos 👏 to you my friend 😀 bravo lad
Follow the directions I pointed out (having #1 cylinder blow out a piece of napkin) because it'll definitely be on the compression stroke. Make sure you mark the distributor where the rotor button points to #1 plug wire then slowly continue to turn the engine while looking for that BB on the flywheel. Sometimes they are buried under grease & grime but it should be there. If you see the UC mark you'll be GTG.
@@Volfandt lol 😆 your hip with that GTG. I just deciphered. Hajaa... yessirrrr I gotcha on how to go about it appreciate 💯 🙏... was wondering though.. what I would set timing too. I can go off shop manual.. but its a 235 now... might you know a good set point 🤔 & ALSO WHERE 🤔 👀 CAN I RUN THE NUMBERS ON MY BLOCK SO I CAN KNOW EXACTLY 💯 WHAT SHE IS .. I BELIEVE SHE MIGHT BE A 60 BLOCK.. SO FAR.. IDK THOUGH... THX U BUDDY 😎
@@OGSHAKER2020 There is a block serial number stamped on the block just behind the distributor. It's on the same boss that the distributor's octane adjuster bolts to the block. This website may help you decipher it: chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm As for timing, try setting to 6 degrees BTDC and test it under load in high gear. If the balves clank retard it one degree at a time until they stop. If it hesitates under the same test try advancing it 1 degree at a time until the hesitation stops r the valves start clanking then back it off until they stop. Thats how to do a "road test" timing adjustment. Good luck.
@@Volfandt awesome 👌 👏 😎 gonna check that site 😀 out for sure DAVE 👍. Road test meaning I'll be listening for the valves as I'm driving it .. ? correct lol 😆 🤦♂️ .. right on. (Can't wait to try this all out) 😤👍
THANK YOU! I replaced my points and all the other bs under the cap and I couldn’t get it in time but showing me how you aligned everything in the beginning, finding Tdc of cylinder one made all the difference. All I had to do was then plug each wire in after I found plug one on the distributor cover and I’m in business!
👍
Nice job sir, I have a couple 235 six cylinder motors so I enjoy seeing fellows work on them. 👍
Thanks RJG. 👍
Great! Clear, well produced and informative. Also he must have had the cleanest hands in the business by the time he finished! 😊
Good one Dave.. There was a guy in my neighborhood who pulled his distributor out of his Chevy truck and couldn't get it back in.. to make a long story short, the slot in the oil pump had moved and the distributor wouldn't go all the way down.. when they turned it so it would seat, it wasn't pointing to #1.. So I finally figured out that the slot had moved, so I got a long screwdriver 🪛 and turned the slot until it lined up.. it took me several tries to get it... Sometimes those distributors can be a real pain..
Take that 216, clean it up good, paint it and make a piece of garage art out of it.. I'd shoot a squirt of atf in each cyl to keep it lubricated... Dave I thoroughly enjoyed the video and thx for taking us along for the ride.. Dave God Bless and take care my friend..
Thanks Gary. Glad you figured out to turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver. The SBC's oil pump is driven the same way. You might run into it again. Have a good 'un my friend.
Appreciate your explanation and instructions on the Chevy six! Great videos❤
Good video Dave, if you follow those steps you'll be in good shape, thanks for sharing, catch you soon buddy
Thanks Mike
This was very detailed and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks for watching 👍
good to see content on these old 6 cylinders
Thanks Rick
You should do a video on how to decode the serial # to find out what year and size these motors are. And how the find out what one of these motors came out of. For example. I have a 1951 chevy styleline deluxe with 216 inline six and 3 in the tree but I searched my engine serial # and it says it's a 1948 216 passenger vehicle but it does say what kind of passanger vehicle. This may be helpful for other and myself for purchasing the correct engine parts. Thank and you videos are very helpful. Keep up good work ps. And do a. Video on installing rear main. Rope seal also.
I measured the length from the bottom of distributor to the Vacuum advance plate that sits on the block. This ensures oil pump engagement when the plate seats properly. I also have a complete rebuilt pertronix updated original 216/235 distributor for sale on stovebolt. ps dave, my 1941 customer is reporting great summer drives in that red/black truck.. Very happy. Thanks for the help.
Good suggestion and great to hear your customer is enjoying his Stovebolt.
Excellent video, Just what I was looking for!
Glad you found something useful. Thanks for watching adaboy4z
One thing to keep in mind is Chevrolet used 10 MM Spark Plugs until 19 47 then increased the Plug thread to 14 MM which greatly improve engine performance.
thank you so much it help me a lot
👍
Very helpful video thank you very much answered a lot of questions
Thanks for watching Roland
This video will be very helpful to me when I reinstall my 216 back into my 49 that was rebuilt 20 yrs ago then pulled out to begin restoration. It will be going back in soon but I misplaced the rear mount bolts. Can you tell me what size and length the original bolts should be?
Hey Alan. If you're asking about the bellhousing mount-to-frame bolts it's been too many moons since I did the swap, but with that said, they're either 5/16 or 3/8 and maybe 2 - 2.5" long. Good news is the engine and tranny will sit on the frame without being bolted up until you get some bolts installed. Good luck with your install.
@@Volfandt Thanks 👍, all your 49 videos will be very helpful to me to finish my dream.
The vacuum advance collar screw got loose, so now the vacuum advance isn’t moving the distributor on my 235. Does it have to be clocked or lined up before I tighten it? Thanks
Kinda sorta. This is what I'd do.
1) Take the cap off to the side & set the Octane selector to "0".
2) set the engine to #1 cyl TDC on it's compression stroke. (the timing BB on the flywheel should line up with the pointer)
3) static time the engine by slowly rotating the distributor to the point where the points "just" open.
(either use an ohm meter or a continuity light).
(With an ohm meter, set it to read ohms, disconnect the coil wire at the distributor., put the black meter lead to ground on the distributor body and the red to the connector on the distributor where the coil wire connected. With the points closed you should read a short or "0" ohms, if not slowly rotate the distributor back & forth until you do. Now rotate it CCW to the point where the points just open - the meter will read "open" or infinity or whatever your meter displays when the leads aren't touching each other in the ohms setting).
4) Lock the vacuum advance collar to the distributor & put the cap back on.
5) the engine should start & run at this setting.
6) time the engine with a timing light and you should be GTG
Good luck
Got it. If you ever get the chance, an instructional vid would be good too. I just subscribed. Thank You
Thanks for another great instructional video Dave. Hand turned the flywheel to TDC on the BB, got the rotor pointing to #1, plugs are (now) in correct order (153624) and even gapped the points. However the starter doesn't have enough "zing" to make everything sing! Should I pull the starter and bench test it? Regards, Rob
Hey Rob. 6V or 12V? I'd suspect the battery being alittle low. Bench test the starter but even a weak starter will spin. Check the brushes and make sure there's enough to contact the commutator.
Good luck
Gracias maestro.
Saludos.
Thanks for watching 👍
I have a 51 skyline with a 235. I’m having issues getting the octane adjuster to move to 0. I loosened the bolt holding it down by the degree hash marks, but can’t seem to get it to budge and it’s hard to see what it’s exactly attached to, to get a grip and shift it. I had the distributor itself loose and was able to rotate that around, but not the octane adjuster. Is it all connected to the vacuum advance? Thank you.
Yes, the octance adjuster is connected to the vacuum adjustment assembly.
Sounds like the distributor adjustment is such that it's maxing out the octane adjustment.
On the backside of the distributor between it and the engine side cover you should see an adjustment screw. If you loosen it you should be able to spin the distributor freely inside the vacuum adustment assembly without loosening the octane adjustment bolt. Now you should be able to loosen the octane adjustment bolt and set it to "0". You'll then need to readjust your timing.
I would leave the octane adjustment on "0" and adjust the timing via the adjustment screw on the back side of the distributor. That way you can easily readjust your timing if necessary via the octane adjustment.
Good luck.
Have you done any videos on how to set the timing, on a 54 belair 235
The best way to set timing on these old 6 bangers is to set the maximum mechanical advance to between 28 degrees BTDC to 30 degrees BTDV at around 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. After setting ths reconnect the vacuum advance and road test. If it pings under acceleration retard the timing a degree or 2 at a time until it stops pinging. If it doesn't ping but has a hessitation when accelerating advance the timing a degree or 2. You want to find the happy medium where it doesn't hessitate and doesn't ping. My engine isn't stock but you can watch the follwing linked video to see if it helps. Thanks for warching.
ua-cam.com/video/FHWRSV-Qbic/v-deo.html
Very well done!
👍
Very helpful your video, thanks i just bought a 1951 chevy two door here in Mexico, greetings from Allende NL Mexico
Hey Manuel, I'm glad you found something useful. These old Stovebolt engines are very stout. JUst keep them properly serviced and they're dependable too. Thanks for watching.
If I put a 216 flywheel and bell housing on a 235, is the BB still TDC, or should I adjust away (one way or another) since it’s a 235? Asking because I think I’m having timing problems and this video is the first time I had seen any notes on a difference between 235 and 216 flywheel timing marks.
Hey Ben. The BB on the 216's flywheel is 5 degrees BTDC and on most 235 flywheels the BB is 2 degrees ATDC. So you can see theres a big difference. My 235 is a 54 engine so the BB is 2 degrees ATDC. With todays better gasoline that setting is way too retarded. But since you have a 216 flywhere and if you set it to the BB you're timing is going to be 5 degrees BTDC which is a pretty good setting. You could try setting to 8 degrees BTDC and it would still be OK. Just before the BB is the mark "UC" which means upper center which is true TDC. It could be another ID etched into the flywheel and generally theres a slot next to it or the slot runs between the "U" & "C". The slot is tru top dead center.
If you have an adjustable timing light set your timing to the UC mark/slot and try 8 degrees BTDC. If your valves don't ping under load and you've got pretty good pickup you've found your sweet spot. IF the ping retard it to 6 degrees BTDC and test again. The sweet spot is when th evalves don't ping and the engine doesn't hesitate under load..
Good luck.
That’s so much for the response, I believe this will be very helpful.
@@Volfandt so if the BB on my 216 flywheel is 5 degrees BTDC, is that where I should be doing my valve adjustment and setting my distributor on #1? Or should I be using the U|C mark to set valves and distributor? I also have a triangle mark that looks like it is maybe 10 degrees after the BB, not sure how I use that. I currently have set everything up (valves and distributor) based on the BB. Problem is that the engine is overheating extremely fast, in less than 10 minutes.
@@benplummer3627 Hey Ben. Rule of thumb is use the BB for setting timing, use the U/C mark for adjusting the valves.
There may be something else thats causing your overheating problem. Heres two common causes.
#1) Theres a block drain down on the lower left side (drivers side) block back towards the rear of the engine. Crack it open and observe if the coolant has a strong flow. If it just trickles out you'll need to remove the valve, take a coat hanger or similar and poke around in the block to dislodge the chunks of rust & debris so it flows out the hole. It should gush out. The rust & debris doesn't allow the coolant to cool the 5 & 6 cyls and they overheat. If this is it, flush out the cooling system and then add the new 50/50 antifreeze.
#2) Did you or someone else install a 1955 or newer 235 engine in your truck?
If so, the waterpump sits higher on the block which causes the fan to sit too high to properly cool the radiator. Heres a link to the adaptor plate:
oldchevytrucks.com/mee390.html?gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkubIhL7PhQMVloFaBR3JPwhhEAQYASABEgLfT_D_BwE
@@Volfandt Dave, before I did a first start I did find that the drain only trickled, so at that time I used a wire and some pressurized air to free things up, it was flowing great after that. Once I did get it started, and was having the overheating issue, I then did a complete reverse flush of the block and radiator and got some more junk out, though not so much that I thought it would cause a blockage. This is a 54’ 235, so I believe water pump is in the correct place relative to radiator. I don’t have the large round water pump opening that the later 235’s had.
I just got a 1959 Chevrolet Viking 60 - has the 261 6cylinder in it I believe. Will same info work on that engine for Distributor and Points? Thanks Marine - Semper Fi!
Yesser, the ign is the exact same. The 261 is the big bro to the 235 & 216 engines, they are the same series of engine. Congrats on scoring the 59 w/261. The 261 can make some good power.
Semper Fi.
What size the inside bolts that go behind pan
Great video thanks
👍
What if my 235 distributor has up and down play is that a problem??
Yes, that indicates something is worn as these distributors are designed to rotate smoothly without any wobble or play in any direction.
Thank you the rotor had been hitting the contacts inside the cap and after replacing all the components I cant get it to start. My truck is a 1942 Chevy G 506 1.5 ton cargo truck@@Volfandt
@@robertjohnson528
1) Make sure the points open & close when the dist spins.
2) Make sure the wire from the coil that goes to the points isn't grounding out on/in the dist.
3)Make sure the capacitor is connected to the points & coil wire & not grounding out.
4) If you moved the dist while replacing parts static time it.
Align the timing pointer with the BB on the flywheel with #1 cyl on the compression/firing stroke. Make sure the rotor is directly aligned with the #1 cyl plug wire.
5) With a multimeter or continuity light slightly turn the dist to the point where the points "just" start to open.
Note: the coil "fires" it's high voltage output when the points open
Good luck
Dave
@@Volfandt thank you
can you provide a source for a new feedthru block for 235 distributor? Mine was removed when converted to Pertronix; I am going back to points and condenser since Pertronix parts are junk.
I don't know of an aftermarket source. Try www.stovebolt.com and ask aroud on their forums. Lots of knowledge there. It also has a good used parts for sale section.
Good luck.
Thank you Sir
Thanks for watching Mark. 👍
Good morning how can I do a compression test on a 48 216 on an engine stand
Hey Joshua ( I have a nephew with that 1st name), you need to build a run stand like what the 216 in my video is on. Heres a link to an easy stand. It is advertised as an engine dolly but if you re-enforce it with nut's & bolts as opposed to just wood screws it'll also work as a run stand. Heres the link:
www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_dolly.html
Course I forgot to add that you'll need to bolt the bellhousing, flywheel & starter up also.
Yessir here we go 💪 💯 😎 🙏 much appreciate all these. Videos for sure.. diidnt get a notification through (tube youb) wtheck tube youb... nonetheless.... THANKS FOR THE REFERENCE. .& MENTION LOL 😆 HAAAHAAA thx bud 👍
I can’t find that bb,best I could do was put the little piece of paper in front of the #1 and wait for it to blow off but the rotor button is pointing to the plug left of #1 and it runs fine but if I try to put rotor on #1 it doesn’t crank
A guy that lives by me has a non running 261 for sale. Thought about buying it but don't know if it's worth what he wants for it.
Depends on the cause of it not running. 261's are highly coveted for these old Stovebolt trucks and when you add a 235 "848" head to one you've raised the compression and it's performance to respectable level. A thorough rebuild will run $2500 in parts & machining alone, not counting labor but with that said it'll bolt right in and work with minor mods. As long as the block/head aren't cracked it's well worth pursuing. Good luck.
Im in need of that 216 bellhousing, mines cracked...
Sorry MHC, I had to reuse the 216's bellhousing on the 235 so it would bolt to the rear engine/tranny mounts on my 49. The bellhousing in this video is a 54 235 and won't bolt up the the earlier truck frames. Thanks for watching
@@Volfandt yeah mines a 38 pontiac, im on the hunt for one, i know theres a few years that will work, i can also get the adapter plate to adapt a newer trans if need be... i welded my cracked bellhousing to hold me over but of course how long will it hold is the question...
@@MyHairyChin Sometimes a good repair job will last longer than one would think...
Heres a link to Stovebolt Truck forum that you may find helpful in your quest: www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary.html
Scroll down to the "Swap Meet" section and you'll see a "parts for sale" forum and a " parts wanted" forum.
Now the site is for Stovebolt Trucks only but if you sign up you could use those sections to look for needed 216 parts. There's also a "Shop" forum where many knowledgeable folks know these ole engines inside & out and will generally help anyone seeking advice.
So good luck on your quest.
Dave
Nicee video my friend... nice history on the octane selector always wanted to know 👍only question i hve is or 2 . I didn't know when you referred to the BB it was an actual bb.. I believe mines has the letters BB ill have to check .. its a 51 chevy but it came with a 235 (swapped out i guess) better oiling u know) HIW CAN I FIND OUT THE TRUE TIMING SETTING & what might be a good place to find out what exact block year I have .. thx aa usual my friend . As always 🔥 & your super awesome fir helping them out with that part kudos 👏 to you my friend 😀 bravo lad
Follow the directions I pointed out (having #1 cylinder blow out a piece of napkin) because it'll definitely be on the compression stroke. Make sure you mark the distributor where the rotor button points to #1 plug wire then slowly continue to turn the engine while looking for that BB on the flywheel. Sometimes they are buried under grease & grime but it should be there. If you see the UC mark you'll be GTG.
@@Volfandt lol 😆 your hip with that GTG. I just deciphered. Hajaa... yessirrrr I gotcha on how to go about it appreciate 💯 🙏... was wondering though.. what I would set timing too. I can go off shop manual.. but its a 235 now... might you know a good set point 🤔 & ALSO WHERE 🤔 👀 CAN I RUN THE NUMBERS ON MY BLOCK SO I CAN KNOW EXACTLY 💯 WHAT SHE IS .. I BELIEVE SHE MIGHT BE A 60 BLOCK.. SO FAR.. IDK THOUGH... THX U BUDDY 😎
@@OGSHAKER2020 There is a block serial number stamped on the block just behind the distributor. It's on the same boss that the distributor's octane adjuster bolts to the block. This website may help you decipher it: chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm
As for timing, try setting to 6 degrees BTDC and test it under load in high gear. If the balves clank retard it one degree at a time until they stop. If it hesitates under the same test try advancing it 1 degree at a time until the hesitation stops r the valves start clanking then back it off until they stop. Thats how to do a "road test" timing adjustment.
Good luck.
@@Volfandt awesome 👌 👏 😎 gonna check that site 😀 out for sure DAVE 👍. Road test meaning I'll be listening for the valves as I'm driving it .. ? correct lol 😆 🤦♂️ .. right on. (Can't wait to try this all out) 😤👍
Thanks!
Thanks A59APACHE