Fuel Pump Replacement - ULTIMATE GUIDE - Ford Mustang (1994-2004)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- [Replacement parts for a Mustang 1994-2004]
Fuel Filter - Motorcraft OEM Part FG-1114: amzn.to/2VFGOdu
Fuel Pump with BOTH socks, gaskets and OEM electric harness adapter - amzn.to/3nw4EFn (Not soldering needed on this one!!)
COMPLETE Fuel Pump Assembly: amzn.to/3p6O4MG (2001-2004 Years only)
COMPLETE Fuel Pump Assembly: amzn.to/34o9mgV (1999-2000 Years only)
Ford Mustang Fuel Filler Neck Grommet Seal OEM 2R3Z-9072-AA (Cheap Compatible): amzn.to/3h0OKR9
[Specialty Tools]
Fuel Filter Removal Tool: amzn.to/2pgkMS9
Siphon Pro XL - Largest Siphon for Water Gas Diesel (Good!): amzn.to/38eA8cR
Gas Siphon for Water Gas Diesel (Cheap!): amzn.to/38jLH2o
Cheap Multimeter: amzn.to/3raflQg
[Tools]
Cheap 3 ton car jack stands: amzn.to/2B200bL
Cheap 2 ton jack: amzn.to/2IJggT8
GreatNeck BB18 1/2 Drive 18 Inch Breaker Bar (Cheap and good!!): amzn.to/2p7LOeX
Large metric socket set, includes 34" and more (Good quality!): amzn.to/32Ive3Z
Metric Wrench Set 8mm - 22mm: amzn.to/2xQn3ot
Socket Set 123pc Metric and Imperial - Good Quality: amzn.to/2NhqhL9
TEKTON 4966 3/8-Inch Drive Impact Extension Bar Set, Cr-V, 3-Piece: amzn.to/3byEkEo
[Electronics]
Soldering Iron kit with everything you need: amzn.to/37uYXCh
Heat Shrink Tubing 6 Colors 11 Sizes Tubing Set Combo: amzn.to/2WsMXuA
Fuel Pump Replacement - ULTIMATE GUIDE - Ford Mustang (1994-2004)
The car in the video is a Mustang GT 2003 V8 4.6L. However, the procedures shown in the video will apply to most vehicles and applications.
WATCH THE OTHER VIDEOS ON MY CHANNEL!!! I REPLACE: TIE RODS, LOWER BALL JOINTS, CV AXLES, SWAY BAR LINKS AND MORE!!!
SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE!
#Mustang #FordMustang #MustangGT
Video File Created Date: Thursday, 17 December, 2020 (Video may or may not have been captured on this date, it shows the date the video was last converted.)
-- Video uploaded and managed using UA-cam Bulk Uploader for the Lazy!
-- Manage and Auto-Tag your UA-cam videos offline... Then upload!
-- ginkosolutions....
-- GinkoSolutions.com
Video Tags:
fuel, pump, replacement, guide, ford, mustang, 1994-2004, fuel pump replacement, fuel pump replacement ford mustang, fuel pump replacement mustang, fuel pump replacement mustang gt, fuel pump, mustang gt 2003, fuel pump repair, fuel pump symptoms, fuel pump relay symptoms, fuel pump sound, fuel pump relay, fuel pump test, fuel pump problem, replace a fuel pump, how to replace a fuel pump, mustang 1994-2004, replace the fuel pump, haynes, fuel filter, how to, tutorial
Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description.
If this video helped you, please support the channel here: ko-fi.com/tutorialgenius
Thanks for watching!
Just finished replacing my fuel pump that went out and left my car out of service for the past 3 months. This well done and thorough video helped me step by step and gave me the confidence to do it myself. It felt great turning the ignition and starting the car again for the first time and knowing that it (the fix) worked! The check engine light turned off and the engine sounds great again just like it did before the old pump went out. Thanks a whole bunch! This video has helped me out so much. Bless the folks like you who take the time to create these videos, teach and show people around the world how to work on their own cars. Not only does it feel great to fix things and get them running again, but you save us a lot of money and headache. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Subbed
I need help please! At 4:17 why does he say turn on car and leave on till dies out, how if the car just cranks but doesnt stay on run? Thanks
@@ronaldsmith7827 he said that because it's just another step in making sure to get rid of/eliminate fuel from the fuel lines. It will minimize the fuel leaking out of the lines when you disconnect them.
But that step only works if your engine actually turns on/runs. If your car doesn't run, you can skip that step and proceed to the next step.
@@johnnyt9405 thanks so much, i am gonna attempt this repair on the weekend.
@@ronaldsmith7827 you're welcome, bro. Good luck. If u have any further questions feel free to ask
@@johnnyt9405 appreciate that brother. You the man 👍🏽😎
You are very good at making these videos in a comprehensive manner!!
Excellent video. I followed this exactly on a 2002 Mustang GT.
Thank you!!!
I just did this today and you make it look so easy.
Bought an 01 bullitt from my neighbor and put in a new pump🥹 2v's sound amazing
Awesome!! 🧨🧨✨🎉
I love your videos finally someone that can show you how to do something and not complicate it
You're welcome! Thank you for the kind comments! :)
Not tryna butter this guys muffins but this guy is one best instructors on UA-cam, !!!
Recently purchased a non running 2001 Mustang with a dead fuel pump.
Currently have everything apart.
Waiting for a new fuel tank. Old tank was full of fuel varnish. Car had been sitting for several years.
Excellent demonstration video. Thank very much.
I am a subscriber now 👍👏
You're welcome! Thanks for the kind comments! :)
Great video! Do you happen to know if the one way check valve is inside the part you replaced or is it somewhere else in the tank? I replaced the whole pump assembly (including the big white plastic assembly) in my 2001 GT about a year ago but now the fuel pressure at the rail leaks down quickly after I turn off the engine and is hard to start if I don't prime with a few key turns first. Based on everything I've read and checked, the "fuel pump one way check valve" is the problem, but I can't determine if that is located inside or outside the part that you replaced in the video.
thank you this guide was a huge help
Thnx it was a very helpful video
Most welcome 😊
Great video. I've got to do my son's today or tomorrow. Thanks
You're welcome! Good luck!
I just wanted to add that the filler grommet should be installed before installing the fuel pump assembly. My grommet got away from me and ended up in the tank which required that I remove the fuel pump assembly to get the grommet out. Tomorrow I'll be re-installing the tank and hope all goes well.
Good luck for tomorrow! 🤞🤞
@@TutorialGenius Thanks. All went well except the fuel gauge quit working after a few days when I gassed up again. I had to repair the wire to the float assembly before re-installing everything but I might not have done as good a job as I thought. Can the fuel hat and pump assembly be removed without completely removing the tank (can it be dropped just enough to remove the hat bolts and pull out the assembly)? It took 4 hours to re-install the tank - I want to avoid taking the tank completely off if possible.
@@genericdude6551 Ouch, that's not good! Not that I'm aware of 😬😬
@@TutorialGenius Do you know why my SN95 shop manual shows 5 wires (2 for the pump and 3 for the float) going into the fuel pump housing but there are only 4 wires attached to the hat?
In the process of doing my 01 GT appreciate the throughness.
You're welcome! Good luck! :)
At least your pump assembly was installed correct compared to mine.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
You are the man! Awesome video
You're welcome! Glad it helped! :)
Nice video man
You help me a lot !!
Hey man…First off, your video is so good that it’s made want to replace my fuel pump myself and I’m looking forward to it. I just tested the voltage of the pins and I was getting .01s and some .03s and .04s and some pins had no response at all. In the video, you’re getting double digit readings. Could this be my problem? Not the fuel pump but the pin switch? Thanks..looking forward to your response. Thanks in advance for your time.
Having the same issue, did you ever find a solution to your problem?
Check the fuse, relay and grounds!
nows a good time to cut an access hole in the spare tire well for next fuel pump job
Debatable.
The OEM pump lasted 220K miles. Then you have to ask yourself: Is it worth removing/covering trunk lining to access, also investing in a grinder and measure and cut a sizable hole for a potential change at ~400K? Will I even have the car at 400k+!? haha! I chose not to. It wasn't too difficult and didnt take too long to do, but the option is there for others for sure!
@@TutorialGenius my oem pump lasted only 60k- you decide
@@ufartface I second that it's not worth doing too. 200K here.
My pump hasn’t failed, just needs to be upgraded
My pump hasn’t failed, just needs to be upgraded
Wow cool video. I have a 1994 buick park ave with a dead fuel pump, and even tho its not the same car, your video will help me change out the pump.
Thanks for making this video!
You're welcome! 😊
Great video! Thank you!!!
Glad you liked it!
Great video
Thanks for the visit
A job well done
Thanks buddy!
How did you get that filler neck back into that brand new grommet? Did you have a helping hand? Even with grease, it's an extremely tight fit. The tank moves all over the place. There is no possible way to do it while it's still in the strap. I even tried just strapping the passenger side up a tiny bit but my filler neck won't even begin to start at that angle. I've never run into one this tough until now.
It was extremely difficult, I agree! Definitely the crux of the job! Just a lot of persistence and patience
@@TutorialGenius Thanks for the response. I was hoping there was some type of trick that would make it easier. I wish I had something really heavy to put up against the left side and keep it from moving while I force it in from the right side. I've done this job on several vehicles but this is the first time I ran into this. I guess I'll just have to muster up enough strength to get down there and force that baby in. I'm getting too old for this stuff.
Returnless systems are groundside switched with a floating ground. I wonder how many people replace their fuel pump to realize it's a faulty module.
Great video man! I already got my mach 1 jacked up. Gonna follow this step by step. I also have a valve cover replacement video on my page for cobra engines 4.6 dohc
Also, when I test one of the pins, I could hear a whizzing…like was it maybe the pump priming?
8 dollars my butt for that gasket, cost me 19 after tax 😂 very helpful video though. I’ve got a 99’ base model 35th anniversary mustang that’s got a bad fuel pump
Ouch! Some people have to make a profit, some more than others it seems! Glad it helped!
Do you know what those little white clips are called that you pry out with at 6:57?
fuel line retaining clip
How has the longevity of the pump been?
Still going! It's been a year so far since the job.
I usually don't let my gas tank run on/to empty, that's usually a fuel pump killer
I just replace the fuel pump and pickup assembly but now it’s blowing the fuse is it a bad unit?
Perhaps so! You can probably confirm with the old unit
@@TutorialGenius I already did I’m gonna take it to get a new key for it I’m thinking it’s the chip now I replaced the fuel relay and it’s not starting but now it say theft on the dash
What is the white thing the fuel tube runs through??
My yellow clip broke. Is it necessary to replace or could do something alternatively?
You can probably do something make-shift... These become very brittle in hot weather, I snapped one of mine too! haha
@@TutorialGenius someone told me to just use a small enough zip tie that would slip through. Seems to work so far. Thanks for the tutorial, I'm not a mechanic but I'm good at following directions and this saved me a ton!
Yes it sure would! If you live in a hot climate, perhaps get a metal one, otherwise itll snap with the heat!@@drfdrf
So what if you're not getting 12 volts to the electrical harness?
and the ignition is in the ON position, then it could be a fuse or wiring issue
@@TutorialGenius I checked the fuses amd was receiving 12 volts, but I did take it to the mechanic and he said the fuel pump was only putting out 3.2 volts ... he said it cranked up and was working then she gave out after lunch.. now he believes it's the crank sensor
@@thisisaroc hmmm thats a really weird turn of events.
[Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Crankshaft ] Position Sensor
Issues Starting the Vehicle.
Intermittent Stalling.
Check Engine Light Comes On.
Uneven Acceleration.
Engine Misfires or Vibrates.
Rough Idle and/or Vibrating Engine.
Reduced Gas Mileage.
If the harness isn't giving 12v, and the fuse is ok, and you have 12v at the front end, then its the wiring between the two.
The only reason everything would make sense if you were using the multimeter incorrectly or using a broken multimeter.
What if I hear the humming sound when the system is priming but car won’t start? I already hooked it up to the fuel pressure tester and it shows no pressure. Does this mean my fuel pump went out ?
Not necessarily. Pump could be fine. Could be a damaged line leading to the fuel rail.
Or fuel filter is clogged which will burn out the pump eventually if you keep priming
Between 4.5 and 5.0 MM? Like 3/16" maybe? Don't you guys have SAE sockets there across the pond? 😂
Internationally, it's a bit of a running joke about the US still using imperial measurements. No. Nobody uses imperial anymore, its a very old system of measurement and for very good reason.
Only USA, Liberia and Myanmar (Burma) use it as it was introduced by the British way back when, but the world has moved on. Liberia are going metric soon too.
One day the US will move out of the dark ages, but I think we'll all be long gone and buried by then! haha!
@@TutorialGenius As a machinist of around 35 years, I can speak metric and imperial with a fair degree of fluency, but still, to this day, the standard minimal increment of size in most US machine shops is the "thou" or "point", equal to 0.001", or the "tenth", equal to 0.0001". The number of imperial micrometer sets, calipers and other measuring instruments, industry standard specs, etc, in circulation and application, compared to the metric ones (in the USA, at least) is so dominant - well, you can imagine why we just convert units where blueprints and engineering are concerned. The metric system seems more logical because you're accustomed to a numerical system based upon powers of ten, but it's truly no more inherently logical than the fractional imperial system based upon powers of two. I'm fact, there are subtle justifications for the antiquated imperial system. If we merely swapped out decimal system for a binary one, them the imperial system would appear the "neater" one. And let's face it, the only reason we use a decimal system is because we were once proto-human/monkeys that initially relied upon counting on our hairy digits.
@@winstonsmith7293 There are for and against for everything, sure! I just don't see this for the imperial system as a whole in todays world, mostly because everybody has moved on. International sourcing of parts will be a nightmare for one and there are many other reasons.
I'm sure this is why NASA finally went metric in the late 00's as have most car companies now.
It's like having Windows XP and everybody has upgraded around you. Your Windows update doesn't work anymore and you can't download new software.... but... If you live in your own bubble, it works just fine.
Yes, we are human, we use powers of 10. 12 would be better, sure. I'm all in favor of 12, I have been since I was 8!
I've lived in the US for over 10 years now, but I also grew up during the time when Europe was phasing out imperial for metric.
So I tend to use: miles, ft lb/s, stones and lbs, pints of beer/milk
and also: mm, cm, (not km), litres
So I usually give torques in ft lb/s and sockets in mm, that is why. It makes no sense to most people, but I figured I make these videos in my own time as a hobby for free, then why not haha!
Thanks for watching!
@@TutorialGenius I'm fairly certain that the Sumerians utilized a sexagesimal (base 60) numerical system, definitively proving beyond all doubt that their civilization was founded by fifteen fingered and toed alien Atlantans.. but I digress. Thanks for the tutorial.
Perhaps the rest of the world will be able to get a man on the moon because of the metric system. Oh, wait, that still hasn't happened. @@TutorialGenius
Junk cars
junk cars are a great source of parts! I usually pull parts from cars each week