What’s a good model? I’m thinking now that maybe I should just use a grinder, go to bare metal, urethane prime, skim coat and reprime and forget the file sander.
@@afwoods I've been messing with 68 Fords since I was a kid (and that was a loooooooong time ago). I couldn't find a decent one up here back in the 80s LOL.
I think the lesson here is you get what you pay for. Having restored several vehicles, OEM or reputable aftermaket suppliers are the way to go unless you like cheap ill fitting or poorly stamped tin foil parts and spending hours making the crap fit. My 1971 Mustang has NOS and used for parts on it with any parts.
Zero fiberglass is definitely ideal but good luck restoring a car with rust and not using even a little bit. Same with filler. Sure, a perfect metal finished car is what you want but most people understand you’ve got a little bit of filler in spots. It’s not stuffed with fiberglass and filler jammed in.
That air file is totally junk by a good one! Dual piston
What’s a good model? I’m thinking now that maybe I should just use a grinder, go to bare metal, urethane prime, skim coat and reprime and forget the file sander.
@afwoods The speedway system air files are cheap but their dual pistons and they are good they last for quite a while as long as you keep them oiled
@afwoods Central pneumatic is another good one!
Should use a DA sander
I will be later. Right now I’m still roughing stuff in.
Man that thing is clean. Nice project!
You think my Merc is clean, you should see my Galaxie! :) ua-cam.com/video/7010vHEtkpw/v-deo.htmlsi=jYvHxAtmozRsSHr_
@@afwoods I've been messing with 68 Fords since I was a kid (and that was a loooooooong time ago). I couldn't find a decent one up here back in the 80s LOL.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Is that Claremont, San Diego? I’d think there would have been lots to choose from.
@@afwoods No, about 3000 miles NE of there in Frozen Canada.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Ah, that explains it. As a native Arizonan I’m spoiled, but this Mercury is from Washington State, hence the rust issues.
I think the lesson here is you get what you pay for. Having restored several vehicles, OEM or reputable aftermaket suppliers are the way to go unless you like cheap ill fitting or poorly stamped tin foil parts and spending hours making the crap fit. My 1971 Mustang has NOS and used for parts on it with any parts.
These fenders fit well despite technically being for a different model car. I’ll weld up the trim holes I don’t need and it will be fine.
Another comment would be a "Fluff and Stuff" with fiberglass and body filler is not a restoration.
Zero fiberglass is definitely ideal but good luck restoring a car with rust and not using even a little bit. Same with filler. Sure, a perfect metal finished car is what you want but most people understand you’ve got a little bit of filler in spots. It’s not stuffed with fiberglass and filler jammed in.