Thanks man, good diy. Only thing you left out was valve cover removal. I was told to bend the heater hose down, lift up on the front of the valve cover and pull out from the passenger side.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. To be honest i couldn’t tell you how i did it. Was so long ago now. I remember you could not pull one bolt out due to clearance issues and had to twist it and pull it out i do believe.
Thanks for mentioning valve adjustment should be performed STONE COLD! if your struggling with crankcase breather removal use oil-filter wrench 3”5/8 counter clockwise off, be careful with that breather cap is expensive!, when removing valve cover i do remove the heater core hose next to valve cover makes it a bit easier…doing my 3rd truck tomorrow morning…if the valve cover gasket is leaking but still fairly soft I place some O-rings under the top Grommets as to create a little additional down-force.
So when rotating to BDC its clockwise when standing in front of the truck? And when you say rotate 360, the HB will rotate 360 but the pump just goes the 180 correct.
I have a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 w/5.9L 24 Valve engine. I also have the OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual. Below are the settings as per this manual. Hope it helps someone. Some video's are saying that valve lash adjustment helps fuel economy and EGT. They don't know what they are talking about. Note that the valve lash adjustment does NOT help fuel economy or EGT according to the manual. Read below what it says EXACTLY from the OFFICIAL manual. Note also the spec's are very LARGE on the lash adjustment. One does NOT have to have them EXACTLY at 0.020 for the Exhaust and 0.010 for the Intake. Therefore, CHECK your settings according to the Maximum and Minimum settings below. If they are within this range, it is NOT necessary to make changes. In other words, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Below this line is the OFFICIAL (by-the-book) settings. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If measured valve lash falls within these specifications no adjustment/reset is necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has to adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise. Intake Exhaust Minimum Minimum 0.152 mm (0.006 in.) 0.381 mm (0.015 in.) Maximum Maximum 0.381 mm (0.015 in.) 0.762 mm (0.038 in.) If adjustment is necessary, use the settings below: Exhaust: 0.020 Intake: 0.010 Top Dead Center Intake: 1-2-4 Exhaust: 1-3-5 ----------------------------------- Bottom Dead Center Intake: 3-5-6 Exhaust: 2-4-6
Thanks for the reply. On badly worn stuff if valves are far out it could for sure affect economy. Nothing crazy but yes. As far as EGTs go say you have a performance motor running high EGTs large injectors, lots of boost etc. By making your valves open and close wider by setting to the narrow end of specs would improve your volumetric efficiency of the motor and therefore it would breath easier. This would be less restrictive and could lower temps because more efficient. Overall effects are very minimal.
Thanks Schneids15. However, we're talking about a NORMAL engine. By the way.. a MOTOR is electrical. We're talking about an ENGINE. Note also both my book and the Cummins dealer (not the Dodge Stealer) state that a normal 5.9L Cummins 24v engine will usually have to be adjusted and checked out at 350,000 miles. There are some models of this engine which has over a million miles on them. In closing... unless one has modified his engine and other components to handle the bigger output (turbo, tranny and more)... there's no sense in getting too excited about valve lash adjustment vs. EGT. And, the SMALL amount of volumetric efficiency" gained is nothing to write home about. :-) Please remember that Dodge and Cummins spend MILLIONS in DESIGN, ENGINEERING and TESTING these engines prior to putting them in trucks for sale. They KNOW their engines and RECOMMEND the spec's.
That is correct. However i had the time to check this and it is not a hard job. Cummins spends millions on design but it does not mean the guy on the factory floor put everything to perfect spec. Have heard of trucks with not very many miles being out of spec. That is why i tackled this.
I've got over 200k on my '99 and I've checked my lash twice over the years. Still within spec's. My son has checked his at 248k and within spec's. I talked to the Cummins shop here in San Diego and they said it is "very rare" for them to have to adjust valve lash. In fact, they say my engine doesn't need an overhaul till about 350,000 miles. If you like, you can prove this by calling them at: Cummins Sales & Service 310 N. Johnson Ave El Cajon, CA 92020 Tel | 800-993-4373 So you may have "heard of trucks with not very many miles being out of spec," but I've found that "they say" and "heard" is usually incorrect. Unfortunately, this is NOT a job for the average backyard mechanic. I can do it as I'm a mechanic (I even hold Jet Engine licenses) and you can do it and your video is okay... but it is NOT "simple" as you state for Joe Average. To reiterate: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
@@kolinken9524 As a somewhat of a newbie to the diesel world this a solid "how to" video & I do appreciate your message as well "Don't fix what isn't broke" with all of the mis-information out here on these 5.9's this video is right on IMHO. Thx for sharing.
Careful laying tools on a battery. Not a good practice. Those pliers have rubber/plastic sleeves, so likely be ok. However it is not a good idea. In the middle of a job, laying over a fender, frustrated about something, it is easy to lay a wrench on there. Then watch the fire works.
You guys on UA-cam crack me up. You never ever show the hard stuff, such as the last cover bolt removal, and how hard it is to get it out. You cut out all the hard shit and make it look so easy, when in fact it is quite the undertaking. Someone should make a video showing the whole process not just the easy stuff. your video is lame!!
Thanks for the comment. I indeed do film the whole thing. Trust me if it is not you i get another guy commenting saying my video is too long and lame. That is why i shorten it. That back bolt is no problem. Loosen it and leave it in the cover. Pull the cover with the bolt and you will have 0 issues. Josh
Don’t take any of the bolts all the way out! Break them loose with a wrench till you can turn them with your fingers then as soon as you feel they are unthreaded, Stop! Take the spring clamp off the heater hose connection closest to the Valve cover and move it out of your way. Pull the Valve cover off favoring the passenger side.
Thanks man, good diy. Only thing you left out was valve cover removal. I was told to bend the heater hose down, lift up on the front of the valve cover and pull out from the passenger side.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. To be honest i couldn’t tell you how i did it. Was so long ago now. I remember you could not pull one bolt out due to clearance issues and had to twist it and pull it out i do believe.
Best video if seen yet. Straight forward. Thanks man
I appreciate it man! Try and get right down to it and make it easy. Thanks!
Great video man. Thanks a ton easy after installing head studs to double check lash.
Thanks that was a good vid. I have to rebuild my injectors today and this will help for the checking of the valve adjustment.
Great "How To", DIY Video, Straight forward. Thx for sharing.!
Thank you for the comment!
Nice truck.I hope to get one like it.
Thanks for every things.💐💐
Great video man.
Good vid bud 👍
Thanks for mentioning valve adjustment should be performed STONE COLD! if your struggling with crankcase breather removal use oil-filter wrench 3”5/8 counter clockwise off, be careful with that breather cap is expensive!, when removing valve cover i do remove the heater core hose next to valve cover makes it a bit easier…doing my 3rd truck tomorrow morning…if the valve cover gasket is leaking but still fairly soft I place some O-rings under the top Grommets as to create a little additional down-force.
24v acceptable valve lash range is between 0.006 and 0.015 for intake and exhaust acceptable range 0.015 to 0.030
So when rotating to BDC its clockwise when standing in front of the truck? And when you say rotate 360, the HB will rotate 360 but the pump just goes the 180 correct.
Yeah I can't stand it when people don't explain themselves
I have a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 w/5.9L 24 Valve engine. I also have the OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual. Below are the settings as per this manual. Hope it helps someone. Some video's are saying that valve lash adjustment helps fuel economy and EGT. They don't know what they are talking about. Note that the valve lash adjustment does NOT help fuel economy or EGT according to the manual. Read below what it says EXACTLY from the OFFICIAL manual. Note also the spec's are very LARGE on the lash adjustment. One does NOT have to have them EXACTLY at 0.020 for the Exhaust and 0.010 for the Intake. Therefore, CHECK your settings according to the Maximum and Minimum settings below. If they are within this range, it is NOT necessary to make changes. In other words, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Below this line is the OFFICIAL (by-the-book) settings.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If measured valve lash falls within these specifications no adjustment/reset is necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has to adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.
Intake Exhaust
Minimum Minimum
0.152 mm (0.006 in.) 0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
Maximum Maximum
0.381 mm (0.015 in.) 0.762 mm (0.038 in.)
If adjustment is necessary, use the settings below:
Exhaust: 0.020
Intake: 0.010
Top Dead Center
Intake: 1-2-4
Exhaust: 1-3-5
-----------------------------------
Bottom Dead Center
Intake: 3-5-6
Exhaust: 2-4-6
Thanks for the reply. On badly worn stuff if valves are far out it could for sure affect economy. Nothing crazy but yes. As far as EGTs go say you have a performance motor running high EGTs large injectors, lots of boost etc. By making your valves open and close wider by setting to the narrow end of specs would improve your volumetric efficiency of the motor and therefore it would breath easier. This would be less restrictive and could lower temps because more efficient. Overall effects are very minimal.
Thanks Schneids15. However, we're talking about a NORMAL engine. By the way.. a MOTOR is electrical. We're talking about an ENGINE. Note also both my book and the Cummins dealer (not the Dodge Stealer) state that a normal 5.9L Cummins 24v engine will usually have to be adjusted and checked out at 350,000 miles. There are some models of this engine which has over a million miles on them.
In closing... unless one has modified his engine and other components to handle the bigger output (turbo, tranny and more)... there's no sense in getting too excited about valve lash adjustment vs. EGT. And, the SMALL amount of volumetric efficiency" gained is nothing to write home about. :-) Please remember that Dodge and Cummins spend MILLIONS in DESIGN, ENGINEERING and TESTING these engines prior to putting them in trucks for sale. They KNOW their engines and RECOMMEND the spec's.
That is correct. However i had the time to check this and it is not a hard job. Cummins spends millions on design but it does not mean the guy on the factory floor put everything to perfect spec. Have heard of trucks with not very many miles being out of spec. That is why i tackled this.
I've got over 200k on my '99 and I've checked my lash twice over the years. Still within spec's. My son has checked his at 248k and within spec's. I talked to the Cummins shop here in San Diego and they said it is "very rare" for them to have to adjust valve lash. In fact, they say my engine doesn't need an overhaul till about 350,000 miles. If you like, you can prove this by calling them at:
Cummins Sales & Service
310 N. Johnson Ave
El Cajon, CA 92020
Tel | 800-993-4373
So you may have "heard of trucks with not very many miles being out of spec," but I've found that "they say" and "heard" is usually incorrect. Unfortunately, this is NOT a job for the average backyard mechanic. I can do it as I'm a mechanic (I even hold Jet Engine licenses) and you can do it and your video is okay... but it is NOT "simple" as you state for Joe Average. To reiterate: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
@@kolinken9524 As a somewhat of a newbie to the diesel world this a solid "how to" video & I do appreciate your message as well "Don't fix what isn't broke" with all of the mis-information out here on these 5.9's this video is right on IMHO. Thx for sharing.
Careful laying tools on a battery. Not a good practice. Those pliers have rubber/plastic sleeves, so likely be ok. However it is not a good idea. In the middle of a job, laying over a fender, frustrated about something, it is easy to lay a wrench on there. Then watch the fire works.
I’m do, thanks, never did a 24V!
What is the torch speck for the valve nuts? Oris there one?
Hey honestly I can’t remember.
how did it sound after that? and also what did directions did you go when you turned the motor over
John Doe sounded the same but they weren't far out. Rotate counter clockwise.
Trans in neutral to rotate by alternator counter clock ways. Baring tool so hard up down up down cant see tdc from under the truck. 😢
Whats the link for the angled feeler gauge from lang? If i could get it that would be great
Hey matt, sorry i don’t have a link. I believe they were from amazon though.
Lang Tools 26-blade Offset Feeler Gauge Set 3275a www.amazon.com/dp/B013HLGFM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zHUsFb8T1MKWJ
You guys on UA-cam crack me up. You never ever show the hard stuff, such as the last cover bolt removal, and how hard it is to get it out. You cut out all the hard shit and make it look so easy, when in fact it is quite the undertaking. Someone should make a video showing the whole process not just the easy stuff. your video is lame!!
Thanks for the comment. I indeed do film the whole thing. Trust me if it is not you i get another guy commenting saying my video is too long and lame. That is why i shorten it. That back bolt is no problem. Loosen it and leave it in the cover. Pull the cover with the bolt and you will have 0 issues. Josh
Don’t take any of the bolts all the way out!
Break them loose with a wrench till you can turn them with your fingers then as soon as you feel they are unthreaded, Stop!
Take the spring clamp off the heater hose connection closest to the Valve cover and move it out of your way. Pull the Valve cover off favoring the passenger side.
For accuracy’s sake, when going from the first adjustment at TDC to the second adjustment at BDC I think you meant that it gets rotated 180* not 360?
That's what I think he meant, he said 360, I think he meant 180 cause his line I'd facing down at that point.