Can you make a video of how you did the filament changing/set up of the last light fixture. I’ve seen you video of how to do it on a top layer but really like the look when it’s printed on the plate itself.
Thanks for the video, I'm trying these settings now. I remember seeing that CNC Kitchen video when it came out and rewatched it. One thing, can you point out where in the video, Stefan says to go to 270* C for the hotend? I only see mention of 230* C, like at 12 minutes and 25 seconds, he shows 2 different screens of settings and both show 230, not 270.
He doesn’t mention to go to 270 that was just me experimenting and going off of the original write up www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass for better results I would follow CNC kitchens recommendations.
@@3DPrintStuff as info, this works on the flip side too. For my gridfinity bins, I wanted matte grey, not glossy grey. Plus, since I'm going to be producing 50-60 KG's of bases and bins for my shop, I wanted to go with a PETG filament that didn't break the bank, yet still printed good and such. I've been buying Elegoo's Rapid PETG at around $10 to $12.50 or so per KG. Then I worked through the settings that seem to let it print best (and also be somewhat matte finished). 240 nozzle, 80 bed (all layers) 10 mm^3/s volumetric 20% cooling, 50% for overhangs & bridges 1.5mm retraction at 40 mm/s Initial layer 50 mm/s (infill and wall) Bridge at 50 mm/s To get this to a more glossy finish, use all of the above plus bump up nozzle temp to 255-260. Pretty cool how that works. (above settings are verified on Prusa XL 5TH, Prusa MK4, and Bambu Labs A1 Mini)
@@3DPrintStuff I know, but how to do put the screws in the lamp? I see no way to open it up to put the screws in. I see the holes but that would go thru the lamp so clearly it goes from the inside. Any ideas?
Thanks for going into detail of your process and changes with the Clear PETG!
I can’t wait to see whatever that mouse thing is!
It's actually a very cool model and the support structure is very impressive. The designer definitely deserves some praise.
Can you make a video of how you did the filament changing/set up of the last light fixture. I’ve seen you video of how to do it on a top layer but really like the look when it’s printed on the plate itself.
Thanks for the video, I'm trying these settings now. I remember seeing that CNC Kitchen video when it came out and rewatched it. One thing, can you point out where in the video, Stefan says to go to 270* C for the hotend? I only see mention of 230* C, like at 12 minutes and 25 seconds, he shows 2 different screens of settings and both show 230, not 270.
He doesn’t mention to go to 270 that was just me experimenting and going off of the original write up www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass for better results I would follow CNC kitchens recommendations.
@@3DPrintStuff as info, this works on the flip side too. For my gridfinity bins, I wanted matte grey, not glossy grey. Plus, since I'm going to be producing 50-60 KG's of bases and bins for my shop, I wanted to go with a PETG filament that didn't break the bank, yet still printed good and such. I've been buying Elegoo's Rapid PETG at around $10 to $12.50 or so per KG. Then I worked through the settings that seem to let it print best (and also be somewhat matte finished).
240 nozzle, 80 bed (all layers)
10 mm^3/s volumetric
20% cooling, 50% for overhangs & bridges
1.5mm retraction at 40 mm/s
Initial layer 50 mm/s (infill and wall)
Bridge at 50 mm/s
To get this to a more glossy finish, use all of the above plus bump up nozzle temp to 255-260. Pretty cool how that works.
(above settings are verified on Prusa XL 5TH, Prusa MK4, and Bambu Labs A1 Mini)
Just printed type B in white PLA and I think I prefer the look of the white over the clear, produces a smoother more diffuse light.
I have seen some pictures of these printed in white and they do look really nice.
I printed mine in a pla bone colour and its a great colour for these lamps
you're missing the clock kit.
What are the screws for? I got the lamp and see no way to open it up to put the screws in the other way..
They’re for mounting the light to a wall or underneath a desk or cabinet. You don’t use them for these models.
@@3DPrintStuff I know, but how to do put the screws in the lamp? I see no way to open it up to put the screws in. I see the holes but that would go thru the lamp so clearly it goes from the inside. Any ideas?
@@3DPrintStuff ??
Where you got the stl for that? i bought a p1s and got the lamp too but cant find the stl for the top stuff
Links in the description
Can i get the gcode of this lamp
makerworld.com/en/models/13717#profileId-13429