I like this series on commonly used tools. There are so many things that are easy to take for granted when you get new tools. It's nice to be able to check them to make sure everything is correct. Especially when you buy used tools.
Hi Brash air, Thank you very much for your video. I looked at the procedure for orthogonal check and I believe that there may be something wrong at 10:28. If you align B and C (after rotating 90deg) you will be forcibly aligning at A also (the projection of a plane is a straight line) In that case the misalignment error will be evident at D. (different vertical plane but same result) To measure the misalignment error at point A you have to align the cross lines at B and the mark on the wall at D, forget about aligning C (C will be affected by the same error evident at A). Please let me know if you see any wrong in my thinking and again, thank you very much for sharing, your video gave me a fantastic start. Cheers.
Thank you, very informative video. I had a random question, would there be an issue if I mounted this to a drill press to ensure the drill bit drills at the cross mark? Or would the vibration from the machine cause problems? Since the machine also travels up and down, would this be adjustable in the z axis? Or best to get two straight line modules, as the adjustability will allow correction for all these problems?
Hello Lucas. That spec is from Huepar’s own UA-cam video on calibrating their laser levels. I took a screen shot of it to use in my video. Here is the link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/LZntDgbjQnY/v-deo.html. Actually, the reason I made my video is that I felt Huepar’s “official” video was too difficult to follow and the English translation atrocious. I hope my video clarifies the information for you and others.
+/- 3mm means up to 6mm distance between lower and upper mark after rotation when distance between laser and wall is 5m, what you are saing is correct, but your picture @4:45 is incorrect, should be 3mm (plus or minus 1.5mm gives you 3mm distance).
Thank you for watching the video, and yes, you are correct. At 10 meters the maximum deviation from True Level is plus OR minus 3mm, but never more than 3mm from True Level. Therefore, worst case would be one side at +3mm and other side at -3mm for combined out-of-tolerance of 6mm at 10 meters. However, I personally would be hesitant to use a laser level that far out of calibration for any interior work projects spanning large distances.
I believe there is no such thing as flat surface. Tripod is not perfect, floor is not perfect and most importantly the rubber casing of the laser is very not perfect - thus all 90° horizontal movements will result in slight difference in level. The true level might be acquired here 3:57 - it's right in between those red lines but only if we previously manually adjust the height of the laser using the nearby wall, after every single movement of the laser. Hope I understood that right.
You are absolutely right! The critical thing to remember is to maintain the same height when rotating the laser level. This is also why you want to make a mark on the wall perpendicular to the lines you are checking to ensure the laser level is not tilting when it is rotated.
It actually doesn't matter if the laser is physically level. All we really care about is the height of the laser head, which is why he draws a reference line on the side wall. (If you allow the height to change it can still be done, but it's a lot more work and gets confusing.) Now, I usually don't bother with the reference line because I know my countertop is stable; and the laser's rubber casing/feet shouldn't make any difference either. *If using a good tripod and the mount is directly below the laser head, the head height shouldn't change; but a reference line is still a good idea just to be sure. If using a flat surface, you could do a lot of math if you wanted to get really precise. But if your surface is fairly level, you'll be ok. As an example, I added a 3.07 degree slope to my Huepar by adding 4.7mm to two of the feet (about 11/16" rise per foot). At 33', adding the slope to front two feet raised the top line 1.4mm and the bottom line by .7mm; added to back feet raised the top line about 3mm and the bottom about 1.5mm (they're all different because the laser head and feet are offset from each other). But it'd be the same no matter where you measured because that is how much the the laser heads had actually been raised. But again, as Brash Air said, just make sure the head stays at the same height. It's pretty easy to tell if a countertop is level, it's not so easy to tell if anything else is.
i opened my huepar 3x360 laser and the adjustment screws at the end that you showed only seemed to adjust the horizontal. i made one mark on the wall 5m away and adjusted the front laser until the front and back window both were dead on the mark then i proceeded to do the same to the side laser until all windows were on the mark. The only way i found to adjust the vertical was to work out which way the laser was out and fractionaly back out the screws attaching the laser diode until it was level with another laser that was level to a spirit level, so all three were giving the same reading. The vertical of the laser i was adjusting needed to go to the right so i fractionaly and evenly backed out the top screws, thats got to be how huepar would repair it as i spent hours on it and the two ways i used was the only possible way i could do it. Have used it since to do some MF ceilings at 2400mm, i set the laser up in a room at around 5x5m measuring up from the floor 2400mm, i then measured each corner of the room and they were within 1-2mm accuracy except one which was about 5mm difference which im putting down to the screeded floor.
Hello mo ni and thanks for watching. You should be able to tell true level by measuring exactly half the distance between opposite marks made while checking X-axis at 180 degrees to each other.
I like this series on commonly used tools. There are so many things that are easy to take for granted when you get new tools. It's nice to be able to check them to make sure everything is correct. Especially when you buy used tools.
This is by far one one of the best videos I have seen. Another great video is his video on how to make the adjustments. Thanks.
oh, this is intuitive to me to measure the most measurement tools in your workshop without needing more accuracy tools. Thanks a log.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Brash air, Thank you very much for your video.
I looked at the procedure for orthogonal check and I believe that there may be something wrong at 10:28.
If you align B and C (after rotating 90deg) you will be forcibly aligning at A also (the projection of a plane is a straight line)
In that case the misalignment error will be evident at D. (different vertical plane but same result)
To measure the misalignment error at point A you have to align the cross lines at B and the mark on the wall at D, forget about aligning C (C will be affected by the same error evident at A).
Please let me know if you see any wrong in my thinking and again, thank you very much for sharing, your video gave me a fantastic start.
Cheers.
Thank you, very informative video. I had a random question, would there be an issue if I mounted this to a drill press to ensure the drill bit drills at the cross mark? Or would the vibration from the machine cause problems?
Since the machine also travels up and down, would this be adjustable in the z axis? Or best to get two straight line modules, as the adjustability will allow correction for all these problems?
calibration = take it to service, you're welcome!
Where did you get the spec at 8m22s please?
Hello Lucas. That spec is from Huepar’s own UA-cam video on calibrating their laser levels. I took a screen shot of it to use in my video. Here is the link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/LZntDgbjQnY/v-deo.html.
Actually, the reason I made my video is that I felt Huepar’s “official” video was too difficult to follow and the English translation atrocious. I hope my video clarifies the information for you and others.
+/- 3mm means up to 6mm distance between lower and upper mark after rotation when distance between laser and wall is 5m, what you are saing is correct, but your picture @4:45 is incorrect, should be 3mm (plus or minus 1.5mm gives you 3mm distance).
Thank you for watching the video, and yes, you are correct. At 10 meters the maximum deviation from True Level is plus OR minus 3mm, but never more than 3mm from True Level. Therefore, worst case would be one side at +3mm and other side at -3mm for combined out-of-tolerance of 6mm at 10 meters. However, I personally would be hesitant to use a laser level that far out of calibration for any interior work projects spanning large distances.
how do you know how close to true level? that's what most people really want to know. if it's within 3mm of wrong it's still wrong.
I believe there is no such thing as flat surface. Tripod is not perfect, floor is not perfect and most importantly the rubber casing of the laser is very not perfect - thus all 90° horizontal movements will result in slight difference in level. The true level might be acquired here 3:57 - it's right in between those red lines but only if we previously manually adjust the height of the laser using the nearby wall, after every single movement of the laser. Hope I understood that right.
You are absolutely right! The critical thing to remember is to maintain the same height when rotating the laser level. This is also why you want to make a mark on the wall perpendicular to the lines you are checking to ensure the laser level is not tilting when it is rotated.
It actually doesn't matter if the laser is physically level. All we really care about is the height of the laser head, which is why he draws a reference line on the side wall. (If you allow the height to change it can still be done, but it's a lot more work and gets confusing.) Now, I usually don't bother with the reference line because I know my countertop is stable; and the laser's rubber casing/feet shouldn't make any difference either.
*If using a good tripod and the mount is directly below the laser head, the head height shouldn't change; but a reference line is still a good idea just to be sure. If using a flat surface, you could do a lot of math if you wanted to get really precise. But if your surface is fairly level, you'll be ok. As an example, I added a 3.07 degree slope to my Huepar by adding 4.7mm to two of the feet (about 11/16" rise per foot). At 33', adding the slope to front two feet raised the top line 1.4mm and the bottom line by .7mm; added to back feet raised the top line about 3mm and the bottom about 1.5mm (they're all different because the laser head and feet are offset from each other). But it'd be the same no matter where you measured because that is how much the the laser heads had actually been raised. But again, as Brash Air said, just make sure the head stays at the same height. It's pretty easy to tell if a countertop is level, it's not so easy to tell if anything else is.
i opened my huepar 3x360 laser and the adjustment screws at the end that you showed only seemed to adjust the horizontal. i made one mark on the wall 5m away and adjusted the front laser until the front and back window both were dead on the mark then i proceeded to do the same to the side laser until all windows were on the mark.
The only way i found to adjust the vertical was to work out which way the laser was out and fractionaly back out the screws attaching the laser diode until it was level with another laser that was level to a spirit level, so all three were giving the same reading.
The vertical of the laser i was adjusting needed to go to the right so i fractionaly and evenly backed out the top screws, thats got to be how huepar would repair it as i spent hours on it and the two ways i used was the only possible way i could do it.
Have used it since to do some MF ceilings at 2400mm, i set the laser up in a room at around 5x5m measuring up from the floor 2400mm, i then measured each corner of the room and they were within 1-2mm accuracy except one which was about 5mm difference which im putting down to the screeded floor.
12:19 how should I know where exactly is my true level :D it is impossible
Hello mo ni and thanks for watching. You should be able to tell true level by measuring exactly half the distance between opposite marks made while checking X-axis at 180 degrees to each other.
Is there videos on people actually opening them up adjusting them not drawings