This is a great learning video. He makes it look very easy. In an inframe, it's doable but a lot of stuff are in the way. As well as barring the engine over. Thank You
The printed gasket goes against the cam follower !! It helps seal the cam follower !! They move when the engine is running and it will leak sooner if it NOT against the cam follower !!
Brian, After watching this, I think I messed up my timing. Here's the issue. I had to replace the accessory drive on an NTC 350 Big Cam Cummins. I turned the crank a little to line up the timing marks on the accessory drive with the camshaft. I also think I knocked the timing marks out of alignment when removing the pulleys, Now the cam and the crank are not lined up but the accessory drive is. Should I just rotate the crank until they line up? Thanks. Really appreciate any help.
your description is a bit vague, if you were just replacing the accessory drive it would be impossible to mess up your engine timing, however the accessory could be mistimed, remove the plug in the front cover behind the accessory drive pulley and rotate till you see the two marks, then install the accessory drive and check for the timing mark on it to be in the middle of the two marks. is essence a mistimed accessory drive only comes into play when setting the valves (overhead), to mistime your engine you would have to remove the valve train (pushtubes, front cover, vibration damper, cam followers, and pull the cam forward, the marks are for base timing, the procedure he is showing here is for final timing the injectors for tdc.
Because, sometimes the cam followers are not machined to the exact same thickness! Thus, different thickness gaskets so that all cylinders end up timed exactly the same. 😀👍
Where do you get the .352"? Mine has an IE injector code which is saying .084 fast and .086 slow. .085 nominal. So does that mean my engine only needs .085" push rod travel?
Good video but one thing note on your board that n14 is the worst engine from Cummins, oil pressure problem and oil going black so much carbon in the oil running only few hours only and crank chowk up only 2 to 3000 hours, so i m tired from this n14.
About the only thing I've experienced in your comment is my oil goes black right away. In two years and ten thousand miles Valvoline premium blue oil change I have less than 1% fuel dilution and no contaminants. I use a Fleetguard oil filter. I have 30 lb of oil pressure above idle which is what the factory manuals is the standard. I have 10 lb of oil pressure at idle. The last two pressures are much higher in cold weather from a cold start. My N14 has over 1 million and 43,500 hours and it shows no sign of needing a rebuild. Frankly, it doesn't even show the that it needs a valve overhead adjustment but I want to get one on it.
I’m glad you’re tired of it, will you sell it to me? Can assure you I’m not tired of mine, especially from any of your arguments. Cummins have a HVLP oil system, if you maintain them properly, there are no issues.
This is a great learning video. He makes it look very easy. In an inframe, it's doable but a lot of stuff are in the way. As well as barring the engine over. Thank You
Good video first time I got to do this was in Mexico working on N14s big cams series 60 and older c15s
Great to find you on youtube!!
No sir! Still have to use proper gasket or youll have bent injector push tubes.
thank you sir this is gr8 video
Well done
Great job....
Awesome!
Well done ....
The printed gasket goes against the cam follower !! It helps seal the cam follower !! They move when the engine is running and it will leak sooner if it NOT against the cam follower !!
According to the Cummins manual, it goes against the block with the sealing bead toward the cam follower housing.
nice. is there a manual fir it?
Brian,
After watching this, I think I messed up my timing. Here's the issue. I had to replace the accessory drive on an NTC 350 Big Cam Cummins. I turned the crank a little to line up the timing marks on the accessory drive with the camshaft. I also think I knocked the timing marks out of alignment when removing the pulleys, Now the cam and the crank are not lined up but the accessory drive is. Should I just rotate the crank until they line up? Thanks. Really appreciate any help.
your description is a bit vague, if you were just replacing the accessory drive it would be impossible to mess up your engine timing, however the accessory could be mistimed, remove the plug in the front cover behind the accessory drive pulley and rotate till you see the two marks, then install the accessory drive and check for the timing mark on it to be in the middle of the two marks. is essence a mistimed accessory drive only comes into play when setting the valves (overhead), to mistime your engine you would have to remove the valve train (pushtubes, front cover, vibration damper, cam followers, and pull the cam forward, the marks are for base timing, the procedure he is showing here is for final timing the injectors for tdc.
Boa tarde. Teria você colocar no vídeo, legenda em português?
if this is a ecm n14 slap a .32 on it and good to go, the ecm controls injector timing
That’s bush mechanic stuff! Time it once correctly and don’t have to mess with it again.😂
Why would cylinders 1 and 2 differ and the gasket thickness thus their timing then cylinders three and four or five and six and so on?
Because, sometimes the cam followers are not machined to the exact same thickness! Thus, different thickness gaskets so that all cylinders end up timed exactly the same. 😀👍
what's a good timing setting if you're running at 625hp n14?
Three years until it blows up! 😜
Just curious... If the specs call for .362, what advantage is it to advance to .352?
Fast timing it. If you slow time it can be doggie on acceleration and if bad enough, oil filter plugging if to far Retarded
Do you always time N14s on fast timing, and why? Thank you
If you slow time them the engine may be slower to accelerate and if it’s really slow timed then oil filters could prematurely plug with soot
Where do you get the .352"? Mine has an IE injector code which is saying .084 fast and .086 slow. .085 nominal. So does that mean my engine only needs .085" push rod travel?
You don't have a N14
No, it’s the amount of injector travel left.
Is it doable while the engine is still on the truck ?
Yes
Why did you go to 352 instead of 362 on timing what is the advantage of this explains the change
Because your advance the timing for better performance and fuel mileage 👍
My question as well, is there a guide or spec sheet for this stuff?
@@jamesgingin590
But is not the advance timing harder on the Pistons and connecting rods and crankshaft?
@@viktortulbya2107 Yes
@@michaeldunagan8268 No
Good video but one thing note on your board that n14 is the worst engine from Cummins, oil pressure problem and oil going black so much carbon in the oil running only few hours only and crank chowk up only 2 to 3000 hours, so i m tired from this n14.
About the only thing I've experienced in your comment is my oil goes black right away.
In two years and ten thousand miles Valvoline premium blue oil change I have less than 1% fuel dilution and no contaminants. I use a Fleetguard oil filter. I have 30 lb of oil pressure above idle which is what the factory manuals is the standard. I have 10 lb of oil pressure at idle. The last two pressures are much higher in cold weather from a cold start.
My N14 has over 1 million and 43,500 hours and it shows no sign of needing a rebuild. Frankly, it doesn't even show the that it needs a valve overhead adjustment but I want to get one on it.
I’m glad you’re tired of it, will you sell it to me? Can assure you I’m not tired of mine, especially from any of your arguments. Cummins have a HVLP oil system, if you maintain them properly, there are no issues.
You have the timing Retarded. Those are the results. Check timing with the dial indicators
without knowing what you are trying to achieve and how one correlates to the other this is all meaning less. What is the objective?