Thanks for the helpful videos, specifically with the Sonic Mighty 4K which I have on order at the moment. These will come in handy to rewatch when I have the printer in front of me. I also ordered the aluminum Vat separately to replace the stock plastic one.
Glad I could help. And thanks for watching. Funny thing about the aluminum vat, the stock plastic one has been working so well I haven't had a need to use it yet. I'll definitely post a video once I do. Also, last night I printed 45 miniatures on one build plate and they all turned out great. I just posted a video of it. The Mighty 4K is so great. You could army build minis in an afternoon with it. :-)
Actually, I just started a 3D printing meetup group here in Southern California. Our first meeting is this coming week. I'll be posting new videos on here shortly. Thank you.
You have some good information here, but I believe you've oversimplified things by saying that this method works for all resin 3D printers. I have the Mighty 4K and it's a joy. But I also have an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and leveling is a little bit more of a chore. If I did what you describe -- which works for the Mighty -- I would have problems with my Mars 2 Pro.
I have a Mars 2. Leveling is pretty much the same except it has a ball joint instead of the 4 side screws. The main takeaway is you want to have the paper equally tight on all four corners of the build plate.
Old vid, hopefully someone sees this. I've got a halot mage, and no matter what I do (bolting pattern, tightness) one side always is lifted up. The plate is perfectly flat (I checked at my machine shop) idk what to do
If you have a leak or spill resin on it you're still going to want a screen protector - unless you want to peel the factory tape off and take the screen apart. But, to each their own. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the helpful videos, specifically with the Sonic Mighty 4K which I have on order at the moment. These will come in handy to rewatch when I have the printer in front of me. I also ordered the aluminum Vat separately to replace the stock plastic one.
Glad I could help. And thanks for watching.
Funny thing about the aluminum vat, the stock plastic one has been working so well I haven't had a need to use it yet. I'll definitely post a video once I do.
Also, last night I printed 45 miniatures on one build plate and they all turned out great. I just posted a video of it. The Mighty 4K is so great. You could army build minis in an afternoon with it. :-)
We missed you. Its been a while since you posted a video. I hope you are doing great. Nik from Canada
Actually, I just started a 3D printing meetup group here in Southern California. Our first meeting is this coming week. I'll be posting new videos on here shortly. Thank you.
You have some good information here, but I believe you've oversimplified things by saying that this method works for all resin 3D printers. I have the Mighty 4K and it's a joy. But I also have an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and leveling is a little bit more of a chore. If I did what you describe -- which works for the Mighty -- I would have problems with my Mars 2 Pro.
I have a Mars 2. Leveling is pretty much the same except it has a ball joint instead of the 4 side screws. The main takeaway is you want to have the paper equally tight on all four corners of the build plate.
do you level with screen protector on or off please,?
Old vid, hopefully someone sees this. I've got a halot mage, and no matter what I do (bolting pattern, tightness) one side always is lifted up. The plate is perfectly flat (I checked at my machine shop) idk what to do
I thought the Mighty 4K already comes with a glass screen protector... Seen many different reviewers report it does.
If you have a leak or spill resin on it you're still going to want a screen protector - unless you want to peel the factory tape off and take the screen apart. But, to each their own. 🤷♂️
@@3DPrintingMinis Ah ok. Didn't know it wasn't sealed around the Factor screen protector.