My pump went out, but I had to drive it to work the next day. That peddle was hard to stop. Two footen it to stop. Watched this video on lunch and did it and wasn’t expecting it fix it so quickly. I about went out the windshield 😂 thanks for this video
I watch this video and then decided to do it to my truck because I was on my third vacuum pump and it’s insane. How good it works. I never have to worry about breaks anymore. Thanks man.
Did you have the original faulty vacuum pump design? Or did you wreck after a vacuum pump replacement? Debating between this delete mod, or having a dealership install the new vacuum pump design.
This fixed my low speed abs activation issue on my 2015 GMC Sierra… Brake booster wasn’t getting enough vacuum after brake use while backing down driveway. Thanks
This is genius. I was planning on replacing my vacuum pump since I know that’s why I’m getting a stiff break pedal at parking lot speed. Just so happens I’m getting a Diablo i3 tuner soon and can delete afm. Also have a slight ticking sound and assumed it’s the bad vacuum pump.
This is great. Thank you! Could you just leave the pump on and take off the belt after doing the hose modifications? I don’t think it would hurt anything just being static but not sure.
Great video. Takes me through every step for the delete process and just saved me money on installing a catch can to my intake. I was trying to reduce oil spray coming from the valley cover PCV from being sucked into my intake.
You are an idiot if you think that gm engineers are competent. Engineers are the smartest dumbest people I know unless they have field experience that's why gm engineers did away with the pump in 19 or wait afm was super BA idea. Go troll someone that deserves it.
Have you gotten any new oil leaks since doing this? Dont see why we can't simply tee into the pcv to manifold line to feed the booster vaccuum & leave the factory crankcase pressure system in place? Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Oil catch cans only work when they're cold (literally minutes). Once the engine bay gets hot, the dirty vapors just go through. There's no use on using one on street vehicles, and a waste of money
@@BadAssEngineering Fair enough but I’m also adding Stage 3 cam, LT headers & exhaust/ intake. For my original question, will the vacuum for oil catch can & brake booster together work?
@@The_Fat_Pipefitter i wouldn't do that just to avoid any chance of getting dirty vapors into the brake booster. Why do you want a catch can ? Most crankcase pressure goes out the head covers into the throttle body anyway...
Hi, I did this just like you did and now oil is being sent from the valve cover vent tubes into the box that connects to the throttle body and air filer housing, and its also taking longer to start sometimes. Is this due to back pressure from capping off the pcv valve? I think I might have to go back to the original setup. Any advice is appreciated.
Do I need to add a PCV Crankcase Evacuation System once I delete the PCV line? This topic is of great interest for LT swappers because we are putting a type 2 Saginaw pump for power steering in place of the vacuum pump..
Paul No you don't. If you delete the manifold PCV line, pcv vapors will enter the engine via the valve cover breathers. Most PCV vapors get vented that way anyway!
Hello, speaking on your Serpentine Belt assembly. The 2018 4.3’s are the exact same but have 2 extra pulleys, one in the center ( where the previous gen waterpump was ) and an idler pulley under the alternator and the tensioner is in a different location below the alternator to the right. In fact this engine has all the mounting holes to put it that way. I can literally take off the center pulley, remove the idler pulleys that’s under the alternator and relocate my tensioner to the engine you have location. Question is why would they add two extra pulleys on the 4.3? They’re the exact same engine minus 2 Cylinders. Look up the 2018 4.3’s on Google images, you’ll see what I’m referring to as far as 2 extra pulleys. It’s puzzling, they made it more complicated than it had to be. What would you do? Make the assembly the way it is like on yours? The idler pulley on mind is bad.
Awesome video! Just picked up an 2014 got to the gas station and my brakes went stiff and would barely stop the truck. Did a quick search and found your video. Gonna give this a shot, also is the Diablo tuner pretty straight forward with disabling the AFM?
Try to do this today not sure how he got that clear shot of pump from the side don't have access like that maybe he doesn't have 4 wheel drive seems like it's gonna be a job to get mine off
I read your write up on the forum, watched this video. Brother you gave so much info but what is this part about running the stuff from valve cover to exhaust or? This needs to be shown and explained or else the whole recipe you gave us is Irrelevant….I got the delete kit and the hose and caps but I’m not sure exactly what I’m supposed to be doing when it comes to that part
@@justinstatham6378 then don't run them into the manifold ? there's is a mechanical problem with your engine or you're using crappy oil if it blows so much
Una vez que desconecte la manguera PCV y ocupe el conector para la manguera que irá a la membrana del freno, que hago con la manguera PCV..??? Queda libre..??? sin volver a conectarla a ningún lugar..???
Whoa, whoa....you start out talking about you can't do this if got some active fuel management , what takes it from V8 to V4, that you have to disable it and you show some DiabloSport InTune box??? How does that work? Where's that info? So, now it has to always be in V8? Please explain this more.
These engines have collapsible lifters in 4 of the cylinders, the ECU activates them so the valves on those 4 cylinders remain closed while shutting spark and fuel, so the engine only runs on the other 4 cylinders. While working on V4 mode, the engine doesn't produce enough vacuum to run the brake booster. Using an ECU tune to disable the AFM is desirable, because these engine collapsible lifters are known to fail anywhere from brand new to hundreds of thousands of miles.
Got mine going out on my 2017 silverado at 50,000 miles. Ridiculous. Honestly is there a reason other than the afm system that a vacumn pump is needed ? Recently did same type delete on our 2009 vw beetle. Works great. Im 47 Every older car ive had used the manifold. Not sure when these pumps became common
I don’t have doubts about this configuration because that’s how it was done in earlier models but I’ll have to get a tuner to make adjustments when I wish there was a physical if I’m not able to obtain a diablosport
@@BadAssEngineering the physical delete of AFM requires new lifters and a new cam. It's a significant remove and replace process, and significantly more costly than re-programming to delete the AFM/DOD function or purchasing the Range module (~$200) to disable AFM/DOD
@jr.zz7162 I'm gonna try it and if I have a shitty brake pedal feel I guess il just remove the catch can, block off the crankcase vent by the throttle body should vent fine from valve covers 🤷♂️
I just did this to my 2014 4.3l and still have a service brake assist message so I went to get it diagnosed. The pedal no longer gets hard but the abs is acting funny. I replaced both wheel bearings and both rear sensors. The shop said it’s getting an incorrect reading of vacuum. I’m thinking it’s either the sensor on the booster or the ebcm. The shop said I’d have to put it back to stock for them to dig deeper into the problem. Just wondering if you had any issues along these lines. Yes I do have a Diablo tuner disabling the afm.
I have an oil catch can installed on my truck. Do I need to remove the catch can to do this delete, or is there another way to get the vacuum for the brake booster?
@@BadAssEngineering care to elaborate? Pcv vents crankcase pressure doesn’t it? If crankcase pressures get too high you’re blowing oil into your cylinders. I can’t say wether or not you can plug up the Pcv or not I’m not sure but to say catch cans don’t prevent buildup is nonsense. These engines are direct injected meaning no fuel is cleaning the back of the valves. And the Pcv hose you rerouted in this video directs all that oil to the intake.
I have never used an AFM disabler, but for what it costs, getting a tune for a little extra gave me much more advantages. Also; do the Throttle pedal stick mod for more response
Hey bud, great video you shared here! I watched it several times, along with others but still have a question when it comes to a supercharged L86. I want to get rid of the pump and I am willing to add an electric pump but would much rather attain vacuum from the motor. Any thoughts?? Thanks
You could also add a good check valve so boost from the manifold doesn't go into the booster, or do the electric pump but I don't have any experience with those tho
How did you delete the stock pcv fitting on top that goes along the intake manifold? I’m not understanding how you deleted that if it’s not being used anymore.
You don't delete the fitting from the manifold, you use it to connect the manifold to the booster. The line that originally goes from the manifold to the pcv under the throttle body is deleted
@@BadAssEngineering hmmm. Ok. I’ll look closer tomorrow but mine is a 2017 with a 6.2. The line from the throttle body runs on top the intake with no connection or fitting to latch onto. It runs as a hose/line straight all the way back and down the firewall. The one you showed had a pcv fitting to connect to, where I don’t think I have that. Which could almost be easier if I just ran that line from intake to the brake booster fitting, but I’m not sure that’ll work. Unless I’m missing fittings somewhere but I have no connection to go to, unless it’s in the back of the engine down along the firewall.
@@jaybilawchuk2225 careful, there is a line to the manifold that pulls the evap from the fuel tank, the other is the pcv. The pcv on 6.2s are in a different place than on 5.3s
@@BadAssEngineering ahh ok. That makes sense why I’m not finding the proper line to connect to. I’ll try look tomorrow to find where that would be on the 6.2. I’m not sure where it’ll be but you are probably right saying the line I was talking about goes to evap for the tank. That looks exactly where it is going. I’ll have to research for the 6.2’s.
Awesome video but i have a oil catch can that runs between the intake and my PCV, will i have to remove this catch can or is there a way to keep it and still do the delete?
@@BadAssEngineering awesome, if you dont mind me asking one more question, where is your valve covers vented to? I see you have a hose coming from them but where does it go? And do you just leave the PCV valve open once you disconnect the line?
@@brandinharrison935 my valve covers feed the pcv gasses to an Exhaust Evacuation System, also called "evac". It uses the exhaust flow vacuum to pull the pcv gasses from the engine
@@brandinharrison935 no, it is not. you can delete your pcv line and use it for the brake booster only, most gasses go out the valve covers into the intake air box anyway. The manifold pcv line only pulls a little bit of gas when there is vacuum on the manifold
Thanks for the video man but I had a question about the vent hose from the valve covers. I noticed you plugged the passenger side and you have your driver side to your exhaust. What if I have both connected to my intake tube on a aftermarket cold air intake?
Currently working on a 4.3 v6 and the pump has failed due to the wonderful design of using a plastic impeller pretty much but the 4.3 should produce enough vacuum for the delete? The 4.3 has ran on vacuum from the intake for 30+ years so I’m thinking it should work just as well or better then the pump. I actually replaced the pump and I know the pedal gets hard after pressing it 2-3 time and is harder at low speed/rpm braking but it just feels like something is wrong with the braking. It stops and works just like it did when brand new but obviously there was a design flaw when it was brand new
I have a 2015 Yukon and I’m planning on deleting this same thing but I have a catch can running from the dirty side to the clean side of the manifold any ideas to run a catch can and delete the vacuum pump?
Catch cans only work for drag racing applications. It only works for a few minutes at a time when the vessel is cold. There is no real use when using one on a street car; most of the pcv vapors go out the valve cover vents into the air box anyway
Michael toma No, diesel engines don't have throttle bodies, intake manifold is never under vacuum. Don't do it, this procedure is only for L83/L86 Gasoline engines
I have a 2016 with the 6.2 Intake manifold. If I perform this process will the engine create enough vacuum to operate the wastegate and bov and boost gauge as well as the brakes when I do the final installation on the turbo kit?
The White Whale you will have to do more modifications to the vacuum line, like having bypasses and check valves to not let boost go to the brake booster. It gets more complex when boosting.
BadAssEngineering yes, I already have the 3/8 check valve and a catch can. My pump ticks and I want to get rid of it lol. But my curiosity is that I’m feeding from the valley to the catch can and then from can to im. So if I reroute from the IM to the booster where would I feed the catch can back to? Or would I simply just have to add a tee at the I’m connection and have a check valve in both lines. No much info on these newer trucks and supporting mods. Like everyone we are learning as we go lol
The White Whale I would get rid of the Can or vent it to atmosphere. Also you could run a crankcase evacuation system like the one I'm running. Moroso PN 25900
BadAssEngineering interesting. You should put a vid out on that. I would be interested to see the benefit of the evac system and how it’s installed vs using the catch can system. I end up having a ton of blow by into my catch can. But you have done great with the video and help with a few of my curiosity’s
Josh I guess you could, but catch cans in the vacuum line don't do anything to prevent carbon buildup (most of the vapors go out the valve covers anyway)
@@BadAssEngineering no codes untill I did this but like I said not sure if this caused it or just something else thinking of putting a t connection there to see if codes return
Could the vacuum pump be the reason why my brakes are locking up ? I thought it was my calibers I change them & it does the same thing, after driving it for awhile my brakes won’t release back stay stuck like the brakes were on.
Awesome thank you our vacuum pump went out 500 miles from home on vacation and this will be easy Lowe’s /autozone fix especially since I have no tools on the road thanks 👍
I am going to cut the belt off leave the vacuum pump on and cap hose coming off of it as well Till I get Home and order the vacuum delete kit I appreciate ur videos
You did a great job with this video and also answering all the questions guys asked about this mod. I'm doing mine this weekend. I ordered a performance vacuum hose for race cars for the Vac line.
Maybe a dumb question, but the existing crank case hose runs down the middle of the motor in addition to the vacuum pump hose that it getting deleted. Im working on a 15 5.3 and I noticed your truck didn't have that hose pre installed. Any idea what it is?
@@BadAssEngineering Did you need to secure the vacuum cap with any kind of clamp? Don’t mean to ask so many questions but I want to do this on my truck and just want to be sure Awesome video too
why not just do everything except actually removing the pump just remove belt and switch the vacuum line to the intake like you did but don't worry about actually removing the vacuum pump or is there a good reason for actually removing the pump
So I did this to my 2018 6.2. Brakes work as they should. But I keep hearing a sucking noise at my master cylinder. Is there a way to remedy this? Maybe a vacuum reservoir? My truck is completely stock besides this mod and the tune to disable v4 mode
You may not be hearing your vacuum pump. Your engine has a built in mechanical fuel pump that increases fuel pressure for the direct injection. 2014 and some 2015 engines make significant noise from that pump.
@@daveo211 this is a long shot since I see this comment is a year old...but I just bought a 2015 GMC Sierra and it has a pretty noticeable whining sound compared to any other truck I have owned ,seems like it is coming from the vacuum pump but I cant tell for sure, it sounds like when a power steering pump is low on fluid but since this truck has electronic power steering that cant be. even my mechanic cant figure it out he suspects the vacuum pump but admittedly is not sure. if it is just a normal sound for this truck then maybe I will just live with it but it really is like nails on a chalkboard for me . I hear it especially when I first start engine as the rpm lowers down just a low growl/ whine. driving me crazy trying to figure out.I have heard other trucks same year do have this sound but it seems wrong to me. I have it recorded and willing to PAY someone to listen to it and give me their thoughts. I really cant stand it. coming from a toyota tundra that ran without any issues for over 400,000 miles this truck seems delicate and honestly cheap.paid $27,000 for a truck with 80k miles so I am hoping I am not looking at some serious issue here. my thoughts range from torque converter to water pump, fuel pump, vacuum pump. had entire transmission replaced because I was told that was the issue by another mechanic and that didnt fx it either...(luckily warranty covered that even though it ended up not being the issue) I just want it to stop sounding like shit.
@@BadAssEngineering I decided to just unplug that PCV connector you used, did not reuse the connector or cut it off. I temporary plug that end. Connected the new hose to that port and clamped it on, ran it back to the Brake Boost. I then plugged the old vacuum line and cut the belt off the old Vacuum pump, leaving it a dead stick. I gave that a try and my brakes work just fine, truck is running normal. I'll leave it this way for a while just in case there is a need to put it back to stock but so far, no issues. I just don't see a need to spend the time removing that vacuum pump to put two plugs back in if I already have the old vacuum line plugged and the belt removed. If someone thinks this is a bad idea, I'm whiling to make a change. After 50 miles and a lot of brake pedal time, its working great!
Don't run a catch can, they stop condensing the oil after q couple of minutes. Catch cans are meant to run for short periods of time like drag racing...
I can't find no leak might be the MAF. I cleaned it let see if code comes back. Chevrolet said they will replace the pump but I think I just gonna delete it. Is there like a delete kit somewhere?
Rafael De Lima the delete kit is a couple of plug bolts, all the info is there in the video. P0172 code means the engine is running rich, it should not related to the Brake Vacuum system on 2014+ GM Trucks
BadAssEngineering le quiero quitar la bomba de vacío a una sierra 2016 tienes imágenes de paso a paso es que tengo una duda en una manguera que veo que le pusiste en la tapa de punterías pero nomás veo que está abajo del boster
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
My pump went out, but I had to drive it to work the next day. That peddle was hard to stop. Two footen it to stop. Watched this video on lunch and did it and wasn’t expecting it fix it so quickly. I about went out the windshield 😂 thanks for this video
Check the crankcase for debris that could obstruct the oil pump pickup
I watch this video and then decided to do it to my truck because I was on my third vacuum pump and it’s insane. How good it works. I never have to worry about breaks anymore. Thanks man.
I had a wreck because of the vacuum pump locking up my brakes in the rain. this is very helpful
Did you have the original faulty vacuum pump design? Or did you wreck after a vacuum pump replacement? Debating between this delete mod, or having a dealership install the new vacuum pump design.
This fixed my low speed abs activation issue on my 2015 GMC Sierra… Brake booster wasn’t getting enough vacuum after brake use while backing down driveway. Thanks
This is genius. I was planning on replacing my vacuum pump since I know that’s why I’m getting a stiff break pedal at parking lot speed. Just so happens I’m getting a Diablo i3 tuner soon and can delete afm. Also have a slight ticking sound and assumed it’s the bad vacuum pump.
You broke which pedal???
That's what mine did too ticking gone now
This is great. Thank you!
Could you just leave the pump on and take off the belt after doing the hose modifications? I don’t think it would hurt anything just being static but not sure.
I have the same question, does it work to just leave the pump in place?
Great video. Takes me through every step for the delete process and just saved me money on installing a catch can to my intake. I was trying to reduce oil spray coming from the valley cover PCV from being sucked into my intake.
You can delete the manifold pcv and route the valve covers to the atmosphere, catch cans only work for drag racing or very short stints anyway
@@BadAssEngineering Thanks this was very helpful.
If I already have a airaid modular intake tube how would I delete the nozzles for the breathers? And what did you do to cap off the pcv?
This is great! I keep throwing the belt and have no brakes. I also used the Atomic Fab mounts. Love them. Minimal vibration and rock solid.
Are you talking about engine mounts? For the Gen Vs?
I see we have much better engineers on here than there is at the Chevrolet corporation.
Funny how many pumps have failed that GM has special coverage for 10 yr/150k to replace them. But yeah engineers, go figure.
And where the gunk that comes out of that pcv goes?
You are an idiot if you think that gm engineers are competent. Engineers are the smartest dumbest people I know unless they have field experience that's why gm engineers did away with the pump in 19 or wait afm was super BA idea. Go troll someone that deserves it.
You ain’t lying bro
Can you just drill a hole in the intake manifold and use a hose barb to run vacuum to the booster ?
Definitely a must on these trucks. My brakes are much better than they ever were with the pump.
Have you gotten any new oil leaks since doing this? Dont see why we can't simply tee into the pcv to manifold line to feed the booster vaccuum & leave the factory crankcase pressure system in place? Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Bravo.
Very clear, precise info.
I'm following this very soon.
What if I got a catch can that’s using both lines for the intake manifold? What do I use for the master cylinder?
Did you figure it out
drill a hole, put a fitting on there
So when hooking up the booster w 3/8 line to intake with fitting what do I do with pcv line I removed from there
What do you do with the kind you disconnect for the system to hook up the booster line ?
Thaaaanks.. I did it for my chevy selvarado 2017 💯✔️
If I install an oil catch can, can I just tee the brake booster into the clean side hose of the catch can? TIA
Oil catch cans only work when they're cold (literally minutes). Once the engine bay gets hot, the dirty vapors just go through. There's no use on using one on street vehicles, and a waste of money
@@BadAssEngineering Fair enough but I’m also adding Stage 3 cam, LT headers & exhaust/ intake. For my original question, will the vacuum for oil catch can & brake booster together work?
@@The_Fat_Pipefitter i wouldn't do that just to avoid any chance of getting dirty vapors into the brake booster. Why do you want a catch can ? Most crankcase pressure goes out the head covers into the throttle body anyway...
@@BadAssEngineering Direct Injection mostly. Would a vacuum manifold be ideal or just get a throttle body spacer with a fitting for the booster?
@@The_Fat_Pipefitter a throttle body spacer could indeed work well, you could test that
Hi, I did this just like you did and now oil is being sent from the valve cover vent tubes into the box that connects to the throttle body and air filer housing, and its also taking longer to start sometimes. Is this due to back pressure from capping off the pcv valve? I think I might have to go back to the original setup. Any advice is appreciated.
That is not related
hello i have ADD1 3.3 oil catch can using that manifold port. do i tap into this . thnx
Great video my friend!!! Thanks for share!!! Best regards from the Argentinian Patagonian!!!
Just did this watching your vid thanks bro!
Does the vacuum pump course rough idle when it’s cold start it sounds good once it get warm it sounds like it wants to turn off
Do you have a video on your pcv delete
great video. so no side effects of this , no cel?
Nope, nothing
Do I need to add a PCV Crankcase Evacuation System once I delete the PCV line? This topic is of great interest for LT swappers because we are putting a type 2 Saginaw pump for power steering in place of the vacuum pump..
Paul No you don't. If you delete the manifold PCV line, pcv vapors will enter the engine via the valve cover breathers. Most PCV vapors get vented that way anyway!
Hello, speaking on your Serpentine Belt assembly. The 2018 4.3’s are the exact same but have 2 extra pulleys, one in the center ( where the previous gen waterpump was ) and an idler pulley under the alternator and the tensioner is in a different location below the alternator to the right. In fact this engine has all the mounting holes to put it that way. I can literally take off the center pulley, remove the idler pulleys that’s under the alternator and relocate my tensioner to the engine you have location.
Question is why would they add two extra pulleys on the 4.3?
They’re the exact same engine minus 2 Cylinders. Look up the 2018 4.3’s on Google images, you’ll see what I’m referring to as far as 2 extra pulleys. It’s puzzling, they made it more complicated than it had to be.
What would you do? Make the assembly the way it is like on yours?
The idler pulley on mind is bad.
Great info. Where do you have your crankcase hoses running to? I noticed you don’t have them running to the intake like before.
They run to the exhaust via a Crankcase evacuation system
@@BadAssEngineering Do you have a video on how you set this up on your truck? I am very interested! Thanks
@@robertscimeca1768 not yet, but will make one soon
@@BadAssEngineering Did you ever make this video?
@@connorduncan2789 nah, the feds could get angry and stuff
Awesome video! Just picked up an 2014 got to the gas station and my brakes went stiff and would barely stop the truck. Did a quick search and found your video. Gonna give this a shot, also is the Diablo tuner pretty straight forward with disabling the AFM?
Update please 🙏
Capping the pcv just forces the crank case pressure out the valve cover breathers? So I should run a catch can did each valve cover?
Where are you routing the vent hose from the front valve cover on the driver side?
To the exhaust using an Evac
I have a range afm disabler on my 2016 sierra. Would that work instead of buying a tuner to be able to do the pimp delete?
Yup
Try to do this today not sure how he got that clear shot of pump from the side don't have access like that maybe he doesn't have 4 wheel drive seems like it's gonna be a job to get mine off
I read your write up on the forum, watched this video. Brother you gave so much info but what is this part about running the stuff from valve cover to exhaust or? This needs to be shown and explained or else the whole recipe you gave us is Irrelevant….I got the delete kit and the hose and caps but I’m not sure exactly what I’m supposed to be doing when it comes to that part
If you cap the pcv at the block will the excess pressure in the block not cause seals to fail?
All that pressure goes out the valve cover breathers into the throttle body, caping the pcv is non consequential in these engines
@@BadAssEngineering I did that and my valve breathers filled up my air box with oily goop.
@@justinstatham6378 then don't run them into the manifold ? there's is a mechanical problem with your engine or you're using crappy oil if it blows so much
@ I run MOBIL 1 and change the oil every 3-5k. What could be wrong with the engine?
@ nothing is wrong, oil in the intake is normal, that's why you remove the pcv that recirculates into it
Una vez que desconecte la manguera PCV y ocupe el conector para la manguera que irá a la membrana del freno, que hago con la manguera PCV..??? Queda libre..??? sin volver a conectarla a ningún lugar..???
Whoa, whoa....you start out talking about you can't do this if got some active fuel management , what takes it from V8 to V4, that you have to disable it and you show some DiabloSport InTune box??? How does that work? Where's that info? So, now it has to always be in V8? Please explain this more.
These engines have collapsible lifters in 4 of the cylinders, the ECU activates them so the valves on those 4 cylinders remain closed while shutting spark and fuel, so the engine only runs on the other 4 cylinders. While working on V4 mode, the engine doesn't produce enough vacuum to run the brake booster. Using an ECU tune to disable the AFM is desirable, because these engine collapsible lifters are known to fail anywhere from brand new to hundreds of thousands of miles.
Got mine going out on my 2017 silverado at 50,000 miles. Ridiculous. Honestly is there a reason other than the afm system that a vacumn pump is needed ? Recently did same type delete on our 2009 vw beetle. Works great. Im 47 Every older car ive had used the manifold. Not sure when these pumps became common
With cylinder deactivation mode on V4, there is not enough vacuum in the manifold to operate the brake booster. It's a liability thing
Great video! So if I delete it I have to get some type of custom tune to get rid of the v4??
Gerwin Filmz not really, there are AFM range timers as well. A custom tune is what I wanted for myself tho
just put into M5 (if your truck is 09' or above) and the V4 mode will never be activated unless you put it back into D or M6
I don’t have doubts about this configuration because that’s how it was done in earlier models but I’ll have to get a tuner to make adjustments when I wish there was a physical if I’m not able to obtain a diablosport
Physically doing a DOD/AFM delete is ridiculously more expensive
@@BadAssEngineering the physical delete of AFM requires new lifters and a new cam. It's a significant remove and replace process, and significantly more costly than re-programming to delete the AFM/DOD function or purchasing the Range module (~$200) to disable AFM/DOD
If i have an oil catch can , can i T it off that same hose you ran it to your intake manifold ?
Did you try it that’s what im gona do
@jr.zz7162 I'm gonna try it and if I have a shitty brake pedal feel I guess il just remove the catch can, block off the crankcase vent by the throttle body should vent fine from valve covers 🤷♂️
I need a source for oil pressure sending unit on my LV3 V6. Do you know which blocked off vacuum pump hole produces pressure ?
I don't know, the easy way of doing that would be to try the plug and sending unit in either hole, and if doesn't work, switch
I saw this in the forum as well . Great husband thank you. So ? How did you run your catch can and where is location?
Catch cans don't work, my pcv goes to a crankcase evac to the exhaust
So you have a evac system . Is it a summit evac
@@cheetoz6902 Moroso 25900, but i guess a summit kit is the same
On the front of manifold what did you use to block off the pcv port that you pulled the line off of?
on the front of the block** i used a rubber cap, autozone sells assortments on various rubber vacuum cap sizes
@@BadAssEngineering
Have you noticed any oil consumption after turning off the afm with the tuner?
@@Chief6067 no, nothing
I just did this to my 2014 4.3l and still have a service brake assist message so I went to get it diagnosed. The pedal no longer gets hard but the abs is acting funny. I replaced both wheel bearings and both rear sensors. The shop said it’s getting an incorrect reading of vacuum. I’m thinking it’s either the sensor on the booster or the ebcm. The shop said I’d have to put it back to stock for them to dig deeper into the problem. Just wondering if you had any issues along these lines. Yes I do have a Diablo tuner disabling the afm.
Did your vacuum pump fail before you did the delete ?
I have an oil catch can installed on my truck. Do I need to remove the catch can to do this delete, or is there another way to get the vacuum for the brake booster?
get rid of the catch can, they dont work and dont prevent carbon buildup
@@BadAssEngineering care to elaborate? Pcv vents crankcase pressure doesn’t it? If crankcase pressures get too high you’re blowing oil into your cylinders. I can’t say wether or not you can plug up the Pcv or not I’m not sure but to say catch cans don’t prevent buildup is nonsense. These engines are direct injected meaning no fuel is cleaning the back of the valves. And the Pcv hose you rerouted in this video directs all that oil to the intake.
@@warboy4004 pull your intake manifold and find out the catch can scam
Gonna be doing this soon, will a range AFM disabler be enough to delete the v4? Or do you recommend a tune.
I have never used an AFM disabler, but for what it costs, getting a tune for a little extra gave me much more advantages. Also; do the Throttle pedal stick mod for more response
I have the Range afm disabler
and it works perfectly. The car doesn't go into V4 and shifts much better also .
@@BadAssEngineering what’s the more response from the pedal mod??
@@braylonwoodell5465 search for Silverado paint stick throttle 👀
Hey bud, great video you shared here! I watched it several times, along with others but still have a question when it comes to a supercharged L86. I want to get rid of the pump and I am willing to add an electric pump but would much rather attain vacuum from the motor. Any thoughts?? Thanks
You could also add a good check valve so boost from the manifold doesn't go into the booster, or do the electric pump but I don't have any experience with those tho
How did you delete the stock pcv fitting on top that goes along the intake manifold? I’m not understanding how you deleted that if it’s not being used anymore.
You don't delete the fitting from the manifold, you use it to connect the manifold to the booster. The line that originally goes from the manifold to the pcv under the throttle body is deleted
@@BadAssEngineering hmmm. Ok. I’ll look closer tomorrow but mine is a 2017 with a 6.2. The line from the throttle body runs on top the intake with no connection or fitting to latch onto. It runs as a hose/line straight all the way back and down the firewall. The one you showed had a pcv fitting to connect to, where I don’t think I have that. Which could almost be easier if I just ran that line from intake to the brake booster fitting, but I’m not sure that’ll work. Unless I’m missing fittings somewhere but I have no connection to go to, unless it’s in the back of the engine down along the firewall.
@@jaybilawchuk2225 careful, there is a line to the manifold that pulls the evap from the fuel tank, the other is the pcv. The pcv on 6.2s are in a different place than on 5.3s
@@BadAssEngineering ahh ok. That makes sense why I’m not finding the proper line to connect to. I’ll try look tomorrow to find where that would be on the 6.2. I’m not sure where it’ll be but you are probably right saying the line I was talking about goes to evap for the tank. That looks exactly where it is going. I’ll have to research for the 6.2’s.
The DOD the only electronically deleted? Thanks for the content
You can use a Diablo handheld tuner or a Custom HP tuners to do it
@@BadAssEngineering Thanks :)
Awesome video but i have a oil catch can that runs between the intake and my PCV, will i have to remove this catch can or is there a way to keep it and still do the delete?
Catch cans only work when cold, and Most pcv gases go to the intake from the valve covers anyway, there is no point in keeping it
@@BadAssEngineering awesome, if you dont mind me asking one more question, where is your valve covers vented to? I see you have a hose coming from them but where does it go? And do you just leave the PCV valve open once you disconnect the line?
@@brandinharrison935 my valve covers feed the pcv gasses to an Exhaust Evacuation System, also called "evac". It uses the exhaust flow vacuum to pull the pcv gasses from the engine
@@BadAssEngineering is the evac system needed to safely do the pcv delete?
@@brandinharrison935 no, it is not. you can delete your pcv line and use it for the brake booster only, most gasses go out the valve covers into the intake air box anyway. The manifold pcv line only pulls a little bit of gas when there is vacuum on the manifold
What did you use for your valve cover crankcase breathers?
The stock fittings sending the valleys down the exhaust using an Evac 👀👀
@@BadAssEngineering have any more pictures of that?
Thanks for the video man but I had a question about the vent hose from the valve covers. I noticed you plugged the passenger side and you have your driver side to your exhaust. What if I have both connected to my intake tube on a aftermarket cold air intake?
Thats fine, you just delete the crankcase-to-manifold line like i did in the video
All right cool thanks I'm going to knock it out this weekend thanks man 🤙🏼
Currently working on a 4.3 v6 and the pump has failed due to the wonderful design of using a plastic impeller pretty much but the 4.3 should produce enough vacuum for the delete? The 4.3 has ran on vacuum from the intake for 30+ years so I’m thinking it should work just as well or better then the pump. I actually replaced the pump and I know the pedal gets hard after pressing it 2-3 time and is harder at low speed/rpm braking but it just feels like something is wrong with the braking. It stops and works just like it did when brand new but obviously there was a design flaw when it was brand new
Spencer Dean it should be fine as long as you deactivate the afm to always run the engine in V6 mode
I have a 2015 Yukon and I’m planning on deleting this same thing but I have a catch can running from the dirty side to the clean side of the manifold any ideas to run a catch can and delete the vacuum pump?
Catch cans only work for drag racing applications. It only works for a few minutes at a time when the vessel is cold. There is no real use when using one on a street car; most of the pcv vapors go out the valve cover vents into the air box anyway
What's the use of a vaccume pump?
Thanks for this video man. I am wondering if you have any idea how to do this mod with a JLT catch can installed?
Catch cans don't really work other than on drag cars
I see we have better engineers on here than we do at the Chevrolet place
Works on l86 with AFM turners off, but I have a suction noise when pressing/de-pressing brakes that I can hear inside the cab. Is this normal now?
You might want to check the brake booster itself, but if the brake works well and it doesn't feel hard it should bebok
I have a 2018 Denali HD 3500 Duramax Diesel with a 6.6. Will this video be the same procedure and part numbers listed? Thank You
Michael toma No, diesel engines don't have throttle bodies, intake manifold is never under vacuum. Don't do it, this procedure is only for L83/L86 Gasoline engines
How long was the hose that you used from the booster to the manifold port
Around 3 feet
I have a 2016 with the 6.2 Intake manifold. If I perform this process will the engine create enough vacuum to operate the wastegate and bov and boost gauge as well as the brakes when I do the final installation on the turbo kit?
The White Whale you will have to do more modifications to the vacuum line, like having bypasses and check valves to not let boost go to the brake booster. It gets more complex when boosting.
BadAssEngineering yes, I already have the 3/8 check valve and a catch can. My pump ticks and I want to get rid of it lol. But my curiosity is that I’m feeding from the valley to the catch can and then from can to im. So if I reroute from the IM to the booster where would I feed the catch can back to? Or would I simply just have to add a tee at the I’m connection and have a check valve in both lines. No much info on these newer trucks and supporting mods. Like everyone we are learning as we go lol
The White Whale I would get rid of the Can or vent it to atmosphere. Also you could run a crankcase evacuation system like the one I'm running. Moroso PN 25900
BadAssEngineering interesting. You should put a vid out on that. I would be interested to see the benefit of the evac system and how it’s installed vs using the catch can system. I end up having a ton of blow by into my catch can. But you have done great with the video and help with a few of my curiosity’s
The White Whale catch cans that recirculate to the intake manifold are a swivel LOL
I see you are running your valve cover vent lines somewhere else. How are you venting your PCV system?
To The Exhaust using a Crankcase Evacuation System (Moroso 25900)
Can I run a catch cam and use a three way to run the brake booster to the intake or do you have to plug the pcv?
Josh I guess you could, but catch cans in the vacuum line don't do anything to prevent carbon buildup (most of the vapors go out the valve covers anyway)
Is your idle better
Is it the same for a 4.3 ?
Thank you for posting this vid!
Anytime, bud. Dont forget thread the other details on the forum
@@BadAssEngineering most definitely. I'll be doing this mod when I pickup a programer.
Did the delete.. now I'm getting o2 codes is it related or something different 2014 v6
Check the codes, sounds more like an o2 sensor shorted out
@@BadAssEngineering no codes untill I did this but like I said not sure if this caused it or just something else thinking of putting a t connection there to see if codes return
@@douglasroberts487 check for any vacuum leaks, but most likely it's unrelated
Could the vacuum pump be the reason why my brakes are locking up ? I thought it was my calibers I change them & it does the same thing, after driving it for awhile my brakes won’t release back stay stuck like the brakes were on.
No, Sounds like some other problem. I dont know what could be causing it, but i would check the booster and master cylinder
Sounds like a proportioning valve sticking
My 2015 suburban vac pump went out my afm is already programmed out how do I cap off the crank case line can u explain alittle more or show a pic
With a little 3/8" hose cap
Awesome so just cap that one off and want though a engin code ? I appreciate it
@@samjackson8898 it won't throw any codes, all of the PCV pressure horas out the valve cover hoses anyway
Awesome thank you our vacuum pump went out 500 miles from home on vacation and this will be easy Lowe’s /autozone fix especially since I have no tools on the road thanks 👍
I am going to cut the belt off leave the vacuum pump on and cap hose coming off of it as well Till I get Home and order the vacuum delete kit
I appreciate ur videos
Great video! Good job!
You did a great job with this video and also answering all the questions guys asked about this mod. I'm doing mine this weekend. I ordered a performance vacuum hose for race cars for the Vac line.
michael i used a heavy duty brake line hose for trucking applications
What do you think about adding a jegs vacuum reservoir in line. And if your engine stalled you still have backnup vacuum and will still have brakes
michael I don't have any experience with that, but the brake booster should have enough reservoir for a couple of pumps after engine shutdown
Would this work w a Range Afm delete tuner thingy?
Thanks big dog
Most likely yes, it's the same principle that electronically avoids the V4 mode from engaging right ?
So do you have to run a cold air in order to do the delete kit or can you use the original to the filter box?
Tyler Kaluza no, you don't touch anything before the throttle body to do this delete. You can have a stock airbox or cold air, doesn't matter
@@BadAssEngineering what about the pcv lines what do you get for those
Tyler Kaluza I have a Crankcase Scavenging System to the exhaust
@@BadAssEngineering you have to have that? The crankcase scavaging system
Tyler Kaluza no, they're independent systems that don't interfere with each other
What if u have an oil catch can where do i hook up the vacuum lines to?
You remove it, it doesn't do much to prevent carbon build up anyway
@@BadAssEngineering lol
Maybe a dumb question, but the existing crank case hose runs down the middle of the motor in addition to the vacuum pump hose that it getting deleted. Im working on a 15 5.3 and I noticed your truck didn't have that hose pre installed. Any idea what it is?
It's the direct pcv case-to-manifold like, you can just cap it off in this case (what I did)
@@BadAssEngineering thanks for the reply. Can you suggest what to use to cap it?
@@resid3nt I removed the line and capped the nipples with an autozone rubber cap kit
@@BadAssEngineering right on brother. BTW, I also do the same burnouts lol
@@resid3nt when you cap that little pcv line, all pcv vapors go out the valve cover breathers anyway, so you should be just fine
Can you leave the 2 valve cover lines connected to the intake box?
Yes
What do I do with the fitting on the block? The one right up front closest to the throttle body?
You just cap it, all the PCV goes out the valve covers anyway
@@BadAssEngineering
What did you cap it with?
@@Chief6067 Autozone Rubber Vaccum Caps
@@BadAssEngineering
Did you need to secure the vacuum cap with any kind of clamp?
Don’t mean to ask so many questions but I want to do this on my truck and just want to be sure
Awesome video too
@@Chief6067 Questions are always appreciated! a black zip tie well tightened on the cap is more than enough.
Can you just leave the pump on and just cut the belt. and plug the hose
You could try that
Why remove the pcv , i dont understand ?
Can I delete the vacuum pomp without delleting afm
You could have no brakes when cruising in V4 mode
why not just do everything except actually removing the pump just remove belt and switch the vacuum line to the intake like you did but don't worry about actually removing the vacuum pump or is there a good reason for actually removing the pump
You could do that, i enjoy going all the way
So I did this to my 2018 6.2. Brakes work as they should. But I keep hearing a sucking noise at my master cylinder. Is there a way to remedy this? Maybe a vacuum reservoir? My truck is completely stock besides this mod and the tune to disable v4 mode
I don't hear any noises on mine, I would check if at any point there is a leak on the line or the connections
Josh, i have this sucking noise too on my 6.2 after doing this mod. Did you ever find the cause or solution? Thanks
You have a leak in your brake booster up top when this pump goes bad it gets oil in them.
Any fix for it mines doing the same thing.
@@JUANCRAMIREZ19 It fixed mine now I have brakes I can count on
Can someone point me in the right direction of the part number or a link for the parts
Did you notice any difference in the sound of your engine at idol. I've always thought my vacuum pump was excessively loud.
Blair Barham no, because my pump was fine. If yours is making sound I would swap/delete it immediately
You may not be hearing your vacuum pump. Your engine has a built in mechanical fuel pump that increases fuel pressure for the direct injection. 2014 and some 2015 engines make significant noise from that pump.
@@daveo211 this is a long shot since I see this comment is a year old...but I just bought a 2015 GMC Sierra and it has a pretty noticeable whining sound compared to any other truck I have owned ,seems like it is coming from the vacuum pump but I cant tell for sure, it sounds like when a power steering pump is low on fluid but since this truck has electronic power steering that cant be. even my mechanic cant figure it out he suspects the vacuum pump but admittedly is not sure. if it is just a normal sound for this truck then maybe I will just live with it but it really is like nails on a chalkboard for me . I hear it especially when I first start engine as the rpm lowers down just a low growl/ whine. driving me crazy trying to figure out.I have heard other trucks same year do have this sound but it seems wrong to me. I have it recorded and willing to PAY someone to listen to it and give me their thoughts. I really cant stand it. coming from a toyota tundra that ran without any issues for over 400,000 miles this truck seems delicate and honestly cheap.paid $27,000 for a truck with 80k miles so I am hoping I am not looking at some serious issue here. my thoughts range from torque converter to water pump, fuel pump, vacuum pump. had entire transmission replaced because I was told that was the issue by another mechanic and that didnt fx it either...(luckily warranty covered that even though it ended up not being the issue) I just want it to stop sounding like shit.
@@AsTheWheelsTurn oil pump
What would happen if you just left the pump in place? Cut the belt and run your hoses. Put a plug on the old pump hose connection.
You could try that
@@BadAssEngineering What did you use to close off the PCV connection on the front of the engine block, some kind of tape or sealant?
@@kentheis105 there are rubber plug kits on autozone, you can either plug the stock ports or harvest and plug the fittings
@@BadAssEngineering I decided to just unplug that PCV connector you used, did not reuse the connector or cut it off. I temporary plug that end. Connected the new hose to that port and clamped it on, ran it back to the Brake Boost. I then plugged the old vacuum line and cut the belt off the old Vacuum pump, leaving it a dead stick. I gave that a try and my brakes work just fine, truck is running normal. I'll leave it this way for a while just in case there is a need to put it back to stock but so far, no issues. I just don't see a need to spend the time removing that vacuum pump to put two plugs back in if I already have the old vacuum line plugged and the belt removed. If someone thinks this is a bad idea, I'm whiling to make a change. After 50 miles and a lot of brake pedal time, its working great!
@@kentheis105 you should be good if the booster gets vacuum just fine, just beware of thin vacuum hoses that can collapse
How did you delete the front pcv port
You just cap it shut, they sell those rubber caps on autozone in an assorted kit
What if you have a oil catch can ?
i would take that off, those dont even prevent carbon buildup
Can I remove the vaccum pump without disable the afm?
You can but there is the risk of not enough vacuum for the brake booster
Would it work on a v6?
I’m watching this and checking tomorrow morning
Another great video!
Since you deleted you PCV, have you noticed any oil leaks?
nope
Will i still be able to run my catch can after this delete?.
Don't run a catch can, they stop condensing the oil after q couple of minutes. Catch cans are meant to run for short periods of time like drag racing...
@BadAssEngineering idk about that. Installed catch can at 50k and now at 150k.
@@viixiconik lol remove your intake manifold and see how those ports look
Can a brake vaccum pump issue cause a vaccum leak and eventually a check engine light P0172 code?
Rafael De Lima I don't think so, you should check for leaks in the manifold or a bad MAF.
I can't find no leak might be the MAF. I cleaned it let see if code comes back. Chevrolet said they will replace the pump but I think I just gonna delete it. Is there like a delete kit somewhere?
Rafael De Lima the delete kit is a couple of plug bolts, all the info is there in the video. P0172 code means the engine is running rich, it should not related to the Brake Vacuum system on 2014+ GM Trucks
I know that! The reason I ask is before vaccum leak in one of the reasons to get that code.
Rafael De Lima did you check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold/airbox?
Will this make check engine come on?
Nope
@@BadAssEngineering my mechanic said it need to be tuned to pass emissions.my afm already disabled
I have a 2017 GMC Sierra DENALI Ultimate truck with 40,066 miles and I haven’t experienced that issue yet.
You will
Thank you so much , is very good information
Do I need a programmer do do this brake vacuum pump delete?
If you don't have AFM disabled then yes
Does anyone know if there is a kit that includes the hosem
La manguera que sale de la tapa de punterías hacia donde va
Julio Ruiz al escape para ventilar los gases de la pcv. Es un Exhaust Scavenging System. Número de parte Moroso 25900.
BadAssEngineering le quiero quitar la bomba de vacío a una sierra 2016 tienes imágenes de paso a paso es que tengo una duda en una manguera que veo que le pusiste en la tapa de punterías pero nomás veo que está abajo del boster
Se le puede quita el vacumm pump sin desinstalar el afm ?
Good video. Thanks for posting.