Tearing Down the 318 for the Budget HorsePower 1972 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- it was a big day for progress on the road to the dyno
FIND MERCHANDISE HERE:
-- blacktopyc.com...
INTERESTED IN SUPPORTING THE CHANNEL?
Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE,
Check out the membership for additional content.
-- Membership: / @lunaroutlawsgarage
TO FOLLOW AND TO SEE WHAT'S UP HEAD HERE:
-- Facebook Page: / lunaroutlawsgarage
-- FaceBook Group: / 989120924790314
-- Instagram: / lunaroutlaw
-- email: LunarOutlaw@gmail.com
Mailing address:
LunarOutlaw's Garage
P.O. Box 7
Averill Park NY, 12018
-- Paypal: www.paypal.com...
#Hemmings #projectcar
A very special thank you to those who have contributed to the channel
Nigel Stringfellow
Michael Vacca
ARP has done a hell of a job convincing people that every build needs ARP studs...
yup it sure does
True! Just reuse the old one's.
Whats wrong with using new/better studs?
Reusing head bolts was no big deal until torque to yield bolts came out. Those are totally fine.
Really John? Then I will pull them back out of the head bolt bin
Yeah, the torque go yield bolts are designed to stretch a specific amount when torqued past the yield limit. Like 65lb. ft. + 90°, etc. That gave an even clamping force, but distorts the bolt. The old bolts were torqued traditionally.... the are torqued to about 90% of their yield and have a tensile stretch for torque, but it’s not permanent because they don’t pass their yield.
Ya I am use to using modern head bolts
Could be a factory mistake, they got kinda sloppy in the early 70's, Probably out hunting Corinthians for the leather they needed for Cordobas.
There aint no set way to break head bolts loose ..break'em loose and yank the head the sequence only counts when torquing the new gaskets down and even on diesel engines if they aint stretched or ,cracked or pitted reuse them save yourself some money 9 times out of 10 head bolts arent gonna be bad never used arp bolts or studs on our dirt track,asphaul or drag cars never had eny issues
First video I have watched all the way through so far. Bravo! Looking foward to the rest of the build.
Thanks John 🤙
Have a good time rebuilding the 318 . With that ridge in the top of the bore and the rusted cylinder, it's a good bet it will need to be overbored , and new pistons . Great channel .
Gotta tell ya - My shop is hardly a showplace, but you gotta get a little better organized - your place really is a train wreck. Tidy it up a bit - it will make your work SO much easier.
Take them bolts with ya, Uncle Tony will tell you they are fine.
Love to see it. Took tonys advice for my 318 1973 satellite sedan.... “a loose motor is a happy motor”
I love how you use the vacuum during disassembly. Uncle Tony would be proud of you
Two minutes into the vid and had to stop it and comment... Heck yes...a Thermoquad!!!!👍👍 my fav carburetor!!! Youll love it. Awesome choice!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Lol I feel like we can all learn more about them from Tony. They are a great carb if you know how to use them
They are an awesome carb. Have 13 of them in the shed
@@Welcometofacsistube nice!!! I used to be 'that guy'...!!! Will be again too I hope!!!👍👍
the thermoquad is a pice of shit no matter you set them up
Looking forward to this build.....👍
I like that your garage is about at full of stuff as mine. That's what real life looks like
Back in the day we called them a thermobog. If you can get the air door on the secondary set up and working properly, you might like it. Don’t go nuts with the cam, a stock 68’ 340 grind is a good choice
The manual transmission 68 340 grind was the lumpiest cam ever put in a small block Mopar from the factory.
@@johnwilburn - yes, still not as wild as the Hemi grind. It makes goood power with a 318, and since he's using an auto trans I think its a good choice.
I agree. It would work well.
If you do, you probably will need a slightly higher stall converter
@@frankjones4950 - Huge cams in cars which will see more street miles than track miles, I learned the hard way it is a bad idea, loose converters are for the track. This is a heavy car with a small displacement low rev engine, torque is important.
As soon as you mentioned UTG I subscribed to your channel lol. I know that sounds weird but UTG rocks and im sure this will also.
they were fun tearing down
Remember that uncle Tony likes his motors backwards.
Really love my pneumatic tools
Toss that brock! Never have had good luck with Edlejunk on a Mopar
I understand installing the head bolts in a specific pattern but it’s it necessary to remove them that way too
Yes, Mopar rods and caps are numbered - 1 3 5 7 drivers side, 2 4 6 8 passenger side. The 5 and 7 miss match is somebody else’s screw up.
thank you Ron for explaining that
Good catch Ron all my engines mopars are numbered.
My thought was that someone who had been in there before borrowed a rod from another engine for some reason.
Paul Fox Probably, but that’s not good because a rod and cap are machined together and stamped as a set.
something that also should get mentioned....Mopar was loath to toss parts on the assembly line if they could get re-machined. If there's an "A" at the end of the ID pad in front of the valley cover, there's a .02 overbore by the factory. A "B" means the mains/rods are .01 undersize. A maltese cross means the crank is .001 undersize, check the #3 counterweight for an R or an M to suggest rod or main, and a four point diamond resting on its point means the lifter bore is .008 oversize.
Dude you had me as soon as you said thermoquad!
As an old Quadrajet Master I can say Factory carbs have millions of dollars of development behind them and are mostly built to higher quality as warranty issues must be avoided. I used to build QJs that would run circles around a Holley.
Great job you got a lot of work done in two days!
Boyz From Illinoinz Are Ready !!!
great engine
rofl The ol Thermoquad. I got a job in a C/P dealership as a kid. There were dozens of Hollys in boxes above the parts room. I asked the guys why. They had so many warranty complaints about the Holly equipped cars Chrysler said "SCREW THAT NOISE!" and replaced all the Hollys with the Quad. The tune-up guys swore by the Thermoquad and hated Hollys. The boss said I could have all the Hollys I wanted, but because I was a Ford guy and they were all spread bores I passed.
Well adjusted Carbs. are awesome !!
I love a thermoquad! I just rebuilt 3
Nice video Brian. I can't wait to see all this completed. Gonna be Awesome 💥💥👍STAY SAFE🙏
Thank you silverback
Great content as always keep up the great job
When I updated the ole ranch truck (71 D-100)
The cam bearings were in the flake stage of life machine shop got the block back to round straight and square. I used performer cam,lifters,springs,dbl roller chain, and intake.
Matched the ports to four barrel gaskets hardened Ex seats, real roller rockers, summit 600 carb, electronic ignition and hooker long tubes. No idea on HP but it's strong and real snappy
Central California watching
That sounds like a fun engine build. It is always fun to Dyno something but it is more important to just have fun with the engine
I use a 3/8 deep socket six side with a half inch adapter to half inch brake bar for that middle head bolt
great fun video...keep up the good work.Can't wait to see you at Uncle Tony's!
I am excited about all that we can lean this is going to be awesome
@@LunarOutlawsGarage I'm basically doing the same thing to my 1970 Fury III convertible.
I'm new I just run a cross your channel.i love it thanks for explaining.and express ing your option..I all do watch uncle toney.
Thanks for checking it out I hope you enjoy the projects
Uncle Tony for the win!
where did you get that awesome baseball cap with UTG printed on it?
Anything over 800 to 850 is a waste on the 318s. Love the thermoquad
I reused bolts all the time, head bolts, cap bolts, water pump bolts, I keep a nice organized stash of original bolts inside one comes up short or someone sticks something else in a motor.
Now there's a shop that has Nascar perfection written allll over it! LOL!!!!
Lol 🤙
Oof that's is very unfortunate about the rust in the cylinders. And holy cow your almost at 5,000 subscribers! Congratulations man great video
Thank you! ya the block is rough
@@LunarOutlawsGarage nothing you cant fix though!
Great bolt removal trick!!!!
awesome
Thank DYNA
Thermoquad is the best carb for this. Going to be awesome.
"No, we're not going to use the Edelbrock, no, we're not going to use the Holley..." :)
Dude, you can reuse the headbolts - they are not torque to yeild
Now you've got your own stunt cam!
Unrelated tip: The best and cheapest race gas is AVgas 100LL. its like $4-$5 a gallon and is 100 octane leaded gas. It's ment for small planes like Cessna's and you can buy it at any municipal airport. Most wont let you drive a car up to the pump so what you do is fill up a gas can and just use some random planes tail number and pay with a credit card. The old slang term for it is blugas because they dyed the stuff blue so cops could ticket you if pulled over though this hasn't been enforced since the early 80's. And also, you can't use it on fuel injected cars or cars with smog because the lead clogs the cats and the o2 sensors.
Happy Hotrodding!
Thanks for the heads up. Lol I am getting Quite the collection of stent cams I think I have three cams and 1 carb that are junk
bryan did that engine have a heat stove on the exhaust manifold drivers side ?
damn, that edelbrock chuck was epic! put it in your intro
Lol
Great job, one of my favorite parts is tearing and engine down too.
Just something about it That is just fun
As a Mopar guy I only had 1 car with a factory Thermoquad,as those were used in the smog era..Carter non thermoquad (edelbrock bought them later on and its the same as the ones used on mopars) were used and even Holley carbs from the factory 6 bbl and 440 non hi perf 4bbl were holleys,I think some 2bbl cars used holleys.
My two barrel was a Carter.
How did I ever find the rebuild kit for it?
My experience was, for the 318, and a mildly hot cam, with an automatic, the 750 cfm Thermoquad was too much. It would bog as soon as those big secondaries opened. But the Carter AFB (on which the Edelbrock is based), was perfect.
Thermoquads are amazing when tuned right, ran them on 360s and 340s. They sound wild when you tromp into the secondaries.
I really think people are just miss educated about them. I know I was. Let’s make them have a come back they’re well worth it and inexpensive
@@LunarOutlawsGarage the ones after 74 had some drawback but it's escaping me right now. It might just be a tunability issue though. A guy I used to have build them for me was known as DemonSizzler, had a site, I need to look him up again. he was the Ace when it came to those.
I wanna do a video on how to tune them but I have along way to go for me to understand them 100%
@@LunarOutlawsGarage a lot of it revolves around the air door setting. UTG could explain it well.
That is what I have read.
That thing had so much schmutz on it, it looks like a 60s Ford!
Coming together...more I watch the more I am determined to to find a project. (Chevelle, Nova, Skylark, even a Ventura...70's of course) ballin on a low budget though
Talk about those who don't bother to change oil. tore down a 350 sbc for a neighbor . Ya, "its in perfect mechanical condition" Turned out flat lobe syndrome causing backfires thru carb. even the cam bearings had a nice layer of varnish on them. Knew he wasn't gonna run it long so it was done on a severe budget. rings, main and rod bearings. cam and lifters plus the usual lineup of gaskets and breakin oil. ( yes reused the cam bearings. you'd be amazed how much varnish was built up on the lifter bores as well ) . a good block cleaning. he ran that engine for a few years before the old guy disappeared. He bragged to all who listened how well that engine ran .
😳wow “perfect mechanical condition” lol. But it sounds like you made it happy and strong again. It also sounds like he was very happy with it running right again Great job man.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Its amazing how often I came across the Edelbrock 'performer' cam in various forms. a TRW . mine and the one from Sealed Power we chose from a catalogue based on how I thought the old guy would drive and it turned out to be exact same cam card.
Spring tension on the secondary air valve. Kinda Starwarsy but ya have to do that.
I have about 14 thermoquads cause in need them for tuning the one that sits on my 74 charger 440.
Wow 14 that is very impressive
Wouldn't be surprised if the factory did goof. They weren't the best for quality control.. This project is moving along nicely. Good luck!
Fingers crossed! thank you
Would you run magnum heads on the short block?
CHRYSLER's are marked from the factory on the rod's on both the cap and rod look on the side where they go together.
Anytime I found an engine with a factory defect inside of it or mistake I call it a Monday motor nothing gets put together right on Monday
The frame for my 71 GS build was what I called a Friday frame b/c they where already hitting the sauce and halfway out the door. The welds are a mess and they we were nice enough to leave mig wire all over it is great for being stabbed over and over lol.
Every Friday at the C/P dealership was bar Friday at lunch time. All us techs except Larry were tipsy most Friday afternoons. Ah the 70s. Every once in a while even Larry would drink.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Dude I've found that shoddy construction in every 60s and 70s US car I've torn down. My 67 Mustang was maybe the worst. Surprisingly I think my Pintos and Mustang lls were the best built factory chassis I've made stock cars from. My current rod is a Duster, and it was horrible.
Man
number four cylinder looks rooted
on one hand if you have to sleeve a few cylinders that’s probably to be expected but either way it’s a strong looking block.....
Siamese bores.....
I know it’s a budget build but you can’t go past roller lifters and cam.... roller rockers and dialing in the pushrod lengths using light weight set up springs and a sharpie pen and an adjustable pushrod.... comes in a kit
That lifter that was worn down here in Australia we call those “eggcups” - That’s the best example you’ve got there I’ve seen in a long time.....
I would say that motor has got every sign associated with a lack of oil changes...... not to mention we don’t even know if they’ve even used the correct grade oil......
Looks good - can be done I can’t see how you going to avoid new Pistons which is a shame for a budget build demonstration.....
Not to mention if you’ve got a motor and it looks like someone else has been there before........ the whole thing is an un-known quantity so your just gonna have to measure everything three times check the crank journals for round clearances plastigauge everything because you don’t know the motor and you can put it back together and end up with a knock somewhere And that’s enough to bring you to tears...... but with uncle Tony on the job thats not gonna happen good luck boys...!!!!!
I was talking to tony and b/c the first thing I would do with this block would be The machine shop. So for the sake of expedience, and for the live build Tony is going to be donating a block in exchange this block
Shop vac is smart / most mechanics blow debris all over/ I also use a shop vac it's in my utube vids/ my other trick is to put a wet towel over the shop vac! Great job! I'm following you/ I build motors 👍
When that engine came out oil wasn’t as refined as well as today. 130k was high mileage.
Brian. Are you replacing the pistons ?
No they all look great
Love it..
My garage is a mess... Meh whatever's LOL
Haha
What stops you putting the cap back on the wrong way? We used to mark them on the side cap and rod to avoid accidentally mixing them up.
One side of the cap and one side of the rod is Marked to correspond with each other
@@LunarOutlawsGarage yeah that's the way we would normally do it, instead of marking top of the cap.
The rod bearing retainers in the rod and cap go on the same side.
@@johnwilburn yeah but unless you have the both the rod and the cap both marked it is easy enough to get the caps mixed up, especially if your clumsy like me and knock them over.
They are marked from the factory
Ive got a 72 satellite myself :) Love that car. they are getting hard to find!
Yes they are! unfortunately not b/c they are being saved
I wanted to see the bearings they should have a date on the back
Are you going to put headders or reg manafolds on it
You know you can get close to 400hp out of that motor without breaking the bank
I had a Thermoquad on my 360 powered Cordoba - once you agreed w/what the 'Quad would handle, it would be a good carb. I wouldn't set any 1/4 mile records w/her, but she always got me home.
They are a very interesting design and very unique
It is playing if you back out of the premier and just watch through UA-cam.
That was really bad YT why
3
Where u ordering cam set
It is is coming from comp cam
Great work, do you have a target date in mind when it will be done?
Engine build is the 3rd
It finally rendered yay sadly no live premiere but at least it’s working
that was painfull wow
LunarOutlaw’s Garage at least it finally came through
Right
I was getting worried
Common dude! I'm a 5'-10&1/2" tall 163# 69yrs old skinny guy! I BUSTED my 318's head bolts loose LAST NIGHT!!! (By hand cause harbor-garboridge elect impact pos too week) was shocked, teachin neighbors kid lil bout engines. He's 6-1 bout 180# he couldn't budge a couple of em either! But I got em! See my (real crappy) video, got motors everywhere, just like you! Lol Ooo then ya pull out da "CHEATER"! I don't bother doing bolts in order on teardowns.
AND DAMN! Those lifters are SCARY bad news! I tore into another 318 last week. Prev owner ground away intake to fit a thermoquad on it. LET SHAVINGS FALL INTO MOTOR & DROVE IT !
Tore up bearings, turning em to lil BB's . ruined it.
LOL I feel like that one but was torque down by 700 pound gorilla. But it was really just because it was so gummed up. Yeah I think I have a total of eight or nine engines between my garage in my basement.... I have a problem lol
Those AREN'T torque to yeald bolts !
@@LunarOutlawsGarage yeah, its funny how much torque is so different bolt by bolt. Engine i did pretty clean. Push red C in circle 🎥 see 60 Plymouth video! If you do I will let you in on a EXCLUSIVE plymouth secrete! (Btw I've got one if rarest Plymouth's Chrysler made. Shown in da cat videos) all very short vids.
Wanting to do 318 heads or 360? Is your intake 273/318 port size or 318/360 port size?
my understanding is we are going to stick with 318 for the smaller combustion chamber
Just asking. They’ll be good. I just have several 360 head cores.
If your intake has a 2.08 inch port, it’s 273/318 size. If it’s 2.27 inches, it’s 340/360. The 72 318 heads should have enough meat to port match anyway.
John Wilburn once I get them clean I will email you any markings I find
Not sure why but I get a itchy feeling every time there's a inside the garage sequence. Anyway nice work keep it up!
Lol I am an electrician by trade. Fiberglass doesn’t bother me anymore however Rockwool that stuff a savage 😂😂
hydraulic lifters with play?
the original VVT lol
Looks like that engine was ran when it was over heated, or the head gasket was blown out and ran for a long while to create the cooked oil and funkley stuff in the engine.
I've had my share of over used engines to rebuild when I worked for my buddy's shop back in the late 80's/early 90's and that engine block might need to be scrapped or resleeved
Going to measure those bores? May need an overbore with that rust in #4
I talked to Tony he as a core. We are going to just swap
TQs are great so long the body does not warp.
Funny you mention vvt i was about to say that lol
you need to chace them thread's out on the block
Surprised with you being Canadian you don't take it to the guru. Nick at Nick's Garage.
I’m not Canadian lol I am from NY
You mean to say a rich and affluent gearhead like your self does not have a breaker bar in 3/8's or 3/4 inch drive . WOW. Although I understand the logic in loosening head bolts in reverse order of tightening. never seen it recommended in any of my engine build books including my Chevrolet Power Manual. or I have forgotten it and / or not paying attention. I just put the appropriate socket and extension on my Husky impact tool in reverse. And let it turn em all the way out.
I do that because most of the engines I build are like the LS, 7mgte, 2JZ, and the M54 it is good to take the head bolts out in reverse order so that the Aluminum heads don’t have a bad time. The first engine I ever built from the ground up with a 7MGTE and the Toyota Service manual said to do it for that reason lol i’ve done it that way from that point on.
Just did that 4 times before it works
Ah yes old school vvt
lol
My first 318, when I got it, sounded a little rough. I pulled the intake to discover bent pushrods. Someone let the chain wear out to the point of jumping time, they replaced the chain and left the pushrods. Two of them were hitting the cylinder head.
Did you guys see the crank and the rubbing of the counterweights,looks to me a really bad thrust bearing.
Never seen that happen to a 318 but always a first.
I could be wrong but that looked like. Really bad thrust bearing.
You are 100% correct tony is hooking us up with a core when we get down there
I hate to rumor monger, but I was reading on a Mopar forum yesterday, that you were really Uncle Tony's son from an estranged past. I gotta level, there is an uncanny resemblance.
Hahaha people keep saying that.🤘
That head bolt reminds me of a bolt on a go kart carb it would spin but not come out
Find a 85-91 hydraulic roller 318 and build that, roller lifters and cams are cheap compared to retrofit roller cams. If you find a fuel injected engine, the inside would be even better.
Man you have alot to learn. Clean your shop. Geez man, what a mess. Good luck with it.
I appreciate your feedback. It’s a less a shop and more a 450 square-foot garage with Thousand square foot worth of tools, frames, 7 engines, and 5 cars worth of parts.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage I know dude. I been there. Its hard to stay organized. But it sure helps if you are.
Sometimes you can waste alot of time just cleaning stuff up. I know it takes me 1 hour to make a mess and 3 hours cleaning it up, haha
@@mopar1465 lol. I have learned to clean up as i go along. Stay organized. I wasnt like that when was younger though. I messy too.
Pls cover up the insulation in ceiling the fine fiber enter into your lungs thus destroying them want you around along time
Luv your videos.
I am getting a proper garage very shortly this was only a temporary solution
Unless it’s a torque to yield. The bolts are reusable. Those if you look at the head is stamped grade 8... however it wont kill the pope by using a new set. Of head bolts
They are numbered from the factory for what cylinder they are in
That’s what I figured but I wonder why number eight was five and number five is five
Yeah that's kind of weird somebody might have threw a piston in that hole isn't that one of the holes that has bad cam lobe
you are correct that was the one with the wiped out cam
I have a good 440 and a tunnel ram that would look pretty sweat sticking through the hood of ol yeller
CI x VE x REVs / 3456, why do you need 800+ CFM the Holley would do just fine.
I like the idea that it will look very mopar
@@LunarOutlawsGarage I wouldn't take off a Holley to put on a Quadrajet, but each to their own. They aren't a bad carb if you know how to set them up.
Dodgy Brothers Engineering Maybe you mistyped? He’s putting on a thermoquad.
@@raoulcruz4404 have no idea why I was thinking Quadrajet when he said Thermoquad.
The Holley is a great carb, but the Carter Thermoquad was really common back in the day so it kinda goes with the budget build part. It will be easier for people to replicate.
They have marked over both to avoid hitting the rod twice.
Suit yourself, but cast on cast, the bolts are fine. 100 engines, and up to 575 hp.
Ya I wouldn't reuse stressed head bolts either
Dont skimp on cost replace the cam bearings too do it right the first time zippers are known to leak
Up cam bearings have already been ordered through Summit Racing they will be here Tuesday