Could The SAWMILL Cover COLLAPSE?! Adding A BRACE Before Testing Out The WINCH
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- Опубліковано 1 лют 2024
- In this video, Greg mills a brace to support the winch that was added to make turning logs A LOT easier. But, it wasn't as easy as just adding a winch to the sawmill. The winch can hold 2000 pounds, but can the beam and post that it's attached to stand the weight or will it cause them to break and collapse the sawmill? Although, the winch isn't lifting logs (it's just turning them) we just weren't comfortable with taking the chance. So, in comes the brace. It's definitely helping.
After adding the brace, Greg had to go to work the next day, so Erik (our brother-n-law), took over and tested out the winch, so we could share it in this video. He has also discovered a few more things that are going to need to happen before the winch will be 100%. But, that's for another time.
We are super thankful to Erik for not just milling, but helping us out with videoing! Pretty cool, especially for his first time!
Did you know we are building a barn out of wood that we are milling on our own sawmill?! If you haven't followed along with our BARN Build, make sure to check out that series in our playlists. We finished the slab this summer and are on a pause while we mill all of the lumber needed for the barn build. We have A LOT of milling in our future.
Here is the video where we share our barn plans. Our plans are from @BarnGeek We are excited to build one of his beautiful barns!
• Why Do We Think WE CAN...
***We are also so excited to have completed our sawmill cover enclosure (sawmill shed). Definitely check out our Sawmill Playlist to watch it all happen. We have shared the process of building our sawmill cover from the very beginning. We have a Woodland Mills HM130 Max sawmill and we live in North Idaho. The sawmill cover / sawmill shed is vital to continue milling for our barn build in the winter months, but it will also be a great way to keep out of the sun during the summer months, and of course all of the rain, in between!
Here are the specs on the sawmill cover / sawmill shed we built:
3 posts in the front
4 posts in the back
Overall dimensions are 15 feet wide by 36 feet long
Longest beam is 28 feet
Front part of the lean to roof is 11'9" and back is 8'
It will have a 3 :12 pitch
Posts and beams are going to be 7 1/2" x 7 1/2"
We have shared the entire build!
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Could The Sawmill Cover Collapse?! Adding A Brace Before Testing Out The Winch
February 2024 - Навчання та стиль
Overall, we are happy to have the winch useable, but definitely needed to get the brace up. What do you think of the brace and the other things Erik talked about that probably need to be addressed? Would love your insight! Hope you enjoy! 😁
Triangles are always your friend and support group. 17:21 a block behind the vert and post at height of yellow handle might reduce movement.
Tim, I can tell I'm out of my wheelhouse because with some of these comments I have trouble visualizing what people are trying to tell me. I need someone out there pointing to what they are trying to say - a little lost 😁@@ModernMountainLiving
Howdy y’all- I’m sure you will get it all figured out. Not having to use a peavy on big, heavy logs is a huge plus. Take care and God bless
Hi! Yes, our backs are already feeling better! Should have done this a long time ago! 😆 Thanks for watching! 😊
Hoist looks like a fun side project. Erik’s demo was great. Hoist 2.0 needs to be a bridge crane so you can lift all your heavy logs.
Now you’re talking 😁
This side project was fun but wish I would have done it a little different. Thanks for watching! 😁
I would recommend another U bracket to the very top of the vertical pipe installed with the 12" bolts and nuts like the current top U bracket. Perhaps, adding a heavy-duty L-rod to the top of the arm, as well as another cross-brace to current brace, also connecting to each other in two places for additional strength. Current setup is very questionable.
Very questionable made me laugh. And brings home the point of needing some more work. Plan on adding both of those suggestions. Thanks for your insight! 😄
Diagonal braces in the rear like in the front on all the posts. Bigger connection plate at the post top to the beam. Add a second post behind the first and tie the two together with a plywood patch top to bottom. Go ahead and run the wire tie back but run it high so it is our our your way. Next time use a bigger post in the front to back direction and a much bigger anchor set in a 24"x24"x24" or bigger footer/pad (same for if you run a second post behind the first). Bob in Nevada
Hi, Bob, so far the big wooden brace that was installed behind the post seems to be doing good. The wooden post and beams are not moving under the weight of the log. I am going to do some improvements on the bracing, starting this weekend.
We lived in Minden, NV before moving back home to Idaho! 😁
Attach the winch directly to the roof rafters - span 3 (or 4 or 5) rafters with some additional sistering and lift vertical would reduce the forces compared to mounting it to a vertical post. The load would then be shared by the front and rear headers. Also, by using the pulley to double the cable - your 2k winch CAN lift 4k lbs now (so, the supports need to be stronger)
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching! 😁
I’m sure all of the adjustments and modifications will be worth it in the long run.
Definitely helping! 😁
Since the strain on the whince is on the end that the whince is extended. I suggest you put another over size beam above that extend arm and put a iron strap or angle iron from the extended arm to that other new beam will definiately stop the pulling on your existing support. I hope I explained it much better and should be easy to do.
Hi, David, makes sense- I don’t think we are going to extend that arm any longer. Instead we are going to put a six inch post (or spacing in front of the existing wooden post ) to bring the whole thing out another 6”. Then move the bracket to the top. And weld a metal strap to the top with a spacer in the middle- like an engine lift has.
I really like your setup. I'm going to steal your ideas for myself but add some of my own. I've got a lot of work to do before I get close to what you have done
Hi, glad you like what I’ve done so far. Keep us updated on your improvements.
Side note - I farmed quite a bit in high school and raised 3-400 acres of Timothy for seed. Many many hours a swathing without a conditioner on it. Slow going for sure.
Excited to see the next one!
Thank you! 😁
Love your sawmill shed.... can't wait to get one built for my mill!
Thank you! What sawmill do you have?
Nice work, Erik!😊
We’ll let him know! 😁
Good fix. If your still worried you could sister your rafters at the joint. Make the sister rafter wider to support the beam. You would need at least 1 1/2" end bearing.
Hi, after using it for a couple of days - the sawmill cover seems solid. It’s just the arm that is flexing and it’s not long enough for some of the logs. Thanks for the input on sistering the rafters in. 😄
Good to see the winch in operation. Several thoughts. #1 I watched carefully and could not see any movement on the post or beam. If there is any movement that doesn't show on the camera it is probably minor. #2 The winch doesn't need to be mounted at the end of the arm. It could be mounted either on the beam or the post and the cable run through a pulley at the end of the arm. That would keep it pulling in line. And increase the amount of cable that you could pull. #3 Add a strap on the top of the arm to strengthen the arm. Look at a picture of a foldable shop crane to see the idea. #4 As Erik suggested, another strap at the top of the veritical post. #5 Making the horizontal arm longer or adding an adjustable insert so that you can adjust to the log diameter. Again, look at a picture of a foldable shop crane. #6 The horizontal arm should be bigger, thicker and longer. #7 If you mounted the winch either on the beam or post, you could have multiple hangers for the pulley that would allow you to pull straight up depending on the log diameter.
Lots of ideas for you to sort through. I used to tell them at work that I had lots of ideas. They all aren't good, but I have a lot of them. I hope that you find something useful in there. Glad to see the winch, it takes a lot of strain off the body. None of us are getting any younger.
Thanks for the video.
Hi, Mike!
1) I agree the sawmill structure seems good under load - so that's good.
2)That's a good idea - seems like the beam would be out of the way.
3)I just looked at the strap you are talking about. I have to bring this back to the welder so I will incorporate that.
4)Yep - we didn't put it up there initially because we wanted it to be on the post, but I know that I have that big brace behind it, we'll add one there too.
5) Sounds good 👍
6)Sounds like I should replace that horizontal piece with the bigger stock.
7)Adjustable either way - yes.
The winch/hoist is already making a big difference. Becoming second nature to turn logs.
I need to figure out how to get input prior to starting projects -
Thanks again for your knowledge and insight! 😄
Greg, take a look at a Harbor Freight Cherry Picker for reference on #3#4.
@@ourdreaminthewoods
If it was me I would use a guy wire/cable to a a block buried in the ground with a turnbuckle. Also thinking about it you aren't trying to lift so you could mount the winch straight to the beam and that would roll the log without it needing to lift much weight and you lose the leverage on the post.
Hi, John, I went back and forth with the cable support. I’m far from an expert on this, but the brace has definitely got to help. Thanks for your insight! 😄
A guy wire pulling outside the rear would create more problems. The force pushes out, and pulling out from behind would only magnify that.
The brace certainty helps with the joint being the comparatively weakest part of the link. Ideally, you would move the machine back on the arm as far as possible. This solves both the dip and flex, and puts the equipment in better position to pull anyway. Right now its working harder than it needs to.
That kill switch prevents you from doing that. You've bought a hoist, not a winch. Hoists lift up - hence the kill switch if it gets off center too much. Winches pull. I recommend solving the issue by by buying a winch and configuring the setup for that. you want it close to parallel, not up. Otherwise you're going to continue down the road of solving issues you don't need to.
I didn't catch the purpose during the first video, thought it was for lifting for some reason. Otherwise I would've commented.
Hi, KJ, what do you think about mounting the hoist/wench (now I know that they are not interchangeable 😁) on the beam close to the arm and then put a pulley over the logs?
@@ourdreaminthewoods ilI thought about that. I see two issues. First is the hoist. It's not designed to pull laterally and it could fail suddenly and catastrophically. That's the reason behind the guard. Second is the force on the pole. It's going to still want to pull in at the top and bow out in the middle and then put stress on the bottom because butted up against the load bearing post. So the wood is wanting to bend too. In that regard having it fastened to the member is hurting you, not helping you. You could move the pole but that doesn't solve the whole problem and creates others.
That's why I think continuing down a rabbit hole of fixing issues then having others arise because of the fix is happening here. Sometimes even with the sink cost it's better to redo entirely with a different approach.
A side winch would also have the benefit of you not having to operate it every time to lower it. You'd just grab the chain and wrap, rotated the log, unwrap and stow it and repeat.
Solves your counterclockwise rotation problem too.
You would want to stay well back or behind something with a side operation though. If that thing slips or the line breaks and hits someone that is a severe injury.
Hope this helps and makes sense. Sometimes it's hard to explain without drawings
Put a small square tube inside the bigger one to make it stronger and you could add a strap steel to the top and another gusit.
Hi, all good ideas - I’ll check into putting a smaller tube inside the existing square stock. Definitely going to do a strap and move the bracket up to the top. Thanks for watching! 😄
The more I think about your canter issue and strain on the extension of the winch, buying a mill with a hyrollic canters makes more sense, and remove the need for the winch completely.
Hi, David, buying a mill with hydraulics would be a dream. If I knew what I was getting into on this barn project- I might have went that route. But in a couple of years this will be an occasional use hobby mill. Thanks for watching! 😁
Make the winch support into a "C" shape by adding a member at bottom with a knee brace and your top and bottom will be of equal strength and not transfer any lateral forces to your saw shed structure. If you made bottom a "Y" with knee braces winck would or could be free standing adding no forces to your saw shed and could be easily repositioned in future if desired. Ray Stormont
Hi, Ray, took me a second to understand what you were saying - that bottom bracket would need to be beefier, I guess and it needs to have the ability to swing out of the way. Thanks for your insight. 😄
What I meant is an identical third leg added and welded so that it lays along ground and lets the lift support all its loads if you need floor clearence for bottom parallel added leg the new floor leg it could be welded up from the bottom and a short leg welded at the end of the leg to reach floor and provide leveling support, if you welded two bottom legs at a "V" angle the lift would have a stable base and be self supporting and would be free standing placed anywhere you wanted with no attachments to saw shed needed. Thanks for taking time to respond@@ourdreaminthewoods
Makes sense- problem of not knowing what I'm doing to begin with. Need to figure out how to let people give me advice prior to starting some of these projects. 😁@@user-vn6hi2bi3g
Your doing don't stop.@@ourdreaminthewoods
Useful info - thanks 👍
Thank you for watching! 😊
I do not think you need to add another knee brace but a bracket is needed and I would add a web atop of the horizontal tube!
I agree- add a bracket at the top and put a metal strap over the top like a foldable shop crane. Thanks for your insight! 😄
Love the shed and watching the mill is mesmorizing. Not to mention the milled pieces are beautiful. Could you make me a mantle? Hehe!!
Sure! But, you have to come up and visit to get it! 🤣
Well the dip and flex in the metal because it is good of weight even rolling a log
Hi, Wade, it’s working good, but it still needs a few modifications. 😁
lol the deer apparently don’t mind the sawing @4:30
They are pretty used to it! We have a few families that visit/ live on our property, so they definitely make appearances here and there. 😁
Have you considered using an Ibeam for the hoist to ride on. Would give more support for the winch. JMHO
I basically couldn’t figure out how to get the Ibeam to work without a lot more effort and money. 😁
Bridge the top like a tractor boom pole
Hi, yes, that is in the plans for the upgrade. Thanks for watching! 😄
Put a guide wire on back side. Just like a telephone pole is done.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching! 😁
You need a heavier steel piece in the l shape with a heavier diagonal brace. I would suggest a 3" x 4" rectangle steel with at least a 1/4" wall thickness. Ron USCG RET
Thank you! We definitely have a plan to address it after we get this structure going! 😊
The upper part you should made of ibeem. Not square tobe
I thought about an I-beam trolley at the beginning. But ended up going this direction because I thought it was simpler. Nothing turns out simple 😁.
In long term will be better I would do
My sawmill she'd isn't even close to as strong build as yours I got my wench mounted to the upright post got the wench line run to the roof rafters on a pulley I turn 3500 lb logs had no problem had it up for over a year
Hi, Danny, I tend to overthink things 😁
The winch is already working good and is saving our backs.
I probably will make a few modifications in a couple of weeks. Thanks for watching!
Why are there 4X4's on the ground where you are walking as you mill? These are tripping hazards. The walk-path should be clear.
Hi, 4x4s are there to store flitches and lumber/timbers until it can be put away. It is a muddy rainy mess out there and that thin piece of real estate is about the only convenient spot we have. Thanks for watching! 😄
@@ourdreaminthewoods May I suggest that perhaps you can build a ground level decking area so that it can make the path free of tripping hazards and still keep the flitches off the muddy ground. 🙂 or maybe add a nice layer of crushed stones and remove the 4X4's.
Gantry hoist beans
Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely check it out! 😁
I think you're worring a lot about nothing. The lateral stress that you seem to worry sbout would bend the steel frame work first. Thats going to take a lot of weight.
Hi, Steve, I worry about things because my knowledge isn’t that vast. The brace does make me feel better, but thank you for the support! 😁
@@ourdreaminthewoods I study how you do things because I have yet to build my Sawmill shed. The difference I am going to do is I'm going to build a carriage to mount the hoist. Just roll it out of the way when not needed.
That sounds like a good plan. The hoist is a welcomed addition for sure. I'm learning as I go but also try to learn off of others when there's content out there.@@stevek5988
I got the carriage idea off a UA-cam channel called Southern Air.
Thanks for sharing - always good to know other great channels. @@stevek5988
Looks like a lot of messing around , not faster at all, probably safely but definitely not faster
Erik was just trying to show how it works - you’ll see on future videos that it’s much faster. Plus, like with anything you are new to, you get faster with time and use. And, definitely a lot better for our aging backs! 🤣
Can't watch this, this thing can kill you! I am working with the cranes more than 40y and am retiring - mate if you don't want to be crippled tear this thing down and trow it in rubbish!
Hi, Robert, we do plan on several improvements that will help with safety. 😊