Cool review, I am from Germany, actually from Hessen, a direct grand grand grand son of one of the Hessen fought in America , greetings from Darmstadt Hessen, Germany 🇩🇪
North Cackalacky! w00t, you can introduce those Pennsylvania boys to some Southern hospitality, East Carolina BBQ, a bowl of Brunswick stew, and some hushpuppys. Oh and introduce them to some decent breakfast food too, grits, eggs, sausage, and biscuits. Scrapple and Toast is not people food. They can wash all this down with some sweet tea!
Seems like reasonably simple mechanics to learn. I never liked overly complicated rule sets that lead into long discussions and wasted time with setup and chaotic turns. The drama should always be on the board, not in interpretations.
The FM podcast for these rules was so helpful. It helped me altar some complex rules to extremely playable rules, and I was able to get my friends interested in miniature wargames. Thanks again
Ordered the rules and a Pendraken starter army! I’m glad I found this when I did, was contemplating getting into 28mm AWI but was discouraged by the number of figures for bigger actions. This lets me play the big battles and collect a small force for skirmish games like Sharp Practice in 28s!
I bought these rules and, just as Altar of Freedom, these are a real plessure to play with. Your contribution to this hobby is awesome. Only downside is that you've inspired me to collect and paint an army for this periode :-).
Well this convinced me to go to your site and place an order for the rulebook. Especially if it helps both Little Wars and Battlefield Trust. Great job guys on both the Brandywine video and the rulebook!
Thanks guys! These sound like easy-to-play, quick rules to learn that remind me a bit of the old ACW "Rally 'round the Flag" rules from Heritage many years ago. I, too, have moved towards 10mm (and smaller) over the years for all of my figures -- ACW, WWI, WWII, Napoleonic, Medieval, etc. I keep a few 28mm WWII for skirmish games, but when you look at building a larger army for cheaper, faster turn-around on the paint table, more table space to play larger games, and an abundance of terrain and buildings (N scale), 10mm or smaller (6mm is my other go-to) it just makes sense.
Simple rules yet comprehensive. I would say these rules are going to get very popular very quickly. I mean how many people can you dragoon in to playing their first game with thick rule books like Black Powder or General de Arme? Expanding these to cover other periods would be a boon for war gaming (napoleonic first :hint:). Outstanding work and extra kudos for sharing the proceeds. Will be ordering soon!
Agreed, David. Guys here are 20+ year gaming veterans and we enjoy General d'Armee, but honestly, I can't imagine a new player opening a book like that and making it too far. 4 pages feels more attainable for new gamers (and frankly, as experienced players we've had a blast with the 4-pager too!).
@@LittleWarsTV What I think is truly ingenious is the mechanic you have created for retreating units and the "contagion" effect it has on other units causing morale cascades. This fundamental part of all battles has been ignored until now. Games will never be the same nor should they be.
As a tabletop wargamer who started with Warhammer 40k, I never had an interest in historical gaming mainly due to the overcomplicated rules. I really glad this video was recommended by UA-cam; I'm definitely going to give this ruleset a try! I don't own any models in this scale BUT that's nothing my 3d/Resin printer can't fix 😉 Great review of the rules, thanks for the upload!
We wanted to build the system around a consistent "to hit" number that applied in all cases. Playing a huge battle like Brandywine with historians from the Trust guided a lot of the design decisions that went into this.
@@LittleWarsTV it was a fantastic idea , as I try to get non war gamers to play my wife and other family members to play all I am having to tell them is 5-6 that is it.
This one so good! I was hoping someone would also explain Fistful of Tow 3. Couple of interesting rulebook didnt have that much of a propper game explanation sadly. Would be great if there always a simple playguide so people can share it to newcomer easily. Anyway great video as always!
Thanks for this comment. FFT3 is a club favorite and we could certainly do a "Let's Play" to illustrate how it works. The rule book is HUGE, but it's mostly army lists and the actual core game is maybe 10-15 pages.
Have a look on my YT channel I have a full set of tutorial FFOT3 videos. Look for the rules briefings the rest are AAR reports from a couple of recent games.
I just order some 10mm British. Currently finishing off a 28mm British Peninsula army for my Napoleonics! I think I will pick a copy of these rules up as I love the differences each game gives with the rules!
On a similar line these would work well for Seven Years War probably, I mean it was on a couple of decades previous...making the army lists could be interesting though lol So how about it Little Wars?? I mean it is your fault that I have just bought the rules and the extra scenario book! lol
Great video. I usually only play small scale warband scale games but found this very interesting. The DMZ and leader star systems seem to be simple and intuitive.
Just played my first game, and love the rules for their simplicity. I have a question though, how do you treat artillery in a melee? Going to order 10mm Pendraken minis very soon.
I donate monthly to American Battlefields Trust and delighted that you give part of the proceeds of sales to that fine organization. I don't play AWI, at least not yet, but I will buy a copy of your rules mainly to support this endeavor and perhaps dip my toe into this era of gaming.
Another great video, thanks, guys! I have ordered my hard copy, and will doubtless find an excuse to order the scenario book as well. The 10mm figures look great, but I'm going 2mm.
Amazing video as always guys and soooo looking forward to testing the rules:D even found out about the army deals of pendraken, so maybe directly starting with the American and British army deal. Btw how about a few more Modell Reviews, i would rly like to start smaller scales but I'm overwhelmed by all the productions. So maybe a video about different 10mm and 15 mm companies?:))) Would rly appreciate it
I will be picking up this rules system. It's a lot of the type of mechanics I like without too much overhead. I would love to see a video about how the Brandywine table was made and where the terrain pieces were sourced from.
We are all about low overhead here! The Brandywine table was made using the same techniques as our Gettysburg board (there's a video tutorial on this channel!), but instead of using a flat green felt, we used plush felt (teddy bear fur).
@@LittleWarsTV Thanks! I'll check that video out. Was the teddy bear fur that color or did you dust it with some grass colored paint from a rattle can or airbrush?
@@joesturn7740 It was lightly sprayed with olive green and in the areas of forest we sprayed it again with a mid-tone brown just to darken those patches. It's very easy to over-spray so you want to go pretty light!
I enjoyed the run through. 10mm will be the figure scale for any periods that I currently no, or only a few figures. Like ACW or AWI or possibly 1815 but I like my AB Peninsula Brits. But my next project looks like Jena/Austadt. And also Colonel Kornbergs’ joining the Elector of Isembad, in his struggle against the Imperial Duchy of Grunhalberg. 🙂. Lots of painting as have to supply both SYW Prussians and Austrians and French and Brits. 18mm Eureka look great.
Very good! It combines all the things that go wrong into DMZ points. So whatever you as a player does it comes out as a base loss in the long run unless you reform and regroup. Beats adding up men killed on a roster sheet. It must speed up the game considerably.
Great run through - the rules look really interesting. Love that you have gone Fire then Move. Produces an interesting dynamic compared to Move then Fire 👍.
@@LittleWarsTV agreed! I like the look of the Adler range. I also think it would be easy to mod this for Napoleonics, change a base into a battalion/double squadron, and manoeuvre by the brigade instead of the regiment. Perhaps have commanders represented at the army and corps level. Some more modifiers for the paper/scissors/rock of the 3 arms and boom.
Love the Pendraken plug. I decided to try their ACW starter sets and now have a ton of figures I need to finish for ACW, Franco-Prussian War and ancients... 10mm is such a great middle ground between the mass feel of 6mm and the detail of 15s. So easy to paint.
We have some of the other ranges for medieval eras and Korea so when we decided to make the jump into big battle AWI Pendraken was the club choice. They are lovely figures, no question. We should have a painting tutorial on them in the future.
Damn it. I do NOT need another scale. But I must admit they do look nice and have the advantage of being able to be still mounted as individual figures without the headache of needing tweezers to mount in formations on stands. Sigh, since AWI is a period of interest I have little invested in at this level of game, I will likely find some Pendraken figures taking up a spot in the painting queue in the future.
Bought the pdf yesterday as my first historical minis game, Tks for a simple rule set that even a novice like me can pick up. One question I didn’t see in the FAQ: how does melee against guns work? Do they roll one dice for having one base? They still get the bonus for “outclassing” the enemy?
Absolutely correct! They have one base for mass (and thus one die, because you always get a minimum of one) and all the other modifiers do still apply. So a veteran, well drilled gun WILL get class bonuses against a regiment of green militia, for instance.
Reminds me in many ways of Warhammer (the phases, command points, a "hasty volley" basically being Overwatch) but with a lot of simplification and nice changes. This might be what gets me into historical wargaming.
I picked up the rules and the scenario book. While each scenario lists the number of commander, infantry, cavalry, and artillery bases required, it would be nice to have a further breakdown. For example, how many of those infantry bases are militia/loyalists (presumably in civilian clothes), or skirmishers (possibly uniformed or not). In addition, how many of the bases are French (for the Americans) or Hessian (for the British).
Hi all. I have just completed 2 games of Live Free or Die this week with a relative and I am amazed at how a 4 page ruleset can conjure up such interesting tactical decisions! We found that cavalry could really make a dramatic impact escpecially against inferior troops and artillery. I have decided that closing fire can be done by units eligible onto the path of the charge to the point of contact. I just wondered if that was how you guys do it anyway? Well done on a great set of rules.
Looks great! Sounds like a modernized/actually playable version of the old Loose Files and the American Scramble rules? For small battles I could see adding dicing for movement back in.
Just to clarify: A 1st Class unit is a higher morale class than 2nd, 3rd & 4th Class units? The rules look great - the older I get, the simpler I like them.
Just bought both books, looks great so far. Hoping to use with 28mm figures on a big table. I have a couple of rules questions, do you guys have a forum or facebook prescence or can I ask them here? Briefly, costs for charging, is that extra PER unit or multiple charging units if they are within 3". In the video you say defenders get closing fire whether the chargers contact or not, but in the rules it says "CLOSING FIRE Charges that successfully reach their target are immediately subject to closing fire." Which makes it sound like if you don't make contact you don't suffer closing fire. Would the defenders then have the option to volley fire later in the turn? Anyway, looking forward to trying them out, cheers.
Those are both great questions. Hopefully you'll get a more official answer, but our group has been treating the closing fire to mean that the charging unit must reach the target to come under closing fire from the charged unit and supporting units. So the defending unit would be able to volley fire if the charging unit fails to reach them. As for the first question, that is a great question, as a primarily British Army Player at the moment I am eager to hear the answer to see if I can pull off some larger scale British Bayonet charges!
@@thomaswilliams2723 I've had some more answers to this (there is a dedicated Facebook group for the rules, worth checking out). So units that are charging cannot be ordered as a group, they must be paid for individually PLUS it costs an EXTRA 2 or 3 CP to declare a 'Charge' or a 'Bayonet Charge' for each unit. So per unit, to declare a 'Charge' will cost 3CP, and to declare a 'Bayonet Charge' will cost 4CP.
@@dukesix3080 thanks for the quick response. That actually explains a lot. Might help reduce the number of insanely inaccurate charges people try to pull off in my seven years war game 😂
Thanks guys, another great video. Any thoughts on adapting the rules to the Seven Years War or at least the French and Indian War component of that conflict?
I'm not too far from historic Camden and they've recently expanded the historic center and wondered if introducing this game as an exhibit or as a special event would peak some interest of historians, hobbyists and wargamers in the community?
Always on the lookout for THE set of AWI rules. Tried LFAAS; wasn't that enamored, but maybe the changes you've made for LFOD will make it more appealing (my latest try at AWI was using Rebels & Patriots, but treating units as battalions/regiments; worked ok...). My AWI stuff is 25/28mm on 20mm x 40mm bases for infantry (2 figs), so it does worry me a little LFOD will look too congested - just have to see. I have to admit to one complaint: I always like to try two scenarios for new AWI rules: Bunker Hill and Cowpens. Disappointed Cowpens is not one of the provided scenarios! At least the scenario book has Guilford Courthouse to use as a starting point to do Cowpens, though I'm trying to wrap my head around Tarleton's Dragoons being rated 1st Class...
How do you determine leader ratings? I would like to fight other battles with it but don't know how to rate generals. I also posted this question on your website.
I have Hannibal and Altar of Freedom, and will buy Live Free or Die also. Please please please make the scenario books in print, not just pdf. Please. And thank you.
Wow that was really impressive, and although I do not game the revolutionary war, I am going to go ahead and purchase both pdf's. But.....as the previous commentator asked are you going to do something similar with Napoleonic's or ACW? I play GdA and Pickett's Charge which I think are great rulesets but for a quick game with unexperienced players this ruleset would be ideal because of it's apparent simplicity.
This is absolutely something we are considering, YES. No immediate plans in the works, but in particular for next year we'd like to develop another free, quick game (as we did for Ravenfeast). And doing something for ACW or Napoleonics is under discussion for that.
Go for 10mm metals. You'll be glad you did. Units that look like units, great variety by now (I have close on 100 armies) uniform poses for regulars, storage is MUCH easier, they hold paint better, and if you use combined arms forces (as I do for the War of Northern Aggression, as my former Dixie girlfriend always called it), they don't look totally ridiculous supported by 1:1200 ships on a river.
This looks like a pretty cool system would the Trenton campaign be something that can be played with this rule set or is that a different scale of conflict than what these rules represent
Interesting rule system, I must say. Although I'm not overly interested in some colonial rabble-rousing and uprising ( :p ), any chance we'll get it ported over to another war? (Or if you have any suggestions for other wars it could work with)
If a unit is in a melee and then retreats and the full movement takes them off the board... are they gone for good or do they stop at the edge of the table? In my Princeton play through the 1st Maryland suffered a failed charge at a British Skirmish line, then got hit twice by the 16th Light Dragoons. Once in the side and then again on the retreat. They were driven off the table. I don't see in the rules what happens if the full movement takes them off the table? Hugh Mercer was having a really bad day. Got a light wound and nearly got hit again. Somehow he survived!
Hello there! I am secretly assembling the armies and terrain for Live Free or Die for my son's 10th birthday party. A very simple question: what do the lines that snake across the battle maps mean? Is that elevation? Thank you!
I would only advise changing the measurements if your bases are a lot smaller. The actual size of the miniatures is not relevant--the size of your BASING would be. Ours are on 1" squares and if your figures are on anything close to that, you should keep the same distances. All the scenarios are playable on a standard 6'x4' tabletop.
School teachers have organized a club and made a great game, now issue videos on UA-cam and make sales through their website. Nothing like that ever happened in my country. Feels like another planet to me. I love the way game looks, but I guess it takes too much time, friends and physical effort to play. I wish there was a computer version. I'll probably even try to code it myself. I originally went down to comment, that in the same epoch, in Europe buyonet attacks were quite ubiqutous, especially performed by famous russian generals. You also have that feature in your game, that only british can launch it.
Cool review, I am from Germany, actually from Hessen, a direct grand grand grand son of one of the Hessen fought in America , greetings from Darmstadt Hessen, Germany 🇩🇪
Das ist sehr interessant! Sehr schön. Grüßen aus Illinois USA ;)
An excellent run-through of the rules. The best rules are often the simplest and these look amazing.
Shorter is better! That's the general rule of thumb around here!
You guys made me interested in miniatures and wargaming and it's so fun!
That's awesome to hear, truly! Bringing more players into this awesome hobby is the #1 reason we started making videos.
@@LittleWarsTV It's working
You guys need to roadtrip down to NC for a Guilford Courthouse wargame. Local craft beer on me! Bring the Battlefield Trust guys too!
North Cackalacky! w00t, you can introduce those Pennsylvania boys to some Southern hospitality, East Carolina BBQ, a bowl of Brunswick stew, and some hushpuppys. Oh and introduce them to some decent breakfast food too, grits, eggs, sausage, and biscuits. Scrapple and Toast is not people food. They can wash all this down with some sweet tea!
@@mrgunn2726 Shoot they could do Guilford, Cowpens and King's Mountain Road tour!
I'm sold. Simple, rememberable, and fun. The rules also feel right for the period.
Seems like reasonably simple mechanics to learn. I never liked overly complicated rule sets that lead into long discussions and wasted time with setup and chaotic turns. The drama should always be on the board, not in interpretations.
The FM podcast for these rules was so helpful. It helped me altar some complex rules to extremely playable rules, and I was able to get my friends interested in miniature wargames. Thanks again
The podcast is still going! It's shaping up to be 6 parts in total.
Ordered the rules and a Pendraken starter army! I’m glad I found this when I did, was contemplating getting into 28mm AWI but was discouraged by the number of figures for bigger actions. This lets me play the big battles and collect a small force for skirmish games like Sharp Practice in 28s!
I bought these rules and, just as Altar of Freedom, these are a real plessure to play with. Your contribution to this hobby is awesome. Only downside is that you've inspired me to collect and paint an army for this periode :-).
Ah yes, the curse of every miniature wargamer! Too many wars to fight!
Well this convinced me to go to your site and place an order for the rulebook. Especially if it helps both Little Wars and Battlefield Trust. Great job guys on both the Brandywine video and the rulebook!
Thank you Mike! We are excited to work with them and continue supporting the Trust however we can!
Thanks guys! These sound like easy-to-play, quick rules to learn that remind me a bit of the old ACW "Rally 'round the Flag" rules from Heritage many years ago. I, too, have moved towards 10mm (and smaller) over the years for all of my figures -- ACW, WWI, WWII, Napoleonic, Medieval, etc. I keep a few 28mm WWII for skirmish games, but when you look at building a larger army for cheaper, faster turn-around on the paint table, more table space to play larger games, and an abundance of terrain and buildings (N scale), 10mm or smaller (6mm is my other go-to) it just makes sense.
Simple rules yet comprehensive. I would say these rules are going to get very popular very quickly. I mean how many people can you dragoon in to playing their first game with thick rule books like Black Powder or General de Arme? Expanding these to cover other periods would be a boon for war gaming (napoleonic first :hint:). Outstanding work and extra kudos for sharing the proceeds. Will be ordering soon!
Agreed, David. Guys here are 20+ year gaming veterans and we enjoy General d'Armee, but honestly, I can't imagine a new player opening a book like that and making it too far. 4 pages feels more attainable for new gamers (and frankly, as experienced players we've had a blast with the 4-pager too!).
@@LittleWarsTV What I think is truly ingenious is the mechanic you have created for retreating units and the "contagion" effect it has on other units causing morale cascades. This fundamental part of all battles has been ignored until now. Games will never be the same nor should they be.
As a tabletop wargamer who started with Warhammer 40k, I never had an interest in historical gaming mainly due to the overcomplicated rules. I really glad this video was recommended by UA-cam; I'm definitely going to give this ruleset a try!
I don't own any models in this scale BUT that's nothing my 3d/Resin printer can't fix 😉
Great review of the rules, thanks for the upload!
Glad to see 10mm getting some play and appreciation here. Pendraken does good work with only a few flubs that I’ve seen.
We've been very happy with their ranges over the years. I have three Pendraken armies myself and they are top notch.
Very good video and the melee system works well and the constant D6 and number just tell a new player roll 5-6 all day long and that’s all
These guys are geniuses!
We wanted to build the system around a consistent "to hit" number that applied in all cases. Playing a huge battle like Brandywine with historians from the Trust guided a lot of the design decisions that went into this.
@@LittleWarsTV it was a fantastic idea , as I try to get non war gamers to play my wife and other family members to play all I am having to tell them is 5-6 that is it.
Bought the rules and the Scens because they are good and I support Battlefield Trust and the channel.
A great supplement to the rulebook. Thanks for making this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This one so good! I was hoping someone would also explain Fistful of Tow 3. Couple of interesting rulebook didnt have that much of a propper game explanation sadly. Would be great if there always a simple playguide so people can share it to newcomer easily. Anyway great video as always!
I second this.
Thanks for this comment. FFT3 is a club favorite and we could certainly do a "Let's Play" to illustrate how it works. The rule book is HUGE, but it's mostly army lists and the actual core game is maybe 10-15 pages.
Have a look on my YT channel I have a full set of tutorial FFOT3 videos. Look for the rules briefings the rest are AAR reports from a couple of recent games.
Just ordered my copy and always enjoy your content
gotta love Pendraken 10mm, I've got loads I'm working on for a Battle of Hastings replay :-)
I like the format of showing the game in play and another video showing you how to play the game through the rules
Great to hear! This is something we're considering doing more often for future games.
Fantastic looking games. Big fan of Piquet rules but will try these out.
I just order some 10mm British. Currently finishing off a 28mm British Peninsula army for my Napoleonics! I think I will pick a copy of these rules up as I love the differences each game gives with the rules!
Loved this paired up with your FM radio shows on how you developed the rules!
I'm moving some of my armies to 10mm. Really good stuff! Might need to do AWI now.
nice rules, is there a Napoleonic version of these?
I was having something of the same thoughts. As presented, I think the rules would work fine for campaigns from about 1740 to 1840 or so.
On a similar line these would work well for Seven Years War probably, I mean it was on a couple of decades previous...making the army lists could be interesting though lol
So how about it Little Wars?? I mean it is your fault that I have just bought the rules and the extra scenario book! lol
Right, putting together my Pendraken order now!
Fantastic figures. A bunch of us here have Pendrakens for multiple periods.
Great video. I usually only play small scale warband scale games but found this very interesting. The DMZ and leader star systems seem to be simple and intuitive.
Just played my first game, and love the rules for their simplicity. I have a question though, how do you treat artillery in a melee? Going to order 10mm Pendraken minis very soon.
I donate monthly to American Battlefields Trust and delighted that you give part of the proceeds of sales to that fine organization. I don't play AWI, at least not yet, but I will buy a copy of your rules mainly to support this endeavor and perhaps dip my toe into this era of gaming.
Hopefully, at 4 pages, we might tempt you to the dark side!
Another great video, thanks, guys! I have ordered my hard copy, and will doubtless find an excuse to order the scenario book as well. The 10mm figures look great, but I'm going 2mm.
I'm painting up some 2mm figures now for another era of history, but LFoD will work in just about any scale you want!
Thanks, very helpful vid. I have a hard copy of the rules plus scenarios and it is a lovely package, thank you.
Amazing video as always guys and soooo looking forward to testing the rules:D even found out about the army deals of pendraken, so maybe directly starting with the American and British army deal. Btw how about a few more Modell Reviews, i would rly like to start smaller scales but I'm overwhelmed by all the productions. So maybe a video about different 10mm and 15 mm companies?:))) Would rly appreciate it
I will be picking up this rules system. It's a lot of the type of mechanics I like without too much overhead.
I would love to see a video about how the Brandywine table was made and where the terrain pieces were sourced from.
We are all about low overhead here! The Brandywine table was made using the same techniques as our Gettysburg board (there's a video tutorial on this channel!), but instead of using a flat green felt, we used plush felt (teddy bear fur).
@@LittleWarsTV Thanks! I'll check that video out. Was the teddy bear fur that color or did you dust it with some grass colored paint from a rattle can or airbrush?
@@joesturn7740 It was lightly sprayed with olive green and in the areas of forest we sprayed it again with a mid-tone brown just to darken those patches. It's very easy to over-spray so you want to go pretty light!
Fantastic set of rules well worth the money
I enjoyed the run through. 10mm will be the figure scale for any periods that I currently no, or only a few figures. Like ACW or AWI or possibly 1815 but I like my AB Peninsula Brits. But my next project looks like Jena/Austadt.
And also Colonel Kornbergs’ joining the Elector of
Isembad, in his struggle against the Imperial Duchy of Grunhalberg. 🙂. Lots of painting as have to supply both SYW Prussians and Austrians and French and Brits. 18mm Eureka look great.
Great play through of the rules. I will be checking them out. You guys always impress.
Great job guys and congrats on a new rule set.
Very good! It combines all the things that go wrong into DMZ points. So whatever you as a player does it comes out as a base loss in the long run unless you reform and regroup. Beats adding up men killed on a roster sheet. It must speed up the game considerably.
It's pretty slick--kudos to Andy Callan's original 1980s design on this! We love it.
A great initiative supporting the ABT. The rules look good, hope the postage to Merry Olde England isn’t too horrific.
Well constructed, simple and effective system well done
All credit to Andy Callan and the original Loose Files & American Scramble for providing the initial inspiration!
Loving the game! We have a quick question, can regiments in column formation charge?
Excellent walk through. Seems like a really cool ruleset.
Great run through - the rules look really interesting. Love that you have gone Fire then Move. Produces an interesting dynamic compared to Move then Fire 👍.
I’ve bought the pdf and I’m very pleased. I want to do this in 6mm.
You can't go wrong with 6mm!
@@LittleWarsTV agreed! I like the look of the Adler range. I also think it would be easy to mod this for Napoleonics, change a base into a battalion/double squadron, and manoeuvre by the brigade instead of the regiment. Perhaps have commanders represented at the army and corps level. Some more modifiers for the paper/scissors/rock of the 3 arms and boom.
This is great! I'll be picking up a copy of these rules for my club!
Love the Pendraken plug. I decided to try their ACW starter sets and now have a ton of figures I need to finish for ACW, Franco-Prussian War and ancients... 10mm is such a great middle ground between the mass feel of 6mm and the detail of 15s. So easy to paint.
We have some of the other ranges for medieval eras and Korea so when we decided to make the jump into big battle AWI Pendraken was the club choice. They are lovely figures, no question. We should have a painting tutorial on them in the future.
Damn it. I do NOT need another scale. But I must admit they do look nice and have the advantage of being able to be still mounted as individual figures without the headache of needing tweezers to mount in formations on stands. Sigh, since AWI is a period of interest I have little invested in at this level of game, I will likely find some Pendraken figures taking up a spot in the painting queue in the future.
Bought the pdf yesterday as my first historical minis game, Tks for a simple rule set that even a novice like me can pick up. One question I didn’t see in the FAQ: how does melee against guns work? Do they roll one dice for having one base? They still get the bonus for “outclassing” the enemy?
Absolutely correct! They have one base for mass (and thus one die, because you always get a minimum of one) and all the other modifiers do still apply. So a veteran, well drilled gun WILL get class bonuses against a regiment of green militia, for instance.
Reminds me in many ways of Warhammer (the phases, command points, a "hasty volley" basically being Overwatch) but with a lot of simplification and nice changes. This might be what gets me into historical wargaming.
I like simplicity. Then you concentrate on tactic. Thank you for the video
I picked up the rules and the scenario book. While each scenario lists the number of commander, infantry, cavalry, and artillery bases required, it would be nice to have a further breakdown. For example, how many of those infantry bases are militia/loyalists (presumably in civilian clothes), or skirmishers (possibly uniformed or not). In addition, how many of the bases are French (for the Americans) or Hessian (for the British).
Looks fun. I am more into SYW/French Indian War/War of Conquest (dependant on where you are from), but the system seems simple and sound.
Hi all.
I have just completed 2 games of Live Free or Die this week with a relative and I am amazed at how a 4 page ruleset can conjure up such interesting tactical decisions!
We found that cavalry could really make a dramatic impact escpecially against inferior troops and artillery.
I have decided that closing fire can be done by units eligible onto the path of the charge to the point of contact. I just wondered if that was how you guys do it anyway?
Well done on a great set of rules.
I need to find people in Sweden to play this game with!! Looks so much fun.
Looks great! Sounds like a modernized/actually playable version of the old Loose Files and the American Scramble rules? For small battles I could see adding dicing for movement back in.
Just to clarify: A 1st Class unit is a higher morale class than 2nd, 3rd & 4th Class units? The rules look great - the older I get, the simpler I like them.
Hey guys, great channel. I was wondering if you had any more information on the board you created for the battle of trenton
Great run through guys👍🏻😊
Great job guys, I will be ordering this as soon as I get back. Any chance for ACW and Napoleon? Also, for us heretics, a point system?
Ah, I just read your philosophy. 😭
Just bought both books, looks great so far. Hoping to use with 28mm figures on a big table.
I have a couple of rules questions, do you guys have a forum or facebook prescence or can I ask them here?
Briefly, costs for charging, is that extra PER unit or multiple charging units if they are within 3".
In the video you say defenders get closing fire whether the chargers contact or not, but in the rules it says
"CLOSING FIRE Charges that successfully reach their target are immediately subject to closing fire."
Which makes it sound like if you don't make contact you don't suffer closing fire. Would the defenders then have the option to volley fire later in the turn?
Anyway, looking forward to trying them out, cheers.
Those are both great questions. Hopefully you'll get a more official answer, but our group has been treating the closing fire to mean that the charging unit must reach the target to come under closing fire from the charged unit and supporting units. So the defending unit would be able to volley fire if the charging unit fails to reach them. As for the first question, that is a great question, as a primarily British Army Player at the moment I am eager to hear the answer to see if I can pull off some larger scale British Bayonet charges!
I have the same questions. I'm very confused about the meaning of the cost of charges being cumulative
@@thomaswilliams2723 I've had some more answers to this (there is a dedicated Facebook group for the rules, worth checking out).
So units that are charging cannot be ordered as a group, they must be paid for individually PLUS it costs an EXTRA 2 or 3 CP to declare a 'Charge' or a 'Bayonet Charge' for each unit.
So per unit, to declare a 'Charge' will cost 3CP, and to declare a 'Bayonet Charge' will cost 4CP.
@@dukesix3080 thanks for the quick response. That actually explains a lot. Might help reduce the number of insanely inaccurate charges people try to pull off in my seven years war game 😂
Reminds me of Warmaster.
I think ill pick up a copy! Thanks for the overview :-)
Thanks guys, another great video. Any thoughts on adapting the rules to the Seven Years War or at least the French and Indian War component of that conflict?
I'm not too far from historic Camden and they've recently expanded the historic center and wondered if introducing this game as an exhibit or as a special event would peak some interest of historians, hobbyists and wargamers in the community?
Cool rules set looks fun.
Thanks for this, very helpful.
This is a beautiful set of rules even an idiot like me can understand these.
Hi. Very interesting. I had to base (paint before) my minis. Question about basing? In your demo, what are the size of your bases?
1” squares!
@@LittleWarsTV Thanks
Always on the lookout for THE set of AWI rules. Tried LFAAS; wasn't that enamored, but maybe the changes you've made for LFOD will make it more appealing (my latest try at AWI was using Rebels & Patriots, but treating units as battalions/regiments; worked ok...). My AWI stuff is 25/28mm on 20mm x 40mm bases for infantry (2 figs), so it does worry me a little LFOD will look too congested - just have to see. I have to admit to one complaint: I always like to try two scenarios for new AWI rules: Bunker Hill and Cowpens. Disappointed Cowpens is not one of the provided scenarios! At least the scenario book has Guilford Courthouse to use as a starting point to do Cowpens, though I'm trying to wrap my head around Tarleton's Dragoons being rated 1st Class...
How do you determine leader ratings? I would like to fight other battles with it but don't know how to rate generals. I also posted this question on your website.
I’m still wondering - what is the velvety-type material you are using for all the fields and on your board?
We use this all the time for gaming--it's called "plush felt" or we often call it teddy bear fur (no bears were harmed in the filming of this video).
@@LittleWarsTV Thanks so much!!
I have Hannibal and Altar of Freedom, and will buy Live Free or Die also.
Please please please make the scenario books in print, not just pdf. Please.
And thank you.
Are you planning an expansion for the French & Indian War?
Are there good comprehensive books on both conflicts?
Wow that was really impressive, and although I do not game the revolutionary war, I am going to go ahead and purchase both pdf's. But.....as the previous commentator asked are you going to do something similar with Napoleonic's or ACW? I play GdA and Pickett's Charge which I think are great rulesets but for a quick game with unexperienced players this ruleset would be ideal because of it's apparent simplicity.
This is absolutely something we are considering, YES. No immediate plans in the works, but in particular for next year we'd like to develop another free, quick game (as we did for Ravenfeast). And doing something for ACW or Napoleonics is under discussion for that.
Great video, thanks!
Nice! Where do I get one of those Little Wars caps?
Pertaining to figures/cost: You also could buy Airfix or other 1/72 scale plastic figures for much less money and build a huge army quickly.
Go for 10mm metals. You'll be glad you did. Units that look like units, great variety by now (I have close on 100 armies) uniform poses for regulars, storage is MUCH easier, they hold paint better, and if you use combined arms forces (as I do for the War of Northern Aggression, as my former Dixie girlfriend always called it), they don't look totally ridiculous supported by 1:1200 ships on a river.
nice work - lokking for game in 6-10mm.
A lot of nice concepts there - so I ordered a copy :D (not even my 'period of interest'!)
This looks like a pretty cool system would the Trenton campaign be something that can be played with this rule set or is that a different scale of conflict than what these rules represent
Interesting rule system, I must say. Although I'm not overly interested in some colonial rabble-rousing and uprising ( :p ), any chance we'll get it ported over to another war? (Or if you have any suggestions for other wars it could work with)
Certainly war of 1812 very easily and the mechanics would probably work well for 7 Years War.
I'm working on using these as a basis for Napoleonic warfare. I think I have the basics but would love suggestions/collaborating with someone.
If a unit is in a melee and then retreats and the full movement takes them off the board... are they gone for good or do they stop at the edge of the table? In my Princeton play through the 1st Maryland suffered a failed charge at a British Skirmish line, then got hit twice by the 16th Light Dragoons. Once in the side and then again on the retreat. They were driven off the table. I don't see in the rules what happens if the full movement takes them off the table?
Hugh Mercer was having a really bad day. Got a light wound and nearly got hit again. Somehow he survived!
Any plans for an ACW supplement?
What does it mean on the command point table that one must still pay to move after a charge? Does a single regiment not just charge for 2 cp flat?
Yes it does--but you do still have to pay for movement.
Excellent
Would this work for the War of 1812?
Most certainly!
@@LittleWarsTV Presumably some minor amendments needed?
Just downloaded the rules, like the look of them, I think they will form the basis for a good Seven Years War set.........
Yeah, the Brandywine scenario was awesome!
can you tell me who does your buildings, it was mentioned in 1 of your games but i missed it and couldnt get back to it.
For our AWI games we use a lot of Levan buildings, but also Total Battle Miniatures.
Looks good fun.
Will there be a British Version with DMS and reference to DMS marker for DemoraliSed 😉?
We won the war. Remember that!
@@LittleWarsTV "won" 😉
Could you please play operation market garden its my favourite
Hello there! I am secretly assembling the armies and terrain for Live Free or Die for my son's 10th birthday party. A very simple question: what do the lines that snake across the battle maps mean? Is that elevation? Thank you!
Those are hills yes!
At 9:50 you're talking about charges at the beginning of the game or the beginning of the turn? (You said "game" so I'm guessing you misspoke?)
Correct, sir! Charges are issued and made early in the TURN and not resolved until near the end.
When is a Regiment removed from game? If I got one base left, is it still usable?
Would you make any modifications for playing this in 2mm?
Use cm instead of inches?
Also, what's the play space recommended for 6mm and 2mm?
I would only advise changing the measurements if your bases are a lot smaller. The actual size of the miniatures is not relevant--the size of your BASING would be. Ours are on 1" squares and if your figures are on anything close to that, you should keep the same distances. All the scenarios are playable on a standard 6'x4' tabletop.
Where did you get the tress from for this video? They're about the size I need for my wargaming at home.
Our trees are from Woodland Scenics! They make several scales. These are mostly the 1"-3" small size trees, with a few 4" to 6".
@@LittleWarsTV thanks. I thought they were, love the videos and keep up the great work.
Just bought the rules based on this video.
Is that "Old 1812" playing as background music?
Old Fuss and Feathers, yes!
Does these rules work with ACW or Napoleonic periods?
School teachers have organized a club and made a great game, now issue videos on UA-cam and make sales through their website. Nothing like that ever happened in my country. Feels like another planet to me.
I love the way game looks, but I guess it takes too much time, friends and physical effort to play. I wish there was a computer version.
I'll probably even try to code it myself.
I originally went down to comment, that in the same epoch, in Europe buyonet attacks were quite ubiqutous, especially performed by famous russian generals. You also have that feature in your game, that only british can launch it.
Excellent!