283 Small Block Chevy Tear Down! | How much DAMAGE??
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- Опубліковано 1 вер 2023
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#engine #hotrod #classic #truck
In this video I tear down a 283 SBC I picked up. I honestly thought this would be a smooth tear down... it was anything but that.
This is my attempt at an @I_Do_Cars style video. I watch this channel personally, didn't realize how intense the editing process is for a video like this!
I hope you enjoy! Don't forget to comment and subscribe!
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Note to self must remove fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod before removing cam 😉
He is real smart
You probably broke the rings when you removed them without taking the ridge off the cylinders. If it's from 1967 the ridge was most likely huge .
Real quick identification of the heads is that no 283 had heads with accessory bolt holes in the ends. You automatically know they aren't original.
I noticed an 883 casting number when he was turning over the heads those are not 283 heads and they wouldn't have assembly holes drilled in them you are correct
The can in the lifter valley, and the plugged hole behind it were part of the engine venting system used at the time. It's missing the draft tube (look it up). It was fairly common for people to mod these systems with a PCV valve in place of the draft tube.
64-68 283. Chevy started doing side motor mounts in 58. So one year only for the 283 without them (57). The 55-57 265 was front mount only as well. Those heads are from a newer engine, likely a 70's vintage, and likely with 76cc chambers. Large chambers and the small bore of a 283 are going to result in very, very low compression ratios.
Probably heads off a 305
@@larrywarner931476cc 350/400 heads on a flat-top 283 = approximately 7:1 cr = a DAWG!
Yes sir I put together a .060 over 283 (makes it a 292) with a forged crankshaft, Ansen rod bolts, 11 to 1 pop up pistons and an off road Z/28 cam along with a pair of 194 heads (327 fat plug heads) and a factory GM high rise and of course a Holley 4bbl with headers. I could Of twist that engine up to 7000 RPM with no fanfare. But of course when one is using such an engine for a daily driver and abusing it on weekends and such it doesn't get the mileage one would get from a milder engine but it sure ran good. That was going on fifty years ago when I was younger and dumber.
The only heads that really worked ok on these are 305 h.o. heads if you can locate them. You are correct an 882 head would yield a low ratio.
@@billywird sounds awesome!
The divider would be so you can use the manifold to your driving, single plane or dual plane intake. So you kind of have 2 options in one intake, street driving or high performance. The screw in the bottom looks to be just to receive that one part of the divider that sicks out to secure it better, but I'm not sure.
Very typical engine issues they rebuilt the 283 ran it without zinc in oil or cam break in done properly and it wiped the cam ate bearings and rings up. Get a set of bearings, rings, cam kit, cam bearings, and hone the piss out of it and then put valve seals in it and lap the valves (often overlooked) and u will have a tough little engine. It’s a strong engine like it is factory but if u want to have a little fun get a set of flat top pistons with shorter skirt (leave it current bore) hone the piss out of it put a corvette cam and dual 4 barrel or (personal favorite) 3 duces and that little dude will be fun. It will have good low end great mid and upper to around 6500-7000 maybe even 7500 rpm’s. There’s nothing like the sound of a sbc running at 7k and build the corvette replica it will do that constantly and forever if u keep oil in it. It will be a little loose by not boring but that’s a good thing much easier to break a fresh engine nobody ever tells anyone that I find out but I never hear of a old wore out sbc blowing up I hear of ones like apparently every guy who claims his rig has a 383 in it scattering after a handful of years but no miles to speak of. U keep oil in a sbc and drive it on the floor every time u get in it (1 or 2 quarts) per fill up. lol. The 283 probably run longer loose with just a old school (in frame rebuilt) will last forever. U can give Jesus a ride when he gets here. Lol. Good video young man. Insomnia is a bitch. Lol. Videos like yours help. Thanks.
God Bless
JM
CHECK THE CYLINDERS FOR TAPER, IF THEY JUST HONED THE CYLINDERS, PROBABLY TAPERED AND BROKE THE RINGS
Seeing the top rod shell beat up could be detonation. That can also crack cast rings. Or the ring broke hitting ridge on removal.
If it's got a bad ring groove at the top of the cylinders that can break the rings when you take them out
Early 283 heads have staggerd holes on the valve covers to bolt the valve covers to the heads... Later heads have bolts straight across from eachother...
It is possible that when they put the 4 barrel carb on and ran it hard, the engine pistons hit the ring ridge and breaks. seen it before. trying to make an old beater go to fast.
The bearings actually look normal for a mid 60s 283. The engine design originally came with a canister filter. It looks like it has had an aftermarket screw on oil filter adapter. The filtration wasn't the greatest to start with.
Lets get a date off of the back of the bearings.
Youd be better off building the 0010 350 block as thay were more readily available with better nickel content.
When you pop those piston and rod assemblies out you should put bolt protectors on the connecting rod bolts as when you drag the threads of the connecting rod bolts across the rod journal on the crankshaft it can scratch the journal and it will require polishing the journal at minimum and could require a regrinding of the journal. It does not seem like much but when a journal is hit or scratched it raises the metal somewhat and can cause bearing failure if not corrected. If this engine block is not cracked or has been run hot it is reusable. This engine has obviously been run hard and that pretty much tells the story on those broken rings, and also the ring end gap could have been too tight.
You've got to take the fuel pump off too the get the cam out and the rod
Can you see the numbers stamped into the little flat spot on the block just forward of the right head? It may give you the exact original installation information for this block.
outstanding! very informative
Fuel pump is what was keeping the cam from coming right out
Yup, totally forgot to pull it!
@@diveingarage I did that on my ford Ranger a couple years ago. Took me 30 minutes to figure it out 😂🤣
The cam is flat and the lifter is not suppose to be flat, the bottom of lifter is suppose to be arched high in the center so lifter can spin on the cam with the push rod spinning when it is running to keep from going flat...
That block has an oil filter addapter on it, early 283-327's had a long oil canster on it that took a #141 oil filter for the canster with a o-ring...
Yes! The 283 video has dropped!
You’re doing great! I’d build that puppy up!
Too painful to watch as machinists tore down hundreds of motors. By the way never never ever ever ever ever use a ridge reamer on an engine to get the Pistons out, you just have to jiggle the Pistons and they will come out.
obviously never taken apart a small block chevy before...
He built one about 6 months ago smart one, stop being a hater for an honest mistake and get lost.
The parting.line on the crank tells you if it is a steel crank or not...
Rebore, hone and install a Kit of affordable claimer Pistons and King bearings (if crank is still fine) and a good new Elgin Pro Stock cam oild pump still will be finde, never had a bad original good old Melling/GM pump!
Use a melling m55a higher pressure oil pump, will not drain oil from pan at higher rpm.
@@kevinwestmoreland2099 I always use NOS NAPA oil pumps (Balcamp brand) or Muskegon NOS , they are good for any street chevy (Made by Melling during the 1970s) even if the engine slightly hotrodded. Mostly even the old original used Chevy pumps from the engine are o.k. after cleaning. With new Melling pumps (HV/HO etc) there can happen a case crack on the pump body because they are now made in Mexico and the cast is thinner compared to the 1970s. They cheapened out their production and QC is non existent any more.
@@Schlipperschlopper I say use a m55a as I have one on a modified 350 sbc for over 10 years with no problems. On a stock 283, a standard oil pump is used.
HOw much lip was on the left bank? To me looks like engine had gotten very hot and my have run low or out of oil causing rings to seize. Will need to run checks on all cylinders to see if they experiencee heat damage.
Sir that 283 was use on a oval track short run beat hard
Someone fitted new rings,without sorting out the top wear ridge,or fitting step rings.
I’ve pulled a couple apart with a whole bank of broken ring lands on the piston but never a whole bank of broken rings
The Heads are wrong for the year...earlier 283s never had heads with accessory head bolt holes..
Punch out to a 301, run 11 to 1 piston with solid lift cam and drop in an old 50's Chevy of your choice
Mmm, cast iron 283 crank.
If the 882 head on that 283 didn't tell you this engine was a disaster, Idk what will. And a standard m-55 oil pump is plenty for a stock or mild engine. A high volume oil pump will suck a stock oil pan dry at extended high rpms. That engine definitely had a hard life and that's why it has so much wear.
Clean it up send it out 10 over on the crank and boars or were it cleans up at .deak and aline hone . Clean up crank and rods ,new pistons .roller cam and lifters roller rockers ,double roller chain check over heads .. this is a vintage 283 block hook it up I'm pretty sure the 2 83's had a 4 inch bore , they also built 327 and 350s on a 283 block .great little motor .i would just shoot for 300hp nothing Radical easily achievable with a 283 Without breaking the bank and it will run like a sewing machine.
Build It.... To the best of your ability, do a blueprint build. I used to have a GM small block performance manual.
Cam and crank gears are wide and are made of steel on early engine, later ones went to a nylon cam gear and were narrow...
Fuel pump rod!
Turns single plane intake into duel plane intake
wow that piston ring was crazy!!!!
Right?!
Broke rings is from extreme spark knock or nitrous.
there were multiple problems with this engine. lets start with the flat cam. it was not a stuck lifter that caused it. flat tappet cams are great, but flat tappet cams require at least 1400 ppm ZDDP in the oil. modern off the shelf SN rated engine oils only have around 800ppm zddp. so, it was doomed no matter what was done to it. you need a special oil with High zddp content if you plan to run a flat tappet cam these days. AMS oil Z-rod, Brad Penn Grade 1, Lucas Oil Hot Rod and Classic all have Zddp levels above 1400ppm. there are a few others, but those are the most common. When the cam went flat, it flushed metal particle threw out the engine. and someone likes the orange can of death oil filters that don't filter very well. in fact, they are the worst filter on the market. So the particles got flushed threw out the engine and caused metal impregnation in some of the bearings and scuffs on the cranks. But that is not what caused the odd wear on the upper rod bearings in the rods. what caused the wear on the upper rod bearings and broken top rings was detonation. either cheap gas, or too much ignition timing, overheating can cause detonation too and can oil consumption at high rpm will cause it also. but this was most likely cheap gas and too much ignition timing. it could also have been excessive load and high rpm. doesn't really matter what caused it, detonation broke all the rings and caused the weird ware on the bearings. the odd color you see on the bearings is just the coating they use to protect the bearings during initial breaking. its just oxidized over time. all the lobs on the cam are worn, not as bad as the first lobe but all of them are worn, so i know for a fact it was modern oil that killed the cam. one other thing, the fuel pump rod is oiled by the passageway in the lifter valley, if you leave it out when using an electric fuel pump, the front lifters will starve for oil even though you have oil pressure. so make sure to put it back in, even if you are not using a mechanical fuel pump.
To be honest, the 283 is one of my favorite engines. they were solid performers for their size, and they rev to the moon. the cylinder walls are super thick on 283 blocks. you can bore most of them out .125 inch. In fact, back in the 60 the hot trick was to bore them out to 4.00 and make a "301". that is the same bore and stroke as the DZ302 z28 engines. GM just rounded it up to "302" cubic inch. since 350's and 383 are extremely common these days, they make far better street engines for daily drivers. so that only leave there are only 2 real paths for this engine. a very mild street/stock build for someone who plans to use it in a classic car that originally came with a 283 and since 283's are getting really hard to find so it is very valuable to the right person. or you build it like a 60's era 301 or DZ302. these are a lot of fun in a first or second gen Camaro. granted the 302 was not offered in the second gen Camaro, but the second gen Camaro is a much better handling car than the first gen cars. put in a high revving 301/302 and a 4 speed, and you have a killer road course or auto cross machine.
just a couple of other things. the canister on the back was for the Road Draft PCV system that was used on early small block chevys. That Edelbrock street master manifold was a mid 70s era piece that was supposed to provide more power and better fuel mileage than the factory chevy manifolds. they are super rare these days. not many were sold since they have weird, stepped runners to eliminate reversion. they also did not make much power over stock manifolds. the Performer and the later Torquer II were significantly better. but it is vintage so if you were going to build a car it in some kind of "Day 2" restoration it would be a cool piece to have in something like a 70's hot rod shagging wagon custom van, with side pipes from that era. but doesn't really work on a 283.
2nd gen were available with 302. Ive got 3 of the 302 blocks 2 are 70’s one is 71 year engines. They use 350’s larger main & rod bearing / block size. The smaller journal crank 283 in 67 was the original DZ302 if I’m remembering correctly. After tha they all went large journal and had crank bolt style with large balancer and accessory drilled heads usually 186# and some had 2:02 some had #1:94 size valves most bigger valve heads. None of mine were completely original with same heads they came with originally. 2 engines were dealer replacement engines but I think maybe they were short blocks and that’s how they had different # and date cylinder heads. All 3 engines had mismatched date code heads. Bought them from a older mechanic who’s brother and my dad raced camaro and mid sized Chevy’s Chevelle and Nova. Apparently the guy who sold me his collection owned a machine shop or equipment and he built the engines for there race team. I’ve had 2 numbers matching 2nd gen camaro’s with the 302 both with the same options just different color cars and a year apart. 2 Holley’s each and a 4 speed in the 70 auto in 71. They were fun as hell to drive but I got afraid to drive them around seemed like every time for a year or 2 I’d almost be in a accident or something catastrophic almost happened so in 2017 I sold them. Going to build 72 with a engine like ur talking about I’ve got a 283 that was pulled 2 weeks old because customer was flipping out because of rattling and putting 4 quarts of oil in it 1 per fill up for 2 weeks. My dad pulled it out and swapped it with a car right off the new car lot then replaced that with a 350 because the 283 had been canceled so there was a back order issue. The 283 kinda sat in the corner for 30 years and dad told me about it forever and when I was around 15 or 16 I stopped by his shop after school and he was unloading a 283 with 2 inches of dust on it. He stopped at the old building still part of the original dealer in Heber Springs AR and they were cleaning out a old service station on the dealership lot and in one of the old outside of the building bathrooms was that engraved and several 3 speed transmission core that never were sent back. There was also a iron duke bolted up with a T-10 4 speed pulled from a monza. I’m going to start it as is it’s complete from the original style 4 barrel carb to generator. I want to punch it to 4 and used that T-10 on my clone car that I can beat on and not fear dings and gravel or being pulled out in front of every opportunity. Oh and the best part is all the engines and stuff at the station bathroom was just given to dad to haul off if he wanted it. He bought all his trucks and wreckers for his shop from them so he was pretty close to the situation “got lucky”. I’m 42 now or tomorrow on the 4th I will be. Anyway sorry for writing a book. Insomnia is a bitch. Thanks for reading if anyone does.
God Bless
WWG1WGA!!!
JM in Greers Ferry AR
Jesus!!!
scanned the comments didn't see anyone who looked up the casting numbers 384952 my book says 283 58-63 cars, 58-67 trucks. and 64-67 passenger , chevelle. could be off somewhat no book has all the correct info. you passed over a number of things like the date cast code.
Maybe some of the rocker studs have pulled from over reving the engine, valve float...
Looks like they were going to install a turttle in the intake...
Before PCV...crank ventilation
52 years old and probably 520,000 miles. Rings will break over time- the metal just fatigues. No reason for a high volume oil pump. What to do? Punch that puppy .120 drop a set of big heads on it with a steep cam!! Oh- that intake divider was to "tune down" the intake so it acted more like a dual plane. Love the mismatched heads though !!
Would love to build one of these with Vortec 350 heads. Would be a little screamer.
Your wrong. Putting big valve heads on small bore engines places the intake valves closer to the cylinder wall. Everything gained would be lost.
If only. Gotta have the right size combustion chamber. 58-60 seems best
@@stevepulse4893I said this BEFORE I learned that you need a smaller chamber and BEFORE I purchased an .080 over 283. Bore is now 3.955, close to the " magical" 4 inch bore and "almost " a 301. A 1.94 intake valve is NOT too large but I do think a 2.02 would be too much. I have a set a set of 601 heads that I'm going to use instead of my Vortecs. They have a 1.84 intake valve which should make you happy. On that particular head, installing a 1.94 would indeed cause excessive shrouding. PS, it's "you're " , not "your" and no I'm not.
Nice! I've heard of ppl boring out these to around 4" and it working well. I'm hunting for some 305 HO heads to make a ripper. Thinking maybe boat engine?
@@diveingarage I found a set of 601s from a 305. I've had them for years and no recollection of what they might have come from.
Standard bore for 283 should be 3" & 7/8"...
Put 305 heads on it. Either 416 or 601
Early 283 had steel crank and later ones had cast cranks...
Dependent on manual trans or auto, not year, crank seams tell all.
Someone painted that timing cover and balancer , those heads someone put them on if I guess rite
that's a late 283 with a cast iron crankshaft also. Most were a steel unit. Rings may have brock with that carbon ridge. They get more brittle over time esp if it's been over heated. If someone has been in it check the back of the bearings for a date .they look too newer for that year block. Since there is a cork pan gasket that looks to be newer. That grey paint it looks to be a replacement short block possibly? Cam distributor drive gear looks ate up too. Divider in intake is to make it a dual plane. Great video!
Thanks for the info! I appreciate it
Cam was damage before you removed it buddy!
Minimum bore if crank is bad, install stroker kit aluminum heads.
Know of any 58cc alum heads?
L98 heads
Timing set not original.
Rebuild and get predator carburetor with will scream….
You forgot the fuel pump pushrod. Rookie mistake!!
Yuup, missed that. Been a while since I messed with a manual pump.
283 heads heads have very small intake ports and small valves.
P.p. heads are 52cc combustion chambers.
No 283's were made in 1968, last year was 67... The 305 replaced the 283 in 1968... Maybe the screw is in the bottom of intake because someone was going to put a turtle in it?
wonder what everything was torqued at rebuild it put some high dome pistons, off road z 28 cam solid lifters , and set the road on fire make it run like a dog with its ass on fire !!! 😂😂😂
They are cast iron rings and your breaking them as they are coming out. If jt would have been one. Or two maybe but no way they were running that way
Those are not stock pushrods!
2-piece rings for easy installation?
Someone screwed up when installing the pistons in the block resulting in the broken rings.
Probably whacking on the top of the pistons while trying to push on the rings with a screwdriver or such with a ring compressor. The same broken ring issue can occur on disassembly if there's a pronounced ridge at the top of the cylinder. There doesn't appear to be such a ridge in this instance.
@@gman197922725 Man, that makes me cringe. Especially when you consider just how many of these were busted! I did rings once, and while it was fun, it was a little nerve-racking.
Show us how it's done, Ben!
The block has to be 65 or older...
Think so? Hope it's still good, I'd like to build it
Rings are old a brittle...
Ring gap
Build a 302 like the DZ 302
302 builds you use a 327 block
@@larrywarner9314 you need a 283 crank though.
Head.s not 283
You try to pull a cam with fuel pump in? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Some people make mistakes, I assume you are the epitome of perfection given the fact your PFP looks like a living walking ogre.
You also have no real channel or sub count, get lost.
@@Shade_tree_garage01 Read the Tattoo I got just for You after I retired.
@@Motorhead-y3I can’t read it for the neck rolls on that eggplant cleaner of yours.
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