Outdoor HVAC Unit Fan Motor! Step by Step Troubleshooting, Capacitor, and Exact Resistance Readings!
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2016
- Outdoor HVAC Unit Fan Motor! Step by Step Troubleshooting, Capacitor, and Exact Resistance Readings! We go over where to start and what to look for when reading resistance with the POWER OFF and the motor disconnected/isolated. Even if you are not sure where the wires lead to inside the motor I show you how to confirm the exact correct resistance reading which will confirm that the motor is intact. This works for single-speed, single-phase PSC Motors such as Condenser and Heat Pump Fan Motors as well as Compressors. This is what is referred to as the three-wire setup which is the usual installation practice of the manufacturer. Replacement condenser fan motors sometimes come with what is referred to as a four-wire setup with installation instructions as a direct replacement. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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ua-cam.com/video/HgnD_1ll0BC/v-deo.html
I took a 10 month program to learn this type of work and your videos are very helpful it’s a lot of stuff to remember how to do
I don't have any that I have ripped out to use or ones that I can dismantle at the present. Good video idea though. If I were to get one, I will do it. Thanks for your comments!
ua-cam.com/video/HgnD_1ll0BC/v-deo.html
Thank you very much!
love your video's there great!!!!
Best Demo 👍🏻
Very knowledgeable.
could you do a dc inverter fan motor test and check?
Your videos are always great. keep up the good work.
Thank you very much and I value all of your comments and questions! I will be getting to that live TXV diagnosis. 15 hour Heat Pump System Replacement all yesterday. Keep up with the questions!
When I say 15hr Heat Pump Replacement, I am talking about almost whole system replacement, cutting wall open, fishing lineset, new 40' long condensate with pitching, increasing return size and new grills, and so on. It is rare that I am ok with just replacing a Fan Coil and the Outdoor Unit just because of how it was installed previously as well as changing from R-22 to R-410A, that is why the 15 hrs. Just thought I should explain that statement. Thanks!
+acservicetech sounds like it's going to be great! which I could have had an instructor like you when I was in school.
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Can you check this without the end of the wires being exsposed? Or while everything is still hooked up? Maybe with the clamp on top of the multimeter (placing around wire)? Thanks
Can I use continuity to check if my condenser fan motor is bad or I have to check only with ohms ?
That was great!
Thanks Daniel!
I have a motor that calls for .73 amps but it’s pulling 1.58amps. Safe to say it’s on its way out right? Had it shut off on me once already while I was on the call.
How about a 4 wire fan ? How do I test the fan motor with ohms ???? Need help troubleshooting
Thanks for the fast response. If I wait to see if the fan just dies (instead of replacing it asap l beforehand)... What is the worst that could happen? Could I potentially destroy my condenser if the fan stops and I don't notice it or am away from the house? The reason I ask is because only a week and a half ago I had sealant put in the system (with a fresh R22 charge) and am wanting to see if it actually works and seals before investing in any more parts for this unit (prior to the sealant my last R22 charge lasted only a month). And yes... I know that the popular opinion is that the sealant is (at best) a long shot... But (due to my financial circumstances) it is a shot I have to take. Please advise as to if you think me waiting a month and a half becore replacing the fan is or is not a good idea and any potential dismal consequences. Again... no need to tell me I need to replace the system. Thanks so much for your help with this matter.
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I have a train unit that the fan motor would not work I did a ohms reading and between brown and purple it is 126 ohms between black and brown it is 91 ohms and between black and purple it is 97 ohms so I know that 91 plus 97 is 188 so that way over the 126 reading I guessing that would be bad right
How do you MegaOhm a Fan motor ?
Thanks
Thanks Jonathan!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
What would cause condenser fan motor to pull high amps one I meaured today was rated for 0.75 and it measures 0.81. I know a dirty condenser would cause amp draw to increase but what other reasons would cause that. The capacitor was under manufactures specs but that was on the compressor side the fan side was at 5mfd.
It could be due to heat or a start of the breakdown of the resin on the windings. .81 is not that far off though for the fan motor since they are sealed and do have the heat surrounding them, thanks David!
Do the numbers need to be exact ? My reading is off by .5? Thanks
The orange wire would be your start and that would go into the capacitor right? The blue wire is your run so that one along with the black wire(common) would go into into the fan relay?
Yes the contactor relay and that's correct. Yeah this is the question I saw appear then it was gone before I could answer it. Hope all is well David!
Help! I have not run the AC unit I am asking about for roughly 11 months. This fan seems to be working just fine as I type this however a short while (2 days) after I restarted it up I found the compressor running but the fan stopped... also, there seemed to be a very, very, SLIGHT electrical type of smell present near the condenser. I thought my condenser was totally toast! After I left the condenser completely off over night with a FEW pushes on the fan blades... I was able to push start the fan but then realized that it seems that I now have a condenser fan motor that started squealing a few times (but has happened only a few times since re start up). Additionally, the fan spins... but not super "freely". I have replaced the capacitor and I have ohm measured out the power leads and measured the amp draw and the fan motor is good from that aspect (and still runs). The condenser was made in 1997 and I suspect the fan motor is intact and original from 1997 as well. I know it is old, so please don't simply tell me to replace the entire system, etc. as financially, that is (simply) not an option for me right now. There seems to be no play (side to side) on the motor shaft). Is it possible (since it has sat for 11 months) that I don't need to do anything and that the unit was temporarily and simply screeching out some "cob webs" after sitting for so long (so to speak). If not, then I suspect that it is the motor bearings (or bushings???). If it is either of those, I was thinking about attempting to replace JUST them (and not the whole motor) but wondering... Is it not worth it to try to replace the JUST the bearings (or bushing or whatever) in the condenser fan motor? ROUGHLY how much do you guess bearings / bushings cost? If worth it, then how do I tell which ones I need and where do you suggest I get the bearings or bushings? A new generic motor is only about $60. but I just hate to replace the whole motor if it is possible to MUCH more cheaply salvage the existing one unless you tell me the task is either impossible or simply to much of a pain in the neck. Of course, if you have never performed the (bearing / bushing etc.) replacement task yourself or it is simply beyond your scope of knowledge, then please let me know that as well. What would you do if you were me considering the above stated facts & circumstances? YOUR FAST REPLY WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... Help!
When off, the condensor fan should spin freely. I would turn the power off and replace the fan motor. Make sure to use the correct mfd/uf capacitor with the fan motor. Thanks
Wouldn't the first test be a spin test with a screwdriver [fan installed] or by hand [fan removed]? Binding or rough bearings would automatically condemn the fan motor, no? Then - a motor resistance and capacitor check to narrow down the defective component?
THANKS for the video.
my ac fan has brown,black and yellow.. can u help me testing my motor?
thanks again
That would be a three wire condenser fan. You need to turn the power off and test from any one of those wires to ground with continuity. It should not have continuity. You need to read the resistance of the wires in pairs. Two sets of resistance readings should equal the opther pair. That would be a good motor as long as the bearings spin freely. Most times it is the capacitor which needs to be replaced with the exact same capacitor. Here are some videos for you. ---ua-cam.com/video/0U_bpumqCRI-/v-deo.html-----ua-cam.com/video/e9EfACNsZ7o-/v-deo.html--- if you want more like this then check the playlist on the channel page, thanks!
So I replaced my capacitor (correctly with the exact same capacitor from old one) and checked the fan which was good (30+50 on one pair, and 80 on one pair) and I still can't get this Goodman AC to work? @@acservicetechchannel
I have a question about how to test a capacitor for a heat commercial pump trane. I have one the say 135-162 mfd, but went I test it with my multimeter it is 210 mfd. I guess it is break and has to be replaced. What do you think ?
If the resister is still in place then the reading may be high. That is the start capacitor for the compressor only and not for the fan, thanks
Did you see my response to your reply yesterday? Also wondering if think that in my situation (not sure if unit will ultimately hold refrigerant long term) a replacement OEM motor is worth the extra cash over a generic motor.
$70. for generic VS $114. for OEM (Generic is 25 less RPM though) Hoping you will respond to these and my other prior questions.
Hey Jo Tu, I would replace the motor with the generic if you are familiar with how to do it safely, or call a tech to replace it, thanks
My fan motor works if it hasn't been on in a few hours, but after it cools the house, if it tries to turn back on when the fan motor is hot, it won't turn on. The contactor seems fine, I tested the ohms on the fan motor and they read 25Ω, 70Ω, and 95Ω which sound like it should be good. Because capacitors are cheap, I replaced my dual capacitor 60+5 uf (which wasn't bulging and the uf tested ok.) I added a three wire 5-2-1 hard start kit. But after all the tests, it still does the same thing... if the motor is hot, the compressor kicks on, but the fan barely moves and then stops. If I wait a few hours, it works again. Can a fan motor be bad, even if the ohms add up? Or is there something else that I'm missing that would also cause it to only work when the system has been off for a while?
It could be the bearings seizing up or it could be lower than needed high voltage, or just the resin has broken down and now heat occurs when running and the thermal overload pops, shutting it off. After it cools then you would get a resistance reading again. If everything else is good like you are mentioning then it sounds like the motor will need to be replaced, thanks
Is the lowest resistance reading the run or start winding?
The lowest resistance reading would be from run to common and the highest would be from start to run, thanks
Hi AC Service Tech, I'm looking at a 2 speed psc condensor fan motors (4 wires instead of 3),
free spins fine, so how does the ohming process change using the 4th wire, I guess that's for
the 2nd speed?
It's a 16 seer (2stage) 2 Ton Goodman HP with the premium comfortnet board replacing the
contactor if you are familiar with them; Compressor and 35/5 Cap. both check out good so far but unit still pop's indoor panel breaker instantly when it gets a heat call. If I can't find a short
to ground in the fan motor, what next? Could the CCHeater be a cause/short? Any suggestions
or applicable videos will be appreciated. Thanks, Bob
Did you check your resistance valves on the compressor? Also what you would do is pull the power disconnect and continue reading between one of your two supply lines entering the contactor and the ground and disconnect one wire at a time until your 0.0ohms is now higher meaning no longer a dead short. This will tell you where your problem is. Then you may just be reading a correct resistance value on a compressor. Make sure to follow the wiring diagram of that motor and don't turn the power back on again until the 0.0ohms reading is gone, thanks
Hi @@acservicetechchannel. I first isolated the compressor and tested for short to ground (found zero continuity at each lead) and resistance value both through the leads and then at the 3 bare terminals (1.2 CR + 1.4 CS = 2.7RS ....ohms) so that seems good. So as it stands now, 240V disconnect is pulled and COMP. and FAN are both isolated/disconnected.
AS I first asked originally above, I'm unsure how to resistance check FAN as it is a 2 speed / 4 wire fan, not a 3 wire. None of the 4 leads read any grounding but is the 4th wire a 2nd run wire and how should the resistance values add up????
I will go back and start at L1 and L2 on the comfortnet/emerson board (remember NO CONTACTOR) and check resistance starting there (and unpluging loads) until I read something other than 0.0 ohms/short to ground. So I guess if I finally get everything unplugged from the board and still read 0.0 ohms, that means the board is bad, ... correct??? Thanks for your time and knowledge, Bob
Hey Bobrub, on a two speed motor the higher speed will be a lower resistance than the low speed. Yeah I would isolate each component and test each against ground until the problem is found thanks
You say indoor panel breaker trips on heat call. Heat pump has two breakers, one for outside unit, and one for indoor housing where fan and heat strips are. Some tstats energize heat strips along with heat pump if tstat and indoor temp settings are two or three degrees different.Just wondering if your indoor heat strips are tripping the breaker for inside unit which would shut your inside blower off along with killing low voltage to outside unit shutting it down as well. If indoor blower is still running, than it wouldn't be the heat strips. If its the cc heater, just unplug the wires to it and reset breaker to check.
Hi there, I have one wire that only stays at O.L when compared to the other 2 but the others give me a reading. Is that a sign of a bad motor also? Thanks
If one of the three wires get 0.L with the other two after the motor has had a chance to cool down then yes it is a burnt winding. Does that wire have 0.0ohm with ground too? Look up "acservicetech thermal overload" to see how it opens up the circuit when hot, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I tested with ground and getting the same O.L. I will check out to the video thank you
ua-cam.com/video/HGnD_1ll0BC/v-deo.html
Could a bad condenser fan caused the system to freeze? I went and checked and AC unit and the system was frozen, the owner told someone had checked the system and told him it was the condenser fan but when I checked it the fan was spinning freely without any noise
No a condenser fan would not make a unit freeze. It would be either low indoor airflow, liquid line restriction or low on refrigerant, thanks!
Very helpful! However, you didn't mention what indicates that the fan is bad. I guess it would be open or shorted.
My fan ohms out as you said, but doesn't spin. It gets hot, and the bearings spin freely. Eventually the compressor shutsoff because it pressumably overheats (the whole radiator is very hot.
Does this point to a bad capacitor?
I would check the capacitor first before ohming the motor. Check out "acservicetech capacitor playlist" thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Respectfully you still didn't answer the question...what indicates if the fan is bad?
@@acservicetechchannel I was wondering how it is determined if it is bad too? Do the readings not add up then that is considered bad? I love his videos but a bit of clarity would help on this one. Are the other ways to see if a motor is bad like using a megohmeter or something else?
ua-cam.com/video/HgnD_1ll0BC/v-deo.html
Having the same issue. Wanting the same follow up clarification.
I did not see where you actually tested the compacitor...
Thanks, you saved me again.
I have just replaced the capacitor and the contactor. The fan runs for a few minutes and then stops. It gets real hot to the touch. I have already checked the resistance on the three wires and they all add up. The fan seems to spin freely by hand. Any advice on what to do next to trouble shoot it would be greatly appreciate it.
There really is not much more you are going to do but to replace the motor. Just one last thing is to make sure that the voltage does not drop and is within an acceptable range for the motor while the motor is on, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel I've done the above as wel I'm having the same issue resistances add up but the fan doesn't spin...I'm going to pick up a motor and hope for the best...
@@MetalSonic1389 what was the issue?
I have 140 ohms between 2 wires and everything else is open. Bad motor ? I also had a smoked capacitor. The motor started up once after a banged on it with a hammer 😃
Make sure that the thermal cutout cools down and has a chance to close the electrical circuit on the common wire. After that if you have the same readings then yes it is bad, thanks
When testing outside of the unit, my fan turns on. However when I reinstall it doesn't start up. It sounds like it wants to and it turns a little but won't kick up into speed. Almost like it's seized. Any ideas? Remember though, when out of the unit, the fan spins freely.
That could be part of the stator that has moved and is jamming up against the rotor in that certain position and then you move the motor into a different position and it works. That just happened to me after I removed the outdoor fan motor to clean the inside of the unit and I put it back and it was seized up. I replaced the motor since they are not that much and did not want that to happen again, thanks!
acservicetech, is not that much $150-200? That seems to be the price range I have found. That's steep for my budget, but it sounds like I'm going to have to take that loss. Thanks for your input.
Sorry, I mean't around $85 dollars at the supply house usually. I mean't compared to something like the compressor. Unfortunately there is not much else with those motors. Make sure that the capacitor is good also before replacing and that the motor is getting the proper voltage,Thanks
acservicetech , I'm glad to report that we got it going again. We cracked it open. Lubed and cleaned the inside, gave the entire unit a bit of TLC and presto, it worked! The fan kicked on and all seems operational, fingers crossed that it stays that way. Thanks for your help!
ua-cam.com/video/HgnD_1ll0BC/v-deo.html
If the motor were bad, what reading would I get? Thanks
Most of the time it is either bad bearings and doesn't spin or the windings have a resistance reading to the ground of the motor when it should not. The run to common plus the start to common may also not match the start to run resistance reading as well.
Could be an open ol winding or short to ground which would be a resistance reading to ground.
My AC fan resistance is good but when I connected Black wire and C wire to power outlet fan don't turn on. You have any idea what's wrong.
Did you already check the capacitor and capacitor wiring? - ua-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwj2amJSXUKVkv4KV4Az5_Y.html
Yes I did it was good, but I figure it out. I plug the wire wrong witch is why the fan didn't turn On. I kept troubleshooting and saw one of the fuses was damage, once I replace it Fan turn on. Thank You
Awesome, thanks for letting me know!
What would cause a fan motor to not spin to it fullest. One speed motor.
Alright!
I’m the homeowner.
My condenser fan reads
Black to purple=29.1
Black to Brown =66.7
For a total of 95.8
Purple and brown=94.1
So about 1 to 2 ohms off.
My professional tech insists the fan is bad (he never took winding readings but concludes it’s bad because it goes to thermal cutoff after it runs for several hours) and ordered one and charged me.
Based on these readings is he right or wrong. I showed him these numbers by text and he’s ghosting me.
Btw- I checked my 45/5 uF capacitor and it reads 29uF/4.89uF.
I think my capacitor is bad and the fan is fine. The low capacitance on the run side is causing the compressor to overheat thus shutting off the fan.
It’s a Goodman 3.5 ton 14 seer system.
Is my theory sound or is this both a bad dual capacitor and fan.
Running in to this issue currently. By chance do you remember what happened? I've replaced my capacitor already but can't get the fan to run even though it reads ok with the meter. Any help would be much appreciated
Video is glitched. Static on video. Audio works.
Hey viczam9 I just checked and it's working well, thanks
Fan turning super slowly buzzing
Resistance for fan good
No short
To start Run caps replaced - didn't have meter with me so just did. Started fan working when came back later fan turning super slow and buzzing plus compressor kicked off
Replaced contactor started up running fine
Came back fan turning super slow no buzzing. Compressor heating up and kicking off
Seems like if has to be fan motor but resistance fine and no short doesn't make sense to me
Mine ohmed out good and capacitor is good but still not coming on.
Did you check the resistance of the start wires that would connect to the capacitor as well? Thanks Chad!
acservicetech I checked resistance of 3 wires going to motor,and it ohmed out good and good capacitor but still didn't run.
How about the wiring. You should have one wire coming off of the contactor going to run on the motor, another coming off the other spot on the contactor or with a jumper from the contactor to c on the capacitor and going to common on the motor and you should have one coming from the other side of the cap going to the start on the motor. Make sure the cap is the correct mfd/uF as listed on the motor. After powering it, isolate the wires again to see if you lost the resistance value on the common wire indicating that the high temp cutout opened inside the motor. Also check each winding to ground as well, thanks Chad!
acservicetech ok i think i checked to ground and got ol,the motor was hot,but didn't know they could have a over load inside the motor.Thanks
It should be OL to ground, thats good but here is a video on the thermal overload. It breaks the common wire, thanks- ua-cam.com/video/IBg0EZg0ohY/v-deo.html and if it is getting hot, it may have the insulation wore down on the motor. It may be ready for a megger test or just replace because you can't fix the insulation value anyway, thanks
What about three phase? 460v
This was just about single phase psc condensor fan motors thanks Andy!
acservicetech yes . I was asking about 3 phase. Thanks anyways
Can u put a 40+5 capacitor instead of 35+5 in your unit?
No the capacitor has to be specifically rated to the compressor and fan motor.
I can’t See the reading on your meter … You should zoom in to show the people that are watching 😢
You didn’t give an answer if the motor was bad or good
Where are the wires coming from? 👎
Low# fan motor:
You forgot to show how to test for ground fault inside the motor to one or all the windings. Do you put one lead on a wire then the other on an unpainted part of the motor body?