You're right about the strings, I've been using them for over 15 years, they last 5 times longer than cheap strings. They are a little expensive but once they are on, you'll agree they are well worth the extra money. I can't afford a 250,000.00 car but I cant put the best oil money can buy in it.
It makes all the difference in the world. There's been several times when I've said to myself..."this sounds awful...maybe I need a new guitar" but then I change the strings and it brings it back to life!
I bought an old guitar from the 1960's it's an acoustic old Yamaha made in Japan but it's sound it fantastic I replaced the saddle from plastic to tusq and the nut with cattle bone then the pins with brass pins and now the sound is so deep and resonate like it didn't before. It amazes me the difference. I'm not going to even say I know what I'm doing I just seen someone mentioned it in a comment section and I tried it. I like the fact I could adjust the height of the strings by sanding. Truly night and day. Now the guitar sounds expensive
he’s not wrong about those elixirs with the nano coating, they last. but beware, they’re slippery and will force you to improve your technique if you’re like me. i got pretty frustrated for a minute, but after a couple months of focusing on pressure and placement they didn’t seem so slippery anymore.
I found my cheap guitar next to a bin down the street. I've got a new camel bone nut and saddle and a 5 band preamp and piezo pickup kit. About £13 as I looked for the best cheapest parts online due to the guitar being around £50. So. Half way through I find a top E string buzz around the 13th and 14th frets. Wish me luck people.
Get a straight edge that is 3 frets wide (a credit card will work) and see if it “rocks” on a fret. If it does, you have a “high fret.” You can gently tap it down (with a screwdriver handle or rubber mallet) until the card doesn’t rock anymore. Just don’t go too far.
I haven't watched the video yet but sir... You touched my soul in the first minute of your video cuz that's exactly what happened to me ;( Gonna switch to full screen and watch it now. Thanks for the video
@@justinbishopmusic thank you so much. It means a lot to me. I wanted to ask am I supposed to push the strings hard on the fret board or should I be just pressing enough so it just touched that metal thing on the frets... Bcz if I just do little hard press it doesn't play at all. I have to push very hard idk why but I didn't know about it and now my fingers are in so much pain.
@@AsadK5.0 You should only have to press it enough to touch the metal frets. Do you have a ruler? At the 12th fret, the strings should be around 2mm high. If they are higher, you'll want to check the things I talk about in the video or try to find a shop to lower the action. You can try filing the saddle yourself, and you'll want to file twice as much as you need to lower it. So if it's 4mm high, you need to lower it by 2mm, so you would file off 4mm. Here's a playlist I have with some basic lessons. Start at the end with "Chords 101" if you're just getting started. Oh, and your fingers won't hurt as much if you buy lighter strings. 11s or 10s for acoustic will make it easier to press down. 8s for an electric.
@@justinbishopmusic thank you so much for all the info. I've watched the video and yes my strings are 5mm high and the saddle on the bridge down there has No cuts like thing on it. I mean the strings are just running over it. There's no space like Bone has for the string to fit inside. I hope you get it. So should I do it myself to make that space/cuts in the saddle? Bcz my guitar doesn't have truss rod in it. And unfortunately I don't have any music shops nearby and it's complete lockdown can't even search for it. And yes I'm definitely gonna buy some good quality strings. Thank you so much for all the help I really appreciate it. May you grow on UA-cam in billions. ♥️
@@AsadK5.0 It's the nut that needs grooves, not the saddle. So you can probably do it yourself if you have a file (fingernail file or sandpaper/sanding block...even a concrete block!). Just take the strings off, then remove the saddle. Start filing on the bottom and try to keep it flat. Measure it first so you know how much you are filing. Try just filing 2mm and see how it improves. If you break it, this is a cheap part to replace. Most of them are made of plastic, so try not to put too much pressure or it can snap in half. They still work if they do snap in half, it's just harder to file from that point. Did you check to see if they neck was straight? Every guitar I've ordered online has needed the truss rod tightened, which usually lowers the strings by at least 1mm, and that's easier than filing the saddle.
String guage and type have an effect as well. A used guitar could be set up custom for the person you bought it from. A nylon string or gut string guitar with steel strings on it won't work. Nylon string tuners are drum type NOT a cog for the most part. Also the nut for a nylon string will be taller with thicker string guides than a steel string nut. Also tuning preference plays in. If you tune to standard and the guitar is set to one step down from standard it won't be optimal. If you get good enough to give a crap about all this you'll have preferences of your own about what type of string, what guage of string, and you're favorite tuning. If buying used it's good to know by looking at the tuners that the wrong strings are on that nylon string guitar. Crucial details that make the difference between bargain and burned.
Greetings! My friend Bryan Basuel makes guitars in the Philippines. Look him up on Facebook. I'm glad I could give you some ideas. Let me know if you have any questions.
Your video is really great. Just for my Sigma yesterday. Very good out of the box. Would like to switch out pins, saddle and nut (bass strings not seated fully in slots). Do you have links for the exact parts you got for yours? Sometimes there are specific sizes depending on the guitar. Thank you 😊
Since making this video, I’ve tried the D’Addario coated strings and much prefer them. But you know, nothing like a fresh set of regular strings…they just don’t stay fresh as long as the coated ones!
my guitar is davis jg38c it sound so thin and it dont have trussrod any tips how to fix the sound i want to sound it more deeper like other guitar but this guitar sound so thin and so loud i dont know how to fix it pls help
Great practical and usable video. Incidentally, how well did your Sigma play straight out the box? I'm planning on buying a £300 sigma OMT 1 pretty soon, and was hoping there wouldn't be anything I'd have to change. Thanks a lot. 👍
It played great out of the box. I just needed to adjust the truss rod a small amount for my tastes. I like a string height of 1.8 or 2mm at the 12th fret.
Great informative video. So there is hope 🤔 I just came across a Facebook Marketplace deal I couldn't resist. A 5 year old Yamaha FG700S for only $60. Practically New, the guy only strummed it done time and then stored in attic for 5 years. Well, it doesn't sound they greatest but I know its more than capable as I did my research to find these to be a number 1 seller and a Spruce top. Well, i'm struggling now to make it playable and I'm far from A Luthier. Im slowly working on them neck action a little everyday 1/4 turn. Not sure how much more to go but thinking of filing the bridge ( white part) Action is still high. Hopefully I can make it happen Any help is great because already frustrated.
Check to see if the neck is straight. Don’t want to over correct. Hold the first fret, then Put your right pinky on the 13th fret, and using your right index finger, press on the 6th fret. You want enough of a gap for a business card to fit in. If it’s touching the fret, you’ve gone too far and will need to back off. If the neck relief is right, the only option left to lower the action is to file the bridge. Sand paper or Emory boards will work. I like my action at 2mm at the 12th fret. You can measure that, then you’ll need to file the bridge twice the distance you’ll want to lower the action.
Yes, absolutely. It’s easy to mess up on any of these fixes. So definitely take it slow and experiment carefully, or get a professional to do the work.
Yes, and if you’re adjusting the saddle, you need to lower the saddle twice the distance that you want to lower the string. There’s a $10 Dunlop string gauge that really helps with the measurements.
Hello, I hope you can help me again, after 2 months I became a really good guitarist, I can play barre chords and fingerstyle songs, but my problem is fret buzz. Especially in 15 fret and above, what can I do?
You may have a high fret. To check, find a straight edge no longer than 3 frets wide (a credit card works). Put it across 3 frets and see if it rocks. It shouldn't rock anywhere. If it does, you'll want to lower the middle fret where it rocks, but be very careful because if you go too far, the problem becomes harder to fix. Best if it's done by a luthier.
My new cheap guitar came with Elixer nano webs on them. I can't stand those strings. I found Daddario nickel bronze and I doubt I'll look back. Set before last stayed on my guitar for a year. Recorded five or so albums with that set. Too bad I don't like the elixirs. Based on your math, they would last me a decade. Is that Sigma the same Sigma as Martin? I see it's supposed to look like a Martin, but it looks more like a Yamaha clone. Which is not a problem. I am a Yamaha fan. That's what my new "cheap guitar" is. An FGX5 that sounds as good as a D-18 at a sane price. If these Sigma guitars are better than say... Orangewood, I will buy one and use it as a dedicated Nashville strung guitar. And maybe I'll buy another to de-fret. I don't know wether to be glad or bummed that inexpensive guitars, in general, sucked when I was growing up. I think it's good. I learned to love and get along with what I had to work with, instead of endlessly searching for gear.
Yeah, I prefer to D'Addarios when I know I'm going to play something live, but the Elixirs really do last a long time and sound mostly the same for months (kinda like regular strings that are a few days old). I think Sigma broke away from Martin a while back, but they still have the looks. I haven't played Orangewood, but I think the ones they have in this price range have a "layered" spruce top (not sure what that means...like laminate?) and a satin finish (even the $200 ones). This one has a solid top and gloss finish. I wanted a folk or 000 size, and I've been very happy with this guitar just to have around the house and for campfires. Yamaha makes some great guitars. I have an LL-TA with builtin reverb that's amazing. There's a demo video on my channel if you're interested to hear it. I also have a demo of this sigma guitar where I play it more so you can hear it.
So you're telling us to buy a $130 guitar and then spend $75 to get it set up and another $100 to get the nut adjusted and then come out paying $305 for a $130 guitar. When you can just use UA-cam and they'll show you how to do it for free LOL I've never played a show with any guitar that was over $500. Experience is everything. DIY is the key.
Do you think the frets might be the problem why my guitar sound not as good as proffesional guitars? Even though I'm holding the strings very tight when doing a chord, it sounds not that good. I always want to do fingerstyle but it doesn't sound right.
Do you have a way to post a video of you playing it? I could tell more then. It’s possible the action is too high if it sounds dull, or too low if it buzzes.
@@justinbishopmusic yes, it is in low action Sir, when I'm strumming it, it sounds fine but when picking, it doesn't sound right as the videos in yt. I always feel like the sound of the guitar is only coming from the string that I don't touching when doing a chord. And if I do a bar chord which in that case I'm holding all of the strings, the sound is just the worst.
@@janpauldizonmarullo1917 ok, just hang in there and keep playing every day. It all gets easier and sounds better with time. Here is a video I made for beginners to learn chords. ua-cam.com/video/vKuzDFI5Ois/v-deo.html
Unfortunately elixir strings suck. The MARTIN phosphor bronze 010 set MA530T sounds way fatter then the Elixir. I've changed to the Martin set after working with the elixir for years. I am writing this after making a research as a musician and a sound engineer. The only drawback the the Martin set has, is that the strings are a bit too rough to play and it takes time to get used to it, but on the contrary, I am willing to give up my comfort in order to get a better sound. Thanks for the informative video.
I got a pair of the monel ones and I noticed the pain way faster. I play for hours at a time normally with very little pain and these I can go about 2 hours less and normal and my fingers are sore the next day. Been play for 12 years for context.
You may have to make some of the adjustments I describe, but yes, it’s possible for it to sound good. The most common thing is the neck might not be straight.
@@urosmiskovic5578 yes, they usually need changing once a month or so (after they start to rust a little). Daddario or Elixir is what I prefer. Light gauge. Phosphor bronze for acoustic.
@@justinbishopmusic Oh I just saw some cheap phosphor bronzes for 10$ in my local shop ( Btw I'm from Serbia so this price is average ) Thanks For the Tip!
@@urosmiskovic5578 if you wipe them off after each time you play, they will last longer, and I’ve heard you can take them off and boil them to last even longer. Good luck!
Good question. I think it keeps their cost down, and if a cheap guitar is being shipped from overseas, temperature fluctuations in transit can throw it out of whack anyway. The bone nut and saddle are cheap to buy, but they aren’t shaped out of the box. The labor in the US for a luthier to do a bone nut is $100 or so. Much easier for a manufacturer to install a pre-fab nut. Same with saddle, though labor is cheaper for that.
Because the the manufacturer dont want it to be expensive.thats why it's cheap.if you add the new sadle nut + string and brige pin how much is your guitar + your cheap guitar .do you think its cheap anymore
@@ragnaroksangel maybe I’m stuck in the past! I remember only seeing uncut ones in the music store, but you’re right…looking online now, they’re much easier to come by already cut. Just make sure the specs are right! I’ve never tried to do one myself. Seems like it’s too precise and best left to the pros. 🤷♂️
Point taken. I thought it improved it when I was first making videos, but you’re right. Better to be better prepared and edit better than to slap on a background track to fill empty space.
You paid 125 for guitar then 100 for the upgrades why not buy a better guitar for 225 dollars ive got a tanglewood and thats got a beutifull sound to it on parr with my friends £900 acoustic guitar..
This is a good point for sure. The only problem I see is that some of the 200-300 guitars have some of the same faults, so I guess it just comes down to picking one with the right components at any price range so that you don't have to spend more. But adjusting the truss rod and saddle are super cheap if you can do it yourself.
Its all about saving a cheap guitar to be playable.some people gumble to find nice cheap guitar.in the Philippines ther are many cheap guitar but fine quality nice sound and playable.not like china made
129 dollars +100 for nut and saddle+70 for another replacement +12 for strings=311 dollars might as well buy a guitar worth 300$ and it will be just fine
You're right about the strings, I've been using them for over 15 years, they last 5 times longer than cheap strings. They are a little expensive but once they are on, you'll agree they are well worth the extra money. I can't afford a 250,000.00 car but I cant put the best oil money can buy in it.
It makes all the difference in the world. There's been several times when I've said to myself..."this sounds awful...maybe I need a new guitar" but then I change the strings and it brings it back to life!
He looks like every guitar teacher
Ikr
It’s the hat and glasses that does it the most for me 😂
I bought an old guitar from the 1960's it's an acoustic old Yamaha made in Japan but it's sound it fantastic I replaced the saddle from plastic to tusq and the nut with cattle bone then the pins with brass pins and now the sound is so deep and resonate like it didn't before. It amazes me the difference. I'm not going to even say I know what I'm doing I just seen someone mentioned it in a comment section and I tried it. I like the fact I could adjust the height of the strings by sanding. Truly night and day. Now the guitar sounds expensive
*saw that
I have used Elixer Martin bronze and phosphor bronze very effectively on my 1960/70s Yamaha FG 335. I Must try the nut and brass pins.
lowered my saddle with sand paper , a huge improvement in the action and it made my takimine sound 1000 times better that was unexpected
he’s not wrong about those elixirs with the nano coating, they last. but beware, they’re slippery and will force you to improve your technique if you’re like me. i got pretty frustrated for a minute, but after a couple months of focusing on pressure and placement they didn’t seem so slippery anymore.
I found my cheap guitar next to a bin down the street. I've got a new camel bone nut and saddle and a 5 band preamp and piezo pickup kit. About £13 as I looked for the best cheapest parts online due to the guitar being around £50. So. Half way through I find a top E string buzz around the 13th and 14th frets. Wish me luck people.
Get a straight edge that is 3 frets wide (a credit card will work) and see if it “rocks” on a fret. If it does, you have a “high fret.” You can gently tap it down (with a screwdriver handle or rubber mallet) until the card doesn’t rock anymore. Just don’t go too far.
@@justinbishopmusic thanks for reminding me about tapping it down and I was using a couple of plastic cards in the way you mention.
oh my goodness- Thank You!!!! these are exactly the tips i needed
I haven't watched the video yet but sir... You touched my soul in the first minute of your video cuz that's exactly what happened to me ;(
Gonna switch to full screen and watch it now. Thanks for the video
Good luck! It takes some fine tuning, but I have faith in you!
@@justinbishopmusic thank you so much. It means a lot to me.
I wanted to ask am I supposed to push the strings hard on the fret board or should I be just pressing enough so it just touched that metal thing on the frets... Bcz if I just do little hard press it doesn't play at all. I have to push very hard idk why but I didn't know about it and now my fingers are in so much pain.
@@AsadK5.0 You should only have to press it enough to touch the metal frets. Do you have a ruler? At the 12th fret, the strings should be around 2mm high. If they are higher, you'll want to check the things I talk about in the video or try to find a shop to lower the action. You can try filing the saddle yourself, and you'll want to file twice as much as you need to lower it. So if it's 4mm high, you need to lower it by 2mm, so you would file off 4mm. Here's a playlist I have with some basic lessons. Start at the end with "Chords 101" if you're just getting started. Oh, and your fingers won't hurt as much if you buy lighter strings. 11s or 10s for acoustic will make it easier to press down. 8s for an electric.
@@justinbishopmusic thank you so much for all the info. I've watched the video and yes my strings are 5mm high and the saddle on the bridge down there has No cuts like thing on it. I mean the strings are just running over it. There's no space like Bone has for the string to fit inside. I hope you get it.
So should I do it myself to make that space/cuts in the saddle? Bcz my guitar doesn't have truss rod in it. And unfortunately I don't have any music shops nearby and it's complete lockdown can't even search for it.
And yes I'm definitely gonna buy some good quality strings.
Thank you so much for all the help I really appreciate it.
May you grow on UA-cam in billions. ♥️
@@AsadK5.0 It's the nut that needs grooves, not the saddle. So you can probably do it yourself if you have a file (fingernail file or sandpaper/sanding block...even a concrete block!). Just take the strings off, then remove the saddle. Start filing on the bottom and try to keep it flat. Measure it first so you know how much you are filing. Try just filing 2mm and see how it improves. If you break it, this is a cheap part to replace. Most of them are made of plastic, so try not to put too much pressure or it can snap in half. They still work if they do snap in half, it's just harder to file from that point. Did you check to see if they neck was straight? Every guitar I've ordered online has needed the truss rod tightened, which usually lowers the strings by at least 1mm, and that's easier than filing the saddle.
OMG here in Philippines it's rare to find a good quality guitar that's why i watched your vids
Fr can relate
String guage and type have an effect as well. A used guitar could be set up custom for the person you bought it from. A nylon string or gut string guitar with steel strings on it won't work. Nylon string tuners are drum type NOT a cog for the most part. Also the nut for a nylon string will be taller with thicker string guides than a steel string nut. Also tuning preference plays in. If you tune to standard and the guitar is set to one step down from standard it won't be optimal. If you get good enough to give a crap about all this you'll have preferences of your own about what type of string, what guage of string, and you're favorite tuning. If buying used it's good to know by looking at the tuners that the wrong strings are on that nylon string guitar. Crucial details that make the difference between bargain and burned.
Thanks for the info I'll give it a try
Good video. No bs and to the point.
Nice teaching sir. tanks for new ideas iam from Phillipines
Greetings! My friend Bryan Basuel makes guitars in the Philippines. Look him up on Facebook. I'm glad I could give you some ideas. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great information. This tells me what I'm paying for when I have a Guitar setup by a pro. I like knowing these things.
Thanks! Check out Thomann’s videos on each step of the process. They get much more detailed.
Thanks for the advise, action on my two chip guitars is about 4.3 mm needless to say the sound is not good.
Who knew the guy from Mythbusters was a kick ass guitarist????
Your video is really great. Just for my Sigma yesterday. Very good out of the box. Would like to switch out pins, saddle and nut (bass strings not seated fully in slots). Do you have links for the exact parts you got for yours? Sometimes there are specific sizes depending on the guitar. Thank you 😊
Excellent video
So you can adjust the truss rod with the strings in place? Had a few acoustic's and never knew where the truss rod adjustment was.
Yes just proceed with caution. Turn it a quarter, then retune. Repeat till it feels better and doesn’t buzz.
Of course you’d suggest elixir’s.
Since making this video, I’ve tried the D’Addario coated strings and much prefer them. But you know, nothing like a fresh set of regular strings…they just don’t stay fresh as long as the coated ones!
lots of good advice there
I make my own bone saddle(s) outta deer antler
Cool! I didn't realize that would work, but it makes sense.
The background music just couldn't finish the vid.
my guitar is davis jg38c it sound so thin and it dont have trussrod any tips how to fix the sound i want to sound it more deeper like other guitar but this guitar sound so thin and so loud i dont know how to fix it pls help
Hi sir thank you for those tips it helped me 😊 and I'm from Philippines 😊
Great practical and usable video. Incidentally, how well did your Sigma play straight out the box? I'm planning on buying a £300 sigma OMT 1 pretty soon, and was hoping there wouldn't be anything I'd have to change. Thanks a lot. 👍
It played great out of the box. I just needed to adjust the truss rod a small amount for my tastes. I like a string height of 1.8 or 2mm at the 12th fret.
Great informative video. So there is hope 🤔 I just came across a Facebook Marketplace deal I couldn't resist. A 5 year old Yamaha FG700S for only $60. Practically New, the guy only strummed it done time and then stored in attic for 5 years.
Well, it doesn't sound they greatest but I know its more than capable as I did my research to find these to be a number 1 seller and a Spruce top. Well, i'm struggling now to make it playable and I'm far from A Luthier. Im slowly working on them neck action a little everyday 1/4 turn. Not sure how much more to go but thinking of filing the bridge ( white part) Action is still high.
Hopefully I can make it happen
Any help is great because already frustrated.
Check to see if the neck is straight. Don’t want to over correct. Hold the first fret, then Put your right pinky on the 13th fret, and using your right index finger, press on the 6th fret. You want enough of a gap for a business card to fit in. If it’s touching the fret, you’ve gone too far and will need to back off. If the neck relief is right, the only option left to lower the action is to file the bridge. Sand paper or Emory boards will work. I like my action at 2mm at the 12th fret. You can measure that, then you’ll need to file the bridge twice the distance you’ll want to lower the action.
@@justinbishopmusic I appreciate the reply. I will gladly take your advice and perform the following directions to the best I can. Crossing my fingers
If you don't know what you are doing and sand down the saddle to get low action, you might lose torque and the guitar will sound worse
Yes, absolutely. It’s easy to mess up on any of these fixes. So definitely take it slow and experiment carefully, or get a professional to do the work.
How to adjust my cheap acoustic guitar sond nice
Great info
ZERO GLIDE nut is the way to go.
2mm at the 12th fret. Is that from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string? Thanks
Yes, and if you’re adjusting the saddle, you need to lower the saddle twice the distance that you want to lower the string. There’s a $10 Dunlop string gauge that really helps with the measurements.
Thanks Justin your knowledge is helpful
I have always heard you do 3/16th at the 12th fret. Not from the actual fret, but the fretboard to the top of the string.
My guitar doesn’t have bridge pins means its bad ???
No not necessarily. Is it steel or nylon strings?
Hello, I hope you can help me again, after 2 months I became a really good guitarist, I can play barre chords and fingerstyle songs, but my problem is fret buzz. Especially in 15 fret and above, what can I do?
You may have a high fret. To check, find a straight edge no longer than 3 frets wide (a credit card works). Put it across 3 frets and see if it rocks. It shouldn't rock anywhere. If it does, you'll want to lower the middle fret where it rocks, but be very careful because if you go too far, the problem becomes harder to fix. Best if it's done by a luthier.
By lowering it, I mean I take a scredriver handle and press firmly on the fret and check it again to see if it rocks.
@@justinbishopmusic you're the best Sir, I'll try to do it!
My new cheap guitar came with Elixer nano webs on them. I can't stand those strings. I found Daddario nickel bronze and I doubt I'll look back. Set before last stayed on my guitar for a year. Recorded five or so albums with that set. Too bad I don't like the elixirs. Based on your math, they would last me a decade.
Is that Sigma the same Sigma as Martin? I see it's supposed to look like a Martin, but it looks more like a Yamaha clone. Which is not a problem. I am a Yamaha fan. That's what my new "cheap guitar" is. An FGX5 that sounds as good as a D-18 at a sane price.
If these Sigma guitars are better than say... Orangewood, I will buy one and use it as a dedicated Nashville strung guitar. And maybe I'll buy another to de-fret. I don't know wether to be glad or bummed that inexpensive guitars, in general, sucked when I was growing up. I think it's good. I learned to love and get along with what I had to work with, instead of endlessly searching for gear.
Yeah, I prefer to D'Addarios when I know I'm going to play something live, but the Elixirs really do last a long time and sound mostly the same for months (kinda like regular strings that are a few days old). I think Sigma broke away from Martin a while back, but they still have the looks. I haven't played Orangewood, but I think the ones they have in this price range have a "layered" spruce top (not sure what that means...like laminate?) and a satin finish (even the $200 ones). This one has a solid top and gloss finish. I wanted a folk or 000 size, and I've been very happy with this guitar just to have around the house and for campfires. Yamaha makes some great guitars. I have an LL-TA with builtin reverb that's amazing. There's a demo video on my channel if you're interested to hear it. I also have a demo of this sigma guitar where I play it more so you can hear it.
LLTA - ua-cam.com/video/g7VZKOkLHEA/v-deo.html
SIGMA ua-cam.com/video/xeHb1EV5Wik/v-deo.html
String joy are even better then elixir
So you're telling us to buy a $130 guitar and then spend $75 to get it set up and another $100 to get the nut adjusted and then come out paying $305 for a $130 guitar. When you can just use UA-cam and they'll show you how to do it for free LOL
I've never played a show with any guitar that was over $500. Experience is everything. DIY is the key.
Do you think the frets might be the problem why my guitar sound not as good as proffesional guitars? Even though I'm holding the strings very tight when doing a chord, it sounds not that good. I always want to do fingerstyle but it doesn't sound right.
Do you have a way to post a video of you playing it? I could tell more then. It’s possible the action is too high if it sounds dull, or too low if it buzzes.
@@justinbishopmusic yes, it is in low action Sir, when I'm strumming it, it sounds fine but when picking, it doesn't sound right as the videos in yt. I always feel like the sound of the guitar is only coming from the string that I don't touching when doing a chord. And if I do a bar chord which in that case I'm holding all of the strings, the sound is just the worst.
@@janpauldizonmarullo1917 ok, how long have you been playing? It takes some time to get everything to ring clear.
@@justinbishopmusic ohh, that's the reason, I'm a beginner.
@@janpauldizonmarullo1917 ok, just hang in there and keep playing every day. It all gets easier and sounds better with time. Here is a video I made for beginners to learn chords. ua-cam.com/video/vKuzDFI5Ois/v-deo.html
Unfortunately elixir strings suck. The MARTIN phosphor bronze 010 set MA530T sounds way fatter then the Elixir. I've changed to the Martin set after working with the elixir for years.
I am writing this after making a research as a musician and a sound engineer. The only drawback the the Martin set has, is that the strings are a bit too rough to play and it takes time to get used to it, but on the contrary, I am willing to give up my comfort in order to get a better sound.
Thanks for the informative video.
Unfortunately, you're fcking wrong. Just because you don't like them, it doesn't mean they suck. Your "my way or the highway" attitude is what sucks.
Hey look at me! My way is the only way! I know more than all of you, because I do rEsEaRcH aS a MuSiCiAn and me is sOuNd eNgInEeR durrrrrrr!
I got a pair of the monel ones and I noticed the pain way faster. I play for hours at a time normally with very little pain and these I can go about 2 hours less and normal and my fingers are sore the next day. Been play for 12 years for context.
Hi, are you referring to uncoated strings? I found the coated ones online (my experience is uncoated die on me after 15 mi of playing). Cheers
Make cheap acoustic guitar sound better:
1. Replace everything but the body
2. Enjoy
$75.00???????????????????? Come to Brockton, Ma it will not cost near that much if there is no damage or bad assembly .
Sigma is actually a good guitar. ALL guitars will need a setup of some kind. Please get a proper set of setup tools to do it correctly.
I paid 60$ for a guitar it is shipping will it sound good even tho it is 60 dollars?
You may have to make some of the adjustments I describe, but yes, it’s possible for it to sound good. The most common thing is the neck might not be straight.
@@justinbishopmusic the neck is straight it says in the ad should I change the strings?
@@urosmiskovic5578 yes, they usually need changing once a month or so (after they start to rust a little). Daddario or Elixir is what I prefer. Light gauge. Phosphor bronze for acoustic.
@@justinbishopmusic Oh I just saw some cheap phosphor bronzes for 10$ in my local shop ( Btw I'm from Serbia so this price is average ) Thanks For the Tip!
@@urosmiskovic5578 if you wipe them off after each time you play, they will last longer, and I’ve heard you can take them off and boil them to last even longer. Good luck!
Someone did not want to buy new strings.
All those things look easy and inexpensive. Why doesn't the manufacturer do it?
Good question. I think it keeps their cost down, and if a cheap guitar is being shipped from overseas, temperature fluctuations in transit can throw it out of whack anyway. The bone nut and saddle are cheap to buy, but they aren’t shaped out of the box. The labor in the US for a luthier to do a bone nut is $100 or so. Much easier for a manufacturer to install a pre-fab nut. Same with saddle, though labor is cheaper for that.
Because the the manufacturer dont want it to be expensive.thats why it's cheap.if you add the new sadle nut + string and brige pin how much is your guitar + your cheap guitar .do you think its cheap anymore
@@justinbishopmusic Uh, no... Most people who sell bone nuts sell them with preset specs 🤦♂️ that's terrible info
@@ragnaroksangel maybe I’m stuck in the past! I remember only seeing uncut ones in the music store, but you’re right…looking online now, they’re much easier to come by already cut. Just make sure the specs are right! I’ve never tried to do one myself. Seems like it’s too precise and best left to the pros. 🤷♂️
Erm what the sigma
I appreciate you! However, I wish you gurus would not play the same music on endless repeat in the background. It's distracting and annoying.
Point taken. I thought it improved it when I was first making videos, but you’re right. Better to be better prepared and edit better than to slap on a background track to fill empty space.
It’s not that loud, man. I’ve heard worse
just bought a $60 Honey Bee awfully shitty guitar 2 days ago. Fully regretting it.
You paid 125 for guitar then 100 for the upgrades why not buy a better guitar for 225 dollars ive got a tanglewood and thats got a beutifull sound to it on parr with my friends £900 acoustic guitar..
This is a good point for sure. The only problem I see is that some of the 200-300 guitars have some of the same faults, so I guess it just comes down to picking one with the right components at any price range so that you don't have to spend more. But adjusting the truss rod and saddle are super cheap if you can do it yourself.
Its all about saving a cheap guitar to be playable.some people gumble to find nice cheap guitar.in the Philippines ther are many cheap guitar but fine quality nice sound and playable.not like china made
You're still going to have to pay for good parts no matter how much you spend. Even expensive guitars still have crappy plastic garbage on them.
129 dollars +100 for nut and saddle+70 for another replacement +12 for strings=311 dollars might as well buy a guitar worth 300$ and it will be just fine
Ik I need to change my strings the end of the year I will cause my parents don’t believe me
(That they need changing that is )
At least once a year! If you can buy Elixirs (light gauge nanoweb phosphor bronze), they will likely last the year.
how about brass pins?
I’ve heard they can brighten up the sound. I prefer bone or ebony.
@@justinbishopmusic I replaced mine with brass pins.I will try to find some bone pins and try them as well.
Elexers strings unravel
Can you stop the background music please
I got one for free off temu.
NO I BOUGHT A 200$ GUITAR THAT I DONT KNOW HOW TO PLAY >:0
the trussrod is not meant to adjust the action.......
But if it is not adjusted correctly, it affects the action.
Annoying music, and too loud.
It's not helping sir, thank you