I shot some in a jazz club last year, and have continued with FPP 200ASA B&W negative film. No matter how many "filters" you apply, nothing else looks quite like taking a clockwork 8mm camera into a gig and shooting on B&W film.
I’m not a motion picture shooter but I always carry a subminiature camera, either a Minox (8 X 11mm) or Minolta 16 (10 X 14mm), so small film formats are very much of interest to me.
Love your videos! So that noise from the Wolverine looks like the digital sharpness it adds when scanning. The only way I know how to get rid of it is to always go into the Sharpness setting and set it to low TWICE! That means when you turn it on, go into the sharpness setting and set it to low, exit and then go back in and set it again. I know this sounds stupid but I've had to do this on 2 different Wolverines.
Twice! Now that's a hack I will definitely try. I think the Wolverine has a problem with film that's already grainy, it seems to make the digital artifacts worse. Thanks for the tip!
@@ZeroBudgetFilmSchool I hope it helps! Just make sure you change the setting when you start it up. Go into the setting and if its already on low, set it to high, exit and then go back and set to low and exit again. Its bonkers but this is the only way I know how to make it stick. Wish i could afford a Lasergraphics HA!
Check out Pro 8mm in L A. They do a 'film out' service that does exactly that. Though I think it's to 16mm. Otherwise there's the old 'film a screen' method.
I have been following you for years, when you were developing a 16mm film, by caffeinol c, and the beginnings of your experiences, I learned things from you, was this film in the clip developed by caffeinol also, thank you,
Hey thanks for following! This was developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 or 11 minutes at 22°C. Rodinal is easy to get hold of on eBay and develops pretty much every black and white film.
Brilliant slo mo at the end there Ben. Love it.
Yeah definitely going to do more of that!
I shot some in a jazz club last year, and have continued with FPP 200ASA B&W negative film. No matter how many "filters" you apply, nothing else looks quite like taking a clockwork 8mm camera into a gig and shooting on B&W film.
I’m not a motion picture shooter but I always carry a subminiature camera, either a Minox (8 X 11mm) or Minolta 16 (10 X 14mm), so small film formats are very much of interest to me.
Love your videos! So that noise from the Wolverine looks like the digital sharpness it adds when scanning. The only way I know how to get rid of it is to always go into the Sharpness setting and set it to low TWICE! That means when you turn it on, go into the sharpness setting and set it to low, exit and then go back in and set it again. I know this sounds stupid but I've had to do this on 2 different Wolverines.
Twice! Now that's a hack I will definitely try. I think the Wolverine has a problem with film that's already grainy, it seems to make the digital artifacts worse. Thanks for the tip!
@@ZeroBudgetFilmSchool I hope it helps! Just make sure you change the setting when you start it up. Go into the setting and if its already on low, set it to high, exit and then go back and set to low and exit again. Its bonkers but this is the only way I know how to make it stick. Wish i could afford a Lasergraphics HA!
I wish it was possible to do a digital cut and finish back to Super 8 film. I do believe there is a company that prints to 35mm film.
Check out Pro 8mm in L A. They do a 'film out' service that does exactly that. Though I think it's to 16mm. Otherwise there's the old 'film a screen' method.
@@ZeroBudgetFilmSchool I will check that out. Thank you. Resolve will be used for editing.
grainy but beautifullllll
How can I PM you on UA-cam Ben ???. I have a proposition.
Sure, you can get in touch via the email on my website zerobudgetfilmschool.com
I have been following you for years, when you were developing a 16mm film, by caffeinol c, and the beginnings of your experiences, I learned things from you, was this film in the clip developed by caffeinol also, thank you,
Hey thanks for following! This was developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 or 11 minutes at 22°C. Rodinal is easy to get hold of on eBay and develops pretty much every black and white film.
The osnd on your video is a little too low.