I've done 6 different AR builds using both the Cerakote and the Duracoat. Hands down Its Duracoat all day long. Its a nicer finish than Cerakote and it isn't brittle like Cerakote. The one plus on Cerakote is you can build as soon as it cools off from the oven where with Duracoat you have to give it a couple days. At least 24 hours. A word of warning, some black anodizing can cause issues. My wife has a S&W MP-15 that she wanted redone. We did it in Duracoat German Blue with all stainless accents. The Duracoat didn't want to stay on the lower. I cleaned and Scotch Brighted the hell out of it. Acetone soaked it. The works and the damn coating pulled off on a piece of masking tape. Thats the only time I had that happen so I have to wonder what S&W did with their anodizing. So I invested in a blasting cabinet and took to blasting the hand guard, upper, lower and such. Then I used the 2 part with an airbrush. That did the trick. Now, before I coat metal parts, I blast first with 120 Aluminum Oxide to bare metal. It doesn't hurt aluminum at all. Then they get a short dunk in clean acetone, followed by coating 12 parts color to 1 part hardener. My last build I did in German Flecktarn Gray and H&K Black. I put on two coats of semi gloss clear over everything. It turned out fantastic. All my guns look as good as the day they were done. I've done wild pig and coyote hunts with them, carried them in the field in several states, countless range trips. They get used. The finish after a full cure (per Duracoat is 30 days) is very robust. I order all my stuff direct from them and the number of colors is mind numbing. They have a great web site and fast shipping. If you don't airbrush, I wouldn't hesitate using the rattle can but the colors are much more limited. Also, all my custom builds are on 80% lowers milling with the 80% Arms jig and the Porter Cable router. I've also done 2 AR Pistols. The last one is stunning. Well they both are. Its Rhodesian Tan and Magpul FDE. Like the good men at Liberty Marksman tell you, you won't save any money doing it this way, but the gun you have is one off and it's the way you want it. The rattle can stuff is very thin so go with several thin coats until it's well coated. You don't want to risk a run. I need a bigger safe. Lastly, a small, cut to shape double layer of Gorilla Tape over the deflector face will keep the ejected brass from chipping the finish if you are anal retentive like I am. Especially this chipping is an issue on 300 AAC Blackout guns like the one I built for Hogging in Texas. The 300 Blackout ejects harder than the .556 and is more prone to chipping the deflector face. After I'm done, I just peal it off before cleaning. I guess I'm the guy who likes to clean my guns. Pride in ownership I guess. Good luck and use Duracoat.
Liberty Marksman thanks for the great tutorial and follow up. I was on the fence about painting a new AR pistol build but now I'm definitely going to Duracoat it. Pretty shocked at how well it stands up to wear. Btw subbed + notification.
Just sprayed 4 lowers with one can. Three coats each. Not a single drop left over. So that might give you some idea of what one can will do. I love the coverage, the sheen is perfect. Not too flat not too shiny. I was very happy with the coverage in the mag well and I didn't even try to spray 'into' it at all. If it holds up well I'll pleased as punch.
Jay and Silent Bob so it safe to say your enginuity held up well besides your normal wear and tear. In combat/compt. the rifle will undergoe alot more. Thanks
Great videos, both the before and after. I’ve done a few of my Glocks using these kits and they have turned out great and held up really well. Also like the money I save doing it myself.
I've done 6 different AR builds using both the Cerakote and the Duracoat. Hands down Its Duracoat all day long. Its a nicer finish than Cerakote and it isn't brittle like Cerakote. The one plus on Cerakote is you can build as soon as it cools off from the oven where with Duracoat you have to give it a couple days. At least 24 hours. A word of warning, some black anodizing can cause issues. My wife has a S&W MP-15 that she wanted redone. We did it in Duracoat German Blue with all stainless accents. The Duracoat didn't want to stay on the lower. I cleaned and Scotch Brighted the hell out of it. Acetone soaked it. The works and the damn coating pulled off on a piece of masking tape. Thats the only time I had that happen so I have to wonder what S&W did with their anodizing. So I invested in a blasting cabinet and took to blasting the hand guard, upper, lower and such. Then I used the 2 part with an airbrush. That did the trick. Now, before I coat metal parts, I blast first with 120 Aluminum Oxide to bare metal. It doesn't hurt aluminum at all. Then they get a short dunk in clean acetone, followed by coating 12 parts color to 1 part hardener.
My last build I did in German Flecktarn Gray and H&K Black. I put on two coats of semi gloss clear over everything. It turned out fantastic. All my guns look as good as the day they were done. I've done wild pig and coyote hunts with them, carried them in the field in several states, countless range trips. They get used. The finish after a full cure (per Duracoat is 30 days) is very robust. I order all my stuff direct from them and the number of colors is mind numbing. They have a great web site and fast shipping. If you don't airbrush, I wouldn't hesitate using the rattle can but the colors are much more limited. Also, all my custom builds are on 80% lowers milling with the 80% Arms jig and the Porter Cable router. I've also done 2 AR Pistols. The last one is stunning. Well they both are. Its Rhodesian Tan and Magpul FDE. Like the good men at Liberty Marksman tell you, you won't save any money doing it this way, but the gun you have is one off and it's the way you want it. The rattle can stuff is very thin so go with several thin coats until it's well coated. You don't want to risk a run. I need a bigger safe.
Lastly, a small, cut to shape double layer of Gorilla Tape over the deflector face will keep the ejected brass from chipping the finish if you are anal retentive like I am. Especially this chipping is an issue on 300 AAC Blackout guns like the one I built for Hogging in Texas. The 300 Blackout ejects harder than the .556 and is more prone to chipping the deflector face. After I'm done, I just peal it off before cleaning. I guess I'm the guy who likes to clean my guns. Pride in ownership I guess. Good luck and use Duracoat.
Might be a long shot on a 2yr old comment but dura clear or no?
@@tonyprime754 I've used clear over the grey and it turned out fantastic. I'm still a Duracoat over Cerakote guy.
Just watched your Duracoat vid then you posted this. Thanks for the update. Looks great.
Thanks for watching.
Liberty Marksman thanks for the great tutorial and follow up. I was on the fence about painting a new AR pistol build but now I'm definitely going to Duracoat it. Pretty shocked at how well it stands up to wear. Btw subbed + notification.
Yeah, thanks for the update. Just saw both back to back.
Just sprayed 4 lowers with one can. Three coats each. Not a single drop left over. So that might give you some idea of what one can will do. I love the coverage, the sheen is perfect. Not too flat not too shiny. I was very happy with the coverage in the mag well and I didn't even try to spray 'into' it at all. If it holds up well I'll pleased as punch.
Jay and Silent Bob so it safe to say your enginuity held up well besides your normal wear and tear. In combat/compt. the rifle will undergoe alot more. Thanks
Helpful review. Gives me some confidence in my P80 build. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
IMHO it held up great.
You’re alive!!!!!!!!!
We are
Great videos, both the before and after. I’ve done a few of my Glocks using these kits and they have turned out great and held up really well. Also like the money I save doing it myself.
Thank you!
So what was the CURE TIME recommended by DuraCoat owners? Sounds like a good story..... I’ll be baking some cure time under some halogens. Thoughts?
And Dura Blue Nitre is the color I've been looking for.
I think if anyone was going to get results like this it would be you guys. You prepped it and did it right.
Thanks George!!!
About time you made a video!
Right slackers!!!!
Looks good! I might try it.
You should I think you will like it.
My cerakote looks nice but isn’t even applied on the inside of the upper or lower. Already lots of chipping along the Picatinny top. Still brand new
That can happen if not totally applied. It gives it an edge to start the chip.
glad to see someone due a followup video, held up super nice.
If it held up that good on the ar imagine other uses it could have🖒
That's true
UP TO 3 WEEKS ONCE MIXED IN THE AEROSOL CAN VERSION.....
have u used the shake and spray kit by chance? was looking at that
This one was coated with the rattle can kit.
Wow!!! Held up nice, is that the John Miculek Break??? Good Stuff!!!!
It really has. It's actually the Midwest Industries brake.
@@LibertyMarksmanUSA Right On!!!
I just heard about Duracoat today.
Goddamn jay n silent bob
Did you do a duracoat clear coat? Looks fantastic!
No that's how it shines out of the can.
i'm impressed!
Shits like $50 a can. It had better hold up for that price.
What happened to the add-on side charger?
Fantastic video! Man I missed you guys. Its soo refreshing to see you guys again!
What is Yfter?
Yetis lol
Can you colorfill the logo after using duracoat?
Yes you can.
What handguard is that?
What color is that?
Magpul fde
New subscriber. Great content.
Thank you!!
Why did you remove the DDC charging handle?
We broke the latch, it has been fixed and reinstalled.
Safety check your weapon guys!
Wait.. I need to know about the cure time now lmao
Only YOU can prevent socialism! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! LOVED THAT!
What color was it before?
Black anodized
duracoat vs cerakote
Why dura coat aluminum??
Why date brunettes?
@@mfowkles3142 Thx ;)