Few fun facts and FAQs: -Yes, I'm using a 100v step down transformer. I also run it through a surge protector, and completely air gap the whole setup when it's not in use. -The TV has 3, yes three, damper wires -I cleaned it after the filming video. I hadn't cleaned it yet at this point as I was considering filming the cleaning process and including it in the main video, but didn't -I have not done a total recap yet -I have not tested PAL, but it makes no mention of PAL anywhere, so I doubt it will work, but I will try at some point. -Allowing random people to see it is tricky because it's not particularly mobile, and bringing strangers to see it is effectively doxxing myself. -I am open to cataracts repair, but it is extremely risky so I am extremely hesitant to do so
This is not classic cataract, more like de-lamination. The safety glass itself might be a double layer laminated glass, and its layers might also in the process of de-lamination. Unless you find soneone who have done safety glass removal on Trinitrons, don't ever risk doing it. And if the safety glass itself is bad or breaks during removal, your only option will be to use it without safety glass. I don't think it would be dangerous, the tube surely has an implosion band too, so it won't implode spontenaously, they just added the glass as an extra layer of safety, because due to the huge size, in case of a screen impact the implosion band would probably unable to keep the pieces of the screen together. I would remove the front bezel, carefully clean the edge of the tube and check if there's some sealant around the edge where the safety glass meets the screen. If not, or if it looks deteriorated, I would apply some strong adhesive tape or acid free silicone sealant, to make sure dust won't be able to penetrate between the de-laminating layers.
You don't need the 100v transformer if the device has a switch mode power supply, which this monitor does. Sometimes there is a jumper wire or switch for 230v but not for 100/120v.
I'm not sure that's a cataract. Sony put an anti-glare tint film on those tubes, @RetroTechUSA has pulled damaged/discolored film off PVMs with nothing more than a razor blade.
@@coyote_den You might be right, but this is easy to test by pressing the de-laminated part. If it's just a plastic film, it will be flexible on that spot
Definitely do a recap on those power supplies! This is from an era when Sony used capacitors that turn leaky, even in their pro gear. I have a BVM-2010P and it had multiple leaking capacitors in the power supply, a few ELNA and the worst was IIRC a Nippon Chemicon in the -15V power supply. Despite it had only 15V across it, the leaking electrolyte caused carbon tracking and burnt up the board in a half inch diameter spot, which I had to dremel out, it also burnt up the coil of the -15V regulator which I had to re-wind. Replace all electrolytics in the power supplies and go through every board and replace at least every 105°C rated capacitors, those are the most likely to leak. Especially replace every ELNA which has 'Long Life' written on them, those are the worst ever, their electrolyte is super corrosive. Replace every Panasonic caps, even 85°C rated ones. The tiny yellow ELNAs are also prone to leak.
Not the top. There were 100 hertz TVs with vga, HDMI And the resolution is 720p. In the middle of 2000. Plus a flat screen. So this is not the top of the crt. And this is only the end of the 80s. Not even the technology of the 90s
@@shynodaa It's the biggest CRT ever made. These things have a vacuum in them, so good luck making a flat, widescreen TV this big. The closer to a bubble the tube is, the better. It has a 480p (essentially VGA) input. It doesn't need HDMI. Converting HDMI > VGA is easy, and all CRTs are analogue internally anyway.
@@turke765 I know all this without Wikipedia, my friend, calm down and don't cry. the fact that these are NOT top technologies in the creation of CRTs is just a fact and accept it if you are an adult. for example, it is much more difficult to create a flat screen than the usual convex one
This is the pinnacle of CRT tech made right at the peak of Sony, I am NOT fond of Sony and don't swear by aperture grille tubes/trinitrons, but I'd be a fool to not say that this monitor is nothing short of FREAKING AMAZING!!
I'm in your same camp. Also, as a SEGA fanboy I have even more reason to hate on Sony. But I do love my big beautiful 40" Sony Trinitron VVega KV-40XBR800, and how my classic games look on it.
Is there worth in subscribing to UA-camrs’ 2nd/side channels? Yes, and this is a perfect example of why! Appreciate the long form overview of this legendary CRT Shank!
Thank you so much for that additional deep dive! This is exactly my kind of content 😂 I like this almost as much as the other one on the main channel lol
What an amazing CRT, I love everything about it. I hope once you get it all dialed in You can clean The bits of dust and dirt and shine it up like the gem that it is
Thanks for the video on the main channel and tear down on this one. You have influenced me to pick up a Sony KV-40XBR800. That beast is going to be 304lbs.
Be mindful of the limitations of that set. It scales everything that is not 1080i to 1080i, and adds a few frames of latency. If you are planning on using it for 240p retro gaming, it is a very, very bad choice for that.
@MoreShankMods It's mainly going to be used for 6th and 7th generation consoles. I have a kv-27fs100l for the SNES and PS1. It would be interesting to see what those 5th generation would look like on such a big screen
The reason for the 12:30 is that some videos are videoed under low light colour temperature and by adjusting the setting will compensate the picture. That is a reasonable feature in the eighties.
In this case, MDP probably actually stands for “multi disc player”, and specifically refers to Sony’s MDP line of machines that could play all varieties of LaserDisc and CD. Some of them could even play both sides of a LaserDisc consecutively without manually flipping the disc over. This TV was made in 1989, whereas Sony didn’t even introduce the Minidisc until 1992.
It is a work of electronic engineering... I hope you continue uploading all the details of this giant television... how unfortunate it was to find out, through the other video, that one of the engineers who contacted; the company DOES NOT allow you to talk about this phenomenal team...
Sony Trinitrons had a beautful picture. The largest we had was a 27". I struggled to carry it to our local TV repair shop one day - think it needed a capacitor replaced. I had a 36" RCA and I remember the 40" Mitsubishi at the stores. That was the biggest. It was a chore when I had to carry the 36" RCA up and down staircases at around 180 pounds!! Of course these were not professional monitors. That is one, big Sony monitor you got there !!! Was it a popular model in the US ? The slide out/in tuner option is neat ! Sony always had the best remotes for TV and Audio products. Wow, they pulled out all the stops with that monitor !!
From what I've heard, it costs too much to make them and people also forgot how to make them.... Shame because I kinda want to start building custom CRTs for the heck of it.
we also had Trinitrons here in Uganda, as a young man, i grew up watching one in bording school. It was donated by the principle way back in the late 80s
Once you get this deep cleaned inside, fresh PSU caps, service menu tuned and colour calibrated, I'd look into adding an extra SCART input that is connected to a subpixel rendering scaler inside the set, directly wired to the internal RGB line, the subpixel rendering scaler board should be a 4X subpixel scale, which will give this set 4 virtual RGB subpixels per physical RGB subpixel, this will massively increase perceived resolution, and negate the fact that it's a larger screen which typically has a lower perceived resolution (subpixel-resolution), the GBS-C internally installed with a SCART output would be a great way to do this, it would also allow for some great extra image options, allow for running 16:9 aspect content in cropped full-screen 4:3 with decent image quality results, reinforce scanlines in desired for increased fidelity, motion adaptive deinterlacing for 480i to 240p or 480p, and if you wanted to, you could even wire in the HDMI as an input for the display, which will give you HDMI in with very decent image quality, which could be very useful for modern sources like Blu-ray, Switch, Laptop or Steam Deck and so on, and whilst your at it, why not internally install an RGB-Pi into the extra RGB input of the GBS-C, for built-in emulation for everything up to 7th gen, with immaculate image quality and processing thanks to DynaRes (RGB-Pi), with the GBS-C, you can also use your smartphone as a remote for the display. As a finishing touch, I'd upgrade the power input to a sine-wave filtered power input module, to provide stable clean power, which will provide the most stable image possible, with the least flickering or interference, which can be an issue with high-powered analogue AV equipment, it will all really help keep the tube as healthy as possible, and the electronics inside will benefit too. And I almost forgot to mention, I'd look into a smoked black tint film, as it really does improve the image and contrast quality of grey glass CRTs, the difference on my Sony PVM-20M4J with a black tint film is profound, it may not be as colour accurate for film editing or other pro uses with a black tint, but the blacks, colours and contrast looks so much better, it looks as good as a Sony Hi-Black Trinitron (black glass).
The luck and triumph involved in getting this 30+ yo rare tv/monitor safely to your parent’s garage from Japan is unbelievable, if this was a book or movie I’d call BS 😂 Right when you find it, they’re about to destroy it and move! I’m here for it all!
Dude! I swear I used to have the American version of this, mine definitely had the two component inputs and the tuner. This was about 12 years ago when I was collecting vintage video games. The guy I bought it from made sure to tell me how rare the thing was, that there were only 100 in the US, t definitely weight a TON. At the time I just thought he was doing hat to upsell me the TV and charge me the "vintage tax" on it. I used it for a while but at some point it just stop displaying images, it would still display the OSD but no image on any input. I did some research at the time and it looked like one of the Sony IC's was faulty, I tried to find it but it was completely impossible. Finally I had to dump it when I moved I had no idea it really was this rare, dang. I remember it having a superb picture, even compared to flat screens of the time, never mind vintage games, which yes it was glorious, but also watching movies and such.
Almost certainly not the last one in existence. Wealthy customers bought them new and any remaining units would likely be in a wealthy older person's home. They wouldn't care/know to post about it or take pictures, just like the previous owner of this one. A visitor is the one who posted it online and only had access because it was a business.
What's not to say that they haven't been picked up long ago for recycling? It's only fortunate that Japanese are very respectful about their belongings and have a very well taken care off second hand market.
Would love to see the cataracts issue be repaired so this tv can be as good as possible, someone like shango066 would be the best person to do something like that. Hes a tv wizard
This is a completely different glue compared to what Shango used to deal with, and seems like it is not really degrading (turning hazy and yellow/brown), 'just' delaminating. Not sure if it is removable with heat. I would definitely NOT risk doing it on this unique piece of history, until it becomes really bad. What I would do is to remove the front plastic frame , clean the edge of the CRT and run a very tough adhesive tape around it to seal it, to make sure dust can't get in beween the CRT face and the delaminating safety glass. Maybe it's a double layer, laminated safety glass, and the delamination occours between the two layers of the safety glass, and not (or not just) between the glass and the CRT face. Not sure if any glass company would custom make such curved, laminated safety glass, and even if they do, pretty sure they would deny laminating it onto the CRT. And even if all of this happens, not sure if the end result would be optically right. I guess there would be some hazard of implosion during the removal of the glass, but the higher risk is breaking the glass. If they manage to remove the glass without leaving marks on the screen, they can just use it without it. There's surely an implosion band on this CRT, so it won't implode spontaneously without the safety glass. Sony added the safety glass as an extra layer of protection, because due to the huge size, in case of an impact, the implosion band would probably be unable to hold the pieces of the screen together.
(maybe oblivious)Tip from ex-CRT warranty tech: Try to secure replacement flybacks/other HV parts if possible. Sony had a somewhat bad reputation (not the worst) for reliability with flybacks/splitters. Not saying this colossus will have this prob though..
Fun (and annoying) fact on Trinitrons - the bigger they are, the worse the geometry, purity, convergence, and edge focus they have.. They had a "recall" where they replaced the deflection yokes with "improved" yokes to anyone that complained but it didn't help a lot. I quit being a Sony ASC because of all the complaints.
That's true for all CRTs, not just Trinitrons. Picture tubes were made astigmatic by design or they just would have been impractically deep. I have a Philips K-40 tv that's impossible to focus on the edges and is only 26" wide.
@@UHF43 It's not true for all CRTs, at least not at the level that the Trinitron suffered. Better brands had dynamic focusing to counter astigmatism where the focus voltage was dynamically modulated to match the scan frequency. The flat faceplates had the most trouble with edge focusing, but the Trinitron was worse than most. The RCA Invar flat (almost) with the pre-yammed yoke CRTs were virtually perfect from a geometry, purity, and focus standpoint at 27" diagonal and under, and excellent on bigger tubes all the way to 36" (the biggest RCA (Thomson) made. As far as your Philips, I would have to see it, but there's always some give and take with focus - if yours is fine at viewing distances, it's a good tube. Sure, some customers are impossible to please, but with regard to larger Sonys, I was getting legitimate complaints.
@@ohger1 I remember Philips advertised the so-called SCAVEM system, that stood exactly for that: Scan Velocity Modulation. Here in Europe we also had Videocolor that manufactured the PIL-S4 picture tube and had very good convergence, geometry and focus. Then they developed the Super Planar that was a complete nightmare to try to adjust to something bereable. My Philips (one of them) has the 30-AX picture tube, so its early 80's. You can adjust for perfect center focus, but then the edges are really blurry.
It simply means 480 active horizontal lines per frame, and in this case 60 frames per second. CRTs can take arbitrary horizontal resolution as input, but what detail they can actually resolve is limited by the aperture grille and the density of the phosphor coating, measured in TVL. I'm very curious to know the TVL rating of this tube.
They were bought by wealthy people new. Would still be in some large homes owned by an older person who didn't use them much. High-end 90s homes would have cutouts/niches in the walls, in the original floorplan, specifically for the oversized CRT/projection TVs. This is where I have found similarly sized models. Up to everyone to find them. Estate sales may not take photos of them and new owners have them thrown away
Have you checked the speakers for foam rot ? And id check for dry solder jionts on those power supply units also be interesting to see what this tv uses to power the speakers was common for the larger tvs to use the infamous stk audio output module .
The cones/speakers themselves are excellent and have not rotted away. The aesthetic foam mesh between the speakers and the metal mesh has completely rotted away. I opened them up and cleaned them out.
Is the protective layer on the glass even structurally necessary? What I mean is, the real reason we need screen protectors on our phone is not to prevent the break itself, but to prevent scratches that will create weak points for the glass to break along when it is actually dropped. I think the same principle applies to this protective coating. There's no way it could be structurally important if it's held on by some weak glue, not in the case of a vacuum tube. Basically you just want to get that nasty old thing off and replace it with a large screen protector. You may want to ask your Sony engineer friends about the structural thing though, just to be safe. I think it's just to prevent scratches though.
Never seen those rear connectors before. No component or composite? If not using the tuner board in front, what does this tv actually used for? I have no idea how PVM works.
It does not have component inputs, but it has 3 composite inputs. It just uses a connector called "BNC" rather than RCA. It has composite, svideo, and RGB inputs
That's too bad about the cataract. I would be worried about the tube glass being strong enough to hold integrity without the safety glass. If you do consider doing it there is a guy in LA that has a channel that deals with removing safety glass.
The tube is also serial number 3. In my experience, it’s not unusual for the serial number on the chassis sticker, to be slightly different, sometimes by several digits, from the serial number on the back of the unit. It’s just carelessness at the factory, rather than anything more sinister (someone doing a ‘cut and shut’ by swapping bits around). Have a look at another PVM or BVM and you will probably find the same thing.
@@MoreShankMods Sony serial numbers are not always consecutive, sometimes a ‘1’ in the serial number sequence indicates a production change or revision, but the ‘1’ is normally closer to the ‘2’ ie 21xxxxx or 201xxxx If over 100 of these were manufactured, then there’s a good chance more are hiding out there, waiting to be discovered. On the other hand, they are 35 years old and take up a lot of space…
What a magnificent beast. What resolution does it top out at via VGA using the RGBHV input? Curious what refresh rate it can hit at 480p too. I really hope Sony will allow some engineers to talk to you about this. It’s a high point for Sony and they should celebrate the fact that enthusiasts care about it.
@ 960i is wild. I wonder if there was ever an HDVS widescreen prototype (1035i). Check out Reely interesting if you’re curious, they’ve connected a ton of 80s analog HD stuff.
Kids will never experience the excitement of getting a new tv in the living room and opening the shutter on the remote to access extras 😂 the buttons never did much
is the safety glass really that dangerous? if the glass gets evenly and slowly heated (to let the heat go through the thick glass) i would say it is safer, because glass only shatters from stress through uneven heating. you should talk to a glass maker for more informations
You may be forced to fix that cataracts issue sooner than you like to admit. the biggest problem with it is that the old glue ooze out from the protective glass and it seeps into everything and this stuff is very corrosive too. you can see this in your video the back of the tube is already getting tacky lines from it so it is already in a liquid state. this is a TV that deserves a complete restoration. I would die to have one myself. maybe talk to some people what can be done specifically for the cataracts. it is a risky but probably inevitable thing you need to deal with one day or another
not that big of a bummer to be honest crt enthusiast are just used to 0 lag most other types of screens all have lag and i dont think it would be that bad on this too probabbly like 100hz sets wich are not even that bad
@ygtx44 The point is that CRTs are prized by gamers for 0 lag (amongst other things). Would be a shame to ship 100Kg (or similar) from Japan, only to find it had undefeatable 100Hz circuitry. You couldn't play light gun games, for one thing. Though even here, you'd presumably need some kind of zero lag 240p > 480p convertor to get that to work properly. I suppose it would just need to insert a line of black after every 240p scanline.
I had a Sony 45" purchased in 1994... it was brutally heavy.... we had to unbox it and lay it in a reclined car seat to get it home from (think it was) SEARS.... at home, it couldn't be carried through the front door (house built in 1931) and we had to lay down a thick carpet and roll it in side over side and it barely passed - no extra room for any hands to be there at all. It sat atop a wooden steroe cabinet and always mushed the cabinet out of square. Once the kids were born, my wife said the risk of it falling for any reason and killing a child was completely unacceptable. It was brought to a Best Buy recycling spot in 2009 or 2010, still working. Kept a Sony approx 42" stored away since I have tons of analog equipment and 4:3 recordings that just look better on CRT than on a plasma at 4:3.
What if we use liquid or liquid glue, which is used to glue protective glass for smartphones and tablets? - Can you do an experiment with another CRT tube to restore the protective glass?
I guarantee it's not the last one, there are some old well to do people that still have them in their houses. As someone that does estate says, it's wild what old people still have around.
Few fun facts and FAQs:
-Yes, I'm using a 100v step down transformer. I also run it through a surge protector, and completely air gap the whole setup when it's not in use.
-The TV has 3, yes three, damper wires
-I cleaned it after the filming video. I hadn't cleaned it yet at this point as I was considering filming the cleaning process and including it in the main video, but didn't
-I have not done a total recap yet
-I have not tested PAL, but it makes no mention of PAL anywhere, so I doubt it will work, but I will try at some point.
-Allowing random people to see it is tricky because it's not particularly mobile, and bringing strangers to see it is effectively doxxing myself.
-I am open to cataracts repair, but it is extremely risky so I am extremely hesitant to do so
This is not classic cataract, more like de-lamination. The safety glass itself might be a double layer laminated glass, and its layers might also in the process of de-lamination. Unless you find soneone who have done safety glass removal on Trinitrons, don't ever risk doing it. And if the safety glass itself is bad or breaks during removal, your only option will be to use it without safety glass. I don't think it would be dangerous, the tube surely has an implosion band too, so it won't implode spontenaously, they just added the glass as an extra layer of safety, because due to the huge size, in case of a screen impact the implosion band would probably unable to keep the pieces of the screen together.
I would remove the front bezel, carefully clean the edge of the tube and check if there's some sealant around the edge where the safety glass meets the screen. If not, or if it looks deteriorated, I would apply some strong adhesive tape or acid free silicone sealant, to make sure dust won't be able to penetrate between the de-laminating layers.
You don't need the 100v transformer if the device has a switch mode power supply, which this monitor does. Sometimes there is a jumper wire or switch for 230v but not for 100/120v.
I would never risk the cataract repair, ever.
I'm not sure that's a cataract. Sony put an anti-glare tint film on those tubes, @RetroTechUSA has pulled damaged/discolored film off PVMs with nothing more than a razor blade.
@@coyote_den You might be right, but this is easy to test by pressing the de-laminated part. If it's just a plastic film, it will be flexible on that spot
here in my garage, got this new lamborghini here, but you know what I love more than this lamborghini, is this kx45ed1
I’m so glad it is finally here in america!
Anyone with the money can buy a lambo, but not this one ☝🏻
That's not how you pronounce Lamborghini
Lmao you unlocked my memory of Tai Lopez
I’m happy this monitor exists, and I’m happy that it ended up with you. Thank you for sharing the experience with all of us!
Definitely do a recap on those power supplies! This is from an era when Sony used capacitors that turn leaky, even in their pro gear. I have a BVM-2010P and it had multiple leaking capacitors in the power supply, a few ELNA and the worst was IIRC a Nippon Chemicon in the -15V power supply. Despite it had only 15V across it, the leaking electrolyte caused carbon tracking and burnt up the board in a half inch diameter spot, which I had to dremel out, it also burnt up the coil of the -15V regulator which I had to re-wind.
Replace all electrolytics in the power supplies and go through every board and replace at least every 105°C rated capacitors, those are the most likely to leak. Especially replace every ELNA which has 'Long Life' written on them, those are the worst ever, their electrolyte is super corrosive. Replace every Panasonic caps, even 85°C rated ones. The tiny yellow ELNAs are also prone to leak.
What an insane behemoth of a monitor. Truly the pinnacle of CRT technology and unrestrained hubris. The definition of "because we can"
Not the top. There were 100 hertz TVs with vga, HDMI And the resolution is 720p. In the middle of 2000. Plus a flat screen. So this is not the top of the crt.
And this is only the end of the 80s. Not even the technology of the 90s
@@shynodaa It's the biggest CRT ever made. These things have a vacuum in them, so good luck making a flat, widescreen TV this big. The closer to a bubble the tube is, the better.
It has a 480p (essentially VGA) input. It doesn't need HDMI. Converting HDMI > VGA is easy, and all CRTs are analogue internally anyway.
@@shynodaa always someone to chime in and flex their useless wikipedia knowledge nobody asked for
@@turke765 I know all this without Wikipedia, my friend, calm down and don't cry. the fact that these are NOT top technologies in the creation of CRTs is just a fact and accept it if you are an adult. for example, it is much more difficult to create a flat screen than the usual convex one
Bubble-era Japan condensed into one object.
Dear god that’s a chonker. So cool thanks for sharing!
This is the pinnacle of CRT tech made right at the peak of Sony, I am NOT fond of Sony and don't swear by aperture grille tubes/trinitrons, but I'd be a fool to not say that this monitor is nothing short of FREAKING AMAZING!!
I'm in your same camp.
Also, as a SEGA fanboy I have even more reason to hate on Sony.
But I do love my big beautiful 40" Sony Trinitron VVega KV-40XBR800, and how my classic games look on it.
The design and cable management is so clean. Looks like a dream to work on.
Clean this beast!
Wow, that’s a gigantic TV! Even bigger than the one I have in my basement. And also, that remote is friggin’ huge as well!
From last week after seeing that you are full video I just fell in love with that TV and I am always thinking about it❤😊
Is there worth in subscribing to UA-camrs’ 2nd/side channels?
Yes, and this is a perfect example of why!
Appreciate the long form overview of this legendary CRT Shank!
His last video on this channel was posted 5 years ago. This is why I never subs to "UA-camrs’ 2nd/side channels", I hate getting my sub box spammed.
Thank you so much for that additional deep dive! This is exactly my kind of content 😂 I like this almost as much as the other one on the main channel lol
I feel your joy from here. I would be the happiest person in the city if i had one of them.Really awesome😊
MDP = Multi Disk Player (Laser Disk and CD, no DVD)
...and CDV, and often karaoke functions which would be popular on a TV this big!
What an amazing CRT, I love everything about it. I hope once you get it all dialed in You can clean The bits of dust and dirt and shine it up like the gem that it is
Thanks for the video on the main channel and tear down on this one. You have influenced me to pick up a Sony KV-40XBR800. That beast is going to be 304lbs.
Be mindful of the limitations of that set. It scales everything that is not 1080i to 1080i, and adds a few frames of latency. If you are planning on using it for 240p retro gaming, it is a very, very bad choice for that.
@MoreShankMods It's mainly going to be used for 6th and 7th generation consoles. I have a kv-27fs100l for the SNES and PS1. It would be interesting to see what those 5th generation would look like on such a big screen
The reason for the 12:30 is that some videos are videoed under low light colour temperature and by adjusting the setting will compensate the picture.
That is a reasonable feature in the eighties.
Love these Sony crt monitors! That dynamic convergence is really cool! Thanks for sharing 👍
mdp on the remote stands for "mini disk player" , on the back of the tv are jacks for remote controll ur devices throught the tv with the ir remote
In this case, MDP probably actually stands for “multi disc player”, and specifically refers to Sony’s MDP line of machines that could play all varieties of LaserDisc and CD. Some of them could even play both sides of a LaserDisc consecutively without manually flipping the disc over. This TV was made in 1989, whereas Sony didn’t even introduce the Minidisc until 1992.
Gorgeous!!!😮
So impressive
It is a work of electronic engineering... I hope you continue uploading all the details of this giant television... how unfortunate it was to find out, through the other video, that one of the engineers who contacted; the company DOES NOT allow you to talk about this phenomenal team...
Sony Trinitrons had a beautful picture. The largest we had was a 27". I struggled to carry it to our local TV repair shop one day - think it needed a capacitor replaced. I had a 36" RCA and I remember the 40" Mitsubishi at the stores. That was the biggest. It was a chore when I had to carry the 36" RCA up and down staircases at around 180 pounds!! Of course these were not professional monitors.
That is one, big Sony monitor you got there !!! Was it a popular model in the US ?
The slide out/in tuner option is neat ! Sony always had the best remotes for TV and Audio products.
Wow, they pulled out all the stops with that monitor !!
Awesome tv. I wonder if 3M adhesive remover could get between the protection glass and the screen so you could safely remove it?
My Sony CRT gave up years ago. I currently have a Toshiba and will keep using it as long as it works. I wish CRT's would make a comeback.
From what I've heard, it costs too much to make them and people also forgot how to make them.... Shame because I kinda want to start building custom CRTs for the heck of it.
we also had Trinitrons here in Uganda, as a young man, i grew up watching one in bording school. It was donated by the principle way back in the late 80s
Once you get this deep cleaned inside, fresh PSU caps, service menu tuned and colour calibrated, I'd look into adding an extra SCART input that is connected to a subpixel rendering scaler inside the set, directly wired to the internal RGB line, the subpixel rendering scaler board should be a 4X subpixel scale, which will give this set 4 virtual RGB subpixels per physical RGB subpixel, this will massively increase perceived resolution, and negate the fact that it's a larger screen which typically has a lower perceived resolution (subpixel-resolution), the GBS-C internally installed with a SCART output would be a great way to do this, it would also allow for some great extra image options, allow for running 16:9 aspect content in cropped full-screen 4:3 with decent image quality results, reinforce scanlines in desired for increased fidelity, motion adaptive deinterlacing for 480i to 240p or 480p, and if you wanted to, you could even wire in the HDMI as an input for the display, which will give you HDMI in with very decent image quality, which could be very useful for modern sources like Blu-ray, Switch, Laptop or Steam Deck and so on, and whilst your at it, why not internally install an RGB-Pi into the extra RGB input of the GBS-C, for built-in emulation for everything up to 7th gen, with immaculate image quality and processing thanks to DynaRes (RGB-Pi), with the GBS-C, you can also use your smartphone as a remote for the display.
As a finishing touch, I'd upgrade the power input to a sine-wave filtered power input module, to provide stable clean power, which will provide the most stable image possible, with the least flickering or interference, which can be an issue with high-powered analogue AV equipment, it will all really help keep the tube as healthy as possible, and the electronics inside will benefit too. And I almost forgot to mention, I'd look into a smoked black tint film, as it really does improve the image and contrast quality of grey glass CRTs, the difference on my Sony PVM-20M4J with a black tint film is profound, it may not be as colour accurate for film editing or other pro uses with a black tint, but the blacks, colours and contrast looks so much better, it looks as good as a Sony Hi-Black Trinitron (black glass).
The luck and triumph involved in getting this 30+ yo rare tv/monitor safely to your parent’s garage from Japan is unbelievable, if this was a book or movie I’d call BS 😂 Right when you find it, they’re about to destroy it and move! I’m here for it all!
Can we take a moment to admire just amazing it is that the circuit boards fold out so you can service both the front and the back?
If I did my calculations right, the beam is flying across that screen at ~61,568mph
Would like to see more of the tuner, including the connections on the back and how it hooks up to the monitor.
Top Excellemt........
Dude! I swear I used to have the American version of this, mine definitely had the two component inputs and the tuner. This was about 12 years ago when I was collecting vintage video games. The guy I bought it from made sure to tell me how rare the thing was, that there were only 100 in the US, t definitely weight a TON. At the time I just thought he was doing hat to upsell me the TV and charge me the "vintage tax" on it. I used it for a while but at some point it just stop displaying images, it would still display the OSD but no image on any input. I did some research at the time and it looked like one of the Sony IC's was faulty, I tried to find it but it was completely impossible. Finally I had to dump it when I moved I had no idea it really was this rare, dang. I remember it having a superb picture, even compared to flat screens of the time, never mind vintage games, which yes it was glorious, but also watching movies and such.
Congratulations.
Almost certainly not the last one in existence. Wealthy customers bought them new and any remaining units would likely be in a wealthy older person's home. They wouldn't care/know to post about it or take pictures, just like the previous owner of this one. A visitor is the one who posted it online and only had access because it was a business.
I certainly hope so. Would love for more of these to pop up! The idea of owning the last one is scary
What's not to say that they haven't been picked up long ago for recycling? It's only fortunate that Japanese are very respectful about their belongings and have a very well taken care off second hand market.
Wealthy person would have replaced it with a widescreen plasma at the time.
@@UnCoolDad Yeah, the sort of loaded early adopter that bought one of these would have chucked it out 2 decades ago in favour of a flat panel.
How awesome would it be to see this beast in action. Any chance of seeing this happen in the near future?
This is how it looks when you let engineers do their best and not worry about the cost of the product.
Bro, please please please please please please give us more content regarding this set. I NEED TO KNOW MORE.
What a beaut!!!!
So it's not your standard SCART connector?
Would it even work with PAL signals?
definitely a new meaning to the word Sony like no other
This is probably the most intersting CRT in the world... Also seems to be extremely rare! Is this possibly the only one?
Would love to see the cataracts issue be repaired so this tv can be as good as possible, someone like shango066 would be the best person to do something like that. Hes a tv wizard
This is a completely different glue compared to what Shango used to deal with, and seems like it is not really degrading (turning hazy and yellow/brown), 'just' delaminating. Not sure if it is removable with heat. I would definitely NOT risk doing it on this unique piece of history, until it becomes really bad. What I would do is to remove the front plastic frame , clean the edge of the CRT and run a very tough adhesive tape around it to seal it, to make sure dust can't get in beween the CRT face and the delaminating safety glass.
Maybe it's a double layer, laminated safety glass, and the delamination occours between the two layers of the safety glass, and not (or not just) between the glass and the CRT face. Not sure if any glass company would custom make such curved, laminated safety glass, and even if they do, pretty sure they would deny laminating it onto the CRT. And even if all of this happens, not sure if the end result would be optically right.
I guess there would be some hazard of implosion during the removal of the glass, but the higher risk is breaking the glass. If they manage to remove the glass without leaving marks on the screen, they can just use it without it. There's surely an implosion band on this CRT, so it won't implode spontaneously without the safety glass. Sony added the safety glass as an extra layer of protection, because due to the huge size, in case of an impact, the implosion band would probably be unable to hold the pieces of the screen together.
I was so confused on this was the largest TV because my buddy had a bigger one in 2003. But this is a CRT, not a home tube TV.
(maybe oblivious)Tip from ex-CRT warranty tech: Try to secure replacement flybacks/other HV parts if possible. Sony had a somewhat bad reputation (not the worst) for reliability with flybacks/splitters. Not saying this colossus will have this prob though..
i am envious
Fun (and annoying) fact on Trinitrons - the bigger they are, the worse the geometry, purity, convergence, and edge focus they have.. They had a "recall" where they replaced the deflection yokes with "improved" yokes to anyone that complained but it didn't help a lot. I quit being a Sony ASC because of all the complaints.
That's true for all CRTs, not just Trinitrons. Picture tubes were made astigmatic by design or they just would have been impractically deep. I have a Philips K-40 tv that's impossible to focus on the edges and is only 26" wide.
@@UHF43 It's not true for all CRTs, at least not at the level that the Trinitron suffered. Better brands had dynamic focusing to counter astigmatism where the focus voltage was dynamically modulated to match the scan frequency. The flat faceplates had the most trouble with edge focusing, but the Trinitron was worse than most. The RCA Invar flat (almost) with the pre-yammed yoke CRTs were virtually perfect from a geometry, purity, and focus standpoint at 27" diagonal and under, and excellent on bigger tubes all the way to 36" (the biggest RCA (Thomson) made. As far as your Philips, I would have to see it, but there's always some give and take with focus - if yours is fine at viewing distances, it's a good tube. Sure, some customers are impossible to please, but with regard to larger Sonys, I was getting legitimate complaints.
@@ohger1 I remember Philips advertised the so-called SCAVEM system, that stood exactly for that: Scan Velocity Modulation. Here in Europe we also had Videocolor that manufactured the PIL-S4 picture tube and had very good convergence, geometry and focus. Then they developed the Super Planar that was a complete nightmare to try to adjust to something bereable. My Philips (one of them) has the 30-AX picture tube, so its early 80's. You can adjust for perfect center focus, but then the edges are really blurry.
What does 480p mean? What resolution in dots/pixels is that?
It simply means 480 active horizontal lines per frame, and in this case 60 frames per second.
CRTs can take arbitrary horizontal resolution as input, but what detail they can actually resolve is limited by the aperture grille and the density of the phosphor coating, measured in TVL. I'm very curious to know the TVL rating of this tube.
Iirc I measured about 600-650TVL, but right now it's bottlenecked by the horizontal convergence. I bet it could be higher with some more tuning.
Awesome!
Do I detect a touch of jealousy in some of the comments! 😂
Great work mate, it is a joy coming along on your journey with this!
let me hear that degaussing🙏🙏
29:25 casually saying this like there's still another KX45ED1/PVM4300 sitting untouched on someone else's living room or an abandoned house lmao
i bet there’s a few more
They were bought by wealthy people new. Would still be in some large homes owned by an older person who didn't use them much. High-end 90s homes would have cutouts/niches in the walls, in the original floorplan, specifically for the oversized CRT/projection TVs.
This is where I have found similarly sized models. Up to everyone to find them. Estate sales may not take photos of them and new owners have them thrown away
Probably one of the last, if not THE last one in existence
YOOO🗣️🗣️🔥🔥
Mother of all CRTs
Have you checked the speakers for foam rot ? And id check for dry solder jionts on those power supply units also be interesting to see what this tv uses to power the speakers was common for the larger tvs to use the infamous stk audio output module .
I think it might have used external speakers guessing by the spring clip terminals at the back
And the amplifier is probably one of the boards on the lower right side
The cones/speakers themselves are excellent and have not rotted away. The aesthetic foam mesh between the speakers and the metal mesh has completely rotted away. I opened them up and cleaned them out.
Will this do 240p?
That's a *HEFTY BOI*
Is the protective layer on the glass even structurally necessary? What I mean is, the real reason we need screen protectors on our phone is not to prevent the break itself, but to prevent scratches that will create weak points for the glass to break along when it is actually dropped. I think the same principle applies to this protective coating. There's no way it could be structurally important if it's held on by some weak glue, not in the case of a vacuum tube. Basically you just want to get that nasty old thing off and replace it with a large screen protector. You may want to ask your Sony engineer friends about the structural thing though, just to be safe. I think it's just to prevent scratches though.
Implosion is my intrusive thought
Does it support 576p50 as well or just 480p60?
576p50 with "PAL speedup" from 24fps to 25fps would be amazing for watching old TV-shows
I suspect it will support PAL if decoded to R.G.B. line frequency is close enough.
@gladiammgtow4092 Yeah the frequency is the same. That's why I mentioned the resolution and not the color system because I doubt it supports PAL
Never seen those rear connectors before. No component or composite? If not using the tuner board in front, what does this tv actually used for? I have no idea how PVM works.
It does not have component inputs, but it has 3 composite inputs. It just uses a connector called "BNC" rather than RCA. It has composite, svideo, and RGB inputs
What's in the pipeline for this set? Restoration, cleaning and recap work?
Is the connector SCART or JP21? I figure the latter...
(just as I type this, what you're saying @13:40 you seem to indicate it IS JP21)
I believe it's jp21
@@MoreShankMods thanks for confirming. Happy you were able to get your hands on it before it was possibly destroyed!
That's too bad about the cataract. I would be worried about the tube glass being strong enough to hold integrity without the safety glass. If you do consider doing it there is a guy in LA that has a channel that deals with removing safety glass.
The tube is also serial number 3. In my experience, it’s not unusual for the serial number on the chassis sticker, to be slightly different, sometimes by several digits, from the serial number on the back of the unit. It’s just carelessness at the factory, rather than anything more sinister (someone doing a ‘cut and shut’ by swapping bits around). Have a look at another PVM or BVM and you will probably find the same thing.
I'm fairly certain it's 103. I have a service manual amendment (granted, it's for the 4300 not the kx45) that references numbers below 100
@@MoreShankMods Sony serial numbers are not always consecutive, sometimes a ‘1’ in the serial number sequence indicates a production change or revision, but the ‘1’ is normally closer to the ‘2’ ie 21xxxxx or 201xxxx
If over 100 of these were manufactured, then there’s a good chance more are hiding out there, waiting to be discovered. On the other hand, they are 35 years old and take up a lot of space…
How much for the vintage Japanese dust, bro?
What a magnificent beast. What resolution does it top out at via VGA using the RGBHV input? Curious what refresh rate it can hit at 480p too. I really hope Sony will allow some engineers to talk to you about this. It’s a high point for Sony and they should celebrate the fact that enthusiasts care about it.
It's 31khz 60hz only. So it tops out at 480p or 960i
@ 960i is wild. I wonder if there was ever an HDVS widescreen prototype (1035i). Check out Reely interesting if you’re curious, they’ve connected a ton of 80s analog HD stuff.
WOW 👑 SONY GOD FOREVER 🥇✌️👑
Considering this TV came from Japan, I'm surprised the text on the controls is in English.
i wonder how much would a CRT this rare would cost nowadays ?
Where do you live? I'd love to go to an event to see it
The first thing I would do would be to clean the TV. But... we are not the same..
same bro
Cleaning the internals is far more important
Kids will never experience the excitement of getting a new tv in the living room and opening the shutter on the remote to access extras 😂 the buttons never did much
is the safety glass really that dangerous?
if the glass gets evenly and slowly heated (to let the heat go through the thick glass)
i would say it is safer, because glass only shatters from stress through uneven heating.
you should talk to a glass maker for more informations
With 8T of air pressure on the front (and rear cone), yes!
biggest crt i have repaired was 40" if i recall correctly a monster to get on the bench lol, this was about 2007 in toronto
i absolutely recommend a full recap..
will take for ever trust me this man definitly knows what he is doing and that may not be necessary
Do not fix what is not broken
@@thcoura exact! WELL SAYED SIR
I had one,needed 2 people to lft it ! picture collapsed on ours !
you realy had one ?
MDP is most likely MiniDisc Player.
CRT Safety Lens glue is called PVA, Polyvinyl acetate glue
You may be forced to fix that cataracts issue sooner than you like to admit. the biggest problem with it is that the old glue ooze out from the protective glass and it seeps into everything and this stuff is very corrosive too. you can see this in your video the back of the tube is already getting tacky lines from it so it is already in a liquid state. this is a TV that deserves a complete restoration. I would die to have one myself. maybe talk to some people what can be done specifically for the cataracts. it is a risky but probably inevitable thing you need to deal with one day or another
Good to know. I will genuinely keep this in mind. I may pursue it if I find an expert willing to be present and help me make sure it is done correctly
imagine how much of a bummer it would be if there were no lag free mode 🤪
not that big of a bummer to be honest crt enthusiast are just used to 0 lag most other types of screens all have lag and i dont think it would be that bad on this too probabbly like 100hz sets wich are not even that bad
@ygtx44 The point is that CRTs are prized by gamers for 0 lag (amongst other things). Would be a shame to ship 100Kg (or similar) from Japan, only to find it had undefeatable 100Hz circuitry. You couldn't play light gun games, for one thing. Though even here, you'd presumably need some kind of zero lag 240p > 480p convertor to get that to work properly. I suppose it would just need to insert a line of black after every 240p scanline.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ chúc mừng năm mới
Wouldn't it be funny if because of this video you discovered another one at an estate sale in your town.
yo that tv well beffy
You need a point of reference when photographing this TV. Without one, it doesn't look any different from a 27-inch.
Ya..sy jg pernah dapat servisan tv Sony ini, sangat rumit ribet,... karena pertama kali,thn 2000an servis tv sony layar gede jg berat...😇
I had a Sony 45" purchased in 1994... it was brutally heavy.... we had to unbox it and lay it in a reclined car seat to get it home from (think it was) SEARS.... at home, it couldn't be carried through the front door (house built in 1931) and we had to lay down a thick carpet and roll it in side over side and it barely passed - no extra room for any hands to be there at all. It sat atop a wooden steroe cabinet and always mushed the cabinet out of square. Once the kids were born, my wife said the risk of it falling for any reason and killing a child was completely unacceptable. It was brought to a Best Buy recycling spot in 2009 or 2010, still working. Kept a Sony approx 42" stored away since I have tons of analog equipment and 4:3 recordings that just look better on CRT than on a plasma at 4:3.
Servicec Freundlich 🙂
I think I'll stick with my 13 inch Sanyo lol.
The things filthy mate you should give it all a proper cleaning
What if we use liquid or liquid glue, which is used to glue protective glass for smartphones and tablets? - Can you do an experiment with another CRT tube to restore the protective glass?
I guarantee it's not the last one, there are some old well to do people that still have them in their houses. As someone that does estate says, it's wild what old people still have around.
I wouldn’t call it cataracts. I wouldcall it delamination
Why would a CRT need deinterlacing in the first place?
I suppose to reduce flicker. If you're up close you can easily see distinct scanlines, each of which normally flickers at only 30Hz.
Tate mode ?
Doing so would register on the Richter scale
LOL
@@MoreShankMods Your on a roll as the reveal story was seismic.
I had a 50" CRT TV
That would of been a rear projection set which can use crt tech but isn't an actual direct view crt
When you are going to feature such a complex piece of gear,
you owe it a well-organised, well-scripted narration And a tripod-mounted camera.
See: my main video on my main channel
did you get that tv from a rest that was closing down in japan?
What are you talking about? What is all this junk, where is the hdmi?