Learning how to use my Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2024
- Thanks to GeekAndDad, I have my first oscilloscope! Now I'll have to learn how to use it.
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Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope: amzn.to/43C3v5m
TTL ICs: amzn.to/40WH75c
Assortment of push buttons: amzn.to/4a1A0Mv
BB830 Solderless Breadboards: amzn.to/3TkNPOY
Breadboard kit with components: amzn.to/3MYwfho
Power supply: amzn.to/3uAYxIE
Multimeter: amzn.to/49PUg45
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(Maybe you and/or someone you know will like them!) - Наука та технологія
02:27 since you're working with a lot of digital stuff, all the complex triggers and the 100MHz bandwidth (if you hack it, which is very easy to do) will certainly not be overkill :)
The 4 channels are also extremely nice, keep in mind the DS1054Z will get a bit slow when all 4 of em are turned on, and when you also turn on the FFT it'll become barely useable. I've got a DHO804 (which is a lot nicer) but a DS1054Z is also more than enough for electronics beginners. As a tip, set the probes to 1X when measuring very small signals (current trough a resistor, transistor saturation voltage, etc) and 10X for everything else, since on 10X the bandwidth is much higher.
Rigol themselves have videos on YT on how to use most features of the oscilloscope, but most stuff is universal to all digital oscilloscopes.
That decaying sinusoid on the falling edge (that seems to go below zero) is characteristic of a low pass filtered square wave. Sometimes its called ringing. Look up Fourier transforms--a square wave is mathematically an infinite sum of sine waves. As you remove the higher frequencies, the edges develop that ringing.
Or it is simply the switch bouncing.
That was great, I'm glad you have an oscilloscope now!
FWIW, it looks like you were always triggering on the rising edge of the signal (including the bounces). Modern scopes have many different trigger modes and features, and it's well worth exploring them so you can capture just what you need when you're troubleshooting something. The basics are one edge or the other (or both), but you can usually also trigger based on pulse width (for example, just to catch those short glitches), slopes, signals in between two levels, etc.
Another thing that gets used a lot is the trigger mode; you saw Auto (where it shows a continuous signal if no triggers happen) and Single. There's also Normal, which will do a new capture (and then wait) every time it is triggered. That's a good one if you wanted to keep hitting the button over and over and looking at each one.
You can also take measurements on the screen by setting cursors, or have it automatically calculate things like frequency, amplitude, etc.
AS he said, BUT READ THE MANUAL PLEASE, it does not disappoint!
That was a great video on the basics of an oscilloscope and it was cool to see that bounce right there on the screen!
Thank you for sharing your learning experience. This makes me want an oscilloscope even more. Take care.
You can put the trigger in Rising Edge, Falling Edge or even both and then leave the trigger in the middle of the voltage range.
Excellent little camera swap swivel you've made there! Now two cameras and some video editing and you'd look professional AF. :D Actually it's still pretty sweet regardless.
This was fun to watch. Can't wait to watch you figure out the oscilloscope some more.
Clever camera hinge solution!
That “sloshing” you see is known as “ringing.” As for what causes it, I think maybe stray capacitance and inductance (perhaps due to long wires, the way the breadboard is constructed, etc.).
You can see the effects of some capacitance, where the rising part of the bounce is a smooth curve, but the falling part is much steeper and straighter.
And I’ll bet that dip of about a volt when you moved your finger to the button is your body capacitively coupling to the switch (like your phone’s touch screen), and picking up electromagnetic signals nearby.
Very cool!
Yeah a few breadboard fixes can be done, termination resistors (typically around 22ohms inline [you are supposed to do a calculation but forget that on a breadboard]), wrapping a ground wire around the signal wires (simulates having a ground plane), etc. But in the end at the frequencies you'll be working with on most breadboard projects, not worth it. Until you go crazy big and extend your clock line over a massive distance.
Inductance, capacitance, etc... That is your ringing when you press that button. The non reducing osciallations you see are the bounce, if you look at the end of each bounce you still see ringing.
oh, that's cool! I need to get one! -- nice video. Us noobs need these real basic explanations to learn. -- I do have a HANDTEK 6022 BE. A USB oscilloscope. I have been able to learn a few things w/ it. But I need a much nicer scope.
Nice scope, loved it. I just upgraded mine to the MSO5104 as I wanted the LA interface and a bigger screen.
ooh that looks fancy!
@@bigzaphodIt is nice, total overkill (once, erm, modified) but nice to own.
Rigol DS1054Z is werry good scope , lot of function and fast interface , lot of signal decoding , i have this model and im happy . Bonus this scope can be program to 100Mhz verry easy
this scope have for example i2c decoding , with 3 channel you can see for example shifting out some data from arduino, or simple pwm modulation with 555 timer
VERY VERY easily ;)
Triggering is when the oscilloscope starts drawing the trace.
There's multiple possible ways to synchronize tracing (drawing the line from left to right) of which one is by "trigger". And that trigger source can be for example when the line reaches the right side of the display (then it triggers in certain frequency based on the current "time base" of the display) or it can trigger based on some other event, like if the voltage PASSES the said trigger point, and you can set it such that the drawing doesn't start again until user says otherwise (single shot) etc. etc.
Just triggering of the drawing is a topic in itself and by using clever triggering you can capture all kinds of events and filter out anything you're not interested in.
But using oscilloscope need understanding on what you're actually doing, what you're interested in and HOW to capture that piece of information. It's very difficult to fumble int he dark and one can easily misunderstand what's actually going on in their circuit unless they understand how the oscilloscope is set up.
Get's even more fun when triggering off an LA, patterns, etc.
I wonder if you could use a second channel for this and set a trigger up on a second channel to get the rising edge along with the falling edge.
No need too, it supports rising, fall, both edges.
Curious if there is a way to see the full transition both directions. Like two triggers (or maybe two probes with different triggers? Can it do that?). Or a wider capture window around a single trigger?
Hmm! I don't know if it can do that. There are quite a lot of menus and options, so maybe there's something hidden somewhere.
@@bigzaphodIt can, rise+fall trigger. Just make sure you have increased you time base out to get a good sample range as it may trigger on either. Then you can zoom in and observe.
First 3 minutes are useless...get to the point.
It's a great scope, should serve you well.
I strongly suggest you read the manual though! :)
@@stevenbliss989oh yeah. Once, erm, unlocked this thing is quite powerful.
Yep, have one myself for some eight years, unlocked it all and scope still going strong, TOTALLY LOVE IT! :) :) :)
I am pining for the DH804 and to unlock all and add ARB & LA hardware (yeah need to do some case cutting), but I have to wait! :( @@JoannaHammond