Air Conditioning Diagnosis. Iced up expansion valve due to moisture in system
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
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Air Conditioning Diagnosis. Iced up expansion valve due to moisture in system
I love how you break things down and go through the diagnosis for us it really makes a world of difference thanks
Best AC condition diagnosis and explanation I've seen yet!
Thanks!
Dude, blowing air at your hand, that is the best way to explain how a/c work. You are so smart and nice.
Awesome explanation . After 30 years in automotive field , simple audio/visual explanation of what an expansion valve does in a way I will never forget . Thanks & keep up to good work
I had no reason to watch this but you explain things so well I thought I might as well learn something
thank you for all the video's i go to school for 7 hours a day and sometimes just cant understand the 360 loop around things hop on your channel very well explained thanks for your time!
Well I'd be honored to be your friend. I just turned 51 and I can tell you in all my years I've met very few guys of your character and skill. Working on cars has only been a hobby for me so when I see your work I'm in awe. Learning how to repair cars involves a lot of trial and error and since I've rarely done the same repair on the same car twice it's been a whole lot of error. I did put seven axles in my 70 datsun roadster because the first 6 from scrap yards were bent so I got good at that.
Best description of the high pressure and low pressure I've heard yet! This is helping me diagnose my issue!
I usually explain it to the customer this way: When the pressurized refrigerant is pushed through the small orfice, the heat is left behind on the pressurized side. It is then dissipated by blowing cooler air through it. Basically you are removing heat from inside the car and leaving it outside, the a/c is a heat exchanger.
Good video.
Excellent job!! I am not a tech but learned over the years that cleaning the condenser is 90% of an AC maintenance job. Also maintaining a quality belt on the engine permits the accessories to function properly--which of course includes the AC compressor. My current problem is trying to figure out a way to clean the condenser on my sister in laws 1997 Taurus. Ford has made access to the condenser and radiator (either side) on this car practically impossible.
This man knows his stuff. I've watched alot of his videos. Brian I'm feeding off your brain!
Thanks for all the info. Explained it very well. A friend told me I needed to replace th expansion valve in my 2004 galant but when I go to look for one online and in the store they look similar to but not exactly the same as my friend pulled out. I figure I just need to go to the dealer and get the part there. I know they said it's about 80 bucks there. We evacuated the system and charged with some refrigerant using a machine he has. Works fine for about a day then goes hot again.
He checked for leaks in he lines and didn't see any but he mentioned maybe I needed to replace the nozzles or whatever u call them. I don't know. Just hope to fix it before summer.
Thank you for that simple explanation of the AC system. Now I understand why every part has the name that it does.
I flattered. I've also been through a lot in life thus far too. Thanks.
Looks like an accumulator I see there if I'm not mistaken. If that is the case, then this system doesn't have an expansion valve, but rather has an orifice tube instead. Just an observation.
Technically speaking the orifice tube is an expansion valve. It just won't adjust itself to anything
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test to me, is high level diagnosing, I failed it once so back to learning.
Thank You
That was funny when explaining pressure drop and you said something but it wasnt making textbook sense, and then you say Thats just the way it is, lol classic
thanks man love your videos
Thank you very much! Having an issue with low side low and barely cool air. When I'm idling the low side pressure remains, but when I start driving it eventually becomes warm and low side pressure becomes very low. Low side lines are condensation and tons of water dripping from the evap drain tube. Definitely freezing going on. I'm trying to figure out whether it's a stuck expansion valve or if there's moisture within the system. Low side was within range, but on the low end when idling before taking a drive. It was definitely opened before and I have all the reasons to believe it was neglected so they may not have vacuumed the system of moisture. Will rent gauges and vacuum pump and report back to get a real idea. Might just evacuate, vacuum, and recharge and see if I can get away with that since I'm not savvy enough to differentiate between the possible issues. Thanks again! Your video was very helpful.
You explain it in such an intelligent way making it easy to understand something so complicated. I'm prepping for the HVAC ASE test and that test is high level diagnosing
Thank You
Thanks for the good explanation there Brian! Now I understand how AC is recirculated in a more logical way. Thanks Again...
Marc
holy crap iv been waiting for a video about the a/c and u just explain it so well which is a plus unlike all these other videos iv wasted my time on
It may be worth a try. I generally don't use the treatments. I'd try synthetic on the next oil change like a 0W30. My philosophy is to fix the problem. If an engine is dirty- clean it. If it's worn out- rebuild or replace it.
..and fast approaching "that" time of year again-
Great vid!
Thanks
hey love the refrigerant shuttle bus explanation, I may have to borrow that one!
excellent explanation of the a/c system Brian! i swear you should have your own t.v. show. Always impressed by your knowledge. cool Waterton Lakes shirt.
I have watched several of your videos and find them to be helpful. Thanks
Hey Brian good clip helpful info, really appreciate it . I must mention too that I liked the example you made with YOUR MOUTH, VERY convincing
Yes there is. Sanden compressors have a pressure relief valve, and it pops when the system is overcharged to protect the seals.
Thank you! I remember the lesson, but couldn't remember exactly why.
BRIAN, EXCELLENT DIAGNOSIS, EXCELLENT VIDEO THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
Refrigerant can carry or suspend only so much oil. The manufacturer will specify the amount of oil, but it's roughly a given percentage of the refrigerant by weight. Most systems that are 1kg charge with have 6-7 oz of oil. A big system like on a van or Suburban with have close to 12 oz of oil and a 2kg charge.
Excellent explanation. My 2015 Mustang is having A/C cooling problems and my dealer is replacing the expansion valve today. A new compressor and collector did not solve the issue. Hope this does the trick.
great video and love the Ron Paul TRUTH picture in the back. I want it!
here's one for you. Nice video btw. I just replaced condenser, receiver drier, and expansion valve. pulled a vacuum for an hour and a half and charged it. It got nice and cold, worked great till I turned it of and the compressor started to cycle on and off at idle. cools down while I run it on the freeway or a long stretch of street. But on stop and go traffic, it gets hot. I replaced the condenser because it was in bad shape and was painted from overspray and the reason that started this whole a/c problem. went on and changed the expansion valve. Still have the same problem. Maybe you can shed some light. 2000 camry v6.
Yes. The fittings are also a distinct indicator
I don't use a water hose under the hood for any reason other then what Brian did in this video. if you feel the need to clean under the hood use a rag and spray the cleaner on the rag. This way you wont have any problems getting anything to wet.
Thank you for sharing your a/c knowledge. I had the exact same thing happen on a Jeep I owned years back.
thank you, love how u break it down in explain it.. i understand a lot better.. thank you
It depends on the car and LARGELY on what type of ignition system it has. Generally you don't want water sprayed at pressure into a spark plug boot well. Nor do you want to spray a distributor cap. Also the insulation under the hood should be left dry too. If it gets heavy it will sag and tear. MOST everything else can be pressure washed. The engine compartment is made to take a splash.
It's also known as a Isochoric Process. Basically - you vary the pressure while keeping the volume constant. Thus the closed system and the all-metal AC lines.
It works the same as a can of compressed air. You send a volume of air from high-pressure to low-pressure. The restriction keeps the gas from expanding in the low-pressure environment, so the temperature drops.
The expansion valve basically keeps the pressure low in the evaporator by restricting the flow of refrigerant.
thanks for this information brian. very informative. as a tech i am always looking for relative information and personal perspective on subject matter. being that i live in texas i know a thing or two about a/c systems. as / chrysler diag.... if you have low pressure on the high side and high pressure on the low side, before changing the compressor it is wise to dump a cold bottle of water on the expansion valve, ice cold. this got me thinkin... in the colder months, why don't i put my system under a vacuum? this make keep any moisture away from vital components on my old ragged vehicle which i know could use a new compressor? i guess that time is coming but i would like to put it off... sorry for the mental adventure... best of luck my friend and good job again!
It's tough to pull moisture out of a dryer because of those saddle bag silica gel things. The silica gel really holds onto the moisture and therefore loses capacity to hold more water. Though it's not ideal. They can be re used with success.
brian your analogies or just freakn phenomenal👏👏👏
If you have to keep filling it, there's a leak. If you don't see a leak in the engine bay, it could be the evaporator, which requires pulling the instrument panel to replace.
You should not have to keep filling the A/C system. It is not considered a regularly refilled system.
It's latent heat because temperature remains unchanged as the heat is added. It takes a certain amount of heat before the phase change can be completed.
youve got a way with words,when i done my a/c course the bloke dident want to explain anything,i swear he wanted me to fail the exam:/Anyway on vauxhall ,opels suffer with condensers that fall appart!personally i would try and stay away from bodyshop repairs as ive had them put new condensers on with no seals!cheers man
I admire your knowledge AND your pic!
There's actually a really cool formula for latent heat
PV=nRT where P is pressure V is volume n is for moles/ grams R is .0821 and T is temperature. By manipulating the other variables you can control another variable. This is a good formula to understand HVAC stuff.
Great job on the video. Thanks for taking the time to shoot it. You should consider teaching too.
I love teaching, you just can't support a family and my hobbies doing it without giving up the time to one, the other, or both.
If the level of charge is off it will build too much pressure too quick on the high side and cut off or it will run out of pressure on the low side from being too low and cut off to preserve the compressor from not getting lube (suspended in the refrigerant charge).
Awesome video as usual Brian. I love A/C in all forms so any video about air conditioning is great! Also, I'm curious, do you have an air conditioner for the shop?
Latent heat is the consistent temp as the process of turning liquid to vapor the temp remains the same then once vaporized it becomes sensible temp and begins changing. The temps are crucial to know the state of the refrigerant. Hot and cold tels us nothing. Vacuum into microns and turn off the pump and watch the microns to make sure the stay under 500
Another great video Brian. Well explained, thanks.
That's rough whereas you've got such humidity too!
ive got a 95 chevy tahoe that the a/c system was open for at least 4 months before i closed the system and a month ago me and my friend whos a mechanic took a can of freon and threw it in the tahoe and it took. he said it had a air pocket in the system but somehow it moved so now the a/c works in it and that was the first time hes seen a a/c system do that
Kudos for the excellent explanation, Brian. I think EricTheCarGuy turned me on to your channel, and you seem to have the right stuff as far as cars goes. Keep it up!
I like this video he explain everything thanks for showing this video.
I have a 2002 silverado, It cools very good when your driving on shorter trips, but if you drive for an hour or so straight the air begins to drop off until its barely moving any air. If you keep the fan on high it seems to last longer but if you turn the fan speed down it stops sooner. I did change the fan relay. Do you have any suggestions?
I bet you the cabin expender is getting ICED UP by faulty TXV... perhaps it is simply not sensing correctly OR cabin air filter is partially plugged up
They now makes a r134 extreme cold . I have a 91 camery with r12 and it was 38 degrees with r12 and now converted with r134 extreme cold it runs 41 when its 98 outside . I am unsure whats in that stuff but it works great. I also hav a 2003 with r134 and it does not get as cold as the camery . If you have to recharge r134a I would try the extreme version.I got mine at NAPA 13 bucks.
The blowing on a hand comparison is wrong... what makes the evaporator cold is not how much the valve opens per se but how much liquid refrigerant manages to evaporate inside the evaporator... if the valve stays wide open you get reduced or no cooling because the evaporator is flooded with refrigerant and most of it will evaporate inside the suction line or, even worse, inside or after the compressor... if the expansion valve closes completely or gets plugged with ice, again, you get no cooling because the evaporator becomes completely starved of refrigerant in this case... the TXV adjusts the flow so that the evaporator is neither starved nor flooded... and it also has to do so in a stable and steady manner, with no "hunting", or you'll soon notice fluctuating vent temperatures...
Great explanation Brian, Thanks.
great explanation
Great video and an excellent diagnosis.
If I thought that there was that much moisture in the a/c system I would have replaced the receiver/drier.
Most of the heat in the high side of the system is induced by the compression of the refrigerant, not the small amount of heat picked up in the evaporator.
Maybe a script would help you when trying to explain the more technical aspects of automotive repair.
very good and down to earth explanation, thanks
Cool video as always,great explanation.
im not sure how much this will help, but like brian said. be carefull around the ignition. and radiator, be careful you dont bend the fins. and be sure to wash out all soaps and detergents if you use any. most importantly just start your car run it to opperateing temp for a few minutes after you wash it, it will get the water out of the places it shouldnt be in before it will do damage.
thank you. also what was the amount of coolent I should add? I think its 1.5 pounds and also how much oil should I put in it?
big help thanks learned alot
Thanks...from Philippines.
great vid on ac...ty for posting...you do great work
It sounds like either that or possible accumulation of moisture or overcharging.
Nice video and explanation,. So when you restrict turning screw clockwise on the expansion valve in cabin blows more cold? Because I opened unclockwise, let the heat in faster to cool down the a/c pump fasters but now doesn't come out cold cold in cabin.
I love a/c work. Nice video....
Brian, How much oil is used in a auto A/C system? And how do you know if there's to much or to little? Great video!!!!
That's alot for my brain to absorb but I got the Basics People need to wash the crud out ofthe radiator also at least once a year in the spring so the air can flow through
Thanks Brian. great explanation..
I think the thing that really made me step back and go, NO CHIT!!! About any HVAC system is the fact that your not making the air cooler, instead you are remove heat from the air. By remove heat from the air inturn the air gets cooler. And also that there is no way to measure coldness but inturn we measure level of or lack of heat.
I haven't. I know brake parts cleaner work phenomenal though.
Yes!!! Your a Ron Paul fan!!!
Great vid and Love the Ron Paul poster. ;)
Have you tried condenser cleaner form a residential HVAC store for cleaning automotive condensers?
now i know this is kinda off topic. But ive heard mixed feedback about cleaning under the hood. Some people say they do it all the time with no problems, and i know others that say there car has not ran right since. And some covered up various things and others not. I guess im just a little curious as to what is best.
I know that many HVAC people say to replace the receiver/dryer when the system is open like this. But I don't understand why -- If the moisture is all evacuated by an extended vacuum, what's wrong with just reusing the old part?
The filer /dryer has a special material to absorb and hold the moisture in the system . over the time that material will become saturated and can not absorb anymore moisture . They always recommend to replace filter/dryer when ever you open the refrigerant line set of AC system .
Really good video thanks for the info
Awesome! I just experienced this same situation!
Not sure what you mean by that. What do you mean?
hey Brian m working on my 2013 brz and i suspect that my expansion valve is stuck because i had the system open with no condenser for about 6 months. i suspect the expansion valve is dirty because the compressor at first turns for about 30 seconds and then it would only turn on for maybe 5 seconds and its stops and then it turns on. So my question is if its possible to remove the expansion valve and clean it. Thank you in advance.
is it blowing cold? there isn't much use in cleaning it, they are 20 bucks? unless you have to get it from the dealer, then who knows.
On my RV, I replaced the expansion valve and drier. Ran a 3 CFM vacuum for 2 hrs. Charged the system with refrigerant and my expansion valve looks like a block of ice. My AC line does get cool but I get negative low pressure on the low side gauge. I’m in a vacuum with the engine running and AC on max. I don’t know what else to do?
so was it the condensor or low on freon or a pre mature diagnosis
Thanks!
Brian, did you go to automotive school, or did you learn everything on your own?...it seems you know how to do everything on cars! great video bro!
Brian, one more question about oil in an A/C unit. If the refrigerant is really low, the unit must be low on oil? Thanks.
Thanks
Thangs!
my saturn has a pressure safety blow off valve. its on the compressor alldata said it triggers at 500psi ( which is crazy high) and will close at 400. it also said it it ever opens it needs to be replaced. im not sure if there is way to post it.
Great job!
Welcome!
Thanks for the vid Brian, my A/C has been out for quite some time now but it hasn't started bothering me until just recently that it's gotten hot. I will use this to troubleshoot my system. Quick newb question though, is the little oil-filter-looking tank on the left with the lines coming out of it the expansion valve or what?
Your'e welcome!