I have four Singer 99's, 1923 and 1930 hand cranks, 1942 Crinkle (99-24), and 1958 version. The crinkle 99 has a tension regulator with a "graduated collar" marked with a + and - , with tension marks between and an indicator bar that moves front to back by turning tension thumb nut. It's the only sewing machine I've ever seen with this kind of tension regulator.
August 2023. This was very interesting to me as I have my Mum's old Singer machine. I've used it many, many times over my lifetime and always wondered how old it was. It looks very like the machine on the right of the thumbnail. In the early 70s Mum had it 'modernised' by paying for an electric motor to be installed. I still have the original hand wheel and parts that were removed. Today I looked up the serial number. Turns out it's a 1940 15k model! 83years old! Very heavy and cumbersome but still used when needed. 😊 I am going to try and spruce it up a bit by following your cleaning tips. TFS👍
The hole in the back right corner was definitely for those models that came in a cabinet, as the cords exited through the holes. the 99K also came with two different types of light assembly. Some came with the standard light with a open bulb, either screw in or socket type. Other came with what is know as the "SPOT LIGHT" OR "ROCKET LIGHT" which is different in shape and has a magnifying glass over the opening that focused the light on the needle area, as far as I know the "ROCKET" light only came with a screw in bulb. My Singer 99K has the Rocket light, and only has two feet on the right side, as was a cabinet model, when setting on a table it is NOT level because the right side of the machine was designed to hang from the cabinet supported by the rim and the pins in the back. Thank you for your video!
In the UK most of the lights had the socket type bulbs, in both types of lamps. For some reason the screw in bulbs were not common here, not even in house fittings.
I'm a little late to the party with this video, but... I just finished restoring a 99K from early 1918. Some difference I noted from later models is the use of the smaller upper thread tension unit, that the pin for the transfer fork for the upper thread tension release is used to position the end plate rather than a thumb screw, and most important - the needle bar diameter is .187" rather than the .250" found on later machines. There are other subtle differences too, but those are the big three. Oh yes... My example was electrified at some point, but it retained the spoked handwheel.
I just got a Spartan, that someone put a light on. It was only missing the bobbin case cover and is working 100 percent. This is so small, more powerful than a featherweight and is just so cool.
The knee bar controller is so nice to use. Check underneath as most Singer knee bar operated tables used the knee bar to press against a standard foot pedal, which could be slid out and used on the floor as normal.
I just found one a 1937 super fancy with a power cord , originally wood box and a kinda knee thingy. It’s super heavy looks as cool as a anything. Black with gold and the ornate chrome plate. It’s a work of art really. A decor piece.
My 99K is stamped on the underside EP allotted date Dec 11th 1959. I was given it after a house clearance. Motor works fine, just needed an oil, no case though. Thanks for the info.
I believe that the porthole in the base under the motor is for routing the the power cables through to store them under the machine Inside the Box while stowed.
My 1915 99k Blackside Handcrank has Filigree Decals and a shiny black plain faceplate and a black Handwheel. It is fitted into a Early oak base with a elongated slot under the handwheel so that it possibly could be fitted to a treadle I believe. Also the inbuilt attachment box cover is wooden - made of oak as is the Oak Bentwood case
@Curio By B-Spoke Designs, thank you for this very interesting look at these great sewing machines. My wife has one of them. Bentwood case and all. The Serial # is EE 158718 (casting has 33653 10) and though it has the same looking thread tensioner as your aluminum model it is certainly not light and the panel for the serial number looks brassy. I have to rewire all of the connections because the old wires have actual wires showing through but otherwise it is in great condition. There are some knocks and dings on the surface here and there but the decals look great. Sort of a flower pattern with script on the top of the arm saying, "The Singer Manufacturing Co. Manufactured in Great Britain." I am going to have problems with the case though. In the past, some fool has painted it a bright purple. Have no idea how I might safely remove the paint but retain the underlying Singer decals - if the decals are still there. Any ideas on what kind of paint remover to use, Please? We also need to get the proper kneebar for it. My wife bought a bar and speed control for it from a provider but it is the wrong one... SER45283 is stamped on the ID Plate. It looks like the bar and speed control for a much earlier version, everything is open instead of being securely boxed up like the speed control that came with the machine. We're in Australia.
I believe there were two types of knee bar made by Singer. I'll see if I can find a serial number for you. As for the case - Pain removers vary from country to country - we in the UK can no longer get the strong stuff! It also depends on what type of paint was used. I doubt any paint stripper would leave the decals intact. The serial number indicates it was made in 1947, with that batch of numbers being issued on 9th September.
I’m very late to this video, but I just got a 99-13 that was manufactured in 1925, probably, in New Jersey, USA. It has a knee drive instead of a foot pedal. I didn’t hear you mention the difference in drive styles, so I thought I’d post a comment. Thanks for this video, and all your videos, they’re very helpful!
I am the happy owner of a 1951 99k hand crank machine. It has the filigree decals, but the newer striated faceplate. It has chrome-plating rather than nickel-plating. The hand-crank knob is black, plastic, maybe Bakelite. The bobbin winder is the old style, but again, chrome plated. No hole in the back of the bed. The serial number is on the bed of the machine on top. My beautiful machine seems right on the cusp of the changes that were made in the 1950s.
I recently acquired a 1949 model 99k in the bentwood case, and foot powered electric motor. My intention was to replace the solid balance wheel with the nine spoke and handcrank. I then discovered a different diameter between the solid, and spoked where the bobbin winder rides. So I robbed the assembly off my 1929 66k and made it work. Now I have to go in search of a new one to get my 66 back in operation. It's fun tinkering with these machines.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns two different sized belt guards. 32673 for the solid balance wheel and 32604 for the nine spoke. There's 1/2" difference between the two where the winder tire rides.
Great video! I have two 99k from the mid 1950s and have just got a 1916 model. So cute! A tiny tensioner and little handle on the wheel. About to start cleaning/sorting her so will be revisiting your videos.
Great info, I have 3 a 1950s, and my first ever Singer a 1939 and a 1926 we rescued, these last 2 are both hand crank the earliest one has a slightly smaller size of wooden turning handle compared to the 1939. I adore old vintage Singers and I’d have one of every model if I had the room.
My 99 is in a wooden legged treadle and is from 1940. I assume this is because iron was in shorter supply during the war in the UK. It's a really basic version, no reverse, but has filigree decals. Stitches beautifully too
A 99 in a treadle is pretty rare! Usually treadles housed the larger 66. You’re right, iron was needed for the war effort and Singer switched over to wooden legs on their treadles.
My first vsm was a 1923 99k handcrank, bentwood case, that gorgeous oil smell, I cleaned her up and now at 101 years old she is still in use and sewing beautifully. Heavy as! I have a few other vsm’s now- 3 x 201s [ 1 x1956 electric, 1 x1956 handcrank, 1x1937 201 treadle] a VS 1935 28k, 2 x1951 221ks, a 1957 222k
Thank you for putting up such an informative video. I just recently acquired a Singer 99 (1928 ). It has an electric motor and a knee bar. The cloth covered cord has bare wires protruding and because of this I was afraid to plug it in. My husband removed the cord and is going to put a new cord on it. The Filigree pattern is in excellent shape. I hope with a bit of cleaning and oiling to have the little machine running by the weekend. It is missing the sliding plate that covers the bobbin but I hope to find one of those without too much trouble. When did Singer start making electric machines? This appears to be original and not a retrofit.
I believe they started producing electric machines in the 1920s, but it was a slow introduction. At that time few people had electricity in their homes. I think they were less popular here in the UK as we adopted electricity quite slowly.
I had to rewire mine, the wiring just fell apart but I knew it when I bought it it's a beautiful machine, otherwise .to me wiring one up is nothing.hard
I had to replace the powered and foot pedal cord for my 99 completely with one that I got from Amazon, and replacing the other cords to the motor and light were an easy evening's work. Not to difficult, just take it a step at a time.
I purchased the Singer 99 from my s-i-l as she does not sew. Getting into the restoring of it. Your videos are the best out there that I have seen on the process. Great job! But I have 2 questions. 1) The tension dial is the older style with no numbers. Can this be retrofitted with the newer tension style with the dial that has the indicators? 2) The machine is direct wired to the motor. Can it be retrofitted with the bracket that has the junction box (as in your video) and use the same motor, or would I need to replace the whole thing? Is this even possible or worth it? (BTW, it is in a stationary cabinet so will not be moving it). I would like to replace the old style foot pedal with an electronic one to make it easier to use. Your help is so appreciated,
Yes, the tension unit should be a straight sway and yes, you should be able to retrofit the motor with a socket. I would suggest you get a qualified person to carry out any work on the electrics as this may involve opening up the motor. New motors and foot pedal combos are available but almost all the motors I have seen are white. I'm glad you enjoyed my videos!
I have a 1956 Model 99 that is cabinet mounted, probably not very common. And yes the wires go through the hole in the base of the machine. Do you know where I can find the variation numbers? Thanks for a great video!
I note you said that the 99’s did not have the more elaborate decals, but mine has the Lotus design. According to IMACS the serial number dates it to 1913.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns thank you for the reply. I did wonder if it was a 66 but was thrown by the serial number which said it was a 99. I bought it two weeks ago in a local charity shop for 20€ and the decals are in excellent condition, but I took it to my local sewing machine clinic for them to give it a full maintenance once over last week. It has a motor and light but perhaps this was an after addition. I also have another beautiful and perfect 99, serial number Y8381138 (3/2/31) which I bought from the same charity shop, also for 20€.
Very informative presentation, I am looking for information on the crinkle, Godzilla 99 dating 1942 no sure how to clean this finish .looking foreword to working on this one.
To be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think they changed much for another 20 or so years. The changes were sporadic and depended on where the machine was made.
Researching a Singer my Sister-in-law has from her mother and found your videos. Thank you they are very helpful. Hers has "Great Britain" in gold on the top of it as well as the Singer logo. It is in a cabinet and looks in great shape except for the power cord which is crumbling and exposing some wire. According to the Serial number it was made about July 1948 in Scotland, but has the blue badge for the Singer Centennial - 100 years of sewing. . How will it affect the value if the power cord is replaced? It works as is now. Should we try to replace it?
I have 4 99s each is iferent in its own way, Like, 1 of them has 2 screws holding the face plate, 1 has a stud in the top, presumably where the needle rod is inserted but the others dont.
Brilliant video on the 99k so helpful on the black face plates and wheels. I have a 99k with the very small tension mechanism and silver number plate but no idea if it’s aluminium. The paint has chipped off round the edge and the metal underneath is ridged not smooth like other machines. Is there any other way of telling?
I was hoping you would talk about the early power lead that resembled a old school headphone jack with the male end mounted under the black coverplate. I'm having a hard time finding the female ends.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns Mine was also a 230 volt power system. So I'm changing it to hand crank for heavier stitching. It must have been in storage for many years as it still looks glossy new and unused.
I just bought a 99k from an Op Shop (second hand store for those not in Australia). Its the version with the "Eye" design and striated plate. But it was in a light green Bakelite(?) Or plastic case. It came complete with the cord and manual and the date in that says Printed in 1955
The case may have been from a later 285 (it would fit). It should have the numbered tension dial being from the 50s. It's easy to get a proper date for the machine. Just google Singer serial numbers and one of the first results should be for the ISMACS database.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns no kidding aluminum that early , wow didnt know , thanks i looked around my area but all metal ones so far , nothing yet lol but im on it .......
@@4486xxdawson They were designated 99K-10 made in 1922 to 1923. Aluminium casting was relatively new back then, but there was something of a demand for it in the early 20s. They are quite rare as a lot of aluminium items were recycled for use in WWII.
I am trying to remove a 99K made in great Britain from it's original case (with cloth covered bottom). One side comes out easily, but the other side will not budge. I am looking for a set screw of some sort. I am wondering if it is perhaps welded in as there is a rough dome of metal on the machine above the area where the pin goes into the maching. It's a 1957 model, and I would like to move it to a new case.
If you tip the machine back in its case, you should find a set screw under the machine, that hold the hinge pins in place. I have a video about a Singer 66 in a treadle table, which shows where they are.
I have a 99k from 1923 with a solid wheel. Ismacs says 99k10 was made between 1922-24. My serial number says it is a 99K from 1923. The serial number is a silver color and the tension looks similar to yours with the filigree here. Does this mean mine is a 99k10?
The 99K10 was unique in that it was made of aluminium. It had a smaller tension assembly than usual and the serial number is silver. It should be noticeably lighter than a regular cast iron 99.
I have a 99 1927 singer, sewing machine I’m struggling with attention. I’ve taken it apart and I have natural barrel for the fitting and I can’t work out how to get the spring connected. Any help I would be very grateful. Thanking you, Maggie
How can you tell if you have a Singer 99, 99k or 99 13? Some ppl claim they have a 99 13, but when I check with the Singer Serial DB, it doesn't specify. Just says 15000.
The numbers on the database were issued when the body was produced. At that time it would not be known what the final configuration of the machine would be - treadle, electric, handcrank etc. The number at the end would denote the configuration or a sub class. The K denotes it was built in Kilbowie, Scotland.
I know that there were differences in the tension release lever inside the machine - my friend has one that seems to need some arcane knowledge to get out if you want to give it a good clean - if anyone knows how to get the jolly thing in and out of the machine again please let us all know? The part where it hinges to swivel back and forward is inserted into a "channel" in the casting of the machine. I thought that was an "old style" lever but it is in my friend's 1956 99K machine that in pretty much all other ways seems to be more modern (with the numbered tension dial, no-oscillating finger to guide thread for the bobbin winder, a non-bentwood carry case and the "pointer" two-slot system for indicating stitch length).
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns I know what you mean - but I see vintage originals available to replace them when they're fubarred so someone(s) out there knows how... I tell you what - if ever I figure or find out how it's done I'll pop back here and let you all know. :-)
I have reacently bought a singer 99 from an antique makret and she is working (kinda) it is from 1951 but has the old style knobs and decorations. But I am unfortunately having alot of problems getting her to work the teeth are moving backwards despite my moving the arm the correct directions :(
@@jocelynzahn1896 most 99s are basically the same the -13 is basically the format it came in. I have a 2 part restoration video on the 99. also a foot pedal repair video. They should give you all you need to know.
My nose plate has an extrusion it's entire length. every one I see here has a flat nose plate, mine is a Canadian model I don't think that makes any difference and it has numbered dial different decals dish flywheel. It has a small Bakelite cover to the left of the plug but it is in a nice cabinet with a Bakelite motor it's hard to get this thing run down it says it's a 1950 from Canada but the nose plate is what's got me baffled it has a long extrusion the entire length vertically on the nose plate
Hii, amazing video, thank you!! I just bought singer 99 num ec577524 but I can't find out how old is she? Is there anywhere I can found out Thank you 💕
Google Singer Serial Numbers will lead to the ISMACS site, where you can look up the serial number to find the batch date. Your machine was made in 1939. The batch was issues on 28 November 1939.
I have four Singer 99's, 1923 and 1930 hand cranks, 1942 Crinkle (99-24), and 1958 version. The crinkle 99 has a tension regulator with a "graduated collar" marked with a + and - , with tension marks between and an indicator bar that moves front to back by turning tension thumb nut. It's the only sewing machine I've ever seen with this kind of tension regulator.
I have a 201 with that kind of tensioner. They're not very common.
August 2023. This was very interesting to me as I have my Mum's old Singer machine. I've used it many, many times over my lifetime and always wondered how old it was. It looks very like the machine on the right of the thumbnail. In the early 70s Mum had it 'modernised' by paying for an electric motor to be installed. I still have the original hand wheel and parts that were removed. Today I looked up the serial number. Turns out it's a 1940 15k model! 83years old! Very heavy and cumbersome but still used when needed. 😊 I am going to try and spruce it up a bit by following your cleaning tips. TFS👍
The hole in the back right corner was definitely for those models that came in a cabinet, as the cords exited through the holes. the 99K also came with two different types of light assembly. Some came with the standard light with a open bulb, either screw in or socket type. Other came with what is know as the "SPOT LIGHT" OR "ROCKET LIGHT" which is different in shape and has a magnifying glass over the opening that focused the light on the needle area, as far as I know the "ROCKET" light only came with a screw in bulb. My Singer 99K has the Rocket light, and only has two feet on the right side, as was a cabinet model, when setting on a table it is NOT level because the right side of the machine was designed to hang from the cabinet supported by the rim and the pins in the back. Thank you for your video!
In the UK most of the lights had the socket type bulbs, in both types of lamps. For some reason the screw in bulbs were not common here, not even in house fittings.
I'm a little late to the party with this video, but... I just finished restoring a 99K from early 1918. Some difference I noted from later models is the use of the smaller upper thread tension unit, that the pin for the transfer fork for the upper thread tension release is used to position the end plate rather than a thumb screw, and most important - the needle bar diameter is .187" rather than the .250" found on later machines. There are other subtle differences too, but those are the big three. Oh yes... My example was electrified at some point, but it retained the spoked handwheel.
There's always something new to learn - Thank you!
Merci pour la grande qualité des vidéos et des commentaires. Réellement TOP
Merci beaucoup.
I just got a Spartan, that someone put a light on. It was only missing the bobbin case cover and is working 100 percent. This is so small, more powerful than a featherweight and is just so cool.
I've just come into a 1929 99 with knee bar controller. It's in a table, not a case, but this is SO helpful in understanding the mechanism.
The knee bar controller is so nice to use. Check underneath as most Singer knee bar operated tables used the knee bar to press against a standard foot pedal, which could be slid out and used on the floor as normal.
This is excellent and informative. Especially enjoy the fact that you had so many examples of storage and carrying cases.
I just found one a 1937 super fancy with a power cord , originally wood box and a kinda knee thingy. It’s super heavy looks as cool as a anything. Black with gold and the ornate chrome plate.
It’s a work of art really. A decor piece.
My 99K is stamped on the underside EP allotted date Dec 11th 1959. I was given it after a house clearance. Motor works fine, just needed an oil, no case though. Thanks for the info.
I believe that the porthole in the base under the motor is for routing the the power cables through to store them under the machine Inside the Box while stowed.
My 1915 99k Blackside Handcrank has Filigree Decals and a shiny black plain faceplate and a black Handwheel. It is fitted into a Early oak base with a elongated slot under the handwheel so that it possibly could be fitted to a treadle I believe. Also the inbuilt attachment box cover is wooden - made of oak as is the Oak Bentwood case
@Curio By B-Spoke Designs, thank you for this very interesting look at these great sewing machines. My wife has one of them. Bentwood case and all. The Serial # is EE 158718 (casting has 33653 10) and though it has the same looking thread tensioner as your aluminum model it is certainly not light and the panel for the serial number looks brassy. I have to rewire all of the connections because the old wires have actual wires showing through but otherwise it is in great condition. There are some knocks and dings on the surface here and there but the decals look great. Sort of a flower pattern with script on the top of the arm saying,
"The Singer Manufacturing Co.
Manufactured in Great Britain."
I am going to have problems with the case though. In the past, some fool has painted it a bright purple. Have no idea how I might safely remove the paint but retain the underlying Singer decals - if the decals are still there. Any ideas on what kind of paint remover to use, Please?
We also need to get the proper kneebar for it. My wife bought a bar and speed control for it from a provider but it is the wrong one... SER45283 is stamped on the ID Plate. It looks like the bar and speed control for a much earlier version, everything is open instead of being securely boxed up like the speed control that came with the machine. We're in Australia.
I believe there were two types of knee bar made by Singer. I'll see if I can find a serial number for you. As for the case - Pain removers vary from country to country - we in the UK can no longer get the strong stuff! It also depends on what type of paint was used. I doubt any paint stripper would leave the decals intact. The serial number indicates it was made in 1947, with that batch of numbers being issued on 9th September.
I love my 99k hand crank 1958 I adore her. She has her quirks and I love them ❤
I’m very late to this video, but I just got a 99-13 that was manufactured in 1925, probably, in New Jersey, USA. It has a knee drive instead of a foot pedal. I didn’t hear you mention the difference in drive styles, so I thought I’d post a comment. Thanks for this video, and all your videos, they’re very helpful!
I am the happy owner of a 1951 99k hand crank machine. It has the filigree decals, but the newer striated faceplate. It has chrome-plating rather than nickel-plating. The hand-crank knob is black, plastic, maybe Bakelite. The bobbin winder is the old style, but again, chrome plated. No hole in the back of the bed. The serial number is on the bed of the machine on top.
My beautiful machine seems right on the cusp of the changes that were made in the 1950s.
That sounds right! Singer did a lot of mixing and matching as the changes came in.
I recently acquired a 1949 model 99k in the bentwood case, and foot powered electric motor. My intention was to replace the solid balance wheel with the nine spoke and handcrank. I then discovered a different diameter between the solid, and spoked where the bobbin winder rides. So I robbed the assembly off my 1929 66k and made it work. Now I have to go in search of a new one to get my 66 back in operation. It's fun tinkering with these machines.
That's an interesting point. Wasn't it possible to adjust the old bobbin winder to fit?
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns two different sized belt guards. 32673 for the solid balance wheel and 32604 for the nine spoke. There's 1/2" difference between the two where the winder tire rides.
What can you tell me about 99k F7161593?
@@normarangel2879 That's a 99K made in Scotland in 1916
Great video! I have two 99k from the mid 1950s and have just got a 1916 model. So cute! A tiny tensioner and little handle on the wheel. About to start cleaning/sorting her so will be revisiting your videos.
Nice one! - my last video upload is part one of a 99 restoration.
I LOVE these comparative videos. Thank you so much for sharing them!
You're welcome!
Thank you for comparing 99k. How about showing how to use the hand crank.
Great info, I have 3 a 1950s, and my first ever Singer a 1939 and a 1926 we rescued, these last 2 are both hand crank the earliest one has a slightly smaller size of wooden turning handle compared to the 1939. I adore old vintage Singers and I’d have one of every model if I had the room.
I need a bigger house!
My 99 is in a wooden legged treadle and is from 1940. I assume this is because iron was in shorter supply during the war in the UK. It's a really basic version, no reverse, but has filigree decals. Stitches beautifully too
A 99 in a treadle is pretty rare! Usually treadles housed the larger 66. You’re right, iron was needed for the war effort and Singer switched over to wooden legs on their treadles.
My first vsm was a 1923 99k handcrank, bentwood case, that gorgeous oil smell, I cleaned her up and now at 101 years old she is still in use and sewing beautifully. Heavy as! I have a few other vsm’s now- 3 x 201s [ 1 x1956 electric, 1 x1956 handcrank, 1x1937 201 treadle] a VS 1935 28k, 2 x1951 221ks, a 1957 222k
Thank you for putting up such an informative video. I just recently acquired a Singer 99 (1928 ). It has an electric motor and a knee bar. The cloth covered cord has bare wires protruding and because of this I was afraid to plug it in. My husband removed the cord and is going to put a new cord on it. The Filigree pattern is in excellent shape. I hope with a bit of cleaning and oiling to have the little machine running by the weekend. It is missing the sliding plate that covers the bobbin but I hope to find one of those without too much trouble. When did Singer start making electric machines? This appears to be original and not a retrofit.
I believe they started producing electric machines in the 1920s, but it was a slow introduction. At that time few people had electricity in their homes. I think they were less popular here in the UK as we adopted electricity quite slowly.
I had to rewire mine, the wiring just fell apart but I knew it when I bought it it's a beautiful machine, otherwise .to me wiring one up is nothing.hard
I had to replace the powered and foot pedal cord for my 99 completely with one that I got from Amazon, and replacing the other cords to the motor and light were an easy evening's work. Not to difficult, just take it a step at a time.
Thanks, Doug. I've just received a 99 with a broken tension spring and was wondering what it should look like. Great information. 👍
Glad to be of help!
I purchased the Singer 99 from my s-i-l as she does not sew. Getting into the restoring of it. Your videos are the best out there that I have seen on the process. Great job!
But I have 2 questions. 1) The tension dial is the older style with no numbers. Can this be retrofitted with the newer tension style with the dial that has the indicators? 2) The machine is direct wired to the motor. Can it be retrofitted with the bracket that has the junction box (as in your video) and use the same motor, or would I need to replace the whole thing? Is this even possible or worth it? (BTW, it is in a stationary cabinet so will not be moving it). I would like to replace the old style foot pedal with an electronic one to make it easier to use. Your help is so appreciated,
Yes, the tension unit should be a straight sway and yes, you should be able to retrofit the motor with a socket. I would suggest you get a qualified person to carry out any work on the electrics as this may involve opening up the motor. New motors and foot pedal combos are available but almost all the motors I have seen are white. I'm glad you enjoyed my videos!
I have a 1956 Model 99 that is cabinet mounted, probably not very common. And yes the wires go through the hole in the base of the machine.
Do you know where I can find the variation numbers?
Thanks for a great video!
Cabinet mounted 99s are quite rare. Try the ISMACS website for the variation numbers.
I note you said that the 99’s did not have the more elaborate decals, but mine has the Lotus design. According to IMACS the serial number dates it to 1913.
The lotus decals were only on the 66. Check your machine’s face plate - 99s have a flat faceplate while the 66 is shaped more like a D.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns thank you for the reply. I did wonder if it was a 66 but was thrown by the serial number which said it was a 99. I bought it two weeks ago in a local charity shop for 20€ and the decals are in excellent condition, but I took it to my local sewing machine clinic for them to give it a full maintenance once over last week. It has a motor and light but perhaps this was an after addition. I also have another beautiful and perfect 99, serial number Y8381138 (3/2/31) which I bought from the same charity shop, also for 20€.
Very informative presentation, I am looking for information on the crinkle, Godzilla 99 dating 1942 no sure how to clean this finish .looking foreword to working on this one.
I've never come across a crinkle finished machine yet here in the UK so unfortunately I can't give you and advice. Hopefully someone else can.
Great video. I have recently got a 99k made in 1923. I am wondering how much it changed over the next 5 years. Any info would be appreciated.
To be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think they changed much for another 20 or so years. The changes were sporadic and depended on where the machine was made.
This is a great informative video! Thank you so much!
Researching a Singer my Sister-in-law has from her mother and found your videos. Thank you they are very helpful. Hers has "Great Britain" in gold on the top of it as well as the Singer logo. It is in a cabinet and looks in great shape except for the power cord which is crumbling and exposing some wire. According to the Serial number it was made about July 1948 in Scotland, but has the blue badge for the Singer Centennial - 100 years of sewing. .
How will it affect the value if the power cord is replaced? It works as is now. Should we try to replace it?
definitely get it replaced. That shouldn't affect the value at all.
Oh and the centennial badges machines are quite sought after!
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns Thank you so much for replying!
I have 4 99s each is iferent in its own way,
Like, 1 of them has 2 screws holding the face plate, 1 has a stud in the top, presumably where the needle rod is inserted but the others dont.
Brilliant video on the 99k so helpful on the black face plates and wheels. I have a 99k with the very small tension mechanism and silver number plate but no idea if it’s aluminium. The paint has chipped off round the edge and the metal underneath is ridged not smooth like other machines. Is there any other way of telling?
try using a magnet - The magnet won't be attracted to aluminium.
I was hoping you would talk about the early power lead that resembled a old school headphone jack with the male end mounted under the black coverplate. I'm having a hard time finding the female ends.
Those connections were never used here in the UK. Maybe some Stateside viewers can help?
Do you mean Chicago, or barrel, plugs? I'd suggest a search with those terms and see if you find something that matches what you see on your machine.
Hello have you added an earth cable to your 99 singer or just use a plug in circuit breaker? Thank you
I use a plug in circuit breaker. I was advised it was not a good idea to add an earth.
Very interesting, thank you. I have a early version and I now know the face plate has been changed to look like a later model at some point.
Many older machines had a mid life refurbish and update.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns Mine was also a 230 volt power system. So I'm changing it to hand crank for heavier stitching. It must have been in storage for many years as it still looks glossy new and unused.
Which ones had the knee/leg bar for the motor vs foot pedal?? I have my Grandmother's and I think it is 1936, but i don't know the model.
Just found your channel, as i'm researching videos on the 99K i just received!! Great information and video!! Well done! Subscribed:)
I'm glad my video has been helpful!
I just bought a 99k from an Op Shop (second hand store for those not in Australia). Its the version with the "Eye" design and striated plate. But it was in a light green Bakelite(?) Or plastic case. It came complete with the cord and manual and the date in that says Printed in 1955
The case may have been from a later 285 (it would fit). It should have the numbered tension dial being from the 50s. It's easy to get a proper date for the machine. Just google Singer serial numbers and one of the first results should be for the ISMACS database.
What year was the aluminum 99 made ? that was something i didnt know they made , going to keep my eyes peeled for one of them ......
I'm not sure - I believe it was the early 1920s
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns no kidding aluminum that early , wow didnt know , thanks i looked around my area but all metal ones so far , nothing yet lol but im on it .......
@@4486xxdawson They were designated 99K-10 made in 1922 to 1923. Aluminium casting was relatively new back then, but there was something of a demand for it in the early 20s. They are quite rare as a lot of aluminium items were recycled for use in WWII.
Oh, and wonderful, informative information. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it.
My Singer 99k has two vertical tubes on the motor. Assuming that is for lubricating the motor, how and with what is that done exactly?
There's specialist vintage sewing machine grease available. (modern Singer Grease is not suitable) Apply with a syringe
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns thank you! By chance, do you know what it’s called here in the US?
@@JesusisKing222 I believe the Featherweight Shop sells Sew Retro grease.
Thanks for this video. Very informative !
Thank you
Most informative: thank you for posting.
You're welcome!
I am trying to remove a 99K made in great Britain from it's original case (with cloth covered bottom). One side comes out easily, but the other side will not budge. I am looking for a set screw of some sort. I am wondering if it is perhaps welded in as there is a rough dome of metal on the machine above the area where the pin goes into the maching. It's a 1957 model, and I would like to move it to a new case.
If you tip the machine back in its case, you should find a set screw under the machine, that hold the hinge pins in place. I have a video about a Singer 66 in a treadle table, which shows where they are.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns Thank you! I put on my glasses and could finally make out the slot for the screws under the dirt. LOL. I appreciate your help
I have a 99k from 1923 with a solid wheel. Ismacs says 99k10 was made between 1922-24. My serial number says it is a 99K from 1923. The serial number is a silver color and the tension looks similar to yours with the filigree here. Does this mean mine is a 99k10?
The 99K10 was unique in that it was made of aluminium. It had a smaller tension assembly than usual and the serial number is silver. It should be noticeably lighter than a regular cast iron 99.
Ps I think I’m at the start of a vintage singer collection affliction it has started with a 99. Can you help?
There is no cure...
I have a 1920 Model 99 and a Spartan. I’ll have to compare them side-by-side, but I thought the Spartan was more similar to a Featherweight.
There were a few models called Spartan but i don't believe the Featherweight had a Spartan counterpart.
Thank you for the wonderful video.
I have a 99 1927 singer, sewing machine I’m struggling with attention. I’ve taken it apart and I have natural barrel for the fitting and I can’t work out how to get the spring connected. Any help I would be very grateful. Thanking you, Maggie
This video may help
ua-cam.com/video/_t4dbR7fe5Q/v-deo.htmlsi=kVSeOqoibaAloNQf
Found your videos .. very interesting could the hole be for a knee arm to lift the foot ..l
The knee lever is for the speed control, not to lift the foot. Fascinating, aren't they?
From the information, it looks like i have an early 99 with a plain black finished plate @2.26. It would be interesting to find out how old it is
@@Phone-e6w you can look the serial number up on the ISMAC website. That will confirm the date. Just google Singer Serial Numbers
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns thank you. Looks like it's from 1917. It's amazing how well these machines have lasted
@@Phone-e6w It is - they were so well engineered.
We received a 99-10 as a donation
I've still yet to come across one. Very nice addition to your collection!
How can you tell if you have a Singer 99, 99k or 99 13? Some ppl claim they have a 99 13, but when I check with the Singer Serial DB, it doesn't specify. Just says 15000.
The numbers on the database were issued when the body was produced. At that time it would not be known what the final configuration of the machine would be - treadle, electric, handcrank etc. The number at the end would denote the configuration or a sub class. The K denotes it was built in Kilbowie, Scotland.
I know that there were differences in the tension release lever inside the machine - my friend has one that seems to need some arcane knowledge to get out if you want to give it a good clean - if anyone knows how to get the jolly thing in and out of the machine again please let us all know? The part where it hinges to swivel back and forward is inserted into a "channel" in the casting of the machine. I thought that was an "old style" lever but it is in my friend's 1956 99K machine that in pretty much all other ways seems to be more modern (with the numbered tension dial, no-oscillating finger to guide thread for the bobbin winder, a non-bentwood carry case and the "pointer" two-slot system for indicating stitch length).
Megan Mills I have never been able to get one out either. I think it's held in by a pin at the back.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns I know what you mean - but I see vintage originals available to replace them when they're fubarred so someone(s) out there knows how... I tell you what - if ever I figure or find out how it's done I'll pop back here and let you all know. :-)
@@meganmills6545 even better - make a video!
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns But that I could! I don't have the resources, sadly. I used to be able to borrow them but not anymore. :-D
Love this v
Thank you, quite interesting!
What does 99K mean?
I have a 99 from 1925. It sews like a dream!
Mine has a Motor with a knee bar. And the filagree decals
It has a solid wheel
The K means it was built in the Kilbowie factory in Scotland.
How can find out more about the letters?
Factory’s?
@@cherylweso google ismacs - there's a lot of information on that site
I have my mothers with the crinkle/sanded finish and bentwood cover.
The crinkle finish is very rare here!
Thank you for comparing different 99k.
Beautiful machine. Mine was manufactured in Clydesboro Scotland in the 1950's.
I have reacently bought a singer 99 from an antique makret and she is working (kinda) it is from 1951 but has the old style knobs and decorations.
But I am unfortunately having alot of problems getting her to work the teeth are moving backwards despite my moving the arm the correct directions :(
It's possible the stitch length screw is either screwed too fat out or too far in
I have a 1926 99 that has a knee bar. It also has a motor. Very hard to get restoration info.
The knee bar mechanism is very similar to that of a footpedal
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns i have to do a complete restore. Its a mess. Need videos for reference and can't find any complete restore for the 99-13
@@jocelynzahn1896 most 99s are basically the same the -13 is basically the format it came in. I have a 2 part restoration video on the 99. also a foot pedal repair video. They should give you all you need to know.
@@CurioByBSpokeDesigns awesome!
I have a mint EJ series machine. Can you estimate its value?
Just find out .....I do indeed have a singer 99 10. I dont know if it works.
It's worth getting going!
Didn't mentioned years???
I’ve been trying to figure out what model I have…
If you google Singer Serial Numbers, it will take you to the ISMACS website, where you can look up your machine by its serial number
My nose plate has an extrusion it's entire length. every one I see here has a flat nose plate, mine is a Canadian model I don't think that makes any difference and it has numbered dial different decals dish flywheel. It has a small Bakelite cover to the left of the plug but it is in a nice cabinet with a Bakelite motor it's hard to get this thing run down it says it's a 1950 from Canada but the nose plate is what's got me baffled it has a long extrusion the entire length vertically on the nose plate
Is yours a full size 66? They have a shaped nose plate.
Hii, amazing video, thank you!!
I just bought singer 99 num ec577524 but I can't find out how old is she? Is there anywhere I can found out
Thank you 💕
Google Singer Serial Numbers will lead to the ISMACS site, where you can look up the serial number to find the batch date. Your machine was made in 1939. The batch was issues on 28 November 1939.
Hello have you added an earth cable to your 99 singer or just use a plug in circuit breaker? Thank you
Just a plug in circuit breaker.