We had some 50 year old tiles that had loosened and needed to be restuck down. Used the glue tape from Lowe's. It was just the thing to solve our problem. Thank you so much for this video!!!!!!
I never had trouble with tile not sticking until this week. After watching your video I checked my Lowes App and found they had the tape. It is Home Easy brand adhesive strip in the flooring section. I lifted the 2 tiles that needed it as much as I could, applied the tape then rolled the tiles down again. They stayed in place after that. Thanks for keeping us informed!
I've never had them come loose right after being installed, but always made sure to scrub the wax off the existing surface with ammonia before starting. I've seen them peel at the edges and especially the corners after a number of years; that's easy to fix if you catch it early; just put a drop of superglue at each intersection and add enough to fill the surrounding gaps, making sure to keep it off the surface of the tiles. I've used this method on the 60 year-old tiles in my closets and they're still flat.
Thank you so much. I put down a peel and stick tiles from Wallpop and some of the edges and corners were not staying down. I bought the tape you recommended this afternoon and it is so easy to use. I pulled up the problem squares, layer yet tape on the preexistimos flooring along the edges and put the squares back down. Now my new floor is nice and stuck and smooth!
Thanks for this video, good info. I was about to go buy some of this stuff. I'm remodeling a bathroom, and using Home Depot TrafficMaster peel and stick plank-shaped tiles. Laid some nice underlayment, and put a coat of Henry's primer down for good measure. First half of the bathroom worked like a charm, but when I rounded the corner, and started a new box, purchased from a different store, the tiles weren't sticking. I didn't really notice until I had finished the floor. Because I had slightly different underlayment, I thought that was the problem. I tore everything up in that section, and put down new underlayment, and primed again. Bought a 3rd box of tile needed to finish, but started with the remainder from the second box. Quickly discovered that it wasn't the underlayment that was the problem, as again the tiles were popping up. I cracked open the 3rd box, and taking your advice, only laid down a few tiles, and waited overnight. Turns out the 2nd box of tiles were bad. I guess it was old stock, as they were running low when I purchased, and when I bought the 3rd box, there were 20 boxes. Maybe they should put "sell by" dates on these things. If I have any troublesome tiles in the future, I'll revisit this video.
Can I ask how did you use the underlayment with the peel and stick? Like the P&S stuck to the underlayment but what was the underlayment stuck to? Did you do it over tile?
Wish you’d clearly give the name (or show the box more clearly) of the tape. We are in Australia and can’t get the exact product but if you said the name it would help research it.
Hi! Thank you for creating the video! My issue is this. I installed Congoleum Laminate tiles in 2004 throughout a continual range of rooms. All tiles stayed perfect EXCEPT nine (9) that are in front of my ginormous side by side refrigerator. The tiles are NOT damaged (yet) but the edges are coming up. After much pondering on how this could have occurred I finally figured out it is from my use of a carpet deep cleaner in the dining room adjacent. Obviously the liquid must have leaked under the nine tiles in that area and loosened them when I deep cleaned the carpet. The tiles can be made to lie perfectly flat again. Please try not to die laughing when I advise on what I did. I took a pillowcase and turned my iron on high and then quite literally ironed the edges of those 9 tiles on my kitchen floor. My theory was that I could melt enough glue to push it toward the edges thus re-establish contact. I ironed each area until I could see some glue coming up through the pillowcase at the edges of each tile. It worked shockingly brilliantly. However, by the next morning the edges were right back up. My plan worked but did not hold which means there is not sufficient, reactivatable glue under tiles. I must come up with a way to get glue under the tiles. As I'm confident you know, laminate tiles can be VERY EASILY destroyed so attempting to pull them up would DEFINITELY NOT work out and the contractor that I hired for the original installation took the two boxes of spares that I had purchased as I KNOW that sometimes areas are going to have to be fixed or a tile repaired. The tile has been discontinued by Congoleum even though it is a very simple off-white / beige pattern. Here is my thought. IF I could find a way to somehow inject adhesive around and under the edges of the tile that is warping upward and the ends of it, I'm quite confident that I would be golden. The potential problems that I see is if the glue is too rapid drying it could destroy the surface of the tile. Frankly, I don't have a clue about how to shop for glue to re-stick them and the means to "inject around and under the edges". That would require an extremely skinny nozzle of some type. It is imperative that I accomplished this task before it becomes any worse. The ironing of the kitchen floor worked brilliantly but it just is not practical to iron one's kitchen floor as a part of their list of daily chores right up there with a load of laundry and washing the dishes. What are your thoughts about what type of glue to purchase and how to inject it around those edges? I KNOW it would work but I can't think of a tool, other than perhaps a tiny little plunger syringe with a very narrow "mouth" on it. It must be very slow drying so that excess that squishes out can be wiped up without damage to the surface of the laminate. I eagerly await your input! Thank you!
@kimimtinks My brilliant idea of ironing the floor didn't last very long. I ended up pulling the tiles up very carefully using a heat gun and a very wide metal "spackle knife". I made sure every bit of moisture was dried up and then reglued the tiles, edge to edge, with Dap 00136 Weldwood Floor Tile Adhesive, 1-Quart, Clear using a 3/32 trowel to spread the adhesive to the very ends of each tile and on the floor. It took 54 minutes for it to turn clear and ready to replace the tiles. It was a very tedious job BUT I am very glad that I did it myself without having to spend an arm and a leg for someone else to do it. I said it was tedious but really not that complicated at all. I advise purchasing one of those knee pillows that looks like an overgrown sponge before getting started and spread wax paper sheets out where you are going to put the upside down, freshly glued tiles until the glue turns clear where you can put it back on the floor. Also, as I went along with my very careful tile removal so is not to damage them, I found that the water seepage was far beyond just nine tiles. I ended up pulling 15 😑. The heat gun that I purchased, a SEEKONE Heat Gun, made the process of pulling up the tile without damaging them extremely easy. Go back and forth with smooth and steady motion and make sure that you heat the metal "knife/spatula" as well. Don't hold the gun too close to the tile. Just let it gently warm so that the glue becomes malleable. BTW, the first gun that I ordered had an issue and I contacted SEEKONE about it. They sped a replacement to me at the speed of light and it works perfectly. They have tremendous customer service! 🙂 OH‼️A VERY important note! Let any water that is under the tile evaporate! Don't try to wipe it up! You will make gooey blobby stuff that you can't remove and it will show up as bumps when you reinstall the tile ‼️ Just leave it to evaporate. If you have pets or people block off entrances to the room that you are working on until your job is complete. ‼️ Be mindful of the arrows on the bottom of the tiles so that you are certain to put them back in the same places that you pulled them up from and in exactly the same position‼️ Also noteworthy is that I used approximately 80% of the quart of glue on the 15 tiles. I don't recommend buying larger than 1 quart containers even if there is a cost savings. My personal opinion is that larger containers are more difficult to store and product DOES dry up no matter how well you seal it. Any excess glue that I splattered or dropped was cleanable with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I advise putting on a pair of gardening gloves when you are spreading the glue and fill a bottle up with 91% isopropyl alcohol to spritz down any drips that you make and to get the glue off of your fingers or gloves. Don't worry about glue clean up that seeps through the edges of the tiles until after they are very well cured, about 4 days. Then you can clean that up. To make sure that the tiles stayed perfectly flat, my cookbooks, which are quite heavy, finally had a use as I never look in them for recipes but they justify their existence and putting them on top of the new reglued tiles until they cured. They were hard copy cookbooks so I need glue that squashed out on them just rubbed off because the glue turns to a rubbery substance that just "rolls away". I had to "steam clean" the carpets in the adjacent dining and living room last night. Omgosh but I was so extremely careful to make sure that I sucked up every last bit of moisture out of the carpet so that it cannot possibly seep through again. I'm not trying to sell anything but really want to impress, in case someone is in the market for such, the carpet cleaner that I opted to purchase does an absolute brilliant job of pulling up the water. I have had nightmare carpet cleaners in the past that quite literally have dumped the water right back out onto the carpet. The one that I chose to use, that I absolutely praise, is a Hoover SmartWash Pet Complete Purple Machine. Other brands that I have used just do not pull the water back up properly and that is why the kitchen floor got damaged. The water that did not get sucked up seeped through and under the tiles loosening them. When I pulled them up I could clearly see puddles of water. Of course, the recommendation for the carpet cleaner brand that I found to be useful and effective, the Hoover SmartWash Pet Complete Purple Machine is for carpet ONLY, not hard or laminate floors. I cannot help but praise it for its performance and the fact that it literally DOES pull up almost all of the water that is used in the cleaning of the carpet. It has clear tanks and the amount of water that comes back up is clearly identifiable/measurable so I know that those kitchen tiles are not going to be coming back up again. Yikes. I can't even stand the mirror thought of having to go through pulling up and re-gluing tiles again. It wasn't the worst job that I've ever done for household repairs but it certainly seemed one of the more tedious and unpleasant ones. Please, those who read this, feel free to ask me any questions as I will be more than happy to try to simplify the process and guide you along. Wishing everyone out there a very Merry Christmas season and a Happy New Year 🎄⛄❄️🌟🎄🎅
Thank you. I've used self stick before with no problems. This time some tiles didn't stick, ones around the perimeter. I will try some Loc Tite as I'm not near a Lowes. I did everything the same, new underlayment, very clean, recommended primer. I think it's the tiles, not the prep.
Thank you for this video. I was thinking of using vinyl tiles for a backsplash but didn’t want to get too aggressive. This was a good option to know about.
I want to install 12" x 12" peel & stick over 240 sq ft of existing 12" x 12" peel & stick that I installed 34 years ago. The existing floor is level and dry. It has a very slight texture. I just thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned it with TSP. Would it be advisable to trowel on some kind of adhesive skim coat or primer that would smooth out the texture on the existing tile? What would be compatible with the existing floor and the adhesive on the new floor? Should I let the skim coat dry first?
Great tips brother 👍 I am doing my floor a small area in motorhome kitchen with peel n stick plank vinyl these tips will get it going smoothly. I have done. A few floors in past but did not do with primers or adhesives or tapes. These tips people need to know thank you for the vids. Lock tite is strong stuff too
You should only need the Loctite in the situation where you have corners or edges curling up. I don't suggest you use it for the whole tile. Put a nickel-size dot where you have a problem and press down which will spread the adhesive.
Thank you. We’re having a nightmare with ours where the subfloor joints are uneven. When the sun hits it the ends pop up. I realize this video is 5 years old so I’m hoping these products are still available.
You can spray the floor in the area you're working with 3m spray glue. Don't spray the tile. Like he said the tile has great adhesive already on it. When you spray the 3M glue it makes the floor slightly sticky. Night and day difference when trying to stick sticky tile. just don't try to stick the tile down while the spray glue is still wet wait till it tacks up. Doesn't take very long. It's quicker than waiting for a primer to dry
Would the 3m spray work for vinyl tiles that have been compromised with acetone (nail polish remover) ? We are a salon and had a spill.. a few days later the tiles lifted… I’ve tried everything under the sun for these tiles . Even gorilla glue lol if you have any suggestions I would appreciate it !
Hey, would this work for applying the floor tiles to old hardwood flooring? I have a very bad back…Spinal fusion. And there is no possible way I can install a subfloor
Hi instilling this type of floor in a travel trailer camper. I have installed on box so far and now after a few days all edges of the flooring have stuck but the centers have not I can push it down to the sub floor and watch it pop back up anyway to fix this with out having to pull it all back up. I cleaned the floor and let it dry before install so not sure why this is happening. Thanks
Here's a couple things you can try: 1. Get a hair drier and warm up the tile. Slowly pull the tile off, warm the floor with the hair drier for about 20 seconds, then warm the adhesive side of the tile for about 20 seconds, then press the tile back in place. Then apply some heat to the tile again while applying a little pressure with your hand. This process will hopefully get the adhesive to flow again evenly throughout the tile. You may have some adhesive stuck to your fingers so getsome help from someone whose hands stay clean to press down on the tile. If that doesn;t work, I suggest this tape www.lowes.com/pd/HOMEeasy-1-875-in-x-75-ft-Tan-Double-Sided-Seam-Tape/999920702
I recently discovered Gorilla Brand Super Glue works great. It's expensive but it only takes a tiny dot and it bonds your tile almost instantly to concrete or wood.
Thanks for watching the video. I have recently discovered that Gorilla Brand Super Glue works great. I tiny dot on the edges or stubborn corners is all it takes.
1st time installing vinyl peel and stick. I tried the locktite adhesive which works but the tiles still move, is that normal until the grout is put in? Also vinyl grout gray is out of stock. Can I use premixed grout for porcelain tile? Thanks!!!
We generally don't grout this tile because it's so thin. If the tiles are moving, it may be because you used too much adhesive, the temperature or humidity is too high, or the adhesive on the peel & stick tile is not a good companion for the Locktite. Or maybe you just need to give it a little more time to set.
@@mazerwholesale Haven't tried it yet. I'm headed out to buy Loctite Power Grab Ultimate. After a little research on Loctite products I decided this may better suit my particular need. I will post an update in a few days. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
@@mazerwholesale It's only been 48 hrs but so far so good. Backstory: Had to do quick repair. Leaky toilet turned into partial subfloor repair. All the original vinyl sheet was ripped up but no time to do proper removal. Parts of vinyl separated, so the floor was uneven. I knew I was asking for trouble but this had to be finished ASAP. Filled in big dips with Henry's floor filler (?), Some kind of sand based leveler. Anyway, I had some tiles lifting up. One spot for example, I had 4 corners lifting where they met. I believe there was a small dip in the floor there. I tried gorilla super glue but no luck. Lasted about 30 minutes. I used the Loctite Power Grab Ultimate Clear and had to press down and cover with 20 pound dumbbell for approx 12 hours. 2 days latter it is still holding. If you like, remind me in a few weeks/month and I will give you an update. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I used this stuff in about 10 different locations on this floor. I had even tried heating the tiles with a heat gun to soften them to conform to the small dips but they still kept popping up. I will be very happy if this works long term. Of course proper prep is the key, but sometimes that just isn't an option. Aloha
Sorry for the delayed response. The tape is generally referred to as CARPET TAPE. It's a bit tedious to apply for an entire installation. Other options are Contact Cement, Locktite, or construction adhesive such as Liquid Nail. Gorilla Glue makes great stuff, but their glue expands and is very difficult to remove if you make a mistake. Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue that is CRAZY strong...if you just need to reglue stubborn corers down, use a DOT - like 1/4 the size of a dime.
@@ShadowDancer6990 Sorry for the delayed response. The tape is generally referred to as CARPET TAPE. It's a bit tedious to apply for an entire installation. Other options are Contact Cement, Locktite, or construction adhesive such as Liquid Nail. Gorilla Glue makes great stuff, but their glue expands and is very difficult to remove if you make a mistake. Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue that is CRAZY strong...if you just need to reglue stubborn corers down, use a DOT - like 1/4 the size of a dime.
How do you apply the loctite all purpose adhesive caulk to an entire self adhesive tile? Do you cover both the floor and the adhesive side of the tile? Or just the floor? Do you use a serrated trowel or just something flat like a putty knife? How long should you wait for the caulk to set before placing the tile down? Thanks
The best way would be to use a notched trowel. Just apply a little bit to the back of the tile. Start near the middle and pull it out toward the edges and corners. I a little goes a long way.
@@mazerwholesale Do I have to wait a certain amount of time before placing the tile down. Some adhesives say to wait 5 minutes to allow the adhesive to form legs.
Thank you for your video. I want to lay self adhesive vinyl tiles to patch an area of an old already tiled floor. There are some uneven dusty patches of about 3-4 inches here and there. I think the floor is made of screed. Is there something I can put into these spots before laying the tiles?
There's a product called floor patch (or floor leveler). It's available in every hardware store. It's made to fill cracks, holes, and voids to make your subfloor level prior to installing a new floor. It comes in powdered form or pre-mixed to use right out of the can. It's easy.
I used peel and stick vinyl in my lanai area. Even though it was not recommended I liked the pattern and it covered rough concrete space so my kid can play. I used a latex primer on the concrete surface before I stuck the vinyl. However because of cold weather, I notice the edges lifting off in some areas. Read that the vinyl shrinks in cold weather and expands in warm weather. What can I apply on the edges and between so it expands and contracts according to weather? I have some pics that I can share for better reference. Pl suggest.
Sorry for the late reply. In my experience, when the tiles are installed in moderate temperatures, the temperature changes don't affect the tile later. This is my experience using and selling the tile for 20 years.
Even after all the bad reviews on wall pops my mother still brought them for me. I laid 9 boxes on my kitchen floor the next day I noticed the edges on most of them lifted. I was told by someone to use gorilla spray adhesive it looked like it was working but slowly the edges lifted again. Help I don't know what to do.
I' sorry to know about your troubles with your tile. I don't know anything about that brand but here's something to try: Go get some flooring adhesive in a can. Warm up the tiles with a hair dryer and peel back on the corner(s) sticking up. Peel back far enough to smear some adhesive on the floor and then press the tile down again. Don't use too much adhesive. If you use too much, it won't dry. No guarantees, but give it a try. Some people I know have used Liquid Nail or Locktite All Purpose Adhesive. Please let me know how it works out for you!
I have personally never used it but many of my customers have and they report that Loctite works great. However, I have not feedback about removal. I imagine it will be much more difficult than 2-sided tape.
In our experience and selling to 1000's of customers, the tile should not be installed in extreme temperature conditions. However, once the adhesive cures (at least a week), temperature extremes don't seem to affect it. I would say, avoid traffic on the tile for as long as you can if your temperatures are hot or cold within a few weeks of installation.
First I suggest you try warming the tile with a hair dryer. This will reactivate the glue. Warm each tile well individually and then run your hands on them with pressure as you probably did during installation. Let it be overnight and see how that works. If it doesn't work, try one of the adhesives I recommended in the video.
Will this work on rentals? If so, do you have any recommendations on how to remove the sticky remainder when moving out? If this isn’t good for rentals, do you have a product that you would recommend?
I have found that Goo Gone is the best and safest product to dissolve glue residue. You can find it at all the big hardware stores and automotive stores. NOT Goof-Off....Goo-Gone.
Thanks. I have base flooring that after the old tile was removed, I cleaned with a primer sold at HD by floor tile dept.Thanks a bunch! Was pretty labor intensive but Loctite you recommended here did the trick. I’ll never use primer again!
Just go to Lowes.com or homedepot.com and type FLOOR TAPE into the search right at the top of their website and you will see a selection of product. BUT THEN, call your local hardware store and see if they carry any of the products because it's better to support your local, independently-owned merchant.
mazerwholesale thanks- nearest Lowes is over 130miles one way, and if they had the tape, they couldnt find it. I wound up getting adhesive 4 the gun and will need to go one tile at a time. I will never use primer again. (Backfired on me)ʻ
We just filled in grout of our ceramic tile floor, waited a few days and cleaned the floors well with Krud Kutter. The peel and stick tiles are not sticking at all. Should we apply a separate glue to the backs of them, or just use the recommended tape? It’s a very tiny laundry room pass thru...
Hey, we are putting down peel and stick to our floors in the living room … we removed the old flooring and applying the new floor to the concrete we are using the Henry primer and made sure to clean the floors really well. We did one section the other night and woke up the next morning to the whole section buckling in the middle. We don’t know what to do from here. Home Depot said it could be a bad primer , it could be moisture in the concrete which there shouldn’t be any since we had carpet under the old flooring anyway… we are frustrated and just don’t know where to go from here. She told me to try putting one piece down without using the primer to see if it may be the primer that’s bad … what do you think??
Over the years, we have found that the Henry's Bond Enhancer (Primer) works SOMETIMES. We learned of it from a customer who raved about it. I have never needed it on ANY of my installations in my home, garage, or in areas we tiled in our warehouse. Some surfaces, whether concrete or wood simply won't cooperate with the tile. It's a mystery. However, I recently discovered Gorilla Glue Super Glue is incredible. It works and it's instant...like SECONDS. I just purched a bottle of the regular All-Purpose Gorilla Glue to try it out. (It's the brown liquid-looks like maple syrup.) I will go try it in one spot right now...be right back!
I just tried the brown glue and it's not good for sticking the tile down. The Gorilla Super Glue works great. I put a dot in each corner and a dot in between on each side. BINGO. It works great. The little bottle is less than an ounce and it costs around $6. Not cheap, but it works. www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-0-71-oz-Super-Glue-78056/100661959
@@mazerwholesale Did you use the GEL formulation, or the non-gel Super Glue? I have some old 12x12 tiles that have loosened up, and no longer sticking, and some corners curling up.
The adhesive works best on a semi-pourus surface like wood or concrete. Not sure how it will behave on glass. If you're thinking of using on a vertical surface, this is definitely not a good choice.
I don't remember but I was there recently and they had it in the store I was in. They probably have it at Home Depot too. It's right next to the flooring adhesives in the cans and buckets
Do you think I can remove my peel and stick backsplash with a blowdryer and then reapply with the super sticky tape underneath, so that it’s super straight and a permanent solution ?
will it stick to already existing soild sheet of linoleum????????????????????? linoleum has a tiny bit of a textured look like a terrible paint job orange peel texture. its not 100 smooth but may be beter than my subfloor
I'm sorry for the delayed response. Although the tile factory doesn't recommend it, I know MANY of our customers have installthe our tile over existing vinyl floors like yours. I also installed tile over the existing tile I installed in my garage. Here's the video ua-cam.com/video/NUZ2oPG25Gg/v-deo.html
I have a small area near my grout line at the tub that I had to puddy with wood buddy which is about 5 x2 long and I'm concerned my sticky tiles will not stick to the wood puddy which says plastic/wood on tube. The tile will be right up against the tub and the side of tile could easily come up but wondering it the calking might hold it down as glue.
You MUST use extra adhesive to stick this floor tile to the wall, otherwise, it won't stick. The adhesive on the tile is really good but it doesn't work well in the vertical position. Customers tell me they use Liquid Nail. I have never used it on the wall so I can't give advice from experience.
Thanks I figured that, Im putting it on one of my basement exterior backed walls. Doing research and purchasing material now just waiting for some warm weather on long island. Thanks again
Jeremy, a few questions: 1) What brand of tile are you using? 2) Is it Peel & Stick? 3) Are you installing the tile on top of old tile? Fresh subfloor (Luan/Plywood)?
I realize this was a while ago, so I don't expect a response, but my tile isn't sticking evenly because of the uneven surface I have. Would you recommend peeling the tiles back up to add the double-sided tape? The tile is just crackling when I walk over it, as if it isn't sticking evenly. I used a hardboard underlayer rolled with mold-resistant latex primer. I plan to caulk the small cracks in between, hoping that improves the seal and softens the edges. Any advice to the contrary?
I think your idea is right on. If you've got a lot of tiles to work on, the tape will probably be rather expensive. You may want to use Loctite All Purpose Adhesive or Liquid Nail which many of our customers have used successfully.
We purchased some grout-less, mother of pearl tiles that I thought were the "peel and stick" variety. Bought them online and didn't want to go through the hassle of sending them back to exchange for the peel and stick ones. We planned to use them in a RV remodel as a kitchen backsplash. I don't think thinset would hold up long in RV and was wondering if this double-sided tape could be used to hold the tiles in place. They are quite thin and lightweight. Someone suggested spray adhesive, but after viewing your video, the tape appears to be something similar to peel and stick adhesive. My only concern is the longevity of a vertical installation.
I think it'll work but I'm afraid I can't answer your question with certainty. It's going to cost you about $9.00 to find out...you're just going to have to test it.
mazerwholesale hello sir, ty for your videos,,,very much helpful, however me snd my hubby are having a friend install our Armstrong adhesive vinly tiles,,,he wants us to get pressure sensitive glue, have you heard of this before and should i let him use the glue?
If he's the expert, he should go and buy the glue. How are YOU to know which glue to buy? There are all kinds of glue. If the glue on the back of the tile weren't any good, Armstrong wouldn't be around for all these years.
What would you [anyone] suggest for an additional adhesive when the peel & stick tile has lost some of its adhesive strength ?....I have boxes of peel & stick but it's at least 15 years old and has been stored in areas where temperatures get "Single digit" cold. They still have adhesion but I recently put down several squares to see if they were worth keeping. The tile's adhesive textures like new tile, But once installed, The contact only grabs initially then after about 5 minutes, It gives a slight "Pucker-up" effect close to the edges as it loses its grip....LIQUID NAILS IS NOT THE ANSWER !!!!....To get favorable results, You need the corners and edges to adhere but liquid nails (or similar 10oz chalk-type tubes) keeps trying to goosh out at the parting lines and it either "Skin" or turns brittle if you let it "Tack-Dry" before installing the tile....
Many customers of ours have said the Liquid Nail works great. I've never used it. However, if you put any glue, it'll ooze out a bit. You just need to wipe away the excess. Also, just last night I found the Locktite brand makes a spray adhesive. I saw it in Dollar General for $8.00 (pretty large can). That could be a consideration. However, I would prefer you go to an independently-owned hardware store. I avoid the chain stores whenever possible. Keep it local!!! Good luck and thank you for your comment.
You need to either use 3M spray glue or some contact cement with a roller. Both of them you cover each surface, let it dry, then stick them together. No oozing. You only have one shot to get it aligned because once the surfaces touch you're done.
Locktite all purpose was what I tried first , crazy bit is the locktite seems to not adhere to the glue that's already on the peel n stick tile , it's literally drying underneath then I can easily pull the tile off the wall again ,,,, only thing I can try now is taking some sort of filler putty to try and get the surface as smooth as possible, because these things are refusing to stay on the wall
We use peel & stick on concrete all the time. Some customers do report problems. There could be other variables such as temperature, surface preparation, highly repellant concrete sealer, or a bad batch of peel & stick. I have something you may want to try and I can send it to you to test. Call me at 1-800-343-0780
Thanks for the recommendation! Is there a special technique for applying the all purpose glue? Should you put it down and let it get tacky before laying your tile back down or will it work fine to spread the glue and immediately replace the tile?
I have never had the need to use extra adhesive in any of my installations so I can't speak from experience. 1. I think you should read the directions on the product because it may have the exact answer for you. If not, I would say to use a very small amount about 3/4" from each corner (like the size of a dime) and maybe the same amount in the middle of the tile. The adhesive (on OUR tile) is very strong and doesn't really need any help. Trouble spots usually occur on a corner here and there.
Sorry those tips didn't help me at all. The tile is already down so how am I supposed to use that tape? It's just the very edge lifting not the whole tile. Yeah I see that tube adhesive being a huge mess.
Here's what you do: Get a hair dryer and warm up the tiles you want to stick down with the tape. The tile will peel back easily when warmed. Then you can apply the tape and press the tile down again. I recommend you warm up the tile again when you press the tile down again and apply a weight like a book or a chair leg. You don;t have to apply too much weight. Just enough to keep in in place for 20 minutes or so.
I'm about to put peel and stick vinyl planks in my little 22 ft rv. I've watched a lot people on youtube do this. Someone mentioned maybe 2 coats of the self-stick tile primer. I know you said you never have used it but considering the temperature fluctuation in an RV just seems to me like it might be a good idea. What do you think? I used the Henry's patch and level and put one coat of primer so far.
I have had customers tell me it worked great for them and also had customers who said it didn't help at all. I have never used it on any of my installations...never needed it. I'm sorry I can't respond with a certain answer.
That's going to be a challenge. Paint is made NOT to come off easily. Go to a real PAINT STORE and ask for some advice. That's the best I can tell you.
i put my stick tiles down about 4 years ago but now i notice some are lifting on the edges so not sure if i should use the glue or the tape .. the glue looks easier to just put in and under the edges , its the kitchen floor , this gives me some idea on what to use though . Thanks for sharing ~
Thank you for your question. I'm curious as to what brand of tile you used. If you remember, please let me know. As for the adhesive, Locktite All-Purpose Adhesive is good and I've had customers who told me Liquid Nail works well. You may also want to consider looking at Henry's line of flooring adhesives: www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=420
I got them at lowes not very expensive but still nice they were like 35c each half price sale ... ya maybe liquid nails.. i just tried a hairdryer thought it would help make the edges more sticky . but that didnt work to well ..
Hey, Wife just picked up a ton of peel and stick planks for .24 cent a square foot. Well it's OSB under the carpet. She bought 1000 square feet. Is there anyway this can still be done using the OSB? Thanks.
It's my understanding that OBS doesn't like the adhesive on self-stick tile. I suggest you lay ONE piece and see how it behaves overnight or over a couple days. If not good, then try adding adhesive or continue your research. That's the best I can tell you. You sure got a good deal on the material!
Sealer is actually the enemy. That's what prevents liquids and chemicals from penetrating into the surface. The glue IS a liquid and a chemical and in order to create a bond, it must seep in to a certain extent. That's why I think sealer is a bad move. However, there's a product called Henry's Bond Enhancer. It's a sealer but it's made to bond well with self-stick flooring. You can Google it and read the specs.
If you go to Lowe's and ask for transfer tape, they will be stymied. It's called Double Sided seam tape. Hate it when these guys who do videos speak in their industry vernacular rather than actual product names.
Can anybody tell me how to do floor with self-stick tiles on the concrete floor in a basement bathroom in cold weather? I put new self-stick tiles in basement bathroom on concret floor. Next day I saw some of joint is not stay stick on the floor.
Adhesive does NOT like to be applied to a cold surface. However, if you already have the tile down and you want to address some edges or corners which are coming up, try Locktite All-Purpose Adhesive.
Use a heat gun.. maybe even a hair dryer if you don't have that. Heat the floor to where it is not cold.. not to where it is warm per se, just not cold. Then heat the tile a bit to where it is somewhat warm - helps the glue get even more sticky - then stick the tile down.
I have been using a small space heater and I use it to warm up the floor and a tile at the same time. It's the floor tile it gets too hot the adhesive comes off. So what I do is wait until the tile gets slightly softened and then I lay it down right away and roll it down with a hard roller
Let me say something , i' installed quick ''laminate in all my 3 room and hallway , no problem with the click , I wanted to try one room in the lower floor with this vinyl stick '' 3 boxes of style collection no box code 737983 blue /white box , price per box $53 dollars , this product does not stick to my clean new sub wood floor , I shouldn't have to buy any clue or primer , will return this crap back to Lowes .
Seldom my ass. Removed clear coat from vinyl floor. Sanded it as well to rough it up. Washed, then self dry and tack cloth. Fucking corners lift. They are a joke. Say you can't glue them. BS. Use vinyl glue and they stick.
I feel for you 3 yrs after you and I am in the same boat. Tried using Henry glue, not working that great only on the tiles that hardly have glue. I had stick tiles that were awesome, not the Pops Cameron looks like marble, grey and white, I order from 2 different sources and they are not good, some stick, some don't and the edges keep lifting. So Sorry I ever decided to do my kitchen with these tiles. I had used the Pops Emilia and they were perfect. Now I am looking at a floor half done and I am exhausted 240 tiles yikes! What tiles do I put full glue on, what glue? I will check out the tape, use the blow dryer and 2 faced tape and someone said gorilla super glue. ugh!! Customer service they don't care. All I can say is this Cameron stick tiles don't stick. Thanks I had to vent.
Thank you for your advise. This was exactly the answer that i was looking for. Professionals like you are highly in demand. Keep up the good work!
We had some 50 year old tiles that had loosened and needed to be restuck down. Used the glue tape from Lowe's. It was just the thing to solve our problem. Thank you so much for this video!!!!!!
That tape...is...AWESOME!! I'm so glad I found your video. I was able to get my bathroom and closet done today. $8.96 a roll
I never had trouble with tile not sticking until this week. After watching your video I checked my Lowes App and found they had the tape. It is Home Easy brand adhesive strip in the flooring section. I lifted the 2 tiles that needed it as much as I could, applied the tape then rolled the tiles down again. They stayed in place after that. Thanks for keeping us informed!
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate your feedback and I'm really glad this recommendation was right for you.
I've never had them come loose right after being installed, but always made sure to scrub the wax off the existing surface with ammonia before starting. I've seen them peel at the edges and especially the corners after a number of years; that's easy to fix if you catch it early; just put a drop of superglue at each intersection and add enough to fill the surrounding gaps, making sure to keep it off the surface of the tiles. I've used this method on the 60 year-old tiles in my closets and they're still flat.
Thank you so much. I put down a peel and stick tiles from Wallpop and some of the edges and corners were not staying down. I bought the tape you recommended this afternoon and it is so easy to use. I pulled up the problem squares, layer yet tape on the preexistimos flooring along the edges and put the squares back down. Now my new floor is nice and stuck and smooth!
Thank you for sharing your experience!
Same problem here, floorpops are popping off. Thanks so much😊
Same problem here, floorpops are popping off. Thanks so much😊
Wallpop tiles are cute, but the peel and stick backing is worthless.
Thanks for this video, good info. I was about to go buy some of this stuff. I'm remodeling a bathroom, and using Home Depot TrafficMaster peel and stick plank-shaped tiles. Laid some nice underlayment, and put a coat of Henry's primer down for good measure. First half of the bathroom worked like a charm, but when I rounded the corner, and started a new box, purchased from a different store, the tiles weren't sticking. I didn't really notice until I had finished the floor. Because I had slightly different underlayment, I thought that was the problem. I tore everything up in that section, and put down new underlayment, and primed again. Bought a 3rd box of tile needed to finish, but started with the remainder from the second box. Quickly discovered that it wasn't the underlayment that was the problem, as again the tiles were popping up. I cracked open the 3rd box, and taking your advice, only laid down a few tiles, and waited overnight. Turns out the 2nd box of tiles were bad. I guess it was old stock, as they were running low when I purchased, and when I bought the 3rd box, there were 20 boxes. Maybe they should put "sell by" dates on these things.
If I have any troublesome tiles in the future, I'll revisit this video.
Can I ask how did you use the underlayment with the peel and stick? Like the P&S stuck to the underlayment but what was the underlayment stuck to? Did you do it over tile?
Not supposed to underlay or prime
Wish you’d clearly give the name (or show the box more clearly) of the tape. We are in Australia and can’t get the exact product but if you said the name it would help research it.
The tape brand is "HOMEeasy" it's a double sided adhesive tape for vinyl flooring.
Hi! Thank you for creating the video!
My issue is this. I installed Congoleum Laminate tiles in 2004 throughout a continual range of rooms. All tiles stayed perfect EXCEPT nine (9) that are in front of my ginormous side by side refrigerator. The tiles are NOT damaged (yet) but the edges are coming up.
After much pondering on how this could have occurred I finally figured out it is from my use of a carpet deep cleaner in the dining room adjacent. Obviously the liquid must have leaked under the nine tiles in that area and loosened them when I deep cleaned the carpet.
The tiles can be made to lie perfectly flat again. Please try not to die laughing when I advise on what I did. I took a pillowcase and turned my iron on high and then quite literally ironed the edges of those 9 tiles on my kitchen floor. My theory was that I could melt enough glue to push it toward the edges thus re-establish contact. I ironed each area until I could see some glue coming up through the pillowcase at the edges of each tile. It worked shockingly brilliantly. However, by the next morning the edges were right back up. My plan worked but did not hold which means there is not sufficient, reactivatable glue under tiles.
I must come up with a way to get glue under the tiles.
As I'm confident you know, laminate tiles can be VERY EASILY destroyed so attempting to pull them up would DEFINITELY NOT work out and the contractor that I hired for the original installation took the two boxes of spares that I had purchased as I KNOW that sometimes areas are going to have to be fixed or a tile repaired. The tile has been discontinued by Congoleum even though it is a very simple off-white / beige pattern.
Here is my thought. IF I could find a way to somehow inject adhesive around and under the edges of the tile that is warping upward and the ends of it, I'm quite confident that I would be golden. The potential problems that I see is if the glue is too rapid drying it could destroy the surface of the tile. Frankly, I don't have a clue about how to shop for glue to re-stick them and the means to "inject around and under the edges". That would require an extremely skinny nozzle of some type.
It is imperative that I accomplished this task before it becomes any worse. The ironing of the kitchen floor worked brilliantly but it just is not practical to iron one's kitchen floor as a part of their list of daily chores right up there with a load of laundry and washing the dishes.
What are your thoughts about what type of glue to purchase and how to inject it around those edges? I KNOW it would work but I can't think of a tool, other than perhaps a tiny little plunger syringe with a very narrow "mouth" on it. It must be very slow drying so that excess that squishes out can be wiped up without damage to the surface of the laminate.
I eagerly await your input!
Thank you!
I need to know this as well. Thanks for asking this question.
@kimimtinks
My brilliant idea of ironing the floor didn't last very long. I ended up pulling the tiles up very carefully using a heat gun and a very wide metal "spackle knife". I made sure every bit of moisture was dried up and then reglued the tiles, edge to edge, with Dap 00136 Weldwood Floor Tile Adhesive, 1-Quart, Clear using a 3/32 trowel to spread the adhesive to the very ends of each tile and on the floor. It took 54 minutes for it to turn clear and ready to replace the tiles. It was a very tedious job BUT I am very glad that I did it myself without having to spend an arm and a leg for someone else to do it. I said it was tedious but really not that complicated at all.
I advise purchasing one of those knee pillows that looks like an overgrown sponge before getting started and spread wax paper sheets out where you are going to put the upside down, freshly glued tiles until the glue turns clear where you can put it back on the floor.
Also, as I went along with my very careful tile removal so is not to damage them, I found that the water seepage was far beyond just nine tiles. I ended up pulling 15 😑. The heat gun that I purchased, a SEEKONE Heat Gun, made the process of pulling up the tile without damaging them extremely easy. Go back and forth with smooth and steady motion and make sure that you heat the metal "knife/spatula" as well. Don't hold the gun too close to the tile. Just let it gently warm so that the glue becomes malleable.
BTW, the first gun that I ordered had an issue and I contacted SEEKONE about it. They sped a replacement to me at the speed of light and it works perfectly. They have tremendous customer service! 🙂
OH‼️A VERY important note! Let any water that is under the tile evaporate! Don't try to wipe it up! You will make gooey blobby stuff that you can't remove and it will show up as bumps when you reinstall the tile ‼️ Just leave it to evaporate. If you have pets or people block off entrances to the room that you are working on until your job is complete.
‼️ Be mindful of the arrows on the bottom of the tiles so that you are certain to put them back in the same places that you pulled them up from and in exactly the same position‼️
Also noteworthy is that I used approximately 80% of the quart of glue on the 15 tiles. I don't recommend buying larger than 1 quart containers even if there is a cost savings. My personal opinion is that larger containers are more difficult to store and product DOES dry up no matter how well you seal it.
Any excess glue that I splattered or dropped was cleanable with 91% isopropyl alcohol.
I advise putting on a pair of gardening gloves when you are spreading the glue and fill a bottle up with 91% isopropyl alcohol to spritz down any drips that you make and to get the glue off of your fingers or gloves. Don't worry about glue clean up that seeps through the edges of the tiles until after they are very well cured, about 4 days. Then you can clean that up. To make sure that the tiles stayed perfectly flat, my cookbooks, which are quite heavy, finally had a use as I never look in them for recipes but they justify their existence and putting them on top of the new reglued tiles until they cured. They were hard copy cookbooks so I need glue that squashed out on them just rubbed off because the glue turns to a rubbery substance that just "rolls away".
I had to "steam clean" the carpets in the adjacent dining and living room last night. Omgosh but I was so extremely careful to make sure that I sucked up every last bit of moisture out of the carpet so that it cannot possibly seep through again.
I'm not trying to sell anything but really want to impress, in case someone is in the market for such, the carpet cleaner that I opted to purchase does an absolute brilliant job of pulling up the water. I have had nightmare carpet cleaners in the past that quite literally have dumped the water right back out onto the carpet. The one that I chose to use, that I absolutely praise, is a Hoover SmartWash Pet Complete Purple Machine. Other brands that I have used just do not pull the water back up properly and that is why the kitchen floor got damaged. The water that did not get sucked up seeped through and under the tiles loosening them. When I pulled them up I could clearly see puddles of water.
Of course, the recommendation for the carpet cleaner brand that I found to be useful and effective, the Hoover SmartWash Pet Complete Purple Machine is for carpet ONLY, not hard or laminate floors. I cannot help but praise it for its performance and the fact that it literally DOES pull up almost all of the water that is used in the cleaning of the carpet. It has clear tanks and the amount of water that comes back up is clearly identifiable/measurable so I know that those kitchen tiles are not going to be coming back up again. Yikes. I can't even stand the mirror thought of having to go through pulling up and re-gluing tiles again. It wasn't the worst job that I've ever done for household repairs but it certainly seemed one of the more tedious and unpleasant ones.
Please, those who read this, feel free to ask me any questions as I will be more than happy to try to simplify the process and guide you along.
Wishing everyone out there a very Merry Christmas season and a Happy New Year 🎄⛄❄️🌟🎄🎅
Great video. Very concise and to the point!! Thank you.
Thank you for watching the video. Good luck with your installation.
Thank you. I've used self stick before with no problems. This time some tiles didn't stick, ones around the perimeter. I will try some Loc Tite as I'm not near a Lowes. I did everything the same, new underlayment, very clean, recommended primer. I think it's the tiles, not the prep.
Thank you for this video. I was thinking of using vinyl tiles for a backsplash but didn’t want to get too aggressive. This was a good option to know about.
We don't recommend using this tile on a vertical surface.
I want to install 12" x 12" peel & stick over 240 sq ft of existing 12" x 12" peel & stick that I installed 34 years ago. The existing floor is level and dry. It has a very slight texture. I just thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned it with TSP. Would it be advisable to trowel on some kind of adhesive skim coat or primer that would smooth out the texture on the existing tile? What would be compatible with the existing floor and the adhesive on the new floor? Should I let the skim coat dry first?
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for the video and info!
Great tips brother 👍 I am doing my floor a small area in motorhome kitchen with peel n stick plank vinyl these tips will get it going smoothly. I have done. A few floors in past but did not do with primers or adhesives or tapes. These tips people need to know thank you for the vids. Lock tite is strong stuff too
Thank you for watching and thanks especially for your comment.
How do you apply the loctitite? Do you squirt it on the floor or on the back of the tile? Do you spread it out? Is there a video of you using it?
You should only need the Loctite in the situation where you have corners or edges curling up. I don't suggest you use it for the whole tile. Put a nickel-size dot where you have a problem and press down which will spread the adhesive.
What is the name of the tape
Thank you. We’re having a nightmare with ours where the subfloor joints are uneven. When the sun hits it the ends pop up. I realize this video is 5 years old so I’m hoping these products are still available.
Not going to solve your problem. Replace with floating floor
Much appreciated video. Great day to everyone in 2020!
You can spray the floor in the area you're working with 3m spray glue. Don't spray the tile. Like he said the tile has great adhesive already on it. When you spray the 3M glue it makes the floor slightly sticky. Night and day difference when trying to stick sticky tile. just don't try to stick the tile down while the spray glue is still wet wait till it tacks up. Doesn't take very long. It's quicker than waiting for a primer to dry
That's probably great advice. I just bought a can of that at my last trip to the Hardware store so I will give it a try. Thank you!
Would the 3m spray work for vinyl tiles that have been compromised with acetone (nail polish remover) ? We are a salon and had a spill.. a few days later the tiles lifted… I’ve tried everything under the sun for these tiles . Even gorilla glue lol if you have any suggestions I would appreciate it !
They have crap adhesive on them unfortunately. Ur gonna have to use glue. Never had any luck with self adhesive ALWAYS have to use extra glue
Which kind of 3M? Multi purpose 77, rubber and vinyl 80, or high strength 90?
Hey, would this work for applying the floor tiles to old hardwood flooring? I have a very bad back…Spinal fusion. And there is no possible way I can install a subfloor
Really really good information thank you my friend
Glad to be of assistance. Good luck.
We've purchased from you guys, great products. And reasonably priced.
It's very kind of you to leave a little public praise....THANK YOU!
I used this stuff to stick insulation to my basement walls , figured if i could use it on insulation why not vynil floor as well. It works great
What exactly did you use?
Very knowledgeable video. Thank you.
I bought lowes self-stick floor tiles to put on the wall and they would fall off after about five minutes. The home easy tape stuff works great
I bought Armstrong peel and stick groutable and had the same problem.
It's probably the floor you are putting it on.
@@loritaylor383 Well I put it on a wall. The adhesive is not sticky enough to hold the weight of the tile vertically
Hi instilling this type of floor in a travel trailer camper. I have installed on box so far and now after a few days all edges of the flooring have stuck but the centers have not I can push it down to the sub floor and watch it pop back up anyway to fix this with out having to pull it all back up. I cleaned the floor and let it dry before install so not sure why this is happening. Thanks
Here's a couple things you can try: 1. Get a hair drier and warm up the tile. Slowly pull the tile off, warm the floor with the hair drier for about 20 seconds, then warm the adhesive side of the tile for about 20 seconds, then press the tile back in place. Then apply some heat to the tile again while applying a little pressure with your hand. This process will hopefully get the adhesive to flow again evenly throughout the tile. You may have some adhesive stuck to your fingers so getsome help from someone whose hands stay clean to press down on the tile. If that doesn;t work, I suggest this tape www.lowes.com/pd/HOMEeasy-1-875-in-x-75-ft-Tan-Double-Sided-Seam-Tape/999920702
Thank you for your information!
what is the brand name and model for the fist tape?
Need name for the tape
If you find out can you please tell me thanks..
Andrew does this work w/ wall tiles, live in C. Europe it has a backing of 3M VHB don;t want small hand maxes to break
Thank you ,with respect 🙏.
Thanks for sharing your info sir!
Would be nice if you had a link to that tape.
I think I have a better solution for you: Gorilla Glue Brand super glue. One tiny dot about 1/2" from the corner of the tile. It works instantly.
Thanks
Will either of these ruin ceramic tile underneath? I want to put the vinyl floor tiles over ugly ceramic in my rental and they’re not sticking thanks
I don't advise it if you're worried about losing your security deposit.
Thank you So Much!!
I recently discovered Gorilla Brand Super Glue works great. It's expensive but it only takes a tiny dot and it bonds your tile almost instantly to concrete or wood.
Thank you Andrew from Uk
Thanks for watching the video. I have recently discovered that Gorilla Brand Super Glue works great. I tiny dot on the edges or stubborn corners is all it takes.
Hello what’s the name of the tape ??
Thank you, this video answered my question. 👾
Would you recommend putting epoxy or something over top of the peel and stick planks if it's in a bathroom rental?
No...I think you would run into a really expensive and messy problem.
@@andrewmazer4748 ended up finding some sealant that is for this kind of tile it looks beautiful.
1st time installing vinyl peel and stick. I tried the locktite adhesive which works but the tiles still move, is that normal until the grout is put in? Also vinyl grout gray is out of stock. Can I use premixed grout for porcelain tile? Thanks!!!
We generally don't grout this tile because it's so thin. If the tiles are moving, it may be because you used too much adhesive, the temperature or humidity is too high, or the adhesive on the peel & stick tile is not a good companion for the Locktite. Or maybe you just need to give it a little more time to set.
Thank you so much.
Did it work for you? Which product did you use?
@@mazerwholesale Haven't tried it yet. I'm headed out to buy Loctite Power Grab Ultimate. After a little research on Loctite products I decided this may better suit my particular need. I will post an update in a few days. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
@@punasurf4697 I would really appreciate feedback on your results and the product you end up using.
@@mazerwholesale It's only been 48 hrs but so far so good. Backstory: Had to do quick repair. Leaky toilet turned into partial subfloor repair. All the original vinyl sheet was ripped up but no time to do proper removal. Parts of vinyl separated, so the floor was uneven. I knew I was asking for trouble but this had to be finished ASAP. Filled in big dips with Henry's floor filler (?), Some kind of sand based leveler.
Anyway, I had some tiles lifting up. One spot for example, I had 4 corners lifting where they met. I believe there was a small dip in the floor there. I tried gorilla super glue but no luck. Lasted about 30 minutes. I used the Loctite Power Grab Ultimate Clear and had to press down and cover with 20 pound dumbbell for approx 12 hours. 2 days latter it is still holding. If you like, remind me in a few weeks/month and I will give you an update.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I used this stuff in about 10 different locations on this floor. I had even tried heating the tiles with a heat gun to soften them to conform to the small dips but they still kept popping up. I will be very happy if this works long term. Of course proper prep is the key, but sometimes that just isn't an option.
Aloha
Can this work for walls as well, there coming of a little bit,?
The peel on peel off wall tiles that is
No. Floor tile will not stick on walls.
Outstanding
Thanks man.
What the name of the tape?
I am wondering also.
Sorry for the delayed response. The tape is generally referred to as CARPET TAPE. It's a bit tedious to apply for an entire installation. Other options are Contact Cement, Locktite, or construction adhesive such as Liquid Nail. Gorilla Glue makes great stuff, but their glue expands and is very difficult to remove if you make a mistake. Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue that is CRAZY strong...if you just need to reglue stubborn corers down, use a DOT - like 1/4 the size of a dime.
@@ShadowDancer6990 Sorry for the delayed response. The tape is generally referred to as CARPET TAPE. It's a bit tedious to apply for an entire installation. Other options are Contact Cement, Locktite, or construction adhesive such as Liquid Nail. Gorilla Glue makes great stuff, but their glue expands and is very difficult to remove if you make a mistake. Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue that is CRAZY strong...if you just need to reglue stubborn corers down, use a DOT - like 1/4 the size of a dime.
What does one do if tiles have lifted in areas?
How do you apply the loctite all purpose adhesive caulk to an entire self adhesive tile? Do you cover both the floor and the adhesive side of the tile? Or just the floor? Do you use a serrated trowel or just something flat like a putty knife? How long should you wait for the caulk to set before placing the tile down? Thanks
The best way would be to use a notched trowel. Just apply a little bit to the back of the tile. Start near the middle and pull it out toward the edges and corners. I a little goes a long way.
@@mazerwholesale Do I have to wait a certain amount of time before placing the tile down. Some adhesives say to wait 5 minutes to allow the adhesive to form legs.
@@brendaboyce9967 I would advise you to follow the directions on the packaging of the adhesive.
Thank you for your video. I want to lay self adhesive vinyl tiles to patch an area of an old already tiled floor. There are some uneven dusty patches of about 3-4 inches here and there. I think the floor is made of screed. Is there something I can put into these spots before laying the tiles?
There's a product called floor patch (or floor leveler). It's available in every hardware store. It's made to fill cracks, holes, and voids to make your subfloor level prior to installing a new floor. It comes in powdered form or pre-mixed to use right out of the can. It's easy.
Thanks.
I used peel and stick vinyl in my lanai area. Even though it was not recommended I liked the pattern and it covered rough concrete space so my kid can play. I used a latex primer on the concrete surface before I stuck the vinyl. However because of cold weather, I notice the edges lifting off in some areas. Read that the vinyl shrinks in cold weather and expands in warm weather. What can I apply on the edges and between so it expands and contracts according to weather? I have some pics that I can share for better reference. Pl suggest.
Sorry for the late reply. In my experience, when the tiles are installed in moderate temperatures, the temperature changes don't affect the tile later. This is my experience using and selling the tile for 20 years.
It's been 3yrs I see and still no answer on the name of the tape.
Even after all the bad reviews on wall pops my mother still brought them for me. I laid 9 boxes on my kitchen floor the next day I noticed the edges on most of them lifted. I was told by someone to use gorilla spray adhesive it looked like it was working but slowly the edges lifted again. Help I don't know what to do.
I' sorry to know about your troubles with your tile. I don't know anything about that brand but here's something to try: Go get some flooring adhesive in a can. Warm up the tiles with a hair dryer and peel back on the corner(s) sticking up. Peel back far enough to smear some adhesive on the floor and then press the tile down again. Don't use too much adhesive. If you use too much, it won't dry. No guarantees, but give it a try. Some people I know have used Liquid Nail or Locktite All Purpose Adhesive. Please let me know how it works out for you!
I've used the double sided tape before and removal when redecorating was not bad. How hard is the loctite adhesive to remove ? Thanks
I have personally never used it but many of my customers have and they report that Loctite works great. However, I have not feedback about removal. I imagine it will be much more difficult than 2-sided tape.
Probably easy with a heat gun
any advise for Luxary Vinyl Tile (LVT) , which only needs to stick to next row, ...when they begin to unstick from one another? thx
Would these work for extreme temperatures? We’re struggling with our peel and stick planks coming up/off in our popup camper
In our experience and selling to 1000's of customers, the tile should not be installed in extreme temperature conditions. However, once the adhesive cures (at least a week), temperature extremes don't seem to affect it. I would say, avoid traffic on the tile for as long as you can if your temperatures are hot or cold within a few weeks of installation.
@@mazerwholesale Thanks for that tip. It was very helpful!
Hi, I just put my peel and stick down...but when I walk on it it crackles...must I pull the tiles up? If so do I the tape or caulk?
First I suggest you try warming the tile with a hair dryer. This will reactivate the glue. Warm each tile well individually and then run your hands on them with pressure as you probably did during installation. Let it be overnight and see how that works. If it doesn't work, try one of the adhesives I recommended in the video.
Will this work on rentals? If so, do you have any recommendations on how to remove the sticky remainder when moving out?
If this isn’t good for rentals, do you have a product that you would recommend?
I have found that Goo Gone is the best and safest product to dissolve glue residue. You can find it at all the big hardware stores and automotive stores. NOT Goof-Off....Goo-Gone.
Very well done, I'm sure u have helped many more ppl than u know. I didn't know about either 1, so ty.
Thanks. I have base flooring that after the old tile was removed, I cleaned with a primer sold at HD by floor tile dept.Thanks a bunch! Was pretty labor intensive but Loctite you recommended here did the trick. I’ll never use primer again!
Just go to Lowes.com or homedepot.com and type FLOOR TAPE into the search right at the top of their website and you will see a selection of product. BUT THEN, call your local hardware store and see if they carry any of the products because it's better to support your local, independently-owned merchant.
Thanks for the great support great work support I love 😍👍
mazerwholesale thanks- nearest Lowes is over 130miles one way, and if they had the tape, they couldnt find it. I wound up getting adhesive 4 the gun and will need to go one tile at a time. I will never use primer again. (Backfired on me)ʻ
We just filled in grout of our ceramic tile floor, waited a few days and cleaned the floors well with Krud Kutter. The peel and stick tiles are not sticking at all. Should we apply a separate glue to the backs of them, or just use the recommended tape? It’s a very tiny laundry room pass thru...
Many of our customers have reported that Liquid Nail works well on the vinyl Peel & Stick.
Hey, we are putting down peel and stick to our floors in the living room … we removed the old flooring and applying the new floor to the concrete we are using the Henry primer and made sure to clean the floors really well. We did one section the other night and woke up the next morning to the whole section buckling in the middle. We don’t know what to do from here. Home Depot said it could be a bad primer , it could be moisture in the concrete which there shouldn’t be any since we had carpet under the old flooring anyway… we are frustrated and just don’t know where to go from here. She told me to try putting one piece down without using the primer to see if it may be the primer that’s bad … what do you think??
Over the years, we have found that the Henry's Bond Enhancer (Primer) works SOMETIMES. We learned of it from a customer who raved about it. I have never needed it on ANY of my installations in my home, garage, or in areas we tiled in our warehouse. Some surfaces, whether concrete or wood simply won't cooperate with the tile. It's a mystery. However, I recently discovered Gorilla Glue Super Glue is incredible. It works and it's instant...like SECONDS. I just purched a bottle of the regular All-Purpose Gorilla Glue to try it out. (It's the brown liquid-looks like maple syrup.) I will go try it in one spot right now...be right back!
I just tried the brown glue and it's not good for sticking the tile down. The Gorilla Super Glue works great. I put a dot in each corner and a dot in between on each side. BINGO. It works great. The little bottle is less than an ounce and it costs around $6. Not cheap, but it works. www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-0-71-oz-Super-Glue-78056/100661959
@@mazerwholesale Did you use the GEL formulation, or the non-gel Super Glue? I have some old 12x12 tiles that have loosened up, and no longer sticking, and some corners curling up.
thanks a ton for this video
I was thinking of putting peel and stick floor tile over my bar mirror glass. do you think that would work? and would I need extra adhesive?
The adhesive works best on a semi-pourus surface like wood or concrete. Not sure how it will behave on glass. If you're thinking of using on a vertical surface, this is definitely not a good choice.
is transfer tape sticky on both sides?....if not i'm guessing it just provides a clean oil free surface for tiles to stick to (is this correct?)
Yes. It's sticky on both sides. Very strong.
What is the brand of sticky tape? I do not see this on Lowe’s website
I don't remember but I was there recently and they had it in the store I was in. They probably have it at Home Depot too. It's right next to the flooring adhesives in the cans and buckets
Do you think I can remove my peel and stick backsplash with a blowdryer and then reapply with the super sticky tape underneath, so that it’s super straight and a permanent solution ?
will it stick to already existing soild sheet of linoleum????????????????????? linoleum has a tiny bit of a textured look like a terrible paint job orange peel texture. its not 100 smooth but may be beter than my subfloor
I'm sorry for the delayed response. Although the tile factory doesn't recommend it, I know MANY of our customers have installthe our tile over existing vinyl floors like yours. I also installed tile over the existing tile I installed in my garage. Here's the video ua-cam.com/video/NUZ2oPG25Gg/v-deo.html
I have a small area near my grout line at the tub that I had to puddy with wood buddy which is about 5 x2 long and I'm concerned my sticky tiles will not stick to the wood puddy which says plastic/wood on tube. The tile will be right up against the tub and the side of tile could easily come up but wondering it the calking might hold it down as glue.
It'll probably stick to the plastic wood but it wouldn't hurt to get a tube of Loctite All Purpose Adhesive and squeeze a bead of it onto the tile.
After using TEC brand ready-to-use floor patch, we used TEC brand multi- purpose-primer. The floor feels rough. Is this right?
i really don't know. Not familiar with that product. Try out a couple of tiles and see how it goes.
Would you recommend using extra adhesive if you put peel & stick tile on the wall ?
You MUST use extra adhesive to stick this floor tile to the wall, otherwise, it won't stick. The adhesive on the tile is really good but it doesn't work well in the vertical position. Customers tell me they use Liquid Nail. I have never used it on the wall so I can't give advice from experience.
Thanks I figured that, Im putting it on one of my basement exterior backed walls. Doing research and purchasing material now just waiting for some warm weather on long island. Thanks again
I don't have stubborn spots, I have a whole stubborn floor in the bathroom. It's been several hours and they peel with ease.
Jeremy, a few questions: 1) What brand of tile are you using? 2) Is it Peel & Stick? 3) Are you installing the tile on top of old tile? Fresh subfloor (Luan/Plywood)?
I realize this was a while ago, so I don't expect a response, but my tile isn't sticking evenly because of the uneven surface I have. Would you recommend peeling the tiles back up to add the double-sided tape? The tile is just crackling when I walk over it, as if it isn't sticking evenly. I used a hardboard underlayer rolled with mold-resistant latex primer. I plan to caulk the small cracks in between, hoping that improves the seal and softens the edges. Any advice to the contrary?
I think your idea is right on. If you've got a lot of tiles to work on, the tape will probably be rather expensive. You may want to use Loctite All Purpose Adhesive or Liquid Nail which many of our customers have used successfully.
We purchased some grout-less, mother of pearl tiles that I thought were the "peel and stick" variety. Bought them online and didn't want to go through the hassle of sending them back to exchange for the peel and stick ones. We planned to use them in a RV remodel as a kitchen backsplash. I don't think thinset would hold up long in RV and was wondering if this double-sided tape could be used to hold the tiles in place. They are quite thin and lightweight. Someone suggested spray adhesive, but after viewing your video, the tape appears to be something similar to peel and stick adhesive. My only concern is the longevity of a vertical installation.
I think it'll work but I'm afraid I can't answer your question with certainty. It's going to cost you about $9.00 to find out...you're just going to have to test it.
Does anyone ever say that you look like Kurt Warner NFL Quarterback? It's crazy, I thought for a second that you were him!
I don't remember...maybe once. I'll take that as a compliment either way, so thanks! And thanks for watching the video.
Good videos by the way, thanks for the great info.
mazerwholesale hello sir, ty for your videos,,,very much helpful, however me snd my hubby are having a friend install our Armstrong adhesive vinly tiles,,,he wants us to get pressure sensitive glue, have you heard of this before and should i let him use the glue?
If he's the expert, he should go and buy the glue. How are YOU to know which glue to buy? There are all kinds of glue. If the glue on the back of the tile weren't any good, Armstrong wouldn't be around for all these years.
What would you [anyone] suggest for an additional adhesive when the peel & stick tile has lost some of its adhesive strength ?....I have boxes of peel & stick but it's at least 15 years old and has been stored in areas where temperatures get "Single digit" cold. They still have adhesion but I recently put down several squares to see if they were worth keeping. The tile's adhesive textures like new tile, But once installed, The contact only grabs initially then after about 5 minutes, It gives a slight "Pucker-up" effect close to the edges as it loses its grip....LIQUID NAILS IS NOT THE ANSWER !!!!....To get favorable results, You need the corners and edges to adhere but liquid nails (or similar 10oz chalk-type tubes) keeps trying to goosh out at the parting lines and it either "Skin" or turns brittle if you let it "Tack-Dry" before installing the tile....
Many customers of ours have said the Liquid Nail works great. I've never used it. However, if you put any glue, it'll ooze out a bit. You just need to wipe away the excess. Also, just last night I found the Locktite brand makes a spray adhesive. I saw it in Dollar General for $8.00 (pretty large can). That could be a consideration. However, I would prefer you go to an independently-owned hardware store. I avoid the chain stores whenever possible. Keep it local!!! Good luck and thank you for your comment.
You need to either use 3M spray glue or some contact cement with a roller.
Both of them you cover each surface, let it dry, then stick them together. No oozing. You only have one shot to get it aligned because once the surfaces touch you're done.
Locktite all purpose was what I tried first , crazy bit is the locktite seems to not adhere to the glue that's already on the peel n stick tile , it's literally drying underneath then I can easily pull the tile off the wall again ,,,, only thing I can try now is taking some sort of filler putty to try and get the surface as smooth as possible, because these things are refusing to stay on the wall
For the wall, I heard liquid nail works well.
Had the same problem with a wall, and liquid nails did the trick!
It was a bad idea to put my peel and stick over my concrete flooring...the tiles won't stay down. Will try this.
We use peel & stick on concrete all the time. Some customers do report problems. There could be other variables such as temperature, surface preparation, highly repellant concrete sealer, or a bad batch of peel & stick. I have something you may want to try and I can send it to you to test. Call me at 1-800-343-0780
Thanks for the recommendation! Is there a special technique for applying the all purpose glue? Should you put it down and let it get tacky before laying your tile back down or will it work fine to spread the glue and immediately replace the tile?
I have never had the need to use extra adhesive in any of my installations so I can't speak from experience. 1. I think you should read the directions on the product because it may have the exact answer for you. If not, I would say to use a very small amount about 3/4" from each corner (like the size of a dime) and maybe the same amount in the middle of the tile. The adhesive (on OUR tile) is very strong and doesn't really need any help. Trouble spots usually occur on a corner here and there.
thats what i was wondering too . i just need a small tube of that and would make it easier to just apply it to the edges of mine that are coming up ..
Sorry those tips didn't help me at all. The tile is already down so how am I supposed to use that tape? It's just the very edge lifting not the whole tile. Yeah I see that tube adhesive being a huge mess.
Here's what you do: Get a hair dryer and warm up the tiles you want to stick down with the tape. The tile will peel back easily when warmed. Then you can apply the tape and press the tile down again. I recommend you warm up the tile again when you press the tile down again and apply a weight like a book or a chair leg. You don;t have to apply too much weight. Just enough to keep in in place for 20 minutes or so.
Holyshit this is Christian Bale, trailer for his new film “The Contractor II”
I'm about to put peel and stick vinyl planks in my little 22 ft rv. I've watched a lot people on youtube do this. Someone mentioned maybe 2 coats of the self-stick tile primer. I know you said you never have used it but considering the temperature fluctuation in an RV just seems to me like it might be a good idea. What do you think? I used the Henry's patch and level and put one coat of primer so far.
I have had customers tell me it worked great for them and also had customers who said it didn't help at all. I have never used it on any of my installations...never needed it. I'm sorry I can't respond with a certain answer.
What cleans paint n other messes of these types of floors.. scrubed n mopped now looks foggy from paint like it just smeared
That's going to be a challenge. Paint is made NOT to come off easily. Go to a real PAINT STORE and ask for some advice. That's the best I can tell you.
i put my stick tiles down about 4 years ago but now i notice some are lifting on the edges so not sure if i should use the glue or the tape .. the glue looks easier to just put in and under the edges , its the kitchen floor , this gives me some idea on what to use though . Thanks for sharing ~
Thank you for your question. I'm curious as to what brand of tile you used. If you remember, please let me know. As for the adhesive, Locktite All-Purpose Adhesive is good and I've had customers who told me Liquid Nail works well. You may also want to consider looking at Henry's line of flooring adhesives: www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=420
I got them at lowes not very expensive but still nice they were like 35c each half price sale ... ya maybe liquid nails.. i just tried a hairdryer thought it would help make the edges more sticky . but that didnt work to well ..
@@joedevitto6113 See my comment above about superglue. It's always worked for me.
Ive tried that but it seems to dry up after a while. i need a rubber type of glue im thinking
Loctite stuck to the floor but not the tile!!
Definitely buying the super sticky tape from Lowe’s right now
M. Ali what’s it called ?
It's called double faced tape....
Hey,
Wife just picked up a ton of peel and stick planks for .24 cent a square foot. Well it's OSB under the carpet. She bought 1000 square feet. Is there anyway this can still be done using the OSB? Thanks.
It's my understanding that OBS doesn't like the adhesive on self-stick tile. I suggest you lay ONE piece and see how it behaves overnight or over a couple days. If not good, then try adding adhesive or continue your research. That's the best I can tell you. You sure got a good deal on the material!
@@mazerwholesale Any suggestions for sealing the floor before laying it down.
Sealer is actually the enemy. That's what prevents liquids and chemicals from penetrating into the surface. The glue IS a liquid and a chemical and in order to create a bond, it must seep in to a certain extent. That's why I think sealer is a bad move. However, there's a product called Henry's Bond Enhancer. It's a sealer but it's made to bond well with self-stick flooring. You can Google it and read the specs.
Ok I will check into it. Thanks for responding back, and so quickly.
If you go to Lowe's and ask for transfer tape, they will be stymied. It's called Double Sided seam tape. Hate it when these guys who do videos speak in their industry vernacular rather than actual product names.
This guy sounds like Christian Bale straight up
I'm not sure, but I'll take that as a compliment. Should I?
I would
@@frankcalandrino2373 well then I thank you for the compliment and thank you for watching my video. I hope it helped.
Listen to this at 1.75 speed so you don't want to drive yourself off a xl7ff
Can anybody tell me how to do floor with self-stick tiles on the concrete floor in a basement bathroom in cold weather?
I put new self-stick tiles in basement bathroom on concret floor. Next day I saw some of joint is not stay stick on the floor.
Adhesive does NOT like to be applied to a cold surface. However, if you already have the tile down and you want to address some edges or corners which are coming up, try Locktite All-Purpose Adhesive.
Use a heat gun.. maybe even a hair dryer if you don't have that. Heat the floor to where it is not cold.. not to where it is warm per se, just not cold. Then heat the tile a bit to where it is somewhat warm - helps the glue get even more sticky - then stick the tile down.
This is a good a good idea and easy . i will try this hair dryer , thanks
I have been using a small space heater and I use it to warm up the floor and a tile at the same time. It's the floor tile it gets too hot the adhesive comes off. So what I do is wait until the tile gets slightly softened and then I lay it down right away and roll it down with a hard roller
Let me say something , i' installed quick ''laminate in all my 3 room and hallway , no problem with the click , I wanted to try one room in the lower floor with this vinyl stick '' 3 boxes of style collection no box code 737983 blue /white box , price per box $53 dollars , this product does not stick to my clean new sub wood floor , I shouldn't have to buy any clue or primer , will return this crap back to Lowes .
Seldom my ass.
Removed clear coat from vinyl floor. Sanded it as well to rough it up. Washed, then self dry and tack cloth. Fucking corners lift. They are a joke. Say you can't glue them. BS. Use vinyl glue and they stick.
I feel for you 3 yrs after you and I am in the same boat. Tried using Henry glue, not working that great only on the tiles that hardly have glue. I had stick tiles that were awesome, not the Pops Cameron looks like marble, grey and white, I order from 2 different sources and they are not good, some stick, some don't and the edges keep lifting. So Sorry I ever decided to do my kitchen with these tiles. I had used the Pops Emilia and they were perfect. Now I am looking at a floor half done and I am exhausted 240 tiles yikes!
What tiles do I put full glue on, what glue? I will check out the tape, use the blow dryer and 2 faced tape and someone said gorilla super glue. ugh!! Customer service they don't care. All I can say is this Cameron stick tiles don't stick. Thanks I had to vent.
Did we really need 6 minutes on a few products? The guy doesn't even list the products. Stop saying "super"---super this, super that.
What about for keeping wall backsplash from peeling back up?
The Loctite is probably good for that too, but I have not personal experience with the backsplash.