Ray our oldest son has a 1978 Ford E150 van that he got for his labor by doing a porch rebuild. The motor isn’t locked up after sitting ten years. He dropped the tank & cleaned the tank with parts cleaner, put in new fuel pump, etc. fresh gas primed the carburetor & finally got it running. So keep you & us having a great day,
I had a 1993 E150 with the 300 straight 6 and it ran like a top but the body and frame rusted away. A used car dealer took the engine out and put it in another van that had a blown up V6 in it. My vav had just under 600K miles on it and it didn't leak any oil or water. That straight 6's had huge radiators and an 11-quart oil pan.
Knocking on the door of half a milion subscribers, happier Ray with WU support and more family interaction, great inspirational posts on saving some important historic vehicles (particularly that lovely old girl 95 4.0 Wrangler). Living your very best life Sir and absolutely deserved.
Many moons ago I was out in the fron of the house and saw an Escort come around the curve and lose control spinning around and hitting an electric pole backward. He cranked and cranked but would not start. I went out to help and smeled what a driver should not smell like. Understandable why he was trying so hard to get away. He got a proper ride and the car got a tow. That inetrtia switch kept him parked against the pole.
So many folks don't even know about them. I saved my mom a tow bill by telling her about it, and looking up where it was on her 96 F-150 pickup (someone had backed into it while she was at work). I learned about them from my job as a cab driver. Fords all the way until they aged out. Then the boss started buying Camrys.
My father was a mechanic and he had a saying. A truck that won't start isn't worth much. But a truck that starts is valuable, because it can be used to make money for the owner.
Worked on a 5.8 a while back that acted the same way. The roll pin that holds the distributor gear on was sheared. It had been to three differnt shops before it came to me. They parts cannoned it over a 10 cent roll pin.
the gear was jammed against the sheared roll pin so the oil pump was turning but the truck was out of time. I get what your saying though. If the gear would of free spun there would be no oil pressure.
@@damonzilliox2751 Gotcha. It's amazing the way mechanical things can fail. I was driving a 65 Dodge van in an orange grove, backed up, and a tree limb I didn't see went under the back tire , kicked up towards the engine, hit the oil filter, bent it into the distributor, (slant six) broke the distributor cap. A piece of the cap fell down in the distributor which jammed it up and broke the distributor drive gear. (Which to my surprise was nylon).
Seeing that fuel line removal tool took me back to the early 90s, I had to do a valve job on my POS 87 Aerostar with the 3.0. The day that hideous van drove away for good was a very happy day indeed.
I am so excited!!!! We have a 1995 E-150 with 350,000 Miles. Bought it about 9 years ago at 125,000 Miles. Driven it all across N. America exhaust, exhaust manifolds, gas tank, fuel pump. Still love it as a camper planning Arizona again soon. Love this one!!!!
Nice e150 econoline van 4.9 engine e4od transmission is what I have and I made many trips from south eastern Oklahoma to Phoenix,AZ got the 30feul tank.1fill gets me 1150 miles
Bellas Vistas, before you head this way to Arizona make dang sure the cooling system is top-notch or it will fail at the weakest point in this heat and it will always be at least 50 miles from anything but lizards and pissed-off snakes. LMAO
@@stephenbullock1443, You bet ya buddy 122 in the shade. Arizona is no joke, retired Air Force Sargent here, been here since 1982, I went from being stationed in Fairbanks Alaska at -73 below zero to Tucson AZ. at 110 above, took me almost 2 years to get used to the heat. lol
I grew up with family work vans. First, 92 Ford e150 then 97 e150. Had this problem before on the 97 I believe. The truck would shut off whenever it went from moving to stopped, like at a red light. Or when switching from drive to reverse. When your truck here first killed you mentioned you were gonna power brake the truck into the shop. That's when it struck me. We brought it to a local mechanic and he made it worse. A different mechanic fixed it but I've forgotten what the issue and fix was. Both trucks had vacuum issues and air vent doors were screwy. You already have a vid fixing a van's vacuum lines. This is an interesting series because it hits close to home 😂 Finally I get to see what the heck the problem was. Our van always restarted after killing at the red light, or I would power brake or power-shift if I was in a situation where I couldn't risk the truck dying. Not a fix by any means but we ran it that way for months before it finally did what this van is doing. 🤔
Fuel pump could be fine, it's just how the system is that causes the air and slow output as it requires the return line to be hooked up. What I would do is check spark plugs as the might be junk and check the fuel pressure regulator. Since the truck started it's likely not a distributor problem well until you touched it and it's out of time now, so check the timing again, set it back to 10 BTDC with the spout plug unhooked. I'm sure you know this already though. I own my fare share of 5.0 in F-Series and pretty much know them in the back of my head.
@@forgetfulme1719 nah, that terrible stuff that came out is not gas anymore, if it gets even close to any good vehicle, it will be throwing codes all over the place and have the dash working like a Christmas tree, that is not something you put back in any car, or any engine at that
@@Qwertyuiop-wg5xu Yup, it's "varnished". That condition is why we either drain the gas out of engines that will be stored for months, like the lawn mower, or use a fuel stabilizer. I personally drain them, then start them to get all the gas out. I do it to my snow blower in the spring, and the mower in the fall. The 2-strokes are always stored dry, and get fresh gas mix when I need them. I also only refill gas cans 2 gallons at a time. That way my implements always have fresh gas. If I have left over gas in the can, I dump it into my car. Gas stays in the cans at most 2 weeks. My Grandfather was crazy about fresh gas... It leaked onto me....
Yeah my 95 Bronco had a 5.8 now its a 427sbf....I've replaced the battery cables, starter cables. starter, starter solenoid and battery. It's cranks slowly but once started it runs like a scalded dog...I've had this thing almost since it was new....good job Ray on keeping hope alive..I do not like those fuel line spring connections....I've used metal fuel line tools and plastic but damn
You might need to take a play out of Wes's book and get yourself a crappy old ATV (or even a garden tractor) to tow things that won't run into the bay. It really helps reduce the "I'm alone today" aspect when you're stuck with something that won't run.
Give a young guy a distributor and he looses his mind. 🤣 Yes absolutely cranking that distributor around and not actually setting it means the timing could be anything. Also lack of fuel, super lean can cause backfire through the intake. That being said you are doing it!! The more you do the more you know. I always enjoy your videos ur killing it.
A friend was working on a riding mower trying to get it started, no go, he called me over to help carb was plugged from sitting & he was spraying brake cleaner trying to get it to fire before clean up, good spark/compression but no light, I finally looked closely at the can of brake cleaner he was using, it said NON FLAMABLE, got a diffrent can it lit right up.
There is a ecm code plug, you can also jump it the run the fuel pump the same way that you did the inertia switch, I use a paper clip, it works good. I would also try running codes in it while I was there. The OBD1 system Ford used in these is almost as good as OBD2. If you can get it running, you can run an engine cylinder Ballance test and all sorts of things, just with a paperclip.
Water in gas tank. Bad gas, weak pump Cloged filter bad plugs. Vacume leak This could make for a good game show Spin and pick the problem, I'll take blowen head gasket for 350 ray. Scanner white flips the letters. B _0___ c____k __a__. Care to solve the puzzle? Can I buy a tune up for 50.
OBD1 Has an ignition firing control module on the firewall about the size of a domino next to the mode plug...A good place to start if it has intermittent spark...Maybe bad fuel pump motor impeller Yeah, I'm old school...😎😎😎
Nice seeing parts I recognize again, distributor, and on my Michigan melded 96 F250 those same style fuel lines except not in as good of condition. My friend yelling at me to put the torch down.... 10 minutes per fuel line!
I've always loved the old pre-EFI Ford engines. I grew up around them and love working on them because they're so simple and keep on running. I prefer Cleveland to Windsor, but apparently that puts me in a minority. 302 and 351 are my slow jam.
Man I have never been so anxious for a next episode of Rainman Rays! He could have put the General Hospital drama sound they play right before commercials at the end there and it would have been perfect to me. “Faux” Network might not have been so pleased though 😂
A certain ford in-tank fuel pump in this era featured a rubber hose that would rot out and intermittently deliver use able fuel (35 + psi) to the injectors. Start when cold but quit after few minutes of operation and refuse to run until cold again. FYI
@@forgetfulme1719 The one i encountered had melted to a puddle of black tar in the bottom of the fuel tank after failing to start for the last time, which is why i always clean the fuel tank following a pump change.
@@forgetfulme1719 Just to be clear, i have been referring to the 8 inches of hose provided by the pump manufacturer to connect the internal pump to the pump mounting flange. This was provided by Ford during manufacture.
Hmmm I missed you testing coil for constant spark, injector pulse not dropping out, 35psi minimum fuel pressure, ignite fuel sample to see how it burns, pull 1 or 2 plugs they could be fouled....
Just as a note, on my 1996 F250 Truck I had a similar issue and when I pulled the plugs I was surprised it had started at all. Replaced the plugs and she fired right up. That lead me to my next problem of as soon as I put it in reverse it dies. Put it in drive and it will stumble but you can coax it to keep running. If you slam it into reverse or drive she will stay running and she will move. Next step is the idle air control valve.
yeah, very low fuel in tank and surely needs full tune up for starters(the crust and rust in dist. says it all to me). then move on to all the other issues it has, probably dirty TBI & IAC, map sensor from back firing(lol), pcv valve, fuel regulator, ignition module/wiring, vac. hoses, really long list of common things on them old fturds.
Ray, you just made my day. GO Ford GO!!!! You’re going to swear, sweat and fight. The Ford looks like a tough one too. Drama right from the start. I know you’ll prevail but that is going to be a fight.
@@forgetfulme1719 exactly, I always used to work on Fords at our shop because the owners swore by and occasionally at them. Now that I’m the one armed exmechanic I only work on my personal vehicles. They’re all GMC, so I miss swearing and sweating over the Fords.
It's a ford I bought a Ford E150 van it kept breaking down for about 2 months had to replace the fuel pump driver, fuel pump and the fuel tank was rusted to he'll inside .Had to replace the fuel filter about 4 times. Intake manifold, Injectors. And lots more on the list.
I have had similar before, My car ran fine until i got to just under half a tank then I got starting & running problems, It turned out to be the tank pump flexible plastic pipe had split, when i had over half a tank the split was submerged & it ran fine which gave me a clue what the issue was.
New-ish distributor, backfiring, possible burnt valves. I'd check the coil, then the firing order and make sure the plugs are on the correct distributor posts.
Sadly, I also work on my own. I pull disabled vehicles into my workshop. Depending on what else is there, I may get a tow vehicle right into the shed, otherwise I tow it close then I use a 2 tonne chain block attached to one of the vehicles in there already or the building frame structure and winch a dead car into the shop with the chain block. Many of the vehicles I get have transmission failure, so I do this often.
I've had lots of old ford's. Thet commonly had fuel level problems which varied to permanently full, gmhalf a tank to working fine from full to a g Half tank. Made it easier to keep a full tank in the Iowa winter.
fuel pressure regulators were notorious for going bad on those 351's and the allen head bolts were bad for stripping out. not the threads but the bolt head itself.
Yep, I had one go out on a 94 Bronco. 351 W @ 60000 miles out on the highway. ☹ It would run then stall out. Then run then stall out. drove it like this for several miles.
Continuous air bubbles in the fuel stream is a key indicator that should be addressed first. Perhaps a cracked fuel suction line or connection in the tank?
Paused at 9:00 my guess is the line and rail had preserved the quality of fuel, the stuff in the tank had turned to junk, and the brief start it had, used up the 'good' fuel in the line. The junk reached the engine, game over.
That would be my initial guess. I live in the winter wonderland, people have learned not to destroy their motorcycles and other summer only equipment with old fuel. Edit: "Smells like turpentine" was the primary clue.
Hi, I came across this channels because I had! fault with the abs brakes on my car Volswagen Bora 1999 and damn the fault to see how you searched for it! You have the best and most understandable site! Etc. Freddy Kling From Norway
Being a professional auto technician for 42 years just a couple of quick suggestions that might make your life easier. If you have a good fuel pressure test set up, hook it up to the test port on the fuel rail or splice it into the fuel pressure line. You can not only take a direct reading of fuel pressure but push the bleed button and get a sample of the fuel and it’s volume over time. If it’s not getting fuel or the injectors are not firing I use a large propane tank with a high flow valve plugged into a large intake vacuum source. If it runs just drive it inside. Just a side note, if there is no pickup in the distributor turning it only changes the relationship between the rotor and the plug wire not the ignition timing.😊😊
To soldier thru and fix it is what you do. But for me, If there was a high bluff overlooking a bottomless pit near by, I would consider pushing that van over the edge of said bluff. You da man!
@@debrastarke3996 yeah. Too bad that’s never in the vehicle when it comes in. Working on RVs. We don’t do chassis work. But we do chassis work. Between chassis and house fuses not being labeled and what you would think is chassis and what is house that is the other depending on RV manufacturer. Typically I’m looking for a radio fuse. Lots of inline fuses used somewhere under the dash as the dash stereo will tie into the entertainment system of the RV (house part) and draw lots more amps than a typical dash stereo. So am I looking for an ignition signal wire or am I looking for the stereo wire. Multiple chassis fuse panels on these usually ford body RVs both class C and class A and then the house fuse panel. Would love to pop a fuse panel cover off and not have to backprobe to check continuity especially the 2 fuse panels on driver side under the dash that you have to take the driver seat out to access and possibly the speaker the RV manufacturer put on the wall in front of the fuse panel and can’t open the panel door all the way Because you don’t really know where they have grabbed power for anything on the dash but if there was a fuse marked stereo you could start there. Then finally find the fuse panel hidden behind the air filter box you have to take the air filter box out to access is where the fuse you were looking for was hidden. But you have found on other panels before. All fuse panels should be labeled on the panel
i would just try running it from a can of fuel to see if it is an issue from the tank or in the engine. It sounds like it may be both. The fuel coming from the engine is definately pointing to something leaking on the engine.
@@willydavid last thing I want is Ray to get hurt. My van sat at another garage for 4 to 5 months. I’m extremely grateful for Tays services. He is an awesome mechanic. I use the van for my flooring business. Need it for 6 more months til I pay of transit then I’m buying another transit 250.
Ray according to what I found out here in Texas consumers they are looking for these types of work vans apparently Ford makes the best one on the market but what I found out is that Ford don’t make these vans anymore that’s why they are very very hot commodity right now you could almost get what you’re asking for it. So if the guy wants to sell it just let him know that Ford don’t make them anymore and so far what I have found out is that the construction people love these vans because the durability and the big engine and transmission these vans I’ve seen them go up to 700,000 miles without replacing the engine or transmission or differential that’s how durable they are. ✝️✝️✝️🇺🇸
If the tank is dry, the pump is dead. The fuel serves as a lubricant for the rotor and veins. With an in the tank pump, labor will be an issue. The cap and wires look new. If a tune up was done, question locations. Firing order may be off. The inertia switch was designed to shut off fuel supply in any impact over 5 mph.
Hey Ray, love you vids. I watch it every day now! Like whoa! And I love the 'wife unit' and her adventures in learning for her own car...good for her!!! She did that oil change very very well...! More confident, and she will learn a lot. Very smart lady!:) You are a great team!
An antique van( older than 25 years) resurrection video. Will it run? Smart to eliminate the bad fuel possibility. Gas should not smell like turp. Why do I feel like I'm watching a neighbor on a Saturday, work on his old truck? After all this we need closure on the problem. Pressure regulator is probably bad or it's a weak fuel pump. Think the first is most likely. Get it running again Ray , it will last nearly forever. See ya in part 2.
The will it run videos by other guys usually hook up a small fuel tank/gas can with it's own fuel pump to get it going before they start messing with the vehicle's fuel tank or pump. It's a quick way to eliminate it from the mix.
@@forgetfulme1719 I have absolutly no brand loyalty. So it's not a ford thing. But spend 2,000 get 100,000 miles. I'm in. Turning the distributer and no fire. That's the chain. Cap rotor plugs and wires. Maybe a module on the distributor. That's all worth it. Changing the pump and filter. That's worth it. Bad fuel will clog the pump and filter. Ans my 1988 f250 still runs well. Older vehicles help keep cost of the new plastic ones down. Just so you know. My 1994 Nissan sentra was headed for the scrap pile when I got it for 200 tuned it up fixed a few hoses and it's back on the road. Don't call it junk. To someone it's their pride and joy. Now the 6.0 power stroke is what international did to the buyers. Power stroked them.
@@mrheart4242 I'm with you man. The newest thing I have in my "Fleet" is a 2002 and I'm not to sure about it. I'd much rather "waste" a couple of grand getting the old POS going that buy the newer plastic planned obsolescence machines that they have gone back to.
I had to twist the distributor on an old Ford when it just kept dying at stop and had no power. After suspecting a timing issue, I got out of the car when it died again, twisted the distributor (it hadn't occurred to me that it shouldn't be loose at the time) and the car ran as good as could be expected for the rest of its life. Always a good thing to check. A much newer Ford kept blowing it's coil pack as it would run so rough that I had to change the pack 4 times.
Ray our oldest son has a 1978 Ford E150 van that he got for his labor by doing a porch rebuild. The motor isn’t locked up after sitting ten years. He dropped the tank & cleaned the tank with parts cleaner, put in new fuel pump, etc. fresh gas primed the carburetor & finally got it running. So keep you & us having a great day,
👍
A ‘78 is even better, much simpler that the fuel injected ones - those vans were amazing
On these old fords the fuel pressure regulator is known to leak into vacuum line, always pull vacuum line and check
I had a 1993 E150 with the 300 straight 6 and it ran like a top but the body and frame rusted away. A used car dealer took the engine out and put it in another van that had a blown up V6 in it. My vav had just under 600K miles on it and it didn't leak any oil or water. That straight 6's had huge radiators and an 11-quart oil pan.
best win-win.
Knocking on the door of half a milion subscribers, happier Ray with WU support and more family interaction, great inspirational posts on saving some important historic vehicles (particularly that lovely old girl 95 4.0 Wrangler). Living your very best life Sir and absolutely deserved.
The starter runs great.
not anymore after the long cranks.
@@roadstonowhere1964 since labor rate low there, somewhere u have to build up, but will be confirmed with load test.
I took one of the Ford Reset switch apart once, it's a ball bearing sitting in a cone with a spring. Thanks for the vid ray.
Many moons ago I was out in the fron of the house and saw an Escort come around the curve and lose control spinning around and hitting an electric pole backward. He cranked and cranked but would not start. I went out to help and smeled what a driver should not smell like. Understandable why he was trying so hard to get away. He got a proper ride and the car got a tow. That inetrtia switch kept him parked against the pole.
So many folks don't even know about them. I saved my mom a tow bill by telling her about it, and looking up where it was on her 96 F-150 pickup (someone had backed into it while she was at work). I learned about them from my job as a cab driver. Fords all the way until they aged out. Then the boss started buying Camrys.
My father was a mechanic and he had a saying. A truck that won't start isn't worth much. But a truck that starts is valuable, because it can be used to make money for the owner.
Just the tip, that’s what she said
Did not get it.sicko
Didn’t know you had so many children that follow your channel.
All these kids proud of their first grade and second grade mentality!🤣
😂 you tell them
Worked on a 5.8 a while back that acted the same way. The roll pin that holds the distributor gear on was sheared. It had been to three differnt shops before it came to me. They parts cannoned it over a 10 cent roll pin.
always the cheapest part that gets u, desperately seeking best mechanic like him.
That same gear turns the oil pump. This van had oil pressure.
the gear was jammed against the sheared roll pin so the oil pump was turning but the truck was out of time. I get what your saying though. If the gear would of free spun there would be no oil pressure.
@@damonzilliox2751 Gotcha. It's amazing the way mechanical things can fail. I was driving a 65 Dodge van in an orange grove, backed up, and a tree limb I didn't see went under the back tire , kicked up towards the engine, hit the oil filter, bent it into the distributor, (slant six) broke the distributor cap. A piece of the cap fell down in the distributor which jammed it up and broke the distributor drive gear. (Which to my surprise was nylon).
I enjoy watching these motorized dinosaurs brought back to some kind of life. Cheaper than a replacement unit.
if sold again by junkyard owner, will be killers on the loose.
Seeing that fuel line removal tool took me back to the early 90s, I had to do a valve job on my POS 87 Aerostar with the 3.0. The day that hideous van drove away for good was a very happy day indeed.
I am so excited!!!! We have a 1995 E-150 with 350,000 Miles. Bought it about 9 years ago at 125,000 Miles. Driven it all across N. America exhaust, exhaust manifolds, gas tank, fuel pump. Still love it as a camper planning Arizona again soon. Love this one!!!!
fatal if van dies in Arizona summer.
Nice e150 econoline van 4.9 engine e4od transmission is what I have and I made many trips from south eastern Oklahoma to Phoenix,AZ got the 30feul tank.1fill gets me 1150 miles
Bellas Vistas, before you head this way to Arizona make dang sure the cooling system is top-notch or it will fail at the weakest point in this heat and it will always be at least 50 miles from anything but lizards and pissed-off snakes. LMAO
@@tracysellman1562 Roger that I know that temperature is scorching in that neck of the woods hahaha
@@stephenbullock1443, You bet ya buddy 122 in the shade. Arizona is no joke, retired Air Force Sargent here, been here since 1982, I went from being stationed in Fairbanks Alaska at -73 below zero to Tucson AZ. at 110 above, took me almost 2 years to get used to the heat. lol
You need a couple of winch lines set up in the shop so you can pull those hoopties into the building.
Sorry Ray I’m off to bed not exited 😂 late in Australia!👍 get the rest in the morning champ.
I grew up with family work vans. First, 92 Ford e150 then 97 e150. Had this problem before on the 97 I believe. The truck would shut off whenever it went from moving to stopped, like at a red light. Or when switching from drive to reverse. When your truck here first killed you mentioned you were gonna power brake the truck into the shop. That's when it struck me. We brought it to a local mechanic and he made it worse. A different mechanic fixed it but I've forgotten what the issue and fix was. Both trucks had vacuum issues and air vent doors were screwy. You already have a vid fixing a van's vacuum lines. This is an interesting series because it hits close to home 😂 Finally I get to see what the heck the problem was. Our van always restarted after killing at the red light, or I would power brake or power-shift if I was in a situation where I couldn't risk the truck dying. Not a fix by any means but we ran it that way for months before it finally did what this van is doing. 🤔
Fuel pump could be fine, it's just how the system is that causes the air and slow output as it requires the return line to be hooked up. What I would do is check spark plugs as the might be junk and check the fuel pressure regulator.
Since the truck started it's likely not a distributor problem well until you touched it and it's out of time now, so check the timing again, set it back to 10 BTDC with the spout plug unhooked. I'm sure you know this already though. I own my fare share of 5.0 in F-Series and pretty much know them in the back of my head.
@4:50 I can't believe we didn't get a "It ain't got no gas in it"! 😂
Loving it Ray, hope you're doing well!
Hahah it’s just too played out
he gets gas for wife unit van free.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs I wish I could video call you later today if I'm working on the van
@@forgetfulme1719 nah, that terrible stuff that came out is not gas anymore, if it gets even close to any good vehicle, it will be throwing codes all over the place and have the dash working like a Christmas tree, that is not something you put back in any car, or any engine at that
@@Qwertyuiop-wg5xu Yup, it's "varnished". That condition is why we either drain the gas out of engines that will be stored for months, like the lawn mower, or use a fuel stabilizer. I personally drain them, then start them to get all the gas out. I do it to my snow blower in the spring, and the mower in the fall. The 2-strokes are always stored dry, and get fresh gas mix when I need them. I also only refill gas cans 2 gallons at a time. That way my implements always have fresh gas. If I have left over gas in the can, I dump it into my car. Gas stays in the cans at most 2 weeks. My Grandfather was crazy about fresh gas... It leaked onto me....
Yeah my 95 Bronco had a 5.8 now its a 427sbf....I've replaced the battery cables, starter cables. starter, starter solenoid and battery. It's cranks slowly but once started it runs like a scalded dog...I've had this thing almost since it was new....good job Ray on keeping hope alive..I do not like those fuel line spring connections....I've used metal fuel line tools and plastic but damn
As far as engines go, you just can't beat back when engines. 298 and 302s
The best part about just the tip? Everyone wins!
Almost 500k!!! Good job Ray!!! You are working on a van that was down by the river!!!! Matt Foley will be pleased😂😂😂
You might need to take a play out of Wes's book and get yourself a crappy old ATV (or even a garden tractor) to tow things that won't run into the bay. It really helps reduce the "I'm alone today" aspect when you're stuck with something that won't run.
You like watching Wes and Ray work?
Hehe
Give a young guy a distributor and he looses his mind. 🤣 Yes absolutely cranking that distributor around and not actually setting it means the timing could be anything. Also lack of fuel, super lean can cause backfire through the intake. That being said you are doing it!! The more you do the more you know. I always enjoy your videos ur killing it.
This is going to be good! Old school diagnostics
A friend was working on a riding mower trying to get it started, no go, he called me over to help carb was plugged from sitting & he was spraying brake cleaner trying to get it to fire before clean up, good spark/compression but no light, I finally looked closely at the can of brake cleaner he was using, it said NON FLAMABLE, got a diffrent can it lit right up.
Fookin A Rainman, your content makes me happy!😉
Keep up the good work bro!🤘
Hi Ray, Another great video.
I commend your commitment and perseverance in trying to save some of these old beasties.
There is a ecm code plug, you can also jump it the run the fuel pump the same way that you did the inertia switch, I use a paper clip, it works good. I would also try running codes in it while I was there. The OBD1 system Ford used in these is almost as good as OBD2. If you can get it running, you can run an engine cylinder Ballance test and all sorts of things, just with a paperclip.
Can I reset my airbag module as well
Code I 1995 I believe he said. Brother had one. I think bad fuel to start off with, and there was a lot of air with that pump and fuel.
@@jerrynewberry2823 rusted feul filter is possibility it's common
Shit. In 1966 you could rebuild a gm 350 motor also using a Bobbie pin.
Water in gas tank. Bad gas, weak pump
Cloged filter bad plugs. Vacume leak
This could make for a good game show
Spin and pick the problem,
I'll take blowen head gasket for 350 ray.
Scanner white flips the letters. B _0___ c____k __a__. Care to solve the puzzle?
Can I buy a tune up for 50.
OBD1 Has an ignition firing control module on the firewall about the size of a domino next to the mode plug...A good place to start if it has intermittent spark...Maybe bad fuel pump motor impeller Yeah, I'm old school...😎😎😎
Yes, that TFI module was a common problem on the 5.0 Mustangs and the 351 is the bigger brother same engine family.
Nice seeing parts I recognize again, distributor, and on my Michigan melded 96 F250 those same style fuel lines except not in as good of condition. My friend yelling at me to put the torch down.... 10 minutes per fuel line!
Either replay buzzes only when both replays are plugged in very interesting @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I've always loved the old pre-EFI Ford engines. I grew up around them and love working on them because they're so simple and keep on running. I prefer Cleveland to Windsor, but apparently that puts me in a minority. 302 and 351 are my slow jam.
You're giving away you age. You're likely over 60, probably even over 65.
@@joeblowe7545 lol feels like over 60, but I'm 51
Actually they had EFI since around '86. So this 1995 model was well into the modern era.
300 for the win !!!!
early 351W and 351C were excellent engines. These days Ford can't make a good engine to save its life.
I feel like I'm watching a Junkyard Digs video 🤣🤣🤣
junkyard mechanic daily work.
i cant wiat for the next part keep up the good work
Man I have never been so anxious for a next episode of Rainman Rays! He could have put the General Hospital drama sound they play right before commercials at the end there and it would have been perfect to me. “Faux” Network might not have been so pleased though 😂
they contacting him for General Mechanic series.
A certain ford in-tank fuel pump in this era featured a rubber hose that would rot out and intermittently deliver use able fuel (35 + psi) to the injectors. Start when cold but quit after few minutes of operation and refuse to run until cold again. FYI
the fuel hose has micro scoop air intake.
@@forgetfulme1719 The one i encountered had melted to a puddle of black tar in the bottom of the fuel tank after failing to start for the last time, which is why i always clean the fuel tank following a pump change.
@@jameshollingsworth4714 use better fuel hose? heat plus fuel vapor vs old rubber fuel hose
@@forgetfulme1719 Just to be clear, i have been referring to the 8 inches of hose provided by the pump manufacturer to connect the internal pump to the pump mounting flange. This was provided by Ford during manufacture.
Classic mechanic quote, "that's weird". Don't forget a new battery!
Hmmm I missed you testing coil for constant spark, injector pulse not dropping out, 35psi minimum fuel pressure, ignite fuel sample to see how it burns, pull 1 or 2 plugs they could be fouled....
Check the plug wires to make sure they're going to the right places, that will also cause a heck of a backfire.
or real fire.
also if the distributor isn't in the right position. He was fiddling with it.
Aww poor van i noticed your doing a McGyver! Using the paperclip and electrics
that is where he learned how to fix cars.
Just as a note, on my 1996 F250 Truck I had a similar issue and when I pulled the plugs I was surprised it had started at all. Replaced the plugs and she fired right up. That lead me to my next problem of as soon as I put it in reverse it dies. Put it in drive and it will stumble but you can coax it to keep running. If you slam it into reverse or drive she will stay running and she will move.
Next step is the idle air control valve.
yeah, very low fuel in tank and surely needs full tune up for starters(the crust and rust in dist. says it all to me).
then move on to all the other issues it has, probably dirty TBI & IAC, map sensor from back firing(lol), pcv valve, fuel regulator, ignition module/wiring, vac. hoses, really long list of common things on them old fturds.
Wow, that's going to be a big project to get that van back to operational.
perfect UA-cam series.
Ray, you just made my day. GO Ford GO!!!! You’re going to swear, sweat and fight. The Ford looks like a tough one too. Drama right from the start. I know you’ll prevail but that is going to be a fight.
he likes challenges.
@@forgetfulme1719 exactly, I always used to work on Fords at our shop because the owners swore by and occasionally at them. Now that I’m the one armed exmechanic I only work on my personal vehicles. They’re all GMC, so I miss swearing and sweating over the Fords.
@@forgetfulme1719 If it was easy, then anyone could do it.
It's a ford I bought a Ford E150 van it kept breaking down for about 2 months had to replace the fuel pump driver, fuel pump and the fuel tank was rusted to he'll inside .Had to replace the fuel filter about 4 times. Intake manifold, Injectors. And lots more on the list.
Hey its my new Feerd guy
1st 5 minutes in I'm saying he's not even gonna get it in the garage. lol What a gem. :)
garage for better running cars only, not stage 4.
Just a suggestion - you might want to install a winch so you can pull vehicles in that aren't running
It will save you time and back problems
I bolted down a winch in my shop with a 20 foot hand held remote to pull in the dead ones. John in South Carolina
There's a forklift sitting there waiting for something to do
What if the forklift needed to be repaired? I've tried pushing one and it was not fun ,.
Plus a winch is not just for pulling
Ray used the forklift to unload his air compressor
It's good of you to take the van in and try and get it going some shops would look at it and sent the guy down the road have a great day
I was shouting at the screen use the onboard fuel pump to empty it lol, another great video.
You might want to check the fuel pressure, if the pressure is less than 45 or so it won't go through the injectors.
seeing all the bubbles, he can check air pressure too.
I have had similar before, My car ran fine until i got to just under half a tank then I got starting & running problems, It turned out to be the tank pump flexible plastic pipe had split, when i had over half a tank the split was submerged & it ran fine which gave me a clue what the issue was.
maybe take tip from ViceGrip Garage and use a boat gas tank with clean fuel.
make it into a boat.
I am so glad we got to work outside today! Thank you - winter in New England is no bueno.
Nice hearing that duramax running in the backround! :)
New-ish distributor, backfiring, possible burnt valves. I'd check the coil, then the firing order and make sure the plugs are on the correct distributor posts.
You need some of those manually switchable "relays" like the @CarWizard uses to activate things like the fuel pump nice and easy.
but it costs $.
Cool episode Ray. It's like the Florida Man version of Junkyard Digs. I'm all about it.
Sadly, I also work on my own. I pull disabled vehicles into my workshop. Depending on what else is there, I may get a tow vehicle right into the shed, otherwise I tow it close then I use a 2 tonne chain block attached to one of the vehicles in there already or the building frame structure and winch a dead car into the shop with the chain block. Many of the vehicles I get have transmission failure, so I do this often.
I've had lots of old ford's. Thet commonly had fuel level problems which varied to permanently full, gmhalf a tank to working fine from full to a g
Half tank. Made it easier to keep a full tank in the Iowa winter.
fuel pressure regulators were notorious for going bad on those 351's and the allen head bolts were bad for stripping out. not the threads but the bolt head itself.
Yep, I had one go out on a 94 Bronco. 351 W @ 60000 miles out on the highway. ☹
It would run then stall out. Then run then stall out. drove it like this for several miles.
Continuous air bubbles in the fuel stream is a key indicator that should be addressed first. Perhaps a cracked fuel suction line or connection in the tank?
Good point.Those old lines weren't designed to take ethanol fuel and it will destroy them.
the van wants to breathe again, inhale and exhale.
Paused at 9:00 my guess is the line and rail had preserved the quality of fuel, the stuff in the tank had turned to junk, and the brief start it had, used up the 'good' fuel in the line. The junk reached the engine, game over.
That would be my initial guess. I live in the winter wonderland, people have learned not to destroy their motorcycles and other summer only equipment with old fuel.
Edit: "Smells like turpentine" was the primary clue.
Check the timing chain by looking at the rotor and putting a ratchet on the crank go back-and-forth and see how much slop
Hi, I came across this channels because I had! fault with the abs brakes on my car Volswagen Bora 1999 and damn the fault to see how you searched for it! You have the best and most understandable site!
Etc. Freddy Kling From Norway
Being a professional auto technician for 42 years just a couple of quick suggestions that might make your life easier. If you have a good fuel pressure test set up, hook it up to the test port on the fuel rail or splice it into the fuel pressure line. You can not only take a direct reading of fuel pressure but push the bleed button and get a sample of the fuel and it’s volume over time. If it’s not getting fuel or the injectors are not firing I use a large propane tank with a high flow valve plugged into a large intake vacuum source. If it runs just drive it inside. Just a side note, if there is no pickup in the distributor turning it only changes the relationship between the rotor and the plug wire not the ignition timing.😊😊
T pins from the fabric store work great for backprobes.
Yeah they wig pins with points
Great start!
To soldier thru and fix it is what you do. But for me, If there was a high bluff overlooking a bottomless pit near by, I would consider pushing that van over the edge of said bluff. You da man!
He is in Florida, there are no high bluffs.
VAN GRAVITY!
A ford fuse panel tell you what a fuse is for. 😂😂😂. That would be awesome We can dream.
That’s a Ford thing. You have to refer to the owners manual
@@debrastarke3996 yeah. Too bad that’s never in the vehicle when it comes in. Working on RVs. We don’t do chassis work. But we do chassis work. Between chassis and house fuses not being labeled and what you would think is chassis and what is house that is the other depending on RV manufacturer. Typically I’m looking for a radio fuse. Lots of inline fuses used somewhere under the dash as the dash stereo will tie into the entertainment system of the RV (house part) and draw lots more amps than a typical dash stereo.
So am I looking for an ignition signal wire or am I looking for the stereo wire. Multiple chassis fuse panels on these usually ford body RVs both class C and class A and then the house fuse panel. Would love to pop a fuse panel cover off and not have to backprobe to check continuity especially the 2 fuse panels on driver side under the dash that you have to take the driver seat out to access and possibly the speaker the RV manufacturer put on the wall in front of the fuse panel and can’t open the panel door all the way Because you don’t really know where they have grabbed power for anything on the dash but if there was a fuse marked stereo you could start there. Then finally find the fuse panel hidden behind the air filter box you have to take the air filter box out to access is where the fuse you were looking for was hidden. But you have found on other panels before. All fuse panels should be labeled on the panel
Those fuel pressure reg were a known issue on the GM products, the interior diaphragm would tare and cause fuel to go back through the vacuum line.
1 of the issues.
👊🏻
@@forgetfulme1719 yes, one of many
Waiting for Part 2 with great anticipation Ray.
i would just try running it from a can of fuel to see if it is an issue from the tank or in the engine. It sounds like it may be both. The fuel coming from the engine is definately pointing to something leaking on the engine.
Remarkable how some folks are able to squeeze the daylights out of such vehicles and expect miracles in attempts to resurrect them.
Yeah, this thing is clapped out 🤣
he wants to squeeze the nightlights out of it now. after revived from coma, still a piece of crap.
@@willydavid nowadays lots of wrong mind people, when u see them, stay long distance away.
Wow that’s harsh brah.
@@willydavid last thing I want is Ray to get hurt. My van sat at another garage for 4 to 5 months. I’m extremely grateful for Tays services. He is an awesome mechanic. I use the van for my flooring business. Need it for 6 more months til I pay of transit then I’m buying another transit 250.
Ray according to what I found out here in Texas consumers they are looking for these types of work vans apparently Ford makes the best one on the market but what I found out is that Ford don’t make these vans anymore that’s why they are very very hot commodity right now you could almost get what you’re asking for it. So if the guy wants to sell it just let him know that Ford don’t make them anymore and so far what I have found out is that the construction people love these vans because the durability and the big engine and transmission these vans I’ve seen them go up to 700,000 miles without replacing the engine or transmission or differential that’s how durable they are. ✝️✝️✝️🇺🇸
This video reminded me of growing up and fiddling with junk cars to see if I could get them to rum.
he is offering free online diy mechanic school.
Hi Ray, you might want to also try. Remove distributor cap turn engine over
Watch to see if rotor spins. If not it needs timing chain.
Makes sense
hearing 351 make me miss my 1970 torino gt with a 351c loved that car didn't go by many gas stations
Good episode, always interesting to see how you diagnose a problem.
Looking forward to episode two.
If the tank is dry, the pump is dead. The fuel serves as a lubricant for the rotor and veins. With an in the tank pump, labor will be an issue. The cap and wires look new. If a tune up was done, question locations. Firing order may be off. The inertia switch was designed to shut off fuel supply in any impact over 5 mph.
Some days are like that, glad you didn't start a fire. I had a "Z" shape tool to get that distributor hold down bolt
Happy Thursday Ray. May have a couple things to fix on this big old van. 🤗
a dozen
Hey Ray, love you vids. I watch it every day now! Like whoa! And I love the 'wife unit' and her adventures in learning for her own car...good for her!!! She did that oil change very very well...! More confident, and she will learn a lot. Very smart lady!:) You are a great team!
An antique van( older than 25 years) resurrection video. Will it run? Smart to eliminate the bad fuel possibility. Gas
should not smell like turp. Why do I feel like I'm watching a neighbor on a Saturday, work on his old truck? After all this
we need closure on the problem. Pressure regulator is probably bad or it's a weak fuel pump. Think the first is most
likely. Get it running again Ray , it will last nearly forever. See ya in part 2.
Wow your the red green of back yard on this one.
Boy I tell you you're one brave dude but it up great job 👏 👍 respect.
Fords in that era had a recall on the fuel regulator. I had a 1993 f-150 with the straight 6 and it went bad.
WoW... Ray is a mind reader!!
I was thinking Fuel Pump Relay?
RAY says it's not! 😳🤯
What a cluster f###. Amazing. Truely a Rainman
..we have an engine starting spray here in Oz called..
‘Start You Bastard’
.. I’m not kidding..
The will it run videos by other guys usually hook up a small fuel tank/gas can with it's own fuel pump to get it going before they start messing with the vehicle's fuel tank or pump. It's a quick way to eliminate it from the mix.
Yes I can't wait to see if it's going to run.
from yard to shop and back.
Good morning to all!!!
Timing chain, igniting parts cannon, and fuel replacement with pump.
again, more $ to sink in the junk.
@@forgetfulme1719 I have absolutly no brand loyalty. So it's not a ford thing. But spend 2,000 get 100,000 miles. I'm in. Turning the distributer and no fire. That's the chain. Cap rotor plugs and wires. Maybe a module on the distributor. That's all worth it. Changing the pump and filter. That's worth it. Bad fuel will clog the pump and filter. Ans my 1988 f250 still runs well. Older vehicles help keep cost of the new plastic ones down. Just so you know. My 1994 Nissan sentra was headed for the scrap pile when I got it for 200 tuned it up fixed a few hoses and it's back on the road. Don't call it junk. To someone it's their pride and joy. Now the 6.0 power stroke is what international did to the buyers. Power stroked them.
@@mrheart4242 I'm with you man. The newest thing I have in my "Fleet" is a 2002 and I'm not to sure about it. I'd much rather "waste" a couple of grand getting the old POS going that buy the newer plastic planned obsolescence machines that they have gone back to.
I had to twist the distributor on an old Ford when it just kept dying at stop and had no power. After suspecting a timing issue, I got out of the car when it died again, twisted the distributor (it hadn't occurred to me that it shouldn't be loose at the time) and the car ran as good as could be expected for the rest of its life. Always a good thing to check.
A much newer Ford kept blowing it's coil pack as it would run so rough that I had to change the pack 4 times.
Trying to get the old stuff going, is a PITA; always enjoy your videos Ray
no choice, he owns the junkyard now.
There's your problem there is no gas in it Lol have a great day!
Thanks for the video Ray 👍 got your hands full on this one but you'll get it done. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️❤️❤️.
That noise sounds like the smog air injection pump. Ford usually put them down near the radiator.
Yep run a POS wire to the inertia switch side going to the pump on the passenger side kick panel