It's ok I love you again😂🤣😂 mine isnt as detailed but point blank take this off do this and your done lol. I ran into a stuck bolt that was as round as a marble.took 2 days to get it off so I shot what i could when I had time after work and did what I could with one hand.
Have you considered a video on either replacing the transmission, or rebuilding it? Your videos have been so valuable to me. Can't thank you enough for the detailed instructions you give and the extras you leave in your videos that other content creators edit out. Cheers
Not yet. I really only perform work as it's needed on my own cars. My transmissions still is good. A little slippage changing from P to D when first driving off but that's it. You don't feel anything else when driving. If I change the transmission I'll probably buy a rebuilt one of jdm one and just replace it.
Question, what was your symptoms for a bad torque mounts ? I saw mine and it was just like in the video I just wanna know if there’s like a noise when you go thru bumps. Because my crv has a sound that I have bad struts but I changed them and still have the same noise
Great video always helpful watching a install before you tackle the task this summer i installed skunk inlet and 70mm throttle body currently working on high flow cat and dc header soon been very helpful your previous video on things similar
Putting a new engine in my 1st gen crv right now. Problem is when I went to remove the drivers side torque mount, that 17mm nut on the end would not come off and when I hit it with my impact that whole rod threaded out of the ac bracket assembly. Now I have a new mount but I cannot get the 17mm nut off that bolt that goes through the mount. I've had it in a vice and applied heat and cold to it and my impact still won't get it off.
I am missing the large washer, and the 19mm bolt going thru the mount is significantly smaller in diameter that the mount hole. So how is the mount kept centered on the mounting bolt?
There's always something else dang it. You made this look so easy. Mine has an AC line over those top two mount nuts. Deep socket is too tall and shallow is too shallow. What did you use to get those off?
I The last time I replaced these one of the L side (drivers) frame bolt-hole, the spot weld nut inside the unibody frame croke loose. Do you have tips how to fix this? would a body shop need to fix it?
What are the symptoms of these failing? I have had a vibration at 45+. New tires, alignment, drive-shaft and upper diff mounts and it's still there. I'm at my wits end looking for cause.
Doubt these are the issue. These don't do much except help engine movement stability. Ever checked your wheels for balance issues? Actual wheel itself, not tires.
Is the hole in the torque mount supposed to be bigger in diameter than the shaft that goes into it? I just removed mine the other day to do the timing belt and I thought I was missing a bushing or the car had the wrong mount.
Been having vibration/wobble on left front when accelerating. Looks like from left is shot again. Did this about 5 years ago with something from AutoZone/O'Reilly. What brand did you use?
I haven't yet. But want to when I move on to my 88 CRX. Going to do a lot of the same things on that car that I'm doing here to get it all taken care of.
The welded nuts have broke loose. You could cut two little windows into the frame rail to feed a wrench in. That's the only way. You'll need that access to tighten them again also.
Garage Built Hondas Thanks! ya not to happy about it but is what it is.Exploring my options thanks for your suggestions very appreciated!Didn’t realize the bolts inside where tack welded beforehand or woulda been more easy goin with it...#TuneUpGoneBad
My son has a 97 CRV. What symptoms would be present for bad torque mounts? He’s getting some creaking sounds as he accelerates and brakes. Thanks for the vid.
I like the way you had in the size wrenches needed and demonstrated from point-of-view actual I have a question though concerning the driver side front torque Mount I tried to take the 19 and the bolt is turning behind the nut does this mean another part is needed? I cannot see the backside of this part what is the name of the piece the 19 mm nut bolts onto? Many thanks in advance Robert
It should turn. That stud is part of the ac compressor bracket. Unfortunately you may not be able to replace that mount unless you can get that but removed. It would be a whole other issue having to remove the compressor bracket.
I have to do this on my civic, my mounts look even worse? What would be the symptoms, engine movement wich would make the car feel a bit "jerky"? :) Good video once again!
Maybe slightly but I don't think you can really notice. I couldn't tell after the install but it will help extend the life of your motor mounts but taking some of the stress off of them.
Hi, thanks for the instructions! at 3:33 the new mounts seem to have bigger holes than the bolts they slide onto. They rotate freely and the original ones seem to fit tight. Is that supposed to be like that? cheers
Are these the only engine mounts on the CR-V?? I am looking to purchase a 1999 LX manual FWD with 160K miles and the seller says it needs new engine mounts...These torque mounts the only ones? Or are there rear mounts as well? Anything else I should look out for when buying it? THANKS!
I know its old but why did you replace them ? Because they where ripped broken or because you hear a clunk noise upfront. I hear a cluck noise i replaced alott of shit up front suspension wise and still hear the cluck mine are ripped broken also im hoping this solves the issue. I'll keep you posted.
Get the polyurethane ones mine went bad from brand new in 6 months. When they tear or wear really bad the entire engine will shift under load/ “torque” forward and backward a good 2 inches it’s really bad
Hey man is me again, and well i really need your help, remember the little Honda i had, well today a big rig totaled it, but i haven't given up, i really love the EF's and i was wondering if you could help me look for a 91 Shell
Been following your instructions, which are excellent. I’m having difficulty loosening the two upper mount nuts that will allow the lowering of the engine. Was there any trick to these? Or are they just going to need some PB Blaster? Thanks again for the excellent videos!!
Try to soak them first, if not use a breaker bar of some sort. I have an old handle from a floor Jack that I'll use as a breaker bar and that really helps.
It’s been a couple weeks since it replaced these. I’ve been experiencing a vibration at idle, and gets worse at about 30-40 mph, then lessens at higher speeds. Any thoughts on the cause? I have not replaced any of the other mounts. I believe it is an engine vibration, cause it remains at idle. Any theories would be appreciated.
There's another video... ua-cam.com/video/RfxJgmzrOfs/v-deo.html He doesn't talk about it, but he intentionally removes the stud, and then is able to install the mount without releasing the upper mount. What do you think? From FSM, he should have torqued the stud first to 61. The the 14 mm to 33. And lastly the nut to 43. So pissed, I just did this 3 years ago. My car wobbles and vibrates with greater than 2,500 rpm. Mount is shot.
This is an easy job IF those 2 bolts on the engine mount come loose easy to lower the engine. I can't get mine loose they feel like they are cemented on and they are not even rusted. There just on real real tight. Maybe if I jack up the engine a little bit it will take some pressure of that engine mount so I can loosen up those 2 bolts.
I disagree, not easy to remove mount holding bolts, if their exposed tread is rusted, it took me like 6 hours to replace passnger mount lower and upper, two hours just to remove lower mount bolt because of the rusted tread bolt, I had to torched it first and then remove the bolt slowly so it doesnt break on you, if it breaks,, you freaking done already, you will not be able to drive the car anymore, unless you fix the broken bolt and it will take you very long time may be two days. Oh basically it may too much works if the bolt are rusted, it will take more two hours just to remove the bolts safely without breaking them by using of course a torch flam. And then you need to clean the bolt tread with a metal wire brush before putting back or if they have to much rust and damaged, you need to replace them.
Really bad video, literally only showed like half the work done and just keep jump cutting to different points. Maybe assume someones following along and doesn't want to miss a step. If you were using this as a guide this would be like trying to build an ikea cabinet when the instructions are in mandarin.
Had to dislike damnit......
I just got done doing this and the ac belt/pulley....
I am editing and get notified of this video!!!!!
I hate you!!!!
😂🤣😂🤣
😂😂😂
It's ok I love you again😂🤣😂 mine isnt as detailed but point blank take this off do this and your done lol. I ran into a stuck bolt that was as round as a marble.took 2 days to get it off so I shot what i could when I had time after work and did what I could with one hand.
Question,what would cause a air surge sound when accelerating? I have exhausted every outlet and looked everywhere. Is it just a ram pipe sound?
Check the vacuum lines, especially the ones from the booster to the manifold including the check valve.
It was taking me forever to figure out how to take out the driver's side. Thanks for making this vid!
Glad it helped!
Have you considered a video on either replacing the transmission, or rebuilding it?
Your videos have been so valuable to me. Can't thank you enough for the detailed instructions you give and the extras you leave in your videos that other content creators edit out. Cheers
Not yet. I really only perform work as it's needed on my own cars. My transmissions still is good. A little slippage changing from P to D when first driving off but that's it. You don't feel anything else when driving. If I change the transmission I'll probably buy a rebuilt one of jdm one and just replace it.
@GarageBuiltHondas where would you recommend I get a new transmission for my 98 CR-V? I'm trying to get ahead of it, I think it's on its way out.
Hey, I've been doing an engine swap on my 01 CR-V this weekend. Your videos are super helpful!
Love to hear it, and glad to lend a hand!!
Absolutely STELLAR!!!! Thank you for making the vids you do and looking forward to the future one...speshally the CR-V/B22 ones!!
Good tutorial. Nice camera work. My 1999 CRV needs new torque mounts. Thanks for the help
👍
Question, what was your symptoms for a bad torque mounts ? I saw mine and it was just like in the video I just wanna know if there’s like a noise when you go thru bumps. Because my crv has a sound that I have bad struts but I changed them and still have the same noise
I need to replace mine this is a great help.
The 14mm bolt in the front at the driver side in my car is loose but doesn't want to come out, did I break something there?
Great video always helpful watching a install before you tackle the task this summer i installed skunk inlet and 70mm throttle body currently working on high flow cat and dc header soon been very helpful your previous video on things similar
Love that I get to help out on other projects! ,👍
Do the mounts for 2001 Honda CR-V automatic transmission have liquid inside them
Putting a new engine in my 1st gen crv right now. Problem is when I went to remove the drivers side torque mount, that 17mm nut on the end would not come off and when I hit it with my impact that whole rod threaded out of the ac bracket assembly. Now I have a new mount but I cannot get the 17mm nut off that bolt that goes through the mount. I've had it in a vice and applied heat and cold to it and my impact still won't get it off.
I’m having this same issue did you solve it??!
Same issue
Any resolutions?
This was helpful. Hope my aftermarket mount does the trick, fingers crossed.
It would be amazing if you could do a video like this for the rear motor mount
I absollutely cant lose that 19mm nut. Maybe i need to cut everything Rubber inside of the mount beacause IT springs. ? Thx
You could try it. Maybe use some heat. That'll help a lot of times.
Do you know what size thread is the 19 mm nut?
Thanks again for the crv videos!
You're welcome, got a couple more I'd like to knock out soon, then back to some fun stuff!
Do you know where I could find the ft-lb specs for the motor mounts? I wanna do all of them and am having a hard time
Nice did all of mine when I did timing belt/water pump😁
I would've also, but didn't have the parts. 👎 Lol
what size bolt holds the mounts to the frame?
Exactly the same as my Ej9 Civic ('99 Honda Civic for the European market with a D14z2 engine)
How easy was ur 19mm nut to come off. Mine took the whole nut and bolt off. Can't seem to get the nut off by itself
Mine came off easily thankfully. I've removed others that have been difficult like yours.
I am missing the large washer, and the 19mm bolt going thru the mount is significantly smaller in diameter that the mount hole. So how is the mount kept centered on the mounting bolt?
The washer does that job. It's not a normal washer.
There's always something else dang it.
You made this look so easy. Mine has an AC line over those top two mount nuts. Deep socket is too tall and shallow is too shallow.
What did you use to get those off?
I got it. I was afraid to bend the metal part of the AC line out of the way
Torque specs are 61 lb-ft for anyone wondering
Torque specs are for weiners hahaha
2:40 how do you remove those 2?
I The last time I replaced these one of the L side (drivers) frame bolt-hole, the spot weld nut inside the unibody frame croke loose. Do you have tips how to fix this? would a body shop need to fix it?
You could drill the hole a little larger, and weld a nut into the spot. I've done this before.
Excellent! Thank You.
The two bolt holding the mount into the chassis, Are they breakable ? Because someone told me they can brake/snapped.
They are not supposed to break or snap. They are a pretty big size, I believe an M10 so they shouldn't break at all.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Cool, thank mate :D
Love your content. Any plan on doing a Turbo build ?
Bonjours from the French side of Canada :D
We want to, but hopefully on a friend's car. I might build a JRSC on a sohc VTEC EF I have. We'll see what time/money allow!! 👍
Mines our shot would it cause steering wheel vibration, when accelerating?
That would more likely be an engine mount.
What are the symptoms of these failing? I have had a vibration at 45+. New tires, alignment, drive-shaft and upper diff mounts and it's still there. I'm at my wits end looking for cause.
Doubt these are the issue. These don't do much except help engine movement stability.
Ever checked your wheels for balance issues? Actual wheel itself, not tires.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Found a loose tie rod. Gonna start there.
Is the hole in the torque mount supposed to be bigger in diameter than the shaft that goes into it? I just removed mine the other day to do the timing belt and I thought I was missing a bushing or the car had the wrong mount.
Yes
@@GarageBuiltHondas Thanks for the reply AND the great videos.
Been having vibration/wobble on left front when accelerating. Looks like from left is shot again. Did this about 5 years ago with something from AutoZone/O'Reilly. What brand did you use?
I bought mine from Amazon
Do you need to support engine when doing the passenger side?
I don't recall, if I didn't in the video then you probably don't have to. If I did, then try it and let me know how it goes. It may work.
The middle 19mm bolt was off centered with the new mount. Will that affect anything?
No
Another great how to video! Thanks
Did you make any D series valve adjustment video? Or plan for do it?
I haven't yet. But want to when I move on to my 88 CRX. Going to do a lot of the same things on that car that I'm doing here to get it all taken care of.
@@GarageBuiltHondas awesome! Love the CRX 👍
My 2 14mm bolts are just spinning can’t get them out any suggestions on what I should do?Seems to be no access point
The welded nuts have broke loose. You could cut two little windows into the frame rail to feed a wrench in. That's the only way. You'll need that access to tighten them again also.
Garage Built Hondas Thanks! ya not to happy about it but is what it is.Exploring my options thanks for your suggestions very appreciated!Didn’t realize the bolts inside where tack welded beforehand or woulda been more easy goin with it...#TuneUpGoneBad
I had to do the same on my green Civic. It bugged me at first but doesn't bother me at all now since you don't see it. Maybe you'll feel the same way.
Great vid as always brotha
Thanks, simple, not really fun content but trying to get my CRV buttoned up!!
@@GarageBuiltHondas maybe not funny but useful for sure!
My son has a 97 CRV. What symptoms would be present for bad torque mounts? He’s getting some creaking sounds as he accelerates and brakes. Thanks for the vid.
I'd check the engine mounts and these. Creaking could be something like a bushing also though.
I have a question...
on driver side... if you removed the rubber bolt, it's necessary to low down the engine?
Sometimes but not always. I needed to lower it to be able to pull the mount off, I wasn't able to without lowering it a little.
I like the way you had in the size wrenches needed and demonstrated from point-of-view actual I have a question though concerning the driver side front torque Mount I tried to take the 19 and the bolt is turning behind the nut does this mean another part is needed? I cannot see the backside of this part what is the name of the piece the 19 mm nut bolts onto? Many thanks in advance
Robert
It should turn. That stud is part of the ac compressor bracket. Unfortunately you may not be able to replace that mount unless you can get that but removed. It would be a whole other issue having to remove the compressor bracket.
Is this manual transmission?
What is 14 bolts broke inside and won’t come out now? Cut them then what?
Drill out the hole, add a rivnut, then you can use it again.
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks bro just ordered a rivnut tool finger crossed diving with no lower mounts and I’m worried
I have to do this on my civic, my mounts look even worse? What would be the symptoms, engine movement wich would make the car feel a bit "jerky"? :) Good video once again!
Maybe slightly but I don't think you can really notice. I couldn't tell after the install but it will help extend the life of your motor mounts but taking some of the stress off of them.
Bought my integra used and the driver side mount is missing. Need to install these ASAP
It will help. You can get urethane ones also if you want to upgrade but be careful, they will make the car vibrate.
Garage Built Hondas cool thanks. I ordered oem. The car already vibrates pretty bad lmao
👍
Thanks for the help!
Hi, thanks for the instructions!
at 3:33 the new mounts seem to have bigger holes than the bolts they slide onto. They rotate freely and the original ones seem to fit tight. Is that supposed to be like that?
cheers
Mine are like that, once bolted down it'll be just fine.
I have the same issue and noise coming from them by find a way to quiet it down !!! Help
would it make a clunking sound when driving?
Usually that's from a motor mount needing replacement.
I’m doing this torque mount right now and the stud actually backed out of the bracket because the metal bushing is ceased
Terrible.
Are these the only engine mounts on the CR-V?? I am looking to purchase a 1999 LX manual FWD with 160K miles and the seller says it needs new engine mounts...These torque mounts the only ones? Or are there rear mounts as well? Anything else I should look out for when buying it? THANKS!
There are 3 engine mounts and these two here torque mounts.
Torque specs?
I know its old but why did you replace them ? Because they where ripped broken or because you hear a clunk noise upfront.
I hear a cluck noise i replaced alott of shit up front suspension wise and still hear the cluck mine are ripped broken also im
hoping this solves the issue.
I'll keep you posted.
Mine didn't make any noise or clunk, they were just torn. Might want to check your axles.
Get the polyurethane ones mine went bad from brand new in 6 months. When they tear or wear really bad the entire engine will shift under load/ “torque” forward and backward a good 2 inches it’s really bad
Surely there are torque values for all of these nuts and bolts. What are they?
In description
I wish you could buy a stiffer urethane version. Twist engines work havoc to exhaust systems
amzn.to/3TYjfdw
Are these Honda OEM torque mounts?
No, I'm using these. amzn.to/3guEDYJ
@@GarageBuiltHondas thank you for the link
Cool video 👍nice work. do you have any clip about central mount. i see it very difficult. thanks for you help man
The center motor mount in the rear?
@@GarageBuiltHondas yep that one
I don't have any videos. It's rough but just takes some extensions and you should be able to get it out.
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks man 👍 i try it. By the way all your clips are very helpful 👍👍👏
Will this work for a 02 honda CRV?
Unfortunately no. It's a different engine setup and the mounts are different. It might be similar in the process though.
Hey man is me again, and well i really need your help, remember the little Honda i had, well today a big rig totaled it, but i haven't given up, i really love the EF's and i was wondering if you could help me look for a 91 Shell
Where are you located?
@@GarageBuiltHondas over here by montwood
Are you looking for a hatchback?
@@GarageBuiltHondas I'm looking for a hatback shell, I'm gonna use my other car as a donor, but of you have a hatchback that would be awesome too
Been following your instructions, which are excellent. I’m having difficulty loosening the two upper mount nuts that will allow the lowering of the engine. Was there any trick to these? Or are they just going to need some PB Blaster? Thanks again for the excellent videos!!
Try to soak them first, if not use a breaker bar of some sort. I have an old handle from a floor Jack that I'll use as a breaker bar and that really helps.
Got it, thanks. Some liquid wrench and a 3 foot black pipe did the trick!! Thanks again.
Nice, you're welcome!
It’s been a couple weeks since it replaced these. I’ve been experiencing a vibration at idle, and gets worse at about 30-40 mph, then lessens at higher speeds. Any thoughts on the cause? I have not replaced any of the other mounts. I believe it is an engine vibration, cause it remains at idle. Any theories would be appreciated.
The actual engine mounts are in need of replacement is the most common issue when experiencing vibrations.
Why did you do this? What were the symptoms?
My CR-V still felt fine. Once these fail your engine mounts will have 100% or the torque load and thus can fail faster.
Garage Built Hondas
I need to check mine, do you have an a link to a good CRV wheel bearing replacement tutorial?
Cómo se llama esa pieza
I wish you had put the torque specs on this video
There's another video...
ua-cam.com/video/RfxJgmzrOfs/v-deo.html
He doesn't talk about it, but he intentionally removes the stud, and then is able to install the mount without releasing the upper mount. What do you think?
From FSM, he should have torqued the stud first to 61. The the 14 mm to 33. And lastly the nut to 43.
So pissed, I just did this 3 years ago. My car wobbles and vibrates with greater than 2,500 rpm. Mount is shot.
Does it have a 3rd mount? Great video!
No, just these 2 torque mounts. There are 3 motor mounts though.
@@GarageBuiltHondas so there’s 2 torque mounts and 3 motor mounts? Are those apart from the suspension mounts? Thanks for the info 🙏
Yes
Hey neighbor ☝️😎🙏
How you been buddy?!
Very helpful
👍
Nice job
Thank you
This is an easy job IF those 2 bolts on the engine mount come loose easy to lower the engine. I can't get mine loose they feel like they are cemented on and they are not even rusted. There just on real real tight. Maybe if I jack up the engine a little bit it will take some pressure of that engine mount so I can loosen up those 2 bolts.
Try it. It may help
@@GarageBuiltHondas I got those bolts off in the upper mount and the lower mount has been replaced.
Hello, friend, I am a factory specializing in the production of engine mount, do I have any chance to cooperate with you?
Yes. What kind of mount and for what vehicle?
Garage Built Hondas High quality. Toyota and Honda boss add my whats+8615989113805
Cries in Midwestern 😆
Phone a friend, thanks bro
...btw I completed this with wheels and plastic on, 98 rd1
I love my CRV. She needs more TLC. I’m disabled
3:48 right side
It does not matter if those four arms are broken it does not rely on them to work
👍
Cool
I disagree, not easy to remove mount holding bolts, if their exposed tread is rusted, it took me like 6 hours to replace passnger mount lower and upper, two hours just to remove lower mount bolt because of the rusted tread bolt, I had to torched it first and then remove the bolt slowly so it doesnt break on you, if it breaks,, you freaking done already, you will not be able to drive the car anymore, unless you fix the broken bolt and it will take you very long time may be two days. Oh basically it may too much works if the bolt are rusted, it will take more two hours just to remove the bolts safely without breaking them by using of course a torch flam. And then you need to clean the bolt tread with a metal wire brush before putting back or if they have to much rust and damaged, you need to replace them.
Sounds like a painful experience. I'm lucky to live in the desert.
Really bad video, literally only showed like half the work done and just keep jump cutting to different points. Maybe assume someones following along and doesn't want to miss a step. If you were using this as a guide this would be like trying to build an ikea cabinet when the instructions are in mandarin.
Good luck! Lol
😮
✌️💯
You definitely just installed the wrong mounts.
Lol
not usefull at all can see where its goes
Do both sides use the same mount?
No, they are different
Cómo se llama esa pieza