2002-2006 Honda Cr-v Motor Mounts Replacement with Window weld
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video, I add 3m window weld on these Ebay motor mounts that I got for $40. Wanted to make sure my mounts last for longer than normal ones. This is a 2003 Honda Cr-v but the install should work for 2002-2006 since they are all similar design. Basic hand tools, floor jack and an afternoon should be all it takes. If you have an impact gun, does makes things faster. Enjoy and thanks for watching.
-I used 3m window weld I got from Amazon for $25, its easy to find and you can search it on Amazon.
-I also bought new motor mounts from Ebay for $40 but after tax and all it was $45. There are multiple listings for these so you can also find cheaper ones on there, it was just that this specific one was closer to where I lived so I knew the shipping wasn't going to take as long even though I could've gotten cheaper ones if I didn't mind waiting.
For the 3rd mount (right side of engine bay under battery), I would recommend bolting the mount the the chassis first. Starting with that hard to reach one in the back, and then bolting in the pin that connects it to the transmission.
I bolted mine to the transmission first, and then tried doing that chassis bolt it in the back. Not only did it make it harder to line up, but my threads got messed up and it wouldn’t screw in. Hopefully someone that needs this stumbles across.
That’s how he did it in the video, I did it in a different order and had issues.
That was super nice of you to post that. Thanks man/women whoever you are lol 💪 😎
thank you
Thanks for this it's really helping me. BIG WARNING ON THE 1ST ONE BOTTOM BOLT!! DON'T USE A CLOSED END WRENCH BECAUSE THERE'S NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE ONCE YOU GET IT OUT TO REMOVE THE BOLT OR THE WRENCH!!
Glad I can help
Great to fall back in love with your car after some hard work enjoyed it a lot
Oh man. Love that feeling the best. When u fix it and the fix works and everything is smooth again.
This is exactly the noise mine was doing when accelerating and couldn’t find any other video with the same issue. I did those today and bought mine mounts from the dealer because the aftermarket ones don’t last. They are expensive at $650 for all. There’s a reason why I could see them so cheap on Amazon at $70 for all of them.
Thanks for the video👍
You’re welcome. Im glad I was able to help.
Nice video, and great idea to fill them in with sealant. I replaced the motor mounts on my ‘04 CRV about a year ago, using those same cheap mounts (followed some other UA-cam video). Now, the car is having the same symptoms it had before, so one of the mounts must’ve gone bad and, sadly, I’m going to have to replace at least on of them again. I wish I’d thought of your sealant trick!
At least this time around. Using the sealant will make the motor mounts last a bit longer
I plan on trying exactly this with my CRV, Im getting steering wheel and dash vibrations during idle so Im certain at least one or more of them are shot.
Thanks for this video man, i really appreciate it and will be using it. Maybe ill film it too
I have to replace these on my 2005 CR-V as well. Mine is a stick shift so I believe that at least one of the mounts is different on my car compared to the automatics. This is also the same process on a Honda Element as well.
Awesome job thanks for sharing I'm about to get done this task on Sunday and I'm confident I will get it done right
as long as you have the right tools. this should be a fairly not hard of a task to do and makes a big difference to the car.
Thanks for all the clues for doing this job. I am getting my Daughters car into shape will be doing all 4.
Good luck and be safe doing it
you can get to the lower mount top bolt by removing intake and battery, makes it so much easier but thanks mate
another one bites the dust! rear mount not bad but replaced anyway. way easier than front mount!
Yeah I agree. That front mount is prob the toughest one.
Thanks, I just did mine today. The easiest was the rear one and the most difficult the front one.
I agree. Glad this could help you.
I like ideas that are outside the box., There is a product called pourable urethane , it's similar to the stuff found in high performance control arm bushings .Usually motor mounts last a lifetime, so I 'm assuming you have checked for other stuff hitting the chassis etc.,Also what may help is the new synthetic transmission fluid (which is light years ahead of the old factory fluid) .It takes about 7.1 liters ,but only if you drain it completely .There are good u tube videos showing how this is done. I use the standard honda fluid in the rear differential because it is not the same as the transmission. These fluids should be changed if you want the transmission to last, & an added benefit is it will click immediately into gear without any free revving hesitation, which will increase the movement of the engine & transmission, & cause clunking.
Nice! Good looking out, I will look into those new fluid for my next flush. And I will also check out those pourable urethane.
Never use anything but genuine honda atf.
I also found that the a arm bolts should be checked..... the passenger side front had a broken weld. So it would pop back n forth. Make the knocking sound.. I had to fix that . Tighten and spot weld again. It was a factory round nut with spot weld holding location only.
Right on brother that was really good and I like that you showed the result that the end good job
Thanks man. I appreciate it
thanks a bunch. just got the front beast replaced!
That was a nice clean job very good thank you take care and I continually watch your videos take care My friend
thanks. i appreciate it
For my 2005 Honda crv (Automatic) , Honda dealership quoted me for parts and labor.. Front mount $331, Rear mount $357 and for Transmission mount $491. And that's before tax
Man they are charging arm and leg. That is ridiculous
Great job !! Very Well explained as Well
It look like that one motor mount you picked up off the cardboard was defective because you could see through it
Are u referring to the broken ones?
For the passenger side engine mount is there a way to add window weld to that one?
@@GameFrontier-n4f no,
Not for that side
Did you drill out and drain the passenger side one to fill it?
@@Colin-s5b no. I didn’t touch the passenger side one.
Did u window weld the mount that goes under the power steering reservoir??
No, that’s the only one I didn’t do cause there was no where to add it to.
@projectsbyj25 ok thanks. I was thinking of removing that thin piece of rubber and filling in the inside of it..
Did this help with idle vibrations in drive?
Yes, replacing your mounts can help with that. As far as window caulking them, mine I have no issues but others have said they feel vibrations which would makes sense since you’re basically turning a mount into a solid piece.
My issue exactly right now. Honda don't want to repair it...
Nicely done
Thank you
Why would the transmission mounts cause a grinding sound?
could be bad gears, low or dirty oil. improper alignment of transmission. really it can be a number of things but these are the things i can think of at the moment. metal gears rubbing itself will tend to go bad over a long period of time.
@@projectsbyj25I don’t get how changing your transmission mounts would stop the grind…?
@@juanhurtado2679 sorry I must’ve mis-read your earlier comment. Grinding sounds from the transmission wouldn’t come from the motor mounts, that would be an internal thing with the transmission.
Do you HAVE to use Locktite or can you skip it?
I think u should be fine without it.
@@projectsbyj25 okay thanks
I am watching the video right now. Can you give me any updates? This is a 2 years old video, so it will be great if you tell me for how many miles you got to drive with that job?
The mounts are still holding up great! I didn’t even realize how much time has passed since, wow. But yeah, I still daily drive the Crv and the mounts have been solid. No weird vibrations when driving or shifting of the gears. I really got my moneys worth for sure.
Que marca son los soportes quiero comprar unos en amazon
I don’t recall the name exactly but it’s all over Amazon or eBay for cheap. Usually the cheaper ones are all of same quality
Thank You
How long did these last?
So far it’s been 3 years since I got these on and I still drive them. They’re still holding solid.
I cannot for the life of me remove the rear mount which is supposed to be the easy one lol.
I used a DeWalt impact wrench with "600 ft. lbs max breakaway torque" and it will not come out.
I'm not sure what to do
Do you think it's easier to remove the bottom 3 first and then the 17mm?
I also am starting to think maybe i shouldn't support the transmission with a jack while trying to take the 17 mm out.
Try spraying some PB blaster on the bolts. Weird angle for one of them but if you can. And just let it soak for a few minutes and then try to loosen it off. But I would start with loosening the 3 bolts first and make sure your transmission is supported underneath and finally remove that large 17mm bolt. Also if the impact gun doesn’t work, try using breaker bars with long extension to break loose the bolt. Best of luck
Who did the music?
Link to those mounts?
I don’t have the link but you can go onto eBay or Amazon, type it in and it should be on there.
It's much easier if you lower the subframe
true if you already had the subframe off but if you didnt, it wouldve been more work since the subframe is also connected to suspension parts. would've been more work to remove the subframe and then tackle these mounts.
@@projectsbyj25 You only need to lower the subframe, not remove it. There are 4 bolts that you loosen for the subframe. Remove the front mount bolt (horizontal) and then loosen or remove the 2 or 3 (don't remember how many) rear mount bolts. With the engine supported the subframe can be lowered a 4-6 inches in the front. That's how you can replace your oil pan, if it ever gets a hole in it. Subframe bolts are in the 4 corners, very easy to access.
@@dan9809 if you put it that way, i suppose that works too. I had thought you meant to remove the whole subframe just to replace the mounts and I just know that wouldve been more work than it needed to be. but yeah, i guess that method works too.
Nice vid bro! Well explained, how's the 3M window weld holding so far? is this like the silicone sealant? Thanks.
Car stills runs nicely to this day. The mounts are holding up nicely. And yes the window weld is a type of sealant. When It dries, it become like a hard rubber. That’s probably my best way of describing it.
@@projectsbyj25 Thanks bro! this helps! :)
Must warn people about using a empack gun you must be wear of the torque to not over torque.
Where is your fog light mounted
I mounted it in the middle of the front bumper where the opening for air goes to the radiator.
I have a 2003 CRV, changing the mounts is beyond my skill level but I like to watch. I have this soft rumbling sound near the firewall when the car is in drive, it goes away in neutral, i've had mechanics replace one of the mounts claiming the others are still good, sound persist, goggle the noise, they mentioned a loose heat shield. I just had another mechanic look at the car, he claims it the transmission mount but transfer case is broken so the mount can't be changed, he recommends a rebuilt transmission. Time for a 3rd opinion.....it's frustrating when you can't figure out the noise and mechanics have their opinion what is wrong.
Man I hear you. I now have this squeaking noise coming from where the serpentine belt area is and I just can’t pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from. I thought it was the belt so went and bought a new one put that on and it made no difference the noise is still there so I have a headache now just trying to diagnose exactly where that noise is coming from.
@@projectsbyj25 that could have been water pump potentially
@@amax7773 turns out it was actually the belt tensioner. Crazy huh? Who would’ve guess, in all my years of touching cars, that’s the first time a belt tensioner has failed and it was a pain in the butt of a job to fix.
@@projectsbyj25 dang. That's crazy. Don't know if I ever would have been able to diagnose that one
Why not just use the window Weld on the old mounts?
Some of the old ones were broken already, nothing holding it together, sure the window weld could’ve held it some what but you already went through the trouble of taking them out and replacing them, mind as well put new ones in. At least at this rate, they’re going on more sturdy than normal ones.
Hasznos videó!Köszönöm!
What is that cool mpg device next to your temp gauge? Awesome video I learned quite a lot from you.
That is a “scangauge 2”, and thanks, I’m glad I’m able to help others out also.
Could you do a video on how you added the MPG indicator onto your dash? That looks pretty handy! Or at least link it.
Oh ahah. Yeah, that’s call a “scangauge 2” it can read trouble engine codes and erase them as well as use for tracking mileage and water temps. Now I really just use it to track my water temp on there. But Amazon and eBay has them for sell. I think it’s cheaper on Amazon.
@@projectsbyj25 wow, that looks really useful. Is it an easy installation? Thanks
@@ipodgooroo yeah, it comes with sticky velcros and all it does is hooks up to your obd2 port. Majority of cars 1996 and up should have a port for you to plug in underneath the driver side dash near where the pedals are located.
@@projectsbyj25 I'll definitely get one of those! Didn't realise something as simple as an OBD port accessory could do that!
What would happen if you continue to drive a car with bad engine mount? Will it cause engine failure?
The engine is suppose to only allow for small wiggle room. Not excessive which can worn the parts and pieces inside it down. Just not good for the engine in the long run.
what radio did you put in it? does it work/sound well? thinking about doing this, and need something with bluetooth or apple carplay. thanks
I just got a cheap eBay one for around $45. It’s the double din 7”. There’s so many generic names and makes but it’s all the same. Check out my other video on the latest radio I install into the car.
Hey brother thanks. Question any info on your radio. I’ll like to get one like that thanks
yea they have alot on ebay. just type in "double din bluetooth radio" and they should have a variety of them for less than $50
Thanks for that!
You’re welcome
What’s the quality of the motor mounts? I have the same issue.
Since I window weld the motor mounts, I can’t say for what kind of quality it would have without the window weld but so far mine is still holding up, motor mounts are still solid and good and no weird vibrations coming from engine
Salutes brother good job.
Thanks
3M silicon its good idea for mountains
Us abile or no
How's your filled mounts holding up? Also, don't forget to change your rear differential fluid. It kind of sounds like when your rear diff fluid goes bad.
The mounts are still holding and no weird vibrations. But yeah the rear diff fluid hasn’t been change in 2 years so might be time to do that soon.
@@projectsbyj25 Are there any alternatives to using 3M Window Weld?
@@ceelo3324 uhm yeah I’m sure there are, it’s just window weld sealant so I’m sure there is other brand besides 3m
I know it's been 2 yrs since this came out. But how does the mount holding up with the winter sealant
Mounts are still holding up great. Still daily drive the crv and so far so good. I will do an update video on it coming soon
@Projects By J before did your vibrate when the car is on drive on a red light stop. Mine is doing that and vibrate even more if I turn on the ac
@@teamfastbreak7 yes. Very much so. I didn’t notice a difference when I had the ac on but granted the motor mounts were busted already so even if it vibrated between the ac on or off, I couldn’t tell since it was shaking already. But check your mounts, I’m sure it’s the main culprit. Sucks to do the job but once u get it done, it’ll be rewarding.
Thank you for this video i followed it step by step and now my crv mounts are like new again. Thanks for the upload. would also like to ask what stereo you have installed because i have been looking to upgrade mine with a touch screen.
nice! im glad this video helped. With the stereo, it was just a cheap ebay stereo with bluetooth capabilities so i can bluetooth my music. if you go to ebay, just type in (7" double din stereo) and it should pop up a bunch of cheap ones from $30-$40 range. They're all generic so really theres not 1 specific brand it belongs to
I knew it! I have an Element and 1A Auto sent me a garbage ass TRQ mount for a CRV... no balance weight welded on. Like yours. The upper tranny mount should have a weight. They also sent me one so crooked and bent I would never be able to put it on anyway... almost did until it wouldnt go on straight. TRQ sucks... all chinese parts suck... Japanese parts are a lil spendy but they work
Good job!
Does that fit to crv 2004 2.0 AT AWD?
It should since they use the same engine.
great job. how long did the new mounts last?
im still driving the car to this day and they are holding up very well.
Great vid
Thank you
Anybody ?how many engine mount does honda crv 2004 has
Should be these 4 mounts. But that also depends on if u have manual transmission or automatic. These 4 are for an automatic car
Does the engine swing forward or back when you shift between gears?
Yeah I would assume so since it would clunk when shifting the gears.
Dont do this..makes them to stiff and vibrates the crap of the dash..sounds like a good idea but i tried it its just to stiff!...i would go with just regular silicone cheap see through type???.. see for yourself..i had to do the job twice!
I can’t say the same cause I don’t have that issue. No dash vibrations for my car or any weird noises.
what are you growing in your hoop house?
Super helpful. Thank you.
how they holding out?
So far so good.
stop paying for after-market from Amazon OEM
I have heard that the after market mounts are stiffer and allow moar vibration at idle than the OEM. What say ye?
That depends on what brand you buy them from. These ones I got were cheap so i assume they aren’t made of the best materials. But so far no issues on them
@@projectsbyj25 so would you say buying the "cheap" mounts and doing the 3M trick is basically like having factory mounts?
@@hegotgame8 I would say doing it this way would make it stronger than oem. But only time will tell really. So far it’s been working great. No off vibrations or anything.
@@projectsbyj25 okay great I am going to try this. Thanks for the video and feedback.
@@projectsbyj25 Did you find any improvement on those kind of cabin vibrations? or did it get worse because its stiffer?
What youtube acct you have for generating funds?
What do u mean? As of now I don’t generate any funds from UA-cam. Gotta got 1k subs first
I just saw black screen in this video
I tried this and my teeth almost vibrated out...to stiff i dont recomend this..save yourself time and frustration..money here is cheap but your time and frustration wasnt worth it!
Si dise que está en español porque no lo narra en español😡
I bought these as you said and as soon as I install them my car start vibrating
Caulking I believe was my down fall that I didn't do
The caulking shouldn’t have much to do with the vibrations. Although maybe u are right, my other car I install new mounts without the caulking and I did get lots of vibrations from it. Especially from the dash side. I’m trying to track it down and maybe pinpoint the rattles but maybe you are right.
I've replaced the passenger side mount due to the fact that it was resting on the body of the car but still after all that I'm getting the same vibration I'm just wonder which one to change next
@@squirtie100 check the rear and front ones also.
Yep. I have all 4 of these to change on my wife's honda element
Nice video! Will tackle this soon going to try at my shop after work might try supporting engine and lowering subframe a bit
Good luck
Same amount of mounts on the manual transmission?
No I believe the manual trans has 1 extra mounts.
Is there 3 mounts in total? If so is it front back and _?
front, back, left and right
Nice vid !