Excellent video Rocky. You are an excellent teacher, and I LOVE the slow pace that you use to explain things. It's so much easier to absorb what you are demonstrating than most of the other "hurry up" DIY videos I watch on UA-cam, that cut a lot of corners, and often leave out critically important stuff, like what kind of stuff to use on heat sink connections. Keep up the great work, including your superb camera positioning. You should be teaching at an automotive tech school.
Greeting...Edward Morton.........Thanks kindly, for your nice, and well appreciated comment, my friend.........I'm not sure, if I mentioned the following, in this particular video or not..........Those two "screws", that go through the ICM's (Ignition Control Module's), two metal, shall we say, eyelets (holes), one at either end of it, are actually, the electrical "ground" (connection), for the Ignition Control Module itself (very important), so make sure that, those two screws, and everything that they touch, are super clean, for a good (electrical) connection..........Also, keep all wiring connections, as clean as possible, as, I've even seen some "green stuff", shall we say, growing, on some of the electrical connections...lol..........Basically, I only have two camera positions, one is directly overhead, and, the other one, is off to the right side, and up a bit, from the workbench surface.........To hold the camera still, I just use some wooden 2 x 2's (probably, really measure, one and a half inches square), with a hole drilled, near one end, that allows, a, one quarter inch bolt to pass trough it, then, gets tightened into the camera's, screw-threaded, tripod mounting hole..........The other end, of the 2 x 2, just gets clamped onto, some other, shall we say, clamp-able onto, thing...lol..........If it wasn't for my 2 x 2 helpers, you'd probably be thinking, that, it was a Horror movie, that you were watching, because, it would probably be..."sHaKiNg...!!!...all over the place...lol.........Thanks again, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
FYI.... when choosing thermal paste for the ignition control module(ICM), make sure its quality made, when using the cheaper brands, the paste can actually dry up over time making the heat transfer less effective, thus killing the module sooner than later. Granted, the thermo solution that computers use between the cpu and heatsink would be ideal, but computers get nowhere near as hot as engines do under the hood while in operation or during hot soak periods during the summer time when the engine is off. I personally like to use "Dow Corning 340" silicon heat sink compound, its rated up to 350F, so it should last for years on end to help protect the ignition control module for thousands of trouble free miles, regardless if you use original equipment replacement parts or aftermarket.
Hello Rocky I notice you have not posted in a while and I hope all is well. I have been watching alot of you videos trying to figure out my ignition issue in my 95 Chevy suburban 7.4L it seems to have a weird random POP from exhaust like it is cross firing spark somewhere and only happens under lite load or lite throttle basically when the Timing is most advanced. I replaced basically everything trying to figure this out. Any ideas? Thank you sir! Great videos by the way!
Greetings...Dan 4x4..........Thanks for watching.........If there "is not" anything, shall we say "grease-like", between the bottom of the ignition control module and the pad that it mounts onto, then, what will usually happen, is that, the ignition control module will probably get way too "Hot", as in, over-heated, and it will usually become damaged internally.........There has been a case or two, whereby, the engine acts up or quits, once it warms up, then, sometimes, when the ignition control module cools down, then, it might start to work again, well, until it gets over-heated again, that is..........I only use the "heat transferring" Compound (aka, grease-like substance), that a person could buy, at a computer parts or repair shop, because, that particular "heat transferring" compound (paste), does the proper, and needed job, of "transferring" the unwanted "heat", that the ignition control module generates, when it is in use.........Don't use "die-electric" grease, because it's not designed for heat transfer at all.........So then...No "proper" heat transferring compound/paste, then, say bye-bye, to the ignition control module (usually)...and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow what a answer 👌 thank you so much, I thought this metal plate was some kind of Ground, now a cooling paste make sens to me. thanks again 🙌
Wuld those gm modules work if you aplly positive power from baterry and pulse it with only negative wia pick up coil ore vice versa wuld it still work?
Um Not for nothin but,, Why would you want to do it that way? i think his way woks for me But I'm not any kind of brain surgeon so maybe i just don't have the knowledge to know what it is you mean , by pulse with negative with power from the warp drive and reverse the dilithium crystals would that work... I guess what i'm saying is will that get my car out of the garage Mr scot?
Greetings...Jacob Jarvis........Thanks for watching.........The capacitor (condenser), on the Large distributor cap HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor, is only put there, to help filter out ignition interference noise, that might be heard on the vehicle's radio (more than likely, on the AM band, and not so much, on the FM band, I be thinkin').........If it happens to be a "bad capacitor" (condenser), that's on a points and condenser distributor (up to about 1974, just before the HEI distributor took over things), then, the engine will probably misfire quite badly, or maybe, not run or start at all....and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...The Photographer...……Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….Well, if a video is worth, continuing with, after an ad shows up, then, I be thinkin', that, the video in question, must have, something to offer after all, hopefully, that is...…….If, any of my videos, leave you with any questions at all, then, feel free, to post any questions, that you may have, under any of my videos, and, I'll do what I can, to help you out, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I hear you its distracting having to wait five seconds to skip for some shit I dont want. I don't want to meet singles near me, I just want to fix my car....Wait! Maybe one of those hot chicks they show that don't live any where me knows how work on corvettes.
Greetings...Rad Raven Adventures........I don't have a facebook page, but, not to worry..........Just post any questions or concerns, that you may have, on any of my UA-cam videos.........My UA-cam channel, is...RockysRoadshow...........Ask away...lol...and, till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, I guess this is an indicator of my own OC personality, but watching you talk about the importance of cleaning that heat sink on that filthy distributor, is disturbing to me. While you are at it, why not clean the whole damn thing. It would make me feel better...
Greetings...BuickDoc…….…Thanks for watching...…...I hear Ya alright...…….By using, an older, not cleaned-up-yet, HEI distributor, I can actually show folks, what happens to them, over time/many years, especially so, all of the parts & pieces, that are hiding under, that BIG distributor cap......……I actually, "did', rub a piece of sandpaper, over the (mechanical/centrifugal) advance weights, and auto-cam (center plate), which helped, quite a bit, to show the numbers, that were stamped-into them...…….Whenever, I see some of the super-polished car parts, I tend to call them, "fishing lures", because, just like a fish, we humans, tend to get, quite "attracted" to, those, bright and shine-ee objects (an example, being...Jewelry…!!!)...lol...…….Also, that there, "grime-ee" surface, sure does, help with, the contrast difference, where I cleaned-up (sanded), that (aluminum) "pad", that, the ignition control module, mounts onto, oh, and also, probably minimizing, any potential, lighting reflections as well (some theory that was...lol)....……Now then, let me ask you this...…..Would you rather have, a nice-n-clean HEI distributor, that "does-not" work properly, or, would you prefer to have, an HEI distributor, such as the one that you currently see, in this UA-cam video of mine, that, "does" work properly...???...lol...……..Be it, a grime-ee, HEI distributor, or, a nice-n-clean one, then, the same holds true, for the two of them, as in, having, the..."Proper Heat Transfer"...from the bottom of, the ignition control module, over to, that aluminum mounting "pad", or else, over-heating of the ignition control module, it will usually be, along with, an engine that stops running, and also, refuses to start-up, possibly, leaving Ya..."stranded-in-the-middle-of-no-where", and maybe, in a place, that, does not have any cell-phone connectivity what-so-ever...........Who knows, maybe, once, I get this particular HEI distributor, "disassembled" completely, then, I just might..."clean-er-up-a-bit"...???...and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Would it make work better? because if not then that's a half hour less time on the road But chrome and shiny engine, Ok so there's an hour or so less time cruising,But nobody is going to say man it could almost be car show pretty if only we could see inside the distributor cap,...But if it makes you happy
Rocky, A super good and through job of explaining the HEI ignition system. I really appreciate your thoughtful work !!!
Excellent video Rocky. You are an excellent teacher, and I LOVE the slow pace that you use to explain things. It's so much easier to absorb what you are demonstrating than most of the other "hurry up" DIY videos I watch on UA-cam, that cut a lot of corners, and often leave out critically important stuff, like what kind of stuff to use on heat sink connections. Keep up the great work, including your superb camera positioning. You should be teaching at an automotive tech school.
Greeting...Edward Morton.........Thanks kindly, for your nice, and well appreciated comment, my friend.........I'm not sure, if I mentioned the following, in this particular video or not..........Those two "screws", that go through the ICM's (Ignition Control Module's), two metal, shall we say, eyelets (holes), one at either end of it, are actually, the electrical "ground" (connection), for the Ignition Control Module itself (very important), so make sure that, those two screws, and everything that they touch, are super clean, for a good (electrical) connection..........Also, keep all wiring connections, as clean as possible, as, I've even seen some "green stuff", shall we say, growing, on some of the electrical connections...lol..........Basically, I only have two camera positions, one is directly overhead, and, the other one, is off to the right side, and up a bit, from the workbench surface.........To hold the camera still, I just use some wooden 2 x 2's (probably, really measure, one and a half inches square), with a hole drilled, near one end, that allows, a, one quarter inch bolt to pass trough it, then, gets tightened into the camera's, screw-threaded, tripod mounting hole..........The other end, of the 2 x 2, just gets clamped onto, some other, shall we say, clamp-able onto, thing...lol..........If it wasn't for my 2 x 2 helpers, you'd probably be thinking, that, it was a Horror movie, that you were watching, because, it would probably be..."sHaKiNg...!!!...all over the place...lol.........Thanks again, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
FYI.... when choosing thermal paste for the ignition control module(ICM), make sure its quality made, when using the cheaper brands, the paste can actually dry up over time making the heat transfer less effective, thus killing the module sooner than later. Granted, the thermo solution that computers use between the cpu and heatsink would be ideal, but computers get nowhere near as hot as engines do under the hood while in operation or during hot soak periods during the summer time when the engine is off. I personally like to use "Dow Corning 340" silicon heat sink compound, its rated up to 350F, so it should last for years on end to help protect the ignition control module for thousands of trouble free miles, regardless if you use original equipment replacement parts or aftermarket.
Good to know I was going to use Artic blast but now gonna try the Dow 340 on my chevy hei module. But wow it is pricy lol
I Liked this video He's like a shop class reacher, Without the you screwed up once to many times infamous device known by "Shop Paddle"
Well done sir 👏 👍
Great job
Buy matched ICM and coil -good advice.
Hey Rocky. You still making videos? how ya been?
Hello Rocky I notice you have not posted in a while and I hope all is well. I have been watching alot of you videos trying to figure out my ignition issue in my 95 Chevy suburban 7.4L it seems to have a weird random POP from exhaust like it is cross firing spark somewhere and only happens under lite load or lite throttle basically when the Timing is most advanced. I replaced basically everything trying to figure this out. Any ideas? Thank you sir! Great videos by the way!
Thanks 👍 and what about if there no grease or stuff at all?
Greetings...Dan 4x4..........Thanks for watching.........If there "is not" anything, shall we say "grease-like", between the bottom of the ignition control module and the pad that it mounts onto, then, what will usually happen, is that, the ignition control module will probably get way too "Hot", as in, over-heated, and it will usually become damaged internally.........There has been a case or two, whereby, the engine acts up or quits, once it warms up, then, sometimes, when the ignition control module cools down, then, it might start to work again, well, until it gets over-heated again, that is..........I only use the "heat transferring" Compound (aka, grease-like substance), that a person could buy, at a computer parts or repair shop, because, that particular "heat transferring" compound (paste), does the proper, and needed job, of "transferring" the unwanted "heat", that the ignition control module generates, when it is in use.........Don't use "die-electric" grease, because it's not designed for heat transfer at all.........So then...No "proper" heat transferring compound/paste, then, say bye-bye, to the ignition control module (usually)...and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow what a answer 👌 thank you so much, I thought this metal plate was some kind of Ground, now a cooling paste make sens to me. thanks again 🙌
Wuld those gm modules work if you aplly positive power from baterry and pulse it with only negative wia pick up coil ore vice versa wuld it still work?
Um Not for nothin but,, Why would you want to do it that way? i think his way woks for me But I'm not any kind of brain surgeon so maybe i just don't have the knowledge to know what it is you mean , by pulse with negative with power from the warp drive and reverse the dilithium crystals would that work... I guess what i'm saying is will that get my car out of the garage Mr scot?
What happens when u have a bad capacitor
Only runs when the starter is engaged
Greetings...Jacob Jarvis........Thanks for watching.........The capacitor (condenser), on the Large distributor cap HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor, is only put there, to help filter out ignition interference noise, that might be heard on the vehicle's radio (more than likely, on the AM band, and not so much, on the FM band, I be thinkin').........If it happens to be a "bad capacitor" (condenser), that's on a points and condenser distributor (up to about 1974, just before the HEI distributor took over things), then, the engine will probably misfire quite badly, or maybe, not run or start at all....and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
It burns when you pee.
Great video,but, not liking all the interruptions with ads!
Greetings...The Photographer...……Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….Well, if a video is worth, continuing with, after an ad shows up, then, I be thinkin', that, the video in question, must have, something to offer after all, hopefully, that is...…….If, any of my videos, leave you with any questions at all, then, feel free, to post any questions, that you may have, under any of my videos, and, I'll do what I can, to help you out, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I hear you its distracting having to wait five seconds to skip for some shit I dont want. I don't want to meet singles near me, I just want to fix my car....Wait! Maybe one of those hot chicks they show that don't live any where me knows how work on corvettes.
Do you have a facebook page i have a couple questions (:
Greetings...Rad Raven Adventures........I don't have a facebook page, but, not to worry..........Just post any questions or concerns, that you may have, on any of my UA-cam videos.........My UA-cam channel, is...RockysRoadshow...........Ask away...lol...and, till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, I guess this is an indicator of my own OC personality, but watching you talk about the importance of cleaning that heat sink on that filthy distributor, is disturbing to me. While you are at it, why not clean the whole damn thing. It would make me feel better...
Greetings...BuickDoc…….…Thanks for watching...…...I hear Ya alright...…….By using, an older, not cleaned-up-yet, HEI distributor, I can actually show folks, what happens to them, over time/many years, especially so, all of the parts & pieces, that are hiding under, that BIG distributor cap......……I actually, "did', rub a piece of sandpaper, over the (mechanical/centrifugal) advance weights, and auto-cam (center plate), which helped, quite a bit, to show the numbers, that were stamped-into them...…….Whenever, I see some of the super-polished car parts, I tend to call them, "fishing lures", because, just like a fish, we humans, tend to get, quite "attracted" to, those, bright and shine-ee objects (an example, being...Jewelry…!!!)...lol...…….Also, that there, "grime-ee" surface, sure does, help with, the contrast difference, where I cleaned-up (sanded), that (aluminum) "pad", that, the ignition control module, mounts onto, oh, and also, probably minimizing, any potential, lighting reflections as well (some theory that was...lol)....……Now then, let me ask you this...…..Would you rather have, a nice-n-clean HEI distributor, that "does-not" work properly, or, would you prefer to have, an HEI distributor, such as the one that you currently see, in this UA-cam video of mine, that, "does" work properly...???...lol...……..Be it, a grime-ee, HEI distributor, or, a nice-n-clean one, then, the same holds true, for the two of them, as in, having, the..."Proper Heat Transfer"...from the bottom of, the ignition control module, over to, that aluminum mounting "pad", or else, over-heating of the ignition control module, it will usually be, along with, an engine that stops running, and also, refuses to start-up, possibly, leaving Ya..."stranded-in-the-middle-of-no-where", and maybe, in a place, that, does not have any cell-phone connectivity what-so-ever...........Who knows, maybe, once, I get this particular HEI distributor, "disassembled" completely, then, I just might..."clean-er-up-a-bit"...???...and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Would it make work better? because if not then that's a half hour less time on the road But chrome and shiny engine, Ok so there's an hour or so less time cruising,But nobody is going to say man it could almost be car show pretty if only we could see inside the distributor cap,...But if it makes you happy