I’ve done a few of those coolant pipes behind the engine. Learned the hard way that it pays to pull off the manifold since that’s the only way to make sure the oring seats correctly in the back of the pump. I also use the dielectric grease since without that it’s impossible
Hello Don and Jan, this is QuickSilver. I just did this based on this video. It was actually easier than I thought. 1) Please use MINI parts. The aftermarket housing I used had a bad sensor so I had to use the old one. 2) Please consider changing the tube, the design makes it a dicey affair for an easy leak. I'm not so much afraid of this car now after getting in there.
Congratulations on the great video !!!!I'm a mechanic and I'm in Brazil. It was a pleasure to find this channel with this content illustrating this service. I'm doing the same maintenance on a Mini Cooper too
Thanks for the video. You helped me make a big decision. With the work involved, I've decided to cut my losses and sell the car as is. My mini is an endless failure of plastic parts and major parts. Now my thermostat housing is cracked in the same spot you pointed out. I'm tired of tearing everything apart on this car to get to something. Normal cars have 1 hose and 2 bolts for the thermostat and it's super easy to do. After seeing your video, I'm done wasting my time and money until the next part fails.
Espinoza Novak I just spent $1k to get mine done on my 09 MCS. The first 5 or 6 years was relatively inexpensive to operate, especially since I only drive 3500 miles a year. The last 3 costs have started to really climb.
So helpful. Could not have done this without this video. I found cheap version of the hose clamp tool on Amazon. Essential. Hardest part of the job was getting the wire harness off the pipe coming from pump. I could not get the one closest to the pump. I had to loosen the intake manifold and reach in to clip it. Bleeding took several attempts, run the car for a bit, loosen the bleeder screw to release air. Repeat. Mine is r56 n18
Great video thanks for putting it together. Just did this repair myself to fix the p0597 OBD code. Also decided to go ahead and take recommendation to replace the water pipe on mine when i did it. Pain in the ass to get to.. added about 1.5 hours to my job. The end of the pipe and its o-ring was broken off in the water pump outlet flange! Hard to get to but this video helped immensely. Took off the passenger side wheel to access from below (barely could fit arm and hand through to feel inside the water pump and pull the damn things out!)
Hi mate.... thanks very much for uploading this video... i just changed mine on my 2010 clubby s. took me around 3 hrs but i got there finally. 😄 cheers dude.
Just did my thermostat housing + cross pipe on my R57. This video was a great help, with a particular props for marking ALL of the electrical connectors that you unplug, and for the cable-connected pipe clamp pliers. BTW, they're available for $19ish on Amazon - not pro-grade, but good enough for this shade tree mechanic!
Zaf Mahmood Car Water Pipe Hose Removal Plier Clamp Installation Tool Clip for VW Audi VAG1921 www.amazon.com/dp/B01N54Z6TW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_eYO3Ab0J85NQF
THANKS!!!!!!! Perfect, easy to understand and along with the tips you provided video is excellent. After seeing this anyone with some mechancial experience should be able to accomplish this fix. Thank you! with respect, Tim
Luckily the a clamp from the thermostats to back pipe released and I have enough room to wiggle everything out without having to pull the pipe off. The bleeding process was new to me with the bleeder valve but its easy after you figure it out. Thanks for the video!
Great video, I did mine using your advice here. The only thing I used to help me was, very long nose pliers for the clip, I could see it through the inlet manifold gap and just eased it on, another tip is, tie some string to it, because when it pings off (and it does) you’ll spend a long time looking for it in the tight engine bay. Then just cut it off when done.
Thanks for the video! On the Citroen DS3 (similar) I checked and can see that the two electrical connectors can't be mixed up, they look the same but have different guide slots arrangements specific to each socket. (Incase you forget to mark them)!
Looking at some of the previous comments, I noticed some of us struggled with pulling out the straight pipe. I used a long screwdriver as a lever to generate an out-force near the thermostat-end of the straight pipe. Maybe this force could also be generated with a pick (with a hooked end) fitted into one of those "feet" located along on the tube's length. I also rocked the tube back and forth. In other words.....it may take SURPRISING force to liberate the tube so be prepared to find a creative way to generate this out-force. I placed horses, pillows and plywood and cardboard, before my car and over the engine so I could lay on my stomach directly on top of the engine comfortably/indefinitely so I could slide my sweating hands and arms slowly into TIGHT deep deep places. Be sure to clear the junk out of the mouth of the pump, after the pipe "breaks" free. I was able to access and pull out the pipe remnants using a mirror and picks from the top. I took multiple cell phone pictures during disassembly in case assembly gets confusing. Today sometime I will find out if I was 100% successful as today is the reassemble and test day.
I'd add on thing to this job that I found useful - if you have a 33mm impact socket, a deep one, it will fit nicely into the water tube and gives you something to grab onto to push it into the water pump housing with enough force! It won't damage the delicate end of the water pipe (if the socket has some slight graduation on the wrench-end) and it won't fall anywhere that you can't easily get to.
What thermostat housing are you putting in that mini and what year is it? Thank you for the video I’m watching it even though I’m not going to install my own this is my first big thing that’s happened to mini I can see coolant and transmission it is not bad yet it’s not on the ground but I’m not taking any chances
my 2010 mini cooper s clubman's check engine came up over the weekend on Sunday. Since then, I have not driven my car. I noticed it is not running bad or anything but as a precaution. I do not want to to drive my car in case it worsens. I ran my obd scanner and gave me a 2EE5 error code for the thermostat. could this be why my check engine light turned on? I have other error codes, but have had them in the past and did not trigger the check engine light.
Great video. After I removed the thermostat, the water pipe is still stuck. Looking at the new pipe, it appears there are three spots where a clip may be used to secure the pipe. Can you confirm whether there is anything else that needs to be removed, such as a clip? If so, how do I remove those clips? After a new pipe is inserted, how do I put the clips back on?
I am familiar with the clip on the housing end as showing in 11:31 in the video. I read online that there are some wiring harnesses which are attached to the water pipe. In addition, I see three eyelets on the body of the water pipe so I suspect there may be additional clips to allow some wiring harnesses to be attached to the pipe. Can you confirm what other clips, if any, needed to be removed before extracting the water pipe? It would be useful also if you have either a video or good instructions on how to remove the clips. I prefer not have to remove the intake manifold in order to get access to the water pipe.
Yes, there is at least one wiring harness clipped to my water pipe. My car came to me used so I don't know what is stock or not. You can easily unclip the clip once you remove the thermostat by reaching in there and feeling around.
KD Tools - but that particular model is discontinued now: toolfactor.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=22598&language=en¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiA1O3RBRBHEiwAq5fD_CKgXni2_hgw2qlLGCnN_yFvjgC1OU5N5svtXfSi7m6EiGSoiBB4CRoC6zkQAvD_BwE There are similar styles still available that will do the same thing.
I have just bought a Mini Cooper 2004 1.6 petrol, it's started to overheat and dumped all of its coolant. After bleeding the cooling system it seemed okay although after taking it for another drive I came home parked up and it's dumped something else all over my drive, not oil or coolant as these were both okay. Now coming out this morning and running it for 10 minutes the temp gauge got to 90degress while sitting idly (I have the chrono package so normal running temp) but then all of sudden I see smoke coming out of the bonnet again, so I switch it all off and have left it. Any advice?
top off the fluids, park the car, let it run until it starts to overheat with the bonnet up and first determine if it's steam or smoke you're seeing. then, try to tell where on the engine it's coming from.
@@JodBronson WHEN I CHANGE THE CAM CHAIN, DO I NEED TO RESET THE VANOS SYSTEM WITH A EXPENSIVE OBD2 TOOL, OR WILL THE CAR WORK AFTER NEW CHAIN REPLACED WITHOUT THE RESETING??? PLEASE ANSWER IM PISSED HERE.
Nice video. I'm not able to remove the coolant pipe from the back of the water pump though. Too bad for me, the video shows the part falling out. I tried everything except cutting the pipe out. It WILL NOT come out! i can get a pair pliers and Vise grips on the pipe behind the water pump, but it won't turn in the hole. Is the plastic part and O-ring melted in the jacket? Has anyone run into this? This 2 hour job is turning into nightmare. Thanks,
Yeah, it sounds as though the tube and o-ring are melted onto the back of the water pump. Nothing to do but to try and pull it off carefully. A new pipe may be in order as the end may be damaged that fits into the pump. Good luck with it.
Same problem with my 2009 cooper clubman. I finally had to pull the right front tire to get to the coolant pipe. I had to heat up a pry bar and melt a notch in the coolant pipe, then I tapped it out (away from the water pump) with a hammer and the pry bar. It finally came out with the tube cracking in a few places. I could then pull it out from the thermostat side. The end that was in the water pump was ruined of course, and it seemed it had become almost melted in there. The car hadn't overheated, I just noticed a leak and decided to do the job myself. The video helped a lot, except for the coolant pipe part.
How much would you charge for this job and a total system flush my supervisors daughter put the wrong coolant inside the vehicle or mini Cooper which brings me to another conclusion why are you adding coolant if the system is sealed and will never leak if there’s no problem I’m thinking that the housing is cracked just like this one that’s why she was adding unfortunately it’s going to cost a lot of money to get this repaired if sent somewhere that’s why I need a quote-because I’m doing it myself for him.
@@minimania ,you have made the bleed in the thermostatic valve before putting the additive, or also made after the additive to the cooling system, thank you.
I replaced this part myself on my 08 cooper s and now I have a p0118 cel that I can't get rid of....I've read numerous forums and many people have had the same problem but haven't found a solution.....any help or suggestions?
+Mini Mania The two sensors on the housing came brand new with the thermostat housing....the top one that is held in place by a u-clip and the lower one that is actually a part of the housing itself.....
My local dealer wants $1,100 total for the job. But I am certain they would have found something else that needed fixing. But seriously this is a couple hours job, easy.
my dealer said $1500. Car blue book is only $3000 and I only got 49K miles. I've replaced thermostats and the housing on normal cars for $20 and 1/2 hour of my time. Mini is endless absurd engineering designed to fail. 3 recalls on engine parts. Timing chain housing (failed in 6 months), turbo cooling fan, High pressure fuel pump (also failed). I can't list all the stuff on this car that has failed.
Lea Morgan It was actually great footage. At 14:26 you can in fact see the tiny 1/8 inch long piece of the brittle old broken pipe that broke inside the housing on the back side. Look real close at the mirror. I saw it
I’ve done a few of those coolant pipes behind the engine. Learned the hard way that it pays to pull off the manifold since that’s the only way to make sure the oring seats correctly in the back of the pump. I also use the dielectric grease since without that it’s impossible
Hello Don and Jan, this is QuickSilver.
I just did this based on this video. It was actually easier than I thought.
1) Please use MINI parts. The aftermarket housing I used had a bad sensor so I had to use the old one.
2) Please consider changing the tube, the design makes it a dicey affair for an easy leak.
I'm not so much afraid of this car now after getting in there.
Can’t wait to have that feeling!
Congratulations on the great video !!!!I'm a mechanic and I'm in Brazil. It was a pleasure to find this channel with this content illustrating this service. I'm doing the same maintenance on a Mini Cooper too
Thanks for the video. You helped me make a big decision. With the work involved, I've decided to cut my losses and sell the car as is. My mini is an endless failure of plastic parts and major parts. Now my thermostat housing is cracked in the same spot you pointed out. I'm tired of tearing everything apart on this car to get to something. Normal cars have 1 hose and 2 bolts for the thermostat and it's super easy to do. After seeing your video, I'm done wasting my time and money until the next part fails.
Espinoza Novak I just spent $1k to get mine done on my 09 MCS. The first 5 or 6 years was relatively inexpensive to operate, especially since I only drive 3500 miles a year. The last 3 costs have started to really climb.
Thank you! I was expecting to take off my intake and this video gave me the knowledge & confidence to skip that step.
Just Did one of these myself. That's the difference between a Pro and a DIY. Should have consulted the video first and saved a lot of frustration!
So helpful. Could not have done this without this video. I found cheap version of the hose clamp tool on Amazon. Essential. Hardest part of the job was getting the wire harness off the pipe coming from pump. I could not get the one closest to the pump. I had to loosen the intake manifold and reach in to clip it. Bleeding took several attempts, run the car for a bit, loosen the bleeder screw to release air. Repeat. Mine is r56 n18
Great video thanks for putting it together. Just did this repair myself to fix the p0597 OBD code. Also decided to go ahead and take recommendation to replace the water pipe on mine when i did it. Pain in the ass to get to.. added about 1.5 hours to my job. The end of the pipe and its o-ring was broken off in the water pump outlet flange! Hard to get to but this video helped immensely. Took off the passenger side wheel to access from below (barely could fit arm and hand through to feel inside the water pump and pull the damn things out!)
Pause @ 11:45 - Get a Rubber Hose and mod/replace it. You will never have to worry about it ever again !!!
It has to be the rigid pipe. A rubber hose will not stay in the water pump.
@@michaelking42 - LOL. Oh boy !!!
Hi mate.... thanks very much for uploading this video... i just changed mine on my 2010 clubby s. took me around 3 hrs but i got there finally. 😄 cheers dude.
Just did my thermostat housing + cross pipe on my R57. This video was a great help, with a particular props for marking ALL of the electrical connectors that you unplug, and for the cable-connected pipe clamp pliers. BTW, they're available for $19ish on Amazon - not pro-grade, but good enough for this shade tree mechanic!
Glad to help, Bill!
Bill Hansley wats the best way remobe the pipe?
link to this would be great " cable-connected pipe clamp pliers"
Zaf Mahmood Car Water Pipe Hose Removal Plier Clamp Installation Tool Clip for VW Audi VAG1921 www.amazon.com/dp/B01N54Z6TW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_eYO3Ab0J85NQF
THANKS!!!!!!! Perfect, easy to understand and along with the tips you provided video is excellent. After seeing this anyone with some mechancial experience should be able to accomplish this fix. Thank you! with respect, Tim
Luckily the a clamp from the thermostats to back pipe released and I have enough room to wiggle everything out without having to pull the pipe off. The bleeding process was new to me with the bleeder valve but its easy after you figure it out. Thanks for the video!
Great video, I did mine using your advice here. The only thing I used to help me was, very long nose pliers for the clip, I could see it through the inlet manifold gap and just eased it on, another tip is, tie some string to it, because when it pings off (and it does) you’ll spend a long time looking for it in the tight engine bay. Then just cut it off when done.
Thank you for making this, it's very informative.
Thanks for the video! On the Citroen DS3 (similar) I checked and can see that the two electrical connectors can't be mixed up, they look the same but have different guide slots arrangements specific to each socket. (Incase you forget to mark them)!
Looking at some of the previous comments, I noticed some of us struggled with pulling out the straight pipe. I used a long screwdriver as a lever to generate an out-force near the thermostat-end of the straight pipe. Maybe this force could also be generated with a pick (with a hooked end) fitted into one of those "feet" located along on the tube's length. I also rocked the tube back and forth. In other words.....it may take SURPRISING force to liberate the tube so be prepared to find a creative way to generate this out-force. I placed horses, pillows and plywood and cardboard, before my car and over the engine so I could lay on my stomach directly on top of the engine comfortably/indefinitely so I could slide my sweating hands and arms slowly into TIGHT deep deep places. Be sure to clear the junk out of the mouth of the pump, after the pipe "breaks" free. I was able to access and pull out the pipe remnants using a mirror and picks from the top. I took multiple cell phone pictures during disassembly in case assembly gets confusing. Today sometime I will find out if I was 100% successful as today is the reassemble and test day.
I'd add on thing to this job that I found useful - if you have a 33mm impact socket, a deep one, it will fit nicely into the water tube and gives you something to grab onto to push it into the water pump housing with enough force! It won't damage the delicate end of the water pipe (if the socket has some slight graduation on the wrench-end) and it won't fall anywhere that you can't easily get to.
Scott good tip, thank you. I've been struggling getting my pipe in and will look into the socket; I may have one that fits too.
fantastic! thank you for the great video!
I’ve got 140.000km on my R56S and changed the thermostat housing for 3-4 times. What’s the case? Why is this part failing so often?
Thanks for this. Going to replace all with normal (high end) hose clamps. Not going to fight getting those back on...
Great video thanks for posting
Good video but you could’ve saved a lot of time taking out the intake manifold. It’s 5 nuts 13 mm then one 10 mm mounting bolt on the left side.
I think that’s the wrong type of coolant. Why didn’t the thermostat get replaced when you did the water pump?
What thermostat housing are you putting in that mini and what year is it? Thank you for the video I’m watching it even though I’m not going to install my own this is my first big thing that’s happened to mini I can see coolant and transmission it is not bad yet it’s not on the ground but I’m not taking any chances
Been a few years now, so I can't recall what specific year this is but the procedure on the Gen 2's should all be really similar.
Great job guys!
Is it a possibility the classic engine and gearbox with the remote gearbox shift rod can fit in the generation 2 body ?.
my 2010 mini cooper s clubman's check engine came up over the weekend on Sunday. Since then, I have not driven my car. I noticed it is not running bad or anything but as a precaution. I do not want to to drive my car in case it worsens. I ran my obd scanner and gave me a 2EE5 error code for the thermostat. could this be why my check engine light turned on?
I have other error codes, but have had them in the past and did not trigger the check engine light.
Can I ask the bottom pipe from dictator connect to the top of the thermostat?
Great video. After I removed the thermostat, the water pipe is still stuck. Looking at the new pipe, it appears there are three spots where a clip may be used to secure the pipe. Can you confirm whether there is anything else that needs to be removed, such as a clip? If so, how do I remove those clips? After a new pipe is inserted, how do I put the clips back on?
There is a clip on the housing end - not the water pump end. The water pump end has an o-ring only. Fast forward to 11:31 in the video to see it.
I am familiar with the clip on the housing end as showing in 11:31 in the video. I read online that there are some wiring harnesses which are attached to the water pipe. In addition, I see three eyelets on the body of the water pipe so I suspect there may be additional clips to allow some wiring harnesses to be attached to the pipe.
Can you confirm what other clips, if any, needed to be removed before extracting the water pipe? It would be useful also if you have either a video or good instructions on how to remove the clips.
I prefer not have to remove the intake manifold in order to get access to the water pipe.
Blue Penn Cameras did you have to remove the intake maninfold or did u end up doing it like in the this video?
Yes, there is at least one wiring harness clipped to my water pipe. My car came to me used so I don't know what is stock or not. You can easily unclip the clip once you remove the thermostat by reaching in there and feeling around.
No need to remove the intake manifold at all. I thought I would have to also but no need.
You made it look so easy.Perfection and clarity is what I liked.Tou mentioned a tool from KP TOOLS,What is the technical name for it,zaf
KD Tools - but that particular model is discontinued now: toolfactor.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=22598&language=en¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiA1O3RBRBHEiwAq5fD_CKgXni2_hgw2qlLGCnN_yFvjgC1OU5N5svtXfSi7m6EiGSoiBB4CRoC6zkQAvD_BwE
There are similar styles still available that will do the same thing.
Thank you
The three nuts on the Thermostat housing,do you know how much torgue is applied when tightening?
Any chance of doing the water pump video?
I have just bought a Mini Cooper 2004 1.6 petrol, it's started to overheat and dumped all of its coolant. After bleeding the cooling system it seemed okay although after taking it for another drive I came home parked up and it's dumped something else all over my drive, not oil or coolant as these were both okay. Now coming out this morning and running it for 10 minutes the temp gauge got to 90degress while sitting idly (I have the chrono package so normal running temp) but then all of sudden I see smoke coming out of the bonnet again, so I switch it all off and have left it. Any advice?
top off the fluids, park the car, let it run until it starts to overheat with the bonnet up and first determine if it's steam or smoke you're seeing. then, try to tell where on the engine it's coming from.
What a job!
Is this basicly same engine as 1.6VTI in Peugeot, same assembly and same ways to get it out?
Same engine but there is no space like on the mini. I've just done mine today on a ds3. Awfull job, geting clip on the bypass tube is a joke
@@lewisfullard87 Yep, gonna do it next week and i know its gonna be hell.
Same Engine and my Dad's Honda have the same Engine too. They changed few things here and there, but the 1.6L 4Cyl mostly the same.
@@JodBronson WHEN I CHANGE THE CAM CHAIN, DO I NEED TO RESET THE VANOS SYSTEM WITH A EXPENSIVE OBD2 TOOL, OR WILL THE CAR WORK AFTER NEW CHAIN REPLACED WITHOUT THE RESETING??? PLEASE ANSWER IM PISSED HERE.
Love how the dude with the camera keeps saying "we" . Like he did something🤣
“We”. Does he have a mouse in his pocket?
Hello, if the thermostat fails, can it cause the breakage of the injection or return hose?
You'll want to ask a mechanic - Mini Mania isn't a shop but we do sell parts.
Very helpful!!!
How long it took you to change the thermostat housing ?
1.5 hours, maybe?
so use NO sort of thread sealants on the bolts like loctite ?
Nice video. I'm not able to remove the coolant pipe from the back of the water pump though. Too bad for me, the video shows the part falling out. I tried everything except cutting the pipe out. It WILL NOT come out! i can get a pair pliers and Vise grips on the pipe behind the water pump, but it won't turn in the hole. Is the plastic part and O-ring melted in the jacket? Has anyone run into this? This 2 hour job is turning into nightmare.
Thanks,
Yeah, it sounds as though the tube and o-ring are melted onto the back of the water pump. Nothing to do but to try and pull it off carefully. A new pipe may be in order as the end may be damaged that fits into the pump. Good luck with it.
Same problem with my 2009 cooper clubman. I finally had to pull the right front tire to get to the coolant pipe. I had to heat up a pry bar and melt a notch in the coolant pipe, then I tapped it out (away from the water pump) with a hammer and the pry bar. It finally came out with the tube cracking in a few places. I could then pull it out from the thermostat side. The end that was in the water pump was ruined of course, and it seemed it had become almost melted in there. The car hadn't overheated, I just noticed a leak and decided to do the job myself. The video helped a lot, except for the coolant pipe part.
whats the best way to remove the pipe that goes from the pump to the thermostat ? mine is leaking
Well, you can do it from the water pump end or remove the thermostat like we do in the video - note the clip that holds it onto the thermostat.
Mini Mania the clip ? so itll have to be from the thermostat huh
It can be done from either end. If you remove the water pump then you shouldn't need to remove the clip since it's at the thermostat end.
This may sound crazy, but would it be necessary to cover parts of the housing with jb weld just to prevent future overheating and cracking?
How much would you charge for this job and a total system flush my supervisors daughter put the wrong coolant inside the vehicle or mini Cooper which brings me to another conclusion why are you adding coolant if the system is sealed and will never leak if there’s no problem I’m thinking that the housing is cracked just like this one that’s why she was adding unfortunately it’s going to cost a lot of money to get this repaired if sent somewhere that’s why I need a quote-because I’m doing it myself for him.
Hi Rodney - We're not a shop - we sell the parts only. You'll need to call a shop to a quote.
@@minimania ,you have made the bleed in the thermostatic valve before putting the additive, or also made after the additive to the cooling system, thank you.
@@minimania ,saludos del aca del México
Saludos aca del México ,viva el chapo.....
W
@@velmuruganvelmurugan3715 ,ok gracias
omg, green coolant!!! ahhhh!!!
No kidding!!!! I can’t believe it. Nobody do that!!
2EE1 fault code,what does it mean brother help me :(
I was just told by my a mechanic this part had to be replaced on my gen 2 thats why i came here
I replaced this part myself on my 08 cooper s and now I have a p0118 cel that I can't get rid of....I've read numerous forums and many people have had the same problem but haven't found a solution.....any help or suggestions?
+Mario Wiggins Not sure. Did you replace the sensor?
+Mini Mania The two sensors on the housing came brand new with the thermostat housing....the top one that is held in place by a u-clip and the lower one that is actually a part of the housing itself.....
Let me guess, you used aftermarket housing. Re use your old sensor.
how much is the labor $$$ for this?
Varies by shop but I would guess it bills at least three hours plus parts.
My local dealer wants $1,100 total for the job. But I am certain they would have found something else that needed fixing. But seriously this is a couple hours job, easy.
my dealer said $1500. Car blue book is only $3000 and I only got 49K miles. I've replaced thermostats and the housing on normal cars for $20 and 1/2 hour of my time. Mini is endless absurd engineering designed to fail. 3 recalls on engine parts. Timing chain housing (failed in 6 months), turbo cooling fan, High pressure fuel pump (also failed). I can't list all the stuff on this car that has failed.
@@espinozanovak831 ,$1500 libras esterlinas o dólares american ,Saludos aca del México .
Hi Wots that pipe called Wots in the block
Where are you guys?
Nevada City, California - about an hour north of Sacramento in the lovely Sierra Nevada Foothills.
I bought the tool for 120$well worth
could anyone actually SEE?
By
It's as ezy and drinking water to do the mini turmastad only if they sale u the right turmastad that feets ezy lol
Yet another reason to walk away from these garbage cars. I'd like to set this lemon of mine ablaze.
It doesn't make any sense the stupid thermostat like it is built
Why the stupid makers of mini coopers made the thermostat like it is????
Very poor camera work!!!!
I guess my film school degree is for naught :-(
Lea Morgan
It was actually great footage. At 14:26 you can in fact see the tiny 1/8 inch long piece of the brittle old broken pipe that broke inside the housing on the back side. Look real close at the mirror. I saw it