The Most Powerful Two Stroke Ever - Are you Reedy?
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Testing thinner reeds in isolation, printer trouble, grinding a new piston ring ++
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This is the road to the most powerful two stroke (relative to cc) ever. Aiming for 30+hp from 50cc.
Lofty goal!
Here's a few key points:
- 100% bore width single exhaust port, no bridges, non. This leads to unrivaled blowdown specific time area.
- What should be excellent transfer duct geometry, large radius on inner walls to minimize flow separation, constant side wall angles for control, large duct volume for gentle "delivery"
- Valveless tuned length intake with nitromethanol injection, aimed at the transfer inlets.
- Ridiculous crankcase volume, no piston pumping here, it's all about resonance!
- Tuned pipe, tuned crankcase, tuned intake, tuned everything, resonance!
To be able to run such an monstrosity of an exhaust port without instant catastrophic failure there's a special two-piece piston with a retained piston ring(thanks Mark Atkinson). It has no holes in the skirt either, no short circuiting between the transfers and the exhaust.
I've designed the whole thing from scratch.
3D printed, cast(lost PLA), and "Nikasil" plated the cylinder myself in my garage. Designed the case and pipe for it. I've received lots of help from the community with things I haven't been able to do myself(lack of machinery and/or skill)
Especially machining, until recently I didn't even own a lathe.
Thank you guys, you're the best!
I've designed and built a landspeed bike for the engine, plan is to set a new class record at Bonneville.
Thanks for following the adventure, and fear not, I've already got plans for the next project - Symmetric transfers, four exhaust ports, two rotary valves(but not where you think they'll be), forced induction, no need for expansion chamber(!) ++
Many years of two stroke madness up ahead!
Easy is not worth anything
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Everything is fine, I don't need to hear a running engine each time... just great to get more information..
Perfection 👌🏼(69)
I remember that you asked us about ads a while back. You still have almost none. I doubt that many people would be mad about it, but it would help you out big time
I'll contribute to keep the ads away, in fact I'm going to donate shortly.
The only way we fail is by giving up. Ben franklin found 10000 ways not to make a light bulb. Keep up the good work man. Love the videos
Ben franklin found 10000 ways not to make a light bulb and 0 ways to make it.
Ben Franklin.........light bulb??
Interesting.....
@@ratnashekhar1740 🤣🤣 Thomas Edison. My bad, in my defense ive gotten about 9 hours of sleep in the last 3 days.
@@markcargill1185 well you're right to some point, invention of a light bulb involves probably hundreds of people experimenting over a hundred years to get working electric light. and it started with ben franklin.
@@dirkdiggler9082 You are experimenting with home-made/school-made light bulbs?
Remember the first CR Honda went like hell, but was a total pig to start, warm up and even get it off the line and that was the final product.
You got this!
@arborcidal maniac So was it a 4 cyl or 2 cyl...and what valves are you talking about...?!
@@manoo422 I think he means 4 stroke 2 cylinder 50cc :)
@arborcidal maniac
Honda's 22,000 RPM 50cc twin was a four stroke.
Honda was absolutely hell bent to compete or beat two strokes with a 4 cycle engine, and they did... for a while.
Considering this thing has as much in common with a 2-stoke motorcycle engine has it has in common with a jet engine, you might have to start it like a jet engine. Use some sort of blower to provide positive pressure during start up. Also, a higher RPM starter might be helpful. And maybe a pre-heat using an external heat source.
Doesn't have to be easy, just has to be possible!
You might be on to something here
Agree with the heat, not so much with pressure at the moment since this is a carb setup right now. Later the resonating intake could benefit greatly from ram air scoop or something.
And by heat I would say something in the line of 35-45c ish could make a difference during startup. Also timing may be a little too advanced, if only by a hair.
@@dannistjana901 Think leaf blower (but smaller, maybe hair drier would be sufficient for this small of engine) used only for startup to get the air flowing at low pressure. The issue here is that the engine is a poor pump. Choking the carb for startup only makes it worse.
Actually, I think I'd be tempted to use venturi powered suction on the exhaust vs. blowing through the carb for the reasons you alluded too. Temptation to hook a shop vac up is great, but that sounds a little too much like a bomb to me. Lol.
@@bradley3549 Haha you are kinda(or maybe completely) right! Somehow was not thinking about also(or just) heating up the combustion air going into the engine. Actually got a stubborn diesel engine started with a hair dryer years ago.
Guess I was thinking of on track situations where there isn't a guy with a fabulous hairdo around lol.
Also google "woman vacuums gasoline" for laughs! XD
@@dannistjana901 Just a quick FYI, if you also pressurize the internals of the carburetor it will still work in a turbo style situation. Think carburetor inside the pressurized air box...
once the biggest problem (not working at all) is solved you are hit by a tsunami of other problems. love this show keep it up!
You don’t fail by screwing up
You fail by giving up
“never fail, learn or win”
Pretty sure if you screwed up you failed lol nice speech tho
No parts, No tools, No plan! Maybe one day you’ll get two brain cells to rub together and be able to start a fire
I can definitely understand the fact that being broke and trying to do research and development is extremely difficult but it is those who persever through being broke and I still come out with good results that changed the world my videos depict not a lot of budget but you have to get creative if you're broke. And genius is as genius does.
Awesome video.
P.s. my Diecycle still needs a powerful engine, so keep at it!
Straight Line Cycles bro I just found ur comment ur the dude who built the upside down street bike kx
@@adrianpoptart1880 yes sir, just priced an absolute engine rebuild kit, with every single piece,800, i could definitely use a sponsorship too, lol
My best advice I can give my two-stroke friend is to read or listen to one book.... It changed me and helped me become more productive and successful... Eat that frog by Brian Tracy. Reading it as a wind down or listen to it while building this beautiful machine... Best of luck and keep sending.
Hello my friend, im a professional programmer and eletronics enthusiast.... I would like to offer a collaboration with a custom eletronic fuel injection, and timing system
Get this on top!
what controller you plan to use?
@@Timsturbs the Female kind.
@@Timsturbs i would use an arduino for the ease, but we could go up to fpgas if needed
Rafael micro squirt or speeduino are both very good options
If it was easy mate everyone would be doing it. Keep up the good work
The project looks like it's evolving towards rotary engine designs fast.
Thanks for the quality content, keep up the good work!
Be excited to see how much power this thing does make when its all done.
I'm slowly keeping up with your vids, and I have to say, that thumbnail is a god damned piece of art... Nice job!
Thanks 😁
most of my projects are held together with jb weld, it is such a versatile epoxy
Yeah dries fast, somewhat heat resistant ( the og one, they do make the high temp one) and a 5 year old can apply it . I fuckin love jb weld
I used to make my crankcase stuffers by covering the crankshaft in a thin layer of wax and filling the crankcase with a mix of Epoxy and aluminium filings. Once it sets then you pull apart and have the exact fit you need and you can die grind any profiles you need. It is a little more complex than I have said as you have to drill, thread and screw in the finished parts but you get the idea.
👍Plan on doing the same but cast the pieces with "lost PLA" like I did with the cylinder.
We met 2-3 years ago via email and I put you in touch with jeff henise and wobbly . I suggested you came and raced with me ay Bonnivill and you said you didn’t have the budget. I lost touch with your chanel for a while (not sure why) but came back recently and very happy to see how far you have come and even as far as America and back ! Lol . Well I’m sorry I missed you but hopefully are paths will cross next time you are here especially if you fly into Los Angeles. As far as the negative comments go just feel sorry for them they just can’t see what your doing as you are so far ahead ! Keep up the good work logchopper
I don't know what these guys are talkin about I definitely want to hear that thing run every single time LOL I want to hear it run better and better hopefully run really good by the end of it all. Look forward to seeing the work completed
Watching the channel for quite some time now, you sir are a legend in the making. Bought some merch and donated some cash i can spare. Keep up the good work! And remember: Non est ad astra mollis e terris via" - "There is no easy way from the earth to the stars
Thanks man, means a lot!
I have cut L shaped rings before for oil control. The way I found which worked was drill a bit of plate to accept 3 dowel pins, the dowel pins are arranged in such a way to have the two outer pins on the outside of the ring and the centre pin on on the inside of the ring. They are arranged so that if the ring is spread slightly it can be placed flat between the pins. Set up an end mill in a drill press or milling machine. Place the plate on the machine table so that the end mill is adjacent the centre pin with the ring in between. This provides back up support for the cutting forces. clamp the plate to the machine table and take a light cut slowly forcing the ring against the cutter. Do not climb mill as this will cause the ring to be dragged into the cutter.
👍
You can use crazy glue to make your O rings as good as bought ones.
Its good to see you making consistent videos again!
Its trouble shooting trouble shooting and trouble shooting.... that we not hear the engine run in a vid... is not a problem... just the vid and what u think and do... love it
Keep on keeping on my friend!! Blazing a new trail into unknown territory isn't supposed to be easy....or even look possible. That's why is seldom happens.
It's a hell of a process, I admire your commitment to making it work. Kia kaha brother.
I'm addicted to these videos!
All good and most interesting ...do not need or expect to see all the time a running engine
What if you don't use ring at all? Like in small modell engines. They have a conical shape cylinder wich is tight on the top and loose on the bottom. I am not sure if this is your solution but definitely worth the brainstorming ;)
Hoppas din kanal växer så du kan göra fler och mer utväcklade projekt, riktigt spännande!!
Although it's not necessary it's just nice to hear it running
Awesome work as always and congratulations on 100K
5:09 Handyman's secret weapon.... Duct tape
good to see that you have some unintended intended failsafes on that engine with those cut outs :D
Your cases base have wu-tang clan shape, that's what makes him the more powerful !
It ain't nothing to f**k with!
for next generation crankcase you can design valve like doors or blade like carb to close or open part of crankcase for low volume startup and after that for full power
👍 Go to my Instagram @2strokestuffing for pics of exactly that. Think I showed it in the previous vid too(might have forgotten)
@@2STROKESTUFFING I totally missed that :D
CONGRATULATIONS to your first 100k Sub's!!💪
Thanks!
That was me.. 😄
Baby steps man
I watch every ounce 👌🏽
You can't believe how ready I am
If you need 3D parts printed, I’d be happy to help you out.
I have a Creality CR10S and have been printing (as a hobbies) for a few years now. I’ve not had good luck with ABS - need an enclosure.
I have a lot of trouble with clear PLA, either absorbing moisture or become very brittle fairly quickly.
PETG is a decent in-between of PLA and ABS, easier to print than ABS but better material properties than PLA.
MetroidChild Thanks for the tip! I believe have spool of PETG .... just haven’t had the time to tune my printer to that material.
Any video is a good video when you actually get to reference some two stroke stuffing!
Bare å hente O-ringer her hos naboen=) har ett helt sett jeg bare har lånt noen få av.
Herligt, da må jeg ta en tur!
Is it possible to design a rotating "stuffing" that operates like a "power-valve"?
Definitely an idea worth exploring!
That is what I thought. Or it could inflate :)
Rotax engines had a rotative intake.
Great idea with a value.
Ok I'm going to say it may sound very weird.
You have front inlet port to start low rpm then the rear large tune resonance inlet .
Why not run 2 carbs small and large once fired and and above 5000rpm open large carby and cap off small starter carby just a thought. Then hopefully large crank case volume will not be a issue.
Love it awesome work and great to see imput of viewers.
Cheers Pat
@@edouardchalaron857 #godrotax
I'd think a dual cable throttle where the auxiliary cable controls a cast aluminium lobe that slides in to fill the crankcase volume at low throttle then opens up as you wind the throttle would sort out the starting and low speed running issues
Keep on keeping on 👍
Put a small carb running lean for start up testing as the compression is low it can’t pull the fuel from the bowl of that big carb. Think of it for now anyway like a small 2t engine which in some respects you are as your are putting stuffers in. Hope this may help. I’ve never commented on your vids but I’ve followed right from the the first one and never missed one since. I truly hope you pull this off as for all your time and effort your going to be a rich man. I’m not sure how to spell it but make sure you paintent or patent your idea before one of the big manufacturers get on it. 👍🏻
Ever started a kx500? All im saying. I respect the amount of work done by hand and not a 5 axis mill. Thats experience.
😁Thanks!
@@2STROKESTUFFING thank you for the content man.
You can make O-rings and caskets by ''drawing'' with silicone on nonstick paper. Wait til its dry and peal off
Oh the suspense!
Congrats to a 100.000 subs!!
Thanks!
Anyone knows the performance figures the engine is supposed to achieve?
30+ hp, got some bugs to squash...
You are making amazing progress it doesnt need to run in every video you are doing a great job... Thinking about the volume issue in the crank case i wonder if you cant look at the old compression release mechanism from the big 2 strokes and apply it to your case making it to where you flip a lever and would move a slide of sorts to change the crank case volume... Just thinkin outside the box
I have never seen that kind of multiple piece piston before. Pistons are typically cast as 1 piece with the ring lan cut into them. If you can ever afford one I'd suggest going over to a powder type printer that uses a laser instead of an extrusion type. They tend to require far less cleanup of the part and don't leave the layers visible. Powder ones are what the auto and gaming (miniatures) industries use for rapid prototyping.
I wonder if it might start easier with the engine 'upside down' like it is when mounted to the moped? Fuel doesn't like travelling upwards especially when you have low crankcase pressure and velocity at low rpm.
Makes sense, worth trying!
A trick i learnt with allen keys, if the allen key starts to bend, its probably done up to the correct torque
Not really an exact science but it works
Good trick!
Well having just found this spot I am intrigued and have subscribed.. What is your ultimate goal for this little ripper? If I have some time soon I will go back and see if this is totally hand made and designed by you (I suspect it is). As I mentioned I am enthralled by your ability and dedication to this project..Thank you my brother for sharing your passion.. Carry on I am with you to the end..
NEVER leave a chuck key in the lathe!!!!!!!!!!!!, ask me how i know..... lol...
About the T shape ring, I thought it could be affected by the pressure when the explosion occurs. They often cut an angle on the inside of top ring so that pressure keeps it in place, contrary of what the ledge of the T would do. Maybe it's another problem avoided by going with a flat ring.
Yep
You need to build a volume changing crankcase.
👍See previous vid and @2strokestuffing on Instagram - got something planned!
I would think that if your eating rings in a matter of seconds your bore surface finish is too rough even if your current rings are soft. Maybe a ringless design would do better. Preheating the cooling system before starting to minimize running thermal expansion thereby allowing tight tolerances with the piston to bore. There was a Formula One car engine many years ago that would not even turn over at room temp due to extremely tight tolerances. If you're not sure how to lap for a tight fit contact me directly (too much for here) ........ JMHO Great video BTW I will have a drink for you after dinner! Too bad your not closer I love this stuff.....
Thanks for the tips. Bore surface isn't too bad except for lots of porosity. Might be both the ring and bore wearing tho, the bore was plated with the wrong kind of boron nitride particles. There's a new harder ring coming.
Congrats on 100K!
Thanks!
thanks for the update.
You should try and model your ring after 'totalseal' rings. It would get resolve your gap problem.
Just an idea, maybe coating the ring would help thus making it harder, I believe aptec in the uk do this amongst other things on their parts
Maybe it will start better with forced / compressed air on the auxiliary, nitrous perhaps?
Is it running on petrol or nitromethane and methanol?
Hi, have you tried stepping the ends of the piston ring so they overlap. When the piston moves up and down the bore the overlapping sections wil press together giving an all round seal. Just a thought, thanks.
You may be on to something there!
Or something like this where the gap is at an angle so the compressed mixture can’t escape as easily?
www.exportersindia.com/power-international-company4777309/hydraulic-wear-rings-3068349.htm
Actually this is a really good idea!
Doesn't that mess up the timing?
@@theowarmelink7347 No it is only a piston ring.
0.15 mm segmentation squisch 0.60 mm and 15/1 crompression
as long as it takes bro, i fully support this project.
just want to suggest why not use copper wire as a seal for the cylinder head .would it not function better?
Keep going ! Great stuff !
the test with mounted expansion would give easier reading perhaps, however good!
Should run better too. The lack of an exhaust with expansion chamber makes me think that it will never run right until something is in place. A 50cc 2-stroke scooter or bike exhaust would at least be a good starting point. Resonance and pressure waves generated from the expansion chamber are what hold the fuel mixture in place and scavenge the exhaust gasses. A small expansion chamber should give the engine a wider rpm band in which it will run. Then comes changing the shape/size of the chamber to maximize hp
Terminusest I think that is still being welded. He showed it on the last video
U said it better than me!
Not a problem with starting, his pipe is designed for 20k rpm
@@jessecoc6247 Well there kind of is a problem when starting, and if it was a more conventional crankcase setup it would be running now, as air induction and transfer would be guaranteed. Sure this crankcase setup has run many times before with more but with a more conventional cylinder and pipe.
Are the rings wearing out because they arent being lubricated while trying to start?
Pre lubing the cylinder with a coating of 2-stroke oil may help somewhat
Lots of oil present. It's too soft, new one's will be harder.
I thought the same thing
2STROKE STUFFING do you have a reliable way to get hardness verified? I have access to various vickers and Rockwell testing methods
@L G u should watch all of his previous vid.. this not only cast his own custom cylinder, he even electro-coated the cyl in house... And yes not to mention build his own roller dyno...
I fully resoect and have full of my support on this fastest 50cc bonevielle attempt..much love 👍👍
Why does the ring need to be between the skirt and the crown? Why no make the crown a bit thicker and put ordinary groves and rings on the piston crown? That's the way it's done on big two stroke diesels, only they use more rings and the crown is bolted on. 😏
You'll get it !
Really like your work.... but could i ask you to PLEASE paint your lathe chuck key fluorescent green or pink,just so you always know where it is, ie,, in your hand or hanging on the wall....not in the lathe chuck when it is turned on....And again i really like your work.
Progress!
I think a big opening in the exhaust port is wearing rings fast.
I think put the exhaust valve in the head like a four stroke, huge swept volume! and zero ring probs.
What are we gonna do today pinky ? Build the most powerful 2 stroke in the world ...
😂
Have you considered gas porting the piston to help the seal?
What's the difference in diameter of the captured ring outside the bore and then the bore diameter? How much projected wear are you planning for? Personally, as a toolmaker, I would limit ring compression from trapped state to bore diameter down to only say .002"-.003", .004" max (on diameter). You really need nice radii in both just the port edge and the shape of the port, the seal doesn't like slamming in to a flat edge in either direction, the rotary guys know a lot about this. Pie is not being your friend right now and think you may be missing this little detail.
Could you not use the abc design that is used in ABC
RC engines so there’s no need for piston rings ?
hello, it works better if you make your exhaust port on the bottom instead on the top because your intake is there as well.
The secondary intake is in the right place.
@@2STROKESTUFFING sorry man didnt know it was a secondary intake :)
You're videos are probably the best in UA-cam for me! Is it sometimes benfitial to have a large volume in the crank case? You mentioned about it making the pipe effective...
Thanks! It's nice to have a large volume for the pipe to "suck on", less average pressure drop throughout the transfer cycle.
@@2STROKESTUFFING That's what she said :D
😂
But seriously, I didn't think the crank case volume came into play for the tuning of the pipe...
Picture the whole engine being the pipe, from carb to stinger. Resonance...
Have you considered hard-coating the rings with a similar treatment to that which you have used on the cylinder?
We've used TiN Titanium Nitride coating on our Merc 2.0/2.5 rings/nicasil bores for years.
Yes!
Total Seal uses PVD coatings. You really don’t want Nikasil on Nikasil
Wonder if this would be easier for starting if it had a belt driven rotary disc valve like konig 500cc as not relying on vacuum etc to open petal valves
I think so!
What if you put some more mass on the crank so it has more momentum to stay running? I have a hit an miss engine an that’s how mine stays running with only firing once every 10+ strokes I’m not saying add that much weight but maybe some
What if you use two rings stacked together? One ring like you are using and then flip one up side down. Ring gaps on opposite sides.
Long term use would make rings stick together? I think it would work long enough for what you are doing.
I feel like you could do wounders to my moped😈
Man, why so much back firing? Is this normal because something that this prototype has?
I'm suspecting blowby, either the ring gap, ring not sealing properly, or both.
@@2STROKESTUFFING so when there is "backfiring" by the carb, maybe is the blowby too?
@@Fumacenta2tempos likely, hoping the new ring can clarify.
I get below of motorized durepox in reed valves
@@vini2124 i think they dont have durepoxi kkkkkkkkkk
Looking at some of the starting issues you are having, I believe if you had some more weight on the flywheel or rotating mass it might sustain it easier
Dude, you are awesome...
Nice hat!
Thanks!
Maybe the original T ring from Mark Atkinson kan work. If its strong and durable enough, and eliminate the spots where its "binding".
If se the cut/side profile, Think its May snag/bind in the radius degrees/chamfers/corners on the T profile?
So the profiled chamfers and radius on the piston and pistonring must be equal..?
Possibly, if the tabbed ring holds up it has the advantage of being lighter though, and the ringland can almost be normal.
congrats on 100K! man
make sure you are drying your filament. moisture in the filament can ruin your quality and have you go nuts chasing your quality again
You need a ring gapper,you can get em cheap on fleabay or whatever.
👍
Has your ring groove sealing profile remained true to your design, flatish? Just thinking out loud here. Don't want to interrupt your process to progress. Wondering if there are any surface treatments that may improve the seal, anodizing perhaps? Anyone work in other industries? A little industrial border crossing won't upset the patron saint of Eureka Moments.
Make a exhaust that create's some back pressure! A 2 stroke need back pressure to run properly.
Maybe you could pre heat the crank case to avoid getting as much fuel on the walls when you cold start like this?
Was ready 6 months ago!
Sometimes it’s baby steps...👍
How about a temporary (of the shelf) 2 stroke exhaust, to replace your straight pipe.
This one gives no backpressure at all. Your custom 20K pipe won't do much better in these low RPM ranges.
Resulting in a very lean mixture, in an already oversized crankcase for the (I would call the secundairy intake) start up carb, probably overcompensated with too big of jets, resulting in backfires due to the agressive timing.
The problem with dying out and backfiring seems to happen at midrange RPM's, not at the initial start-up.
I would recommend a scooter exhaust. They are designed for a specific powerband (due to CVT) , and therefore have predictable pulses, helping to stuff your cilinder.
They are also affordable, and you only have to make or modify the flange.
I'm no expert in calculating exhaust or port-maps, but am one of pretty much al 50-70cc of the shelf CVT exhaust systems of the last 2 decades.
If you give me a preferred RPM I'll be happy to give you some exhaust options, with different volumes. Maybe able to send you one as well.
Or maybe the designer/maker of your 20K rpm exhaust has options for you?
Maybe an (tuner) exhaust of a shift gear moped can als be an option. Those are able to function in a wider RPM range.
Injectors with a custom map might solve some of your (mixture) problems at start-up as well.
Variabel ignition curves probably won't help much, again because of the agressive timing.