David, So I always have ATF oil in my oil can. It is a great all round assembly oil. It is safe on oil seals and can be used on just about anything with fear of the oil damaging something. It is also a light weight oil at approximately 15W, so it easily penetrates into tight tolerances. Making sure that nothing is dry on start up. You can always use the oil that you plan to run in the engine as well as an assembly lube. Thanks for watching Kurt
The milling the valve covers was slick! That is a clean engine! I see you don't have the carrera timing chain tensioners on here. Im cleaning up a 1977 2.7 and read that I should add the carrera tensioner. What are your thoughts?
So the Carrera tensioners are really the way to go. However, in the past 10 to 15 years there has been a resurgence of using the original non pressure fed tensioners to maintain the originality side of the motor. There is also one concern when using the late model tensioners on the early 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, and pre 1977 2.7L engines. The size of the oil pump on the early engines is quite small in comparison to the later engines. Because the Carrera chain tensioners are basicly a controlled oil leak inside the engine this can place a stress on the smaller oil pumps ability to maintain volume and pressure at engine lower speeds. Kurt
You mention adding RSR seals to the rocker shafts. Was there a tech bulletin related to this? What years and / or situations do you recommend adding the seals? I don't see rocker seals in the parts catalog for our car 1970 914-6 (same as 1968-69 911T I think). Thanks again for your great videos.
Dennis, You wont see the rocker shaft seals in the Porsche Parts catalog system. They came from the Porsche Racing division. They can be used from 1964 through 1994 models. I use the seals every time that I pull an engine down. Kurt
How do you know when to replace the valve adjusters, they are a ball joint and do wear but I don't feel they have to be replaced without reason or wear tolerance being exceeded
The most common reason i replace valve lash adjusters is because the threads become stretched by people over tightening the lock nuts when doing the valve adjust. The other reason would also be excessive damage to the screwdriver slot, making if difficult to set an accurate clearance without the adjuster moving. I have never actually seen the "elephant's foot" wear out at the valve end. Thanks for watching
Thanks Kurt, one last thing of note on TDC,,,,, I'm on Z1 on pully,,,, The rocker arms in cyl. #1 are on the base circle on the camshaft. So that is TDC for #1. OK the only thing is , on the #4 cylinder the rockers are on the rise of the lobe, but not the apex. Is that OK? Thanks Russ
Rus, Yes you are on TDC number 1 and yes the number 4 rockers should only be on the ramps not the tip of the lobes. This is known as the overlap as the intake valve should be closing and the exhaust valve opening on number 4
Great vid's, Question I'm rebuilding a 911S 1974, The engine is together, now I'm installing the Rocker arms, Keep in mind rocker arm #1 and #4 are in and the timing complete. How do I know now when I'm on Z1 TDC, If it's TDC for cylinder #1 or cyl. #4?? Thanks
Easy, you can either look down into the cam box and see the cam lobes or you can feel the opposite rocker and see if it is tight or loose. So when you are on Z1 the cylinder that is on the compression stroke will have the rockers on the base circle of the camshaft, this will leave them loose. The opposite cylinder will have both the intake and exhaust valves on the camshaft lobes and the rockers will be tight. Thanks for watching Kurt
No that was it, I do not add a tighten once the clearance has been set. I do find a lot of over tightened valve adjusters. The issue I find is that the threads on the elephant feet have been streched out and the lock nut jams on the threads. To fix the entire rocker has to come out and the nut and adjuster replaced. I have seen them so bad that you cannot even back the adjuster out of the rocker arm and I have to pop the elephant foot off and bring them out the top. Kurt
Thanks Professor Kurt. Your so helpful, I wish you were my neighbor. LOL If your any where near SWF look me up. Im Buying!!
Deal!
What are your thoughts on anti-seize on the spark plug threads? I know Porsche says not to use any to help maintain electrical grounding.
I Still use a small amount of Copper grease when installing spark plugs. Its hard to break old habits.
Kurt
What's that oil you're squirting on the rockers?
And thanks for the videos!
David,
So I always have ATF oil in my oil can. It is a great all round assembly oil. It is safe on oil seals and can be used on just about anything with fear of the oil damaging something. It is also a light weight oil at approximately 15W, so it easily penetrates into tight tolerances. Making sure that nothing is dry on start up. You can always use the oil that you plan to run in the engine as well as an assembly lube.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
The milling the valve covers was slick! That is a clean engine!
I see you don't have the carrera timing chain tensioners on here. Im cleaning up a 1977 2.7 and read that I should add the carrera tensioner. What are your thoughts?
So the Carrera tensioners are really the way to go. However, in the past 10 to 15 years there has been a resurgence of using the original non pressure fed tensioners to maintain the originality side of the motor. There is also one concern when using the late model tensioners on the early 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, and pre 1977 2.7L engines. The size of the oil pump on the early engines is quite small in comparison to the later engines. Because the Carrera chain tensioners are basicly a controlled oil leak inside the engine this can place a stress on the smaller oil pumps ability to maintain volume and pressure at engine lower speeds.
Kurt
Do you have a video for inspection and overhaul of the rockers?
Stephen,
It has been filmed but not edited or ready for release just yet.
Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for that video.
Kurt
@@klassikats Thanks for the reply, videos are excellent by the way!
You mention adding RSR seals to the rocker shafts. Was there a tech bulletin related to this? What years and / or situations do you recommend adding the seals? I don't see rocker seals in the parts catalog for our car 1970 914-6 (same as 1968-69 911T I think). Thanks again for your great videos.
Dennis,
You wont see the rocker shaft seals in the Porsche Parts catalog system. They came from the Porsche Racing division. They can be used from 1964 through 1994 models. I use the seals every time that I pull an engine down.
Kurt
How do you know when to replace the valve adjusters, they are a ball joint and do wear but I don't feel they have to be replaced without reason or wear tolerance being exceeded
The most common reason i replace valve lash adjusters is because the threads become stretched by people over tightening the lock nuts when doing the valve adjust. The other reason would also be excessive damage to the screwdriver slot, making if difficult to set an accurate clearance without the adjuster moving. I have never actually seen the "elephant's foot" wear out at the valve end.
Thanks for watching
@@klassikats Thanks, I can see a lesson here, when to replace your valve adjusters.
Hi Kurt. What is your criteria for determining if the original rocker shafts can be reused?
Measurement and surface condition
Kurt
Thanks Kurt, one last thing of note on TDC,,,,, I'm on Z1 on pully,,,, The rocker arms in cyl. #1 are on the base circle on the camshaft. So that is TDC for #1. OK the only thing is , on the #4 cylinder the rockers are on the rise of the lobe, but not the apex. Is that OK? Thanks Russ
Rus,
Yes you are on TDC number 1 and yes the number 4 rockers should only be on the ramps not the tip of the lobes. This is known as the overlap as the intake valve should be closing and the exhaust valve opening on number 4
@@klassikats Got it,, I feel better!
Great vid's, Question I'm rebuilding a 911S 1974, The engine is together, now I'm installing the Rocker arms, Keep in mind rocker arm #1 and #4 are in and the timing complete. How do I know now when I'm on Z1 TDC, If it's TDC for cylinder #1 or cyl. #4?? Thanks
Easy, you can either look down into the cam box and see the cam lobes or you can feel the opposite rocker and see if it is tight or loose. So when you are on Z1 the cylinder that is on the compression stroke will have the rockers on the base circle of the camshaft, this will leave them loose. The opposite cylinder will have both the intake and exhaust valves on the camshaft lobes and the rockers will be tight.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
@@klassikats Thanks Kurt, I will get on that, BTW, where are you from, sounds like a New England accent. Thanks again!
Hi Kurt, what torque do you use for the oil cooler?
25 NM on the 8 mm studs
Kurt
Was that the final snug on the rocker clearance adjusters or did you edit out the final tightening?
No that was it, I do not add a tighten once the clearance has been set. I do find a lot of over tightened valve adjusters. The issue I find is that the threads on the elephant feet have been streched out and the lock nut jams on the threads. To fix the entire rocker has to come out and the nut and adjuster replaced. I have seen them so bad that you cannot even back the adjuster out of the rocker arm and I have to pop the elephant foot off and bring them out the top.
Kurt