Thanks for another great video! Your UA-cam channel has helped so much in redoing my entire first home. Started with no DiY skills and now my friends are asking me to fit their bathrooms and kitchens, including some fresh plastering because they like mine so much! I just keep referring them to this channel! Thanks again Charlie!
Can't thank you enough for that, Chris! I set the Channel up initially to give myself something new to get inspired about, as I was struggling with my mojo in the day job. Knowing how DIY is floundering a bit, I hoped I would be able to get the message across somehow, but hearing from people such as your good self and how much it has helped is truly humbling. Thanks also for telling everyone about the Channel. Keep up the good work, and drop me a line if you ever need any help!
Just watched this, absolutely awestruck watching him do this ceiling it's just a sheer art form! Wish I had these skills..! Thank you again for all the time that must have gone into recording and editing this video. 👏👍
You're very welcome. I know, he makes it look so easy, doesn't he. A lovely man too. This is the first video we did together ua-cam.com/video/Ksc2mghC-4c/v-deo.html
@@CharlieDIYte just watched it today, absolutely fascinating. Once again thank you, much of your learnings and teaching I suspect is going to be recapped through this upstairs front bedroom project of an old cottage. Took some plaster off the wall to uncover an old bricked up fire place in the bedroom. Capped with nothing but a copy of the Birmingham evening post, in almost pristine condition, bundled up in a ball and dated 18th November 1963... Mind boggling it's been up there, hidden behind plaster, since 15 years before I was even born!!
I have put up plasterboard on two ceilings in my house. In both cases, I have removed the old plasterboard first. This is a filthy job especially if there is insulation above. Having removed the old plasterboard, I have attached 2 x 4's to the joists to create a perfectly flat and level surface for the new plasterboard. Obviously this is a lot more work and only worthwhile if the old ceilings aren't flat and/or level.
Exactly what i needed! I knew there would be a vid on this channel. I recommend this channel to everyone! Made me chuckle when Gerrad just smashed the the plaster. I would have done what you did but the Pros are Pros!
Rather than clout nails I like to use an autofeed screwdriver. It's just convenient when working overhead. I've got the Senco duraspin but have been hearing good things about Makitas.
Gerard makes it look easy! I had to phone him before he started to apologise that I hadn't completely got the room ready for him and he wasn't phased at all. All part of the job for him!
45mm screws would suffice if fixing into joists/rafters/studs directly. Spec sheet for British gypsum is 25mm screw penetration min. and 230mm spacings with 150mm at board ends for ceilings.
Hi Charle, glad I found your video. Need to show it to my builder!!! We got a old flat ” plaster & wood lath” ceiling where we want to install number of trimless light” in each room. I was told the a new ceiling needed to install those ” trim less light fitting”. Instead of doing a drop ceiling or take the old ceiling down, the method show in your video might be a solution :). I am interested in your view- Do you think the method showing can allow trim light installed successfully? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi can I ask why you didn’t remove the boards that were already up before putting on the new plasterboards? Got a room in my new place that’s almost indentical!
Very informative video, but how did you deal with the loft hatch architrave? I noticed you’d boarded round it. Would it have been easier to take the architrave off and board right up to the frame then architrave over the plasterboard?
There's was a little snippit in this video ua-cam.com/video/idmmDRM3x0A/v-deo.html at 9:35 mins. Basically I screwed a new surround - 14mm x 30 or 40mm (width doesn't matter as long as it's covered by the architrave) of planed pine to the underside of the hatch, with a slight overhang that the hatch itself could rest down onto. We could then plasterboard up to that pine strip, and then the new architrave was glued to that.
Hi. What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
This is the original video. bit.ly/3r5EV89 although you don't see me applying scrim tape to the joins. It's dead easy to do though so you don't really need a video on it. Just make sure you get a decent one, something like this bit.ly/2sjZ2X6
Hi, I'm putting 1.8M X 0.9M plasterboards up on a sloping ceiling, to make life easier. Should the timber battens to support them be at 450mm apart? Thanks for any advice.
By the way a good reason for not using foil-backed plasterboard when you don't need to is that it completely buggers up wifi if you do a whole room with it!
In France they have a attachment that fits over the end of the drill bit, which makes it impossible to drill the screw in to deep , so they are All in level, c, est parfait.......🐟🐟
Hi was just wondering what mm thickness(new 2nd) plasterboard did you use? Also I'm assuming that the joists are cable of handling the weight of a double layered plasterboard set up?
@@CharlieDIYte besides the benefit of having a moisture barrier when using the 12mm foiled back plasterboard, would using a standard tapered edged plasterboard be okay to use? My loft has currently been gutted out and will be using it as a storage/office space. I'm thinking of using kingspan between the joists and normal loft insulation where needed. What do you think if you were in my current position?
I’m replacing my bedroom ceiling this year. I’m going to take the old ceiling down and replace it with a new one don’t like the idea of to much weight over my head. I know it’s going to be a messy job.
Hi Charlie. Thanks for all you videos. So helpful. I discovered this video as we are currently overboarding an old ceiling in a similar condition to the one in this. My original concern was some parts of the old ceiling looked uneven and quite aged and not suitable to go on top of. But would you say this isn't the case?
Charlie, when screwing adjoining boards into the same joist, is there a danger of splitting the wood/not screwing close enough to the centre? I can't work out from the video how you guys did it, doesn't seem that you were too worried about it?
Yes that's why he smashed holes each side and no, you won't split the wood with dry wall screws. The thread is very narrow - about 4mm. Even if you do, don't worry it won't affect the structural integrity of the joist.
My room gets EXTREMELY hot and I don't have money to apply waterproof agents for my whole roof ): is plasterboarding my room's concrete ceiling an option to insulate?? does anyone have any suggestions? Im desperate :'( thank you for this video and all the help
Do you have a video showing how to repair peeling plasterboard tape in corners of room (new build ). Your videos are really helpful. Just watched your 2 caulking ones.
I don't unfortunately but my advice would be to cut away the section that is protruding out of the plaster with a Stanley knife, (if it's only a small area which I'm guessing it is) and get yourself a box of this bit.ly/393yo8a and mix a bit up like I showed in this video bit.ly/37aov70 and apply it to the damaged area with a decorators knife or better still a continental fillers knife, leaving it a bit proud of the surface and then gently sand once it's set with a 120 or 180 grit sand paper wrapped around a little block of wood, or a sanding block if you can get one. It will be an invisible repair which you can then repaint. When you repaint, water down the first coat you, so it sinks in properly, just checking the emulsion tin to make sure it says you can water it down.
@@CharlieDIYte that’s great. Thanks for your help! It is a rather large area (ceiling and adjacent wall) but I will try this approach on a small part first. And if works will do the rest. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Charlie. I've got a similar situation to this, though I was going to remove the old plasterboard and replace it, rather than going over the top. Is there much benefit in going on top of the old plasterboard?
You have to weigh up the pros and the cons, Dan. As Gerard says, there's a huge amount of mess if you take the ceiling down, as well as having to remove each and ever nail from the joists. In my case you have the added complexity of the sloping ceiling which would also need to be removed and that's interconnected with a rather bizarre arrangement where the victorians rendered a course of roof tiles at the top of the wall to cover a base plate that the roof joists sat on. With old properties like mine, you can quite quickly be faced with a complete rebuild so I although I'm a perfectionist and would normally want to remove the plasterboard and start again, I had to take the pragmatic line here - as we're living in the house and I didn't want to introduce all that dust and soot in to the living environment. If the ceiling is reasonably flat free of damp etc, plasterboarding over the existing is a sensible option.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie, appreciate the response. I can definitely see the logic in this approach and think I'll do the same. My property is from the same era, so probably has similar issues. I'm slowly working my way through fixing the poor 90s conversion work and finding all kinds of issues. Great videos, please keep them coming.
I took down an old plaster and lath ceiling (a very messy job) before putting plasterboard up on the advice of a very experienced (45 years in the trade full-time- who has 3 year waiting list). He said the additional weight (doubling) on joists not designed to take that weight can over time cause bowing. Also, if there's a leak from a water pipe getting removing two layers can be nightmare. It was messy but I sleep easier...
Hi Josh. I'm really tempted to do a video on that! It would be a bit of an unfair comparison in the sense that the Ryobi are all brushed whereas the Erbauer are brushless but I've been generally using the Erbauer although the fitter (a carpenter friend) who works for me once a week and uses my tools recently asked me to put my Ryobi combi back in the case as he finds it's less bulky and can get into tighter spaces and the plastic chuck is less likely to damage customers walls. There's a tiny lag on the brushless tools compared to the brushed when you pull the trigger but the Erbauer batteries seem to go on and on for ever, and the Erbauer combi is definitely more powerful than the Ryobi. Leave it with me. Maybe later in the summer I'll put something out there!
Charlie. Thank you very much for your video. I am thinking of doing some DIY myself, so excuse a novice question. Why are you not ripping down the old plaster board to then put the new stuff directly on the joists
Without presuming to speak on Charlie's behalf there are a few advantages of screwing plasterboard to old plasterboard. Number one is a drastic reduction in mess ,dust and waste. When you pull down a ceiling there is tons of dust generated which will get everywhere regardless of how stringent your dust control measures. Plus you have to remove all the nails before placing the new sheet. Overboarding is less hassle.
I will speculate that one big reason is if there is an attic above, then you have to deal with all the insulation that might fall out along with whatever else is up there and its easier just to not have to deal with that mess!
That's right. The dust, soot and insulation would have been a lot to manage but to be honest I'm now regretting not pulling down the entire ceiling and leaving the apex beams on show because the beams in the attic are something else!
D'you mean the short edge? The long edge runs along the joists? I'm trying to think what we did about the short edge but yes it would be better if you could screw these to a noggin.
Sorry don’t agree, from experience it’s definitely quicker pumping in a couple of screws. If you have the correct drill bit (plasterboard bit) on there is no faffing around 🤷🏽♂️
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. ☕Charlie DIYte Buy Me a Coffee Membership bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - access our incredible Discord DIY forum and help support my Channel. 👚Charlie DIYte Official Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - all new range of professionally designed merch.
Hellllpppp can anyone tell me if I can just glue the board on my ceiling? If so, do you think it can crack ? Ps : I never use plasterboard in my life, but I'm woman in a mission to take out those artex ceiling from my house .
No you can't just glue it - the glue would only be as strong as the bond of artex to the ceiling, and the plasterboard would be too heavy. It must be screwed to the joists if you're fixing to the ceiling.
Great video Charlie, is there anyway I could contact Gerard for a similar job? also will you be doing any videos on skimming the walls of a room that's marked after wallpaper removal?
Hi Neil. Are you in the West Midlands? I'm sure Gerard would be keen if it's local. If so, drop me an email on charliediyte@gmail.com and I'll forward you his details. How badly marked is the wall? If not too bad and you'd rather not skim, you could always use Easi-Fill to fill the scuffs.
Possibly Gareth but the dust, mess and loft insulation that would have rained down would have been horrendous, particularly given we were living there during the work.
2 people boarding a ceiling you would just put a screw in while the other holds it up,,65mm is too much I think for a overboard on plasterboard,,maybe for lath and plaster
Hi Charlie, You showed what I used to call a "surf plain" this was probably a manufactures name more than an item name. I haven't had one for some time now so I went direct to "today's toolkit" to order one only to find that you have not listed it. Come on if you are going to have a toolkit list at least list all the tools in that video.
That's a bit harsh but you're right to point out the omission. Here's the Draper version listed in the insulated plasterboard video www.toolstation.com/draper-multi-rasp-planer/p25009 I'll update the Description for this video when I'm back later.
Ladies and gents.... please dont EVER put your fingers up into a hole in the ceiling before you've checked there arent any old electrical cables there first. I've seen too many half arsed trades people shock themselves accross the room doing exactly that
People have been putting new board onto old for years. If the house is lived in, you're opening a can of worms if you drop a ceiling with all the dust, spores, and soot flying around. Much simpler to simply over board. In this case I was using foil lined plasterboard which basically prevents any vapour or moisture from rising up into the roof timbers and condensing. Condensation shouldn't be an issue because of the loft insulation, but it's better to take a belt and braces approach to this.
I had to take down an old lath and plaster ceiling in a converted steading in Aberdeen. That was when I discovered they used to use ash and clinker from the fireplace as insulation. I looked like a coal mineral the time I finished. No choice on that occasion, but best avoided if possible
Where I live they used a mixture of clout nails and dry wall screws and I can confirm they pop out from the plaster board and plaster over time when the building warms up and cools down I wouldn’t use clout nails or follow the advice on this video bloke doesn’t know what his talking about...
If you nail on the edge and screw on the bound edge then scrim hardly a problem,even with screws You have the heads pop.especially on old places have more structural movement,I only put about six nails in each board then the rest of board is screwed six inches apart
I fucking love how chilled Gerrard is. He’s a pleasure to watch.
Watching people with these skills always amazes me.
Thanks for another great video! Your UA-cam channel has helped so much in redoing my entire first home. Started with no DiY skills and now my friends are asking me to fit their bathrooms and kitchens, including some fresh plastering because they like mine so much! I just keep referring them to this channel! Thanks again Charlie!
Can't thank you enough for that, Chris! I set the Channel up initially to give myself something new to get inspired about, as I was struggling with my mojo in the day job. Knowing how DIY is floundering a bit, I hoped I would be able to get the message across somehow, but hearing from people such as your good self and how much it has helped is truly humbling. Thanks also for telling everyone about the Channel. Keep up the good work, and drop me a line if you ever need any help!
Just watched this, absolutely awestruck watching him do this ceiling it's just a sheer art form! Wish I had these skills..! Thank you again for all the time that must have gone into recording and editing this video. 👏👍
You're very welcome. I know, he makes it look so easy, doesn't he. A lovely man too. This is the first video we did together ua-cam.com/video/Ksc2mghC-4c/v-deo.html
@@CharlieDIYte just watched it today, absolutely fascinating. Once again thank you, much of your learnings and teaching I suspect is going to be recapped through this upstairs front bedroom project of an old cottage. Took some plaster off the wall to uncover an old bricked up fire place in the bedroom. Capped with nothing but a copy of the Birmingham evening post, in almost pristine condition, bundled up in a ball and dated 18th November 1963... Mind boggling it's been up there, hidden behind plaster, since 15 years before I was even born!!
I have put up plasterboard on two ceilings in my house. In both cases, I have removed the old plasterboard first. This is a filthy job especially if there is insulation above. Having removed the old plasterboard, I have attached 2 x 4's to the joists to create a perfectly flat and level surface for the new plasterboard. Obviously this is a lot more work and only worthwhile if the old ceilings aren't flat and/or level.
@Suns Out silly comment.
Exactly what i needed! I knew there would be a vid on this channel. I recommend this channel to everyone! Made me chuckle when Gerrad just smashed the the plaster. I would have done what you did but the Pros are Pros!
My mate is a plasterer. He calls his hammer the pricing hammer 😂
I’m doing an identical job in an identical room with the same chip board wall paper, this video was very very handy
Thanks mate. Hope it goes well 👍
Rather than clout nails I like to use an autofeed screwdriver. It's just convenient when working overhead. I've got the Senco duraspin but have been hearing good things about Makitas.
Hi Charlie, slabbing a ceiling is hard work, you guys make it look easy 👍
Gerard makes it look easy! I had to phone him before he started to apologise that I hadn't completely got the room ready for him and he wasn't phased at all. All part of the job for him!
Hi charlie, thanks for your video. Youve given me some good tips for when it comes to plasting a celling. thank you.
45mm screws would suffice if fixing into joists/rafters/studs directly. Spec sheet for British gypsum is 25mm screw penetration min. and 230mm spacings with 150mm at board ends for ceilings.
A really good video Charlie - thanks for that - especially liked the bit about clout nails and screws
Thanks Andrew!
Thanks as always Charlie. This is today's job for me.
Ah, well done, mate. How did it go?
@@CharlieDIYte Perfect thank you! The plasterer was well pleased!
I use a screwdriver and hammer to find the joists either end then ping a chalk line
Enjoyed doing this at my old house very useful video
Keep up the good work Charlie.
Thanks!
Hi Charle, glad I found your video. Need to show it to my builder!!! We got a old flat ” plaster & wood lath” ceiling where we want to install number of trimless light” in each room. I was told the a new ceiling needed to install those ” trim less light fitting”. Instead of doing a drop ceiling or take the old ceiling down, the method show in your video might be a solution :). I am interested in your view- Do you think the method showing can allow trim light installed successfully? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi can I ask why you didn’t remove the boards that were already up before putting on the new plasterboards? Got a room in my new place that’s almost indentical!
Very informative video, but how did you deal with the loft hatch architrave? I noticed you’d boarded round it. Would it have been easier to take the architrave off and board right up to the frame then architrave over the plasterboard?
There's was a little snippit in this video ua-cam.com/video/idmmDRM3x0A/v-deo.html at 9:35 mins. Basically I screwed a new surround - 14mm x 30 or 40mm (width doesn't matter as long as it's covered by the architrave) of planed pine to the underside of the hatch, with a slight overhang that the hatch itself could rest down onto. We could then plasterboard up to that pine strip, and then the new architrave was glued to that.
@@CharlieDIYte Ah makes sense, thanks Charlie! Looking forward to your next videos!
Hi. What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
Do you have a video on joining the plaster board, sealing with take and playing over it or is that not done now. Thank you
This is the original video. bit.ly/3r5EV89 although you don't see me applying scrim tape to the joins. It's dead easy to do though so you don't really need a video on it. Just make sure you get a decent one, something like this bit.ly/2sjZ2X6
Hi, I'm putting 1.8M X 0.9M plasterboards up on a sloping ceiling, to make life easier. Should the timber battens to support them be at 450mm apart? Thanks for any advice.
By the way a good reason for not using foil-backed plasterboard when you don't need to is that it completely buggers up wifi if you do a whole room with it!
Agree with that Andrew. We've got celotex insulation everywhere in our office and have to go outside to use our mobiles !!
Agreed. Upstairs like this is fine but I've heard of issues with this a few times.
how you managed to plasterboard the angled corner of the wall? Are the joists at an angle as well on that side of the wall?
In France they have a attachment that fits over the end of the drill bit, which makes it impossible to drill the screw in to deep , so they are All in level, c, est parfait.......🐟🐟
Yes you can get those over here too. Worth it if you're putting up loads of boards each day. 👍🏻
Can this direct application soundproof the room from noise coming from upstairs??
A little,but you would have to use acoustic insulation between joists and soundblock plasterboard.
Hi was just wondering what mm thickness(new 2nd) plasterboard did you use?
Also I'm assuming that the joists are cable of handling the weight of a double layered plasterboard set up?
12mm foil backed. Yes the roof joists won't have a problem with that weight.
@@CharlieDIYte besides the benefit of having a moisture barrier when using the 12mm foiled back plasterboard, would using a standard tapered edged plasterboard be okay to use? My loft has currently been gutted out and will be using it as a storage/office space. I'm thinking of using kingspan between the joists and normal loft insulation where needed. What do you think if you were in my current position?
I’m replacing my bedroom ceiling this year. I’m going to take the old ceiling down and replace it with a new one don’t like the idea of to much weight over my head. I know it’s going to be a messy job.
It will be very messy but satisfying when done.
much better way of doing it! sticking it over the top very amateurish. where are the joint strips? where's the leveling???
Can you use the insulated plasterboard that you used on the walls on the ceiling?
No reason why not but it's heavy stuff. You'd be better putting decent insulation in the roof space above, assuming that's practical?
Hi Charlie Can I use multi finish plaster over to woodchip wallpaper Ceiling old plasterboard thank you
i would overboard and skim ,i wouldn't skim over paper.
Hi Charlie. Thanks for all you videos. So helpful. I discovered this video as we are currently overboarding an old ceiling in a similar condition to the one in this. My original concern was some parts of the old ceiling looked uneven and quite aged and not suitable to go on top of. But would you say this isn't the case?
My ceiling was similarly uneven. You'll find that once you pull it up with the screws that the plasterboard is reasonably flexible. I'd go for it!
Charlie, when screwing adjoining boards into the same joist, is there a danger of splitting the wood/not screwing close enough to the centre? I can't work out from the video how you guys did it, doesn't seem that you were too worried about it?
and did gerard smash holes either side of the joist, in order to locate the centre?
Yes that's why he smashed holes each side and no, you won't split the wood with dry wall screws. The thread is very narrow - about 4mm. Even if you do, don't worry it won't affect the structural integrity of the joist.
I am thinking to do the same with one of my room. I usually work by myself in my house
Good plan. Make a dead man to help you - it's like a hang man frame you lean against the wall and prop the plasterboard on.
My room gets EXTREMELY hot and I don't have money to apply waterproof agents for my whole roof ): is plasterboarding my room's concrete ceiling an option to insulate?? does anyone have any suggestions? Im desperate :'( thank you for this video and all the help
Do you have a video showing how to repair peeling plasterboard tape in corners of room (new build ). Your videos are really helpful. Just watched your 2 caulking ones.
I don't unfortunately but my advice would be to cut away the section that is protruding out of the plaster with a Stanley knife, (if it's only a small area which I'm guessing it is) and get yourself a box of this bit.ly/393yo8a and mix a bit up like I showed in this video bit.ly/37aov70 and apply it to the damaged area with a decorators knife or better still a continental fillers knife, leaving it a bit proud of the surface and then gently sand once it's set with a 120 or 180 grit sand paper wrapped around a little block of wood, or a sanding block if you can get one. It will be an invisible repair which you can then repaint. When you repaint, water down the first coat you, so it sinks in properly, just checking the emulsion tin to make sure it says you can water it down.
@@CharlieDIYte that’s great. Thanks for your help! It is a rather large area (ceiling and adjacent wall) but I will try this approach on a small part first. And if works will do the rest. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Charlie. I've got a similar situation to this, though I was going to remove the old plasterboard and replace it, rather than going over the top. Is there much benefit in going on top of the old plasterboard?
The benefits are a lot less mess,when you pull the ceiling down all the dust and mess from above the ceiling as well as plasterboard.
You have to weigh up the pros and the cons, Dan. As Gerard says, there's a huge amount of mess if you take the ceiling down, as well as having to remove each and ever nail from the joists. In my case you have the added complexity of the sloping ceiling which would also need to be removed and that's interconnected with a rather bizarre arrangement where the victorians rendered a course of roof tiles at the top of the wall to cover a base plate that the roof joists sat on. With old properties like mine, you can quite quickly be faced with a complete rebuild so I although I'm a perfectionist and would normally want to remove the plasterboard and start again, I had to take the pragmatic line here - as we're living in the house and I didn't want to introduce all that dust and soot in to the living environment. If the ceiling is reasonably flat free of damp etc, plasterboarding over the existing is a sensible option.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie, appreciate the response. I can definitely see the logic in this approach and think I'll do the same. My property is from the same era, so probably has similar issues. I'm slowly working my way through fixing the poor 90s conversion work and finding all kinds of issues. Great videos, please keep them coming.
I took down an old plaster and lath ceiling (a very messy job) before putting plasterboard up on the advice of a very experienced (45 years in the trade full-time- who has 3 year waiting list). He said the additional weight (doubling) on joists not designed to take that weight can over time cause bowing. Also, if there's a leak from a water pipe getting removing two layers can be nightmare. It was messy but I sleep easier...
Great video. Do you now use your ryobi drills or the erbower drills would make a great video
Hi Josh. I'm really tempted to do a video on that! It would be a bit of an unfair comparison in the sense that the Ryobi are all brushed whereas the Erbauer are brushless but I've been generally using the Erbauer although the fitter (a carpenter friend) who works for me once a week and uses my tools recently asked me to put my Ryobi combi back in the case as he finds it's less bulky and can get into tighter spaces and the plastic chuck is less likely to damage customers walls. There's a tiny lag on the brushless tools compared to the brushed when you pull the trigger but the Erbauer batteries seem to go on and on for ever, and the Erbauer combi is definitely more powerful than the Ryobi. Leave it with me. Maybe later in the summer I'll put something out there!
Charlie DIYte thanks for that
They skimmed over the paper woodchip in our place, just finding out about it now, bit by bit.
It happens unfortunately. I'm pretty sure I've had that, if not here but in my old place.
Charlie. Thank you very much for your video.
I am thinking of doing some DIY myself, so excuse a novice question. Why are you not ripping down the old plaster board to then put the new stuff directly on the joists
Without presuming to speak on Charlie's behalf there are a few advantages of screwing plasterboard to old plasterboard. Number one is a drastic reduction in mess ,dust and waste. When you pull down a ceiling there is tons of dust generated which will get everywhere regardless of how stringent your dust control measures. Plus you have to remove all the nails before placing the new sheet. Overboarding is less hassle.
I will speculate that one big reason is if there is an attic above, then you have to deal with all the insulation that might fall out along with whatever else is up there and its easier just to not have to deal with that mess!
That's right. The dust, soot and insulation would have been a lot to manage but to be honest I'm now regretting not pulling down the entire ceiling and leaving the apex beams on show because the beams in the attic are something else!
@@CharlieDIYte That's only if they look good to start with lol
Quick question, do you not need to add noggins in between the joists to anchor the long edge of the plasterboard?
D'you mean the short edge? The long edge runs along the joists? I'm trying to think what we did about the short edge but yes it would be better if you could screw these to a noggin.
where is the glue to assist holding the board? don't use clout nails as they tend to pop out or create a bump over time
They don't pop out or bubble when combined with screws as we've done here.
Surely it’s a lot quicker putting in a screw straight away rather than putting in the nails first?
With a screw you need a heavy driver and have to line up the screw bit with the screw. As opposed to just whacking a nail in with a hammer.
Sorry don’t agree, from experience it’s definitely quicker pumping in a couple of screws. If you have the correct drill bit (plasterboard bit) on there is no faffing around 🤷🏽♂️
Fair enough. I’m just a DIYer
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools.
☕Charlie DIYte Buy Me a Coffee Membership bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - access our incredible Discord DIY forum and help support my Channel.
👚Charlie DIYte Official Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - all new range of professionally designed merch.
Hellllpppp can anyone tell me if I can just glue the board on my ceiling? If so, do you think it can crack ? Ps : I never use plasterboard in my life, but I'm woman in a mission to take out those artex ceiling from my house .
No you can't just glue it - the glue would only be as strong as the bond of artex to the ceiling, and the plasterboard would be too heavy. It must be screwed to the joists if you're fixing to the ceiling.
Great video Charlie, is there anyway I could contact Gerard for a similar job? also will you be doing any videos on skimming the walls of a room that's marked after wallpaper removal?
Hi Neil. Are you in the West Midlands? I'm sure Gerard would be keen if it's local. If so, drop me an email on charliediyte@gmail.com and I'll forward you his details. How badly marked is the wall? If not too bad and you'd rather not skim, you could always use Easi-Fill to fill the scuffs.
like the music
Thanks!
Sounds Brummie to me mate...lol....good job !
Hi Charlie. Are you any relation to Mike Wardle?
I didn't know Chef Ramsay can do house renovation..
Always makes me chuckle when people mention the Ramsay likeness!
Would it not have been better to rip the old plaster boards down and replace them.
Possibly Gareth but the dust, mess and loft insulation that would have rained down would have been horrendous, particularly given we were living there during the work.
2 people boarding a ceiling you would just put a screw in while the other holds it up,,65mm is too much I think for a overboard on plasterboard,,maybe for lath and plaster
Ceiling very uneven,tried 50mm screws no good in places so 65mmscrews were best.
@@gerardjames7539 100% know where you are coming from 👍
Hi Charlie, You showed what I used to call a "surf plain" this was probably a manufactures name more than an item name. I haven't had one for some time now so I went direct to "today's toolkit" to order one only to find that you have not listed it. Come on if you are going to have a toolkit list at least list all the tools in that video.
That's a bit harsh but you're right to point out the omission. Here's the Draper version listed in the insulated plasterboard video www.toolstation.com/draper-multi-rasp-planer/p25009 I'll update the Description for this video when I'm back later.
I know it as a Surform Plane (Surform for short), but maybe that's Stanley's name for it.
It's this one. Details now updated in the Description bit.ly/2T3lKvV
Hi John, I've now updated the Description with the actual tool I used - the Stanley Surform Rasp Planer bit.ly/2T3lKvV Thanks for the heads up.
Disrespectful comment from a person that hasn't posted a single video. Show some manners.
Why not rip down the old plasterboard first ?
Far too messy. 100 years of dust and all the loft insulation would come down and we're living in the house.
Ladies and gents.... please dont EVER put your fingers up into a hole in the ceiling before you've checked there arent any old electrical cables there first. I've seen too many half arsed trades people shock themselves accross the room doing exactly that
You only need to score it once 🙉
Fair point - and as I showed in the final example, but I find you get a cleaner break if you score it a few times.
Not if its a pink board (fireboard) your better of with a saw
I'm surprised you've put new board onto old, moisture? Surely you take the old ceiling down to put new board on.
People have been putting new board onto old for years. If the house is lived in, you're opening a can of worms if you drop a ceiling with all the dust, spores, and soot flying around. Much simpler to simply over board. In this case I was using foil lined plasterboard which basically prevents any vapour or moisture from rising up into the roof timbers and condensing. Condensation shouldn't be an issue because of the loft insulation, but it's better to take a belt and braces approach to this.
I had to take down an old lath and plaster ceiling in a converted steading in Aberdeen. That was when I discovered they used to use ash and clinker from the fireplace as insulation. I looked like a coal mineral the time I finished. No choice on that occasion, but best avoided if possible
Sick job, fucking nails 🤯🤯🤯🤯 not in level nothing no problem Plastering wil make Defo
💯👍👍
Thanks 👍
Hi No Plasterboard Glue. If it was my house I would glue it all.
FishingCanterbury don’t use adhesive in the UK mate
gee, why not just take the old crap ceiling down???
Too much mess. We live in the house. What I should have done though is rip the ceiling out entirely to reveal the old beams. 😉
ew this guy is ceiling gang
Where I live they used a mixture of clout nails and dry wall screws and I can confirm they pop out from the plaster board and plaster over time when the building warms up and cools down I wouldn’t use clout nails or follow the advice on this video bloke doesn’t know what his talking about...
If you nail on the edge and screw on the bound edge then scrim hardly a problem,even with screws You have the heads pop.especially on old places have more structural movement,I only put about six nails in each board then the rest of board is screwed six inches apart