JL Audio FATHOM “Power On” cap amplifier repair - step by step guide for repair at home.
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Step by step repair video with more useful info & links below: My JL Audio Fathom Sub was not powering on… It was dead with no lights coming on, but I had an idea of why.
After thinking and researching it a bit, I concluded the issue is the “power on” portion of the amplifier board circuitry. As I researched further, I found that this is indeed what the issue is and others have experienced this as well. When it comes to most home theater subwoofers, many people complain that the caps go out on subwoofer amplifiers, and yes this is common for the caps to dry out with age, but this particular problem has NOTHING to do with the large power amplifier caps… This is a problem with the simple power on capacitor on the amp. If your JL Audio Fathom is dead and not coming on, this is likely the problem.
This is a step by step video guide of the repair on my JL Audio FATHOM F113 subwoofer. This also pertains to the other Fathom models, like F110, F112. I also assume the F212 and JL Audio GOTHAM sub models might run into this as well.
This repair is basically for the Version 1 subs. Since they are older, they will likely see this issue before any Version 2 models.
I do know the V2 model subwoofers are built with “better caps” installed from JL Audio. I’m not sure if the capacitors in the V2’s are strictly better large “power amplifier” caps or if they also used better caps throughout the entire board including the “power on” cap…? I suspect the size of the cap would help identify the change, if the V2’s have a larger sized cap like the one I used vs the tiny original cap I removed. Another thing I noticed about the V2 models is since they proceed more power, I believe JL upgraded the magnet on the subwoofer and it is slightly larger than the V1 models.
Most of the information gathered to complete the repair for this video was from the AudioAficionado.org forum. I am not a member of the forum but was able to obtain enough information from the group to make the repair. I’m SUPER EXTREMELY Thankful for “jdandy” for making the post in the first place which I stumbled across in a google search to fix the sub.
About the actual woofers themselves… from what I can tell… after spending many many hours being intimate with these woofers (working on about 6 of them). The Version 1 Fathom woofers and the W7 model car woofers are the exact same woofers (except for the version 2 Fathom models that have a slightly larger magnet like mentioned above). I did come across something indicating the foam surround was a little thinner on the Fathoms compared to the car W7 models, but I did not find that to be true and no other researched backed that up. So if you need a new woofer for some reason, you can buy a used car model W7 and carefully swap out the little “JL” button on the front dust cap and you will be fine.
TIPS FOR YOUR FATHOM SUB:
1. To give your Fathom a long life, it might be best to simply leave the sub plugged in permanently to the wall and keep the front power switch in “auto” mode.
2. If your Fathom is not currently turning on, you might still get some life out of it before having to replace the capacitor. From my experience, you can unplug the sub fully for about 48 hours. This will typically let the caps drain giving them another chance to charge up when the power chord is plugged in. After 2 days, plug in the power chord and see if the amp powers on. (Don’t forget to listen for the “click” after about 3 or 4 seconds of initial plug in of the man power chord.) If it does not power on, go ahead and turn the switch to “on” or “auto” and leave it there.
3. Your foam surround will eventually rot, especially in the Version 1 Fathoms. Purchase the new foam surrounds from SIMPLY SPEAKERS. (can also find them on Ebay). www.simplyspea...
ADDITIONAL FATHOM VIDEOS I MADE:
1. • JL Audio FATHOM / GOTH...
2. • JL Audio FATHOM - WHAT...
HERE IS THE REPLACEMENT CAP I USED:
C515 - Replace with Nichicon 100uf, 35V, 20%, PTH, 2.5mm pitch x 6.3mm D, radial, aluminum electrolytic, 22,000 hours, 105C capacitor
Link: www.digikey.co...
I hope this video and information helps someone else out there. I am passionate about JL Audio Fathom & W7 subwoofers. I took the time to rip into these super expensive Fathoms to make it easier for you. I also have JL Audio W7 subs in our cars. A 13W7-D1.5 and a 10W7AE (AE - Anniversary Edition). They are amazing subwoofers and with a little knowledge on how to repair them, they will last you many many years! Best of luck to you! :)
Want to extend a BIG thanks for this video. I purchased a non-working f-112 with the same problem. I came across your video as I was researching before the purchase. Decided it was worth taking a chance. Finished it yesterday evening and as soon as plugging it in, "viola" , turned on and is working perfectly. Cost $26 for 3 caps( + shipping ) and the thermal paste. Saved me hundreds of $$$!!! Appreciate your time and the knowledge you were willing to share!!
You're soooo welcome! Thank you so much for the kind words and letting everyone know the repair worked out. I have had others message me about the video helping them as well and it seems this is helping everyone out so I'm very happy people are seeing the video.
I have the same problem. I just ordered the cap, thermal paste and everything else I need to repair it by myself. I’m from Germany and we have almost no support here from jl audio. I found only one company that would do this repair. Thank you so much for the video and the advice. Greetings from Germany ✌🏼
Good to know this video will help! I;m sorry yours is having problems and I hope this will help you. Take your time and go slow. It's not very difficult, just takes a little while to pull everything apart and put it all back together. Please let us know if it works for you and you have success! :)
@@thedanielsteamaustin oh my gosh 🥰 I never ever repaired any electrical device. And this repair was important to me. I just had the cap today in the mail. Did the switch, and my fathom f113 hast power again 🥰🫡 thank you sooooooo unbelievable much for this amazing video
@@thedanielsteamaustin and maybe my fathom was Apparat for to years and I los the screws for the backplate 🫣😞😪 what kind of screws are they? If you maybe could help me find the correct ones would be great 😊
@@hackebeilhank9015 So happy this was helpful!!! Enjoy that amazing sub!!! :)
@@hackebeilhank9015 For the plate amplifier screws, they are just typical wood screws. See the video timeline at 3:54 where I hold up one of the screws. The screws screw into the wood portion of the speaker enclosure, so a basic wood screw around that same size should do the job. I recommend buying a few different sized wood screws and try them out. Don't tighten them too tight, just so you can test them. Once you determine the best fitting screw, buy some more to complete the project. I do not know the size of the wood screw threads but they seemed like pretty common wood screws to me. They look to be about 1" long in length, so try various wood screws around that same length. Hope that helps and sorry I don't now the exact same size to share.
My Fathom f113 v1 died last night whilst playing a movie for the kids at lowish volume (50dB). I knew something was wrong when it made a couple of thud noises about 5 seconds apart (probably about 60dB or so). I went over and the power light was out, oddly, when I switched it to the off position, the power light came on, but then when I switched to the auto position, the power light went off, then when I switched it to the on position, the light briefly flashed on and then went out, then when I switched it to the left to off, the light came back on again. At this point I switched it off at the wall (I'm in the UK with those sockets that have power switches). After about 30 seconds, I switched it back on at the wall, and in the off position the power light was now off, but when switching it to auto, it very briefly flashed on and then went out, and the same again when I switched it to on.
When I apply mains power, I hear it click, so that's the good news. I'm hoping that it's the capacitor, but the thing that has me worried, is that, from what I've read so far, the power lights very quickly flashing on when moving to the auto and on switch positions isn't something that people seem to mention as a symptom, unless it's an ommited detail that others have seen? The other thing is, my f113 underwent a full refurbishment about 8 months ago and I was told that "all capacitors have been replaced with much higher quality parts than were originally fitted". Again, I really hope it is the power-on capacitor, but given the caps were replaced not all that long ago, I'm not convinced. Before I pull it apart, following this excellent tutorial, I thought I'd ask, is the power light flickering on between switch positions normal with this capacitor issue?
Sorry to hear. I have not experienced or read anything about this so it might be a separate issue. I wonder if the switch itself if having problems? I would double check with the repair job to confirm they did indeed replace the power on cap. Sometimes the main focus on subwoofer caps are the larger main power amplifier caps, so it is possible the power on cap was ignores since that is not typically the main focus for subwoofer caps. Please let us know what you find to others can also be informed of this issue. Best of luck to ya!
Since uploading this video about 2 years ago, it has helped about 17 people according to the messages and private messages I have received. My subs are still running great as well. Thanks everyone for all the kind comments and collaboration on repairs. I'm so happy for everyone that got their FATHOMs back up and running to enjoy!!! Happy Listening everyone!!!
I just did exactly what you said and I am back up and running
Thank you. Very much
That's awesome!!! You're welcome. Enjoy that bass!!!
Thank you so much for this video and the work you put into everything. My Fathom F112 wouldn't power up yesterday after a brief power blip. I searched for schematics and a service manual but found none. Then I found your video and thought I'd see if mine would work after replacing the 100µf 35v capacitor. Muscled the beast out to the bench in the garage, disassembled, and found that the solder they used wouldn't flow at 750° so I increased it to 850°. Should have went a little higher but it got the job done. Reassembled, applied power and it works. Calibrated it and I'm now a happy guy again.
Again, thanks so much.
You are soooo welcome Wade!!! So far about 10 people or so have been able to save their FATHOMs from the video instructions and great tips from others in the comments!!! This is what we do in the Audiophile community! :) Happy listening!
I have this same exact model & generation 1 sub with the exact same problem. (Won't power up, no lights, no relay click when plugged in) I'm gonna have to get these caps and try this fix myself too, since this thing is definitely out of warranty by now! But it was an awesome sub when it worked, AND it was extremely expensive new, so I think it's definitely worth fixing, IMO... Thanks for posting such a detailed video about this, and I'm really glad I actually found it too!... Exactly what I was searching for!
My main problem however, is getting that damn amp plate off from the back panel, as it will NOT budge, not even a little bit, not even when trying the screw method that you showed in this video, it's really buggin' me! (Maybe I'm using the wrong size screw to try and get it out?! I saw another commenter suggest using one of the screws that hold the front bezel on, so I'll have to try that next.) So far, I've even tried a flat screwdriver wedged in between it and the wood around it, and channel lock and vice grip pliers on the fins of the heat sinks to give me more leverage to try and pull on it, but absolutely nothing is working... I just don't want to mar up the nice piano gloss black finish if I can help it... OR end up breaking the wood along the outer edge! This very first part of the repair is the hardest part, because I KNOW I can fix it IF ONLY I can ever get the damn thing OPEN first! Lol!
BTW, is that ONE tiny capacitor, (C515, 100uF, 35V), the ONLY component on the amp board that you had to replace in order to get yours working again, or is there also other parts that had to be changed out too? (It just seems too simple; for only that one small cap to totally prevent this thing from even turning on!)
I would hold off on using a flat head screwdriver to pry. Because the plate is pretty deep in there, I think it will create more prying pressure on the sides, not actually prying the amp plate up and out. I would try more than 1 machine screw. It might be wise to start with the bottom screw holes to see if it's easier on the bottom side, if the top area is difficult. I'm sure it's just stuck in there really good and you will get it out in time. Not sure if you are just using 1 screw like I was (going back and forth to the top 2 holes), but try multiple screws at the same time in the top and work each one little by little. The goal is to actually alloy the amp plate to "thread" on the screw threads and once it goes in far enough, the very end of the screw will begin to make contact with the inside wood section and it should begin pushing the metal plate amp away. Maybe do 1/2 turn on 5 machine screws in the top and keep turning each one 1/2 turn till it presses out. It was hard to get mine out as well and didn't look like it was moving much but I kept using the 1 screw going back and forth to the top left & right screw holes and it finally began pushing away!! :)
Yes it was the one single capacitor that I replaced. No other parts were replaced.
Good luck and let us know what happens!!!
Hey. Finally had the time to do this. It worked perfectly! Took about 2 hours. Half of it was trying to clean the thermal grease and gasket off my fingers!! Thank you so much!!
EXCELLENT!!!! Glad to hear you are up and running my friend! :) Enjoy that amazing subwoofer! :) Funny about the thermal grease lol. Cheers!
replaced the cap today and it powered right up, to think I was going to send it in and pay $450 plus shipping. it took about 45 minutes start to finish...thanks for the video!!
Oh man I'm so HAPPY for you!! These subs are insane so I'm super thankful the video helped you get yours back in action. Feel free to share any tips you might have discovered on your repair to help the next person out! Happy listening my friend!!!
I'm in the process of doing this repair on two of my f113's. I still am waiting for the capacitors to come, but I did manage to disassemble the whole thing and think I found a shortcut. I did not remove the whole amplifier from the back plate. I just removed the aluminum plate from the back of the circuit board by removing the 6 screws connected to the spacers, two on the side attaching it to the side bracket, and the three on the bottom back side attaching it to the other heatsink. I had to remove the one bolt that holds the transformer onto the back plate to have enough space to get to the third screw, but other than that I think this will be much easier to do the repair as I don't have to disassemble any of the parts that require re-applying thermal paste or RTV. Will report back with the final results once I get the new capacitors in. Will probably replace that 33uF as well while I'm at it.
That's great news Paul! I'm super glad you discovered a shortcut. If I have to repair my 2nd F113, I'll review your message to see if that also works for me to save some time. It's especially nice not having to buy extra RTV, thermal paste as well! Thanks for helping innovate the repair!!
@@getfrog I have mixed luck. I got both f113's to power back up after completing the repair and one of the two is working perfectly. The other one powers up now, but it has a terrible hum and crackling sound and over time the cone really starts to move as the noise / crackling increases - this is all with the XLR completely disconnected. I'm guessing there's some other capacitor or other component that needs replacement, but no idea which one it might be. Not sure if you have any suggestions on what could be causing the humming. Either way, thanks for the video because it got me this far and one of the subs is back online.
@@pgiralt sorry to hear... Typically the hum is related to the transformer and possibly related capacitors from my past research. Ville hakkarainen commented that he also had a hum so might want to connect with him about any solutions. I have had a ton of subs over the years and many of them commonly have power amp caps go out (the big amp caps) and that's when they typically hum, and make machine gun sounds and all sorts of other crazy sounds dues to bad caps. You might want to check your work and make sure all screws are tight and connections are good. but typically its the caps and or transformer causing a ground hum sound.... but yours sound more like the big caps or one of the related larger amp caps might need replacing. I wish you the best of luck and please share if you find a solution.
Search for Ville hakkarainen's post. here is a copy/paste of the initial post but there are many replies to it.
"Got mine Fathom working as well. However there is quiet 'humming' in background, when tested shortly ( joint wasn't very good, need to buy better soldering iron tomorrow). Also I replaced capacitor with 100uF 63v 105c electrolytic capacitor. I couldn't found information is this Nichicon capacitor 'low-esr' ?"
I finally got the chance to do this repair and followed the video tutorial almost verbatim and the sub works great again. Here are a few things I found out when doing this repair.
1. I was able to get the amplifier plate without using the machine screw to push the plate off the enclosure: Unscrew all the wood screws; line the top rear corner with a towel folded a few times and put a small wood block to act as a fulcrum then use a vise grip on a cooling fin protected by a doubled up towel and gently pry open. Make sure that you remove ALL the screws since the wood where they attach to is fragile beyond belief (guess how I know; the solution is epoxy). I did not need to disconnect the wires from the subwoofer since my wires were long enough.
2. The most difficult part of this repair is removing and replacing the capacitor. I used MG Chemicals #1 423 desoldering braid to remove the bulk of the old solder; heat one hole with the soldering iron and rock the old capacitor so one side pops up a little, do the other side and repeat until the old capacitor is out.
3. The holes for the capacitors are so small that I could not get them to completely open up and were always blocked by solder so I could not insert the new capacitor leads. I had to resort to sharpening the tip of a toothpick and applying heat to the hole then quickly inserting the toothpick to prevent the solder from blocking the hole again upon removal of the soldering iron. Probably surface tension at work.
4. Be careful in soldering the new capacitor since there is very little distance between the positive and negative holes. I used a headmount magnifier to make sure that they were not shorted and had to use the desoldering braid multiple times to take out the excess solder which was shorting the capacitor on the trace. I cleaned up the holes with denatured alcohol and traced the space with a toothpick to make sure there was no shorting. Note: I am old and have poor eyesight so take your time and another person helping would make life a lot easier.
@getfrog, Thank you very much for this comprehensive video. I cannot believe how wonderful things are again !!!
Awesome and great feedback!!! Glad you are up and running again and I’m sure your tips will also help others. Thank you so much for contributing to the community by sharing your experience Evan!!! 🙌🔊
About 4 people were able to do this repair and get their Fathoms up and running so far, so I'm really happy this video helped others out. Mine is still working like normal 6 months later after I made this video. I did un-plug it a few times for a trip and bad lightening we had in the area, so glad mine is still working like normal although I was scared to unplug them lol. Thanks everyone for all the great feedback and messages!
I have some old F112s, for some reason I was looking at sub vids and watched a different vid of yours a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, one of my subs won’t turn on after unplugging for a couple of days while upgrading my home theatre. First UA-cam search, saw your vid, loved it. Thanks so much, I hope it’s the same problem for me.
Sorry to hear about the power on issue. Let us know what happens. I found that you might get another chance or two by plugging it in after sitting for a few days after the 1st attempt, but if it just isn't coming back on, it will likely need the repair. Another gentleman had the same issue and was able to get his working again following the steps in the video, so I'm sure others can benefit too. Best of luck to you and let e know if I can help! :)
STILL WORKING FINE 2 YEARS LATER! -----Wanted to update, I passed the 2 year mark since uploading this video on Dec 9, 2021. Sub is performing as it should and having zero problems. I listen to my two F113's almost daily with music and movies. I leave them both in the "AUTO" position at all times. I do unplug them both from the wall when we get an occasional thunderstorm with lightening, but it's rare... HAPPY LISTENING FOLKS AND ENJOY YOUR AWESOME JL AUDIO FATHOM SUBS!
Just an update. Been about a month since replacing the cap and still working flawlessly. Been used pretty much daily and powered on via "auto" mode many times a day. Still very happy!! :)
Update - Still running strong with no issues. Today's date is April 18 2022. I did unplug the subs for 1 week for an out of country trip (to protect them from any lightening strikes while gone)... was scared to do so, but they worked instantly when plugged back in after returning home this week. :)
I was just wondering how many years the surrounds will last ?????... I have 2 JL w7$ 13.5 inch in my Nitro and the foam looks brand new still and it's been over 7 years outside in cold -37 or hot +37 weather. I would guess the foam surrounds would last years longer being in a temperature controlled environment but how many years more Lol ???..🎬
@@rickguenther1013 your environment will always play the key factor. You should get a good 15+ years on indoor subs. Car & Marine applications will be shorter I’m sure but sounds like you are in good hands.
Hello there I'm about to purchase a f110 that the person claims it won't power on I really want it since I've loved these subwoofers for a long time now.my question is how likely is it that it might have the same issue as yours.
@@6498ricardo it’s very likely it’s the same problem, but unfortunately there is no way to guarantee this. Best of luck to you. Remember, if you do not hear the amp make a “click” sound after plugging it in, it’s likely due to the capacitor issue.
I was able to use a soft mallet and nylon automotive trim pullers to shake loose the plate. ANYWAY MUCH APPRECIATE THE TUTORIALS!
Thanks for the heads up and glad this was helpful!! :)
This was awesome. I don't even own any of this stuff but did have a 12W7 in my car years back.. Just wondered what the home stereo was like with JL and found some of your videos. It's great to see an easy fix and the relief when you finally got it going. I bet those things sound outrageous
Thanks! Yes a relief indeed and they sound amazing! :)
Thanks for this write up. I’ve got the v2 and maybe at some point they will also need the caps replaced. So this vid will be helpful.
You're welcome! I believe they used better caps in the V2's so you are likely ok. :)
Thank you for posting this video. You gave me the confidence to take on this project. Just ordered the part and will report back on my success!
You’re very welcome! Another gentleman just repaired his with the help from the video. He was successful. I wish you success as well and feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
One tip I learned after my repair is you can disconnect the wires from the amp by feeling through the white cotton wrap. About mid way, there are quick disconnects to allow more flexibility with the amp section as you can remove it from the heavy box using the disconnect connectors!!! Hope that helps! 👍👍🔊🔊🔊
Thank you for this video.
It helped me to repair my JL Audio Fathom F113.
You're welcome!! I'm so happy you were able to get your F113 working again!!
Great video only thing I would add is that the speaker wire doesn't need to be disconnected there is a quick disconnect toward the amp under the white fuzz..I only knew cuz a tech from JL told me so.
YES!!! Thanks you! I also was told that and edited the video a whole back with a text overlay on that portion of the video. I hope it's popping up for people to see. It showed up on my end watching it a few times.
Can also confirm this works. Thanks @chevyLsx and @getfrog. I did see the text overlay in the video.
@@tonyvera7393 thank you for confirming!!!! Appreciate the support! :) Are you conducting the repair on your sub?
@@tonyvera7393 I did see your comment in my email but looks like it might have accidentally been deleted. I'll paste it below in case you still wanted it shared. Good info in your post so hopefully this helps in case it was accidentally deleted!
------- Thank you @getfrog for this tutorial. I just used this tutorial and comments here to help me repair my V1 F113 2014 vintage sub to work once again. I was dreading the thought of having to ship this sub out for repairs. I also wish to thank Paul Giralt for the instructions on how to keep the amplifier in place to avoid having thermal paste mess and need to use RTV on the large capacitors on reassembly. That access method saved me the trouble of complete amp board removal. Lastly, some items that helped me greatly with the repair and especially with the capacitor removal was a solder sucker gun and a good soldering iron. The cap removal was an absolute breeze with the solder suck gun. Its made by Hakko and is model # FR301-03/P. It took 10 seconds to remove the capacitor and left completely clear holes for the new on to be installed. The gun is pricey but so worth it. I also bought a soldering iron by Hakko model#FX888D-23BY. It seemed to help prevent a solder bridge from forming between the two close spaced openings on the PCB even with the amp in a vertical position. The good soldering iron seemed to help with solder flow and placement. I just used the included tip that came with the iron. The tip is shaped like a small flat edge screwdriver tip. I'm no soldering expert nor do I have any electronics repair experience FWIW. Thanks again!!
@@getfrog Conducted. Repaired it this weekend. My system is back to life. I was so sad when the sub stopped working.
Hey Paul, had this issue occur on my 2nd hand Fathom 212 after only 1 month of ownership, being in Australia, I thought a mega repair bill was the only way to get it fixed, but having found this video and the forum posts detailing it's a very simple cap or two to fix it, I found a local PCB specialist, supplied him just the PCB board and $50 later, it was all fixed!
Excellent news!!! Glad this was helpful!!!
Glad it worked out for you. Didn’t know if you saw my reply. But happy you were able to make a video. I thought about it but just couldn’t find time. 👍
Yes and thank you for replying in the other video! I asked a question but didn't see a response from you. No biggy, you probably didn't see my question. :) Thanks for chiming in though!!!
@@getfrog oh I did reply and wrote a long step by step explanation of what I did. And you know what, I didn’t hear from you so I wondered if you ever saw my reply. So now I’m wondering if something happened and you never got the reply 🤔
Anyhow, people will love that you did this
@@Laissez_Faire So weird, I do not see your response. I tried on Google Chrome as well but don't see a response. Sorry about that, maybe a glitch on my end. Thanks for the kind words though, and if possible, maybe you can copy / paste the reply here in this thread if you think it would help anyone out. Take care my friend and thank you! :)
Hey there, any suggestions on what to do if the machine screw bores out the wood instead of pushing out the amp? Tried it on 2 screw holes and I’m 0/2
@@chrishardinger3614 I actually did it differently. I used a bigger screw than the original. Screwed into the metal plate in one of the corner holes. Then I used a wrench and the handle of a hammer. I put the handle of the hammer on the cabinet frame next to the screw about 2 inches from it. Then I used the wrench to lever the plate out of the cabinet. Here’s an image that might help. wtamu.edu/~cbaird/sq/images/lever.png
Cool video. Mine is not turning on either. Likely same capacitors. Mine is older model but has had new driver installed by JL Audio. They claim not good idea to just replace surrounds. Something about issues with Spyder I don’t know if they just want more money but that’s what they told me when sent mine in. At time they offered to replace all caps etc for 450.00 but I declined as was working fine.
Also side note if your having to turn your Fathom up more than usual to get output the volume control could be the issue and have some crud in to since it is analog. With no signal going to sub but sub powered on Turn volume up all way and down all way about 10-20 times and it will clean it if it’s the issue. Made big diff on mine.
Great insight and thanks for the info and recommendations Fred! If you know how to refoam a speaker surround, it's not a difficult task and only cost me $50 for the foam and then the labor I put in. Of course I've refoamed about 100 speakers and NEVER heard or experienced anything with damage to the spider... I'm actually surprised they told you that, as it's is not a factor in my experience or opinion. Quite silly response from them actually.... ugghhh....
I would also make sure they are replacing the power on cap and not just the "power amp caps" which are the common ones people replace on subs. This cap is a different cap from the norm.
I asked him to replace all 6 caps. Not sure if anything else tends to fail as JL wouldn’t tell me lol. As far as the surround issue, yeah it sounded odd to me too, but he said they won’t do it and claims can have issues.
Good video of fixing the problem. I thought their subs comes with Three (3) years from the original date of purchase: Subwoofers and Electronics. ,JL Audio will (at its discretion), repair or replace the defective product with new or remanufactured product at no charge.
Thanks!! My subs are form 2009 I believe (the version 1 models which have this issue and aren't made anymore). Now they make the V2 models with better caps from what I have heard. With this in mind, mint are well past the 3 year mark but yes JL does have warranty they honor.
Understood. You did a great video to be honest. A lot of hardwork but it paid off. Nice B&W speakers
i'm thinking of buying a JL E110 or E112 subwoofer that is used...do I need to be concerned with it also having problems like this...did JL fix all the new ones coming out after a certain date and what date was that if you know?
I'm not sure if the E subs had cap issues so might want to do your research. I haven't come across anything showing they did... About a "fix", I'm not sure about that either. Please share if you find any information to help others with E sub concerns. Best of luck to you!!! :)
Hi, thanks for your video! I live in Italy and my F112 V2 have the same issue. I contact my local dealer to solve the problem and I wait for it... it's been passed 10 days but I don't know if JL Audio send me a new board to replace the defective. Do you think the CAP used in your V1 is the same for my V2? I prefer wait for the replacement parts because the sub is under warranty... in the other hand, I don't want to ship the sub to the service center. However I agree with you, is better to leave the sub in auto mode, soon I think it's better to connect the sub to the PS Audio PP.
Please, if you can let me know something about the CAP of V2 version, thanks.
Glad this video helped you out!! I honestly do not know if the V2 subs have the same cap as the old units or if they upgraded the cap. I assume they have a newer cap in the V2's but honestly, time will tell if they are a problem or not. I have not had any experience or data with the V2 models to compare. Best of luck to you!!!
Great video! How is the jl subs compared to svs subs?
JL Fathom subs are a level up from SVS. The 12" Fathom F113 is comparable to the SVS PB13- ULTRA. I compared them side by side. SVS are GREAT subs. I like them ALOT. But if you can afford to get into JL Fathom subs, you will not be disappointed. Hope this helps!! :)
Considering buying an E110 with a popping issue on turn on. According to the owner, pops on turn on and then after 10-15 minutes works perfectly. Sounds like a Capacitor issue. Thoughts? Price would be cheap at $600 cdn funds, about $450 USD and cosmetically it is mint.
HI, yes, I would say that is a capacitor issue, however I would not consider it to be related to the same cap issue in the video. It might be an easy fix at a repair shop or something that's not to bad to just live with if the popping. I will say it's best to leave these plugged in and on "auto on" mode and just let the sub come on and off -vs- powering town the sub totally after use. Best of luck to you and let us know what you find!!!
Help, please. I have bought an older Velodyne DD12 and it does not respond to any button I press on the remote control. The remote apparently works because the red led lights up and the infrared sensor blinks when checked with a phone camera. The subwoofer works when connected to a receiver but I can't change any equalization settings or else. What could be the problem and how can I solve it?
I wish I could help but I'm not familiar with that particular sub/issue. Best of luck to you!!!
Great video on the d.i.y. fix. I have read that there are certain upgrades JL does if you send them in for service. Any ideas what these "upgrades" are and if they are worth the hassle/money?
Here is the upgrades list LINK and pasting below. Hope it helps! jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/229499927-Gotham-and-Fathom-v2-Upgrades-What-s-New-
Gotham and Fathom v2 Upgrades - What's New?
Our Gotham® and Fathom® v2 powered home subwoofers are clear statements of our commitment to the pursuit of great audio. Below is a summary of all updates and improvements implemented in the Gotham® v2 and all Fathom® v2 subwoofer systems, in comparison to the original Gotham® and Fathom® models.
Driver Enhancements!
All v2 subwoofer drivers have modified suspensions for greater linearity and lower distortion.
More Power!
The v2 powered subwoofer amplifiers have been further optimized, with all-new layouts and upgraded components, resulting in increased power output and efficiency. The net result is a 20% increase in available power.
A.R.O. Goes Digital!
Our innovative A.R.O. (Automatic Room Optimization) system gets a complete overhaul, creating an even more powerful tool!
D.A.R.O. (Digital Automatic Room Optimization) now includes 18 bands of digital EQ correction making it capable of correcting more complex frequency errors.
Each band is independently and automatically adjusted during calibration
The system applies an automatic global level adjustment to maintain equal loudness, post-calibration.
Calibration stimulus is now band-limited pink noise with measurement averaging - this means more in-room noise immunity, making measurements more reliable and repeatable.
One button operation makes D.A.R.O. easier to use. Subwoofer output levels and mic gain are set automatically, requiring no user intervention. This results in more reliable calibration.
Calibration data is easily cleared with the press of two buttons.
Even More Improvements!
Further circuitry enhancements used in all v2 models result in improved performance and efficiency.
Analog input/output circuits, as well as the digital signal flow have been upgraded for improved small-signal linearity and significantly better noise performance.
Unbalanced input signal isolation circuitry has been modified, improving signal-to-noise performance.
The mechanical layout of the low-level circuits has been revamped - audio signals no longer pass though the front control panel, significantly simplifying internal wiring and improving audio performance.
All small-signal circuitry is housed within a separate, cast-aluminum enclosure, with signal and AC power circuits isolated from one another, for improved noise rejection.
For ease of service, the main AC power fuse is now externally accessible.
@@getfrog Thanks for the reply.
I do have the older Fathom F113 it suffers from the same defect you fixed in this video. I have read somewhere that JL not only replaces the culprit capacitor but replaces and upgrades are also done; do you know what repairs/upgrades are done if you send in this F113?
@@evandj2961 they have 2 options… to repair the defected part and they simply replace a few capacitors I believe for about $500 plus you pay for shipping.
Or the second option is to upgrade to the V2 (version 2) package which cost quite a bit more, I think it’s a few thousand to convert to the V2. They replace the amp with the more powerful amp and I believe they swap out the actual woofer. Call JL Audio to confirm this. A simple cap repair and total V2 upgrade are two totally separate options / expenses.
@@getfrog Thanks a bunch for the information. I will be doing your repair :)
@@getfrog those upgrades also cost 3K to update to V2 digital. I think he was asking what else they do for 450.00 to fix or upgrade the current analog amp. I doubt they do anything besides replace all 6 capacitors?
So same problem as yours older model. Looks like its been factory serviced a few times by the blue sharpie writing internally. My question is it the same fix for the older ones ?
Yes, these are the older models. The Version 1.
Thx for the video. I tried an M6x40mm bolt and it went in till the smooth part but the amp plate didn't come out. How long a bolt should I need? Cheers.
Not sure on the length to be honest but keep cranking on it and do the other side as well…, alternate to each side to work the amp plate out. I think my bolts were about 3-4 inches. Hope that helps!!!
Got mine Fathom working as well. However there is quiet 'humming' in background, when tested shortly ( joint wasn't very good, need to buy better soldering iron tomorrow). Also I replaced capacitor with 100uF 63v 105c electrolytic capacitor. I couldn't found information is this Nichicon capacitor 'low-esr' ?
The cap you used has a higher voltage than the one recommended, but I ’m not sure if the 35 volt differential would create any reason for a “hum”, so might be something for you to research. I honestly don’t think it’s causing the hum.
However, I will say that a few people have reported a slight hum from the transformer section if I recall and that would be another capacitor repair to eliminate that hum. You might dig around on the web to see about that transformer hum or ground hum to see what pops up. I do not think it’s related to the capacitor value you used for the power on repair.
Good luck with what you find out and PLEASE SHARE in this thread if you make progress with the hum, so we can all benefit. I’ll admit, one of my subs has a really slight hum and I might have to repair it in the future if it gets worse, but I can’t really hear it at this time unless I’m right up close. It’s my other sub that has not needed the power on cap repair, so I know it has nothing to do with that, on that sub making the hum.
Glad you got yours working though!!! 🙌👍🔊😊
@@getfrog In my understanding voltage limit shouldn't have any effect on this matter. There can be difference in current leakage rating - but couldn't find any information about the original capacitor, is it low-esr. Anyhow I have strong feeling the humming comes from poor jointing. I'm also glad it's working now. Sending / fixing here in Finland in insanely expensive 🤯
@@villehakkarainen300 glad this video was helpful in getting your Fathom working again, and it saved you the expensive repair fee from Finland! 🙂 Good luck.
Did proper soldering, then checked background noise in each step. I have strong believing that humming comes when grounding is not working properly. I left my case open in ~15degree tilt and there wssn't any humming on background. So, check that all grounding cables are properly attached, board is connected through standings to grounding plate. Also, I've saved like 2k euros because of these instructions👌 Thank you Sir!
Tested now ~1hours, works like a charm. I very strongly believe those hummings are related to grounding problems. Didn't mention that humming didn't go away with proper soldering (sorry).
Are the v2 versions of the Fathom more reliable?
I can't say for now if the V2's are more reliable... but so far they seem to be holding up. Time will tell. The V1's are tanks and put out some crazy bass... some of them just have the little cap that fails... I firmly believe the V2's are also capable of this simple fix if the problem shows up with them. And even though it might be an unfortunate inconvenience, it's not a deal breaker in my opinion for the quality of these subs. Of course this is my opinion from owning 3 FATHOM subs and about 6 JL Audio W7 car audio subs. :)
Off subject... do you still have the Viper? Been reading some of your old posts on The Alley....
I sold it a few years back. I'm happy to help with any questions though!
@@getfrog Where do you want me to ask? Here or the alley? , but it looks like its been a few years since you logged on there. Thanks
@@F8XX363 I’m mostly on Facebook. Message me on there if you can.
facebook.com/Paul.Daniels.Austin.REALTOR
Hello sir what's a good price for a pair of fathoms.113 v1s in here in the Us
About $2,500 each so $5,000 for a pair of F113 V1.
@@getfrog thx sir just picked up a pair in mint condition for 2500. How do you connect them to a receiver since they have no lfe
@@johnlira3316 use the RCA connector. Sub OUT from receiver -to- red RCA input on the subwoofer. If you have (2) subs, use a splitter to run a RCA to each sub... or use the larger balanced connector cable to daisy chain them together. If you are unfamiliar with a few of these terms, you can use Google to find a ton of info on this, but this will at least get you started. :) Have FUN!!!
@@getfrog thanks sir
@@getfrog is sub out from the receiver the same as using the lfe out from the receiver
Hey there, any suggestions on what to do if the machine screw bores out the wood instead of pushing out the amp? Tried it on 2 screw holes and I’m 0/2
Gosh, I have not heard of this. Maybe make sure the screws are as flat as possible on the edge and try multiple holes slowly. My subs are from about 2006 and I think about the first year they made them. Mine came out like normal and are older, so I hope you are able to get yours apart as well. Someone commented previously that they used another technique so I'll paste their response here as well:
@johnsonwu126
8 days ago
I was able to use a soft mallet and nylon automotive trim pullers to shake loose the plate. ANYWAY MUCH APPRECIATE THE TUTORIALS!
@@getfrog thanks, I really appreciate the response. If I have any luck with an alternate method I’ll let you know.
How much for the 12 Fathom
From GOOGLE, here is the price at JL Audio: Fathom® f112v2-GLOSS
12-inch (300 mm) Powered Subwoofer, Black Gloss Finish
$5,000.00
Excelente
I just unplugged for couple of days. I was playing my system then realized it was still unplugged. When I plugged it back in the outlet I got nothing.😔
When this first started happening to me, I got lucky by letting the sub sit for about 48 hours (which I assumed allowed the cap to fully drain and take a charge when plugged back in). I was able to get it to work twice when it died... but after that, it never came back on, until replacing the cap in the video.
The key is hearing the sub make a slight click (or pop) noise when you first plug the power chord into the back. If you hear that click sound, then the sub should come on, but if the relay never clicks, the amp will not come on because it is not receiving power. Best of luck to you. I hope this video helps and if you make any discoveries through your process, please let us all know so we can better the JL owners community. :)
Is worth to buy an f113 v1 or save for an v2
It depends on how confident you are with the possible cap repair. If you have a little soldering experience, you can do the repair yourself. (2) of my (3) Fathoms have had no issues and they are older model V1's. I don't know if they will last 10 more months or 10 more years. There is also a chance you might need to replace the foam on an older model as the foam surround will rot over time, depending on the environment it was kept in. If you have the time to tinker, a V1 might be a good candidate. If budget is not a problem and you don't want to mess around with unknown repairs, it might be wise to reach out to my #1 go to with Fathom questions at Origin Hifi. Christopher Ross is a Fathom dealer and can help. www.originhifi.com/ info@originhifi.com | - 737-787-4434
a long shot here . if anyone wants to reply to this please do. i have the older fathom also not powering on, however when plugged in it does click and the lights begin to illuminate and then it goes out and keeps repeating this over and over until unplugged obviously . any ideas ? after seeing this video i plan to get the caps but there may be another component i need to look at . i dont want to have it open more than i already have.
Hmmm… try quickly & rapidly moving the power on / auto / off switch back and forth a bunch of times… seems like it might be some kind of switch issue or something…
Also, try a different input audio cable… I would personally use my phone as a music source and use a “3.5mm to RCA” cable to test using my phone vs your current receiver.
Let me know if that changes anything.
@@getfrog man I’m so glad you saw my comment . Totally stoked about that . Thanks . So I actually tried everything you suggested awhile back when it took a crap on me . I was thinking the same thing . But it is the older series . I have not taken the board down to the point of removing the heat and the three legged transistor/ mossfet deals like you did in the video , and as you know I’m sure impossible to test anything else in there without going all the way in . I have an ESR meter . So I’m gonna do like you did anyway and test what I can with the ESR and see where she takes me . My symptoms have been and were just like yours and other folks I’ve read about before , I usually would open it up move some things around and about 75 % of the time I would in some way turn on . I think the othe Caps on there may as well be done too . I’ll let you know how she blows . Big thanks for you reply man . It Does mean a lot .
@@torymartinez2439 absolutely my friend! Anything to help a fellow Fathom owner out! :) My 12" F112 V1 is a 2006 model which is when JL Audio first started building Fathoms. So it doesn't get any older than that!!! Still rocks the house and haven't had to do a cap replacement on it, so maybe only some of their units need the cap replaced. Best of luck to ya and I hope you get it running again. Let us know what happens!! :)
Зачетные потроха!
Цена у него не кислая!..