I'm not the creator nor am I an expert on the topic. However I think that if your goal is to increase your capacity to climb longer or harder sessions you should mainly add additional exercise in relation to your current sessions. If your goal is to increase the frequency of climbing or training days it could be added at other times.
Can y’all do a video on how to train grabbing small holds and moving to small holds. Training power endurance and endurance is not a very difficult concept. The concept of moving from small holds to small holds is very difficult.
I usually love to climb on very small holds, the smaller, the better and it somehow comes naturally now. But when I go back in time, when I was starting and climbing more in the gym than on rocks I was choosing the routes and boulders with the smallest holds and also I was avoiding anything that I consider too big. So in general if there wasn't a specific route I was inventing one from the existing ones. Also I'm still doing hangboarding twice a week, plus Emil Abrahamson's drill for fingers. And very important in climbing on small holds - footwork... I actually suck at overhands with jugs, but I'm good at slabs with 3-4 mm crimps and almost imaginary footholds. All comes from choosing to climb the specific routes you want to get better at. Start from bigger and work yourself down gradually, no rush. And work on placing and weighting the feet.
Fingerstrenght+body positioning. Finger strength is stupid simple. Max hangs, min edge training, find out what works for your skin. New science suggests no hangs and concentric finger work may be valuable too. Body position is impossible to dissect in a single video below five hours
Is it important to do the aerobic excercises at the same time as climbing (before and after), or does it also work on rest days? For example, short 20min runs.
I'm not the creator nor am I an expert on the topic. However I think that if your goal is to increase your capacity to climb longer or harder sessions you should mainly add additional exercise in relation to your current sessions. If your goal is to increase the frequency of climbing or training days it could be added at other times.
For sure, as long as you can maintain quality and minimize injury risk.
Can y’all do a video on how to train grabbing small holds and moving to small holds. Training power endurance and endurance is not a very difficult concept. The concept of moving from small holds to small holds is very difficult.
I usually love to climb on very small holds, the smaller, the better and it somehow comes naturally now. But when I go back in time, when I was starting and climbing more in the gym than on rocks I was choosing the routes and boulders with the smallest holds and also I was avoiding anything that I consider too big. So in general if there wasn't a specific route I was inventing one from the existing ones. Also I'm still doing hangboarding twice a week, plus Emil Abrahamson's drill for fingers.
And very important in climbing on small holds - footwork... I actually suck at overhands with jugs, but I'm good at slabs with 3-4 mm crimps and almost imaginary footholds.
All comes from choosing to climb the specific routes you want to get better at. Start from bigger and work yourself down gradually, no rush. And work on placing and weighting the feet.
Fingerstrenght+body positioning. Finger strength is stupid simple. Max hangs, min edge training, find out what works for your skin. New science suggests no hangs and concentric finger work may be valuable too. Body position is impossible to dissect in a single video below five hours
Is it important to do the aerobic excercises at the same time as climbing (before and after), or does it also work on rest days? For example, short 20min runs.
Doing capacity work on days off of climbing is great, with the caveat that you want to be sure you're still recovering. Good suggestion.