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I'm not sure whether this is overstating things, but I think we might do well to regard these last few slowed reps as totally invalid null reps, not merely qualitative variants of the intended exercise. Sure, we may still be able to get our chin over the bar on a pull-up, but I'm suspicious that the patterns of neuromuscular activation involved diverge so radically that the slowed reps represent our body's distinct Plan B for achieving the gross objective "chin above bar." I hear you, "We already know this, you're just arguing semantics." Indeed, but it's my belief that a lot of these sorts of discussions in exercise science are beginning to stagnate as a result what has been colorfully rendered as "terminological inexactitude." To progress, we may need to shift to favoring more rigorous terminology such as is available from fields like physics, theoretical computer science, and neuroscience. Just recently, I found myself suffering through a disappointingly muddled discussion between two intelligent climbers who were betrayed by the fuzzy distinction that exists in our field between the putatatively distinct concepts of "strength" and "technique."

I thought you had more subscribers, I'm really surprised. You definitely are one of the OGs of climbing traing to me and I think your advice has always been on point. I hope you'll get more recognition! 🙂

35% VL is pretty damn high - you're grinding on at least a rep or two before you actually pass the cutoff, at which point you're well beyond 35% total drop-off. There's also quite a bit of variation between individuals and exercises which becomes apparent when you measure velocity profiles and determine minimum velocities. E.g. you'll find people who are generally slow but with little drop-off, but might still have a higher minimum velocity threshold than a more explosive athlete with faster drop-off. Just another thing to experiment with.

Great perspective. I've tried to quit my limit boulder sessions well before failure. And I def see better performance leaving a lot more in the tank than I used to when I thought I needed to max out.

Thank you for this. I'm curious: if you don't have a device that can measure this for you, is it better to err on the side of ending a set too soon or pushing it for too long? Would stopping early risk not getting any adaptation at all?

huh. cool

Instant like, of course. Great content as always. Underrated channel

This is how you maximize the ATP-CP system and don't go too far into the glycolytic/lactate system. Builds power while minimizing injury risk and avoids poor technique engrams. Basically training like a sprinter.

A visualization would have really helped. But thanks for the input.

2nd the comment about the soundtrack, fucking Amazeballz

Thanks for the video! I've previously been taught that route 4x4s are a "power endurance" exercise and that I should be doing it a couple of grades below my hardest flash, or the hardest grade that I can complete the session on. The opinion of many friends is that if I've got anything left at the end of a route 4x4 session, then I should have chosen a harder route. What you describe is quite different and, if I understood right, the only difference is the intensity. Do it at a lower grade so that you can remain relaxed throughout the session and not be completely spent at the end. I'm struggling with how the same 4x4 set at a lower intensity is still beneficial for my climbing. I thought that aerobic endurance wanted greater volume.

l like to lay my ganf onnmy stomach and feel the core stabilize.. only difference i noticed.. great excersice

I have a question: if I want to increase my endurance to climb long multi-pitch routes, would you recommend increasing the duration (I.e. the amount of time climbing) during the 4x4 endurance workout you recommended in your other video? Or should I increase the amount of intervals (I.e. 4x5, 4x6, etc.)? Thank you for your help!

More entertaining than most training content 😂…keep it up

This is golden. Thank you

Hello Steve and CS team. Greetings from Bulgaria. First of all - you are just awesome. The quality of information you are sharing is just huge. I have rather one general question. If you have to say on the go, what will be the arrangement of the general trainings in the block programming: strength, power and strength, endurance, power endurance? Which comes first, which comes last?

Such a good content! What about integrating this training once week in my protocol? Would I be stimulating the aerobic system enough to see benefit in the long term? Thanks much

"Honey, wake up. New climb strong video dropped."🎉

This video is excellent, thank you so much!

Does this apply to work capacity of a specific muscle group? Eg. Your forearms power out (cant climb at same intencity or fingerboard) in a session but you can still go to the training area and crank out sets of pull-ups, push ups and dips or run a few miles.

Strong climb. I really enjoyed the climbing scenes without music, breathing of the climber and so on. Maybe i am a purist, but in that vid I would have prefered more pure climbing/progress rather than music-changes. But thats only my opinion. Thanks for the video, I know it is a lot of work;) All the best, Dave

Great video, I really learned a lot! Thank you very much. All the best, Dave

So essentially strategy 3 is neuro focus, strategy 2 is hypertrophy focus, and strategy 1 is hybrid?

Can y’all do a video on how to train grabbing small holds and moving to small holds. Training power endurance and endurance is not a very difficult concept. The concept of moving from small holds to small holds is very difficult.

I'm not the creator nor am I an expert on the topic. However I think that if your goal is to increase your capacity to climb longer or harder sessions you should mainly add additional exercise in relation to your current sessions. If your goal is to increase the frequency of climbing or training days it could be added at other times.

Is it important to do the aerobic excercises at the same time as climbing (before and after), or does it also work on rest days? For example, short 20min runs.

Thanks for the video Steve! You said building this aerobic endurance can take several weeks so would you recommend doing endurance training consistently all year long or doing it by cycles? And if by cycles how long should an aerobic endurance cycle be? Thanks!

I know this belayer, guys dream of getting short roped by her 😍

Doing a critical force test by lifting the Tension Block from an anchor on the ground would not be relevant ?

He seems pretty strong for a full blooded ginger

If you can't train the glycolytic energysistem properly, why do pros like stefano ghisolfi and adam ondra train the pump via getting pumped? Wouldn't it be smarter for them to train the aerobic energysystem to improve endurance? Or have they already built the necessary anaerobic and aerobic threshold, where the only thing they can do to improve is to tighten the rope?

This was beautiful thank you

Siiiick budday glad it went down for ya!

Nice flick Ben and Nate!

You know it's good climbing advice when it's also just general good mental health advice

Where is this tunnel?

Great video Don't you think a good way to train specific endurance is to have a multi angled spray wall and just create circuits that replicate the energy system demands of one's target goals.So for a physical 80 ft route in the Red it might be sprinting between shakeouts then a crux by the chains.So you'd have a link up that would push your recovery and sprinting abilities on the same exercise.

Just recently discovered your channel and I'm struck by it's high quality - thanks a lot, I'm learning so much! Also thanks for not adding tons of distracting imagery, like that it's waaaaaay easier to focus on the dense and super helpful information.

Super useful, very good explanation, thanks. Love the buildings analogy.

Thank you Steve and company for this wise approach. I appreciate how regardless of the topic there's this emphasis on mindful grownth and sustainability.

Thanks for another great vid Steve! Just to clarify, are the three sesions you ouline different flavours of achivieving the same thing, so fatigue / pump level (or absence of!) Should be about the same for each? Ao can pick and choose which I do deoending on preference / facilities. Thanks again.

Super interesting! Thanks for the video :)) quick question: when programming something like this, say at 3mins and 90s rest say for 5 reps for a 22ish minute session, would you rather add time to the climbing, add another rep, or take a longer rest and do a second set of 5?

Hey Steve, I was wondering if monitoring heart rate would be useful while doing this? I mean runners basically don't do their sport without it. Would the same rules apply for climbing?

For route 4x4s, what length of route is best for this? I imagine you could increase the total number of pitches climbed if you only have shorter routes available (or decrease if you have access to longer routes).

Another question that interests me a lot and I have not been able to clarify it for a long time. How can you find out which energy system is lacking, the anaerobic one or the aerobic energy system?

Great vid! but theres something I still don't understand: When climbing my project after 5 minutes, I get super pumped. There, my blood flow is mega restricted and therefore I undestand there is very little blood getting in and out of it. I guess my forearm soon starts to run out of oxygen and so, what is the main methbolic system delivering energy? If the alactic energy system is out of phosphocreatine stock and blood can not get in my forearm, is it the glycolitic?

for the 20x boulders is it better to go for overhang with good holds or for more vertical wall with smaller to crimpy boulders? Just wondering if endurence differs in forearm and fingers fatique

Absolut wisdom, as always. Thanks !

I have been doing Olli Torr’s ‘CARCING’ routine for 4 months now. Racking up 2 hrs per week. I’ve seen massive improvements in my aerobic endurance. What is your point of view on this? Do I need to do any more or is this sufficient? Thanks!