Excellent video, simply the best way to change over to a hydraulic clutch. If I may point out, there is already a plate available so you don't have to make the triangle piece. It's called "1968-1972 Chevelle Steering Column Plate Set for Automatic Transmission." You can drill your holes into this plate without the need for the triangle piece. Also a seal is available is you need it; "1968-1972 Chevelle Steering Column Seal."
Geat explanation but still does not show the master cylinder installed. i am assuming goes in the engine compartment but wanted to see how closed to the engine will be.
The movement in the pedal will not be the same as the piston travel in the master cylinder because of the motion ratio in the pedal. I had to be a little creative with my pedal stop since I didn't have the ability to weld.
@@SS454LS6 I am measuring the amount of actuator rod travel when moving the pedal through it's full range. The ratio works out to be 1.5" of rod travel.........I think I am going to weld a connector nut to the pedal arm and use a bolt that will hit the firewall before full pedal travel.........
@@oletrux Strange, I would not think the rod could travel more than 1.12". It should be exactly the same as the piston, unless there is air in the system?
@@SS454LS6 I haven't installed the master cylinder yet....I have installed the heim with the extension rod poking through the firewall and measuring it's travel from when the pedal is against the upper stop until the pedal contacts the floorboard/firewall. With the full swing of the pedal the rod moves 1.5".
As a matter of fact I have the same issue. Not sure why its so stiff since it's using the same geometry as a mechanical linkage. I am still investigate and if I find a solution I will post it.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you use either of the two lower bolt holes on the pedal?(I am going through your installation videos so this might come up later lol)@@SS454LS6
I’m sorry but I’m ocd about this. It’s called a banjo fitting, not a swivel end. It is more common on motorcycles just an FYI but love the build series
@@YZFoFittie You'd have to get pedals and perhaps a different column for the car. If you really want to go OD manual, start your plan to execute it. I put mine off for a long time because I thought I couldn't do it myself. Seems I was able to.
@@SS454LS6 yeah fabrication is not an issue. I just didn't want to cut the tunnel. But I've been talked into a T-56 Magnum. We are going to try new poly body bushings and shims along with the Holley 1.25" forward motor mounts first.
If you remove your brake booster to mount your master cylinder, then there will be a lot more options to mounting the American Powertrain bracket. Check out Part 5 video to see some alignment issues I had before you copy the idea. Good luck!
Excellent video, simply the best way to change over to a hydraulic clutch. If I may point out, there is already a plate available so you don't have to make the triangle piece. It's called "1968-1972 Chevelle Steering Column Plate Set for Automatic Transmission." You can drill your holes into this plate without the need for the triangle piece. Also a seal is available is you need it; "1968-1972 Chevelle Steering Column Seal."
Until now I was losing my mind about the bolt situation. Thanks for the simple idea of of just getting a new bolt for clutch pedal
Thanks for making this video... very helpful
You have been extremely helpful . Thank You!!
Impressive fab job 👍
Geat explanation but still does not show the master cylinder installed. i am assuming goes in the engine compartment but wanted to see how closed to the engine will be.
Right under the brake booster. Barely visible when you look under the hood.
How did you handle the limited stroke?? I'm looking for ideas on a pedal stop. Mine travels 1.5", but the master is limited to 1.12".
The movement in the pedal will not be the same as the piston travel in the master cylinder because of the motion ratio in the pedal. I had to be a little creative with my pedal stop since I didn't have the ability to weld.
@@SS454LS6 I am measuring the amount of actuator rod travel when moving the pedal through it's full range. The ratio works out to be 1.5" of rod travel.........I think I am going to weld a connector nut to the pedal arm and use a bolt that will hit the firewall before full pedal travel.........
@@oletrux Strange, I would not think the rod could travel more than 1.12". It should be exactly the same as the piston, unless there is air in the system?
@@SS454LS6 I haven't installed the master cylinder yet....I have installed the heim with the extension rod poking through the firewall and measuring it's travel from when the pedal is against the upper stop until the pedal contacts the floorboard/firewall. With the full swing of the pedal the rod moves 1.5".
How come you didn't use a virgin automatic firewall plate with no holes and drill holes in to it?
I just used to what I had available.
What was the willwood clutch master cyl part #. Im doing this swap on a 64 impala and was looking for a master cyl
260-10372 for the 3/4" bore
Mounted rod in same location, same car. After bleeding pedal is rock hard, did you have any pedal issues?
As a matter of fact I have the same issue. Not sure why its so stiff since it's using the same geometry as a mechanical linkage. I am still investigate and if I find a solution I will post it.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you use either of the two lower bolt holes on the pedal?(I am going through your installation videos so this might come up later lol)@@SS454LS6
@@75zl1 There is really only one mount on the clutch pedal for it to attach to.
@@SS454LS6 you couldn't just go through the side of the clutch pedal? Similar to where you have the clutch stop
This is out of curiosity as I don't have the same bracket mine will be just into the side of the pedal
what rpm at 70 mph did you cruise at with the 4speed?
Somewhere around 3100 rpm, give or take.
I’m sorry but I’m ocd about this. It’s called a banjo fitting, not a swivel end. It is more common on motorcycles just an FYI but love the build series
Loves me some mini wheats. Lol
I watched a later video of this series and he complained of very high pedal pressure required....
WTF? I was looking at these guys for a complete kit but if it needs fabbing, whats the point of a KIT?
A lot more customization that I was even thinking. If you mount the shifter in the more forward location, you can keep your stock console plate.
@@SS454LS6 my car is column shift automatic. =(
@@YZFoFittie You'd have to get pedals and perhaps a different column for the car. If you really want to go OD manual, start your plan to execute it. I put mine off for a long time because I thought I couldn't do it myself. Seems I was able to.
@@SS454LS6 yeah fabrication is not an issue. I just didn't want to cut the tunnel. But I've been talked into a T-56 Magnum. We are going to try new poly body bushings and shims along with the Holley 1.25" forward motor mounts first.
Please grout your tiles
Nice work. The kit really lacks as far as master mounting. I'm copying your idea. Thanks
If you remove your brake booster to mount your master cylinder, then there will be a lot more options to mounting the American Powertrain bracket. Check out Part 5 video to see some alignment issues I had before you copy the idea. Good luck!
Kit needs some work 😳
I HAVE A SOLUTION FOR MASTER CYLINDER ALIGNMENT WITH CLUTCH ROD . USE OLD ROD THAT WAS USED WITH Z BAR SEND EMAIL I WILL SEND PICTURES
Not impressed with American power train