Love your simple explanations for complex things. You have solved the problem I have had and it is much easier than I thought. Thank you for showing me the way. 😊
The main limiting factor for going smaller is how narrow the space for the tails can be cut. Details for how narrow it will go in the specifications, linked from the plans page on my website..
The precision and the cleverness of yours making all of this stuff and using it are just amazing. Congratulations! I'm looking forward to watching next videos :)
Excellent video. I am just learning to use my wood tools and it only took about 50 years to get the time. I commend you on your clarity of instruction on how to do the jigs and insight on how to create all the different jigs and aides. I will be back to see your next project. Thanks
This looks like a great method for getting strong joints in framing lumber. I can picture a variety of utility boxes, shelves, frames, etc. made rock-solid and sturdy - and FAST! - using these jigs.
Hi Matthias, Would you ever consider doing a video on locking miter joints? There seems to be quite a few videos about this and I would love to see your take on this subject. Keep up the great work!
I had thought of that, but the combination of angle adjustments and pins jig would really mess up the geometry. The tails could be cut with the box joint jig, but without matching pins, it would be pointless.
You could move the board side to side and make cuts to hog out the space between tails. But you would still need to clean it up wit ha chisel. The bandsaw is quicker and easier.
you should put a mirror in front of your table saw so you can keep an eye on the dove tail jig without having to hunch over the saw. Besides that that the dove tail jig looks so easy and functional to use. thanks for your videos
Mathias, my observations: 1. The pins, regardless the side that is cut, are single angle cuts. 2. If the markings for the pins were transferred to the back of the board, the board could be turned around to make the second cuts. 3. Lining up the board to the first cut on the back, the spacers would then position the board to each next cut the way it does for the front of the board without the need of the pin. 4. The only adjustment that would be made is about 1mm or less, to insure the pins are sized to the fit you want. 5. Once you have both the back and front pin positions, a mark could be placed on the jig, or positioning pins to allow for ease of setup and positioning.
Would you mind telling what digital caliper you use and if you think it's an adequate device for home shop use? I appreciate your videos and your matter-of-fact-delivery.
I understand the need for that kind of a jig if you are making for example a workbench, but for smaller projects, it really would be easier, quicker and most likely cheaper to just make or buy a jig that uses a router to make the dovetails.
Keep in mind that it is hard if not impossible to get router bits this big to do dovetails and this also gives someone an option for doing dovetails if they don't have a router table or dovetail jig jig. Those can be crazy expensive, others just over $100US. Not a huge amount of money, but still more than this jig would cost to build.
I was going to say I'm surprised you didn't make the second jig rock left to right for the pin cuts but then I realized you would then need to constantly be adjusting the blade height. But then I thought why not make the base of the jig have an adjustable incline to then keep the blade upright and just switch the stock over for the second set of cuts? Then even cooler and complicated but fun would be to figure out a ratio for the fences on the left and right side using gears or threaded rod. So when one cut is made the stock could be flipped around and the fence would always be in the right spot. Then when the fence is adjusted for the second pin the other fence would move as well to correspond with the spacing between pins. Man that would awesome!
the pint is that you only have to make the jig once and then and then the complex joint is fast and perfect. i just made a shelf w and cut tails and pins and i like the result but if i had this jig it would have saved time and i could made twenty of them production style. i hand cut the lines along the grain and crosscut to the base line w vibrating multi tool thingy.
That's true, but to make the second bit (the tail?), wouldn't it be possible to make a jig that "rock" 10° from side to side so that you could do it like you did the first bit (no idea what they are called), with the blade straight, and just rock the rock the jig from side to side? In other words, the first bit you rock 10° on the y axis, and the second bit you rock 10° on the x axis? I know you would have to raise the blade a bit, and maybe that would be more difficult/inaccurate?
AWESOME as usual. Very inspiring as well. I believe you can come up with another easier way to making those second cuts with the same jig without replacing the backboard. it seems time wasting!
Nice. Now combine that with your gear driven box joint jig and it would be really really cool. Still trying to figure out how to make real helical gears :)
Like I said, Matthias' jig is ideal for big projects, but for smaller projects it is much better to just buy the router jig. It also depends on how many dovetails you have to cut. If you have a lot of them to cut, then there is no point in building one of these jigs. And also, you don't need a router table for a dovetail jig.
For mass production, it is still better to work with router and dovetail jig. For hobby work is still making dovetails manually faster. But keep it up, maybe you can invent something greater in the future!!
Gary Yarrow Just because you have been doing it for years in not proof that your way is faster. We rode horses for 100's of years, that does not mean horses are better then cars. saw him cut a slot in less then 20 seconds, beat that. Do a whole sets of drawers for a kitchen see how repeatable with accuracy, first dry fit, perfect fit. There is no way you are going to cut 20, 30, 40 pins and slots faster then this jig. You use a push pull two man saw to cut a plank? You use a string with a knot for a tape measure? The use of jigs in woodworking has been around for centuries so get off your high pompous ass.
+Stu Bee I don't think I was clear. If you only a couple of large ones hand sawn is faster. If you are doing a kitchen. Different story (but I have done a chest with 7 drawers by hand)
Gary Yarrow Even doing one socket cut with the jig will beat you hands down. No different then a store bought jig. A true woodworker would make a jig for the fun of it. Hobbies rarely concern themselves with how long and how fast things take. Accuracy and repeatability is the desire and achieved with a jig as it has always been for the last 2000 years of woodworking. Plus you get the added amusement of woodworking a jig up with all the features you can think of and use up a bunch of scrape. Production houses are the only ones concerned with time and that is why they too also use jigs. You are a poser woodworker if you can't join these dots and just brag about something you think you can do faster. 'Think' as in you have never done it.
This is good but you are looking at the dovetail too practically. A lot of the appeal of dovetails is aesthetic. You said "I have room for four" but with four, the proportions are all wrong and the dovetails take up too much space. Yes, four makes the joint stronger, but it just looks weird.
Love your simple explanations for complex things. You have solved the problem I have had and it is much easier than I thought. Thank you for showing me the way. 😊
Well done Mathias and thank you for your contributions to the woodworking community.
Unbelievable.... These things would keep me out in my barn and away from my wife and kids for days... Time to get started.. Awesome Videos...
Mike C l'm seeing the birth of a new woodworker. Welcome to the club!
The main limiting factor for going smaller is how narrow the space for the tails can be cut. Details for how narrow it will go in the specifications, linked from the plans page on my website..
The precision and the cleverness of yours making all of this stuff and using it are just amazing. Congratulations! I'm looking forward to watching next videos :)
Excellent video. I am just learning to use my wood tools and it only took about 50 years to get the time. I commend you on your clarity of instruction on how to do the jigs and insight on how to create all the different jigs and aides. I will be back to see your next project. Thanks
This looks like a great method for getting strong joints in framing lumber. I can picture a variety of utility boxes, shelves, frames, etc. made rock-solid and sturdy - and FAST! - using these jigs.
Hi Matthias,
Would you ever consider doing a video on locking miter joints? There seems to be quite a few videos about this and I would love to see your take on this subject.
Keep up the great work!
I had thought of that, but the combination of angle adjustments and pins jig would really mess up the geometry. The tails could be cut with the box joint jig, but without matching pins, it would be pointless.
You could move the board side to side and make cuts to hog out the space between tails. But you would still need to clean it up wit ha chisel. The bandsaw is quicker and easier.
People like dovetail joints, they look nice.
And in some cases, glue can also fail (although in that case, you could just use nails or screws)
you should put a mirror in front of your table saw so you can keep an eye on the dove tail jig without having to hunch over the saw. Besides that that the dove tail jig looks so easy and functional to use. thanks for your videos
Mathias, my observations:
1. The pins, regardless the side that is cut, are single angle cuts.
2. If the markings for the pins were transferred to the back of the board, the board could be turned around to make the second cuts.
3. Lining up the board to the first cut on the back, the spacers would then position the board to each next cut the way it does for the front of the board without the need of the pin.
4. The only adjustment that would be made is about 1mm or less, to insure the pins are sized to the fit you want.
5. Once you have both the back and front pin positions, a mark could be placed on the jig, or positioning pins to allow for ease of setup and positioning.
Wow! This guy is a genius
This guy is the wood guru.
as usual- inspiring. But would this work on a much smaller scale, lets say - half the size?
You could also take a alternate-set saw blade and break every other tooth. It would be a shame to wreck a saw blade, but it would be much cheaper.
brilliant video.... ! i'm a huge fan of your work ...all the way from india !!
Would you mind telling what digital caliper you use and if you think it's an adequate device for home shop use?
I appreciate your videos and your matter-of-fact-delivery.
well thank you, watched with a great deal of admiration for your work , a pleasure to see your well thought out designs ..
I use whatever is cheap. But dial calipers are much more reliable.
I understand the need for that kind of a jig if you are making for example a workbench, but for smaller projects, it really would be easier, quicker and most likely cheaper to just make or buy a jig that uses a router to make the dovetails.
Keep in mind that it is hard if not impossible to get router bits this big to do dovetails and this also gives someone an option for doing dovetails if they don't have a router table or dovetail jig jig. Those can be crazy expensive, others just over $100US. Not a huge amount of money, but still more than this jig would cost to build.
I was going to say I'm surprised you didn't make the second jig rock left to right for the pin cuts but then I realized you would then need to constantly be adjusting the blade height. But then I thought why not make the base of the jig have an adjustable incline to then keep the blade upright and just switch the stock over for the second set of cuts? Then even cooler and complicated but fun would be to figure out a ratio for the fences on the left and right side using gears or threaded rod. So when one cut is made the stock could be flipped around and the fence would always be in the right spot. Then when the fence is adjusted for the second pin the other fence would move as well to correspond with the spacing between pins. Man that would awesome!
the pint is that you only have to make the jig once and then and then the complex joint is fast and perfect. i just made a shelf w and cut tails and pins and i like the result but if i had this jig it would have saved time and i could made twenty of them production style. i hand cut the lines along the grain and crosscut to the base line w vibrating multi tool thingy.
This is so nice. Thanks for sharing all these amazing videos.
Look out Leigh. I have to ask what table saw blade are you using, I have the same saw.
Good video. That all makes sense, especially with the clarification at the end where one
That's true, but to make the second bit (the tail?), wouldn't it be possible to make a jig that "rock" 10° from side to side so that you could do it like you did the first bit (no idea what they are called), with the blade straight, and just rock the rock the jig from side to side? In other words, the first bit you rock 10° on the y axis, and the second bit you rock 10° on the x axis? I know you would have to raise the blade a bit, and maybe that would be more difficult/inaccurate?
AWESOME as usual. Very inspiring as well.
I believe you can come up with another easier way to making those second cuts with the same jig without replacing the backboard. it seems time wasting!
Nice. Cant cut dovetails that large with a router. Good job.
Do you show how to make this jig somewhere? Thanks!
I just used the scale on my saw. It's accurate enough.
How wide stock can you use on this jig?
The link to what you made with the test jig is not working.
I could, if I ran it faster, but the accuracy would be crap!
Nice. Now combine that with your gear driven box joint jig and it would be really really cool. Still trying to figure out how to make real helical gears :)
wonderful jig
I'm impressed your a very bright young man!!!🍀👻👏
what a perfectionist!
where can I get plans for these dovetail jigs?
In every video you have a link in description. woodgears.ca/dovetail/jig.html
As usual, well done!
Genius
Like I said, Matthias' jig is ideal for big projects, but for smaller projects it is much better to just buy the router jig. It also depends on how many dovetails you have to cut. If you have a lot of them to cut, then there is no point in building one of these jigs. And also, you don't need a router table for a dovetail jig.
You should make a jig for inlay dovetails
Você é muito bom ! Parabéns
That would be awesome if you actually used the band saw that fast
Love the vdo, Thank you matthias
Amazing dude
Thankyou so much ( I`m Vietname )
Well done.
Astounding
brilliant.
Nice!
Awesome
you're rad!
For mass production, it is still better to work with router and dovetail jig. For hobby work is still making dovetails manually faster. But keep it up, maybe you can invent something greater in the future!!
+Heinrich Konrad Nagel Once you have the jigs built and repeatability is achieved you can make these joints in a hundredth of the time then manually.
imaginative! However, for this big of dovetails, a drill press, hand saw and a couple of chisels it would be done a lot faster.
+Gary Yarrow
bullshit.
Sorry you disagree, but this is the way I have been doing it for years when dealing with large dovetails, and its fast and repeatable.
Gary Yarrow Just because you have been doing it for years in not proof that your way is faster. We rode horses for 100's of years, that does not mean horses are better then cars. saw him cut a slot in less then 20 seconds, beat that. Do a whole sets of drawers for a kitchen see how repeatable with accuracy, first dry fit, perfect fit. There is no way you are going to cut 20, 30, 40 pins and slots faster then this jig. You use a push pull two man saw to cut a plank? You use a string with a knot for a tape measure? The use of jigs in woodworking has been around for centuries so get off your high pompous ass.
+Stu Bee I don't think I was clear. If you only a couple of large ones hand sawn is faster. If you are doing a kitchen. Different story (but I have done a chest with 7 drawers by hand)
Gary Yarrow Even doing one socket cut with the jig will beat you hands down. No different then a store bought jig. A true woodworker would make a jig for the fun of it. Hobbies rarely concern themselves with how long and how fast things take. Accuracy and repeatability is the desire and achieved with a jig as it has always been for the last 2000 years of woodworking. Plus you get the added amusement of woodworking a jig up with all the features you can think of and use up a bunch of scrape. Production houses are the only ones concerned with time and that is why they too also use jigs. You are a poser woodworker if you can't join these dots and just brag about something you think you can do faster. 'Think' as in you have never done it.
This is good but you are looking at the dovetail too practically. A lot of the appeal of dovetails is aesthetic. You said "I have room for four" but with four, the proportions are all wrong and the dovetails take up too much space. Yes, four makes the joint stronger, but it just looks weird.